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Martin Hesp

Winter Sun in Gran Canaria: Why Las Palmas is the Ultimate January Escape

Winter Sun in Gran Canaria: Why Las Palmas is the Ultimate January Escape

Winter Sun in Gran Canaria: Escaping January in the Canary Islands

January can be a grim cold time in the northern hemisphere. I, for one, like heading south if I can, come the end of the month when winter seems to have gone on just too long. Gran Canaria is a place that can be high on the list for winter destinations.

Las Canteras—Las Palmas crown jewele

Las Canteras is Las Palmas’ crown jewel

Green Gran Canaria: Mountains, Flowers and Hidden Valleys

Think green. Think boundless mountainsides covered in flowers. Think running water tinkling through pretty villages perched on the sides of dramatic gorges. Think almond blossom gleaming all white and lovely in secret coombes two thousand feet above the sea. And, higher still, conjure an image the cool green scented zone of coniferous cloud forests wafting in the warm breeze.

Staying in Las Palmas: An Unlikely Base on Gran Canaria

Having said all that I stayed in the in somewhat unlikely location of the capital city, Las Palmas.

Las Palmas

A great many northern Europeans will probably not have heard of this place but, with a population of nearly 400,000, it’s one of the 10 biggest cities in all of Spain.

Or to put it another way, it is the largest European Community city outside Europe. Located just over 90 miles off the Saharan coast and more than 830 from the Iberian peninsula, it does at times feel more African or South American than European.

Las Palmas de Gran Canaria: Geography, Grit and Energy

Unlike its neighbouring mountain range, you could in no way describe Las Palmas as beautiful or even handsome – it’s a sprawling community built across a great isthmus between volcanic cliffs and what would otherwise be a small island.

side street in Las Palmas, Gran Canaria

However, I loved the place. It has a pounding vibrancy that I’ve not seen in other European cities for some while – and the South American link is relevant. In 1492 Christopher Columbus anchored here and spent time on the island while on his first trip to the Americas. He also stopped on his way back, and the city has a museum dedicated to him in its charming old Vegueta quarter.

Vegueta, Columbus and the Historic Heart of Las Palmas

Aside from teeming streets lined with the usual tapas bars and restaurants this city is seems more in tune with the sea than most. That’s not really surprising as one side of the downtown area plays host to a large port, while the other is dominated by an even larger beach.

Life on Las Canteras Beach: Evenings by the Atlantic

It’s to this beach that the entire population seems to decant in the evenings and at weekends. The tower blocks spill their human content and what does that spillage do? It surfs the giant waves. It promenades along the seafront. It preens, looks, admires, laughs, talks, preens again, and eats.

Martin Hesp having a drink in Las Palmas, Gran Canaria

The author relaxing in a beach bar, Las Palma

Beyond the City: Hiking and Landscapes of Gran Canaria

As I say, I loved it - but I loved getting out of the city just as much and enjoyed some of the finest hiking routes on the island.

Gran Canaria’s northern coastline

Gran Canaria’s northern coastline

They call Gran Canaria the “miniature continent” because of its amazing array of different climates and landscapes. The round, dart-board of an isle is built around a massive volcano system which rises, at Pico de Las Nieves, to an impressive 6,390 feet.

Gran Canaria mountainous interior

Gran Canaria mountainous interior

The Capital’s New Pulse: Why Las Palmas is More Relevant Than Ever

If you return to Las Palmas today, you will find that the "pounding vibrancy" has only intensified. It is no longer just a haven for sun-starved northern Europeans; it has transformed into a global hub. By the start of 2025, the city’s population continues to hover around the 380,000 mark, maintaining its status as Spain’s ninth-largest city and a critical bridge between three continents.

Inland, not far from Las Palmas

Inland, not far from Las Palmas

But there is a new "spillage" onto the streets. Alongside the local surfers and the evening promenaders, you will now find a burgeoning tribe of "digital nomads." Drawn by the 17.7 million annual visitors to the Canary Islands in 2024, many have decided to swap their grey offices for the co-working spaces that now line the streets behind Las Canteras. In fact, Las Palmas has recently been ranked as one of the top remote-work destinations in the world, proving that its unique blend of African proximity and European infrastructure is a winning formula for the modern age.

Las Canteras: The City of Sand and Its Blue Flag Standard

The beach I mentioned—that vast, golden crescent of Las Canteras—remains the city’s crown jewel. In 2025, it once again secured its Blue Flag status, an international hallmark of water quality and environmental management that it has held for decades.

What makes it truly special is La Barra, the natural volcanic reef that acts as a giant breakwater. It creates a tranquil lagoon where, even in the depths of January, you can snorkel amongst schools of ornate wrasse and damselfish while the giant Atlantic rollers crash harmlessly just a few hundred yards out at sea. It is this duality—the wild ocean and the protected pool—that sums up the city’s character.

A Sustainable Miniature Continent: Beyond the City Walls

Escaping the city is easier than ever. Gran Canaria has doubled down on its commitment to the environment, with nearly 43% of the island’s territory now protected as a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve.

If you head for the heights of Pico de las Nieves (reaching that impressive 6,390 feet), you aren't just looking at a view; you are witnessing a sophisticated ecological recovery. The "cloud forests" I spoke of are part of a massive reforestation project aimed at capturing the moisture from the trade winds—locally known as the Alisios.

Gran Canaria interior

Gran Canaria interior

Whether you are seeking the 1492 history of the Vegueta quarter or the high-altitude silence of the almond groves, Las Palmas remains the perfect, "unlikely" base. It is a city that doesn't just sit by the sea; it lives and breathes with it.

Our 2025 Remember - Part 2, From July

Our 2025 Remember - Part 2, From July