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Discover a Hidden Gem in Cornwall 🌿 Just under a quarter of a century ago, I visited the remarkable Trebah Gardens in Southern Cornwall to meet with the owner, the late Tony Hibbert. What follows is the article I wrote at the time for the Western Morning News. Every now and again in the West Country, you can come across a spot that somehow speaks of another world. You turn a corner perhaps, and all of a sudden, you are plunged into somewhere full of bright exoticism. Our northern climes give way to the sub-tropical , and we are immersed in some dazzling, magical demesne. Such a trick would be just about impossible anywhere else in the kingdom without the aid of acres of glass, but Cornwall is home to at least half-a-dozen brilliant wonderlands. Gardens that seem to think they’re far closer to the Equator than they are. None, however, offers quite such a geographical warp as the gardens at Trebah . Read more about Trebah Gardens on the official website . A Journey to Trebah Gardens 🚶‍♂️ To explore this south-facing coombe in southerly Cornwall is to immerse oneself in a distant, far-flung sub-tropical land—without ever having to reach for a passport or a visa. "Look at it – just look at it," sighed Tony Hibbert, who has spent the past 23 years working tirelessly on his 26-acre estate. He uttered this instruction with pride as we stood in front of his house at the very top of the garden. "When I first took in this view, the intention was to sit here enjoying it with a gin-and-tonic in my hand. But I never had much time for the G-and-T as it turned out; the place sort of took over our lives." It’s easy to see why. The deep, mysterious coombe at Trebah seems to beckon, as you peer down from its brink. Perhaps it’s something to do with the waters that glimmer at the end of the valley. The flashing wavelets of the Helford estuary seem to insinuate themselves throughout the demesne. Learn more about the Helford River and its surroundings. There’s something about a garden that leads down to the sea—you cannot help but feel an overwhelming desire to stroll down its shady, sylvan length to the shore. A Stroll Through Trebah's Wonders 🌸 Such places contain two of the world’s most beautiful sounds: the soughing of breeze in the treetops and the boom of surf upon sand . Even with your eyes closed, you know you are somewhere special. And you know this even more if you are lucky enough to be escorted around by Tony Hibbert himself. Not only is the sprightly 83-year-old extremely knowledgeable about the wide diversity of flora that populates his wonderland, but he’s also excellent company. Here’s an example of the sort of thing I was treated to as we whisked around the garden on a private tour: "There used to be some banana trees just here years ago," smiled Mr. Hibbert, pointing at what is now a crystal-clear pond full of Koi carp . "The then Prince of Wales came with Wallace Simpson and was surprised to see huge yellow bananas growing in Cornwall. He even bestowed some sort of medal on the head gardener, only for the gardener to be sacked the next day for wiring store-bought bananas to the trees!" The Sub-Tropical Marvels of Trebah 🌴 The anecdotes continued as we made our way around the dreamy demesne—down through the water garden , through the many mighty bamboos in an area called the Bamboozle , to Ninky's Pool and Dinky's Puddle . These attractive ponds are named after two beautiful Dutch girls who had brave parents that helped Mr. Hibbert escape during World War II. Find more about Trebah's WWII history. The WWII theme is repeated right at the bottom of the garden, where memorials pay tribute to the 7,500 brave men who set off from this very spot en-route to Omaha Beach for the D-Day landings. A small path allows access to Yankee Beach and Polgwidden Cove , where visitors can enjoy the watery vistas of one of the region’s most beautiful rivers. Trebah's Unique Flora 🌺 Back in the garden, Mr. Hibbert introduced me to a rare rhododendron called the Trebah Gem , which forms part of the Queen’s plant collection. We then moved to the many different varieties of bamboo that grow luxuriantly in the warm confines of the damp valley. At certain times of the year, the bamboo grows at an incredible rate—with some knots on the stem representing a full day’s growth, stretching as much as a foot apart. We were awed by the big South American trees in Chilean Coombe , enamored by the 'Handkerchief Trees' , astonished by the magnolias from the slopes of Everest, and amazed by the 150-year-old Sequoias . A Garden Steeped in History 📜 The garden at Trebah first began to take shape just under 200 years ago when it was bought by the Fox family of Falmouth . The family, known for their extraordinary energy, created many great gardens in South Cornwall. Charles Fox planted the ravine as it is today, importing seeds and plants from all over the world. He also built a massive red-brick mansion, but only the original building remains today, housing Mr. Hibbert’s flat and the garden’s offices. Later, the Hext family bought the estate and filled the lower pool with flamingos, bringing the gardens to the peak of their reputation in the early 1900s. Trebah Gardens opened to the public in 1987, and by 1990, visitor numbers had reached 50,000 a year. See how Trebah has evolved over the years. That was when the Hibberts formed the Trebah Garden Trust to ensure the gardens would remain open for public enjoyment forevermore. Visiting Trebah Gardens 🏞️ Work on the garden is ongoing, but recent developments have made a huge difference to the visitor experience. The new architect-designed coffee-house, restaurant, and shop area houses a large art gallery featuring work by artists inspired by this beautiful part of the county. Compared to the price of an airline ticket to somewhere equally exotic, admission to Trebah Gardens is a great value. There’s even an exciting jungle-like 'Tarzan camp' for children who might tire of floral exoticism. Trebah is truly a must-visit for all garden lovers, especially those who appreciate a taste of the sub-tropical in the heart of Cornwall.

Walkers at Trevalga on Cornwall's north coast Discovering Trevalga: A Village with a Story Always take a map – that’s my motto. Failure to do so could end in disappointment. Not that there’s anything in any way disappointing about this amazing walk - it’s just that now I’m returned home and looking at OS Explorer 111 map, I realise there’s a slightly more intriguing route available for those looking for a hike around Trevalga. Anyone who asks “Where?” will have missed the news story several years ago reporting how the charming Cornish village was sold over the heads of its many unwitting and worried tenants. I went down to the North Cornish coast halfway between Boscastle and Tintagel to interview some of these people, and ended the day feeling guilty. Why? Because after I’d heard about their fears of eviction and the like, I went for a jolly nice walk. So pleasant, that I could understand anyone feeling deeply depressed having to leave such a place. Anyway, in my rush to travel to Cornwall I forgot to take the trusty Explorer map 111 – and so eventually contented myself with a simple walk along the coast path from Trevalga to Tintagel, where I caught a bus back. The Unintended Walk: Trevalga to Tintagel Coast Path A Missed Opportunity: The Scenic Circular Route via St Nectan's Glen Had I been armed with the map I’d have done the much more interesting – but no less scenic – circular route along the coast, then up famous St Nectan’s Glen so that I could return via Tredole Farm down the tiny lane back to Trevalga. In fact, so wonderful does that route seem that I have promised myself a return visit soon. But in the meantime, let’s find Trevalga and the start point of either walk. Fact File: Essential Information for Your Trevalga Walk Basic walk: from Trevalga down to coast path then west to Tintagel. Recommend map: Ordnance Survey Explorer 111. Distance and going: just over four miles – up and down a bit but easy going.  Return bus service: The 594/595 service runs from Bude to Truro, calling at Boscastle, Tintagel and Port Isaac Getting to Trevalga: Finding the Start Point The village is located down a cul-de-sac just off the B3263 Boscastle-Tintagel road – I must have driven past it 100 times without even noticing the place before. Its lane meanders past a jumble of cottages, a fine old church and a farm to eventually terminate at the entrance to a private drive and an agricultural track. There is just enough room at this junction of the ways for a few cars to park. The village of Trevalga on Cornwall's north coast Setting Off: From Farm Track to Coastal Views I took the farm track and this conveyed me a few hundred metres to the coast path. From here I could see a walk which featured on this page just a few weeks ago – the Boscastle stroll around the mighty bastion of Willapark is just a couple of coastal miles to the north-east. But this time I was heading westwards, initially because photographer Emily Whitfield-Wicks wanted to show me the remarkable rock feature called the Ladies Window. The Ladies Window: A Must-See Coastal Feature In high season this hole in the rocks is obviously something of an iconic must-see – we came across several dozen all queuing to have their photographs taken while posing in the natural aperture high above the sea. Most were either German or Dutch. After we’d waited our turn, and Emily had duly taken a picture of me looking grockle-like in the rocky and vertiginous window, we parted and I strode off along the coast. Continuing West: Scenic Miles to Tintagel It’s about three miles to Tintagel – and three very scenic miles they are. First the coast path makes a gentle descent, past Firebeacon Hill and down along the top of Trevalga Cliff beyond which it skirts a campsite to finally drop deep into the mouth of Rocky Valley. Rocky Valley and Beyond: Coastal Beauty Unveiled This is where I could have turned inland – climbing up what must be one of the most dramatic river valleys in the region, to cross the road into St Nectan’s Glen. Instead I carried on my own sweet coast path way – up over the cliffs that line beautiful Benoath Cove and Bossiney Haven. It says something about the great knack Cornwall has of keeping secrets that even on a sunny day in August these jewel-like sandy beaches were almost empty. Hardly a dozen hardy beach-lovers were down there on the golden sand – and would certainly have joined them for an hour or two if I’d had the time. But for me the coast path rounded the corner of a great headland which, like its Boscastle neighbour a few miles up the coast, is also called Willapark. Why two Willaparks? What does the word mean? The path now continues along plainly named Smith’s Cliff, high above exotic sounding Gullastem Cove. Then there’s Barras Gug – whatever a gug is – and Barras Nose. Tintagel's Legendary Castle: Myth and History Only then do we finally see the famous castle perched so dramatically on the great bold bastion of Tintagel Head. Of all the castles in all the world, it is difficult to imagine one more laden with myth and fancy than the 1 romantic, sea-borne, fortifications at Tintagel.   