"I was thinking this one evening last week just after I had popped a humble cockle into my mouth. A small shellfish I’ve enjoyed all my life, but this cockle was different. It was a super-cockle. It was as if the most cockly cockle in the world had been produced especially for this moment of personal enjoyment. It tasted of the essence of ocean. Its velvety texture was salty, sweet and creamy all at the same time. It was so sublime, it brought a little tear to my eye."

40 years of Michelin stars and still the same passion. As La Chapelle Saint Martin marks a landmark anniversary in 2026, Chef Gilles Dudognon reflects on four decades of culinary excellence, the art of "truth in cooking," and passing the torch to a new generation in the heart of Limoges.