Three Counties Cider and Perry Association’s Annual Perry Festival: Celebrating Britain’s Finest Pear Drink

A Celebration of Perry at the Malvern Show

James Crowden, a great friend of these pages, invited me along to the Malvern show where he was judging at the Three Counties Cider and Perry Association’s annual Perry Festival. The event is dedicated to promoting knowledge, understanding and appreciation of that most delicious of English drinks, made from fermented pear juice.

The Orchard Marquee: A Cathedral of Apples and Pears

It all takes place in the amazing orchard marquee. If the veg baskets mentioned above are shrines, then this is an full-on cathedral celebrating apples and pears. Vast displays of orchard fruit weighed down numerous stands and tables. To a breathtaking degree… I didn’t realise there were so many hundreds of different varieties. There was every kind of orchard fruit imaginable, from vast red shiny apples that would make a fairy princess blush, to tiny pears the size of marbles.

Tom Oliver and the Origins of the Perry Festival

One perry-maker manning his own stall was Tom Oliver, one of the instigators of the competition. He told me it all began years ago after Charles Martell (a well known maker of perry, even better known for his Stinking Bishop cheese) planted a collection of perry pear trees at the Three Counties show-ground.

“Perry is a drink unique to this area, so it deserves a prominent position at the show,” said Tom. “The event has grown from one small stall to a large marquee, which I consider a real triumph.”

Tom Oliver

On his stand he had 10 different perries, but explained there are at least 120 recognised perry pear varieties.

The Taste of Perry: Blends, Styles and Future Potential

“Perry can be sparkling or still, and can range from dry to medium or sweet. I believe that blends, made from two to four different varieties, are often the best approach to creating a great drink,” said Tom, who is optimistic about perry’s future. He believes that, as one of Britain’s most delicious traditional drinks, it has the potential to become more widely appreciated.

Perry for judging at Three Counties Autumn Show

Judging Perry: Expertise and Enthusiasm

A view shared by one of the judges, Alison Taffs, owner of The Hop Inn in Hornchurch, London, and founder of the London Cider Club. She told me that while the general population may lack knowledge about real perries and ciders, more and more people are willing to explore different styles.

Perry, she explained, could achieve the same level of flavour, aroma, character, and texture as fine wines like German Rieslings or Sauternes. She is particularly fond of its “gorgeous, creamy texture” - a quality that “makes you want to keep drinking”.

“It can be paired with cheese or other light foods, but it also drinks beautifully on its own, just like a good white wine,” she said.

A New Generation of Perry Producers

Another judge, Lydia Crimp, is typical of the new wave of perry producers. A former costume supervisor for prestigious venues like the National Theatre, she and her husband now make cider and perry after moving to the South West.

“People are becoming more interested in the provenance of their food and drinks, and are looking for domestically produced, high-quality products. I really can see a shift toward drinking less, but better,” she told me.

Challenges and the Road Ahead for Perry

Lydia, who is vice-chair of the Three Counties Cider and Perry Association, also talked about the challenges facing the industry. A major issue is the legal definition of cider in the UK, which only requires a minimum of 35% apple juice, allowing the rest to be made up of sugars and colourings.

However, she believes the quality of craft cider and perry is improving rapidly, thanks in part to initiatives like the Three Counties Cider and Perry Association’s conference, which helps new producers to make high-quality products.