From Glaciers to Palms: The Ultimate Alpine Journey There are train journeys, and then there is the Bernina Express. Connecting Chur—Switzerland’s oldest city—with Tirano across the Italian border, this bright red narrow-gauge train negotiates 55 tunnels, 196 bridges, and steep inclines without the use of a rack-and-pinion cog system. In roughly four hours, the landscape shifts dramatically: you depart the crisp alpine meadows of Graubünden, climb past frozen glacier lakes at over 2,200 metres above sea level, and descend into the vine-terraced warmth of Italy's Valtellina valley. The line up from the Swiss town of Chur is one of the only railways to have been granted World Heritage Site status. And just about every inch of it deserves the accolade. Basically, the famous Bernina Express connects Chur with Poschiavo and Tirano in Northern Italy by crossing an extremely tall range of mountains. The entire trip is a four hour journey that crosses 196 bridges and passes through 55 tunnels. Its highest point is the Bernina Pass at an altitude of 2,253 metres. Originally known as the Albula line, it was constructed between 1898 and 1904, and has been operated by the Rhaetian Railway ever since. Captivated by high-altitude train journeys and alpine scenery? Explore my comprehensive Switzerland Travel Guide: Unspunnen, Alpine Culture, Historic Rails & Mountain Flavours for more features on iconic Swiss railways, historic mountain hotels, cultural traditions, and regional food heritage. Exploring Switzerland by Rail and Road? Discover more scenic routes, hidden alpine valleys, and regional culinary travel features in my Swiss Travel Hub. After it reaches the Albula River and crosses the Landwasser Viaduct the train must start ascending at a rate which doesn’t come easily for extremely heavy machinery on steel rails. What this means is spirals – and, in rail terms, spirals mean only the finest Swiss engineering need apply… The way in which the line corkscrews up through tunnels inside mountains only to come out in to the daylight and leap across impossibly deep gorges via elegant stone viaducts is one of the finest examples of mankind overcoming natural barriers that I’ve ever seen. Eventually, this insane but thrilling railway emerges from a particularly long tunnel out onto the Engadine plain, where it turns upstream to head for St. Moritz station (at 1,775 metres in altitude). Our first duty next day was to climb back aboard the train and head upwards once again – this time up to Alp Grüm, on the Swiss-Italian border. If we thought the previous day’s section of the Bernina Express had surpassed all other railways by getting us up to St Moritz, we were wrong… Engineering Marvels of the Rhaetian Railway Part of the Rhaetian Railway's UNESCO World Heritage network, the route is a triumph of early 20th-century civil engineering. The Landwasser Viaduct: Rising 65 metres above the Landwasser gorge, the train curves gracefully over soaring limestone arches directly into a cliffside tunnel face. Ospizio Bernina: Reaching the high point of the line at 2,253 metres, the train passes the turquoise, glacier-fed Lago Bianco (White Lake) and the dark, spring-fed Lej Nair (Black Lake). The Brusio Circular Viaduct: To handle a steep drop in elevation near the Italian border, the track loops 360 degrees over a stone viaduct, allowing the train to lose height gracefully in a tight spiral. The winding, grinding, trundling ascent over one of Europe’s highest watersheds is breathtaking – and even in autumn before the ski season had begun in earnest we were treated to frozen, white, crystalline panoramas up there at high altitude. In this high cold zone, it was most comforting indeed to learn we’d be lunching at an old fashioned rail-side stopping place called Ristorante Alp Grüm. Alp Grüm: A Lunch Break Above the World One of the highlight stops along the route is Alp Grüm, an isolated station perched on a cliff edge at 2,091 metres. Accessible only by train or on foot, the station terrace overlooks the sprawling Palü Glacier and the sweeping Poschiavo valley below. Stopping here for a warm coffee or local Graubünden barley soup while watching the red carriages snake along the mountainside is an unforgettable experience. I liked the place immensely, not only because of its stunning views, nor solely for its welcoming, old-fashioned atmosphere, which harked back to spy-movies of yesteryear – but because I enjoyed a huge plate of Pizzoccheri. This is a local speciality involving vegetables and cheese bought from nearby mountain farms – all tossed hot with a dense, nutty, dark coloured pasta made from buckwheat. The food was simple and wonderful – but once your high altitude hunger has abated, it’s those views and the mountains that make the long trip all the way from the West Country worth the while – even if you’re only there for a weekend like we were. I vow to return and stay in the restaurant’s small, homely hotel so that I can go off walking among these high and dramatic peaks. Indeed, despite the first snowfall of the year, I was to enjoy at least a brief closer glimpse of the neighbouring mountains… Our next stop was back down the line towards St Moritz to a place where we took a large cable car (capable of carrying 100 passengers) up to the Diavolezza. The name means She-Devil in the local Italian - and I can only assume this refers to the height of the peaks and the all too apparent dangers that could overtake the unwary traveller in such a vertiginous place. The cable car ascends to the middle of a great white cup in the mountains and terminates at a large modern restaurant which is the first in this region to open to skiers each year. We were there on the very first day of the season and for a country hick like me, it was amazing to see all the glamorous young things peeling off their thick ski apparel to sunbathe in deckchairs which they’d placed in deep snow. The icy white blanket at their feet was not only used for skiing, but as a natural cold storage for their bottles of champagne. Bernina Express Fact File Overview The Bernina Express is a renowned scenic train route that offers passengers a spectacular journey through the Swiss Alps, connecting Chur in Switzerland to Poschiavo and further to Tirano in northern Italy. Operated by the Rhaetian Railway, this route is celebrated for its breathtaking views and engineering marvels. Route Details Starting Point: Chur, Switzerland Ending Point: Tirano, Italy Key Stop: Poschiavo, Switzerland Length: Approximately 122 kilometers (76 miles) from Chur to Tirano Duration: Around 4 hours Geographical Highlights Landwasser Viaduct: An iconic six-arch structure plunging into a tunnel in the sheer cliff face. Brusio Circular Viaduct: A unique spiral viaduct essential for managing the altitude difference in a limited space. Morteratsch Glacier: Offers views of the third largest glacier in the Eastern Alps. Alp Grüm: Panoramic views of the Palü Glacier and a popular stop for hikes. Technical Specifications Track Gauge: Metre gauge Traction: Electric Highest Point: Ospizio Bernina, at 2,253 meters (7,392 feet) above sea level, the highest point on the Rhaetian Railway network. UNESCO World Heritage Site Since 2008, the Bernina Express route, together with the Albula Railway, has been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, acknowledged for its harmonious blend of technical, architectural, and environmental mastery. Seasonal Operations Summer: Features lush green landscapes and full operational capacity, including the open-air cars for an immersive experience. Winter: Provides a dramatic, snowy spectacle, with the train often seen winding through pristine white snowscapes. Cultural Impact The Bernina Express is more than just a train journey; it is a cultural icon that showcases the heritage and engineering prowess of Switzerland while providing a crucial link between the Swiss and Italian regions it serves. The journey not only connects geographic points but also cultures, making it a vital route for both tourism and local commuting. Experience Passengers can expect a comfortable journey with large panoramic windows designed to offer expansive views of the dramatic landscapes. The train typically includes amenities such as audio guides available in multiple languages, detailing the historical and environmental significance of the vistas and landmarks along the route. Conclusion The Bernina Express offers a unique combination of natural beauty and engineering excellence, making it one of the most picturesque and technically fascinating train journeys in the world. Whether for the avid rail enthusiast or the casual tourist, this train journey promises an unforgettable experience crossing the heart of the Alps. Frequently Asked Questions: Riding the Bernina Express **Is seat reservation required on the Bernina Express?** Yes. While standard local trains run along the exact same tracks without reservations, the official Bernina Express panoramic cars require a seat reservation fee in addition to a valid ticket or rail pass (such as the Swiss Travel Pass). **Which side of the train offers the best views?** When traveling south from Chur to Tirano, sit on the **right-hand side** for the best views of the Landwasser Viaduct, the Palü Glacier, and the Brusio Circular Viaduct. **Can you ride the route on regional local trains instead?** Yes! Regular regional trains operate on the same UNESCO tracks. They don't require seat reservations, feature windows that open (ideal for photography), and allow you to hop on and off freely at scenic stops like Alp Grüm.

The Jungfrau Railway in Switzerland presents a unique travel experience, offering a journey through the Swiss Alps to one of the highest points accessible by train in Europe. Starting Point and Route Up The Jungfrau The journey to Jungfraujoch, often referred to as the "Top of Europe," begins in Interlaken, situated between Lake Thun and Lake Brienz. From Interlaken, passengers typically transfer to a train heading towards Kleine Scheidegg, a mountain pass which serves as the interchange station for the Jungfrau Railway. The Engineering Feat The Jungfrau Railway, completed in 1912, is a notable engineering achievement. It involves a 9.3-kilometre-long track, much of which runs through a tunnel inside the Eiger and Mönch mountains. This engineering feat was a significant undertaking at the time of its construction and remains an impressive example of mountain railway technology. Stations and Scenic Views Throughout the journey, the train makes brief stops at two stations, Eigerwand and Eismeer, both of which have windows carved into the mountain, offering views of the Alpine landscape. These stops allow passengers to glimpse the surrounding mountain peaks and glaciers. Arrival at Jungfraujoch Upon reaching Jungfraujoch station, located at an altitude of 3,454 metres, visitors find several attractions. This includes an observatory, an Ice Palace featuring ice sculptures, and various viewing platforms. The Sphinx Observatory, one of the highest astronomical observatories in the world, provides extensive views of the Aletsch Glacier and surrounding peaks. We were there with an odd bunch of people - many of whom were dressed in Victorian costume. There were also a number of journalists on the trip and we all, perhaps, had a little too much wine with lunch. I had the worst headache I’ve ever had up at the top of the Jungfrau and coming down - which will teach me to drink alcohol at very high altitudes. Planning a scenic rail adventure or exploring the Swiss Alps? Discover my comprehensive Switzerland Travel Guide: Unspunnen, Alpine Culture, Historic Rails & Mountain Flavours for more journeys across legendary mountain railways, historic hotels, local festivals, and culinary heritage. Activities and Facilities Besides the observatory and ice sculptures, Jungfraujoch hosts a range of activities, such as skiing, snowboarding, and hiking, depending on the season. There are also several restaurants and shops, including the Lindt Swiss Chocolate Heaven, a chocolate-themed exhibition. CHECK OUT OUR POST ALL ABOUT THE SHERLOCKIANS VISITING SWITZERLAND BY CLICKING HERE Return Journey The return journey on the Jungfrau Railway follows the same route back to Kleine Scheidegg and onward to Interlaken. This gives passengers another opportunity to view the Alpine landscape from a different perspective. In summary, the Jungfrau Railway offers a unique experience for those interested in experiencing the Swiss Alps via a historic and remarkable mountain railway. The journey combines impressive engineering with stunning natural scenery, culminating in a range of attractions and activities at Jungfraujoch. Planning a scenic rail adventure or exploring the Swiss Alps? Discover my comprehensive Switzerland Travel Guide: Unspunnen, Alpine Culture, Historic Rails & Mountain Flavours for more journeys across legendary mountain railways, historic hotels, local festivals, and culinary heritage.

