Christmas in Bern: Exploring Switzerland’s Magical Festive Capital

Bern Christmas Markets: A Winter Wonderland in Switzerland

Seasonal crowds are guaranteed in the run up to Christmas at Bern, the Swiss capital – a small but ancient city perched on a steep hill which creates a large U-shaped bend in the River Aare. Bern lends itself to Yuletide magic so much, they stage not one, but nine Christmas markets each year.

There’s the Berner Sternenmarkt, right in the middle of town next to the Bundeshaus (Parliament building). This festively decorated affair has numerous chalets offering seasonal delicacies and hot beverages as well as products from local designers. My favourite was the Oscar Elch market, which takes over the Ringgenpärkli park, overlooking the river gorge. In the snow, this really is a winter wonderland.

Try the hot Gløgg (Scandinavian mulled wine made from red wine, vodka and spices) and the homemade tarte flambée – a cross between a savoury tart and a pizza. Try the hot Gløgg (Scandinavian mulled wine made from red wine, vodka and spices) and the homemade tarte flambée – a cross between a savoury tart and a pizza.

Bern’s Medieval Arcades – The Lauben

But the magic of Bern isn’t confined to the open air or the bravado of the cold. One of the city’s unsung winter heroes is its network of medieval arcades—the Lauben. These six kilometres of covered stone walkways, the longest in Europe, mean you can traverse the UNESCO-listed Old Town while protected from the Alpine elements, dipping in and out of cellar shops that seem to have barely changed in centuries. It allows for a civilised sort of shopping where one can hunt for gifts without getting damp.

Handcrafted Treasures at Münsterplatz

For those seeking something a trifle more contemplative than the bustle of the Parliament square, the market at Münsterplatz is a must. Standing beneath the towering Gothic spire of Bern Minster—the highest church tower in Switzerland—this gathering focuses strictly on high-quality handicrafts. There are no plastic trinkets here; instead, you find local artisans blowing glass, carving wood, or selling the region’s distinct ceramics. It feels less like a fairground and more like a gallery that has spilled out onto the cobblestones.

Raclette and Alpine Flavours at Waisenhausplatz

Of course, walking these steep streets builds an appetite, and the nose is constantly tempted. Beyond the Gløgg, the unmistakable aroma of melted cheese drifts from the Waisenhausplatz, the oldest of the city's gatherings. Here, amidst the nostalgia of wooden toys and festive baubles, one simply must pause for a Raclette. Watching the bubbling wheel of Alpine cheese being scraped over steaming potatoes and pickles is a piece of theatre in itself—and a hearty, necessary fuel for the walk back up the hill.

As dusk falls and the famous Zytglogge clock tower chimes the hour, the entire peninsula seems to glow, suspended in the dark curve of the river. It is a place that doesn't just celebrate Christmas; with its ancient stone and warming fires, Bern feels as though it was built specifically for it.

Zytglogge clock tower

Bern’s Best Christmas Treats: Haselnusslebkuchen & Mandelbärli

You can’t talk about Bernese sustenance without paying proper homage to the Haselnusslebkuchen. To dismiss this simply as "gingerbread" would be a grave injustice to the local bakers. Unlike the rock-hard cookies one might encounter elsewhere, the Bernese version is a revelation—curiously absent of flour and made almost entirely of ground hazelnuts, sugar, and egg whites.

It is a dense, chewy, aromatic slab of joy that practically dissolves on the tongue. Often emblazoned with the city’s heraldic bear in icing sugar, it is the sort of treat that demands to be smuggled home in a suitcase, though few make it past the airport.

Speaking of the city's obsession with the bear—a creature that has lent its name and image to the capital since the 12th century—you will inevitably encounter the Mandelbärli. These are small, bear-shaped almond cakes that come in flavours ranging from vanilla to chocolate and even Irish cream. They are lighter than the lebkuchen but equally dangerous to the waistline, perfect for slipping into a pocket as a fortification against the nipping wind.

Savory Swiss Classics: Zibelechueche & Heisse Schoggi

On the savoury front, if you have had your fill of melted cheese (if such a thing is possible), you must seek out a slice of Zibelechueche. This onion tart is the stuff of legend in Bern, usually celebrated during the November Onion Market, but happily available throughout the festive season. It is a rich, creamy, custard-like quiche that manages to be deeply comforting without being heavy—the onions rendered down to a sweet, translucent softness that pairs magnificently with a crisp glass of local Fendant wine.

And finally, for a warming finish, forego the standard coffee and order a Heisse Schoggi. This is Switzerland, after all; they do not insult you with powdered mixes and water. Expect a cup of rich, melted chocolate and milk, often topped with a mountain of Schlagrahm (whipped cream) so dense you could stand a spoon in it. It is the perfect punctuation mark to a day spent wandering the cobbles.