For those who may, somehow, have escaped the legend, it goes something like this: King Arthur’s mother, Ygerna, was the most beautiful woman in Britain – a fact which brought her to the attentions of violent King Uther Pendragon. He invaded Cornwall specifically so he could have his wicked way with her, despite the fact that she was married to one Gorlois, ruler of Cornwall. Ygerna was hidden at Tintagel, while Gorlois’s Cornish forces were besieged at a hill-fort near by. But Uther was so smitten with lust he couldn’t be bothered to mess about fighting and asked his friend Merlin if he could come up with a magical shortcut. The bearded one brought him a drug that would change the king into a living, breathing, copy of Gorlois. Effectively disguised, the wicked Uther managed to gain entry to the queen’s bed, where he “satisfied his desire” - and Arthur was conceived. English Heritage rules the airy roost nowadays and you must pay an entry fee if you want to explore the place where King Arthur is said to have begun his life. Returning from Tintagel: Completing the Journey I’d been across to the fortress many times before, so for me it was a quick climb up to Tintagel village where I caught one of the regular buses that runs along the coast to Boscastle, passing Trevalga as it does. HERE IS THE NEWS STORY I WROTE IN 2010 Life in a beautiful Cornish “bubble” could go pop today. “Bubble” is how some residents describe the small village of Trevalga, perched above the north Cornish sea cliffs, because it is the only community dominated by affordable rented properties in a coastal area where villages are full of holiday cottages and second homes.  But the Manor of Trevalga, along with its five tenant farms and 16 rented houses and cottages, goes up for sale today with a price tag which expected to be in the region of £10 million. And the tenants are losing sleep with worry.   People like Jess Frohlick-Watson have called Trevalga home for decades, and most thought their tenancies were safe long into the future because the large estate was part of a legacy set up by a man who loved the place and its community.  But Jess, who has lived in Trevalga most of her life, was close to tears when she spoke to me this week because she fears new owners may develop the unspoilt but highly scenic honey-pot village which boasts stunning views of the coast. Her children are the family’s fifth generation to reside at Trevalga – now Jess worries they’ll be the last because her short-term tenancy will offer little in the way of protection. “We could be out within two months,” she told me, speaking in the small back garden of the cottage that has been her home for the past 15 years. “The worse case scenario is that my children, who are 14 and six, could be evicted from their beds - their home - just so other children can have a nice holiday in the countryside. “We could be homeless by Christmas, we just don’t know,” Jess went on. “If the estate is bought by someone who wants to turn it into second homes or holiday lets, it will be a ghost town for nine months of the year.  “And they will be kicking out families, for that…?” asked Jess, filled with obvious emotion.   “My biggest worry is that we won’t be re-housed in this area – and this is our whole life. It’s not just about it being a home or about the schools. The children have got their clubs, their football teams, and whatever - and they’ll just have to leave it all. “I hope the people at Marlborough College are sleeping well at the moment because, I can tell them, no one in Trevalga is. It’s a close-knit place – we know all our neighbours here. We all trust each other. We all respect each other and get on. But where will we all be?” “There’s nowhere else like it around here,” commented her husband Dax. “This place is like a bubble – the people who live here couldn’t afford to live in the other villages on the coast which are full of holiday homes.” “We’ve paid the rent and looked after the village all these years,” shrugged Jess. “It looks nice and this is how they’ve thanked us!” It’s a story which seems very much at odds with an official document the WMN was shown in a cottage just a few hundred metres down the tiny lane that passes for Trevalga’s pretty main street. It described the intentions of the man who owned the estate and left it to a charitable trust. Gerald Curgenven, a former teacher at Marlborough College, bought the estate in 1934 for £14,000 and tried to ensure it remained untouched long after his death… “With the declared wish that the estate be preserved and improved - and as far as possible not sold or broken up – and that the payment from the estate should go to the trust.” The words were shown to us by Jess’s mother, Linda Frohlick, who has been in her house for 34 years and who is better off than many of the tenants as she has an old fashioned long term lease. “This is a little pearl among the tourist areas,” said Mary, describing the village which is situated halfway between Boscastle and Tintagel. “There is a genuine spirit here.  “I’m one of the lucky ones, but my concern is for the people either side of me who have short-term tenancies. One has spent £1000s on doing the cottage up on the understanding they’d be there for years, because that’s how the estate was always run. And I mean many £1000s. Then there’s a hard working farmer the other side of me – obviously he needs to live here for his work. “It would destroy the community as we know it and the chances are it will just be another holiday village. And there’s another worry - if all the short-hold tenants are evicted they will be competing for the very few houses there are for rent in the area.  “One couple have already given in their notice without waiting to find out what’s going to happen – and I can see their point,” said Mary. “They wanted to be first in the queue to find an alternative home around here.  “The ideal outcome would be for Marlborough College to work with us and find just one buyer who will continue to run it as it is – keep it as just one community. We didn’t know until recently that they owned it outright – they were bequeathed a residual income from the estate after maintenance was paid, so it was a bit of a shock to the village that they suddenly were able to sell it.” As we left her cottage Mary showed us a collection of old photographs: “This one’s of Pentecost Symons – my mum’s father – taken way back in the early part of the last century,” she mused. “He was a farmer and it was taken in the road just out there. Look at it – nothing has changed at all.” That is one of the great joys of Trevalga – there are no gift shops such as the ones to be seen in the two famous neighbouring communities. There are no ice-cream outlets, pubs, fast-food joints or anything else… The place is a living shrine to a Cornwall of earlier times.    Down the sparrow-filled lane towards the sea-cliffs we came across a woman walking her dog. Mother-of-two Katie Leeds is a tenant in the village and she told the WMN that the general belief was that the sale of the estate had been inspired by the recent building of a South West Water sewerage plant nearby. “Boscastle didn’t want it – Tintagel didn’t want it – and so it was built here, which is ironic because all the properties in the village have private cesspits,” said Katie. “But a lot of people think it was the sale of that land that gave Marlborough the idea to sell the whole lot off. “It’s a huge worry to us – everyone here is worried,” said Katie, adding that locals had first been told of a possible sale at a public meeting in the tiny village hall. Villagers learned that lawyers for Marlborough College had discovered that, after half a century, the trust set up by the late Mr Curgenven was invalid - not having an end date or ultimate beneficiary. The private college then took direct ownership of the Trevalga estate, but became concerned that owning such a large asset appeared to contravene the Charity Commission’s guidelines.  That was when the school took the step of instructing Savills estate agency to put the entire estate up for sale, with the one exception St Petroc’s church.  In that hallowed and quiet temple, situated down an unpaved lane to one side of the village, there is a comments book for visitors – the last entry is typical of several written recently…  It says: “We hope Trevalga stays as a proper community…” Even the name of the church bears an irony – the St Petroc Society is a Cornish-based charity that helps look after homeless people. Its list of clients might soon be extended.