West Country hill farmers are used to high places, but take three Dartmoor agrarians half way up a Swiss mountain and you might well see them silenced in awe - not only because of the stunning scenery, but because of their astonishment when observing the achievements of their alpine counterparts. 6,000 Feet Above Sea Level: Meeting the Trittens A few years ago I witnessed such an event 6000 feet above sea level on the snow covered slopes of the beautiful Simmental Valley. The three well known Dartmoor farmers - Colin Abel, Mathew Cole and Ed Williams - weren’t silent for long, but they were impressed by the remarkable things farmer Ueli Tritten and his wife Hedi had achieved amid the alpine crags. This is the article I wrote for the Western Morning News having been invited along by the Dartmoor group to visit the Simmental area of Switzerland where they were on a sort of twinning mission… Travel writer Martin Hesp joins Dartmoor farmers in Lenk, Switzerland at the annual dairy event We’d met the Trittens at their classic Swiss chalet winter-farm, down on the floor of the valley, then undertaken a slightly terrifying ride in a four-wheel drive up a dirt and ice track to what’s known as a middle station. High above that, the family has its summer pasture farm just under the peaks of the mountains - but it was at the middle station that we sat down with Ueli who had recently refurbished the farmstead, turning it into a single shelter for both cows and family. Fascinated by rural alpine traditions or planning a journey through the cantons? Explore my comprehensive Switzerland Travel Guide: Unspunnen, Alpine Culture, Historic Rails & Mountain Flavours for more stories on mountain railways, historic hotels, local festivals, and traditional food heritage. The big timber building looked impressive enough on the outside, but when we entered its gleaming portals we discovered the Trittens had also built an impressive subterranean cheese-making plant down in the basement. From this shrine of isolationist agricultural activity, the family produce gold-medal cheeses that are regarded as being among the best in all of Switzerland. We talked over a beer in the amazing new family kitchen surrounded by windows revealing some of the best scenery in the Alps and heard how, collectively, the Dartmoor men were responsible for farming thousands of cattle and sheep. Yet, despite being successful farmers, everyone knows that upland cattle and sheep rearing in the UK is tough, to say the least. The Miracle of the 40-Cow Farm The Trittens keep a meagre 40 milking cows, yet somehow they make a good living. Try pulling that business miracle off on a British farm... Okay, so there are differences between non EU Switzerland and its generous agricultural grant system and our own - but it was the quest to solve this seemingly unanswerable riddle that took a group of Dartmoor farmers and other movers and shakers to Switzerland. Basically it’s the latest part of a ten year long history which has now resulted in an accord being signed that should see an official twinning of the Dartmoor and Simmental areas in the near future. What originally interested various Dartmoor locals, like farmer Andy Bradford who organised the recent trip, about the Swiss was the fact that the Simmental area began focussing on a marriage between tourism and food production long before it was a twinkle in any British marketing guru’s eye. In the high remote alpine valleys tourism and agriculture has been treated as a single element within the region’s economy for over 40 years. Joining the Dots: Why Tourism Needs the Cow They’ve even invented a word for it... Alpculture is a brand that has been devised to promote and sell local produce as well as educate visitors about alpine life. At the very heart of the phrase lies the single truth that says: this place would not look anywhere near as beautiful - and you wouldn't even be able to ski the high slopes - if local farmers didn’t graze the landscape with their cattle. The Swiss understand this equation. As they trundle up from the cities into the mountains to enjoy their skiing, hiking, mountain biking or whatever - they comprehend the importance of supporting the people who live there all the time. They don’t only understand the consequences of buying local produce - they want it. The most common question asked in the Lenk tourist office is: “Where can I buy the best local cheese?” So keen are Swiss visitors to purchase the products of the mountains, there are street-side vending machines selling local cheese and meat which cater for those who need items when the shops are shut. Bringing the Swiss Success to the West Country Can you imagine village streets on Dartmoor (or, for that matter, Exmoor, the Quantocks, Bodmin Moor or West Penwith) playing host to refrigerated vending machines selling local produce? Can you imagine the average British tourist or day-visitor thinking: “This scenery is fabulous. And it’s all here thanks to the traditional farmers and their beasts. I simply must buy some delicious local lamb or beef to take home!” No. Neither can I. Not yet, anyway. But this joined-up thinking - this concept that a landscape can be rich in history and tradition and look the way it does because of the way humans have used it for centuries - is one that we ought to be promoting in the West Country. When Dartmoor farmers like Andy Bradford - along with various hoteliers, tourism bosses and other influential movers and shakers from the moor - discovered the Swiss were making this all-important connection work, they travelled to the Simmental eight years ago to find out more. Out of that trip an organisation called Dartmoor Farmer’s Ltd was born - and now they, along with members of the umbrella group called the Dartmoor Partnership - have been back for what could be described as a refresher tour... It was an exhausting four day visit in which we did everything from meet cheese-makers to dried herb processors (another innovative way Swiss farmers can make a few bob on the side) and Andy, who runs Brimpts Farm in central Dartmoor, told me: “This tour has reenergised our thoughts and stimulated the idea that we must take things forward again. Many things came out of the original trip, but this has been about reminding us what they have achieved in the Simmental. How the marketing, the brand, and all the farming and tourism elements are so well joined-up and organised. “The heritage we have on Dartmoor is beyond belief - world class stuff - we have farming going back 4000 years,” he went on. “I don’t think we quite understand how much we have to offer - and maybe we find it difficult to market it because we are farmers. But now it’s time we reestablished our link with the general public and sold our meat - the last thing we want is to be propped up by subsidies. “If we can explain the value in what we do - the landscape delivery, the aggro-tourism, all those sort of things - that’s what we need to do. In Lenk (the small capital of the Simmental region) they've done all this very well and they have given us a road-map to show us how we can achieve these sort of things.” Colin Abel, chairman of the Dartmoor Farmer’s Association and a fifth generation beef and sheep farmer from Peter Tavy, agreed with Andy’s words: “This trip is about doing more collaborative work between different parties - promoting the farmers and their different products,” he told me. “It’s mainly about getting the tourism people to understand what we can deliver as farmers for them - and them helping us with our products so that we can keep farming in the hills. And also letting the people who come to Dartmoor taste the experience. “We came here eight years ago to see what they were doing here - and that inspired us to get Dartmoor Farmers going. Now we’ve come back and they’ve moved on. The Swiss have developed new products and new relationships with their tourism board. They have their issues, but they are a long way forward compared to us,” said Colin. “The environment here is totally amazing, but we’ve got things which are unique and which people come to see - and it is about selling that story and pushing it a bit harder than we do now,” he concluded. “I know some farmers are sceptical and slow to come on board - but that’s farmers in their nature isn’t it? But surely we should help promote each other - there is an opportunity for a brand in the South West and we should be all behind it.” Among the party of 15 who visited the Simmental was Tom Stratton, the Duchy of Cornwall’s land agent for Dartmoor, who told me: “Whilst the two areas are different in nature there are several similarities. Specifically, the Swiss need to promote tourism and its relationship with the landscape and so do we. “They’ve got a unique environment, as we have on Dartmoor - they have a range of unique products as we do - and they have a real enthusiasm when it comes to promoting them,” said Mr Stratton. “It has been interesting to look at the ways they’re doing that and thinking about how we can do the same on Dartmoor. “The Duchy is a large landowner with 21 farms on Dartmoor and we want to support the businesses and tenants in any way we can. We’re very keen to ensure that the businesses on the moor remain viable both in farming and tourism and we see this as a really good way of bringing them altogether - and sharing ideas with the people in the Simmental.” During the trip in which delegates toured various valleys and mountain peaks, as well as farms, cheese-making factories and tourism outlets, Albert Kruker - director of Lenk-Simmental Tourism - was constantly on hand to advise and explain. Dartmoor and Swiss farmers enjoying a walk in the Simmental He told me: “It is vital that there is an understanding between the people in the tourism sector and the farming sector that each profits from the other. This understanding is well established here. “And the guests who come here understand that if they buy local goods they are helping to sustain the area. Most Swiss people understand this and they are looking for regional goods. They come in to our office all the time and ask: ‘Where can I buy the cheese or the meat directly from the farmer?’” Mr Kruker continued: “Four years ago we registered Alpculture as a trademark for the Simmental area. But we didn’t do anything new - we just collected all the traditional things we were doing anyway in this area that were to do with alpine-living - and tried to put it in a form where guests could experience it. “It’s about the alpine lifestyle. But it’s not just the traditional things - it is also about modern methods of producing cheese and so on - as well as the problems people have in living here. “I tell people: ‘It’s not so easy to live here - it’s not easy to earn the money here - so please buy our goods and the products from our farmers.’ This branding, Alpcutlure, is working very well - we can see it in operation. People, when they first hear it, ask - what is that? But everyone can understand the two words that we’ve put together. “Alongside Dartmoor, we know we experience the same kind of problems. It’s the same starting point. We already have some ideas from our recent visit to Dartmoor when we found you are thinking about the same problems, but you have different solutions. “Maybe we can learn from you and you can learn from us.” The mutual learning is already occurring - although it might be said that the West Country uplands have more to benefit from adopting some kind of “Alpculture” style or brand than anything we can take to the Swiss. As farmer Mat Cole emailed upon our return: “I had a very insightful time and feel re-energised for the Dartmoor challenges ahead!” If that is the kind of positive thinking this simple and unique twinning operation can have between two upland areas, then perhaps the Dartmoor farmers climbing Ueli Tritten’s mountain were mere trailblazers for what should become a regular two-way interchange of ideas.

