If you have spent any significant portion of your adult life standing on a draughty West Country railway platform, staring bleakly at a departure board that has just announced the 10:14 to Paddington is "delayed due to a member of the train crew being out of position," what happens in Switzerland borders on witchcraft. You step off a flight into Zürich, follow the signs downstairs to a train platform, and board a sleek double-decker express bound for the high Alps. The second hand clicks onto the twelve, a whistle blows, and two hundred tonnes of precision engineering glides silently into motion. It does not shudder; it does not apologise. It just goes. I have just returned from five days of careering around the Bernese Oberland and beyond, trying my level best to see if you can truly navigate one of the most rugged, vertical landscapes in Europe without ever touching a car steering wheel. Travel writer Martin Hesp aboard a Swiss ferry on Lake Biel The entire escapade hung on a single digital bar code stored on my telephone... The Swiss Travel Pass. Before the full, blow-by-blow despatches begin in print — starting with my usual double-page spread in this Saturday's Hesp Out West — I wanted to post the 12-minute film I shot while on the move. It gives a far better sense of the sheer, kinetic madness of the trip than a handful of glossy postcards ever could. Watch the Film: Testing the Swiss Travel Pass One Pass, Endless Connections The premise of the Swiss Travel Pass sounds like the fever dream of an exhausted British commuter: one ticket covering virtually every scheduled mainline train, rack railway, postal bus, lake steamer, and city tram in the country. And it actually works. There is no wrestling with automated ticket barriers that refuse to swallow a crumpled cardboard stub, and no panic over missed connections. If you linger too long over a glass of Chasselas in a lakeside village, you don’t find yourself stranded for the night; you simply stroll down to the jetty or the halt, wait twelve minutes, and catch the next pristine conveyance heading your way. In the space of under a week, we put that pass through its paces: Martin on the Schiltorn, Up into the clouds at Piz Gloria: Hauling up the sheer rock faces of the Lauterbrunnen valley on the world’s steepest cable car to stand atop the Schilthorn at 2,970 metres, where George Lazenby once fled Ernst Stavro Blofeld, and where the Eiger and Jungfrau look close enough to touch. Footpaths through the vines: Chugging across Lake Biel by boat, then walking the narrow, sunlit terrace tracks between Ligerz and Twann, where the winemakers still tend tiny biodynamic parcels by hand right down to the water's edge. Sunlit terrace tracks between Ligerz and Twann The Luzern–Interlaken Express: Crossing mountain passes with a morning coffee in hand while the cogwheel tracks ground us up past turquoise waters that looked almost absurdly over-saturated. Steaming across Lake Lucerne: Trading steel rails for polished brass and timber decks on a lunchtime paddle cruise beneath the shadow of Mount Pilatus. Bicycles and funiculars: Pedalling an e-bike along the glacial rivers of Interlaken, before riding the vintage funicular up to the crow’s nest perch of Harder Kulm to stare back down at the narrow strip of land separating two colossal lakes. More to Come A short film can give you the sweep and the scale, but it misses the smaller, quirkier textures — the aroma of melted Gruyère bubbling over a burner while floating down a river in an inflatable raft, the conversations with local vine-dressers over a sharp, mineral white wine, and the quiet genius of how a nation decided that a mountain peak is no excuse not to build a railway station. Those stories are on the way. Look out for the first major instalment in Saturday’s newspapers, after which I’ll be running a series of detailed guides and photo-essays right here on the site — including a proper, hard-nosed appraisal of whether the Swiss Travel Pass actually saves you money, and how best to tackle the routes if you're planning a trip yourself. Ferries on Lake Biel For now, give the film above twelve minutes of your time, and see what happens when a country takes moving from A to B completely seriously. For more information on Switzerland, visit switzerland.com Swiss International Air Lines (SWISS) SWISS offers more than 160 weekly flights from the UK to Zurich or Geneva. One-way fares start from £76 to Zurich and from £54 to Geneva, and include all taxes etc, one piece of checked luggage weighing up to 23kg and one piece of hand luggage. SWISS will also transport your first set of ski or snowboard equipment free of charge in addition to your standard free baggage allowance subject to availability (excluding hand-luggage-only fares). swiss.com Travel Switzerland Travel Switzerland’s Swiss Travel Pass offers international visitors to Switzerland unlimited travel on consecutive days across the rail, bus and boat network, plus scenic routes (seat reservation fees apply) and local trams and buses in around 90 towns and cities. It also includes the Swiss Museum Pass, which grants free entry to 500 museums and exhibitions. Prices start from £254 for a three-day second-class ticket. swisstravelpass.com - also see the special Day Discoveries website https://www.travelswitzerland.com/experiences/day-discoveries/ Ascending the Schilthorn on one of the steepest cable cars in the world Airport Help For West Country residents, flying from Heathrow can be a challenge. Holiday Extras is the market leader in UK airport parking, hotels, lounges, and transfers – and in 2025 its customers saved an average of £200 per trip by booking their airport parking in advance. Booking an airport hotel with parking means you can enjoy more holiday with less hassle – and can actually cost less than booking airport parking alone. A standard room at Hilton Garden Inn T2 & T3 with six days’ Purple Parking Meet & Greet T2 at Heathrow Airport is available for £464.66 (based on arrival on 11/11/2026). Plus with Flextras, if you need to cancel or amend you can without charge. For more information and to book, HolidayExtras.com or call 0800 316 5678.

Watching food and travel documentaries is a wonderful way to open your eyes to new, exciting opportunities. Whether you have a particular destination or cuisine in mind, the right documentary can inspire unforgettable experiences. Lunch in St Lucia With so many documentaries focusing on food and travel, creating a shortlist of recommendations is a challenge. But I’ve decided to focus on programmes that have captivated me and fed into my life. A few of my selections focus more on food than travel, but these picks still offer enough holiday inspiration for any wanderer. Quick note: I watched some of them in the UK and others abroad. Depending on where you’re based, you may need to use a VPN to stream some of my picks from abroad. Anthony Bourdain: Parts Unknown The late Anthony Bourdain made 12 seasons of Parts Unknown, which followed him as he visited everywhere from Myanmar to Bhutan. Bourdain shone a light on locations and cuisines that received less coverage than others. If you’re hungry for a series that offers more variety and intrigue than other food and travel shows, Parts Unknown could be what you’re looking for. Chef’s Table Chef’s Table is one of the most successful food and travel documentaries on Netflix. It still inspires conversation and articles long after its debut. One Salon.com writer has explained how the series positively impacted their perspective of food. Each episode introduces us to a new chef hard at work in their kitchen, demonstrating their personal methodology. Chefs range from Grant Achatz, an American, to Corrado Assenza, a Sicilian. Chef’s Table is shot with immense style and celebrates different types of cooking around the world. It may help you find new places to visit on your travels and food you didn’t realise you’d been living without. Multiple spin-off series focus on specific countries and foods, offering more fuel for your wanderlust. Chefs at work in Porto Santo Street Food The same team that made Chef’s Table created Street Food. It takes you on a world tour with a tight focus on fast food served outdoors. Street Food features interviews with chefs in Thailand, Japan, Taiwan, South Korea, Mexico, and various other countries. Even if a particular type of street food fails to fire up your appetite, the locations may still hold your attention. Street Food is a nice contrast to Chef’s Table and other series that showcase cooks working in kitchens. It presents food professionals within smaller spaces catering to customers in often bustling locations. Street food in Switzerland The Chef Show Jon Favreau may be best known for kickstarting the Marvel Cinematic Universe with his Iron Man films and dabbling in the Star Wars sandpit. But Favreau is also a dedicated foodie and cook. In The Chef Show, Favreau and chef Roy Choi travel to various locations across the States to explore different types of cuisine. The programme’s laid-back mood and the host’s passion for the subject matter ensure that The Chef Show is well worth a watch. Anyone who has visited the States knows the food across the pond is tremendous. And The Chef Show features some great locations and dishes for your wish list. Street food in Marbella Ugly Delicious Ugly Delicious is another Netflix series that brings food and travel together in one entertaining package. Host David Chang travels to multiple locations to sample a range of foods. In episode one, for instance, Chang focuses on pizza in diverse countries, from the States to Japan. Later episodes cover curry, tacos, and other types of popular food. Combining Your Love of Travel and Food for Unforgettable Trips For as many as 80% of people, local cuisine is a major influence on their travel choices. I certainly believe that discovering new dishes is one of the most enriching aspects of travelling. Whether I visit a Michelin-starred restaurant or eat beside a food truck, I love finding memorable places to eat. But deciding where to go on holiday is always difficult when you have so many incredible options to consider. Watching the documentaries I’ve selected will introduce you to new ideas and help you easily plan amazing breaks abroad.

