Luscombe Drinks at 50: The Pursuit of Britain's Best Soft Drinks

The sound of milling resounded through the orchard and we watched as hundreds of fresh-picked apples bobbed along in clear water, gushing down a metal chute towards the ‘scratter’ or crusher, and eventually the press which would extract their delicious juice.

Most Westcountry folk reading this sentence will immediately assume this article is going to be about the new cider season, but I had actually gone to the Devon orchard in question to interview a man who, arguably, makes the best soft-drinks in Britain. Apple juice is one of the things for which this region should be famous - and this year there are a lot of apples about.

Liquid Perfection: Why Luscombe Stands Out

I, for one, am happy to make the ‘best in Britain’ case on behalf of Gabriel David, of Luscombe Drinks, because I really do happen to believe the company is responsible for making the finest non-alcoholic beverages in the land. And I have held that view ever since I first tasted their products which literally burst with flavour.

I first interviewed Gabriel nearly 20 years ago and so I know that he goes a very, very long way in his pursuit of liquid perfection. For a start, way back in 1998 the South Devon company became the first drinks brand in the UK to achieve Soil Association organic accreditation. But the story goes back even further than that - which is why I decided to call in at the farm in the foothills of Dartmoor recently.

This year Luscombe Drinks celebrates half-a-century of operations, which alone is an impressive fact in what is a somewhat aggressive marketplace. Founder of their move into soft drinks, Gabriel David, is a man who combines a deep-seated appreciation for tradition with a pragmatic approach to business. And as we sat down to talk amid the apple trees in the autumn sunshine, I was to learn just how pragmatic…

From Faltering Cider to Premium Soft Drinks

He began by recounting the company’s 50-year history borne, not out of some grand vision, but with a practical need to utilise old farm buildings and a defunct cider press. Luscombe’s initial foray into cider production proved challenging. The generic product of cider had become a relic product, a relic of a bygone era of harsh farm-gate ciders, and failed to find a market.

“My father set up the cider company because a family making local cider decided they were going to pack up and go to Australia. So my father comes in and buys some cider equipment from this family that were emigrating.”

In his early thirties, Gabriel eventually became involved with the cider business which, for various reasons, was faltering… “I went to an event and gave out tasters of the new season’s fresh cider, but few took up the offer in a room of 100 people. Probably 99 of them didn’t taste it. One person, generously and probably because they felt sorry for me, bought a bottle! I then suddenly realised at that point that, actually, people didn’t want cider.”

Gabriel’s response was to pivot. He had plenty of apples to juice and he leveraged a network of contacts from his childhood in Sicily to begin producing lemonade, and after that, elderflower from the hedgerows and ginger beer - a move that was a great hit in London and set the company on a new, successful trajectory, especially with those seeking an alternative to alcohol when the offering was only Coca Cola or lime and soda.

“We went into apple juice because we had apples... and having recently come back from Sicily, I also had these contacts with lemons. And we thought ginger beer would be a good bet because all the ginger beer out there was pretty appalling.”

The Ethos of Flavour: Heritage and Integrity

In some ways the Luscombe approach helps Gabriel to find good natural ingredients because growers are often hamstrung by supermarkets which expect fruit with an immaculate appearance.

“So wonky, knobbly fruit is what we’ve been doing since day one. It doesn’t matter to us - it’s going to be crushed anyway. But we also go in for old heritage varieties because they have better flavour…”

This approach does present challenges, however. Luscombe’s commitment to using natural, ethically sourced ingredients from small-scale producers puts it at a commercial disadvantage compared to larger brands that rely on bulk-purchased concentrates.

Yet, he remains firm in his belief that close, transparent relationships, which often support local communities, are a fundamental part of the brand’s identity.

“We all come across a lot of drinks brands where, marketing-wise, you might think, ‘Oh, they’re brilliant’. But scratch the surface and they are not doing what we at Luscombe do. They are more or less a labelling company, buying in bulk ingredients and getting someone to mix and bottle it for them. On the other hand, the people supplying Luscombe are doing all sorts of things like school initiatives for their local children. The money’s going back into their village, really. So it’s fair trade, without the name Fair Trade. We like the idea that we might have a positive impact on somebody else in the world.”

Luscombe’s growth has not been driven by large marketing campaigns, but by the quality of the product itself. Gabriel told me: “Our money goes straight into the bottles. I chose to put all our effort into the quality of the product, its taste and look and feel.”

The strategy has encouraged a loyal customer base and allowed the brand to grow through word of mouth. “The best thing I ever did was put our phone number on the bottle,” he laughs.

Adapting for the Next 50 Years: The Grab-and-Go Market

As the company celebrates its 50th year, Gabriel remains focused on adapting to rapid changes in the market-place - something he was forced to do when the Covid pandemic put the company under huge stress, like so many other businesses.

He told me about a new visual identity that “celebrates our rich heritage while setting us up for the next stage of growth.” And he revealed plans for a new sparkling apple juice, a product designed to meet modern consumer demand for refreshing, lower-sugar beverages. This new venture, likely to be sold in cans, represents a shift towards what’s known as the “grab-and-go” market.

A shift which is, quite simply, an essential evolution for a company that has, for decades, built its reputation on quality and tradition. His goal is to strengthen Luscombe’s position in the premium soft drinks market while staying true to the core values of “integrity and care”.

Which might all sound a little like modern trans-Atlantic “business-speak”, but in this instance I’m happy to go with it. Why? Well, if for nothing else, it’s because I believe this region should be proud to play host to companies like Luscombe Drinks.

As I watched his fresh-picked apples bobbing down the water chute, en-route to becoming some of the most delicious drinks to be found anywhere in either a can or a bottle, I thought about how genuine and authentic the Gabriel David ethos is….

You buy in the very best raw ingredients the world has to offer and you pay a good price that keeps the suppliers happy and benefits their local communities. You also purchase the very best machinery with which you can extract the finest flavours. Even more importantly you nurture your loyal staff.

Gabriel says the company’s achievements would not be possible without the patience and hard work of his employees. He believes that the hands-on approach of the staff, who manage every step from pressing and storing to bottling and deliveries, is a reason for their loyal customer base. When receiving a "Food Hero" award, he was quick to credit the 40 people "behind the scenes" at Luscombe Drinks, highlighting their collective effort.

What’s not to like? I for one am happy to raise a glass of apple juice in Luscombe’s direction and wish them all the best for the next 50 years.