One of the most dramatic hikes I have ever done was descending the Imbros Gorge, set deep in the rugged landscapes of Western Crete. The gorge offers an exhilarating and scenic hiking experience - unlike its more famous counterpart, the Samaria Gorge, Imbros provides a less crowded but equally beautiful trek.  The Journey Begins The adventure starts at the quaint village of Imbros, located approximately 700 metres above sea level. This traditional Cretan village, with its narrow streets and stone houses, offers a glimpse into the local lifestyle and culture. Here, hikers can gear up and prepare for the journey ahead, amidst the backdrop of the White Mountains. Descending into Natural Splendour The Imbros Gorge, approximately eight kilometres long, is renowned for its striking rock formations and diverse flora and fauna. As the trail descends, hikers are greeted by towering cliffs and narrow passages, some only two meters wide, famously known as the "Iron Gates." This dramatic section is a highlight for many, providing awe-inspiring photo opportunities and a sense of being enveloped by nature's grandeur. A Flora and Fauna Haven Throughout the hike, one can observe a rich tapestry of plant and animal life. The gorge is home to endemic species such as the Cretan Wildcat - we certainly didn’t see any of those - and the Griffon Vulture, which we also failed to spot. Never mind, the botanical diversity is also noteworthy, with fragrant herbs, wildflowers, and ancient cypress and pine trees adorning the path. In spring when we were there, the gorge is particularly vibrant, with wildflowers blooming in abundance. Echoes of History The Imbros Gorge is not just a natural wonder but also a site of historical significance. During World War II, it served as an escape route for Allied soldiers heading to the southern coast of Crete. Remnants of this past, like old stone shelters and pathways, add an element of historical intrigue to the hike. Reaching the Sea The trek concludes at the village of Komitades, where the gorge opens up to magnificent views of the Libyan Sea. Here, hikers can relax and enjoy local Cretan cuisine in one of the tavernas, a perfect way to end the journey. The nearby coastal village of Sfakia offers opportunities for further exploration or a relaxing swim in the crystal-clear waters. Our hike leader had organised a truly delicious lunch at Komitades, the small village that hugs the southern coastal mountain slopes beneath the gorge, but high above the sea. It was a miracle of her organisational skills because it was Easter Day and the taverna had invited many family members to a huge meal. But taverna owners Giorgos and Annette put on a massive spread for we hungry hikers, which their entire family of polite young sons helped serve. Practical Tips for Hikers Best Time to Visit: The gorge is most accessible from late spring to early autumn. Avoid winter and rainy seasons due to potential flooding. Gear Up: Wear comfortable hiking shoes, and bring water, snacks, a hat, and sunscreen. Fitness Level: The hike is of moderate difficulty, suitable for anyone with average fitness. Transportation: Consider arranging transportation back to Imbros or your next destination from Komitades.

They call it the view that launched a thousand crashes, and tragically, it's all too true: Dunster Castle has claimed lives as motorists slam on their brakes to take in the breathtaking sight. The Spellbinding View of Dunster Castle 👀 The view appears as a stunning surprise when driving on the A39 towards Minehead from Carhampton. Suddenly, there it is: the great castle hanging above Dunster Lawns, as if straight out of a fairy tale. This panorama truly captures the essence of the old market town nestled between the hills, the castle, and the sea. It is a show-stopper, one of those places in the West Country that exudes a magic all of its own. Dunster: A Picture-Perfect Westcountry Jewel 🌃 Dunster is, arguably, the crown jewel among the West Country's scenic honey-pots. Point your camera anywhere in this picturesque village, and you'll capture a timeless shot. The famous Yarn Market, which dominates the main street, is one of the most photographed structures in the region. Back in 1823, William Hazlitt described Dunster: "Eyeing it wistfully as it lay below us, contrasted with the woody scene around, it looked as clear, as pure, as embrowned and ideal as any landscape I have seen since..." Walk around Dunster today, and it's easy to agree with Hazlitt. The charm is palpable. A Hymn-Worthy Landscape 👨‍🌄 Just over a century ago, Mrs. Cecil Frances Alexander was so enchanted that she wrote the famous hymn "All Things Bright and Beautiful" while sitting on Grabbist, the hill that serves as Dunster's backdrop. Dunkery Beacon, rising beyond the Avill Valley, may not be exactly a "purple headed mountain," but the sentiment rings true enough. A Village of Timeless Appeal ⏳ Dunster is as historic as it is beautiful, and it attracts day-trippers like a magnet. Yet, it has remained resilient against the pressures of mass tourism. The National Trust plays a significant role here, owning Dunster Castle and managing traffic to help preserve the village's charm. The Trust's car park, conveniently located just off the main road, alleviates much of the congestion in the village. The Castle That Dominates All 🏰 The sight of Dunster Castle perched on its knoll is ever-present, following you wherever you wander in the village. Originally established in 1067, this ancient fortress has ruled over Dunster for almost a thousand years. Its presence looms large, omnipotent even on the darkest winter nights. The Luttrell family lived in the castle for centuries until Colonel Sir Walter Luttrell gifted it to the National Trust in 1976. Though times have changed, the influence of the castle remains palpable, and the sense of power from this ancient seat still lingers. Legends of Lady Elizabeth and a Naked Ride 🚃 Dunster is steeped in history, filled with legends and anecdotes. One such tale tells of Lady Elizabeth de Mohun, who rode naked at dawn to claim land for the villagers after her husband made the daring condition. Grateful townsfolk supposedly averted their eyes, but, well, that part might be stretching it! Rolling History Under Dunster's Castle Walls 🛠️ From mediaeval masons building the grand church and priory to Benedictine monks silently filing past the Nunnery, a pageant of history has unfolded beneath the castle walls. Even King Charles II, escaping the plague, found temporary refuge here. The history of Dunster is woven with stories of packmen, farmers' wives spinning yarn, and ancient market dealings under the iconic Yarn Market roof. Today, the village might not have a grocery store, but its gift shops still offer a charming, tourist-friendly experience. The Village That Time Couldn't Spoil 🚗🗿 Though cars now fill the historic streets, Dunster has managed to keep the modern world at bay. The old centre remains untouched by sprawling developments, and every year during the candle-lit Christmas festival, the village offers a glimpse of its magical past. It's a shame the bypass never happened – the High Street remains cluttered with vehicles. But if you imagine it car-free, you get a sense of the wonder that Dunster once held and still manages to evoke. Hidden Gems of Dunster 💎 A Few Things You Didn't Know: A legend that a giant was locked in a dungeon turned out to be partly true – a manacled skeleton was uncovered during the last century in Dunster Castle's Gatehouse. Dunster once had a port called "The Hawn," which still exists in some form, though now it's landlocked and inhabited by ducks. There is a reputed tunnel from the Castle to Conygar Tower, the hilltop folly that crowns the woodland opposite the village. Thomas Hardy's novel "A Laodicean" was set in Dunster, although it remains one of his lesser-known works. The villagers still recall their very own ogre with the "Giant's Seat" high on Grabbist, from where the friendly giant was said to wave and help dry their washing! Dunster's deep history and enchanting scenery make it a must-visit location on any Westcountry itinerary. Come for the views, stay for the legends, and watch out as you round that bend on the A39! 🌱

