Most guides to this part of California treat it as one long tasting room, a string of vineyards to work through, then a hotel back in Santa Rosa at the end of the day. Sonoma County holds more than that within a short drive: a historic plaza set around a Spanish mission, an old-growth redwood grove twenty minutes from the nearest vines, and a coastline that most first-time visitors never see. Wine is part of the picture here, not the whole of it. A Valley Made for Slow Mornin