London Before Christmas: Where To Stay, Eat And Wander

Where to Go in the Run-Up to Christmas: London or a Staycation?

Where to go in the run-up to Christmas? Shall we head for sunnier climes, drive west to enjoy the region’s seasonally empty beaches, or maybe visit some charming old market town? As I found out in Dartmouth last week, a staycation really can help put you in the mood for the festive season – but there are those who argue that you should go the full hog and head for our capital city.

At which point it feels rude not to trot out Samuel Johnson’s famous line… “when a man is tired of London, he is tired of life…”

However, it’s a phrase that some of us question, because there are a few people – country-lovers and the like – who are not quite as enamoured with the metropolis as the famous lexicographer. I am one of those people, but even I have to go there every so often – and, when I do, I have to admit I’m still charmed if not intoxicated by the place.

I write about it here because, A) I visited recently, and B), being a travel writer, people often ask me for tips on where to stay and what to do in London. This article features two of my favourite places to stay in town.

Alternative to London “A winter staycation in Dartmouth”

Visiting London at Christmas: Why November and December Work So Well

Like a great many people, I particularly like visiting during the run-up to Christmas, or perhaps immediately afterwards in the weeks when midwinter country-life begins to lose its sparkle. If visitor numbers are anything to go by, this is a commonly held sentiment. How many people do you know who pop-up to town in November or December to take in a show, do the Christmas shopping, have a special meal, see all the sights and enjoy the festive lights? I know a great many.

The Other House, South Kensington

We had several reasons for taking GWR’s Taunton to Paddington service recently – with a journey time of just one hour forty minutes, why would anyone drive? The first reason was that my wife absolutely loves soaking up the city’s Christmassy atmosphere and she also had gifts to buy and art exhibitions to see.

As for me? Well, I was shortlisted for two prestigious British Guild of Travel Writer awards and, as it is rare to reach the finals in any category let alone two, I felt mildly confident. Surely I’d grab at least one gong? And so there I was at a glitzy awards dinner in the heart of town. Later you could have found me slumped in a very stylish apartment, also in the centre of town, shedding tears of disappointment.

I always seem to fail in London. The hugeness of the place always seems to defeat me. Which, perhaps, has caused me to fall out of love with the place in recent years.

Where to Stay in London: The Other House South Kensington Review

However, on this occasion I was at least mollified to some degree. And that was thanks to the stylish apartment. Let me explain: the other reason I’d decided to go to London at such a busy time of year was because I’d received the following email…

“The Other House South Kensington would like to invite you to experience a stay at its Residents’ Club – a hybrid concept that combines apartment-style living, boutique hotel services, and the feel of a private members’ club.”

Blimey, I thought… I normally end up sleeping on a friend’s sofa when I go to London (another reason I’m less keen to visit nowadays) so a bit of “apartment-style living”, along with boutique hotel services, would certainly make a visit a lot more jolly. Add the “feel of a private members’ club”, and I am definitely your man (he says, having never been a member of such a place).

The Other House is located a short stroll from London’s museum quarter and the Royal Albert Hall. “The ‘club flats’ feature bold interiors, kitchenettes, and relaxed living areas, available to book for a night, a week, a month or longer,” the email explained. “Guests can also access The Club at The Other House, including its vitality pool, gym, wellbeing space, and cosy lounges.”

We duly accepted the invitation and enjoyed living like visiting foreign diplomats or financiers during our short stay. There was me, swimming in the indoor heated pool, right there in the heart of London in the middle of winter, after doing a workout in the gym – and all before relaxing in an extremely cosy little lounge that looked for all the world like Sherlock Holmes’ study at 221b Baker Street.

I could fall back in love with London if every stay was going to be like this. I certainly appreciated the quiet inner-city location, which really was super-convenient for all those museums and the many other delights of South Kensington.

London Accommodation Prices: Is Central London Really Affordable?

At which point readers might mutter something about all this costing a fortune. But it doesn’t. I’ve just looked up the prices, and booking a “club flat” at The Other House for two adults this week would have cost as little as £232 for a night. Okay, so prices can go up considerably if you’re hitting weekends or anything around Christmas itself, but I see there are plenty of options in January when a comfortable apartment would cost between £230 and £260 a night.

Which, believe me, isn’t at all bad for this level of comfort and style in central London.