Every Sherlock Holmes fan knows the story. High above the Swiss village of Meiringen, beside the thunderous Reichenbach Falls, the world's greatest detective battled his arch-enemy Professor Moriarty before plunging into history. A Sherlockian, playing Sherlock Holmes in Switzerland More than 130 years later, that dramatic scene continues to draw devoted Sherlockians from around the world. I joined them on a remarkable pilgrimage through the Bernese Alps, discovering not only the places that inspired Sir Arthur Conan Doyle but also a warm, welcoming community united by one of literature's greatest characters. And I have been very fortunate in my life to have a great many memorable trips abroad. But of all the countless press trips I’ve enjoyed around the world, perhaps the funniest - the one that made me laugh the most - was the week I once spent in Switzerland with the Sherlock Holmes Society of London. Here’s the report I wrote at the time… Peering over a dizzying abyss in central Switzerland I thought long and hard about Dartmoor. If that sounds like a riddle Sherlock Holmes might solve, then know that he was, indeed, the very man who inspired my alpine ponderings. For the abyss in question was filled with the roar of the Reichenbach Falls - and I could see the very spot where Holmes and his arch-rival Professor James Moriarty fought and took their infamous tumble. Moriarty on the Jungfrau, Switzerland Planning a journey to Switzerland or love exploring the Alps? Read my comprehensive Switzerland Travel Guide: Unspunnen, Alpine Culture, Historic Rails & Mountain Flavours for more stories on scenic mountain railways, historic hotels, local festivals, and culinary heritage. Anyone who has read the stories of Sherlock Holmes will know that the world’s first consulting detective did not perish in that terrible cauldron –he disappeared from the world, only to re-emerge in deepest, darkest, Dartmoor eight years later. That is how long it took for Sir Arthur Conan Doyle to revive his most famous creation after the supposed death in The Final Problem. In truth, the writer was fed-up with the sight and sound of Holmes – which is why he killed him off in the fearsome falls above Meiringen. All done and dusted. When you see the gaping abyss that plays host to the 1000 foot high Reichenbach Falls – as Conan Doyle did when he visited Switzerland in 1893 – you know there is no way a living soul could survive the drop. Travel writer Martin Hesp and the Sherlock Holmes statue in Meiringen But, of course, the inhabitant of 221b Baker Street was not of flesh and blood – in fact, the only blood that might have been let was Conan Doyle’s own, because countless thousands of fans around the world were angrily baying for the return of their favourite detective. And they got him – eight years later when Conan Doyle wrote The Hound of the Baskervilles… Even then, Conan Doyle was obviously against the idea of a full resurrection - he set the Dartmoor tale before the vertiginous events that occurred in Switzerland. It wasn’t until two years after the publication of The Hound that a living breathing Sherlock Holmes was brought back for good. In The Adventure of the Empty House his faithful pal Watson is told how the celebrated sleuth had no choice but to fake his own death. If that explains why I was thinking about Dartmoor while peering down the Reichenbach’s fearful chasm, it does not outline what I was doing there. And that is a very strange and jolly tale to tell - one, indeed, worthy of the pen of Dr Watson… Who Are the Sherlockians? According to the Sherlock Holmes Society of London, Sherlockians are dedicated enthusiasts, scholars, and fans who share a deep interest in the life, world, and adventures of Sherlock Holmes and Dr. John H. Watson. Rather than just reading the stories passively, Sherlockians traditionally engage in "the grand game"—treating the legendary detective and his chronicler as real historical figures, and Sir Arthur Conan Doyle as merely Watson’s literary agent. The society welcoming these enthusiasts was founded in January 1951, sparked by a highly successful festival exhibition that recreated 221B Baker Street. Today, the global community of Sherlockians brings together people from all walks of life. There are no entrance exams or formal introductions required to join; members simply share a passion for the Victorian detective's world, actively participating in scholarly research, publishing journals, attending dinners, and embarking on thematic excursions. As it happened, he was there with me. So was Holmes. And 221b housekeeper Mrs Hudson, and the brother Mycroft Holmes - along with Sir Henry Baskerville and a chap from the Red Headed League. There was Irene Adler – the only person who ever out-foxed the great detective. We had a military presence too in the form of Colonels Warburton, Carruthers, Sebastian-Morran and Lysander-Stark, ably abetted by a scattering of aristocrats such as Lady Frances Carfax, Lord Robert St Simon and Lady Alicia Whittington. We even had royalty – there was the King of Bohemia and the Queen of Scandinavia – and, last but not least, Queen Victoria herself. Very important, these last folk. Because the Swiss like a bit of ceremony – so everywhere we went in that truly beautiful land, we were wined and dined - and our pet royals were generally bowed and scraped to… Which is as it should be when the worldwide organisation called the Sherlock Holmes Society of London goes on its occasional pilgrimage to Meiringen and the Reichenbach Falls. They only do it once every seven years and when they do… Well, a very big song and dance it is – the likes of which I have never seen before and probably will never see again. With one exception – the Sherlockians have invited me along when they do their next pilgrimage to Hound of the Baskerville country – an event I look forward to hugely. Why the Swiss tourist board invited me to witness the recent pilgrimage is a mystery not even Holmes could explain – unless, of course, it was in the hopes I’d write something about their scenic country in the process of describing the slow, sometimes hilarious, always grand and totally colourful progress of 75 society members dressed as characters from the Conan Doyle books. Even at Heathrow I knew it was going to be a very different sort of press trip - while on pilgrimage the Sherlockians go everywhere in costume and in character. For all I know they might even go to bed in their roles. They certainly turned a few heads on the Swiss Air jet to Zurich and brought the international airport to a standstill. Then it was first class train to Interlaken where the entire town had turned out to greet us by putting on a massive parade from the station to the five star Victoria-Jungfrau Grand Hotel and Spa where an official welcome was made by the mayor. There were vintage cars, horses and carts, men clanging unbelievably huge cow-bells, Swiss maids, William Tell look-alikes, the lot… Queen Victoria made a gracious speech explaining to the mayor how the English had invented tourism and how Conan Doyle had even (and this is true) invented the concept of downhill skiing as a sport. So, as she put it, we would happily slurp down their copious liquid hospitality because the Swiss had a lot to thank us for… And so it went on. We toasted, slurped and toasted again, our way around this amazing part of central Switzerland. Our first full day saw us on a train to Meiringen and its infamous waterfall – and I was going to say it is just about as beautiful a train ride as you’ll find anywhere, but the next day we beat it by going on what could easily be a candidate for best train ride in the entire world. Meiringen loves its link with Sherlock Holmes even more than it loves its more authentic connection with meringues – which, in case you didn’t know, were invented there. They sell all sorts of crystallised crisp egg-white concoctions, but we were too busy looking around the Sherlock Holmes Museum and admiring the statue of the detective which has pride of place in the main street to find out more about sweet delicacies. Martin Hesp with Sherlock Holmes in Meiringen And then, just like Holmes and Watson did that fateful day, we went up the Reichenbach. Only, unlike them, we took the excellent funicular that climbs and climbs all the way to a mid-point where you can admire those terrible falls. A path zig-zags right to the top where you can stand on a scary footbridge looking right down into that roaring abyss – and it’s worth the walk because the panoramic views of the vast Meiringen valley are sensational. So much so, that you forget the plight of poor old Watson who was tricked into returning back to their hotel in town so that Moriarty could have his final reckoning with Holmes. In the afternoon we sailed back to Interlaken down the length of Lake Brienz. It’s a proper ferry which services the isolated communities around the lake’s idyllic shores – and if all the other tourists aboard were utterly amazed to be joined by 75 people wearing Victorian garb, they were even more surprised to witness the “ceremonial burial at sea of His Eminence Cardinal Tosca, conducted with the usual obsequies by the Reverend Dr. Shlessinger”. I did not know then what this ceremony was about – nor am I any better informed now, despite the fact that I know about the Sherlock Holmes canon having studied it closely in order to make a film about the detective’s life and times. But then, not everything the Sherlock Holmes Society of London does on pilgrimage is strictly linked to the actual stories. For instance, Holmes and Watson never did go up the Jungfrau – but that is exactly where we all went the next day. Which brings me to what is arguably the best railway journey in the world. We took three trains to reach the summit – and here’s my boast for 2012… Having been allowed to “drive” the funicular down from the Reichenbach, I was given the honour of taking the controls (just for a second) of the second train which took us up the lower flanks of Europe’s second highest mountain. At awesomely scenic Kleine Scheidegg we stopped to switch to the ultimate mountain-climbing-train after being given an official welcome by some big cheese from the Jungfrau Railway, who then invited Queen Victoria to unveil a plaque commemorating the centenary anniversary of his remarkable, near vertical, line. Then we were off upwards, at an alarming gradient, into the 45 degree tunnel that takes you far, far aloft. So far up that the train stops a couple of times and you can walk down side tunnels to windows set in unimaginably high cliffs – which is the only proof you get that you really are a very long way up the insides of a blooming great big mountain. At the very top we were whisked – with much ceremony – through more tunnels up to one of a whole bunch of restaurants and other attractions that have been built in to the bowels of the peak at the head of Europe’s longest glacier. There were more speeches, prayers in Latin – and a great deal more sloshing of wine and eating of food. Which, actually, is not a good idea at the top of the Jungfrau. When you eat a big meal your digestion system demands a great deal of your body’s oxygenated blood supply – which at nearly 12,000 feet can be a bit of a problem if you attempt taking the many steps out to the glacier two at a time. One of my journalist colleagues did something I’ve never seen a living human do before – he turned a livid blue. Once again, the thousands of tourists were agog – and, indeed, it was startling to see 75 Victorians pacing about on a glacier. I have never witnessed so many photographs taken by so many people as I did during the four days I was in Switzerland with the well dressed Sherlockians. And there I shall leave them, on the roof of Europe. I could have told you about more toasts and speeches and more amazing adventures and meals consumed in stunning places like the one we had way up the funicular on the Harder Mountain almost vertically above Interlaken. But I’m going to take a hint from Arthur Conan Doyle and leave the world’s first and greatest consulting detective somewhere up there in all that awesome scenery. In authentic fashion, I shall meet him again when he reappears on Dartmoor. FACT BOX For more information on Switzerland visit www.MySwitzerland.com or call Switzerland Travel Centre on freephone 00800 100 200 30. Swiss International Air Lines do UK to Zurich flights daily as do SWISS. For reservations call 0845 601 0956 or visit: www.swiss.com To find out more about The Sherlock Holmes Society of London visit www.sherlock-holmes.org.uk Planning your own alpine adventure or following literary trails across the Bernese Oberland? Explore my comprehensive Switzerland Travel Guide: Unspunnen, Alpine Culture, Historic Rails & Mountain Flavours for more features on scenic mountain railways, historic hotels, local traditions, and cultural heritage FAQ Section Why is Sherlock Holmes associated with Switzerland? Sir Arthur Conan Doyle chose the spectacular Reichenbach Falls near Meiringen as the setting for Sherlock Holmes' apparent death in The Final Problem, published in 1893. Where are the Reichenbach Falls? The falls are located near the village of Meiringen in the Bernese Oberland, about halfway between Interlaken and Lucerne. Visitors can reach the viewing platform by a historic funicular railway or on foot. Is there a Sherlock Holmes museum in Switzerland? Yes. Meiringen is home to the Sherlock Holmes Museum, dedicated to Sir Arthur Conan Doyle, his famous detective and the history of the stories. Can you visit the place where Holmes fought Moriarty? Yes. A viewing platform overlooks the Reichenbach Falls where the fictional struggle between Holmes and Moriarty is said to have taken place. It remains a major pilgrimage site for Sherlock Holmes fans. Is Meiringen worth visiting if you're not a Sherlock Holmes fan? Absolutely. Meiringen is surrounded by magnificent Alpine scenery, mountain walks and waterfalls, making it an excellent destination even for travellers with little knowledge of the Sherlock Holmes stories.