Two Fabulous Coastal Restaurants in the South West MOR at Carbis Bay: A New Approach to Cornish Seafood The other evening I sat in a Cornish restaurant peering through the big view windows at the sea, and experienced one of those interludes when you stop short for a few seconds and enjoy a very special moment. Why? Because the mackerel I’d just eaten was the best bit of seafood I’d consumed in a long time. So good that, after a while, I went on one of my social media streams and wrote: “The mackerel dish served at Mor, a new restaurant at Carbis Bay near St Ives, is arguably the best bit of mackerel being sold anywhere in the UK today. I’d go as far as to say that it would be worth catching a train from London and travelling the five-and-a-half-hours to enjoy. It is that good.” MOR at Carbis Bay: A New Approach to Cornish Seafood So why was it so good? Well, for a start it had been cooked over a mix of Japanese and local hardwood charcoal - and it was served with a stunning selection of no fewer than eight different condiments, all of which helped magnify and enhance the magnificent flavours of that salty, smoky, oily fish. But it was more than that. The whole ethos surrounding the concept of seafood cookery at MOR is on another level, partially based on a tome called The Whole Fish Cookbook, by Australian chef Josh Niland, which has revolutionised the way people are thinking about the creatures of the sea as a food-source. Market fish served at Mor, Carbis Bay I remember Cornish chef Nathan Outlaw, who is generally recognised as one of the best seafood cooks in the country, talking about Niland's work when it came out: “This book is a game-changer! Josh has literally taken all the old ways of fish prep and cookery and thrown the bad ones out of the window then turned what remains on its head.” In the foreword to the book, Rick Stein added: “If you love cooking fish this book will be a revelation. You’ll learn about dry-ageing to concentrate flavour and using every part but the bubble from the fish’s mouth!” Delicious clam dish at MOR, Carbis Bay Dry-Aged Fish and the Whole-Fish Cooking Philosophy Dry-aging… Most foodies will have heard of the term in conjunction with red meat, but nowadays the very best seafood restaurants do the same with fish. And right there in the hugely impressive new kitchen at MOR, there is a posh-looking glass cabinet in which various creatures of the Cornish seas hang over huge blocks of pink Himalayan salt which helps to both dry the flesh and to develop the flavours. Later, just as I was about to leave the restaurant, I bumped into executive chef Tom Anglesea who told me: “Your butterflied mackerel will have been in there for 24 to 36 hours before going out onto the grill. And it will not have touched water since it was caught by a local fisherman on a hand-line. We have strict and specific requirements - all of which help bring the very best out of every bit of seafood we serve. “If you’ve read Josh Niland’s books, you’ll know about the sort of thing we are trying to achieve.” I have read them - and this is the sort of thing Tom’s talking about… In the very introduction to his first book there is a double-page photographic diagram of a single fish that has been dissected and divided into no fewer than 31 edible parts. These include cheek, jowl, collar, throat and heart - bone-marrow, blood, liver and spleen. If you thought the nose-to-tail style of eating was confined to large animals like pigs or cattle, think again. A tuna, caught in Cornish waters for Mor at Carbis Bay And it’s the sort of thing they’re doing at this fabulous new restaurant called MOR, which is now part of the hugely impressive, forward-thinking Carbis Bay Estate… The name itself is the old Cornish word for the sea. It is a simple, direct title, and sitting there right above the tide line looking across the white curve of Carbis Bay, you can see why they didn’t bother looking any further for a name. The pedigree behind the project is considerable. Chef Patron Tom Sellers, best known for his two-Michelin-starred Restaurant Story in London, first dipped a toe into Cornish waters back in 2019 with a summer pop-up. It proved so successful that he returned to establish something permanent. But it is Tom Anglesea and head chef Corrin Harrison who are handling the day-to-day work at the pass. Anglesea made his reputation running the kitchen at The Laughing Heart in Hackney, while Harrison arrived from Gareth Ward's two-Michelin-starred Ynyshir and its sister restaurant, Gwen, where he had been head chef. Together, they have created a room that does not play by the usual seaside restaurant rules. No breadcrumbed fillets or polite, butter-drenched standards. Instead, you get whole Cornish plaice, day-boat sea bass, and prime turbot hauled straight from the local markets and hung in that dry-ageing salt room, before being cooked over charcoal and brought whole to the table for sharing. Even the meat side of the menu takes its cue from serious local sourcing, with aged beef on the bone coming from Philip Warren up in Launceston. It’s not cheap. That has to be said. My fabulous mackerel was £34 which was fine I thought, given the condiments, new potatoes and salad. A 500g serving of miso cured monkfish would cost £75 and one kilo of Cornish ‘ikejime' sea-bass would be £130 - but for my wife and I that would be a sharing plate. I’d still say excellent value for money. Because the team at MOR really do go the extra sea-mile. There is a huge amount of work in this kind of food and the flavours really do reflect that time and care - and I was impressed how completely they have embraced the idea that nothing from the ocean should be wasted. Cornish Bluefin Tuna: A Special Dinner at MOR Which brings me to the marine story that will be unfolding in the restaurant later this month. On Friday, October 30, the restaurant is hosting a dedicated Tuna Night to celebrate the extraordinary return of Atlantic bluefin to our coastal waters. It’s an oceanic story that would have seemed impossible a decade ago, but today these torpedo-shaped giants are once again boiling bait-balls of mackerel and pilchards right under the cliffs. To mark the occasion, commercial fisherman Kieran Burkhill and his crew-mate Kyle Robinson are coming ashore from their Mevagissey boat, the Stargazy. Operating under strictly controlled, rod-and-reel licences, they land these immense creatures using a custom stern-ramp to ensure the fish is handled with supreme care. Kieran will co-host the evening alongside Tom Anglesea, beginning with a live breakdown of a whole bluefin right there in the dining room, explaining the butchery and zero-waste philosophy behind cuts like the rich belly and lean loin. The MOR team will then send out a five-course tasting menu built around that fish - from raw sashimi with English wasabi and house-made smoked tuna soy, to a rich broth made from the roasted bones, followed by prime loin gently poached in chicken fat and served with MOR tuna garum, before finishing with their signature Medjool date and custard tart. Marine scientist Emily Theobald from the Cornish Fish Producers’ Organisation will also be on hand, explaining the research they’re doing with the University of Exeter into what these apex predators are feeding on. It’s proper, serious, ocean-to-plate cooking with complete respect for the beast. Tickets are £150, but guests even leave with a portion of that tuna to cook at home - a fitting souvenir from a restaurant that is taking Cornish seafood into an entirely new dimension. The Porlock Weir Hotel on the West Somerset coast Another Coastal Venue: The Porlock Weir Hotel in Somerset Another day, another moment of foodie admiration on the West Country shoreline - this time 150 miles north-east up the coast in Somerset… At the Porlock Weir Hotel to be precise, where chef-publican Miguel Tenriero was showing me his new autumn menu which, it has to be said, is equally inventive and delicious, but set within a lower price bracket. South African-born Miguel, who comes from a Portuguese family, has spent seven years at the helm of this handsome, 17-bedroom waterside inn, and he puts on no airs and graces. “I’m head chef, publican, and general dog’s body really,” he laughed as he laid out a few test plates. Chef-publican Miguel Tenriero at the Porlock Weir Hotel But what comes out of his kitchen is remarkably accomplished. His team is nothing but international - featuring Polish, Hungarian, and Tunisian chefs - and that cross-pollination shows in the cooking. “We try to create a European fusion menu,” Miguel explained. “Everyone brings their own background and we give it our own twist.” Exmoor Produce and Inventive Cooking at Porlock Weir Take the Brixham monkfish tail (£28.50), wrapped in Parma ham and served with a paprika puree and a super-concentrated, crystal-clear tomato consommé. Or the locally shot Exmoor red deer loin (£29), served with braised shoulder tucked inside a Roscoff onion and a clever red cabbage ketchup. Wild mushroom tart at Porlock Weir Hotel Vegetarians are treated with equal respect. Miguel’s butternut squash Wellington (£23.50) is an intensive, three-day labour of love. The squash is roasted and shaped, rolled with mushroom duxelles and spinach pancakes, rested for 24 hours, and then baked off to order. “If you’re charging people for a main course, you have to put in the effort to make it worth it,” he told me. With mains largely hovering between £22 and £29 - beef coming from Westermill Farm just six miles away - it offers genuine, generous cooking in one of the most tranquil spots in the West Country. I am biased, being a West Somerset boy born-and-bred, but I believe Porlock Weir to be one of the most beautiful, scenic, places along the entire West Country coast. The fact there’s a really good watering-hole right on the harbour-side is a fantastic bonus. In an era of eye-watering bills, that makes a visit to this haven of fine food well-worth the journey. Miguel’s butternut squash Wellington (£23.50) is an intensive, three-day labour of love

Tresco in the Isles of Scilly How Tresco Farm is bringing fresh, local food back to the islands If someone were to ask me where the healthiest food in all of Britain is being produced, I’d probably point to an island 28 miles west of Land’s End. After all, the amount of atmospheric pollutants that rain down on the soils of the Scillonian archipelago must be negligible - and ever since agriculture began in the islands it always was, by geographic necessity, going to lean towards a more natural, less intensive, form of production. Those two facts alone must stand for something. I was thinking this the other day after being invited over to the islands to meet a dynamic young couple who have taken over the reins of the farm on Tresco. Which in itself is something because with 160 acres, it is (I believe) the largest farm anywhere in the isles. No pressure then. Like all farms, the one they’re now running has to pay its way - and the economic realities of Scillonian farming are quite unlike anything you’ll find on the mainland. But then, Ruth and Graham Eggins were armed with a decade’s worth of hands-on island-farming experience, having been tenants at Hillside Farm, on neighbouring Bryher. Most farms in this country send their produce away for sale - on the Scillies, where transportation is so notoriously difficult, you must rely on customers to come to you. Check out our post on the history of farming the Isles of Scilly Ruth and Graham Eggins, Tresco Farm, From Bryher to Tresco: a new adventure in island farming Graham and Ruth quickly learned to adapt and also find a way to process and market the vegetables they were growing in poly-tunnels. They cleverly changed the dynamics by planting drought-tolerant chillies and building a commercial kitchen in which they could make hot sauces and jams, for sale both on the islands and the mainland. That move turned winter - and the Christmas mail-order market - into their busiest, most lucrative season. All well and good, but Graham - who comes from a well-established Devon farming family - always wanted to increase his livestock herd (Red Devons), so when the running of the much larger and more extensive Tresco farm came up, it seemed like a very obvious move to make. What followed last summer was a “frazzled” double-act, commuting by boat between Bryher and Tresco, before fully making the move. Now they well and truly have their feet in the rich Tresco soil, so much so that the island marketing director Tom Matthews invited me over to meet the couple and see how they are well on their way to making this unique community a lot more self-sufficient. We met in one of the large barns right in the rural heart of the island, behind which truly impressive new vegetable gardens stretch away towards the all-important Atlantic tree cover. Red Devon cattle and tree cover on Tresco “Initially, I was asked to come over and just give a hand over winter... and ‘give a hand’ suddenly turned into full-time work! It led on from there, and then we sat down and had a chat with Adam Dorrien-Smith, and he said, 'Would you ever consider moving over to Tresco?' Before that moment it wasn’t even anywhere on our horizon.’ “I think, in all honesty, we’d done lots at Hillside - and we’d done as much as we probably could. This kind of did feel like a new adventure,” commented Ruth. “Being on this much larger farm and working with the Tresco team, as well as having all the other resources here - just gives us more opportunity and a bit more flexibility.” Red Devon cattle and a more productive Tresco Farm It was a big jump… “From 40 acres to 160 now... and due to get slightly bigger because we’re going to start grazing the outer heathland areas. At the moment we’ve got 52 head of cattle here, because we’re still calving at the moment,” said Graham, his eyes lighting up at the mention of the Red Devon cattle. “We are going to drop numbers down slightly, just to enable the ground to recover and get to a good stage - let the soil recover slightly - and then see where we are and slowly increase numbers again. “It’s all a big learning curve - we always wanted to do meat as well as vegetables and sell it on the island. That was a really big step for us... but we are crazily enthusiastic. It’s a massive adventure, one of those once-in-a-lifetime things you get to do. “We’re really lucky here in the fact that the island chefs - like Liam at the New Inn - wants everything on an animal. He wants all the bones, he wants all the fat- and he renders it all down. That is music to the ears of a farmer producing beef. The lesser cuts is what he’s after - and that’s where the flavour is.” “This is a forever-project,” explained Ruth. “It’s not just about the time we’re here. I’m hoping this is a real legacy job... It’s about Tresco perhaps not being totally self-sufficient, but certainly proactive. We had long talks with Adam and it was kind of like the beginning of his vision - what he’s looking to do with the island going into the future... He wants to keep Tresco very much as it is, but he’s got a vision of what he wants to do, and a big part of that is the farm - and getting the farm back up to being more productive.” See our post on the famous annual Tresco Flower Count Ruth Eggins and the Tresco pigs Fresh vegetables grown on Tresco for island restaurants Ruth is in the process of setting up 18 no-dig beds from scratch. Adam Dorrien-Smith had casually asked in an early meeting, “Would it be possible to have a few bags of salad…? As we walked out among the amazingly productive looking beds, Ruth grinned as she proudly reported that they’ve already harvested over 130 kilograms of cavolo nero and kept the Tresco Stores and restaurants continuously supplied with salad greens since early May. “Fragile leafy greens do not travel well on the Scillonian or by freight,” she said. “By the time mainland greens arrive, they’re exhausted. Having them cut that morning is a revelation for visitors and locals alike.” Now, I have reason to be very impressed with all this. Just over 50 years ago as an 18-year-old, I spent an entire summer on St Agnes, camping for free and earning a bit of pocket money in return for helping the local farmer harvest his amazing early potatoes and other island veg. I remember the fabulous and extraordinarily delicious bounty of it all. Years later, I started returning to the islands on a regular basis in the very early 2000s working for this newspaper, and was astonished and saddened to discover that almost no fresh veg was being grown. To be honest, the food offer in Scilly back then was pretty atrocious. Today it has, for the most part, come full circle. There’s a lot of good stuff being produced and prepared across the islands. I had an excellent dinner in the New Inn on Tresco one night last week. Graham Eggins and the Tresco cattle The challenges of farming on the Isles of Scilly Okay, so it’s not easy. Nothing on these windswept chunks of rock out there in the ocean is. Island farming is brutally unforgiving on infrastructure. For example, when Graham first put cattle near the old market garden plots, the herd drank the trough dry and drained that entire side of the island’s freshwater supply in hours. The estate had to step up with real investment: 100,000-litre rainwater harvesting tanks installed uphill to gravity-feed the beds. However, increasing self-sufficiency does make an awful lot of sense in so many ways. Tresco can have as many as 800 visitors staying in a single week in season, then there are between 140 and 160 who actually live on the island. Obviously, there’s a whole heap of stuff that cannot be produced locally and has to be imported - but why bring fresh meat and veg from the mainland if you don’t have to? Now, Ruth is in regular discussions with island chefs, tailoring crops to the menus. They are trialling Italian agretti for the Hell Bay Hotel (on Bryher), planning poly-tunnels for tomatoes, and even planting sea kale to force under pots next spring - reviving a tradition that made Scilly famous for early delicacies back in the 1880s. Along the way, the farm is weaving itself back into everyday island life. The 15 children from the local island school regularly come down to get their hands dirty and see where their dinner comes from. Check out our post on the best walks to be found in the Isles of Scilly A good beef pie at the New Inn, Tresco Happy pigs and a more natural approach to farming And then there are the pigs. Ruth told me about a recent visit from a mainland Farmers’ Club - hard-bitten, retired agriculturalists in their seventies. “We were up tickling the pigs, watching them root around and jump about, generally having a wonderful time,” Ruth recalled. “One of the old farmers asked if we clipped their teeth or worried about tail-biting. I told him no, we don't do any of that here. He looked at them for a long moment and said: ‘I haven't seen pigs look so happy and act like pigs since I was a boy.’ “And I thought to myself: that is what Tresco Farm is all about. Productive, but gentle and genuine.” In an increasingly plastic and pre-packaged world, that kind of honesty is priceless. Travellers who come to these shores don’t just want scenery - they want authenticity. And on this breezy western outpost, Graham and Ruth Eggins are proving that common-sense farming isn't just a nod to the past - it is the very healthiest recipe for the future. Fact File: Visiting Tresco and travelling by helicopter Penzance Helicopters An island escape should begin with an unforgettable journey. With Penzance Helicopters, the Cornish coastline gives way to the open waters of the Atlantic. Soon, the white sands and turquoise shallows of the Isles of Scilly come into view. In around 20 minutes, passengers touch down on St Mary’s or Tresco, ready to settle into island life. The only operator offering direct flights to Tresco, Penzance Helicopters brings the islands within easy reach, whether for a leisurely day exploring or a longer retreat. Helicopter fares and booking details For those planning a day trip, the current (autumn 2026) published return fares are: Single fare - £184.50 - return from £369. The helicopter flight itself takes about 20 minutes each way, and a day-trip fare allows up to nine hours on the islands. For full fare details and to book, visit penzancehelicopters.co.uk or call 01736 780828. Where to stay on Tresco The New Inn: B&B (based on two sharing) from £251 per person per night (2027 prices). Sea Garden Apartments: From £415 per night. Cottages: From £1,280 per week.

