Few states hide behind their reputation the way New Jersey does. People picture turnpike exits and refinery smokestacks, then miss the mountains, the river towns, and 130 miles of coastline packed into a compact place. A vehicle changes everything here. The best of it sits between the highway markers, not on them, and a loosely mapped route puts all of it within a single unhurried week. This is a state made for driving. Distances are short, the roads connect cleanly, and the scenery shifts from ridge-line to farmland to ocean in the span of an afternoon. A first-timer's path runs from the northern highlands down to the southern tip, with plenty of room to wander. Getting on the Road Most visitors land at Newark Liberty, which sits minutes from the Turnpike and the Parkway, the two spines that carry you anywhere you want to go. Rental counters sit in the consolidated center at the Terminal A garage, a short AirTrain hop from the other terminals. Newark Airport transportation options also run into the city and nearby towns if the opening night is closer in. A few things smooth the start of any Jersey drive. The Garden State Parkway runs north to south and reaches nearly every shore stop, right down to Exit 0. The Parkway still takes cash, though an E-ZPass moves faster and covers ramp booths that go unstaffed. The Atlantic City Expressway went cashless, so there is no cash option at all on the run into Atlantic City. Southbound Exit 125 on the Parkway is E-ZPass only too. Friday and Sunday afternoons clog the coastal stretch, so midday hours move faster. Gas stations here fill your tank for you, since state law bans self-service. Head north to begin. The mountains surprise almost everyone. The Northern Highlands The northwest corner catches most first-timers off guard. High Point State Park caps the highlands at its summit. A 220-foot monument there looks out over three states at once, and the terrain feels closer to the Adirondacks than to anything near the city. The drive up alone justifies the detour. South of there, the Delaware Water Gap cuts a dramatic notch where the water slices between two ridges. The Mount Tammany trail climbs to the most photographed view in the region, a steep but short reward for anyone willing to sweat a little. Waterfalls, overlooks, and calm picnic sites line the roads through the recreation area, and marked spots like Turtle Beach are where swimming is allowed. Nearer the cities, Paterson Great Falls thunders through the centre of an old mill town. The cascade ranks among the largest in the eastern part of the country, and a footbridge puts you right over the drop. It forms a natural pivot point ahead of the turn toward the river. River Towns Worth a Slow Afternoon The Delaware River forms the western edge, and a string of small towns along it rewards an unhurried afternoon. This stretch trades big sights for walkable main streets, antique shops, and old stone buildings. Lambertville anchors the area with galleries, a well-known flea market, and a walkable bridge across to Pennsylvania. Frenchtown packs cafes and independent shops into a few blocks beside the water. Stockton runs smaller still, an easy stop between the other two. A meal at a riverside restaurant caps the day well, and the towns sit close enough together to see all three in one easy loop. Running the Shore South Now for the part most people come for. The Jersey Shore is not one place but dozens of towns strung along the Parkway. Driving the coast from top to bottom shows off how different each one feels. Groups covering several shore towns in one day also need to think about parking and keeping everyone together. When several cars would complicate the plan, an NJ car service can keep the group on the same schedule between stops. Start at Sandy Hook, a barrier spit whose lighthouse, built in 1764, is the oldest still operating in the country. No beach tag here, though the park charges for parking in season. From there, the classics unravel in order. Asbury Park pairs a revived boardwalk with a serious music scene, anchored by the Stone Pony, long tied to Springsteen through his frequent turns onstage. Point Pleasant Beach has the boardwalk-and-arcade version of the shore, family-friendly and lively. Atlantic City brings casinos, a long boardwalk, and sand that costs nothing to sit on. Wildwood counters with free beaches and a neon strip of midcentury motels. The shore towns differ enough that choosing the right stops matters: Asbury Park emphasises music and dining, Point Pleasant Beach suits families seeking boardwalk attractions, and Wildwood combines free beach access with a larger amusement district. The Finish at Cape May Every southbound run ends at the same place, and it earns the reputation. Cape May sits just past Exit 0, the southern end of the Parkway, and it makes the strongest case of any shore town for a first visit. A National Historic District holds more than 600 preserved Victorian structures, from summer houses to old hotels, painted, porched, and impossibly photogenic. The town blends a walkable downtown, a calm beach, and a dining scene that punches above its size. Whale and dolphin watching launches from the harbour, and the Cape May Lighthouse rewards the climb with a wide view of where the bay meets the ocean. It is the kind of place that makes a fitting last stop, since going any farther means leaving the state entirely. Making the Trip Your Own The beauty of a Jersey road trip is how little it demands of an itinerary. A few closing pointers help a debut run land well. Give the north and the shore two or three days each, rather than cramming both into a long weekend. Book beach-town lodging early in peak months, when Cape May and the Wildwoods fill fast. Check whether a beach needs a tag, since some towns charge and others, like Wildwood, cost nothing. Leave the route loose, because the best finds here tend to sit just off the mapped line. New Jersey rewards the person who slows down and looks past the highway. Mountains in the morning, a river town at lunch, and the ocean by evening add up to somewhere far larger than its map suggests. The exits everyone jokes about turn out to be doorways, and a first drive through them tends to rewrite whatever a visitor expected. This is a contributed artilce...

And then there was Vitznau, All distant and swaddled at the end of its lake. Home to the westering sun, A vertical crucible of evening light. We dined there one hot summer night, Years ago when the world seemed far younger, Not quite formed, like some rough-hewn Sinuous, razor-backed, fist of an alp. And then there was Vitznau, Dream-like and still, dwarfed by its mountains, Styled by its romantic, Bel-Epoque past. Reflected alone, in the depths of its lake. Beacon-like in the echo of those waters Did we dine all golden and lit. Sun sinking over a luminous Lucerne, Heralding the warm embrace of the night. Beneath Pilaus and Riga on a waterside terrace, We dined off chestnut soup and lake trout, Served by the laughing imp of a waiter From the old faded not jaded lakeside hotel. And now here is Vitznau. Years later, this cold winter’s eve. The past, a bird’s wingbeat, Of memory, Vanishing into that soft alpine night. Mark Twain went to Vitznau and wrote: “We could not speak. We could hardly breathe. We could only gaze in drunken ecstasy And drink it in.” Vitznau and The Lemon Tree Forest Vitznau has stayed with me rather more than most places I've visited in Switzerland. In fact, it features in a whole chapter of my book The Lemon Tree Forest, which draws on some of the people, places and experiences I've encountered during a lifetime of travelling. So perhaps it was inevitable that, after another visit to Vitznau and some time spent thinking about Mark Twain's own affection for the place, I ended up writing a poem about it. The poem follows below. It is a rather different way of remembering Vitznau, but then travel memories have a habit of appearing in unexpected forms.