The South West Coast Path has been making headlines recently, partly thanks to the now rather infamous Salt Path debacle, but also because we’ve had a glorious summer (if you’re a walker and not a farmer, that is) and increased numbers - inspired by the book or the film - have been trudging along at least some of its 630-mile length. But where should our most famous long distance trail really begin and end? Minehead or Portishead – Where Should the Path Begin? I ask the question because, although the 47-year-old path begins at my own home-town of Minehead, there have been a few changes in recent times - namely the development of the England Coast Path (officially called the King Charles III England Coast Path), a new walking route that will eventually encircle the entire coastline. So, why should something called the South West Coast Path begin 40 or 50 miles along our glorious peninsula’s littoral, and not at the actual start? And where is the actual start? Well, you could argue it’s at Portishead, near where the River Avon joins the place where the Severn Estuary comes-of-age to become the Bristol Channel proper. Look at a map of the entire peninsula and that really is the most obvious corner for a coast path to begin its march west, rather than way down the Somerset coast more than halfway to Devon. And guess what. There is a glorious section of coast path that you can enjoy that would begin an easterly extension of the greatest public right-of-way in the world. Setting Off: Portishead to Clevedon How do I know that to be the case? Because my pal Richard, the editor of the Western Daily Press , told me so and he took me along the surprisingly lovely stretch from Portishead to Clevedon. If you’ve never tarried in the area and are in doubt as to where exactly I mean, then imagine driving along the scenic bit of M5 motorway that climbs south into the hills just past the Gordano Services. As the motorway ascends to weave along a series of dramatic flyovers you’ll see a deep valley to your right, beyond which is a wooded ridge that protects the small vale from the sea. It stretches from Portishead down to Clevedon and it’s seaborne slopes play host to this six-mile length of coast path. Portishead: Swimming Pools, Forts and Fossils I met Richard at Portishead’s open-air swimming pool, an excellent and highly popular amenity judging by the crowds there in last week’s sunshine. The community-operated pool is situated directly adjacent to Battery Point. This small rocky promontory has a history that goes back to the Civil War when a fort was built here to defend the sea-way to Bristol. Guns were once again mounted here during both world wars, but the small headland is now open to the public - however, you can still see just a few remains of the old coastal defences. Turn to face the direction of our walk, and you will see the rather attractive area around Woodhill Bay, with its boating pond and the town’s cricket pitch, a hallowed zone much beloved by my companion Richard. The beach is not the kind of sandy affair you’ll see down the coast at Weston-Super-Mare, more of a mix of rocks and mud, but it has a history of its own and is an important site for geologists because of the fossil fish beds that have been found in the rocks. Kilkenny Bay and the Wild Somerset Coast After Woodhill Bay, there’s Kilkenny Bay, which is really part of the same inlet. The name, Kilkenny, feels out of place in the Westcountry, but it’s been on the maps for centuries. It is a place of mudflats and salt marsh, an important habitat for birds. You can stand there and feel the sense of wildness that still exists on this coastline, even so close to a growing town. From there, we headed south-west along the newly named King Charles III England Coast Path - a narrow weaving track that was enjoyed by locals long before its present designation. Black Nore Lighthouse and Football Legends And it threads its way along a surprisingly remarkable bit of coastline. Not a bad option if it was to be officially recognised as the very beginning of the Westcountry’s coastal path network. A symbolic start to a journey - just a few miles outside the centre of Bristol - that could take you all the way to Land’s End and back around the English Channel Coast to Poole. We were discussing such weighty matters as we started the gentle climb Black Nore Lighthouse, when Richard was hailed by a friendly gentleman strolling along the path. He turned out to be a proud Portishead local, but also a retired professional footballer - one who happened to play for Arsenal, Coventry City and West Ham and who later enjoyed managerial stints with Wimbledon, Coventry City, and the Wales national team. If you’re interested in football, you’ll know exactly who I mean, if not you won’t care. We enjoyed a pleasant chat with this affable old-pro, who told me there was “not enough shooting and too much passing” in the modern game. Black Nore Lighthouse is one of those small leggy adaptations to the usual lighthouse genre. Erected in 1894, it once ran on gas and I am told was lit and extinguished manually twice a day by the Ashford family, from nearby Black Nore Farm. During WW2, it was even fitted with a master switch so the light could be turned off during air raids. You can imagine the scene… A family looking out across the Bristol Channel, ready to plunge the coast into darkness to protect against some unseen threat rumbling in the skies. A Wild and Ancient Footpath After the light, the path becomes rather narrow here and there, winding between stunted trees and over exposed roots. Somehow you can feel the age of this coastal trail under your feet - a reminder that this is not a new path, but a route people have been walking for centuries. As we walked, Richard told me that our footballer friend was not the only famous person to have a home in the Portishead area. Kelsey Grammer, the star of the hugely successful TV series, Frasier, also owns a house hereabouts with his wife, Kayte Walsh, who is from Bristol. Apparently, they bought a ‘little place’ up on the nearby ridge to be closer to her family and the actor has talked about the property’s magnificent coastal views. Redcliffe Bay to Walton-in-Gordano The path ducks and dives as it continues south-west along the cliff-tops. We leave any traces of the urban world once we’re past the fuel tanks at Redcliffe Bay - from now on there’s nothing but woods and fields, with the exception of Walton Bay where there’s a holiday camp that looks as though it’s been there for the best part of a century. Next comes Culver Cliff and Pigeon House Bay - all very wild and remote - we only saw three other walkers along this section. If you were to head inland here, you’d climb up to the celebrated tumulus at Walton-in-Gordano. The Bronze Age round barrow is on Walton Common, a Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI), managed by the Avon Wildlife Trust. The nature reserve’s other features include hut circles, a field system, and a banjo enclosure. Well worth visiting, if you’re in the area. Further along the ridge there’s Walton Castle, a folly that looks as though it’s been there since the time of knights and dragons. It is actually a 17th-century hunting lodge, but it has a magnificent, storybook quality to it. From up there you’re treated to a wide panorama that takes in landmarks such as the Llanwern steel works and the Welsh cities of Newport and Cardiff as well as the twin the Severn bridges. Secret Bays and Clevedon Pier Back on the coast path, we proceed to Ladye Bay. This picturesque inlet is just outside Clevedon, and is one of those half-hidden coves that tend to be known by locals only. The kind of place where teenagers clamber down for moonlit swims and where families escape on hot days when the more obvious beaches are heaving with visitors. The place feels secretive, tucked beneath red sandstone cliffs and reached by narrow paths. The day we were there we watched two guys belting effortlessly and silently about the gentle waves on their hydrofoil style mini-surfboards. I cannot figure out how these things work - maybe someone could tell me. From here it’s a short walk into Clevedon. The pier, of course, is the town’s most famous calling card - a slender, elegant ironwork structure that arcs out into the swirling brown waters of the Bristol Channel. John Betjeman once called it “the most beautiful pier in England,” and you only have to walk its planks on a sunny afternoon to see why. The Grade I listed structure was completed in 1869 and is a wonderful piece of engineering that hints of a time when this was a thriving seaside resort. A Walk Linking Past and Future Did I say “was”? It still is. At least it was the day we ended our walk at the pier. The place was absolutely heaving - but then, I am talking about mid-August in a heatwave. We had started at the mouth of the Severn, at a place that feels like the very beginning of the Westcountry’s magnificent coastline, and we had finished at a seaside symbol of England’s proud Victorian heritage. I reckon that makes it a pretty special stroll indeed, if you’ve a morning or afternoon to spare.