Northern cliffs of Majorca Fifty years ago, when I first drove a beaten up hire car into the centre of rural Majorca and discovered the livestock market at Sineu, the place smelled of chickens, wet fleece, the leather of mule tack, and cheap local tobacco… It was a Majorca not seen by the majority of tourists who went there - both back then and now - although things have changed a lot and a great many more people nowadays are looking for an authentic experience when they go abroad. Back then the average British or German tourist went to the beach, covered themselves in Ambre Solaire, and cooked themselves turning as red or brown as they could stand. The Majorcan package deal was mass tourism at its most relentless... Sunburn, neon-lit strips, and beaches paved shoulder-to-shoulder with identical plastic loungers. Yet anyone who has ever taken the trouble to steer off the southern motorway network knows the island holds another world entirely. It is a landscape of ancient dry-stone terraces, scent-laden citrus groves, sheep-bells clinking among twisted olive trunks, and the honey-coloured ramparts of the Serra de Tramuntana rising out of a cobalt sea. Over the decades on our family holidays, we returned to Majorca time and again. We were drawn not by the promise of cheap resort nightlife, but by the quiet dignity of its older quarters, its rugged topography, and what is, hopefully, enduring rural culture. It is a beautiful and very diverse island. Under the Shadow of the Tramuntana Our fondest memories are from a short break we took in Deià, perched high above the sea on the island’s northwest flank. The village is famously linked to the British poet and novelist Robert Graves, who made it his sanctuary for decades. It is easy to see why he stayed - there is a magnetic, magnificent, stillness about the steep terraces. We stayed in a delightful hotel just down the road from the celebrated Belmond La Residencia - the ultra-luxurious bastion once championed by Richard Branson. While the wealthy drifted discreetly past high stone walls, we were perfectly content with our own view across the valley, watching the late-afternoon sun turn the limestone peaks from warm amber to violet as the cicadas struck up their evening chorus. All of that, and at a tenth of the price. Port de Sóller under cloudy skies Further along the coast, Port de Sóller offered a very different, maritime rhythm. Set around a near-perfect horseshoe bay, its promenade carries the nostalgic clatter of the vintage wooden tram rattling down from the mountain town of Sóller above. We made the classic journey several times—first catching the famous mahogany-and-brass electric train from the heart of Palma, grinding slowly up into the mountains through tunnels and fragrant orange orchards, before transferring to the open-sided tram that trundles all the way to the water’s edge. In the evenings, the port's bay was often as calm as a millpond, reflecting the rigging of traditional llaüt fishing craft and the warm glow of harbour-side tavernas. Coves, Headlands, and Coastal Sanctuaries Further north, Cala Sant Vicenç holds a particularly special place in my memory. Cradled below soaring, jagged cliffs, its pocket coves of pale sand and turquoise water feel cut off from the modern world. Cala Sant Vicenç holds a particularly special place in my memory It was here, in that sheltered, crystalline water, that my son first learned to swim—a tiny boy paddling fearlessly beneath the towering Mediterranean cliffs. We always gravitated towards Port de Pollença, with its wide, sweeping bay and gentle, tree-lined waterfront. From there, the road heads out onto the peninsula to the south towards the Ermita de la Victoria. Perched high above the rocky shoreline, with sweeping views across the shimmering waters of Pollença Bay, there was a wonderful restaurant sitting just above the beach—the kind of place where a cold beer and a platter of simply grilled sardines taste better than any Michelin-starred meal, accompanied only by the scent of wild pine needles heating in the midday sun. Beyond Pollença, the drive out along the narrow spine of Cap Formentor was always essential. It is a wild, wind-battered finger of rock where sheer precipices drop hundreds of feet into churning surf, offering a stark reminder that Majorca is, at heart, a rugged mountain range pushed up out of the sea. The cliffs towards Cap Formentor Rustic Heartlands and Island Flavours On another memorable trip, a generous reader offered us the use of her private holiday home inland. Tucked into the foothills northwest of Inca—in the quiet countryside around villages like Mancor de la Vall, Selva, and Campanet, an area long favoured by British expats who prefer quiet olive groves to coastal bustle—we discovered a slower, agricultural heartbeat. (Check out our posts on another Mediterranean island, Sardinia, here) It was during those inland wanderings that we explored the island's interior markets. When I first visited forty years ago, the Wednesday market in Sineu was a remarkably rustic, earthy affair. Farmers gathered in the main square to trade livestock, donkeys, and poultry, and the surrounding streets smelled of leather harness, local sheep's cheese, and woodsmoke. Even as the years have introduced tourist stalls, Sineu’s ancient stone core retains the feel of an agricultural hub that has gathered on that exact spot since the 14th century. It is in these inland towns that Majorcan food truly shines. Beyond the coast’s fresh catches, the island’s cuisine is hearty, peasant cooking at its best. There is the rich, comforting tumbet—layers of sliced potatoes, aubergines, and red peppers fried in good olive oil and bathed in garlic-scented tomato sauce—and sobrassada, the cured, paprika-laced sausage spread warm over crusty pa amb oli (country bread rubbed with raw ramallet tomatoes and doused in oil). For dessert, nothing beats a spiral of powdered-sugar ensaïmada torn apart over morning coffee. (See our posts on another sunshine isle - Sicily - by clicking here) A Landscape for Every Chapter Travel has a way of weaving itself indelibly into the chapters of our lives. Decades ago, after a difficult patch when my partner and I briefly separated, we spent time together in Porto Cristo on the eastern coast. Walking along that long, sheltered natural harbour, watching the boats bobbing in the inlet, and cycling hire-bikes deep into the interior, far away from the resort bustle, the island provided a quiet, restorative backdrop when we needed it most. Majorca has shouldered the burden of mass tourism for well over half a century, yet its ancient soul remains remarkably intact. Step just five minutes away from the tourist bars and shops, head into the foothills, or sit down at an inland village tavern, and you find a Mediterranean classic whose stone villages, high passes, and quiet waters never lose their hold. See our post on the lovely island of Poros, here

Sorrento has long been one of the most elegant gateways to Southern Italy. Perched above the Bay of Naples, it offers celebrated hotels, panoramic terraces, historic streets and easy access to some of the Mediterranean’s most desirable destinations. Yet the most exclusive way to experience this corner of Italy begins below the cliffs: aboard a private boat. From the sea, Capri and the Amalfi Coast reveal a beauty that cannot be fully appreciated from the road. The coastline becomes a succession of dramatic cliffs, secluded coves, sea caves and villages rising almost vertically from the water. Travelling by private boat turns the journey into part of the experience, replacing traffic, crowded ferries and fixed schedules with space, privacy and complete freedom. Why explore the coast from Sorrento by private boat? Sorrento occupies a privileged position between Capri and the Amalfi Coast. From its marinas, guests can reach the island’s iconic rock formations, Positano’s colourful waterfront, the fjord of Furore and the historic town of Amalfi without spending hours navigating the region’s congested coastal roads. A private charter also allows the itinerary to remain flexible. Guests can leave early to enjoy the Blue Grotto before the busiest hours, stop beneath the Faraglioni for a swim or remain at anchor while lunch is served on board. Choose a company that works with experienced skippers. They can recommend secluded bays, adapt the itinerary to sea conditions and arrange a stop at a waterfront restaurant accessible directly by boat, making your day truly memorable. This freedom is one of the most authentic expressions of luxury. It is the possibility of deciding where to go, how long to stay and when to change plans, without adapting the day to ferry timetables or organised groups. Capri from a more exclusive perspective Approaching Capri aboard a private boat (or yacht) offers an unforgettable first impression. The Faraglioni appear on the horizon, limestone cliffs rise from intensely blue water and villas emerge between the rocks and Mediterranean vegetation. A tour around the island reveals places that remain invisible to visitors arriving only by ferry. Depending on the conditions, guests can explore the Green Grotto, admire the White Grotto, pass beneath the Natural Arch and swim near Marina Piccola. The Blue Grotto can also be included when sea conditions and waiting times allow. There is still time to disembark and visit Capri or Anacapri, but the boat provides a peaceful retreat whenever the island becomes crowded. Instead of following a rigid sightseeing schedule, the day can alternate between time ashore, swimming and relaxation on deck. Positano and Amalfi without the traffic The coastal road to Positano and Amalfi is famous for its views, but during the high season it is equally known for traffic, limited parking and unpredictable travel times. By boat, the same route becomes effortless. Leaving Sorrento, the journey follows the coastline past Punta Campanella and the protected waters overlooking Li Galli. Positano gradually comes into view from the sea, its pastel-coloured buildings unfolding across the mountainside. Further east are Praiano, the fjord of Furore, Conca dei Marini and Amalfi. Guests can go ashore for shopping and sightseeing, enjoy lunch at a restaurant overlooking the water or spend the afternoon swimming away from the busiest beaches. Several renowned restaurants between the Sorrentine Peninsula, Capri and the Amalfi Coast can be reached directly by boat, transforming lunch into another memorable chapter of the journey. A yacht for every interpretation of luxury The right vessel shapes the entire experience, which is why the luxury yacht fleet offered by one of the best charter company in town, PdG Boat Tours includes different styles of navigation. The Cayman 540 WA, a contemporary walk-around yacht built in 2025, is designed for travellers who love open-air living, generous sunbathing areas and dynamic cruising. Its fold-out side decks extend the cockpit over the water, while a Seakeeper stabiliser, Starlink connectivity and elegant interiors bring modern technology and comfort on board. For those drawn to performance and Italian design, the Azimut 62S combines powerful navigation with sophisticated living spaces. Its sliding hard top opens the saloon to the sky, while the bathing platform provides direct access to the sea. The Dellapasqua Fly offers the atmosphere of a floating villa, with several separate areas for relaxing, dining and enjoying panoramic views. It is an excellent choice for families or groups who value space and privacy. Guests seeking exceptional stability can choose the Fountaine Pajot Cumberland 47, a luxury motor catamaran with a seven-metre beam. Its spacious flybridge, bow and stern lounges, bright saloon and comfortable cabins make it particularly suited to leisurely day charters and longer cruises. Each yacht is accompanied by a professional skipper and experienced crew, allowing guests to enjoy the journey while navigation and onboard service are handled with care. Luxury as time, privacy and freedom Anyway, the most valuable part of a private boat experience is not simply the boat itself. It is the ability to avoid unnecessary waiting, move comfortably between destinations and enjoy the Mediterranean at a personal rhythm. With the right vessel, skipper and itinerary, it is possible to experience Capri, or Positano and Amalfi in a single day while still finding time to swim, relax and enjoy lunch by the water. Alternatively, guests can dedicate the entire day to one island, one hidden bay or one long afternoon at anchor. For travellers staying in Sorrento, a private boat tour to Capri and the Amalfi Coast is more than transportation. It is a private viewpoint over one of the world’s most celebrated coastlines - and perhaps the purest expression of Mediterranean luxury.