If human emotions were recipe ingredients I’d sprinkle my daily dishes with plenty of surprise and inspiration. Easy words to say, I know - especially in the dark post-festive days of winter - but you can be surprised and inspired in the most unlikely of ways or places. The theme for this food article came to me as I strolled through the Swiss city of Lucerne recently, admiring the twice-weekly winter market that sets up by the historic riverside. The Swiss tend to be renown for their heavy winter dishes - cold-beating rostis, molten-cheese fondues, raclettes and the like - but anyone who has travelled widely in that icy country will know that the alpine salads and soups are things of wonder. Switzerland's Unexpected Winter Salad Culture Perhaps Switzerland would not be the first country you’d name in a top-top-listing of national cuisines, but their salads and soups are among the best in the world. Of course, Switzerland isn't the only European destination with hidden culinary depths—read my full exploration of Vienna's food scene beyond the standard Wiener Schnitzel. When I visited the market in Lucerne last week I could understand why. The quality and variety of vegetables on the stalls was first class. The local farmers seem to be able to grow a much wider range of veg - including salads - than we manage here in the UK, despite the fact that they face regular winter temperatures far colder than ours. And it’s not because of hot-houses or poly-tunnels, I hasten to add. Clever use of sheltered south-facing slopes combined with a sensible selection of all-weather veg does the trick. Planning your own mountain escape or exploring the Swiss Alps? Read my comprehensive Switzerland Travel Guide: Unspunnen, Alpine Culture, Historic Rails & Mountain Flavours for more features on scenic mountain railways, historic hotels, local festivals, and culinary heritage. The Secret of Swiss Salad Dressing So what exactly is it that makes a Swiss winter salad taste so good? Well, I think I've finally worked it out. It isn't some exotic herb or expensive imported ingredient. It isn't even necessarily the wonderful local cream and cheese that the Swiss are so good at producing. It is often something considerably more humble: vegetable bouillon. The trick is to add just enough to a creamy, slightly acidic dressing to give it a deeper savoury flavour. And I mean just enough. You don't want your salad to taste of vegetable stock. The bouillon should sit in the background, quietly adding a little salt, a little umami and a remarkable depth of flavour. It is one of those culinary tricks that makes you wonder why you didn't think of it yourself. And once you know about it, you start noticing it. A dressing based around crème fraîche, buttermilk or mayonnaise can be perfectly pleasant on its own. Add vinegar or lemon juice and some mustard and you have the familiar balance of richness and acidity. But add a small pinch of good vegetable bouillon and suddenly the whole thing seems to become more interesting. The Swiss, of course, have been doing this sort of thing for years. That is one of the things I enjoy about travelling for food. You don't necessarily discover a completely new ingredient. Sometimes you discover that somebody else has been using an ordinary ingredient in a much cleverer way than you have. And that, I suspect, is the real secret of the Swiss salad. Alpine Winter Markets and All-Weather Greens Take lamb’s lettuce (as we call it) as one example. For time immemorial this has been a staple winter-salad in the alpine countries, and they do wonderful things with the healthy green leaves. They’ve also been keen on the lumpy looking celeriac since the Romans first took it up into the mountains. Both of these vegetables are capable of being turned into wonderful winter salads - if you know what you are doing. And the Swiss certainly seem to know their onions when it comes to the arrays of pleasant creamy, slightly vinegary, always savoury, dressings which they employ to take their winter salads to another level. Of course, there can be no denying that the Swiss make some of the best cheese on the world - and often this is grated into a winter salad. But they also make fabulous cream, and many a salad I’ve enjoyed in the mountains has been dressed with some kind of lubricating favour-enhancer that will have ingredients from a dairy. And, talking of flavour enhancers, I have a suspicion that some alpine chefs secretly throw a pinch of Swiss vegetable bouillon powder into their dressings. In fact, I know they do. And why not? It’s amazing stuff. But if the use of a flavour enhancing powder out of a tin worries you, why not have a bash at making your own? If that sounds difficult or way out of your league, I’m here to tell you that making such a thing is comparatively simple, especially if you have a kitchen dehydrator the likes of which you can purchase on the internet for under £40. Alternatively you can use an oven - the plate-warning unit at the bottom of an Aga or Rayburn would be ideal. How to Make Your Own Swiss Vegetable Bouillon Powder You simply grate or very thinly slice a selection of winter veg - like carrots, leeks, onions, parsnips, a little garlic, a few large radishes - rub some sea salt (how much is up to you) into the resultant mix and turn the lot out into the drying racks or your dehydrator or on parchment above grills placed in your low-heated oven, spread thinly, and let the warmth do it’s work. Every now and again you must turn the mix over or agitate it in some way to make sure there’s no damp layer left at the bottom. This can take eight to ten hours in a low oven, longer in a dehydrator - not that the matters in the case of the ovens mentioned or in the specialist food dryer. The ovens will be warm anyway, and the average food dehydrator uses as much electricity as a small light bulb. When the grated veg’ mix is dry enough to snap or crumble between your fingers, simply blitz the whole lot in a food processor until, within a few seconds, it turns to powder. You can some pinches of dried herbs at this point, but be careful - you don’t want them to dominate the flavour. You can also play around with the seasoning, adding more salt if necessary, or just a tiny pinch fresh ground white pepper. A lot of fuss to make a cupful of bullion powder you can buy for a couple of quid? Well yes, and no. For a start there will be many people who get satisfaction out of being so self-sufficient - and there will be those who love the idea of using up piles of veg that might otherwise grow weary in the cupboard before being added to the compost heap. Certainly if I was a vegetarian or a vegan, I’d be making this sort of mix all the time. And the wonderful thing is that, if you get into the habit of making regular mixes, you can easily tweak the flavours. For example, by adding smoked sea salt or your own smoked garlic you can introduce an extreme savoury umami tang to your homemade bullion powder, and therefore to your eventual dishes. Which is a magical ability to have if you are looking at what would otherwise be a fairly bland vegan soup. But add a hefty pinch to a creamy salad dressing and you will end up with a dish that seems to go way beyond its constituent parts. You will have people at your table saying it’s the best salad they’ve ever eaten, but they won’t quite be able to put their finger on exactly why. A Culinary Secret Revealed in a Blizzard It was the same for me until