Boringdon Hall Hotel : History, Luxury and Michelin-Star Dining Every region has a small clutch of grand hotels whose names and reputations are well known to most local people. They are the places to which we doff our collective cap — the venues which host our big social events and special occasions — the hostelries where we expect the best to simply be the best. Best bib-and-tucker, best food, best service, best accommodation etc etc… I can think of half-a-dozen such hotels in the South West peninsula, and recently I was fortunate enough to stay a night in one such establishment and enjoy a truly outstanding dinner. Luxury and Heritage at Boringdon Hall, Near Plymouth Boringdon Hall Hotel , near Plymouth, is one of the West Country’s grand hotels — it has an outstanding reputation as well as a well-known chef and a much-celebrated spa. Another way of describing the place would be to say it’s a living piece of history — a magnificent manor that has evolved from a grand family home to one of the most celebrated luxury destinations in Devon and the South West of England. A Manor Steeped in History The history of the old manor stretches back nearly a thousand years, with its first mention in the Domesday Book . Later, the estate was acquired by the Parker family in the 16th century, a lineage that would become the Earls of Morley . It was during this period that the magnificent old mansion began to take shape. The family’s wealth and influence allowed them to create an impressive Tudor and Jacobean masterpiece. Not surprisingly, that local swashbuckler, Sir Walter Raleigh, was a friend of the Parker family and a frequent visitor, and the room he’s said to have slept in — with its intricate plasterwork and oak panelling — is still a feature of the hotel today. A Fusion of Old and New Design As you drive up into the hills above Plympton and turn off into the hotel drive, you are confronted with all this historic glory. There’s the impressive Great Hall , with its soaring ceiling and a magnificent fireplace, but behind the ancient frontage there’s a surprise. That is because the house is built on a hillside, and modern architects have cleverly designed an almost futuristic extension which climbs the contours, hiding a state-of-the-art spa complete with a heated swimming pool, as well as an upper floor restaurant and a new wing of comfortable suites. From Neglect to Rebirth Strange to think that this extraordinary estate, situated just a couple of miles outside Plymouth, was once left dormant and decaying for decades. It would have become a sad ruin, but in the 21st century it was acquired by the Nettleton family , who embarked on an ambitious project to restore its former glory while introducing all that modern luxury and comfort. The major restoration was one of those labours of love — the family carefully set about preserving the Hall’s historic features, from its leaded windows to its original fireplaces, while integrating elements of contemporary design and technology. The result is a blend of old-world charm and modern sophistication . The historic rooms, with their four-poster beds and antique furniture, offer a sense of stepping back in time, while the newer wings provide the sleek elegance you’d expect from a five-star hotel in Devon . The Gaia Spa: A Sanctuary of Wellness A major turning point in Boringdon’s rise to prominence came with the creation of the award-winning Gaia Spa . The owners say this was a game-changer in Boringdon’s long history. The architects were asked to retain a connection to the natural environment which stretches away to the southern foothills of Dartmoor National Park , while designing a sanctuary of wellness and relaxation. They’ve incorporated natural materials and light to reflect the surrounding landscape. It’s quite something: you’re just minutes from a city of over 250,000 people, yet standing on the very edge of Dartmoor. After a sumptuous afternoon tea at Boringdon Hall , my wife and I drove up for a quick two-hour walk in one of Dartmoor’s most beautiful corners — a reminder of how perfectly this place blends indulgence and nature. Michelin-Star Dining at Àclèaf Restaurant Boringdon Hall has also become a culinary destination in recent years. I first went there nine years ago when the restaurant had just been taken over by a new, very young head chef called Scott Paton . The food was marvellous then, and it is even better now. Scott is still there, and since 2023 has been the proud holder of one of the highest accolades in the culinary world — a Michelin Star . “In my 20 years of cooking it’s always been a goal to achieve a Michelin Star,” he told me. “Since joining Boringdon Hall and receiving the faith and trust from the directors, that goal became so much closer after the launch of our Àclèaf restaurant . We pushed so much harder, not just for the star, but for all-round excellence.” “I’ve never worked with a team who drive themselves so hard, so for that I’m so delighted. The Michelin Star rewarded the team with recognition for all their hard work.” Fine Dining Menus Celebrating the South West The Àclèaf fine dining restaurant offers a sophisticated menu that champions local and seasonal produce . The chefs combine classic techniques with innovative flair, creating dishes that are as visually stunning as they are delicious. These are meals for special occasions (see below for our tasting menu experience). Afternoon Tea and Relaxation But I must not forget the large and lovely afternoon tea at Boringdon Hall . Locals and visitors are now regarding this multi-tier of sweet and savoury delights as something of an occasion — and a very popular one it is too. A special festive afternoon tea is being launched this month. Like I say, though, you might want to plan a walk on nearby Dartmoor to work off the indulgence — or perhaps simply enjoy a long afternoon of relaxation in the Gaia Spa . Sidebar 1: Seasonal Menus with a Michelin Chef Boringdon’s Àclèaf restaurant offers a choice between the signature four-course tasting menu (£130 per person) and the newly introduced seven-course tasting experience (£180pp) , each featuring optional wine or sparkling wine pairings from the cellar. Chef Scott Paton says of his new seasonal offering: “Indulge in the essence of autumn with a menu showcasing the finest sustainable ingredients from the South West. Savour the rich, earthy flavours of wild venison harvested from Devon estates, paired with the delicate, pristine brill from Brixham. Each dish is a celebration of seasonality, crafted to elevate the natural brilliance of these ingredients into a harmonious and unforgettable dining experience.” The menu includes delights such as tuna with truffle and sesame, local crab with curry and mango, turbot with langoustine and green chilli, quail with celeriac and Puy lentil, venison with pear and whisky, and a Comice pear with blackberry and cinnamon. I am happy to go on the record and say that the dinner at Àclèaf was one of the best autumnal feasts in Devon I have enjoyed in a long time. Boringdon Hall: Where Devon’s Past Meets Modern Luxury With its historic architecture , Michelin-starred dining , luxury spa , and proximity to Dartmoor National Park , Boringdon Hall is one of the best hotels in Devon for those seeking a getaway that combines heritage, indulgence, and natural beauty . Whether you come for a romantic weekend , a spa retreat , or a culinary celebration , Boringdon Hall offers the kind of experience that lingers in the memory — a perfect marriage of Devon’s past and present.