Few national events can be more colourful or more popular. The Unspunnen Festival is a unique event in central Switzerland which only happens once every 12 years, but which celebrates a nation’s cultural traditions more than any other single fixture I know. The Unspunnen draws some 300,000 people to the Bernese Oberland town of Interlaken - a remarkable number for a country so small. Anything and everything that is truly Swiss gets celebrated over two-weekends - from mountain wrestling to horn-blowing, from boulder-throwing to cheesemaking - the Unspunnenfest is a celebration of all that is, or ever was, alpine life. It declares “Swissness” more than anything, for example, can even come close to saying: “Here is a celebration of Englishness”. It yodels alpine culture. It blasts the life of the various cantons with all the volume of a massive mountain horn. The reason the festival was inaugurated just over 200 years ago is interesting in itself - it was designed to put poorer folk into a better frame of mind at a time when the peasants were revolting all over Europe. The Swiss aristocracy and merchant classes saw what was happening in neighbouring France and decided to sweeten the lot of the hardworking mountain-folk by staging a massive festival where they could strut their stuff and drink free beer. Planning a trip or love exploring the Alps? Read my comprehensive Switzerland Travel Guide: Unspunnen, Alpine Culture, Historic Rails & Mountain Flavours for more stories on mountain trains, historic hotels, local festivals, and culinary traditions. The beer is no longer free, but the folk of the cantons are still strutting their altitudinous stuff. Great fun it is too. Extremely colourful and interesting. If you’re ever lucky enough to witness the Unspunnen, you will feel you have a greater idea what it is to be alpine than anything which skiing or other mountain pastimes can portray. When they invited me to the Unspunnen, my friends at Swiss Tourism suggested a longer stay in the Interlaken area so that I could enjoy both the incredible scenery and some of the visitor-delights. There is a great deal of cultural diversity - but only from a canton-to-canton perspective. During the three hour parade, which is the highlight of the duodecimal event, I saw not a single person representing another ethnicity. There were, however, a great many Indians, Chinese and Arabic people in the vast crowd - and they seemed to be enjoying the weird and wonderful displays even if they were all uniquely Swiss. But of course, Switzerland is sometimes criticised in the wider world for being a country which tends to keep its doors shut to immigration. Its border policies would delight some of our more rabid right-wingers. As a nation, it clings to its Swiss identity even more keenly than some Scottish or Welsh (or Cornish) separatists would have for our own home nations. Having said that, Swiss towns and cities do have a degree of ethnic diversity - and I can tell you that many of those families were aboard the trains coming to and from Interlaken the weekend I visited the Unspunnen. They seemed to be enjoying this once-in-a-generation celebration of traditional Swissness as much as anyone else. In the UK the nearest we get to such a regional celebration is the traditional Highland Games staged in Scotland. Here in England it would be our county shows - although, in comparison to the Unspunnenfest, they’d score less than one-out-of-ten when it comes to celebrating true localness. I do not believe that, today, you could invent such an event for Britain - or certainly not for England. Many urban-dwellers would say the concept is no longer relevant. Some, I’m sure, would even find it offensive and regard it as a celebration of an England that harked back to the bad old colonial days. Others would sneer and say it was just a commemoration of rusticity, enjoyed by backward and boring country folk. Which makes me wonder if have we learned to dismiss our past? Are the English building a Guy Fawkes bonfire (I’ve heard complaints about the political incorrectness of that November party) under their traditions, which some may regret one day? Will there come a time when our future generations ask what went on back in the old days when localness and regional pride actually meant something? What happens then - the danger of destroying a culture - is there is a backlash when people start reinventing tradition in order to comply with newfound ideals of nationalism. Adolf Hitler did just that - and it unleashed a tsunami of evil under the guise of some mad, dreamed up idea, of what was Germany. Planning a journey to Switzerland or love exploring the Alps? Read my comprehensive Switzerland Travel Guide: Unspunnen, Alpine Culture, Historic Rails & Mountain Flavours for more stories on scenic mountain railways, historic hotels, local festivals, and culinary heritage. Frequently Asked Questions About the Unspunnen Festival How often does the Unspunnen Festival take place? The full Unspunnen Festival (Unspunnenfest) is a duodecimal event held only once every twelve years in Interlaken, Switzerland. The next full festival is scheduled for summer 2029. (A smaller, six-yearly Unspunnen wrestling tournament also takes place between full festival cycles). What happens at the Unspunnenfest? The festival is Switzerland's premier celebration of alpine heritage and "Swissness." It brings together participants from all 26 cantons for traditional Schwingen (Swiss alpine wrestling in sawdust rings), the famous Steinstossen (stone-hurling competitions), alphorn playing, yodelling, flag-throwing, and a massive three-hour traditional costume parade through Interlaken. What is the Unspunnen Stone? The Unspunnen Stone (Unspunnenstein) is an iconic 83.5-kilogram (184 lb) natural glacial rock hurled by competitors in a contest of strength. The original stone dates back to the first festival in 1805. Why was the Unspunnen Festival created? The festival was inaugurated in 1805 near the ruins of Unspunnen Castle. It was created by local officials to foster national unity and bridge relations between rural alpine farmers and urban populations in the wake of the French Revolution and the collapse of the Old Swiss Confederacy.

It’s amazing how things can stick in your mind, even if they are all to do with ancient history. I was thinking this recently when I snapped our photo of a Viking long boat on its moorings on a lake in deepest darkest Jutland and it reminded me of my childhood. Just opposite my old West Country school there was a field called Battle Gore, the legend of which used to fill us boys with wonder and awe. A huge battle was once fought right there in our own little village. Wow! And it wasn’t just the boys who were impressed - the powers-that-be later changed the name of the school to Danesfield. So there you have it… The Danes, or Vikings, or whoever those people who were who came pillaging and causing so much historic mayhem in their beautiful long boats, definitely made an impression on us West Somerset lads. (If you enjoy this article you might also like Denmark’s Kystlandet) So you can image my reaction when the UK’s representative for Danish Tourism called to say: “If you’re interested in the Danes, why not come on a trip to the very heart of Jutland where we will show you the epicentre of the Viking world and you can find out more about what those adventurous folk were all about. Indeed, Kongernes Jelling - the home of the Viking Kings - is the birthplace of Denmark itself.” This article is part of my wider series on Scandinavian summer escapes. You can find the full collection in my Denmark Coolcation Hub. Travelling to the Heart of Denmark by Train I accepted the invitation with much enthusiasm, but with one proviso: that I should travel to the home of the Danes by train rather than by plane. You see, I wanted to discover just how easy it would be to go on an interesting trip abroad in a manner that would not cost the planet more air-miles and inevitable carbon-burning. The answer turns out to be: very easy and pleasurable. If, and it is a big IF - the trains are running on time and there are no delays. I would have thoroughly enjoyed my day-and-a-half journey to central Jutland via Amsterdam (overnighting in Hamburg), had a two-hour delay on the first service not had a domino effect on all the others, with the result that I reached Hamburg at midnight rather than early evening and so missed the dinner I’d booked in a well known restaurant. However, the next morning I did have a few hours to explore the old German port which was pleasant enough, and also met two ladies on the train to Kolding in central Denmark who told me they’d just done an entire month’s Interrailing all round Europe and had not experienced a single hiccup or delay. So the answer to my question was that it’s not only possible to do Europe by train, it can be highly enjoyable and probably usually is. Kolding: Castles, Design and the Little Belt That was my conclusion as I disembarked at the aforementioned Kolding, which is a handsome harbour-and-university town on the sheltered shores of the Baltic. I say, sheltered because it is actually on the shores of a channel called the Little Belt - a stretch of water which separates the main north pointing finger of Jutland with the island of Funen. Had I stayed on the train, by the way, it would have crossed the Little Belt to traverse Funen, then cross the larger Great Belt to reach the even bigger island of Zealand, which plays host to Copenhagen. Walking the Little Belt Bridge I can tell you about that rail bridge over the Little Belt, because one of this region’s must-do tourist attractions is to take a rather exciting guided walk along its massive steel superstructure. Not an experience for anyone who lacks a head for heights. You hand over everything you are caring, such as mobile phones, then don disposable overalls and harnesses so that you can march among the catwalks some 200 feet above the waves. Rather enjoyable and most exhilarating, specially when an express train rattles the whole shooting match and also when you peer far below and see porpoises leaping around the deep narrow sea-channel. Little Belt Bridge between Jutland and Funen But my Danish adventure began at Kolding, a rather gentle and pleasant introduction to this scenic region. In a nutshell, the town offers a blend of history, modern art, and natural beauty. With its deep historical roots and contemporary cultural offerings, Kolding is sometimes billed as a “must-visit destination for travellers seeking a comprehensive Danish experience”. This is partly due to the fact that, looming above the town’s central lake, is the vast and impressive Koldinghus, a castle boasting over 750 years of history. Once a pivotal royal stronghold, the place has been meticulously restored and transformed into a modern museum. Kolding is also home to Trapholt Museum of Modern Art and Design - a remarkable place which showcases works by renowned Danish designers such as Arne Jacobsen and Verner Panton. If you love Scandi-style interior design and furniture, then this is the place for you - its extensive collection of Danish furniture, design and modern art provides an inspiring experience. Travel writer Martin Hesp in the Trapholt Museum of Modern Art and Design This year the museum has been featuring a special exhibition devoted to Ninna Ditzel, one of Denmark’s most influential designers. I must admit I’d not heard of her before, but I soon recognised her far-reaching influence which can be seen all around the globe. From basic chair designs to dazzling ceramics, from avant-garde table tops to egg-shaped hanging seat, Ninna had a hand in almost everything. We lunched at the museum’s excellent restaurant, which enjoys a spectacular view of the Kolding fjord. For more dispatches from Jutland, island-hopping in Kystlandet, and Danish food culture, explore my comprehensive Denmark Coolcation & Travel Guide. Vejle and the Fjordenhus Next stop on our tour was another harbour town, Vejle, located in the next small fjord to the north. It is a charming place - I very much enjoyed exploring its busy streets and staying at the stylish Zleep Hotel which is located in a modern block down in the harbour area. From its scenic windows, we could see the famous Fjordenhus, a striking architectural marvel designed by Danish-Icelandic artist Olafur Eliasson. Inaugurated in 2018, this landmark offers stunning views and houses the Michelin-starred restaurant LYST on its first floor. Fredericia: Denmark's Historic Fortress Town We also took the opportunity to visit Fredericia, where we were given a guided tour of this well-preserved fortress town which used to command the Little Belt area. You could see how it would once have been one of the most busy ports in the country, before they built the first Little Belt Bridge (the one with the guided tours and the one which still carries the trains) and the vast new road crossing. Back at Vejle we were taken to the