Cornish Walks: the Scenic Mawnan Smith Peninsula
Exploring the Scenic Mawnan Smith Peninsula Coastal Walk
I first did this walk more than 25 years ago and took the following photos on a very early form of digital camera—which is why the quality of some images is not so good - but, believe me, the views around this hike are absolutely superb.
Evening view looking up Helford River
The walk is based in the attractive environs of the strangely named village of Mawnan Smith, and fits well with Hesp's patent recipe for perfect walking: i.e. you can't beat pottering around a peninsula. The peninsula in question is a ragged affair situated at the watery junction where Falmouth Bay meets the mouth of the Helford River.
Starting the Helford Passage Coastal Path Walk
I was recently at the excellent Ferry Boat Inn at Helford Passage for a dose of refreshment, and found myself reluctant to leave the waterside - it was all a-twinkle, as if the very heavens had plunged in for a dip. Far too cold, of course, for humans to immerse themselves in the sea - but certainly warm enough for us to bathe ourselves in the intense sunlight.
View from the Ferry Boat Inn at Helford Passage
Planning the Rosemullion Head Walk with Ordnance Survey Map
Reaching for Ordnance Survey Explorer Map 103, I soon planned a route along the coast - a sort of lasso-shaped walk out along Mawnan's twin-horned peninsula. It's all very simple - I merely followed the coast path east out of the Passage and kept going until I passed Rosemullion Head. Then it was up over the hill, down past the church, and back to Helford's shore again.
On the walk beyond Helford Passage
Discovering Polgwidden Cove and WWII History
The first thing the path encounters east of our start point, is the strange but beautiful Polgwidden Cove. Strange because there are signs that once mankind was very busy here - which he was: 7,500 American troops embarked for the Normandy Invasion from this cove. They were off to take Omaha Beach, and it was no joyride - within the first three hours of fighting they lost a staggering 83 percent of the fighting force in casualties.
The walk passes the private beach at Trebah
There's a memorial to these brave men just inside Trebah Gardens, which run down a small coombe to the beach. This magical wonderland is to be the subject of a special article elsewhere on this site. Suffice to say that Trebah is open to the public daily, for a well-worthwhile entry fee.
The pond at the bottom of Trebah Gardens
Passing Glendurgan Gardens and Enjoying the Helford Estuary Views
Onwards and alongwards - past another great garden, this time National Trust-owned Glendurgan - also well worth the entry fee. We however, continue along the best value thing in Britain - the absolutely free coast path.
It rounds Grebe Rock to enter the little bay at Porth Saxon. It's all very lovely indeed - in fact I can safely say there is no other stretch of the coastline like it. There's something Mediterranean about this littoral - which is not surprising really, given its sheltered south-facing aspect. Both gardens mentioned have won fame for growing plants it would be impossible to nurture elsewhere in these cold and windy isles.
Walkers above the Helford
Exploring Toll Point and Helford River Vistas
Beyond the tiny bay of Porthallack we climb into the fields and ascend around Toll Point. This is where you get the very best views of the Helford River - you can see up the estuary to where the Polwheveral Creek joins the main stream at Groyne Point. If you go on a sunny summer's day all this will be packed with people messing about in boats, but the day we were there not one maritime soul was taking advantage of the stiff breeze.
Walking the Wild Cornish Cliffs Towards Mawnan Church
Now, suddenly, we are away from the soft, Cote d'Azur style coastline of the river, and into proper Cornish wilderness. Rough cliffs and furzy downs rise up above Mawnan Shear and Parson's Beach as we make our way north-east towards the church.
Towards Rosemullion Head
Legends and History Around St Maunanus Church
Real 'Daphne Du Maurier Country' this - a place of moonlit trysts, smugglers and privateers. The old church dedicated to St Maunanus stands just inland of the steep, sea-facing woods - and the whole locale has an altogether mysterious air. And it's not all fantasy - there really were swashbuckling deeds of derring-do in these parts.
Take, for instance, the local legend, always referred to as The Fine and Brave. The tale occurred during the French Wars of the 18th century when the women of Mawnan Smith took to their heels upon hearing that an invasion force had arrived down in one of the coves. Not to run away - but to meet the French with all the force they could muster. Down the lane they went, pitchforks in hand - their petticoats flying in the wind. Red petticoats, as it happened - which was fortunate because the French mistook the women for a troop of Redcoat soldiers, and scarpered as fast as their sails would take them.
Another tiny cove on Helford River’s north shore
Following the Coastal Path to Rosemullion Head
The coast path weaves through the wood by the church to issue out onto the cliffs above Shag Rock. One day I'm going to count all the Shag Rocks off Cornwall - I bet there are hundreds - anyway, we're heading north-east again along a particularly rough bit of coast that eventually takes us to Rosemullion Head - a handsome little headland which affords superb views of Falmouth Bay and the distant mouth of the River Fal.
Returning Inland via Gatamala Cove and Mawnan Church
Fortunately for prosperity, much of the land covered by this walk (including Rosemullion Head) is owned by the National Trust. A few hundred yards west we come to a place called Gatamala Cove and inland of this there's a footpath cutting through Trust land, which we follow to the top of the hill, where we reach the road.
It's not busy with traffic, or at least it wasn't when I was there, which is just as well because we must turn left to walk down the road - back to Mawnan Church. Actually, I doubt if it ever gets too busy as the lane doesn't head anywhere but to the church, a few houses and a farm.
Hesp enjoying the Mawnan Smith walk in 2000
Enjoying the Wildflower Meadows and Returning to Helford Passage
Just to the right of the car-park next to the church, a footpath introduces the walker to a number of meadows that enjoy what must be one of the most sheltered spots in England. I suppose the little valley might get a little blustery in a westerly gale, but the day we were there it was primrose heaven - you could have sunbathed amid the banks of yellow flowers - yet just a stone's throw away you'd have frozen to death.
The path eventually meets the shore at the aforementioned Porthallack - so now it's simply a matter of retracing our footsteps west along the coast to Helford Passage.
Summary of the Helford River Circular Walk
Not the longest, wildest or most adventuresome walk in the West Country - but a fine and beautiful saunter nevertheless. And all within a few miles of one of Cornwall's biggest towns.
Fact File
Martin stayed at the excellent Budkock Vean Hotel while on his recent trip and there will be a special article about the hotel coming soon.
Basic Hike: from Helford Passage east along coast path to eventually reach Rosemullion Head - then inland to Mawnan Church and down a footpath to regain the coast path via which we return to the Passage.
Recommended map: Ordnance Survey Explorer 103 - The Lizard.
Distance and going: about four-and-a-half miles, easy going.