Peak Walk by Tissot at Glacier 3000 flies flag for altitude adventure (photo: Switzerland Tourism) It's the prosperous country whose bounty of riches isn't confined to Brünig Pass bankers' bunkers. Switzerland boasts a wealth of attractions way beyond clichéd cuckoo clocks and chocolates ... even the national flag is a big plus! Nowhere is the landlocked confederation's appeal more abundant than confectionery carton canton that is Vaud, best traversed aboard panoramic trains, commanding cable cars and hillside-hugging buses. That transport of delight - "a great plan, ingenious, a Swiss watch" to, expletives-free, sample Coen Brothers' Big Lebowski classic cinematic quote - reaches next level, literally, 3,000 metres above Heidi chalets, crystal lakes and verdant valleys, overshadowed by snow-capped crests. Let's discover together scenic beauty easier on the eye than Ostermundigen Bond girl Ursula Andress among geological topography more impactful than Basel-born court king Roger Federer's 143 mph serve. Stirring success of Le Chalet's customary cheese production (photo Gérald Bosshard Switzerland Tourism) Where to visit Peak Walk by Tissot at Glacier 3000 is the world's only suspension bridge linking twin peaks. Connecting Valais and Vaud Alps, views of Matterhorn to Mönch to Mont Blanc, Eiger and Jungfrau included, add Arendelle-esque spectacle across 107 metres long, 80 centimetres wide sky-high trek from View Point to Scex Rouge massif summit. The elevated excursion is further heightened by kilometre-long Alpine Coaster, highest rail toboggan run on the planet, 520 degree circles, ten curves, six waves and three jumps providing essential fix for altitude adrenaline junkies. And Restaurant Le 3 high cuisine includes brunch that thinks it's a banquet! (See our special article about the Bernina Express by clicking here) Quintessentially Swiss, Rougemont merits most beautiful village title (photo Switzerland Tourism) Not for nothing is Rougemont hailed "most beautiful village," one that in 1977 attracted teenage Diana Spencer to Institut Alpin Videmanette finishing school. Taking its name from rugged red rock outcrops that abound around, the settlement seduces with architectural heritage of rare authenticity, homes as old as 400 years displaying engravings and inscriptions telling of times past, emblematic monuments including Cluny monks' 16th century castle and 11th century Romanesque church, complete with stunning stained glass windows. In a region renowned for fromage, Maison de l'Etivaz is a big cheese. And a hard one, Protected Designation of Origin produce from flowery milk of 3,000 cows grazing nearby herb pastures, heated exclusively in wood-fired copper boilers. Cooperative for almost a century, capacity now accommodates 30,000 wheels, cave cellars curing process awakening powerful aromas not to be sniffed at, rebibes shavings stored in attic above. Impressive castles come no more imposing than Château d'Aigle (photo: Switzerland Tourism) Turn back time to tread Château d'Aigle floors once walked by Knights of the Eagle, Compey-Thorens nobles and Bernese governors, when hills were alive with the sound of muskets, as well as, recently as 1972, prison inmates within inhospitably sub-zero surrounds. Atop La Blonaire hill, protected from Grande-Eau River overflows, fortress has been partially destroyed and rebuilt several times, complemented most recently by Museum of Vines, Wine and Etiquette welcome addition. Any tourist worth their salt will want to visit Mines de Sel de Bex living museum. Board underground trains to discover Switzerland's oldest active salt mine, exploring labyrinth of passages among over 50 kilometres of tunnels that have witnessed extraction process since 1684, today annually yielding massive mountain of 30,000 tons of white gold ... fact-checked figure you don't need to take with a pinch of salt! Salt of the earth adventures await at Mines de Sel de Bex (photo Gabriel Monnet Switzerland Tourism) Cheese melts like summer snow thanks to Les Diablerets Rando-Raclette kit, combining Ormonts Valley hiking in "pleasures of the palate with discovery of magnificent landscapes" convivial style for gourmets on the go. Unique Tourist Office takeaway offers pastures picnic that features, with efficient fuel burner, flavoursome freshly baked bread and apéro sausage, paired with nearby brewery beers, blonde and amber crafty accompaniments to appease ale aficionados among us (we know who we are!) (Discover the joys of Switzerland's Christmas market here) Les Diablerets Rando-Raclette kit blends food and hiking (photo Nicolas Dulex Switzerland Tourism) Where to stay Heart and "house full of soul" of Rougemont, Hôtel de Commune is age-old accommodation dating back to 1833. Rustic charm meets comforting cuisine, courtesy chef Michaël Burri, whose culinary skills were inherited from grandmother Denise, epicurean expertise previously enjoyed by Montreux Jazz Festival artists, today served in satisfying shape of dishes as diverse as award-winning pâté en croûte and garlic parsley baked snails to chestnut purée vermicelli and 63 per cent chocolate indulgence. Hôtel de Commune's quality cuisine comes courtesy of chef Michaël Burri (photo Hôtel de Commune) He says: "I look forward to welcoming you to this beautiful region and sharing my childhood memories with you." Warm welcome, indeed. "Just like at home, and even better" mission statement rings true as upland slopes' bovine bells at Hotel Du Pillon, whose expansive south-facing terrace stands proud of place above Les Bovets hamlet. Mine hosts with most are Francis and Carla, he having sold his Paris art gallery to buy the property almost two decades ago, she faithfully accompanied by midnight blue cat Akari - Japanese word for "light" - their fine food hospitality similarly shining through to top Gault et Millau most charming historic hotels list. Snowscape paintings and antiquarian artefacts abound, not least automaton bear that turns guests' heads as easily as its own. (Read our special post abiout the historic hotels of Switzerland here) Bucolic charm and warm welcome await guests at Hotel Du Pillon (photo: Switzerland Tourism) Where to dine (and wine!) Le Chalet restaurant and cheese demonstration boasts delicacies with accents local as Pays-d’Enhaut families, site success soaring like almost 400 flights that this year graced Château-d'Oex International Balloon Festival, lot of hot air watched by 45,000-plus visitors. Proud Produits Authentiques ambassador, traditional plates are awash with cow, goat and sheep milk, up to 200 litres of kindling-fuelled liquid transformed before visitors' eyes into 20-kilo Bio block, matured for six months before consumption, upper floor store also stocked with hundred inviting vintage wines. Fond of fondue or fan of grate rösti, visit Café du Cerf, reportedly popular with young woman who would, three years later, meet then Prince Charles before People's Princess 1981 right royal wedding. You too can feast like king or queen from Michelin Guide included menu, featuring trademark malakoff fried cheese balls alongside various venison dishes underscoring eatery's "deer" title, before or after savouring Videmanette vistas to di(n)e for from Rougemont terraced tables. Follow future royal's example by enjoying Café du Cerf fare (photo Hanna Büker Switzerland Tourism) Belying "drop of water" name, poolside Restaurant la Goutte d'Eau bar lounge serves expansive selection of wines to accompany eclectic fare, whose recipe for success includes signature succulent steaks. Aigle eagle-eyed customers can choose delicious dishes ranging from oil-soaked focaccia flatbread to tagliolini ribbon pasta to oven-baked pizzas, all served with smiles from ever attentive staff, professional and personable in equally engaging measure. Devil is in detail at Les Diablerets outskirts establishment La Potinière, where freshly snagged fish vie for gastronomists' attention with carnivores' choice of meats and, suitable for vegetarians, creamy cauliflower risotto. Masterchef top 100 finalist, Italian-born chef Giorgio Galati learned Mediterranean methods from his mother, parking up restored 1948 Citroën HY famous food truck in Geneva to become director here and adjoining La Pote nightclub, whose disco inferno burns customers' calorific content. Grape expectations are exceeded throughout immersive experience at Cave Alain Emery, Aigle cellar tour and tasting session striking just the right balance, reflecting blended harmony of alcohol, acids, sugars and tannins of Vinatura-labelled biodiverse sustainable wines. Good-natured narrative embodying five generations of traditions and terroir comes from genial guide, who heard it on the grapevine, equally engaging to oenophiles and those of us who don't know Gamay from Grand Cru (again, we know who we are!) Autumnal Alpine adventures confirm Switzerland Tourism chiefs' "October's ripe for the picking" invitation but, paraphrasing Robert Bolt's historical play, this picture postcard paradise is very much a land for all seasons. UK visitors feel on top of the world at soaring Scex Rouge summit (photo: Switzerland Tourism) Fast flights Swiss International Air Lines connects UK with Switzerland, offering more than 160 weekly direct flights within two hours from Manchester, London Heathrow, London City, Birmingham and Edinburgh to Zurich or Geneva. One-way fares start from £76 to Zurich, £54 to Geneva, including all taxes, fees and surcharges, one checked case weighing up to 23kg and additional piece of hand luggage. SWISS will also transport free your first set of ski or snowboard equipment and boots, as well as standard free baggage allowance, subject to availability (excluding hand luggage only fares). Visit swiss.com site. Pass class Travel Switzerland’s Swiss Travel Pass offers international visitors unlimited travel on consecutive days across rail, bus and boat networks plus scenic routes (seat reservation fees apply) as well as local trams and buses in as many as 90 towns and cities, also including Swiss Museum Pass, granting free entry to 500 museums and exhibitions. Prices start from £254 for three-day second class ticket. Visit swisstravelpass.com site. Greener land Switzerland Tourism follows increasingly sustainable path, national initiative Swisstainable committed to sustainable development, making it easier for UK visitors to travel mindfully. Over 2,500 tourism businesses already accredited, the scheme splits accreditation labels into committed, engaged and leading categories, staff flight emissions currently cut by combination of Sustainable Aviation Fuel and carbon offset projects. Visit https://co2.myclimate.org/ site. switzerland.com www.vaud.chwww.alpesvaudoises.chpays-denhaut.ch Extra, Extra! Holiday Extras is market leader in UK airport parking, hotels, lounges and transfers. Booking airport hotels means travellers can enjoy more holiday with less hassle, resting easy without having to travel overnight for early flights. One night at Manchester Airport TRIBE is available from £105.00 for two adults. Flextras service allowing customers to cancel or amend without charge. For more information and to book visit HolidayExtras.com or call 0800 3165678.