Restaurant Nögen which specialises in serving food that would otherwise go to the landfill Which doesn’t sound exactly appetising but the clever chefs do a very good job indeed with the highly seasonal ingredients. While staying at Vejle we also visited the Fary Lochan Distillery so that we could sample a very decent Danish whisky. From LEGO House to the Viking Kings Which set up nicely for another tour - this time to the vast and incredibly busy LEGO House in Billund. This, by the way, is not the world famous LEGO Land which is suited on the outskirts of town, but the relatively new museum where you can learn all about the story of the world’s favourite plastic toy brick. The LEGO House, Billund And it’s all a great deal more fascinating than I’m making it sound - the interactive experience is perfect for families, offering hands-on activities, immersive exhibits, and a celebration of imagination and play. Through new technology, the creations can come alive on a screen. The massive new building, designed to look as if it’s made of LEGO, is divided into three zones where visitors can build just about anything out of the inspirational bricks or even produce a LEGO inspired movie. A wonderful place for my grandsons in a few years time, no doubt. Jelling: The Birthplace of Denmark But for me, the really big draw in this area of Jutland was the Jelling Monuments and the experience centre at Kongernes Jelling, where you can learn all about the home of the Viking Kings. King Harald Bluetooth had the name “Denmark” engraved on a giant rune stone Back in the tenth century, King Harald Bluetooth (and yes, the computer software is named after him) had the name “Denmark” engraved on a giant rune stone in this auspicious place. It was the first time the nation’s name was written down anywhere (as far as anyone knows), and you can still see this most treasured of Scandinavian rocks sitting in its own air conditioned armoured glass case today. King Harald Bluetooth and the Jelling Monuments Old Bluetooth didn’t hang about. Like so many kings and leaders throughout history, he wanted to leave his own big mark on the landscape which, in Jelling’s case, came in the shape of a mile-long giant Viking boat-shaped earthwork and fortress, complete with two vast barrows and a church. The Jelling Monument is a UNESCO World Heritage site and the state-of-the-art visitor centre offers an impressive array of modern digital sensory experiences which interpret the complex history of the place. All a very long way from memories of the small West Country boy who used to gaze at the hillocks and hummocks of Battle Gore with so much awe. The few hours I spent at Jelling recently really did put those scary and mystical Danes in a much clearer perspective. I was only there a few days but I realised I really had been to the heart of Denmark - and what’s more I’d reached it by train rather than plane. Our guide at the Jelling Monuments What Jelling Tells Us About Viking Denmark Standing at Jelling, I found myself thinking back to that field called Battle Gore opposite my old school. As a boy, the idea that Vikings had once fought and raided their way across Europe seemed wonderfully frightening. They were almost mythical figures – wild men in long boats appearing out of the mist and leaving destruction behind them. Jelling makes the story feel rather different. This wasn't simply a place associated with Viking raids. It was a place where a kingdom was being created. The great monuments, the runestone and the church tell the story of a ruler who was trying to unite a people and establish something recognisably like the Denmark we know today. And that is what makes the Jelling experience so fascinating. You aren't just looking at some old stones in a field. You are standing at a place where the idea of Denmark itself was being recorded. The runestone erected by Harald Bluetooth is particularly extraordinary. It carries the earliest known written reference to Denmark, effectively announcing the existence of the kingdom to the world. It is easy to look at the carved stone and think of it simply as an ancient relic, but its message was remarkably ambitious. Harald was telling people who he was, what he had achieved and, crucially, what country he ruled. Suddenly the Vikings became rather less mysterious and rather more human. That, for me, was the unexpected pleasure of this trip. I had travelled to Jutland thinking I was going to discover more about the frightening Danes of my childhood imagination. Instead, I found myself looking at the beginnings of a nation – and arriving there by train made the journey feel like part of the story. FACT FILE Follow the latest news from VisitDenmark on Social Media: Twitter: @GoVisitDenmark Instagram: @GoVisitDenmark Facebook: www.facebook.com/denmark

A Taste of Policy: Learning from Denmark at the Danish Embassy, London At a special food and drink seminar held at the Danish Embassy in London, I found myself thinking how, here in the UK, we barely score one-out-of-ten when it comes to joined-up thinking around food policy, nutrition, and sustainability. That’s not to say there’s no progress. Across the South West, I know many individuals, businesses, and small organisations working tirelessly to improve access to local, nutritious food (see our post on the food and drink of the Isles of Scilly) And yes, British food culture has changed dramatically for the better - especially if you have money to spend. This article is part of my wider series on Scandinavian summer escapes. You can find the full collection in my Denmark Coolcation Hub. What Does Denmark's Food Policy Actually Mean for Ordinary People? What interested me most about the Danish approach was that this wasn't really a discussion about fashionable restaurants, expensive organic vegetables or wealthy consumers shopping at farmers' markets. It was about what ordinary people are actually eating. That seems to me to be the important distinction. In Britain, we have become rather good at telling people they should eat better. We put traffic-light labels on packets, publish endless healthy-eating campaigns and then leave families to navigate a supermarket aisle packed with highly processed food. If you've got plenty of money and time, eating well is relatively easy. If you haven't, it becomes considerably more difficult. Simple seafood dish in Skagen, northern Denmark The Danish approach I heard about seemed to start from a different premise: if the state is going to provide millions of meals in nurseries, schools, hospitals, care homes and other public institutions, then those meals should be good ones. And I rather liked that idea. There was something refreshingly practical about the Danish system. Instead of simply telling people to eat more healthily, it tries to make healthy, seasonal and organic food part of everyday life. The emphasis is on cooking, ingredients and education rather than simply putting another warning label on a packet. Of course, Denmark isn't some agricultural paradise. I had no hesitation in raising the awkward question about its huge pork industry, because you can't talk seriously about sustainable Danish food while pretending that contradiction doesn't exist. But perhaps that is another lesson. Sustainable food policy doesn't have to mean claiming everything is perfect. It can mean recognising what isn't working, measuring progress and trying to change it. That struck me as a rather more grown-up approach than the endless British argument about whether somebody is trying to create a 'nanny state'. Sometimes, perhaps, the simplest way to improve what people eat is to make sure that better food is actually there in the first place. Britain’s Nutrition Crisis: Obesity, Allergies, and Poor Public Awareness Despite progress, we are still facing a growing crisis. The UK has one of the worst obesity rates in Europe, and every week brings headlines about food-related health concerns, from childhood dental issues to rising allergies. Take the recent furore over slush-ice drinks sweetened with glycerine. It’s alarming: no parent would knowingly give their child raw glycerine, yet that’s exactly what’s happening. Children are becoming ill—some seriously so. Whether the government acts remains to be seen. cured salmon as served in a Danish seaside town Is the Answer a Nanny State? Not If We Start with Education We don’t need a nanny state—we need education. If people, young and old, understood nutrition and the value of real, minimally processed food, slush-ice wouldn’t even be on the shelves. The key is putting good food in front of people. Consistently. That’s what really struck me at the Danish Embassy symposium. Denmark’s Public Food System: A Model of Organic Efficiency One speaker, Anders Nicolajsen from the Danish Agriculture and Food Council, shared insights into Denmark’s public food system—meals served in government-run institutions, from nurseries to prisons and elderly care homes. With a population of under six million, Denmark serves over a million public meals daily—on par with the UK in per-capita terms. The difference? In Copenhagen and elsewhere, over 90% of the ingredients are organic, and much is locally sourced. High Organic Content on a Low Budget You might assume Denmark spends lavishly on these meals, but that’s not the case. “The cost is between £1 and £2 per day, depending on the municipality,” Anders told me. “It’s not a system flushed with funding. We make it work through economies of scale and government initiatives.” The Organic Cuisine Label: Denmark’s Transparent Food Standard One such initiative is the Organic Cuisine Label, a government-run scheme indicating the percentage of organic ingredients in public kitchens and restaurants. It operates on three tiers: Gold: 90–100% organic Silver: 60–90% organic Bronze: 30–60% organic This free programme is administered by the Danish Veterinary and Food Administration and includes regular inspections to ensure compliance. “It’s all about transparency and trust,” Anders said. “Only kitchens with the gold label may call themselves truly organic.” Why Denmark Leads the World in Organic Food Consumption Denmark is widely considered a global leader in organic food consumption. Over 14% of all food served in the country is organic—the highest percentage in the world. The movement is being fuelled by younger generations demanding transparency, sustainability, and locally sourced produce. The Industrial Pig in the Room: Denmark’s Dual Farming Identity Of course, it’s not all perfect. I raised a point in the Q&A session: Denmark is also a major exporter of industrially produced pork—the kind you’ll find in nearly every UK supermarket. Anders didn’t shy away. “You’ve highlighted a real tension in Denmark’s agricultural model,” he admitted. Denmark is attempting to balance organic ideals with the economics of industrial farming. “We’re working on it,” he said, citing innovations in waste management, feed efficiency, and sustainability. The Nordic Kitchen Manifesto: Where Food Meets Ethics The tension between tradition and industrialisation is also addressed in the New Nordic Kitchen Manifesto, created 20 years ago to champion: Seasonal, regional ingredients Ethical sourcing Sustainability Animal welfare This manifesto has reshaped not just cooking in Denmark but also the food tourism landscape—with visitors flocking to Scandinavia to experience Nordic cuisine at its finest. The Takeaway: Lessons for the UK Food and Public Health System Denmark offers a compelling lesson: nutritious, organic food doesn’t have to be expensive, and it should be accessible to all—not just the wealthy. A well-fed nation is a healthier nation, and a sustainable public food system could ultimately save billions in health costs. And there was, of course, another way of demonstrating what Denmark believes about food: by actually feeding us. Danish Pan-Fried Fish Cakes by Kamilla Seidler Trebbien At the Danish Embassy seminar, we were treated to a menu created by Kamilla Seidler Trebbien, an award-winning Danish chef named “Latin America’s Best Female Chef.” Here’s her recipe for delicious Danish pan-fried fishcakes: Ingredients for 12 small portions: 400g cod fillet 1 tsp coarse salt ½ dl finely chopped herbs (dill, parsley or tarragon) 100ml milk 1 egg 2 tbsp wheat flour 1½ tsp lemon zest (unwaxed) 25g butter 1½ tbsp vegetable or olive oil Instructions: Blend the fish in a processor for about 15 seconds. Mix with salt, then add herbs, milk, egg, flour, and lemon zest. Chill for 15 minutes. Heat a pan with butter and oil. Shape fishcakes and fry over medium heat for about 15 minutes, turning occasionally. Serve the traditional Danish way: with ryebread and remoulade, or tartare sauce and boiled potatoes. SEE OUR POST ABOUT THE CUISINE OF COPENHAGEN HERE