Discovering One of Cornwall’s Least Touristy Harbours If you had to make a shortlist of the Westcountry’s finest attributes, then the peninsula’s harbour towns and villages would be near the top. You only have to visit our seaside venues at any time of the year nowadays to know that is the case. Some of the prettiest havens are nowadays filled with visitors summer and winter. Which, to many of us, immediately begs the question… Which are the least visited most untouristy communities by the sea? There aren’t many left, specially down in Cornwall. But I do know of one harbour that has not been turned into a maritime theme-park for the visitors - and I was lucky enough to spend a couple of nights in its wonderful environs recently. Portreath: A Rare Untouristy Haven in Cornwall When it comes to popular Cornish seaside destinations, Portreath has never been top of anyone’s wishlist. Why not? Well, to put it bluntly, this was very much a working harbour. Coal in, copper and tin out. As such, it was not treated with much respect by the people who’ve run the place down the centuries. The mining industry required Welsh coal to power its pumps and whatever, and this was the ideal port through which the black stuff could be imported. Once the coal-yards and ore had gone, the post-industrialised state of the place lent itself to a cheap land-grab by the local authorities, who bunged up inexpensive housing here as an overflow option for nearby Camborne and Redruth. It is the only harbour I know of, in either Cornwall or Devon, that is almost entirely surrounded by a low-cost housing estate. But, in a funny way, this less-than-scenic mix of concrete and cheap-build has helped save the place from the ravishes of tourism. To such an extent that I’d now say that Portreath is one of my favourite seaside towns in Cornwall. It is the only port ‘down west’ that has been subjected to almost zero commercialisation. It has a truly fabulous beach. And it has a soul. Staying in Portreath: The Basset Arms Reborn Which brings me to the hostelry where my wife and I had the good fortune to stay recently. When I first heard that the old Basset Arms, situated just a stone’s throw from the beach at Portreath, had been taken over by the folk from the famous Carbis Bay Estate, I thought perhaps this was the first sign the old coal-harbour was about to go through the process of becoming gentrified. After all, Carbis Bay is what you’d call “high-end”. Prime ministers and American presidents get to stay in the likes of Carbis Bay. And, indeed, the team has brought the brand’s well-known levels of quality and service to Portreath. But… And it is a big but… The small and modest Basset Arms has not been converted into the kind of watering-hole where only the rich need apply. Instead, this historic, end-of-terrace, hostelry has been upgraded into something which could be best described as a very good community pub. It welcomes locals who come in to play darts and pool. It caters for local folk who fancy a meal out at a price that will not break the bank. And it greets Coast Path walkers to stay in its comfortable rooms, located above the busy bar. A Community Pub with Real Cornish Warmth I loved our visit to the Basset Arms. It suited this old journalist to a tee. The staff were wonderfully friendly, nothing was too much trouble. One night we were there, they were preparing their weekly ‘pie, pint and pudding night’, and of course I was more than happy to consume whatever was on offer. It turned out to be the best beef and ale pie I have enjoyed in a long time (superb pastry) and the apple pie hit the same high mark. Quality pie-and-mash, apple-pie and a pint of Tribute all for £21? That’ll do nicely, thank you. I have seen similar elsewhere costing twice as much. The lovely duty-manager, Jody, told me that the majority of diners in the pub that night (it was just about full) were locals, many of whom had come the short distance down from Camborne or Redruth. There was a certainly a jolly buzz about the place. Walking the Coast Path from Portreath The next morning we went for a long and wonderful walk along the coast path west of Portreath which, much to my delight, allowed me to discover a section of the long distance trail I’d never visited before. Why Carbis Bay Invested in Portreath So… The Basset Arms, now refurnished as a kind of annex to the much-celebrated Carbis Bay Estate… What’s all that about? To find the answer I talked to co-owner Kelly Barker, who wasn’t difficult to find as she was waitressing on the pie-and-pint night. She was able to tell me how it was that one of the top hospitality outfits in the South West had decided to invest in the old coal-harbour town. For a start, Kelly is a fan of the concept of community. It was she who first came across the main seaside cafe at Portreath and decided with her friend Stephen Baker, owner of the Carbis Bay Estate, to purchase the lease and run it as a community-led diner. Which she has been doing successfully for the past couple of years. When the lease of the pub, just 100 metres away from the Pod Cafe, came up for grabs earlier this year, it seemed like an obvious extension. “We took over the lease at the end of April and opened the doors on the 29th of July. The whole place needed a complete refurbishment. When we took over, we didn’t think it was going to be quite as much work, but there really wasn’t a halfway house - we had to do it all,” Kelly told me. “And do it sympathetically. We wanted to keep some of the character of what was here before. Having said that, everything needed doing, from the plumbing to the electrics. Every single wall upstairs was taken down. At one point, there were holes through the floor when I was showing potential future staff around!” I observed that the good thing was they’d kept the place a proper pub. “Yes, that was always our intention,” she replied. “There were so many rumours: ‘It's going to be flats,’ ‘It's going to be a posh dining restaurant,’ but we just tried to reiterate, ‘No, it’s going to still be a pub.’ Keeping Portreath Local “We want it to be a community pub, just like the cafe. It’s community-led. We want people to come in, celebrate birthdays, special occasions, get-togethers, and make memories. We wanted it to be very much food led, though, so we really wanted that to be the driving force of the business. “Stephen decided it was a good thing to branch out because that’s what makes Carbis Bay so wonderful - a businesses that branches out with multiple income streams which all support one another. You’ve got a network of staff who can move around the different venues. That’s what we’ve tried to do here in Portreath - we have staff who work in both the pub and the Pod Cafe.” The Basset Arms relationship with the venues at Carbis Bay means that coast path walkers can take advantage of special deals which allow them to stay a night at Portreath, then hike on to the Gannet Arms situated above Carbis Bay. Indeed, we enjoyed a superb lunch at the Gannet Inn while on a tour of the area. A Pub with Heart and Community Spirit I was taken by Kelly’s affection for Portreath. “It has a soul,” she told me. “It has plenty of characters who come in and have a chat. We have all these lovely people who come in on a regular basis - so it’s very much a community pub. If they have a TR postcode or a PL postcode they get 10% discount as well. “So we’re trying to support locals. At the same time we must keep up the quality. We’re able to keep up a consistency, thanks to the chefs and the calibre that comes from Carbis Bay. So there’s a real focus on using the right supplier - being as local as we can and using as much seasonal produce as possible. What we’re doing here is hearty pub food.” Hearty is the word. Warm and hearty would be even better. So if you’re in Cornwall take a trip down the old mining valley from Redruth and enjoy the superb sandy beach, before having lunch or supper in the Basset Arms - and maybe even stay a night or two in the newly revamped rooms. You stand a good chance of seeing Cornwall at its best. To find out more visit https://bassetarms.co.uk/ Portreath Rich In History Colliers were calling at Portreath until just 50 years ago, but if you’d visited 70 or 80 years before that, you’d have found the three linear basins packed with shipping. There are old photos of the dock in its heyday depicting mountains of coal strewn across the yards alongside piles of copper-ore from the neighbouring mines.  Portreath used to be called Bassett’s Cove after the family who, for nine centuries, held title to the neighbouring manor at Trehidy. They helped develop the extensive mineral workings in this corner of Cornwall.  Until 1809 Bassett's Cove was just a fishing village, but exports of copper were beginning to change the area’s fortunes. It was in that year that a tramway - one of the earliest railways in Britain, and the first in Cornwall - was opened linking Portreath to the St Day mine some five miles inland.  For the next 100 years Portreath was one of Cornwall’s busiest harbours with the docks groaning under the weight of Cusgarne and Poldice copper, as well as Redruth tin, and the huge amounts of Welsh coal required to power the mines.   The wild coastline must have given skippers nightmares. Portreath was not an easy port to enter, or leave. Just north of the harbour is Horse Rock and less than a mile offshore is the wedge-shaped Gull Rock - between these two the fleet would sometimes be forced to anchor for days waiting for the swell to die down. Even in light airs the Atlantic could cause problems - in the early 1800’s William Jenkin, a merchant from Redruth, counted 28 boats riding out beyond the breakers waiting to enter port. There would often be just as many ships inside the harbour waiting to leave. During the previous century this could be a very grim anchorage indeed. The tinners of the Camborne area were an infamous lot keen to supplement their meagre wages with a bit of wrecking. On Christmas Eve 1751 they found a Spanish ship laden with logwood, indigo, silver coin and bullion lying wrecked in a cove called Ralph's Cupboard. Needless to say, they had the lot away and tidied up by demolishing the ship until there was nothing left.