Trapani, in Sicily Europe may be known for its busy capitals and famous museums, but some of its most unique experiences are found outside the major cities. Regional trains, ferries and local buses lead to volcanic slopes, Alpine lakes and Atlantic coastlines where the day is shaped by walking, rowing or exploring by road instead of moving between indoor attractions. You do not need to join a large tour or plan every hour in advance. A manageable route, suitable equipment and enough flexibility for changing weather can take you a long way. The five destinations below are suited to independent travellers who want to spend more time outdoors, experience the landscape at their own pace and return with stories that go beyond the standard city break. Hiking Volcanic Trails and Ancient Temples in Sicily, Italy Walking on Mount Etna takes you across black lava fields, old craters and sections of forest that reveal how dramatically the landscape has changed. Lower trails can be explored independently, but access to higher areas depends on volcanic activity, weather and current safety rules. Check the latest guidance before setting out and use a qualified guide where required. Sturdy footwear and layers are essential, as conditions can be much cooler and windier than they are on the coast. On Sicily’s southern side, the Valley of the Temples provides a very different walking experience. Its principal Doric temples were built mainly during the fifth century BCE and stand along an exposed ridge outside modern Agrigento. The archaeological park covers a large area with limited shade, so in summer, early starts and sun protection are advised. Etna and Agrigento are in different parts of the island, making a split stay more practical than attempting both as short excursions from one base. If you’re considering villas with exclusive private pools, research bases that are ideally split for easier access to the island as a whole. Mount Etna looms above Giardina Naxos in Sicily Rowing to the Island Church in Bled, Slovenia Getting onto the water is one of the best ways to experience Lake Bled. You can take a traditional pletna, rowed by a trained pletnar, or hire a wooden rowing boat and make the journey to the island yourself. From the landing, 99 stone steps lead to the Church of the Mother of God on the Lake, where visitors can ring the wishing bell. Looking back from the island gives you a clear view of the castle above the shore and the mountains surrounding the lake. If you still have energy after rowing, follow the marked trail from the Zaka area to Ojstrica. The climb takes around 20 minutes, but it is short, steep and uneven. Vintgar Gorge works well as a separate outing, with paths and boardwalks following the Radovna River between wooded rock walls. Access arrangements and transport can change with the season, so check the current route and shuttle information before setting out. Walking the Cliffs of Moher Along Ireland's Atlantic Coast Walking above the Cliffs of Moher gives you a close view of County Clare’s limestone coast, with the Atlantic below and the Aran Islands visible when the weather is clear. The cliffs reach their highest point near O’Brien’s Tower, rising more than 200 metres above the sea. Routes extend from the visitor area towards Doolin and Liscannor, but erosion and maintenance can affect access. Check the official trail information before setting out, follow all barriers and signs, and stay well back from the cliff edge. When planning a one-week trip to Ireland, it is worth allowing County Clare more than a quick stop between Galway and Kerry. An extra night gives you a better chance of finding suitable walking weather and leaves time to explore Doolin or another part of the Burren. Bring waterproof layers and footwear with reliable grip, even if the morning looks clear. After the walk, Doolin’s pubs provide a warm place for dinner, with traditional music sessions held on selected evenings. Crossing Wooden Walkways Over Turquoise Lakes in Plitvice, Croatia At Plitvice Lakes, wooden walkways and marked paths pass beside clear water, forest and a series of waterfalls connecting 16 named lakes. The Upper Lakes sit within a more wooded landscape with smaller cascades, while the Lower Lakes lie within a limestone canyon and lead towards the Great Waterfall. Several routes also include an electric boat across Lake Kozjak or a journey on the park’s panoramic vehicle, so check the distance and estimated walking time before choosing one. An early entry time can make the paths easier to navigate, but it does not guarantee an empty boardwalk. Tickets are limited by entrance and time slot, making it sensible to book through the official park website before arriving. Wear shoes with reliable grip because wooden sections can become wet, remain on the marked paths and remember that swimming is not permitted. Access to particular routes can depend on weather and seasonal conditions, so check the park’s current information before your visit. Skogafoss waterfall, Iceland Watching Icebergs Drift Toward Diamond Beach in Iceland At Jökulsárlón, pieces of ice break away from Breiðamerkurjökull and drift across the glacier lagoon before passing through a short channel towards the Atlantic. Some are then carried back onto Fellsfjara, better known as Diamond Beach, where they rest against the black sand. Their size, colour and number change with the tide and weather, so the shoreline looks different from one visit to the next. Allow time to walk beside the lagoon before continuing to the beach using the designated paths and parking areas. Seals live around Jökulsárlón and may appear among the ice, although sightings are never guaranteed. On the beach, stay well back from the surf and avoid climbing onto ice blocks, which can move when waves reach them. Warm waterproof layers are useful even in summer, and road and weather conditions should be checked before travelling through southeast Iceland. Which European adventure calls you first? Choosing the right destination begins with deciding how you want to spend your days. Sicily lets you divide the trip between volcanic trails and ancient sites, while Bled gives you time on the water and short, steep climbs. County Clare suits longer coastal walks in changeable weather, Plitvice has marked routes around lakes and through forest, and southeast Iceland can be explored through short walks as part of a road trip. Before booking, compare seasonal access, transport and the equipment each activity requires. Leave some flexibility for weather, especially around Etna, the Cliffs of Moher and Iceland’s south coast. Travelling independently gives you control over the pace, but it also means following local guidance, changing plans when conditions require it and joining a qualified guide where necessary. Start with the experience that excites you most, then build the rest of the trip around it. View from inside one of Iceland's famous waterfalls

Saying farewell to the Scillonian III So, the dear old Scillonian III is embarking upon her final sailings between Penzance and the Isles of Scilly – a wonderful ship in so many ways. She has carried more than five million passengers during almost half a century of service, and I count myself among their number. Not always enthusiastically, I hasten to add. I’m one of those people who loves the sea and the idea of sailing on the big broad briny, but I’ve yet to develop a full set of sea legs. And that can count against the brave-but-innocent passenger who finds themselves heading out into the Atlantic past Land’s End. Those oceanic swells; that comparatively shallow, flat-bottomed hull; the two to three hours of a unique kind of rolling, yawing motion… No, the Scillonian III is a fine ship and I have hugely enjoyed being aboard her in fine weather. But I’ve also learned first-hand why she was given her rather rude – but, in my opinion, inaccurate – nickname. See our special page on Cornwall and the Isles of Scilly here Penzance Helicopters - how I crossed to the isles this week Why was the Scillonian III called the “Vomit Comet”? Inaccurate? Well, I am a bit of a pedant, especially when feeling sick, so while I understand the journalistic delights of “Vomit Comet”, the latter part of the name leaves me bewildered. Comets roar rapidly through space. The Scillonian III never roared rapidly anywhere. Still, roll on Scillonian IV, which is due to enter service in March 2027 with a faster, more comfortable crossing and fin stabilisers designed to reduce the motion of the ship. The new vessel will also carry more passengers – up to 600 – and is intended to provide a new era of travel between Penzance and the Isles of Scilly. Of course, no ship is immune to the moods of the Atlantic. But anything that adds up to a faster, smoother journey can only be a good thing. And I say that because there is something very special about reaching an island – or a group of islands – by boat rather than by air. Check out our post of 6 of the Best Walks in Scilly Eastern Isles and St Martins, Isles of Scilly - as seen from the helicopter My many years travelling to the Isles of Scilly Visiting the Isles of Scilly has been part of my job since I began working for this newspaper group back in 1999, so I’ve been a more regular visitor to the archipelago than most. At one time I used to visit every few weeks. That was partly because the late Clive Mumford, who was for many years the archipelago’s newsagent – and who had himself worked for this paper in Plymouth – used to tell me that the Western Morning News was the best-selling newspaper in the islands. In the interests of getting more trips to Scilly, I duly took this information to the then editor, arguing that we needed to serve the islanders better. Much to my delight, he agreed. But because of time restraints – and the aforementioned mal-de-mer – I almost always took the plane or the helicopter. I have lost count of the times I’ve peered out of a small aircraft window in a storm, bumping around at 5,000 feet above a pitching, rolling sea, watching the Scillonian heaving up and down far below like a cork in a tempest. My 20-minute flights may have been somewhat alarming at times, but often I’ve whispered to myself: “I wouldn’t be down there on that boat for all the tea in China.” Travel writer Martin Hesp leads a group walk in the Isles of Scilly When the weather forces you onto the Scillonian Once or twice I was caught out. Scilly is the only place on Earth – or at least the only one I know – where you can have a gale blowing in a thick fog. I don’t know how true it is, but it’s always said that if you cannot see the top of the St Mary’s television and radio mast for cloud, then the flights have to stop. Which means you’re going home by boat. Which, in turn, means a quick trip to the pharmacy in Hugh Town for seasickness pills. The good news is that they work. Twice I’ve had to do this and both times I managed to reach Penzance without the nausea of seasickness overtaking me. That might also have something to do with the fact that, when the ship sails east, it tends to be following the swells rather than smashing into them. A beach on the isle of Bryher Why the Isles of Scilly are among Britain's best places for walking Anyway, the reason I’m writing about all this is that I’ve been out in the islands again this week. I was invited to Tresco to meet the couple who have taken over the island farm – which must be one of the most unique and unusual agricultural holdings in the UK – and we will be dedicating another post to that visit. All of which reminded me of an undeniable truth: There is simply no finer walking in Britain than in the Isles of Scilly. Walkers on Porthmellon Beach, St Marys Floating out in the Atlantic, this granite archipelago offers something almost impossible to find on the mainland – an entire world untrammelled by roaring traffic, where the air feels as pure as anywhere in Europe and where the boom of Atlantic surf is ever present. Best of all, on a small island navigation is foolproof. Keep the briny on one side and you will eventually end up right back where you started – preferably within sight of a welcoming hostelry. And so, as we bid farewell to the old ship and look ahead to a new era of island travel, here are six of my favourite walks in the Isles of Scilly. The landing quay on St Agnes, Isles of Scilly 1. St Agnes: Granite Monsters and the Edge of the World St Agnes greets you at Porth Conger quay with a nod that seems to say: “Right, you’ve done the hard bit getting here – now see what I have to offer.” Pass the Turk’s Head pub – saving that pint for the finish – and drop down to the sandbar connecting St Agnes to its uninhabited twin, Gugh. If the tide is out, cross over to inspect Obadiah’s Barrow and the nine-foot Old Man of Gugh standing stone, keeping a wary eye on the rising water. Back on St Agnes, weave south to Beady Pool, where a 17th-century wreck spilled thousands of trade beads into the granite grit. I’ve written more about this extraordinary place in my article [Beady Pool, St Agnes: The Sinister History of Scilly’s Hidden Treasure]. Continue around storm-lashed Horse Point to reach St Warna’s Cove. Heading north along the western flank, you’ll encounter wind-sculpted granite tors such as the Nag’s Head, the curious Troy Town Maze, laid out by a lighthouse keeper in 1729, and the old lifeboat slip at Periglis. Sculpted rocks on St Agnes From here, cut inland past the lighthouse and one of Britain’s smallest schools before heading back towards the quay – and that well-earned pint. Read my full guide to the Six Best Walks in the Isles of Scilly. 