The Joy of Outdoor Cooking: Why Barbecuing is the UK’s Favourite Summer Ritual
Barbecues in the UK: From Heatwaves to Grilled Feasts
The other day someone I know was talking about the weather and he said: “I’ll tell you how hot it is… We rolled out the barbecue for the first time this week and we’ve been grilling sausages and steaks and goodness knows what else.”
Lunch cooked in a Joetisserie over live flame
This simple statement reminded me that not every UK household likes the idea of cooking over a live flame. It took this chap and his family a UK record of four officially designated heatwaves before they were eventually persuaded to cook outdoors.
And I need reminding that a great many folk do not barbecue, because I am forever lighting up the charcoal and cannot imagine why anyone with as much as a tiny terrace, let alone a full blown garden or other open air space, would not. Which is probably why I keep returning to the subject of barbecuing. I make no apology, because I really do believe it is a superb way of preparing hot food as well as being a deeply satisfying thing to do.
BBQ cooked tomahawk steak
The Primitive Appeal of Cooking Over Fire
Indeed, for a long while I have been marinating the theory that there is a primitive man or woman lying just beneath the surface of us all. We humans are not quite as civilised as we like to think - just look at our penchant for killing one another in all those wars happening at present. That reflects the bad side of being primitive - the upside is that by getting in touch with our Stone Age innards we somehow get to appreciate basic things like food and cooking much more profoundly.
Here’s what well-known West Country based chef and food writer Gill Meller says about barbecuing… “There’s purity in cooking over fire that I love. Whenever I smell wood smoke in the air it captures my soul for a spell.”
He also writes: “Sometimes the simplest ways to cook are the most rewarding and mindful” and that cooking outside “is far more engaging” than using a conventional kitchen.
Why Barbecuing is More Engaging than Indoor Cooking
It really is far more engaging. Indeed, you probably need to focus a lot more because there’s an element of hit-and-miss with a live flame, which is maybe why so many cooks prefer to stay indoors (even a good many accomplished ones). I’m not saying such people lack focus, but I do believe the old adage that practice makes perfect. The more you do it, the better you get.
A live flame can be tricky (different fuel sources, different charcoals, varying wind speeds wafting the flames, there are endless reasons), which means you may have the occasional disappointment. That happens to me after more than 40 years - and when I say “regularly” I mean, like many other BBQ enthusiasts, I often head outdoors to cook regardless of the time of year or weather.
West Country Barbecue Inspiration: Sue Stoneman
However, I certainly do not class myself as anything of an expert - unlike my friend, Devon’s Sue Stoneman, who in my opinion is one of the best barbecue cooks in the region. Like me, Sue will be out there in all weathers and if you follow her entertaining and informative social media posts you will see she is also quite happy to vary the location. Quite often, for example, she takes a small Kamado-style BBQ down to her local beach at Exmouth…
Expert BBQ cook, Sue Stoneman
Which is why, for the purposes of writing this BBQ special during the fourth official UK heatwave, I asked Sue if she’d be kind enough to share some of her fireside knowledge (see her tips for modern barbecuing in the panel)…
Her basic mantra is as follows… “Anything you can cook indoors, you can cook outdoors. Be it in your oven, air fryer or grill - if you’ve a barbecue with a lid, anything is possible. Even a pavlova!”
Cooking Mussels, Flatbreads and More Over Charcoal
This week I saw she was cooking fresh local mussels in an oven-tray over the coals - something I’ve done many times because it really does add a savoury smokiness which seems to embrace the mild creamy shellfish flesh in one of those ideal flavour combinations.
Sue tells me she sautés onions in wild garlic butter before adding wine and then the mussels, after which it’s just a few minutes wait for them all to open.
She also talks about flatbreads, which could perhaps be another instinctive response to thousands of years of primitive cooking. Very simple forms of unleavened bread are easy to make, but the point is that they really (I promise) undergo an almost magical flavour conversion when cooked over a flame - especially one formed by good quality charcoal.
Choosing the Best Charcoal for Your BBQ
Talking of which, some of the best charcoals are probably being produced somewhere near you - look out for a local Westcountry charcoal-maker who practises environmentally-friendly foresting techniques (such as coppicing) and you really can have your cake and eat it.