Photo by Darren Welsh  on Unsplash   Cornwall is known by many for its dramatic cliffs and sprawling sandy beaches, but what few people outside of the county get to experience is the powerful identity of the area that’s rooted in hundreds of years of history. Its mining and maritime heritage have inspired a culture of people who love the land – a rendition of “Cornwall My Home” performed in a local pub packs enough punch to leave even the most impervious visitors deeply moved and charmed. When it comes to food, Cornwall’s dishes are also influenced by the cultural identity of past generations. There’s hevva cake, enjoyed on St Piran’s Day, stargazy pie, served on Tom Bawcock’s Eve, and pasties enjoyed any time, any place ( once a daily staple of a tin miner’s diet ). These traditional dishes mean far more than just a delicious meal. Hevva cake Gwikor Frank , Tesenhevva , CC BY-SA 4.0   This crumbly teacake is usually made from a mixture of flour, butter, lard, sugar and dried fruit. It’s a traditionally frugal dish, but one that’s sweet, comforting, and enjoyed throughout Cornwall. Hevva cake was traditionally made by fishermen’s wives to welcome their husbands home from a successful fishing trip. Hevva is also known as “heavy” cake, but despite its namesake, it’s more dense than weighty. In fact, hevva is derived from the Cornish “hes va”, which doesn’t mean “heavy” at all. It loosely translates to “there’s a shoal here” – a call that the fishermen’s wives would once listen out for as a sign that it was time to start baking the dish. If you’re visiting Cornwall during spring, it’s worth enjoying the St Piran’s Day festivities  on March 5th, when hevva cake is traditionally served. You’ll also find live music, parades, and a number of other culinary treats if you get involved in the celebrations. Stargazy pie   Kernow Skies, Stary gazy pie , CC BY-SA 3.0 Stargazy pie looks rather more impressive than any pie you’ll have seen before. The dish, which originates from the small fishing village of Mousehole, consists of pilchers or sardines which are baked in a pastry crust. It’s presented with the fish heads and tails popping out of the top of the pie, as if they were gazing at the stars. The dish was created to commemorate Tom Bawcock, a 16th-century fisherman who braved stormy seas to catch enough fish for a huge pie, which ultimately saved his village from starvation. Tom Bawcock’s Eve  is celebrated annually on the 23rd of December. In addition to sampling the famous pie, you’ll get to enjoy music and a colourful lantern procession if you happen to be visiting Mousehole at this time of year. Cornish pasty Image by Sylwester Lukaszonek  from Pixabay Then, of course, there’s the Cornish pasty, one of the most well-known symbols of Cornish culture. Once reserved for the upper classes and filled with a variety of rich meats, fish, gravy and even fruit, the Cornish pasty was later adopted by the working classes in the 17th and 18th centuries – mainly farm workers and miners – and evolved to consist mainly of vegetables as a result. The thick, crimped crust that many of us savour today as the best bit of the dish once served a very practical purpose, allowing miners to hold their pasties without contaminating the part to be eaten with arsenic from the mines. Today, you’ll find shops and cafés selling pasties almost everywhere you go in Cornwall. This hearty snack is something every foodie should treat themselves to upon stepping foot in the county. With meat, fish, vegetarian, and plant-based versions to choose from, nobody misses out. Take a look at Skyscanner’s food trends and travel data  and you’ll see just how great an influence our appetites can have on the places we choose to explore. There are new dishes to be discovered around every corner, no matter where you are in the world – many of them with impressive stories to tell. Sample these Cornish favourites and you’ll gain a deeper understanding of the history, culture and passion of the county’s people.

Robber's Bridge is one of a handful of places to which I return again and again. Weir Water, deep in the bosom of Exmoor, and Robber's Bridge in particular, is always worth a visit - even in high summer when visitors arrive in hordes because they are told the place is the 'real Doone Valley'. Robber's Bridge on Exmoor It isn't, although in the book Jan Ridd, hero of the famous tale, worked his way up the beautiful, haunting, stream tickling for trout when he was a boy. On a blue, cloudless autumn day, I can think of few places I'd rather be. It is the antithesis of industrialised Europe. The great wild steppe of high Exmoor curves down from Hawkcombe Head, Black Mires and Kittuck Moor and, high above, a solitary buzzard flits his great wings with a flash of westering light; a young, hindless, stag makes off towards featureless Outer Alscott and Jan Ridd's fingerlings flicker in the merry stream while a fat crop of fungi rots under the golden leaves of turning woods. Things have changed a little bit since I used to come here as a child with my father, who was forever writing fanciful newspaper columns about the place. I can't imagine why he had nothing better to do but, judging by his cuttings file, the old boy was inordinately drawn to the Doones. He was forever quoting a man called Sir Atholl Oakley who had it in for the Ordnance Survey cartographers. They were the ones who insisted on calling the place the Doone Valley. Sir Atholl obviously had his way in the end because Outdoor Leisure Map 9 has the correct appellation of Weir Water. And, as I say, there have been one or two other changes. Like, for instance, the barbed wire and the electric fence. For hundreds of years farmers got along without these brutal barriers - so why do they need the wretched things now? This valley, for some reason, has sprouted more than its fair share. Another change is the "Circular Walk Around Weir Water". A small wooden sign points left as you stroll out of the car park near the bridge and I, for one, was in no mood to argue with it. Last time I was up here I did a kind of double hike with a second loop in the other direction, once we'd regained Robber’s Bridge, but yesterday we were content to merely do the mile and a half up and around Weir Water. We turned left out of the Robber's Bridge car park, found the circular trail and followed it up Weir Water. And very, very, lovely it was too. If you want to walk further you can return to the bridge, find the steep bridleway that leads up to Culbone Inn, follow it, turn left and descend down Deddycombe to Oare. Then it's simply a matter of wandering back up the stream-side lane. That will give you a five mile figure-of-eight in one of the West Country's most picturesque corners - not bad for a weary walks writer who dreams of sleep and rest. If it had been raining, I could have saved myself yet more trouble by quoting my old dad: "As we left the car at Robber's Bridge and began to walk up Weir Water, there were big, heart-broken rain clouds marching over Black Hill and pushing their shadows up the sunlit slopes of Weirwood Common in a most ominous fashion." Would you believe the old boy wrote an entire column on the subject of getting wet. Journalists had it easy in those days... At least it didn't rain on me - instead the sun belted down with force so that the weirs in Weir Water looked almost bathe-able. They say that's why it's called Weir Water by-the-way, because ridges of rock protrude into the stream at regular intervals causing it to pool into what is, in effect, a long flight of natural weirs. To quote from The Waters of Exmoor, written by Noel Allen: “After its shallow start the Weir Water valley slowly deepens, the sides heather-hung for most of the way especially at this top end. The stream meanders from side to side with many of the loops marshy, and in a few places it has washed close enough under the valley sides to carve out brief sections of high rock walls. The bank sides or a mixture of heather, bracken, and grasses, with hawthorn and rowan the chief bushes, plus a good variety of moorland plants. “The ring ouzel, wheatear, and whinchat all nest high in the valley, and also the rare merlin on occasions.” The first thing you find on the circular route is a marvellous boardwalk which takes you dry-shod across a muddy section. Then we enter a magical zone where hillocky meadows melt into woods and where giant mushrooms can grow beside the path in season. In once found a horse-mushroom here as big as a dinner plate - the great disc of the cap alone hit the scales at exactly one pound and it flavoured a wild mushroom risotto all by itself. The circular route leads into the wildest depths of Weir Water, and then gives up, crosses the river and returns along the southern bank under the steep flanks of Mill Hill. Recommended map: Exmoor Outdoor Leisure 9.

