A journey through the Dordogne and Limousin reveals a quieter, more beautiful France – where luxury hotels, timeless villages and river landscapes echo the West Country of old.

"I was thinking this one evening last week just after I had popped a humble cockle into my mouth. A small shellfish I’ve enjoyed all my life, but this cockle was different. It was a super-cockle. It was as if the most cockly cockle in the world had been produced especially for this moment of personal enjoyment. It tasted of the essence of ocean. Its velvety texture was salty, sweet and creamy all at the same time. It was so sublime, it brought a little tear to my eye."