Exploring Denmark: How to Travel the Country in Comfort Denmark and comfort go “hand in glove”. Defined by its concept of hygge (coziness), this Scandinavian gem often ranks among the world’s happiest countries, and it’s easy to see why. If you’re traveling to Denmark soon, expect slow-living, sustainability, and first-class amenities. Crowds dining outdoors in Copenhagen Whether you’re exploring the vibrant capital, Copenhagen, or veering slightly off the beaten path to the North Sea beaches of Jutland, you will find comfort at every corner you turn in Denmark. That said, there are aspects of travel that are often overlooked in planning, and they can greatly affect your comfort. Here are some tips to ensure your comfort during your visit to Denmark. This article is part of my wider series on Scandinavian summer escapes. You can find the full collection in my Denmark Coolcation Hub. Make Connectivity Part of Your Comfort Strategy One thing you won’t have to worry about when traveling through Denmark is connectivity. The country has world-class digital connectivity, with 99% internet coverage. That’s 4G and 5G. However, as many travelers would know, switching physical SIM cards to access the internet can be quite daunting. From standing in a long kiosk queue at the airport to figuring out how data rates work in a foreign country, you’re likely to get frustrated as you try to get online. The WonderConnect Travel eSIM works in 190+ countries and takes two steps to set up: install before you leave, and activate when you land. No roaming fees, and you keep your regular number throughout. If you’re traveling from within the EU or EEA, your existing plan may already cover Denmark under “Roam Like at Home” rules - though fair-use limits can apply. Coming from outside the EU, a travel eSIM keeps things straightforward. Base Yourself in Copenhagen First Denmark has much to offer, but the best place to start is Copenhagen. It’s a historic city, but modernity permeates throughout. Get a taste of hygge at a cozy café or “lazy bakery.” If you’re looking for something other than caffeine, seek out bars or cellars with low lighting and candles. View looking east across Copenhagen Stroll along Nyhavn, taking snaps of the colourful 18th-century houses or simply marveling at the bustle as boats bob on the canal and people socialise. The canal-side eateries are a fantastic spot to people-watch or enjoy a late lunch or sunset drink. Copenhagen is extremely walkable and safe, so explore as you wish, but definitely visit Tivoli Gardens for a piece of nature. After Copenhagen, make your way to Odense and Aarhus. These are Denmark’s third- and second-largest cities, respectively, so comfort amenities are abundant. It’s advisable to delve into Danish cuisine here; food is cheaper than in the capital and has a strong focus on hygge. The lighthouse at Aarhus in northern Denmark Use Denmark’s Transport System to Your Advantage Developed, efficient, and interconnected, that’s Denmark’s transportation system in three words. Major cities have bus networks that connect smaller towns and metros. Copenhagen provides a metro service, so getting around won’t be a challenge regardless of how you choose to travel. Get on the front foot by using the integrated ticketing system. Denmark offers the Rejsebillet, Rejsekort, and the DSB app, which you can use to purchase, store, and use transport tickets. Cash purchases are uncommon, so you’d need to load a physical card with cash or use an app. Cycling is the most common way Danes move around. Tourists are welcome to use this laid-back form of transportation, with plenty of rental bike options available. There are app-based services such as Donkey Republic and Lime that let you easily rent a bike. Choose Accommodation That Reduces Friction Accommodation often takes a big chunk of the budget, but that doesn’t mean you should forgo comfort for a lower price, especially in Denmark. It’s not a cheap country to visit, yes, but a central location can cut transport costs and boost convenience by providing access to amenities. When you’re centrally located, you’re more likely to be within walking distance to a variety of food establishments, from grocery stores to restaurants, bars, cafés, and bakeries. This variety of options allows you to choose what fits your budget and dietary preferences. Choosing hotels near transport hubs is also recommended, especially if your itinerary includes visits outside the city centre. So, you’ll spend less time on travel and more time on hygge. Lastly, be sure to book your accommodation early. The summer is Denmark’s peak season, and it fills up quickly. Last-minute options are often more expensive and limit comfort. Travel at the Danish Pace (Not a Tourist Sprint) Ever wonder why Denmark is a happy nation? Trust in public institutions, a high-level welfare system, security, and equality? You’d be right, but there is one more thing: The Danish Pace. Embracing slow living and a rigid work-life balance, many Danes don’t travel to tick items off the bucket list. They prioritise relaxation and guess what, comfort. Here’s how you can do that. Start your mornings slowly, walk to the nearest café, sit, or keep walking as you sightsee. Use the afternoon to go to the must-visit spots on your itinerary, then follow up with a long lunch and bakery stop for a sweet treat. When evening sets in, you’re welcome to enjoy sundowners or simply recharge at your hotel. Be it a spa or sauna visit, or a swim in the pool, it’s up to you. Time Your Visit for Maximum Comfort June, July, and August are undoubtedly the best months to visit Denmark. The summer brings long daylight hours, warm weather, and plenty of vibrant outdoor festivals. However, this is peak season, which means larger crowds, higher prices, and fully booked hotels and restaurants. A visit to Denmark during one of the shoulder seasons, late spring (May) and early fall (September), offers milder weather, fewer tourists, and better prices. But if you’re looking for the epitome of coziness or hygge, there is no better time to visit than winter (November–March). Picture this. You’re strolling through a Christmas market adorned by thousands of festive lights, as the aroma of Danish mulled wine (gløgg) and apple pancakes fills the air. Copenhagen hosts some of the best markets, including Tivoli Gardens, Nyhavn, Højbro Plads, and Kongens Nytorv. Eat Well Without Overplanning Danish cuisine is a refreshing blend of traditional Nordic cooking and modern, seasonal ingredients and techniques known as “New Nordic”. A couple of standard staples you’ll find throughout the country include smørrebrød (open sandwiches) and frikadeller (meatballs). Each region has its own character. Copenhagen has a cosmopolitan vibe, with a mix of Michelin restaurants and smørrebrød houses. In coastal regions like Kystlandet, seafood takes centre stage; freshly caught fish, oysters, mussels, and locally-sourced produce are all on the menu. So, there’s no need to over-plan your meals when in Denmark. Simply reserve the “fine dining” experiences in advance, and get the rest from markets, harbour cafés, and bakeries.

Is the burger in our photograph the best in the world? Silly question, I know - superlatives are far from scientific, because who can really tell? And when it comes to burgers, there’s an awful lot of very good competition. But I’m here to tell you that this particular meat patty, along with all its many trimmings, really does stand a chance of claiming the title - partly because of its amazing flavours and multi-layered accompaniments, and partly because of its pedigree. Is this the best beef-burger in the world>? According to Popl it is Has Noma Changed Copenhagen's Food Scene? You will probably have heard of Noma - the Michelin three-star Copenhagen restaurant which is often claimed to be the best eatery in the world. Well, this is basically a Noma burger - and, believe me, when those guys cook stuff, they do so with enormous panache. The burger-meal I was served in Popl - Noma’s down-to-earth sister diner - last weekend was the best beef-patty-in-a-bun I have ever eaten. Which is saying something because my burger-eating career began 48 years ago when I first discovered the luxury version of pressed-mince-beef delights in the Texas, which many would argue is the spiritual home of the beef burger. This article is part of our wider series on Scandinavian summer escapes. You can find the full collection in my Denmark Coolcation Hub. It’s all side-dishes, the foraged ingredients and the intricate minuscule touches that come with this burger that makes it so glorious. The wondrous assembly of side dishes are all inspired by the Nordic Cuisine cooked and served by staff at Noma - the world-famous mother-ship-restaurant down the road - but at less than a tenth of the price. The Noma Effect: Copenhagen's Food Seed Tray During the covid lockdowns, the team at Noma decided to continue offering something basic but good to local customers, and a pop-buyer joint was formed. The concept was so popular they opened a permanent burger restaurant on a quayside in Copenhagen’s delightful Christianshavn area nearby and some of the staff moved over to help run Popl. It’s not at all pretentious, humbly describing itself as a “neighbourhood spot” in which to grab some good food, either to eat-in or as a takeaway. It’s me, having dined there last Saturday night, who’s making grand claims about the burger meal. Why was I in Copenhagen? Because I’d asked my friend Kasper Iversen, who is Denmark tourism’s representative in the UK, if the invention of Nordic Cuisine and the rise and rise of restaurants like Noma had altered his capital city’s food offering. I wanted to know if Copenhagen, which has an amazing tally of 15 Michelin starred restaurants, had seen a general upgrading in its food on offer. Had worldwide acclaim for its much-celebrated high-end eateries result in higher standards across the board? In summer Copenhagen is filled with outdoor dining areas I am interested in such things because I have seen how the Cornish food scene has been elevated over the past 25 years. You could call it a “seed tray effect” - sprinkle a scattering of very good purveyors of excellent food into a designated area and you will soon find a whole garden of excellence evolving and growing. West of the Tamar you can thank the likes of Messrs Stein, Ainsworth, Outlaw etc for the upturn - and in next week’s Hesp Out West we will be discovering a new and exciting centre of Cornish foodie excellence. But last week, as I was on a press trip elsewhere in Denmark, Kasper invited me to spend a quick weekend in Copenhagen so that I could sample a smattering of its more down-to-earth and affordable food outlets. I can report they were very good indeed. That’s partly due to the fact that many shun the wearisome dictates of what’s sometimes known as “international cuisine”. It’s almost as though many Danish chefs are saying: “Let’s just stick to what we have and what we can do best - whether that fits in with the expectations of others or not.” One of the chefs at Popl in Copenhagen What Makes Copenhagen's Food Scene Different? What I found most interesting about Copenhagen wasn't simply that it has some extraordinarily expensive restaurants. We already know that. The more interesting question is what happens when a handful of ambitious chefs start changing the way an entire city thinks about food. This is where I think the Noma effect becomes important. You don't have to eat at Noma – or anywhere remotely like it – to feel its influence. The ideas that helped make New Nordic cuisine famous have filtered down into restaurants, cafés and even quite ordinary places to eat. Local ingredients matter. Seasonality matters. Vegetables are no longer treated as an afterthought. Old Danish recipes are being dusted down, reworked and presented in ways that would probably have astonished their grandmothers. And that, to me, is much more interesting than simply having a handful of Michelin-starred restaurants. You can, of course, buy classic Danish pastries everywhere in Copenhagen I've seen something similar happening in Cornwall. Put a few really good chefs, food producers and restaurateurs in one relatively small place and, before long, they begin to influence one another. Standards rise. Customers become more demanding. Young chefs see that there is another way of doing things. Eventually the whole food culture starts to move. Perhaps Copenhagen is simply a much bigger and more successful version of the same phenomenon. There is also something distinctly Danish about the way tradition and innovation seem to coexist. A plate of beautifully prepared smørrebrød can sit quite comfortably alongside a restaurant serving food that looks as though it has been designed by an architect. One doesn't necessarily cancel out the other. That is what I took away from my time eating around Copenhagen. The city's great food story isn't really about Noma, or any individual restaurant. It is about what happens when excellence becomes contagious. And perhaps that is the real legacy of Copenhagen's food revolution: not that everyone wants to eat like a Michelin-starred chef, but that