2. St Mary's Northern Circular: Ancient Tombs and Oceanic Pines St Mary’s boasts a grand 12-mile outer circuit, but this northern loop gives the fitter day visitor a chance to enjoy much of the main island – complete with white-sand beaches, prehistoric monuments and maritime woods – in a single afternoon. Starting from Hugh Town, skirt past Town Beach and Porthmellon, home to the island’s gig racing boats. Pass Juliet’s Garden, which has some of the best views from any café-restaurant I know, and pick up the northern coast path towards Halangy Down. Here, the preserved ruins of an Iron Age village sit beneath the Stone Age chamber tomb of Bant’s Carn. St Mary's harbour Rounding the northern cape, the track dips through dark, sheltering Scotch pines above Bar Point, offering sweeping panoramas across the roadstead to Tresco and St Martin’s. Farther along at Helvear Down you pass the twin chambered tombs of Innisidgen, before turning inland at Pelistry Bay and heading through the lush, hidden shelter of Holy Vale. From there it is a pleasant return to Hugh Town. 3. Tresco: Sub-Tropical Splendour and Civil War Forts Tresco often feels less like an English island and more like a tropical paradise that somehow drifted north into the Atlantic. Stepping off the boat at Carn Near, head north past Abbey Pool, keeping an eye out for the old ramparts at Blockhouse Point overlooking Old Grimsby. Tresco Abbey and its gardens Skirting the wild northern shoreline, you reach Cromwell’s Castle, an imposing Roundhead fortress built in 1651 right on the water’s edge to guard the channel between Tresco and Bryher. Above it loom the high ruins of King Charles’ Castle. After roaming the heather downs of the far north, loop back along the western shore towards New Grimsby, finishing with a slow meander through the extraordinary, world-famous paths of the Tresco Abbey Garden. Tresco is one of those places I never tire of visiting. I’ve written before about its remarkable subtropical garden and its extraordinary ability to produce flowers even in the depths of winter. Read my article about the famous Tresco Flower Count. Cromwell's Castle, Tresco, with Bryher in the background 4. St Martin’s: Caribbean Sands and the Daymark Few islands in Europe can rival the coastline of St Martin’s. The sand here is so fine and blindingly white that, in centuries past, it was dried and exported to blot the ink on scribes’ parchment. I’ve written more about these remarkable beaches in [Cornwall’s Secret Seasides: Scilly’s St Martin’s Has Some of the Best]. A tripper boat pulled up on the white sands of St Martins Setting off from Higher Town Quay, follow the dune paths past Little Arthur Farm and English Island Point as the landscape shifts from soft shores to rugged headlands. Ahead stands the Daymark – a 45-foot red-and-white beacon built in 1683. Strike west along the wild northern coast above Bread and Cheese Cove towards the great sweeping arc of Great Bay. Then cross the island’s central spine and descend towards Lower Town, where the Seven Stones pub provides the perfect mid-hike restorative. St Martin’s is one of those places where the walking can feel almost absurdly exotic. On a good summer day, you could be forgiven for thinking you’ve somehow wandered into the Caribbean. The 'main road' on St Martins 5. Bryher: Atlantic Crag Meets Sheltered Waters Bryher is an island of magnificent contrasts. On its eastern shore, sheltered turquoise waters lap quietly against shell sand. On its western flank, the full weight of the Atlantic hammers into granite. Walking clockwise from Church Quay, pass Veronica Farm towards Rushy Bay, one of the loveliest bathing spots in the islands. Rounding Heathy Hill, the path skirts Great Porth and the reed beds of Great Pool before marching straight into the wild northern realm of Hell Bay. Bryher and Church Quay, Here, even on gentle summer afternoons, the ocean swell thunders into the rocky chasm with spectacular venom. Round the wave-lashed heights of Shipmanhead Down before turning south past the Fraggle Rock pub for the stroll back to the boat. Bryher is one of my favourite Scilly islands, and I’ve written at length about why in [Brilliant Isle of Bryher]. There is something about the place that manages to combine the wildness of the Atlantic with the intimacy of island life better than almost anywhere else. Wild seas at Hell Bay, Bryher 6. St Mary's Garrison and South-West Cape: Bastions and Big Seas For those short on time – or those stepping off the Scillonian and needing a quick walk to rediscover their land legs – this roughly hour-long circuit delivers maximum island atmosphere with minimum fuss. Starting in Hugh Town, pass through the imposing stone arch of The Garrison. Porthcressa Beach, St Marys The perimeter path along the Elizabethan curtain walls and Civil War gun batteries offers tremendous views over the harbour and the off-islands. After completing the fort circuit, drop down into the sheltered curve of Porthcressa Beach and pick up the coast path climbing out towards Peninnis Head. This storm-carved headland is famed for its massive granite sculptures, including Pulpit Rock, and its lonely lighthouse. The track then loops gently back around Old Town Bay to Hugh Town. I’ve written a complete guide to this shorter walk here: St Mary’s Garrison Walk: A Historic Coastal Promenade It is one of the walks I would recommend most strongly to anyone who has only a few hours on St Mary’s. The Garrison walk coast in winter Farewell, Scillonian III – and roll on Scillonian IV And so the old ship prepares to bow out. There will undoubtedly be people who are delighted to see the back of the Scillonian III. Some of them will probably be people who have spent two hours hanging over her railings while contemplating the meaning of life. But for all the jokes about seasickness, the Scillonian III has been an extraordinary part of life in the Isles of Scilly. For almost half a century she has carried islanders, visitors, workers, supplies, newspapers and countless memories across those 28 miles of Atlantic. I have been one of those passengers . Sometimes I’ve loved every minute of it. Sometimes I have hated it. But I have never forgotten the extraordinary feeling of seeing the islands rise out of the Atlantic ahead of me. That is the magic of Scilly. And while I shall miss the old ship, I’m looking forward to seeing what comes next. Scillonian IV is due to enter service in March 2027, bringing a new chapter to the journey between Penzance and the Isles of Scilly. Let’s just hope she’s a little kinder to those of us who still haven’t quite mastered our sea legs. Abbey Gardens, Tresco

Walks writer Martin Hesp leads a hike on St Mary's, Isles of Scilly There is no finer walking in Britain than in the Isles of Scilly. Floating 28 miles off the tip of Cornwall, this granite archipelago offers something almost impossible to find elsewhere: an entire world untamed by heavy traffic, where the air is as clean as any in Europe, and where the rhythmic crash of big green Atlantic waves is never more than a short stroll away. Whether you are popping over on a day return or settling in for a fortnight, each of the five inhabited islands—plus the mystical off-isle of Gugh—boasts a coastal path that begs to be hiked. On a small island, you can’t get lost: keep the sea on one side, and you will eventually end up back where you started, preferably within sight of a welcoming pub. 🏨 Planning a walking holiday in the Isles of Scilly? Accommodation is limited and fills up surprisingly quickly, especially from spring onwards. Check what's available before you travel. Here is my curated guide to the six absolute best walks across the Scillonian archipelago. 1. St Agnes: Granite Monsters, Shipwrecks, and the Edge of the World St Agnes landing place on a winter's day Distance: ~4 miles (plus optional loop on Gugh) Terrain: Fine coastal path, rocky headlands, and quiet lanes. St Agnes has a way of greeting you at Porth Conger quay with a gentle nod that says: "Right, you’ve done the difficult bit getting here—now see all I have to offer." From the quay, head up past the Turk’s Head pub—saving that pint for the finish line—and drop down to the dramatic sandbar connecting St Agnes to its uninhabited twin, Gugh. If the tide is out, cross over to explore Obadiah’s Barrow and the nine-foot Old Man of Gugh standing stone. Just keep an eye on the water; getting cut off by the tide is an amateur mistake, though local legend insists it happens. Back on St Agnes, weave south along the shore to Beady Pool, where a 17th-century wreck spilled thousands of trade beads into the granite grit. Round the southern cape past Horse Point—a magnificent, storm-lashed corner of heaven—to reach St Warna’s Cove, named for the patron saint of shipwrecks who allegedly arrived here from Ireland in a wicker coracle. Heading north along the west coast, you’ll encounter wind-sculpted granite tors like the Nag’s Head (looking like a cross between a horse and an angel), the famous Troy Town Maze laid out by a bored lighthouse keeper in 1729, and the old lifeboat house in Periglis Cove. From here, cut inland past the grand old lighthouse and Britain's smallest school before coasting down to the quay for that well-earned pint. You can read the full story about Beady Pool on St Agnes here Granite rock formations on St Agnes, 2. St Mary’s Northern Circular: Ancient Tombs and Oceanic Pines Distance: ~6 miles Terrain: Undulating coastal footpaths, sandy tracks, and quiet interior lanes. While St Mary’s boasts a grand 12-mile outer circuit, this northern loop is the absolute jewel of the island. It gathers everything Scillonian into a single afternoon: white sand beaches, prehistoric monuments, and windswept maritime pine forests. IF YOU ARE ENJOYING THIS POST CHECK OUT OUR CORNWALL & SCILLIES PAGE The northern tip of St Mary's Starting in Hugh Town, head past Town Beach and down into Porthmellon, where the island’s famous gig racing boats are housed. Pass the panoramic terraces of Juliet’s Garden and pick up the northern coast path towards Halangy Down. Here, the remarkably preserved ruins of an Iron Age village rest beneath Bant’s Carn, a monumental Stone Age chamber tomb. St Mary's Harbour Rounding the northern cape, the path dips into a sublime woodland of dark Scotch pines above Bar Point, offering sweeping views across the roadstead to Tresco and St Martin’s. Farther along at Helvear Down, you’ll pass the twin chambered tombs of Innisidgen before reaching the quiet crescent of Watermill Cove. After taking in the lonely beauty of Pelistry Bay, turn inland up Pelistry Lane, weaving through the lush shelter of Holy Vale and Rocky Hill to complete a smooth return circuit back to Hugh Town. Martin Hesp leads walkers in the Scilly Walks Festival on St Marys 3. Tresco: Sub-Tropical Gardens and Civil War Castles Distance: ~6 miles Terrain: Coastal paths, grassy downs, and garden trails. Tresco often feels less like an English island and more like a tropical paradise that drifted north into the Atlantic. Thanks to Augustus Smith—the Victorian reformer who leased the island in 1834—Tresco is home to the world-famous Abbey Gardens, where exotic flora flourishes under the Gulf Stream. Read about the amazing Tresco annual flower count here Bench for walkers on the east coast of Tresco Stepping off the boat at Carn Near, track north past Abbey Pool, keeping an eye out for the ruinous ramparts at Blockhouse Point. These fortifications overlook Old Grimsby and offer vast across-water views towards St Martin's. New Grimsby, the main harbour on Tresco Further north, the path skirts the wild shoreline to Cromwell’s Castle, an imposing Roundhead fortress built in 1651 to guard the narrow passage between Tresco and Bryher. Above it stand the high ruins of King Charles’ Castle. After exploring the wild heather downs of the far north, loop back along the western shore towards New Grimsby, finishing with a slow meander through the dreamy, sub-tropical paths of the Abbey Gardens. The Abbey on Tresco 4. St Martin’s: Caribbean Sands and the Scarlet Daymark Distance: ~5 miles Terrain: Soft dune paths, sandy beaches, and open granite downs. Few islands in Europe can compete with the pure, dazzling brilliance of St Martin’s coastlines. The sand here is so exceptionally fine and white that in centuries past it was gathered up and exported to dry the ink on scribes' parchment. If you want to explore St Martin's properly, I've written more about the island's extraordinary white-sand beaches here: St Martins and the Daymark Starting from Higher Town Quay, follow the dune-lined path past Little Arthur Farm and curve around the blindingly white crescent of English Island Point. The landscape quickly shifts from soft shorelines to rugged, heather-clad headlands as you approach the Daymark—a striking 45-foot red-and-white striped beacon built in 1683. St Martin's Higher Town From the beacon, strike west along the wild northern coast above Bread and Cheese Cove and Wine Cove until you hit the great sweeping arch of Great Bay. Leaving the northern coast, cross south towards the island's central ridge lane. This elevated track offers views across the entire archipelago as you descend towards Lower Town, where a stop at the Seven Stones pub provides the perfect vantage point before doubling back along the sheltered southern shore. White sand beach on St Martin's 5. Bryher: Wild Atlantic Crag Meets Sub-Tropical Calm Distance: ~4.5 miles Terrain: Rugged coastal tracks, sandy coves, and short, steep hill climbs. Bryher is an island of fierce, dramatic contrasts. On its eastern shore, sheltered waters lap gently against