the time when I was staying at a tiny inn or alm, high in the mountains near Andermatt. A bunch of my fellow journalists and I were stranded up there in a blizzard, so with nothing else to do I spent the day volunteering in the kitchen and helping to keep us all fed. That is when I saw that surreptitious pinch of vegetable bullion powder being added to the salad dressing. The innkeeper told me she’d always done it - and indeed she made large quantities of the magical powder from a wide range of vegetables growing in her garden each summer. Clever people, those Swiss. They keep a lot of their secrets close to their chest, but unlike the contents of their famous bank vaults, this one can be shared by us all. A vegetable stall in Lucerne in winter Swiss based salad recipes Lamb’s lettuce - or Nüsslisalat - is also called Feldsalat, Wintersalat, Ackersalat, Vogersalat, or Rapunzel in Switzerland and parts of Germany and Austria, and is harvested harvested throughout the winter and mixed with a little chopped egg and a creamy dressing, served alongside river fish like trout or grilled chicken. Add what you will to the lamb’s lettuce - I put in julienned carrot and celeriac, some chopped and salted radishes and a spring onion or two. For the dressing mix… 2 tablespoons mayonnaise ¼ cup (60ml) white wine vinegar ½ cup mild-flavoured oil (like avocado oil) 1 small clove garlic 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard ¼ teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon coarsely ground pepper Large pinch of Swiss or homemade vegetable bullion powder Gemischter Salat, literally translated, is a simple mixed salad where the constituent parts of have been marinated. The one I had in Lucerne contained carrot, sweet corn, sliced red onion and cucumber and julienned celeriac. The marinade is usually a crème fraiche or mayonnaise base with vinegar to cut through the creaminess, along with fresh herbs such as dill or tarragon which are added last minute. The acid and cream work well, and the vegetable bullion powder adds the required saltiness and umami. Dressing for my version of Gemischter Salat 60 ml creme fraiche or buttermilk 1 spoonful plain, natural yogurt (optional) 2 Tbsp. apple cider vinegar (or red wine vinegar) 1/4 tsp. Dijon mustard 1 Tbsp. extra virgin olive oil 1 tsp. honey 1/4 tsp of vegetable bouillon powder Pepper to taste 2 Tbsp. chopped tarragon Frequently Asked Questions About Swiss Salads Why are Swiss winter salads so flavourful? While alpine countries are famous for rich comfort foods like fondue, their winter salads rely on incredibly fresh all-weather greens like lamb's lettuce and celeriac. The real secret to their deep, savoury depth is the addition of a surreptitious pinch of vegetable bouillon powder mixed directly into a creamy, vinegary dairy dressing. Can you grow salad greens in cold winter climates? Yes. Farmers in alpine regions like Switzerland make clever use of sheltered, south-facing mountain slopes and carefully select hardy, all-weather winter varieties. This allows them to harvest a wide variety of fresh greens without relying heavily on heated greenhouses or polytunnels. How do you make homemade vegetable bouillon powder? To make your own savoury bouillon powder, thinly slice or grate a mix of winter vegetables (such as carrots, leeks, onions, and garlic) and rub them with sea salt. Dry the mixture in a food dehydrator or a low-temperature oven for 8 to 10 hours until completely brittle, then blend into a fine powder using a food processor.

Emmental Cheese: History, Holes and How It's Made We recently visited a remarkable and rather beautiful part of Switzerland where they make one of the world's most famous cheeses – Emmental. It is the sort of place where the landscape seems to have been designed specifically for making cheese. The green hills of the Emmental region roll away towards the mountains, cows graze in the fields and there are traditional farmhouses scattered across the countryside. And, of course, there is cheese. Lots of it. Planning your own mountain escape or exploring the Swiss Alps? Read my comprehensive Switzerland Travel Guide: Unspunnen, Alpine Culture, Historic Rails & Mountain Flavours for more features on scenic mountain railways, historic hotels, local festivals, and culinary heritage. In fact, once you start looking at a traditional wheel of Emmental, you realise that this is not simply something you put on a sandwich. These are enormous cheeses, weighing anything up to around 120kg, and their manufacture is a surprisingly intricate business. So I was rather pleased to discover that the story of this famous Swiss cheese can be explored at the Emmentaler Visitor Centre, right in the heart of the region that gave the cheese its name. Discovering Emmental Cheese in Switzerland The Emmental takes its name from the valley of the River Emme in the canton of Bern. Cheese-making in the region can be traced back to the 13th century and, over the centuries, Emmentaler became one of Switzerland's great culinary exports. There is something rather satisfying about visiting the place where a food originated. We all know Emmental cheese. Or at least we think we do. It is the cheese with the enormous holes, isn't it? Well, yes – but there is considerably more to it than that. The traditional cheese is made from fresh, untreated cow's milk, with the cows feeding on grass and hay rather than silage. The milk, along with water, rennet, bacterial cultures and salt, is transformed into those enormous golden wheels that have become synonymous with Swiss cheese. And there is a very good reason why the Swiss take the business so seriously. Our Emmental cheese-maker guide Visiting the Emmentaler Visitor Centre To celebrate its heritage, the Emmentaler Visitor Centre was established in the heart of the Emmental region. It offers a fascinating look at the history, production and cultural importance of the cheese, with interactive exhibits, demonstrations of cheese-making and, naturally, opportunities to taste the finished product. This is not one of those places where you are simply shown a few photographs and then pointed towards a gift shop. You actually get an idea of how much work goes into producing the stuff. And I found that particularly interesting because, although we tend to think of cheese-making as something rather simple – milk goes in, cheese comes out – the reality is much more complicated. There is a remarkable amount of knowledge involved in getting everything just right. The Emmental Show Dairy, for example, brings together several generations of cheese dairies and demonstrates both traditional and more modern methods of production. Visitors can follow an indoor experience explaining the history and manufacture of Emmentaler, and there is also the opportunity to see cheese-making taking place. It is, in other words, a place where food becomes history. A Short History of Emmental Cheese Emmental is an ancient cheese by any standards. Switzerland Tourism traces cheese production in the Emmental region back to the 13th century, while the Emmentaler organisation records one of the first written references to the cheese in 1557. In the early days, Emmentaler was produced largely during the summer on Alpine meadows. Then, in the early 19th century, cheese dairies began appearing down in the valleys. A dairy established in Kiesen in 1815 is recognised as an important milestone in the development of valley production. As