If you are in the Exmoor or West Somerset area look out for Fat Raven Charcoal made by my friend Chris Silverwood. It is superb stuff and works fabulously in my Kamado Joe egg-style barbecue. Burning long and slow I can cook a big piece of tough old beef brisket with ease.
Fat Raven’s charcoal making in West Somerset
A Simple BBQ Pizza Recipe with Caramelised Onions
Before we go onto Sue’s BBQ tips, here’s one from me… Why not test the theory about basic breads by trying out this truly delicious experiment. Most supermarkets sell basic pizza bases (frozen or fresh - plain or our local store does one with a thin layer of garlic and cheese).
When your barbecue is dying down after a session, bung two or three large whole onions beside the hot coals in preparation for your next outdoor cook. When they’re cooked through, allow them to cool before peeling off the charred skins and outer layers and collecting the soft white creamy centres in a bowl. Mash, (with some crushed garlic perhaps, and plenty of seasoning) then spread on your uncooked pizza base.
Cover with a grating of cheese (any type you like) and cook in a BBQ with the lid down. I made one of these this week and it was the best pizza I’ve had in ages. In the past week I’ve also barbecued a tomahawk of beef, a whole leg of lamb and some good sausages from a local butcher. On each occasion, the results were far better than anything I could have prepared indoors.
Award-winning Cook Sue Stoneman’s Top 5 Tips for Modern Barbecuing
What's cooking? Planning and preparation is key. What are you cooking, when and who are you inviting? Make a list. Check if you've any vegetarians. Shop for ingredients and don't forget the drinks. Sides and salads are important too. Ask for help - guests are often happy to bring a side dish or dessert.
Clean BBQ, tools and thermometer. Hopefully you left your BBQ clean the last time you used it. If not, it is a must. Good quality charcoal and natural firelighters will help your food taste great. Long handled tongs, heatproof gloves will protect your hands and a food thermometer helps ensure food is cooked properly.
Timings. If you're wanting sides and breads, you need to prepare these first. They can easily be warmed up. Make a timetable and work out how long your meat or dishes will take to cook. Work backwards from when you are wanting to eat, allowing an extra hour so you'll have everything ready for when your guests arrive. Get ahead if you can and cook some dishes the day before.
Marinate your meat overnight or on the day. Light the charcoal and leave to burn for at least 20 minutes before you start to cook. Try to have different heat zones on your grill. A hot zone for direct grilling and a cooler zone for indirect cooking.
Have fun! Guests will be arriving soon... lay the table and ensure you've plates, cutlery and glasses. Make sure drinks are chilling and you've a glass for yourself! You've done the prep and most of the cooking so now you can relax and enjoy. Happy grilling.
You can find some of Sue's bbq recipes in The BBQ Magazine and on her instagram page @sue_stoneman
Barbecue cook Sue Stoneman
Penzance Food Festival and BBQ Culture in Cornwall
And talking of barbecue related topics, the vibrant end-of-summer celebration of all things culinary returns to far west Cornwall next month. The Penzance Food Festival, which has quickly established itself as a cornerstone of Cornwall's cultural calendar, will take place at Penlee Park from September 19-21.
Penzance food festival
Following a successful debut last year, this year's festival will highlight a new partnership with Kamado Joe - the well-known manufacture of egg-style barbecue equipment. The aim is to ensure all manner of smoky flavours waft around the festival’s the Taste Theatre whittle delicious food is being cooked above the coals.
Visitors can look forward to live demonstrations and a impressive line-up of culinary talent. “The event's ethos remains rooted in celebrating Cornish identity, with a strong commitment to showcasing small-scale producers, sustainable fishing from Newlyn, and local chefs,” said a spokesman. “We are proudly sticking to our principle of sourcing traders locally, with only a handful of the 50 vendors travelling from outside Cornwall.”
To underline its environmental commitment, the festival works with Sustainable Penzance and Plastic Free Penzance to ensure a completely single-use plastic-free site. There’ll be a blend of experiences on offer, including an expanded producer market, a diverse street food village, live music, and a dedicated wellness area.