I’m not sure how “apartment-style-living” differs from a normal hotel. No difference at all, as far as I could make out – with the exception that there isn’t any room service, which is something I rarely require anyway. The apartment did have its own kitchenette, which we were not going to be using but could come in useful if you were staying for any length of time. Instead, we had an excellent breakfast down at street level in The Other Kitchen (which also serves all-day brunch) and a drink in the rather glitzy Owl & Monkey bar.

Oh, and the Other House South Kensington is just a quick Tube ride from Paddington (four stops on the Circle Line) making it particularly appealing for West Country folk coming up by train. So if you’re planning a last-minute visit before Christmas, that is my first recommendation.

The Other House South Kensington
https://otherhouse.com/south-kensington
Apartment-style accommodation near the museums, Royal Albert Hall and Paddington.

Kensington museums in winter

Ruby Lucy, Southbank: A Lean Luxury London Hotel

I’m also a fan of the Ruby Hotel chain, having stayed in several across Europe, including Vienna. There are three of these funky and inexpensive hotels in that city and more being launched across Europe all the time – including London’s Ruby Lucy which opened just five years ago.

The brand focusses on what they call the “lean luxury” philosophy, and the 75-room Ruby Lucy, enjoying an excellent location on the Southbank’s Lower Marsh Street, manages to encapsulate just that. The interior design is inspired by the area’s historic fairs and markets, not to mention its entertainment and theatre scene.

Which is why there’s a carnival theme running throughout this comparatively small hotel. According to the Ruby Hotel team “Rich, dark tones meet bright brass accents and subtle stripes are accented with playful props including circus drums and juggling pins.”

An accurate description of the hotel, located just a three-minute walk from Waterloo station, close to the South Bank’s assorted theatres, galleries, concert halls and independent shops.

So, a fantastic position in town and, for London at least, affordably priced. Rooms at Ruby Lucy start from £188 per night (two sharing).

Ruby Lucy Hotel, Southbank
https://www.ruby-hotels.com/en/destinations/london/ruby-lucy
Lean-luxury hotel close to Waterloo, theatres and the South Bank.

Eating Your Way Around London: Street Food, Markets and Pop-Ups

What do I enjoy when I’m in town? Eating. That’s the short but accurate answer.

Yes, we did “do” the Kensington museums while staying at the Other House recently and a very jolly afternoon I had delving into the Natural History Museum. But if I am really honest, I do love the idea of traipsing around dining on a little here and a little there.

Why? Because you can eat the world in London. It wasn’t always the case, but nowadays few cities anywhere around the planet can beat the diversity of food you find within the sound of Bow Bells.

Take a place like Pop Brixton, built from shipping containers and one of the best examples of what’s called a “modular pop-up” venue. It’s basically a social hub with a variety of street food vendors, bars, and retail shops. While the vendors can change, it consistently offers a mix of international flavours in a lively setting.

Or, close to the Ruby Lucy, there’s the Southbank Centre Food Market, well-known for its international stalls – perfect for a weekend visit, offering a huge choice of cuisines. You’ll find Korean BBQ burritos, authentic Pad Thai, Indian dosas, Vietnamese comfort food, Ethiopian vegan cuisine, Venezuelan Pabellon, Turkish Gözleme, Mauritian curries and a great deal more.

Not far away, near London Bridge, Borough Market sets the gold standard, featuring a huge number of street food vendors alongside artisan produce. You’ll find everything from French confit duck to Sri Lankan specialties and West African fusion.

Across the river, Camden Town market is well-known for its street food section. The stalls have a rapid turnover, meaning you can find everything from West African to Thai to gourmet burgers, often changing week-to-week.

Battersea Power Station at Christmas: A Family-Friendly Festive Highlight

If I’m not eating when I’m in town, I’ll be taking my two little grandsons out and about…

Years ago when I lived in London, Battersea Power Station, with its four iconic chimneys, smoked away generating a fifth of the capital’s electricity. Nowadays it is a glitzy destination, which happens to stage a major Christmas fair, ideal for tiny boys under four years of age.

The meticulously restored building is a thriving mixed-use space with more than 150 shops, over 50 restaurants, bars, apartments, and entertainment venues.

At this time of the year the riverside neighbourhood is adorned with sparkling lights, a massive Christmas tree and Art Deco-inspired decorations inside the historic Turbine Halls. Festive attractions include a riverside ice-rink and the ‘Lift 109 experience’, which takes visitors up a north-west chimney for a unique 360-degree view of the capital's festive lights. Christmas markets, family workshops, and seasonal food huts complete the picture. My two grandsons loved it.