Monchique Chestnut Festival: A Unique Autumn Celebration in the Algarve
Autumn Festivals in Portugal’s Algarve Mountains
The seasons tend to have their quintessential moments or occasions - winter, of course, has Christmas while summer has village fetes and other outdoor festivals. Apart from the Harvest Festival celebrated by some religions and the overly commercial Halloween, autumn doesn’t have that much to offer when it comes to stand-out celebrations. So imagine my delight when I came across a small, but unique event in the mountains of southern Portugal recently.
Discovering the Festa da Castanha in Monchique
Held annually around November 1st and coinciding with the traditional Portuguese harvest festival of São Martinho (St. Martin's Day), the Monchique Chestnut Festival (Festa da Castanha) is part of what could be described as the Algarve’s inland calendar.
We were with the excellent Algarve guiding company Algarvian Roots
The mountainous region of Monchique - around the small and charming town of that name - is a chestnut producing area - the only one in the south of the country according to my guide - and it likes to host an annual celebration around this most delicious of nuts.
A Chance Encounter in Monchique Town
I am told these events are staged in the villages of Marmelete and Alferce, but we quite literally stumbled upon one being held right there in the centre of Monchique. We were taking a walk around the wooded and fertile outskirts of this mountainous little town when we heard loud music emanating from somewhere in the centre of the place and I joked with my travel writer friend Lindsey Sutton that they are setting up a party to celebrate his birthday, which it happened to be.
But an hour later when strolling back into town we could smell smoke, hear music and see crowds entering a small doorway. We joined them and found ourselves in a small, steep public park laid out in terraces. These are filled with townsfolk, all gazing down towards the lower levels where a couple of rectangular shaped bonfires were being tended by men with rakes.
Traditional Roasting: Castanhas Assadas in Monchique
It was only when we drew closer that we realised the ashes of these fires consisted of small heaps of roasting chestnuts, which the men periodically stirred with their rakes to prevent the nuts burning too much on one side. The air was filled with the smoky, sweet scent of castanhas assadas (roasted chestnuts), that were being cooked in the traditional way over dried bundles of the carqueja bush, which I believe is known in English as eastern baccharis, saltbush, or groundsel bush.
Every now and again these energetic fellows rake back the flaming bundles (which looked to me like dried heather) so that people could kneel down and grab themselves a handful of fully cooked, and outwardly charred, chestnuts.
A nice lady shoved a brown paper bag into my hand and inited me to join the throng, which I did most happily because I am a huge fan of these sweet-savoury roasted nuts when they’ve been roasted to just the right degree.
São Martinho Traditions & Local Culture
I was told the festival is an old celebration of this humble product, which once formed a vital part of the area’s economy.
A local person told me: “We always gather for the magusto, a communal party which is centred on the cooking and eating of chestnuts. Traditionally we drink the new year’s wine, and enjoy local spirits like medronho brandy and melosa.”
Chestnut products at Monchique Chestnut Festival
We, indeed, enjoyed a tot or two to join in with the fun. And although we are only there for half-an-hour I enjoyed the Festa da Castanha very much indeed and now regard it as a very lovely and welcome autumn celebration.
Algarve Walking Season – useful walking guide for the region - www.algarvewalkingseason.com
Via Algarviana - www.viaalgarviana.org