more dairies appeared, the production and distribution of Emmentaler expanded far beyond its original home. It eventually became a cheese known far beyond Switzerland. But perhaps the most remarkable thing is how little the basic method has changed. Modern machinery has obviously made some jobs easier, but the fundamental production process remains rooted in traditional cheesemaking. Today, Emmentaler AOP is still produced in around 110 cheese dairies. Why Does Emmental Cheese Have Holes? Now we come to the really obvious question. Why does Emmental have those great big holes? The answer is actually rather wonderful. The holes – or "eyes", as cheesemakers call them – are created during the fermentation and maturation of the cheese. Bacteria added during the cheesemaking process produce carbon dioxide as part of the fermentation. The gas becomes trapped within the curd, creating pockets which gradually develop into the familiar holes as the cheese matures. And these aren't simply random holes. The size and appearance of them are carefully monitored as the cheese matures. In fact, the holes are part of the assessment of the finished cheese. So when you next look at a slice of Emmental and see those great round gaps, remember that you are actually looking at the result of a carefully controlled biological process. Which is a rather more interesting way of looking at a cheese sandwich. How Is Emmental Cheese Made? The process starts with the milk. Traditional Emmentaler AOP is made using fresh, untreated raw cow's milk. The cows are fed on grass and hay, and the milk is delivered to the cheese dairy very quickly – generally within a short distance of the farm – so that it can be processed while it is still fresh. The milk is warmed to around 32°C and bacterial cultures are added. Then comes the rennet, which causes the milk to curdle and separates the solid curds from the liquid whey. The curd is cut into small pieces, heated and stirred before being transferred into enormous circular moulds. And I do mean enormous. A traditional Emmentaler wheel can be around 80 to 100 centimetres across and weigh somewhere between 75 and 120kg, with an average wheel weighing around 95kg. That is a lot of cheese. The young cheese is then pressed, placed in a salt bath and sent into the maturation process. And this is where patience becomes rather important. The Long Wait for a Swiss Cheese Emmentaler is not made in a hurry. The wheels spend at least 120 days maturing, initially in a fermentation cellar and then in a cooler storage cellar. During the fermentation stage, temperatures of around 19–24°C encourage the process which creates the carbon dioxide responsible for those famous holes. Once the holes have reached the right size, the cheese is moved into a cooler environment where the process slows and the flavour continues to develop. And the cheesemakers don't simply leave the wheels sitting there. Each wheel is regularly checked and turned. According to the Emmentaler organisation, the wheels are turned once a week during maturation, while the cheesemakers keep a close eye on their development. There are different levels of maturity, too. A young Emmentaler has a mild, nutty flavour. As it ages, the flavour becomes stronger and more pronounced. Emmentaler AOP is sold as mild after at least four months, mature from eight months and extra-mature after twelve months or more. So even here, there is more variation than you might expect from a cheese we tend to regard as simply "the one with the holes". The Remarkable Size of an Emmental Cheese Wheel One of the things that really strikes you when you see traditional Emmental being made is the sheer scale of it. These are not little rounds of cheese that you could comfortably carry under one arm. The wheels can be up to a metre across and weigh as much as 120kg. It is difficult to appreciate just how much milk is required to make one until you see the size of the finished product. Switzerland Tourism says that around 12 litres of milk are required to make a single kilogram of Emmentaler. So when you are looking at one of those great golden wheels, you are looking at the concentrated result of an extraordinary amount of milk, time, skill and patience. From the Emmental to the Rest of the World There is something rather charming about the fact that this cheese began as a local product of one Swiss valley and ended up becoming famous all over the world. It has also become one of the cheeses most closely associated with Switzerland itself. But there is an important distinction between genuine Emmentaler AOP and the many cheeses produced elsewhere that look a bit like it. The AOP designation protects the origin and production of the traditional cheese. Genuine Emmentaler AOP carries the appropriate dairy mark and cheese dairy number, allowing the wheel to be traced back to its place of production. That seems entirely appropriate. Because once you have visited the Emmental and seen how much tradition goes into making this extraordinary cheese, you begin to understand why the Swiss are rather protective of it. A Taste of the Emmental Of course, eventually all this talk of cheese has to come down to the important business of eating it. And Emmental is an extremely versatile cheese. Young Emmentaler is mild, slightly sweet and nutty, while older versions become considerably stronger and more full-flavoured. It works beautifully on a cheeseboard, but it is equally at home melted into a dish or used in some of the classic foods of Switzerland. But for me, the pleasure of visiting the Emmental was not simply about eating the cheese. It was about understanding where it came from. We spend an awful lot of time travelling around the world looking at famous sights, but sometimes the most interesting discoveries are rather more modest. A cheese dairy in a beautiful Swiss valley may not have the instant drama of the Matterhorn or the grandeur of St Moritz. But when you stand there looking at an enormous wheel of Emmental and realise that the basic principles behind it have been passed down for centuries, it is difficult not to feel that you are looking at a small piece of Switzerland's history. And, naturally, it tastes rather good too. Emmental cheese, known for its characteristic large holes and distinct flavour, is a traditional Swiss cheese with a rich history. It originates from the Emme Valley (Emmental) in the Canton of Bern, Switzerland, dating back to the early 13th century. The cheese was first mentioned in historical documents in 1293, but its unique recipe and production techniques were likely developed much earlier. The large holes in Emmental cheese, often referred to as 'eyes', are created by the release of gases by bacteria used during the fermentation process. These bacteria consume the lactic acid in the cheese and release carbon dioxide gas, which forms the holes. The size and number of the holes are considered a sign of quality and are carefully regulated during the cheese-making process. Emmental is made from raw cow's milk and has a hard, yellowish-golden rind. The cheese is known for its mild, slightly nutty, and buttery flavor, which becomes more pronounced as it ages. Traditionally, it is produced in large wheels that can weigh up to 130 kilograms (almost 300 pounds). The cheese is deeply ingrained in Swiss culture and cuisine, often used in dishes like fondue and raclette. It's also popular internationally, influencing the production