quiet beaches; on its western flank, the full, unbridled power of the Atlantic hammers against jagged granite cliffs. See our post dedicated to the island of Bryher here Sandy beach near Fraggle Rock pub Heading clockwise from the landing quay, pass Veronica Farm towards the southern tip at Rushy Bay, one of the most picturesque bathing spots in the islands. Rounding Heathy Hill, the path turns north along Great Porth, passing the reed-beds of Great Pool—a haven for migratory birdwatchers. Low tide on Bryher, looking across towards Tresco Take the brief detour up Gweal Hill for a panorama across the uninhabited off-isles, before marching into the wild northern realm of Hell Bay. Here, even on gentle summer days, the ocean swell thunders into the rocky chasm with spectacular force. Round the wave-beaten headland of Shipmanhead Down before turning south, passing the Fraggle Rock pub as you return to Church Quay. The wild west side of Bryher 6. St Mary’s Garrison & South-West Cape: Bastions and Big Ocean Views Distance: ~3.5 miles Terrain: Well-paved military paths, gentle gradients, and grassy headlands. For those short on time or stepping off the Scillonian ferry for a day trip, this short circuit packed into St Mary’s south-western corner delivers maximum Scillonian charm with minimal fuss. You can read all about the full walk on St Marys here St Mary's harbour with the Garrison walks behind Starting right in the heart of Hugh Town, pass through the imposing 16th-century stone archway of The Garrison. The perimeter walk around this massive fortification takes you along stone curtain walls and gun batteries that have stood guard over the harbour since the days of Elizabeth I and the English Civil War. View from The Garrison, St Mary's on a winter's evening After completing the Garrison circuit, drop down into the sheltered sands of Porthcressa Beach. Pick up the coastal path as it climbs out of the bay and tracks around the high granite headland towards Peninnis Head. This southern tip of St Mary’s is famous for its massive, weather-worn granite formations—including the Pulpit Rock—and its distinctive metal lighthouse. From Peninnis, the track turns gently back towards town, offering fine views over Old Town Bay before delivering you neatly back to the harbour. Capture stunning aerial photos through drone technology with one of UK's top aerial services photography providers, delivering professional, high-quality images for property, construction, events, landscapes, and businesses. Porthmellon Sands, close to Hugh Town, Frequently Asked Questions What is the best island for walking in the Isles of Scilly? Each island has its own character. St Mary's offers the greatest variety of routes and historic sites, Tresco combines coastal walks with its famous Abbey Garden, Bryher is wonderfully wild, St Martin's has spectacular white-sand beaches, and St Agnes feels delightfully remote. There really isn't a bad choice. How long do you need to explore the Isles of Scilly on foot? A long weekend allows you to discover St Mary's and perhaps one or two of the off-islands. For walkers, however, five to seven days is ideal, giving you enough time to enjoy each island at a relaxed pace and travel between them by boat. Are the walks in the Isles of Scilly difficult? Most walks are moderate rather than strenuous. The islands have no mountains, but the coastal paths can be uneven in places, with occasional short climbs over granite headlands. Good walking shoes are recommended. When is the best time to visit the Isles of Scilly? Late spring and early summer are particularly beautiful, with wildflowers in bloom and generally mild weather. September is another excellent month, when the sea is warm, visitor numbers are lower and the islands enjoy some of their finest sunshine. Can you visit all the Isles of Scilly in one trip? Yes. Regular inter-island boats connect the five inhabited islands during the season, making it easy to explore St Mary's, Tresco, Bryher, St Martin's and St Agnes over several days. Do you need to book accommodation in advance? Absolutely. Accommodation in the Isles of Scilly is limited and extremely popular, especially from May to September. Booking well in advance is highly recommended if you're planning a walking holiday. Planning Your Stay: A quick word of advice—the Isles of Scilly have very limited accommodation, and iconic spots sell out many months in advance. While a few places can be booked on platforms like [Booking.com], many local cottages and B&Bs are booked directly through island agencies. If you're planning a walking trip, book your stay as early as possible.

Discover the Rich and Diverse Flavours of Sri Lankan Cuisine Of course, no trip to Sri Lanka can avoid a mention of the amazing food on offer. It is as tasty as it is healthy, as exotic as it is diverse. Traditional Food Is One of the Best Reasons to Visit Sri Lanka I've always believed that if you want to understand a country properly, start by sitting down at somebody's table. Sri Lanka proved that point time and again. Every meal seemed to reveal another small part of the island's character. Coconut appeared in dozens of different guises, spices were used with remarkable confidence and fresh seafood often arrived on the plate only hours after leaving the ocean. One thing that struck me was the regional variation. The food changed noticeably as I travelled, reflecting local ingredients and traditions that have evolved over centuries. The island's cuisine has been shaped by influences from India, Arabia, Portugal, the Netherlands and Britain, yet it has retained a distinctive identity of its own. That blend of history and local tradition is one reason Sri Lankan food has become increasingly recognised internationally, while still remaining wonderfully authentic in the places where it is cooked every day. Planning a Food Tour of Sri Lanka One of the delights of travelling around Sri Lanka is that every region has its own distinctive cooking. Coastal towns are famous for freshly landed seafood, the hill country offers rich curries and fragrant spices, while bustling markets overflow with tropical fruit and colourful street food. Where you stay can shape your culinary experience just as much as the attractions you visit. Why Sri Lankan Food Is Healthier Than You Might Expect The food is often characterised as being more healthy than the cuisine to be found across the breadth of its giant neighbour India, mainly because they do not use anywhere near so much in the way of clarified butter. The food of Sri Lanka is characterised by a blend of flavours, often incorporating a range of spices, coconut, and rice and coconut oil is often used instead of ghee. A Culinary Crossroads: Sri Lanka’s Global Food Influences Added to this, the island nation's historical position along trade routes has introduced various culinary influences, including those from India, the Netherlands, Portugal, and Malaysia. The Elusive Delicacy: Wild Prawns of Northern Sri Lanka Having said that I love Sri Lankan food, I do have one regret. And that is, we were unable to find a fresh dish using the truly amazing wild prawns which are caught around the northern half of the island. For those of you who don’t know it, the flat northern coasts are punctuated by wide bays and lagoons with smaller islands often connected by causeways. Read another of our international food guides - about the cuisine of Vienna here These very rich shallow waters lend themselves to wild populations of shrimp or prawn - and the resultant catch is said to be the best in the world when it comes to flavour and quality. Which would not surprise me as the prawns turn a deep red when cooked. However, because this is a very hot part of the world where refrigeration is in short supply, the catch is often fast dried in the sun and then used accordingly. I would very much love to have tried a fresh-caught prawn dish - or even better, cooked one myself using a bowlful of prawns or shrimp bought from one of the many roadside fisherfolk you see selling their wares along the causeways. The Central Role of Rice and Curry in Sri Lankan Meals Rice, of course, forms the central component of the large majority of Sri Lankan meals. A common presentation is "rice and curry," where steamed or boiled rice is served with several accompanying curries. These typically include a protein, such as fish, chicken, or occasionally goat or lamb, alongside various vegetable or lentil curries. Dhal, a spiced lentil preparation, is frequently included. Accompanying elements like pickled fruits or vegetables, chutneys, and sambals are also common. Sambals are often pastes of ground ingredients, such as coconut mixed with chilli peppers and lime juice. Key Ingredients: Coconut, Spices and Local Herbs Coconut is a prevalent ingredient, utilised in various forms such as milk, oil, and grated flesh. Spices like cinnamon, cardamom, cloves, cumin, coriander, and fenugreek are frequently used. Local herbs such as pandan leaves and curry leaves contribute to the flavour profiles of dishes. Dried fish is also used in some preparations, adding a distinct savoury note - and you see a lot of it being sold in markets and shops around coastal town such as Jaffna. Beyond the Basics: Exploring Unique Sri Lankan Dishes Beyond rice and curry, there are many other preparations which you’ll often see, both in towns and villages and also in luxury hotels. A typical fish market in Sri Lanka Hoppers, which are bowl-shaped pancakes made from fermented rice flour and coconut milk, are often consumed for breakfast or dinner, sometimes with an egg cooked inside. String hoppers, made from rice flour pressed into noodle-like strands and steamed, are another common staple. Kottu, a street food, involves chopped roti bread stir-fried with vegetables, eggs, and optional meat or cheese. Lamprais, a dish with Dutch Burgher origins, features rice, meat curry, and accompaniments, all wrapped in a banana leaf and baked. Regional Food Traditions Across Sri Lanka Naturally many regional variations exist. For instance, the southern coastal areas are noted for fish dishes and the use of goraka, a fruit that imparts a sour taste. The northern regions, with a significant Tamil population, feature dishes like pittu (steamed cylinders of ground rice and coconut) and dosai (savoury crepes). The central hill country, known for tea plantations, often incorporates more locally grown fruits and vegetables and may use fewer spices and less coconut compared to other areas. Freshness and Traditional Cooking Methods Cooking methods generally include boiling, steaming, frying, and roasting. Many preparations involve simmering ingredients with spice blends and coconut milk to develop depth of flavour. The focus on fresh, locally sourced ingredients is a consistent aspect of the food culture. Every Meal Became Part of the Adventure One of the pleasures of travelling is that you can often understand a country long before you visit its museums simply by sitting down to eat. Sri Lanka was one of those places where every meal seemed to tell another chapter of the island's remarkable story. Breakfast might begin with delicate string hoppers and coconut sambol. Lunch could be a generous helping of rice and curry served with half a dozen colourful side dishes, each bringing its own balance of spice, sweetness or sharpness. By evening there might be grilled fish landed that very morning or a rich seafood curry gently scented with cinnamon and curry leaves. What I particularly enjoyed was that meals rarely felt manufactured for tourists. Time and again I found myself eating food that local families were enjoying at neighbouring tables. There was a freshness and honesty about the cooking which reflected the island itself. Sri Lanka's location has helped shape its cuisine for centuries. Traders brought spices, ideas and recipes from India, Arabia and Europe, yet the island has always managed to preserve a distinctive culinary identity of its own. Coconut appears everywhere, spices are used with remarkable confidence and almost every meal seems to celebrate the abundance of the surrounding countryside and sea. For visitors, discovering the food becomes every bit as memorable as exploring temples, wildlife reserves or tea plantations. Some of my happiest memories of Sri Lanka are not linked to famous landmarks at all, but to simple meals shared with welcoming people in places where conversation flowed as easily as the tea. Discover Sri Lanka One Meal at a Time Every region of Sri Lanka has its own culinary traditions, making the island a wonderful destination for anyone who enjoys combining travel with great food. Whether you're staying beside the ocean, in the tea-growing hills or close to ancient temples, memorable meals are never far away. FAQ What food is Sri Lanka famous for? Sri Lanka is famous for rice and curry, hoppers, string hoppers, coconut sambol, kottu roti, seafood dishes, spicy curries and tropical fruit. Its cuisine combines aromatic spices with fresh local ingredients. Is Sri Lankan food spicy? Many dishes contain chilli, but Sri Lankan cooking is more about layers of flavour than intense heat. Coconut, cinnamon, cardamom and curry leaves all help create balanced, aromatic dishes. What should first-time visitors eat in Sri Lanka? Don't miss rice and curry, egg hoppers, string hoppers, coconut sambol, kottu roti, fish curry, fresh king prawns and buffalo curd served with treacle. Is Sri Lanka a good destination for food lovers? Absolutely. From luxury hotel restaurants to roadside cafés and bustling markets, Sri Lanka offers one of Asia's richest and most varied food cultures.