Child of the Fjord: A Return to the Rugged Magic of Boscastle The mouth of the inlet at Boscastle When you’re a child, some places hit deep. I don’t know why this may be, but it does seem to be the case that some locations can have a profound effect so strong that you remember them many, many years later. Boscastle  is one such place for me. I distinctly recall being stunned by its wild and rugged beauty as a boy. If we ever went to Cornwall on holiday, I was forever pestering my parents about a return visit to this strange, fjord-like indentation on the north coast. Perhaps that word had something to do with it. I’d read about the drama of Norwegian fjords and rather liked the idea that there were places in this world where the ocean managed to creep deep inside a bold and rocky hinterland. Looking into the inlet at Boscastle Where Saltwater and Rock Meet The north Cornish hills are big, but they ain’t mountains—however, they are pretty steep and, where they meet the sea, they are rugged in the extreme. The steep winding valley created by the Valency stream really does allow the ocean to come tip-toeing into this landmass. The saltwater is like an ambassador from some different and distant land. It allows the onlooker to experience the feeling of being deep within the security of a landmass while at the same time being confronted by the frenetic dance of a vast ocean. Unless you take one of the little paths either side of the harbour, you cannot see that ocean—its wide and wild horizon is hidden from view. Take a look at our South West Coast Path guide here It is a secret place where saltwater and rock play. When there’s been a storm at sea, the blow-hole below Penally Point at the mouth of the fjord puffs great arcs of spray like a dragon. I loved it as a boy, and still feel profoundly attracted to it now. Because not much has changed at Boscastle, and I doubt it ever will. The Wellington, Boscastle The Wellington: A Staging Post for the Centuries One large and permanent feature that’s been around for centuries is the magnificent old coaching inn. The Wellington  has been making guests welcome in Cornwall since the 16th Century. Long before the motor car conquered the Atlantic Highway, it was a vital staging post for weary travellers braving the windswept journey across those north Cornish hills. The pub is down at the heart of the harbour village, perfectly placed for walks along the South West Coast Path . Recently purchased by St Austell Brewery , the pub now features 14 beautifully refurbished rooms and three apartments—including turret rooms that make the most of the establishment’s castle-like features. “The refurbishment takes inspiration from the pub’s woodland and coastal surroundings, introducing dusky greens, warm reds, and burnt yellows to enhance the cosy charm,” says a St Austell Brewery spokesperson. As has been the case with Hesp Out West  visits to other refurbished St Austell properties, The Wellington was no exception when it came to the impressive extent of the work. They have gone the extra mile in retaining that essential "old coaching inn atmosphere." The bar area at The Wellie, Boscastle Walking in the Footsteps of Thomas Hardy One member of the friendly staff told me the turret room my wife and I were staying in used to be frequented by a certain Thomas Hardy . I could readily believe it. The great writer spent significant time in the area while working as a young architect on local churches, including St Juliot’s, which he saved from dilapidation in 1870. Valency Valley near St Juliot's Church, just after the Boscastle Flood I’ve often tried to imagine the evening on March 3rd of that year when the young poet arrived at the local rectory to be met by Emma Gifford. The seeds of romance were sown in this remote spot, even if their eventual marriage did not stand the test of time. The Wellington’s early guest book is a “who’s who” of Victorian heavyweights. Not only did Hardy stay, but King Edward VII and Sir Henry Irving were also said to have found solace here. Planning Your Visit We had a marvellous dinner at "The Wellie," followed by a really good breakfast. Our night in the turret room promoted a warm, nostalgic feeling of times-past. For more information, visit:   wellingtonhotelboscastle.com Current Deal:  St Austell Brewery is currently offering Cosy Breaks – 33% off  for stays up to 22nd March 2026. Use code: COSY2026  when booking by 22nd February. Boscastle Harbour Sidebar: A Brief History of Boscastle’s Secret Harbour If you’ve got the only navigable inlet along 40 miles of coast, you are always going to be in business. Boscastle made hay for centuries through maritime commerce. In their booklet Brief History of Boscastle , Rod and Anne Knight note that the harbour area was once a hub for fish cellars, smithies, and spirit stores. Ancient Roots:  Iron Age settlers and Romans have both left their mark here, with over 100 Roman coins found locally. The Quays:  Squire Sir Richard Grenville built the inner quay in 1584. The northern pier was later damaged by a WWII sea mine in 1947 and eventually rebuilt by the National Trust. The 2004 Flood:  While Atlantic storms are common, the "Miracle of Boscastle" occurred in August 2004 when the Valency stream rose after seven-and-a-half inches of rain fell in a few hours. I was one of the first journalists on the scene at dawn the next day, awed by the devastation but relieved that no one perished. Looking down Boscastle Harbour

Anyone who reads The Cornish Snapper: The granite Mystery will come across lovely, magical, Porthgwarrra, located as far west as you can get on the Cornish coast. Here is an article and a podcast all about this most magical of places... Some people suffer from the January blues here in the northern hemisphere and someone just asked us to recommend a place in the UK to which they could escape and recharge their batteries. Porthgwarra, the tiny fishing cove tucked in its shallow, sheltered valley just south of Land’s End that is a little corner of paradise perched upon the very edge of our green and pleasant land. So charming and somehow cosy is little known Porthgwarra, that it is one place I’d consider living in if I weren’t ensconced in my native hills.  The valley dips from the high plateau of West Penwith taking with it a stream, accompanied by all manner of bird-filled thickets surrounded by wild flowers. Up at the higher reaches, ancient farmsteads lurk as if they’ve been here since the very granite rock itself was born, but lower down there’s a scattering of cottages old and not so old – with the odd 1920s shack thrown in for romantic measure. Take a look out our South West Coast Path guide here This attractively cluttered, secluded and protected vale eventually terminates at the cove itself, but it’s not a simple meeting of rock and wave. The soft, partly decomposed granite has been eaten away in different chunks so that a mini-headland is able to jut into the middle of the cove. An old stone slipway stretches down to the sand on one side, but on the other access can be gained through a rough hewn tunnel, carved many years ago by local miners to help farmers glean seaweed from the beach.  This somewhat cluttered indentation of the coast has a strange picturesque quality that creates a romance all of its own. The various tunnels carved here and there in the soft rock suggest an age of swashbuckle and smuggling, though most were dug and blasted for prosaic workaday reasons. But there’s something extra wild about the sea out here in the far west. It may be a mere nuance born of a journalist’s fancy – but I’d swear it looks more angry and potentially more perilous than elsewhere. After all, England’s ultimate corner, Land’s End, lies just around the corner from Gwennap Head. And just offshore there’s the clanging buoy that marks the dreaded Runnel Stone – a needle that has taken countless mariners to a watery grave.  There’s almost always seal or two lurking in the cove at Porthgwarra, as if to remind visitors that they really are halfway to a world that is more water and wave than rock and soil. I’d recommend a stay in one of St Aubyn Estate cottages at Porthgwarra

I wouldn’t put this up in summer - these beaches can get crowded. or some of them can - not all. But now autumn is arriving you might go to any of these and find yourself alone. Which would be wonderful…. Anyway, this is my shortlist of 10 Great West Country Beaches Take a look at our South West Coast path guide here Pedn Vounder beach with the tide almost in, West Cornwall Pedn Vounder: My No1 favourite. Just thinking of its perfect rocks, sea and sand makes me want to jump in the car and drive the 160 miles it would take to reach this westerly spot. Pity it’s so distant in furthest West Penwith - and, be warned, the climb down requires you to hang on to a rope.  Woolacombe beach strethces south Woolacombe: The antithesis to Pedn Vounder. Easy-to-reach, huge, extremely popular… But the crowds don’t go there for nothing - fabulous sand and surf, this is England’s answer to California. And you can always escape the hordes by walking along the dunes to Baggy Point. Beer beach in east Devon Beer Not the booze but the wonderful old-fashioned cobble beach under the East Devon village of that name… Think: excellent tea-shops located in wooden beach huts, clinker-built motorboats you can hire, fishermen hauling their crab boats up on winches and local families who’ve been hanging out here for summertime decades. A lot of beaches on St Martins St Martins Bay, Isles of Scilly: Simply the best, finest, white sand to be found anywhere in Europe. This is where the West Country turns into the Caribbean - the blue-green waters are so clear you can see that fine white sand 40 feet down when you are snorkelling. Remote. Beautiful. Unforgettable.  Doniford: The opposite of the above. You can’t see a single inch through the waters on this Bristol Channel beach. It is not even very beautiful - at least, not in a classic way. But it is fascinating. Daniel Defoe thought so when he came here in 1724. He was amazed at the large fossils that he found dotted among the great natural stone pavements. Maceley Cove: If you adore distant, empty coves where a small horseshoe of sand is bordered by rocks and pools and a restless, crystal-clear sea, the n Maceley Cove is for you. So wonderfully wild, picturesque and oddly foreign are the environs around the charming little village of East Prawle - that the area long ago ascended straight to the top of my list of favourite places. Porthcothan: One of the finest beaches on the North Cornish coast. Great sand and surf, with plenty of alluring rock-pools when the tide goes down. You might even recognise the place where Ross Poldark in the recent TV series forever galloped along the top of the cliffs. Lantic Bay: Another small horseshoe of sand bordered by rocks and pools and crystal-clear sea classic… And like Maceley and so many other coves, a bit difficult to reach on foot from nearby Polruan. Which is why this one is so popular with boating beach-goers all summer long.  Portheras Cove: Another West Penwith special. Portheras, tucked away under the Pendeen Watch Lighthouse, is a jewel among coves. A golden sand beach of near perfect proportions. A remote bit of rocky littoral that hangs in the mind like a beautiful dream. A fabulous, oceanic, ozone-filled dream… Vault Beach: On the Roseland Pensinsula in Cornwall, tucked away miles from nowhere somewhere between Mevagissy and Dodman Point. One of the true sandy jewels in the West Country crown. Watch out for nudists!