of similar cheeses in various countries. Frequently Asked Questions About Emmental Cheese What is Emmental cheese? Emmental is a traditional Swiss cheese named after the Emme Valley in the canton of Bern. It is famous around the world for its large holes, mild nutty flavour and distinctive large wheels. Where does Emmental cheese come from? Emmental cheese comes from the Emmental region of Switzerland, in the canton of Bern. The cheese takes its name from the Emme Valley, and production in the region dates back many centuries. Why does Emmental cheese have holes? The famous holes, or "eyes", are created during the fermentation and maturation of the cheese. Bacteria produce carbon dioxide during propionic acid fermentation, and the gas becomes trapped inside the developing cheese, creating the characteristic holes. How is Emmental cheese made? Traditional Emmentaler is made from untreated raw cow's milk. Bacterial cultures and rennet are added to the milk before the curds are cut, pressed and placed in a brine bath. The cheese then matures in controlled conditions, developing its characteristic flavour and holes. Is Emmental cheese the same as Swiss cheese? Not exactly. Outside Switzerland, "Swiss cheese" is often used as a general term for a hole-filled cheese similar to Emmental. Emmentaler is the original Swiss cheese associated with the Emmental region and is one of the world's best-known Swiss cheeses. How old is Emmental cheese? Emmental cheese has a very long history. Switzerland Tourism traces its production in the Emmental region back to the 13th century, while the Emmentaler organisation records written evidence of the cheese from the 16th century. What does Emmental cheese taste like? Emmental has a mild, slightly sweet and nutty flavour when young, becoming more pronounced and aromatic as it ages. Its characteristic flavour develops during the fermentation and maturation process. Is Emmental cheese made from raw milk? Traditional Emmentaler AOP is made from untreated raw cow's milk. The cows are fed grass and hay rather than silage, and the fresh milk is delivered rapidly to the cheese dairy for processing. How big is an Emmental cheese wheel? Traditional Emmentaler wheels are enormous. They can measure around 80 to 100 centimetres across and weigh approximately 75 to 100 kilograms. Can you visit an Emmental cheese dairy in Switzerland? Yes. The Emmentaler Visitor Centre in the Emmental region allows visitors to learn about the history and production of the cheese, with cheese-making demonstrations and opportunities to taste the finished product. Your visit provides a first-hand look at this important part of Swiss food culture.

There’s an amazing way of crossing the Rhine River in Basel, Switzerland. Four unique ferries operate without engines, relying solely on the river's current for propulsion. We crossed the higih winter flow recently on one and had to stop and go back just after we started crossing because a huge Rhne-ark barge came careering downstream under one of the bridges at great speed. Basel's Remarkable Rhine Ferries This environmentally-friendly approach taken by the engineless ferries not only preserves the natural tranquility of the river but also highlights Basel's commitment to sustainable urban mobility. An engineless ferry on the Rhine at Basel The ferries are connected to a steel cable stretches across the river, ensuring they remain on course while utilising the natural power of the Rhine's current. Riding these ferries you experience a serene and altogether interesting journey which offers panoramic views of Basel's scenic waterfront. Planning your own mountain escape or exploring the Swiss Alps? Read my comprehensive Switzerland Travel Guide: Unspunnen, Alpine Culture, Historic Rails & Mountain Flavours for more features on scenic mountain railways, historic hotels, local festivals, and culinary heritage. Four of these ferries, each with its own distinctive charm and named after a local landmark, serve different points along the Rhine. These ferries not only provide a practical cross-river service for pedestrians and cyclists but also hold cultural significance, being a part of Basel's riverine heritage for over a century. How Do Basel's Cable Ferries Work? The operation of these ferries is straightforward yet ingenious. The ferryman, pictured below, adjusts the angle of the ferry to the current, allowing the river to push the ferry across. This simple mechanism is both effective and reliable, demonstrating a traditional method of harnessing natural forces for transportation. A Unique Way to Cross the Rhine These foot ferries offer a unique experience, blending tradition with sustainability. They are not just a means of transportation but a symbol of Basel's history and commitment to preserving its natural environment while providing a vital service to its inhabitants and visitors alike. See our post on the Christmas market at Basel here Frequently Asked Questions About Basel's Rhine Ferries What are the Rhine ferries in Basel? Basel's Rhine ferries are four small passenger ferries that cross the river between Grossbasel and Kleinbasel. Unlike conventional ferries, they have no engines and are propelled entirely by the natural current of the Rhine. How do the Basel Rhine ferries work? The ferries are attached to steel cables stretched across the Rhine. The ferryman changes the angle of the boat in relation to the river current, allowing the force of the water to push the ferry across the river. It is a remarkably simple system that has been used in Basel for generations. How many Rhine ferries are there in Basel? There are four Rhine ferries: Wild Maa, Leu, Vogel Gryff and Ueli. They operate at different points along the Rhine and connect the two sides of the city. Do the Basel ferries have engines? No. The ferries are deliberately engineless and use only the natural power of the Rhine's current. Their steel cables keep them on course while the ferryman controls their angle across the river. How much does it cost to cross the Rhine by ferry in Basel? A standard crossing currently costs CHF 2 for an adult and CHF 1 for a child. Bicycles and dogs can also be taken aboard for a small additional charge. Which Basel ferry has the best views? The Münster ferry, known as Leu, is particularly attractive for visitors because the crossing from Kleinbasel towards Grossbasel provides excellent views of Basel Minster and the historic city. Are the Basel Rhine ferries a tourist attraction? Yes, although they are also a practical means of crossing the river for local people. The unusual experience of travelling across the Rhine without an engine makes them one of Basel's more distinctive attractions. When did the first ferry service begin in Basel? The first Basel ferry link was established in 1854, making the Rhine ferries part of a tradition that stretches back more than 170 years. Can you cross the Rhine by ferry in winter? Yes, the ferries operate in winter, although winter timetables are generally shorter and some services operate only in good weather. They may also stop operating when the Rhine reaches particularly high water levels. Are Basel's Rhine ferries worth trying? Definitely. The crossing is brief, but it is an unusual and memorable way to experience Basel and the Rhine. For visitors interested in the city's history, engineering or simply doing something different, it is an experience that costs very little and takes only a few minutes.