The Dart at Dartmouth The River Dart and the green folds of the South Hams have a way of sticking around in the country-lover’s memory. It is one of those landscapes that seems to reveal something new every time you return – whether you explore it on foot, by boat, by steam train or simply find somewhere beside the river to sit and watch the world go by. I have been exploring and writing about this corner of South Devon for decades, covering everything from riverside walks and historic buildings to food festivals, villages, pubs and some of the more curious stories hidden in the landscape. And there are plenty of those. Check out our Devon walks page here The River Dart approaches Dartmouth and Kingswear Exploring the River Dart To understand the Dart, you have to appreciate its split personality. Up on the moors, and down past Buckfastleigh, it behaves like a lively young river. But once it slips past the A38 it grows up fast. By the time it reaches Totnes – the lowest bridging point on the river – it has met saltwater, broadened, and come of age. I was once told that an Act of Parliament forbids the building of bridges from the historic town all the way to the sea. Whether or not that is quite as simple as the story suggests, the practical result is certainly true: if you want to cross the lower Dart, you take to the water. And what water it is. Victorian excursionists called the lower reaches “The English Rhine”, and anyone who has enjoyed the classic river cruise between Totnes and Dartmouth will understand why. Gliding downstream from Steamer Quay, you soon realise that you are travelling along a watery highway which effectively divides South Devon in two. It is hard to believe that modern excursion boats can navigate some of those upper, shallow bends until you remember that big timber ships used to make their way right up to Baltic Wharf until comparatively recent decades. They had to carve a huge V-shaped turning space into the quay. A walker looks out over Totnes on the River Dart Below Baltic Wharf, the river begins to open out. You pass quiet corners such as Hole-in-the-Wall Creek and Fleet Mill Cove, where shelduck bob about, sometimes close to the rotting, mud-bound timbers of old vessels. Then the river sweeps around Sharpham Point, where vineyards come almost down to the water, giving you the impression that you have somehow drifted into the Rhineland. Tuckenhay and the River Dart Off to the right, hidden along the wooded creek of Bow Creek, lies the historic hamlet of Tuckenhay. Today herons and egrets occupy the places where 240-ton cargo coasters once berthed to load paper, cider and malting barley. Tuckenhay also has an extraordinary claim to fame. In 1806 it had what is said to have been the first municipal gas lighting in the world, beating places such as London and Manchester – and presumably causing some irritation among the local smugglers, who had far more use for the ancient darkness of the tidal river. Tuckenhay's riverside pub, The Maltsters Arms, was once run by the irrepressible, wine-swilling television pioneer Keith Floyd. The Maltsters at Tuckenhay It remains a wonderful place to stop for a pint, a meal or a night beside the river, with its quayside setting, fires and rooms overlooking the creek. Stoke Gabriel, Dittisham and Greenway Back on the main river you enter what has been called “The Lake of the Dart” – a broad, still stretch of water. During the Second World War, thousands of anti-invasion stakes were driven into the river bed to prevent German seaplanes from landing. On the northern shore lies Stoke Gabriel, while down on the southern banks you will find Dittisham, a popular but difficult-to-reach riverside village where holiday homes now command eye-watering prices. Across the water is Greenway, the former holiday home of Agatha Christie, surrounded by woodland and overlooking the river. A boat heads for Dittisham on the River Dart From Greenway, if you don't want simply to sit on the deck of a boat, you can walk the five-mile section of the Dart Valley Trail south to Kingswear. It is a sheltered and scenic woodland walk, climbing over Oakham Hill with views across the estuary and its great bends before dropping into Long Wood, an ancient oak forest running along the river bank. Every so often the peace is interrupted by the hoot of a steam locomotive emerging from the Greenway railway tunnel on the Paignton and Dartmouth line. The Dart Round Robin Talking of which, the Dart Round Robin remains one of the great Devon day trips. The classic excursion combines a steam train journey along the Torbay coast and through the hills to Kingswear, the passenger ferry across the river to Dartmouth, a boat trip all the way back up the Dart to Totnes, and finally an open-top bus ride over the watershed. It is difficult to imagine a more satisfying way of seeing so much of South Devon in a single day. The route can be travelled in either direction, and timings vary according to the River Dart tides. Dartmouth: the Queen of West Country Ports And now, of course, we reach Dartmouth. A quarter of a century ago, when writing a series about harbour towns across the peninsula, I described it as the “Queen of Westcountry ports”. I think it still fits. Dartmouth sits at the mouth of the estuary with a confidence all its own, overlooked by the Britannia Royal Naval College high on the hill. But Dartmouth was not always so well presented. Centuries ago it was a squalid little settlement clinging to the edge of mudflats and tidal salt marshes. What the Dutch did to Holland, the merchants of Dartmouth did to their own shoreline – gradually reclaiming the creeks and building grand merchant quarters on the new land. The famous Butterwalk, built between 1635 and 1640 by Newfoundland merchant Mark Hawkins, stands on ground that had previously belonged to little more than reeds and mud. You can still feel something of that prosperous history in the town centre at the Royal Castle Hotel, sitting beside the inner harbour. Built in the 17th century, with its wonky floors and low beams, it has been carefully preserved. It is the sort of place where you can sit by the fire with a pint and watch ferries and fishing boats crossing the water. The Dartmouth-Kingswear ferry Walking from Dartmouth to Dartmouth Castle If you head out of town along Bayard's Cove, a four-mile walk leads along the waterfront to Dartmouth Castle. Built in 1481, it was the first fortress in Britain specifically designed for artillery – the merchants' high-tech answer to protecting their increasingly valuable town. From Blackstone Point, looking across towards Shooter Rock and the Mew Stone, you see one of the Dart's great secrets. From the sea, the entrance to the river is almost invisible, hidden by the wooded cliffs. Further west from Warren Point, the South West Coast Path offers views across Start Bay towards Slapton Sands, Torcross and the headland of Start Point. A small jetty at Slapton Ley Slapton Sands and Slapton Ley Behind the shingle ridge of Slapton Sands is Slapton Ley, the largest natural freshwater lake in the Westcountry. Walking along the Field Studies Council's wooden boardwalks through the reed beds can feel like being transported to the French Camargue. There is soughing in the bulrushes, herons and egrets wade about in the shallows, and there are reminders of the people who once made their living here, including reed-cutters and sportsmen who came for the winter coot shoots. The path leads inland to the village of Slapton, dominated by the ruined 14th-century chantry tower of Sir Guy de Brian – one of those buildings that looks slightly out of place in the modern landscape, like something from a Grimm fairy tale. Reed beds at Slapton Ley A South Devon landscape worth exploring slowly I have spent enough time wandering through the South Hams over the years to know that this is not a part of Devon to rush. The woodlands, tidal creeks, stone quays and hidden corners of the River Dart all have their own character. Some are best appreciated from the deck of a boat; others reveal themselves on foot, along the South West Coast Path or one of the many inland trails. And then there are the pubs. Which brings me to one of my particular favourites. Raising a Glass to Peter at the Pig's Nose Down at the southern tip of Devon, you will find the village of East Prawle and the Pig's Nose Inn, a place that occupies a special corner of my heart. If I had to choose one pub to represent the eccentricity, warmth and unvarnished character of the Westcountry, it might well be this one. The Pig's Nose is the sort of place that feels as though somebody forgot to tell it that the rest of the world was changing. Its late landlord Peter was a one-off. The late Peter Distin Webber at the Pig's Nse A former 1960s pop and rock road manager, he had hauled gear for everyone from Dave Dee, Dozy, Beaky, Mick and Tich to The Searchers. He bought the run-down inn with Lesley decades ago, knowing absolutely nothing about running a pub. Between them, they turned it into a place that became famous far beyond Devon – an Aladdin's cave of bric-a-brac, Heath Robinson beer-pulling contraptions and balls of wool for communal knitting. There is also the legendary hall attached to the pub, which has hosted gigs with the kind of bands you would not normally expect to see in such a small, out-of-the-way venue. Peter once told me he could never bear living in a normal house where people didn't drop in. “It'd scare me – I'd end up putting a barrel in the front room and hoping someone would come to see me.” The Pig's Nose remains a monument to that spirit, and my thoughts are with Lesley as she keeps the fires burning with her son Joss. English Heritage castle at the mouth of the River Dart Planning a River Dart day trip The Dart Round Robin is one of the easiest ways to experience several different sides of South Devon in a single day. The route combines: Steam train between Paignton and Kingswear Passenger ferry to and from Dartmouth River cruise between Dartmouth and Totnes Bus link between Totnes and Paignton It can be done in either direction. The service normally operates on selected dates from late March through late October, with schedules varying according to the River Dart tides. For current timetables, fares and booking information, check the Dartmouth Steam Railway and River Boat Company before travelling. A quiet corner of the tidal River Dart My South Devon memories There are parts of the West Country that I return to again and again, and the River Dart and South Hams are firmly among them. Perhaps that is because the landscape has so many different personalities. There is the bustling harbour at Dartmouth, the quiet creeks around The Maltsters Arms at Tuckenhay, the vineyards at Sharpham, the wooded slopes around Greenway, the open sweep of Start Bay and the extraordinary wildlife of Slapton Ley. You can explore it by boat, train, car or on foot. But however you travel, the same thing keeps drawing you back: the feeling that around the next bend in the river, or beyond the next Devon hedge, there will be another little piece of the Westcountry waiting to be discovered. The Dart at Tuckenhay, South Devon