more people have started expecting their food to be better. Smørrebrød: Denmark's Great Open Sandwich And that is an ethos which hinges upon fresh, seasonal, local ingredients. Nowhere is this mantra better demonstrated than on top of the classic Scandinavian “open sandwich”. What you do is take a slab of fresh-baked dark rye-bread, upon which you build layer upon layer of flavour. It could be based on a herring fillet, or maybe a layer of finally chopped raw beef, to which you had layers of complementary flavours such as pickles, sliced vegetables, fresh leaves, boiled eggs… The combinations are endless and, of course, these open sandwiches give chefs a great opportunity to show off and make the food look very appealing indeed. Bjørnekælderen: Smørrebrød Taken to Another Level One place where you can see the art of the “smørrebrød” writ large is at a Bib Gourmand restaurant called Bjørnekælderen, in the city’s Frederiksberg area. At night the place specialises in French food with an Asian twist, all made from Nordic ingredients - but at lunchtime they serve high-end smørrebrød, and very delicious and satisfying they are too. My Danish friends and I went for the recommended lunchtime offering of three open-sandwiches. They included smoked eel topped with scrambled eggs, truffles and pepper; beef Tatar with smoked cheese, pumpkin seeds and rhubarb; herring with red curry, tomato and coriander; and a fried fillet of fish with kimchi, cress and lime. Three sandwiches for 40 quid? Worth every penny! These were no ordinary sandwiches - they were Rolls Royces of their kind. You can also blame Stirling’s poor post-Brexit exchange rates for prices across Europe. Having lunched at the wonderful Bjørnekælderen, I can’t help but think there’s an opportunity for chefs in the West Country to showcase their concepts as open-faced sandwiches. Yes, Scandinavia’s heavy black rye-breads are superb at withstanding the sogginess which juices or liquids might soak into them, but a West Country version featuring a good slice of freshly made sourdough, topped last-minute with best Red Ruby beef, finest Cornish seafood or whatever, under layers of fresh salads, veg, fruit or even seaweed, would be a real eye-catcher. Fasangården: Modern Danish Food in Frederiksberg Gardens Another excellent restaurant I sampled on my brief sojourn last weekend was the Fasangården, situated in the scenic and hidden oasis of Copenhagen’s Frederiksberg Gardens. I went there on a really warm evening and was delighted to find myself strolling though lovely gardens where hundreds of people were enjoying the sun and picnicking under the trees. The Fasangården is located in a historic building that was originally built to breed pheasants for the royal hunts under King Christian the Fifth and afterwards turned into a royal official residence. The place specialises in Danish classics, all served with a modern twist - and my meal was very good indeed even if I did have to wait an age between courses. Spare a thought for the solitary diner, by the way… It was a Friday evening and the place was buzzing - so who are waiters going to concentrate on when it comes to the pressures of time… the big group at a large table or the single bloke eating alone? Last Friday I was that sad blighter and waited ages between courses - but the fine meal made up for it. On the menu there’s a starter dish of warm-smoked salmon, green tomato, gooseberry salsa, dill mayo, and toasted buckwheat and a main which is a creamy salad with Rokkedahl chicken, apple, celery, crispy bacon, and pickled beech mushrooms. I had a particularly memorable starter featuring local shrimp and a fantastic dish of halibut for my main. As I say, I enjoyed sitting there watching the happy, very well-behaved, crowds milling around out in the public gardens. No drunkenness or bad behaviour in evidence - it struck me that Copenhagen’s parks were reminiscent of the way our own public spaces were back in the 1960s. Has Copenhagen Really Become a Better Food City? I was last in Copenhagen 15 years ago, when I didn’t think the food was anything to write home about. A decade-and-a-half later I only sampled a few of the city’s restaurants, but what I consumed scored very highly indeed - and walking around last weekend I could see there was a lot of very good food on offer. So, I had gone there asking the question: can a few top class and world famous places, like Noma, help to raise a location’s universal game? The answer has to be that the “seed tray syndrome” really does exist - you will find it alive and flourishing in Copenhagen. Also there’s the lesson that if you stick to what’s fresh, seasonal and local, and you cook with care, you can’t go far wrong. FACT FILE Martin was a guest at the 5-star NH Collection Copenhagen, located at the very heart of the city in a unique historical and sustainable building in the district of Christianshavn. NH Collection Copenhagen has 394 rooms and suites, an amazing rooftop bar, a hotel bar and two restaurants, lounge area with fireplace, valet parking, fitness facilities, and much more. The city's landmarks, cultural offerings and shopping are all within short distance. Bikes are available to rent, and if a calm trip on the water is more relaxing, the local harbour bus ferry pick guests up right in front of the hotel. The local metro station with a direct line to the airport (only 15 min) is located on a 5 min walk away. View from the roof terrace of the 5-star NH Collection Copenhagen Frequently Asked Questions About Copenhagen Food What food is Copenhagen famous for? Copenhagen is particularly famous for smørrebrød, modern Nordic cuisine, seafood, rye bread and innovative interpretations of traditional Danish dishes. What is Nordic cuisine? Nordic cuisine emphasises seasonal, local ingredients and often draws inspiration from the landscapes and traditions of Denmark and the wider Nordic region. Has Noma influenced Copenhagen's food scene? Noma has had a major influence on Copenhagen's international reputation for food and on the development of modern Nordic cuisine, while its influence has also spread to chefs and more accessible restaurants across the city. What is smørrebrød? Smørrebrød is the traditional Danish open sandwich, usually built on dense rye bread and topped with ingredients such as fish, meat, eggs, vegetables, pickles and sauces. Is Copenhagen good for food lovers? Very much so. Copenhagen combines high-end restaurants with excellent casual dining, traditional Danish food, modern Nordic cooking, bakeries, cafés and increasingly inventive interpretations of familiar dishes. SEE OUR POST ON THE FOOD SCENE UP IN SKAGEN, NORTHERN DENMARK

Alrø Island lies in Horsens Fjord on Denmark's eastern Jutland coast, part of the Kystlandet region. Small, peaceful and easy to explore on foot or by bicycle, it feels a world away from Denmark's better-known tourist destinations. We visited Alrø as part of our travels around Kystlandet, arriving by bicycle ferry from neighbouring Hjarnø, and discovered an island where coastal scenery, history and unusually good food come together. Stepping ashore at Alrø Island The atmosphere is calm and you can experience beautiful nature and the most delicious food. The island is 7.7 square kilometres and you can walk, cycle or drive there. Alrø has been inhabited since the Stone Age and it is still possible to find stone age tools here. The island is particularly popular among nature and kite surfing enthusiasts. Arriving in Alro Where Is Alrø Island in Denmark? To embark on your Alro Island adventure, make your way to Horsens, a charming Danish town on the eastern coast of Jutland. From there, a short ferry ride takes you to the island, where you'll be greeted by its gentle, rolling landscapes and welcoming locals. We took the The Alrø-Hjarnø bicycle ferry from the neighbouring island of Hjorno. This article is part of my wider series on Scandinavian summer escapes. You can find the full collection in my Denmark Coolcation Hub. Walking and Cycling Around Alrø Alro Island is a haven for nature enthusiasts. It boasts pristine beaches, forests, and scenic coastal trails, making it a wonderful stop for hikers and beachcombers . Stroll along the shores, breathe in the sea air, and listen to the soothing hush of the rushes. blowing in the wind. Alrø Church and the Island's History Despite its small size, Alro Island is steeped in history. Visit Alro Church, a charming medieval church dating back to the 13th century, where time seems to stand still. The island's history also includes tales of pirates and smugglers, adding an element of mystery to your adventures. Where to Eat on Alrø: Local Food and Smoked Fish Savour the flavours of Alro by indulging in its local cuisine. Freshly caught seafood, such as herring and mackerel, is a must-try. For a unique experience, visit one of the island's fish smokehouses, where you can sample the island's delectable smoked fish, a culinary tradition passed down through generations. Alrø Købmandsgaard and the Famous Bison Burger We enjoyed a truly wonderful lunch at lunch at Alrø Købmagergaard - where we were able to enjoy a locally reared bison burger and mouth-watering tapas. At Alrø Købmandsgaard, the bison meat is from the restaurants own herd farmed nearby on the island. Why Alrø Is Perfect for Slow Travel Alro Island has long been a source of inspiration for artists. The island's scenic beauty, charming villages, and tranquil ambiance have drawn painters, writers, and musicians for centuries. An artist's window on Alrø Island Take a leisurely stroll through the villages and countryside, and you might just find your own muse here. CHECK OUT OUR GENERAL OVERVIEW OF THE KYSTLANDET AREA HERE Alro Island is the ideal destination for those seeking a digital detox. Limited mobile coverage and a lack of modern distractions encourage visitors to disconnect from screens and immerse themselves in the island's natural beauty. Where to Stay Accommodation options on Alrø Island are cosy and intimate, ranging from quaint cottages to charming bed and breakfasts. This close proximity to nature ensures you'll wake up to the soothing sounds of the fjord and the gentle rustle of leaves in the morning breeze. A Slower Side of Denmark What struck me most about Alrø was how quickly the pace of life seemed to change. We had been travelling around Kystlandet, visiting beaches, towns and some of the region's better-known attractions, but Alrø felt different. There was no sense that we were being hurried towards the next sight or encouraged to tick another attraction off a list. Instead, the pleasure was simply in being there. The island is small enough to explore without any great effort, and cycling is an ideal way of doing it. The roads are quiet and the landscape opens out around you, with fields, hedgerows and views across the waters of Horsens Fjord. Every so often you come across another reminder that this is a working rural community rather than a resort created for tourists. That was particularly apparent when we stopped for food. Alrø Købmandsgaard is much more than somewhere to grab lunch. It has the feel of a traditional Danish meeting place, combining food, local produce and a distinctly informal atmosphere. And then there is the island's rather unexpected bison connection. Seeing locally reared bison appear on the menu was one of those slightly surreal travel experiences that makes a place memorable. There is also something appealing about the fact that Alrø hasn't been polished into a conventional tourist destination. You don't come here for a long list of major attractions. You come for the landscape, the peace, the food and the chance to see another side of Denmark. For us, that was the real attraction. Alrø wasn't somewhere we needed to conquer or fully understand in a few hours. It was somewhere to slow down, look around and enjoy. And in an increasingly busy world, there is something rather special about an island that still allows you to do exactly that. Frequently Asked Questions About Alrø Island Where is Alrø Island in Denmark? Alrø lies in Horsens Fjord off the eastern coast of Jutland, in Denmark's Kystlandet region. How do you get to Alrø Island? Alrø is connected to mainland Jutland by road, while seasonal ferry services also connect it with neighbouring islands including Hjarnø. What can you do on Alrø Island? Alrø is ideal for walking, cycling, enjoying the coastline, exploring its historic church and villages, and sampling local food. What is Alrø Island famous for? Alrø is known for its peaceful rural landscape, coastal setting, traditional Danish island atmosphere and local food, including the bison raised on the island and served at Alrø Købmandsgaard. Is Alrø Island worth visiting? Yes, particularly if you want to experience a quieter side of Denmark away from the country's major tourist destinations. For more dispatches from Jutland, island-hopping in Kystlandet, and Danish food culture, explore my comprehensive Denmark Coolcation & Travel Guide.