If you’re ever travelling through the the heart of Switzerland, you must visit the charming city of Berne, where history, culture, and remarkable architecture intersect. I spent a couple of days in Berne just before Christmas with an international press group, hosted by Swiss Tourism - and a wonderful and very interesting time we had… The Zytglogge Clock Tower in Bern's Old Town The Zytglogge Clock Tower in Bern's Old Town Among Berne’s many attractions is the Zytglogge Clock Tower, which stands as an enduring symbol of the city's heritage, both as a timekeeping marvel and a testament to Swiss craftsmanship. We were fortunate to be given a private tour of this remarkable old clock tower and I, for one, found the hour we spent up in its draughty old floors fascinating. The Zytglogge is situated in Berne's medieval Old Town. Its origins trace back to the early 13th century when it served as one of the primary entrances to the city. Initially constructed in wood, the tower served a defensive function as part of Berne's fortifications. Over time, it underwent numerous renovations and reconstructions, evolving into the impressive structure we admire today. Planning your own mountain escape or exploring the Swiss Alps? Read my comprehensive Switzerland Travel Guide: Unspunnen, Alpine Culture, Historic Rails & Mountain Flavours for more features on scenic mountain railways, historic hotels, local festivals, and culinary heritage. The Astronomical Clock at the Zytglogge The clock itself dates back to the 15th century, ranking as one of Switzerland's oldest. In 1530, master clockmaker Kaspar Brunner installed the Zytglogge's iconic astronomical clock. The amazing and intricate timepiece not only tells the time but also provides astronomical information such as the position of the sun, moon, and zodiac signs. It was installed in the tower in the year 1530 - and its complex workings have been captivating visitors and locals alike for centuries. Brunner's work on the Zytglogge Clock is a testament to the remarkable craftsmanship of his time and remains an enduring symbol of Berne's rich heritage. Architectural Splendour One of the most remarkable features of the tower is its ornate astronomical clock face. This clock face showcases a set of animated figurines that perform a captivating display every hour, drawing crowds of spectators. Among these figurines are the renowned cockerel, jester, and bears, each symbolising different facets of Berne's history and folklore. The tower itself is a striking example of Swiss medieval architecture. Its detailed stonework, elaborate frescoes, and finely crafted sculptures blend the Gothic and Renaissance styles, creating a structure that transports visitors back in time. The Zytglogge stands as a testament to the craftsmanship of its era. Function and Significance Throughout its existence, the tower has served multiple purposes. Initially, it functioned as a city gatehouse, granting access to Berne. In subsequent years, it housed a prison and even accommodated a small fire station. Symbolically, the Zytglogge represents Berne's resilience and ties to its past. It has borne witness to centuries of change, yet it endures as a potent reminder of the city's roots and traditions. It symbolises Berne's commitment to preserving its heritage while embracing the modern era. It’s probably true to say that the clock tower transcends its role as a mere timekeeping device. It stands as a living testament to the city's history, craftsmanship, and cultural identity. Situated right in the heart of the Old Town, this iconic landmark continues to captivate travellers from all corners of the globe. You’ll see crowds of tourists gathering to gaze up at the clock face most days, even in the depths of winter. It offers a glimpse into the past and serves as a reminder of Berne's timeless allure. Einstein House in Berne Just down the main drag you can visit an unassuming apartment building which holds a significant place in the history of science. This unpretentious abode was once home to none other than Albert Einstein, the renowned physicist whose groundbreaking theories revolutionised our understanding of the universe. Einstein, a young patent examiner at the Swiss Patent Office, moved to Berne in 1902 with his wife, Mileva Maric, and their young son, Hans Albert. The couple settled in a modest third-floor apartment at Kramgasse 49, a bustling street in the heart of the city. This apartment, which is now a museum known as the Einstein House, offers visitors a unique opportunity to step into the life and mind of one of the greatest scientific thinkers of all time. You could say the Einstein House in some ways reflects the simplicity and intellectual depth that characterised Einstein himself. The apartment consists of just two small rooms, a kitchen, and a bathroom, providing an intimate look at the modest lifestyle of the Einsteins during their time in Berne. The rooms are adorned with period-appropriate furnishings, and visitors can see personal items, photographs, and letters that offer insights into Einstein's family life and early career. One of the most intriguing aspects of the Einstein House is the study where Albert Einstein developed some of his groundbreaking theories. This room, with its old wooden desk and simple furnishings, is where he formulated the Special Theory of Relativity in 1905, forever changing our understanding of space and time. The blackboard still bears the remnants of his mathematical scribbles, offering a glimpse into the thought processes of a genius. Visitors to the museum can explore the various exhibits and multimedia presentations that delve into Einstein's scientific achievements, his personal life, and his influence on the world. The museum also hosts rotating exhibitions and special events that provide a comprehensive view of Einstein's contributions to science and society. Beyond the physical artefacts, there’s no doubt that the Einstein House holds a sense of reverence and inspiration for those who visit. It's a place where the line between the ordinary and the extraordinary becomes blurred, reminding us that profound ideas can emerge from the most unassuming settings. It's a testament to the power of imagination, curiosity, and dedication to shaping the course of human knowledge. Einstein's time in Berne may have been relatively brief, but the impact of his work and the legacy of his humble apartment continue to resonate with people from all corners of the globe. The Einstein House serves as a symbol of scientific inquiry and innovation, reminding us that even in the most modest of circumstances, one can unlock the secrets of the universe. You could argue that it is a must-visit destination for anyone seeking to appreciate the intersection of genius and everyday life and to pay homage to one of the greatest minds in human history. Frequently Asked Questions About Bern Old Town What is the Zytglogge in Bern? The Zytglogge is Bern's famous medieval clock tower and one of the city's best-known landmarks. It began life as a city gate and has served various purposes over the centuries before becoming the remarkable clock tower seen today. What is special about the Zytglogge clock? The Zytglogge contains an extraordinary astronomical clock dating from 1530. Its elaborate mechanism displays astronomical information and is accompanied by moving figures including bears, a jester and a golden rooster. The spectacle attracts visitors to the Old Town every hour. Can you visit inside the Zytglogge Clock Tower? Yes. Guided tours allow visitors to explore the interior of the tower and see its historic clock mechanism. The climb also provides views over Bern's UNESCO-listed Old Town and, on clear days, towards the Bernese Oberland. Where is the Zytglogge in Bern? The Zytglogge stands in the heart of Bern's medieval Old Town on Kramgasse. It is surrounded by the historic streets, fountains and sandstone buildings for which the city is famous. What is the Einstein House in Bern? The Einstein House is the former apartment at Kramgasse 49 where Albert Einstein lived with his wife Mileva and their son Hans Albert. Today it is a museum containing period furnishings and exhibits about Einstein's life and work in Bern. Did Albert Einstein live in Bern? Yes. Einstein moved to Bern in 1902 after taking a position at the Swiss Patent Office. He later lived at Kramgasse 49, where he developed some of his most important scientific ideas during his extraordinarily productive period around 1905. What did Einstein do in Bern? Einstein worked as a patent examiner at the Swiss Patent Office while living in Bern. During this period he produced several groundbreaking scientific papers, including his work on special relativity in 1905. Is Bern Old Town worth visiting? Absolutely. Bern's Old Town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and contains a remarkable concentration of historic buildings, fountains, arcades and landmarks. The Zytglogge and Einstein House are two particularly interesting stops within the historic centre. How long should you spend in Bern Old Town? You can see the main sights in a few hours, but spending a full day allows time to explore the medieval streets, visit the Zytglogge and Einstein House, stop at cafés and take in some of Bern's other attractions. What other attractions are near the Zytglogge? The Zytglogge is surrounded by Bern's historic Old Town, making it easy to combine with a walk through the UNESCO World Heritage area. The city's other major attractions include the Federal Palace, Bern's famous fountains and the Bear Park. Planning your own mountain escape or exploring the Swiss Alps? Read my comprehensive Switzerland Travel Guide: Unspunnen, Alpine Culture, Historic Rails & Mountain Flavours for more features on scenic mountain railways, historic hotels, local festivals, and culinary heritage.

Who doesn’t love a good Christmas market? 🎄🎇 I’ve been to the one in Bristol, and very jolly it was too! Give me a good quality German sausage and a large glass filled and frothing with a proper Pilsner, and I am a happy festive chap, despite the rain and the chill. You might prefer a warming hot chocolate or mulled wine - whatever your tipple, European-style Christmas markets are one of the great seasonal success stories of recent years. Not surprising... They offer a great deal more in the way of Yuletide atmosphere than, say, a chain store in a shopping mall. 🎁🍷 Bristol's Festive Flair The Bristol version in the central Broadmead shopping area, with just under 40 stalls, does a good job, as do many of the other Christmas markets I’ve visited across the greater South West in recent years.nThese temporary villages, with their mock-log cabins and festive decor, did not exist when I was a lad, but a great many of us are glad they’re here now (even if Brexit did its best to send them packing). We have been borrowing many of Europe’s finer, cosier, winter traditions for centuries and there is something distinctly Brothers Grimm and Germanic about the annual Christmas markets. Why Switzerland's Christmas Markets Are So Special Of course, pine trees, glittering baubles, and copious amounts of snow (fake or otherwise) have nothing to do with the traditional story of a babe born in Bethlehem. Nor do reindeer, elves-on-stilts, bubble-blowing soldiers, balloon artists, or even the yo-ho-ho of the white-bearded wonder himself (all to be seen in Bristol this week). But so what? We love it! 🎅🌲 In fact, some of us adults-who-never-grew-up types will go a long way to pursue a real old-fashioned Christmas. I am one of those people and I did just that a year ago. I travelled to the nearest snowy mountains to visit some authentic, traditional Christmas markets which, to be honest, are in another league to the ones on this side of the Channel. Some of the examples I visited in Switzerland last December have been plying their trade for centuries. Planning your own mountain escape or exploring the Swiss Alps? Read my comprehensive Switzerland Travel Guide: Unspunnen, Alpine Culture, Historic Rails & Mountain Flavours for more features on scenic mountain railways, historic hotels, local festivals, and culinary heritage. In Pursuit of Snow 💨🌨️ What really attracted me to go all that way was the promise of real snow. Not the stuff sprayed from a can, but thick white carpets which are the prerequisite of an authentic Christmas. In living memory, there used to be at least half a chance that the white stuff would decorate December 25th. Now, of course, there is a rapidly decreasing chance of a White Christmas. Yes, we had a quick dose last week, but it was here-today-gone-tomorrow. I am talking about the promise of deep carpets of all-embracing, somehow-sanitising, virgin snow. The kind which allows you to see Father Christmas’s footsteps leading up to the cottage chimney. Geneva Christmas Market: Noël au Quai So when the Swiss tourism department asked if I’d like to visit