Looking for a quieter side of Denmark? Just an hour by ferry from the Jutland coast lies Tunø, a tiny island where cars have never been allowed, children still play safely in the streets and life moves at an altogether gentler pace. Recently named Denmark's Island of the Year, Tunø offers dramatic coastal cliffs, peaceful beaches, charming cottages and one of the most relaxing day trips in Scandinavia. During my visit I discovered an island that feels wonderfully untouched by modern life. Why Visit Tunø? Tuno is one of those peaceful, unspoiled islands which promises an immersive experience. Often overshadowed by its more renowned neighbours, Tuno offers visitors a chance to break away from the bustling tourist spots and find serenity amidst its natural beauty. And one of the recommended ways to explore this island is by taking a walk around its perimeter, an experience that offers an unparalleled view of both the land and the sea. Which is exactly what we did on a day which began stormy and wet and ended stormy and wet - which meant we were very fortunate indeed to enjoy a weather window which brought us sunshine and a warm breeze. This article is part of my wider series on Scandinavian summer escapes. You can find the full collection in my Denmark Coolcation Hub. Starting the Journey: The Tuno Harbour Begin your journey at Tuno's port a small but picturesque location where you can see local fishermen at work and the occasional sailboat anchored in the bay. The harbour, with its quintessential Scandinavian architecture, offers the perfect preamble to what lies ahead. Lush Green FieldsAs you start walking north from the harbour, you begin to see evidence of what look to be highly productive fields. The landscape further inland is dotted with traditional Danish farmhouses, and you can see the church tower of Tuno By, the island’s central village. The Northern Shores: Rocky Outcrops and Bird-watchingSoon you come to the point which marks the north-eastern corner of the island - and this introduces you to the northern edge of Tuno. The shoreline here is more rugged, with its rocky outcrops providing an interesting contrast to the smooth sands you'd find elsewhere on the island. The cliffs here are home to a variety of seabirds, making this stretch a paradise for bird-watchers. The Forest The northern part of Tuno is where you'll encounter a dense growth of trees, presenting a forest-like ambiance. The walking trail here is shaded, and the temperature noticeably cooler. If you're lucky, you might spot some of the island's native wildlife, such as deer or rabbits. Eastern Delight: Beaches and Dunes As you continue your journey east, the terrain gradually changes to soft sandy beaches. These beaches are mostly desolate, save for the occasional visitor soaking in the sun or children building sandcastles. The low dunes are covered here or there with tufts of marram grass, making for some beautiful photographic opportunities. Southern Shore Now it’s a long but very pleasant and easy two-and-a-half mile stroll back along the undulating hills which make up the southern shoreline, Back to Civilisation Ending at the HarbourYour perimeter walk culminates back at the harbour, bringing the journey full circle. The entire walk can be completed in a few hours, but it’s advisable to take it slow, allowing yourself to immerse in the myriad experiences Tuno offers. We enjoyed a truly fabulous seafood lunch at the harbourside restaurant which specialises in freshly smoked fish. Tuno might not be the first name that pops up when you think of visiting Denmark, but it's certainly a destination that deserves a spot on the Scandinavian traveller's bucket list. A walk around its shores provides a comprehensive glimpse into the natural beauty and tranquil lifestyle of this Scandinavian gem. Whether you’re an avid nature lover, a photographer, or someone just looking to escape the hustle and bustle, Tuno promises an experience you won't soon forget. For more dispatches from Jutland, island-hopping in Kystlandet, and Danish food culture, explore my comprehensive Denmark Coolcation & Travel Guide. Frequently Asked Questions Where is Tunø Island? Tunø is a small Danish island in the Kattegat Sea, off the east coast of Jutland. It can be reached by ferry from the port of Hou, south of Aarhus, with the crossing taking around an hour. Why is Tunø famous? Tunø is famous for being one of the few inhabited Danish islands where private cars have never been allowed. Visitors come for its peaceful atmosphere, dramatic cliffs, sandy beaches and charming traditional village. It was also named Denmark's Island of the Year for 2024–2025. Can you drive on Tunø? No. Private cars are not permitted on the island. Visitors explore on foot or by bicycle, while tractors are used to transport luggage and supplies. The lack of traffic is one of Tunø's biggest attractions. How long does it take to walk around Tunø? A complete walk around the island is about 8 kilometres (5 miles) and can usually be completed in around three hours, although many visitors allow longer to enjoy the beaches, cliffs and wildlife. Is Tunø suitable for families? Yes. With no traffic, safe village streets, gentle beaches and family-friendly walking trails, Tunø is an excellent destination for visitors with children. What is there to see on Tunø? Highlights include the scenic coastal cliffs, quiet beaches, picturesque harbour, traditional village, the unusual church whose tower also serves as a lighthouse, and the island's peaceful walking routes. Can you stay overnight on Tunø? Yes. The island offers accommodation including guesthouses, campsites and the seaside hotel, making it easy to enjoy a longer, slower-paced visit. When is the best time to visit Tunø? Late spring through early autumn is ideal, when ferries operate regularly, cafés and accommodation are open, and the weather is perfect for walking, cycling and enjoying the island's beaches.

At the northern tip of Denmark, where two seas meet and fishing has shaped life for generations, Skagen is an excellent place to discover the flavours of Danish coastal cuisine. Fresh seafood is at the heart of the local food scene, but there is much more to taste here — from traditional smørrebrød and historic hotel dining to contemporary Nordic cooking and even a new generation of Danish craft cider. During my visit I ate my way around Skagen, discovering restaurants, hotels and chefs whose cooking reflects both the town's maritime heritage and a fresh approach to local, seasonal ingredients. This article is part of my wider series on Scandinavian summer escapes. You can find the full collection in my Denmark Coolcation Hub. Harbourside seafood restaurants in Skagen Skagen Fiskerestaurant: A Harbourside Staple of Danish Seafood Skagen Fiskerestaurant is a notable example among these harbourside venues. It's known for its direct relationship with the sea, offering dishes that frequently feature whatever the boats have brought in. The appeal here lies in the unpretentious presentation of quality seafood, served in a setting that evokes the maritime history of the town, often with sand on the floors to enhance the connection to the beach. CHECK OUT OUR MAIN FEATURE ON VISITING SKAGEN BY CLICKING HERE Brøndums Hotel: Tradition and Taste in the Heart of Skagen Brøndums Hotel Brøndums Hotel, a fixture in Skagen, serves as an example of this tradition. The kitchen tends to focus on well-prepared local ingredients, served in a classic style. You're likely to find fish dishes, perhaps a pan-fried plaice or a classic herring preparation. I enjoyed a truly superb 5-course tasting menu. It’s an opportunity to taste the region’s bounty in a setting that acknowledges its history. Travel writer Martin Hesp enjoying dinner at the Brøndums Hotel Ruth’s Hotel: Seasonal Danish Food with Coastal Character Ruth’s Hotel, another establishment in the area, operates with a similar philosophy but with its own distinct character. The focus remains on Danish culinary traditions, often with an emphasis on seasonality. Their offerings might include variations on open-faced sandwiches (smørrebrød) featuring locally sourced toppings, or main courses that highlight the day's catch from the nearby waters. I enjoyed one of the best Bloody Marys I’ve ever had at the hotel one evening and a truly superb steak. Sømærket: Wine, Cider, and Local Atmosphere in Skagen For those seeking a drink beyond the usual, Sømærket, a wine and cider bar, provides an alternative. It’s a place where you can explore a curated selection of beverages. But what really stood out for me was the Danish craft cider. I asked the question: “Cider bar? Why cider? I have never seen it in Denmark and didn’t know it was a Danish thing?” After which we spent a highly informative and delicious hour talking with a young man called Karl-Emil Sams, who leases the place from Ruth’s and who owns another restaurant in the main town. Cider might not be a Danish thing quite yet, but soon will be. The country is at the very beginning of a cider boom. “Denmark has always been known for is lager style beer, but some of us started looking at all the different apple varieties that grow here. There are literally hundreds and some are sharp and not really edible - so a few of us started trying to make cider with them.” With that Karl-Emil poured me a glass of fizzing amber liquid he’d made with his brother, and it was fantastic. So good, it would definitely win prizes at major UK cider competitions. Blink Restaurant: A Contemporary Take on Local Ingredients Blink restaurant is another spot contributing to the area's food landscape. The approach of woner and chef Matilde Grue is about taking very basic seasonal ingredients and presenting them in a contemporary way. While rooted in local produce, there's a visible effort to move beyond the most traditional preparations, offering a fresh perspective on Danish cooking. We had some of the best fishcakes I’ve ever tasted there. . Chef Ronni Sørensen at Plesner Hotel: Balanced Nordic Flavours The Plesner Hotel, in conjunction with chef Ronni Sørensen, adds another dimension. We stayed at the excellent Plesner right in the heart of town and I was able to enjoy quite a few chats with the amiable Ronni, who used to be a fisherman working out of the harbour a stone's throw away before he became a chef. It was a good move. He is very talented. Ronni Sørensen's work often involves a considered approach to ingredients, combining elements that speak to both the land and the sea. His dishes are less about dramatic innovation and more about finding a balance in flavour and texture, allowing the quality of the raw materials to come through. It's an example of how a chef can interpret regional ingredients without resorting to complex culinary theatrics. A starter as prepared by Chef Ronni Sørensen at Plesner Hotel, Skagen SEE OUR FEATURE ON THE CITY OF AARHUS BY CLICKING HERE Final Thoughts: Skagen’s Culinary Identity Is Rooted in the Local Dining in Northern Denmark, especially around Skagen, is largely about a direct engagement with what the local environment provides. It's an experience grounded in the ingredients, prepared with an eye towards straightforward presentation and flavour. The dunes leading towards Denmark's most northerly point For more dispatches from Jutland, island-hopping in Kystlandet, and Danish food culture, explore my comprehensive Denmark Coolcation & Travel Guide. Frequently Asked Questions About Food in Skagen What food is Skagen famous for? Skagen's location at the northern tip of Denmark means seafood plays a major role in its cuisine. Fresh fish, herring and other seafood feature prominently, alongside traditional Danish dishes and more contemporary Nordic cooking. Where should I eat seafood in Skagen? Skagen's harbour is an obvious place to begin, with restaurants serving fish and seafood close to the town's working fishing port. Historic hotels and newer restaurants elsewhere in Skagen also make extensive use of local and seasonal ingredients. What is smørrebrød? Smørrebrød is the classic Danish open-faced sandwich, traditionally made with rye bread and topped with ingredients ranging from herring and other fish to meat, cheese and vegetables. Is Skagen good for food lovers? Yes. Skagen combines a strong fishing heritage with traditional Danish cooking and a newer generation of chefs interested in local ingredients and contemporary Nordic cuisine. Does Denmark make cider? Yes. Although Denmark is much better known for beer, Danish cider makers are increasingly making use of the country's many apple varieties. During my visit to Skagen I discovered some excellent locally made craft cider. Fishing vessels old and new in Skagen harbour