some of the oldest traditional Christmas markets on the planet, I grabbed my passport. And you can imagine my delight when I landed at Geneva airport to be greeted by a big dump of gorgeously white and crisp Alpine snow. I was glad I’d packed every thermal bit of underwear I possess. By the time we’d made our way to Noël au Quai, located on the banks of Geneva’s large and very windy lake (and awarded the title of “Best Christmas Market in Switzerland”), I needed every inch. But the inner journalist was soon thawing, thanks to several heated slugs of Glühwein - made, as you’ll know, by heating red wine with spices like cinnamon, cloves, star anise, and orange zest. In French-speaking parts of Switzerland, it is often referred to as “Vin Chaud” - and the one I was downing included a noticeable amount of brandy. Swiss Christmas Food: Glühwein and Fondue Later, up at Berne’s magical Christmas market, I enjoyed a Glühwein enhanced with herbal liqueurs. I was so impressed with these hot drinks I asked my Swiss guide why he thought they tasted superior to the mulled wines we tend to drink in the UK... “It’s all about care and patience,” he replied. “Traditionally, Swiss Glühwein is prepared slowly, with the wine warmed gently to avoid boiling. Overheating causes the alcohol to evaporate and that alters the taste. At our Christmas markets it’s regarded as such a speciality, you’ll often find it served in specially-made festive mugs, which are becoming more and more collectible.” After an hour strolling around Geneva’s large Christmas market, we were getting chilled despite the Glühwein, so were very glad indeed that our Swiss fixer had booked us into one of the heated marquees where piping hot food was being served. By piping, I mean molten. We were, of course, sitting down to enjoy the near compulsory alpine meal of cheese fondue. A True Alpine Feast 🍖🏔️ At the Swiss Christmas markets, the dish of molten cheese and bread tends to be served at vast communal tables. The Chalet à Fondue at Noël au Quai is famous and the vast throng made for a wonderful atmosphere. I haven’t felt so Christmassy in years! And what’s not to like about Swiss fondue? Readers will know that the classic version is made of a blend of cheeses, usually Gruyère and Emmental, combined with white wine, garlic, and perhaps a tot of cornstarch to help with consistency, seasoned with a touch of nutmeg or pepper. It’s often served in a bowl made from a hollowed-out loaf and is accompanied by chunks of fresh bread, which you skewer and dip into the hot, bubbling cheese. You should also be offered sides, like small pickled silver onions and gherkins. If not, ask for some. The pickles cut through the fatty, creamy cheese wonderfully. More Swiss Christmas Delights 🍿🍩 Raclette is another quintessential dish at the Christmas markets. It not only showcases the high-quality Swiss cheese, but the serving of it is a show in itself. Raclette is both the name of the dish and the type of cheese used. It involves heating a half-wheel of raclette cheese until the cut surface is melting. The hot layer is then scraped off, often over a layer of boiled potatoes. Those who haven’t booked a place at Geneva Christmas market’s hugely popular fondue chalet have plenty of other food outlets to choose from. And there’s a large lakeside drinks area called The Christmas Pub, which will be packed. As will the collective Christmas markets 100 miles away in Bern. Seasonal crowds are guaranteed in the Swiss capital - a small but ancient city perched on a steep hill which creates a large U-shaped bend in the River Aare. Bern lends itself to Yuletide magic so much, they stage not one, but nine Christmas markets each year. There’s the Berner Sternenmarkt, right in the middle of town next to the Bundeshaus (Parliament building). This festively decorated affair has numerous chalets offering seasonal delicacies and hot beverages as well as products from local designers. My favourite was the Oscar Elch market, which takes over the Ringgenpärkli park, overlooking the river gorge. In the snow, this really is a winter wonderland. Try the hot Gløgg (Scandinavian mulled wine made from red wine, vodka, and spices) and the homemade tarte flambée – a cross between a savoury tart and a pizza. Bern Christmas Markets: A Snowy Swiss Wonderland SEE OUR POST DEDICATED TO THE CHRISTMAS MARKET AT BERN Basel: The Doyen of Christmas Markets 🎉 Last, but certainly not least, we were taken to the December doyen of all Christmas events - the mighty market at Basel, or Basle as we say in English - one of the most popular midwinter city attractions in Europe. Nearly a million people visit the central city each year specially to see the endless lights and stalls. SEE OUR POST DEDICACATED TO THE CHRISTMAS MARKET AT BASEL The festive extravaganza really does transform Basle into a winter wonderland. Streets and squares, especially around the Barfüsserplatz and Münsterplatz areas, are adorned with so many lights and festive decorations, they create an atmosphere you’ll experience in few other cities, anywhere. Around 200 beautifully prepared stalls offer everything from handmade toys and ornaments to local artisan products. The market is also a gastronomic delight, offering a vast range of sweet and savoury delights - including my own favourite, fresh roasted chestnuts. There are daily choir performances, storytelling sessions, and even a Fairy Tale Forest for the kids. 🥓💕 Johan Wanner's Extraordinary Christmas Shop in Basel Christmas is taken so seriously in this city, that Basle boasts its own specialist store which celebrates the December festivities throughout the entire year. Johan Wanner’s Christmas Shop is unique. I’ve never seen anything like it. Founded by Mr Wanner, the shop offers a vast collection of ornaments, nativity scenes, and festive decorations. It’s a kind of mad Aladdin’s Cave, with ornaments hanging from almost every inch of ceiling and shelving, and so many glittering lights and decorations it is possible, for those of a frail disposition, to experience a sensory overload. I found the place just a little bit over the top, but who am I to make such observations? A Christmas Wonderland 🎄💫 A gloomy old Englishman, that’s who. And I must be wrong because Christmas lovers flock from all around the globe to visit Johann’s shop and have their photos taken in front of its ornate windows. I was able to speak with the man himself (now in his 80s) and, as he looked around at his treasure trove, Mr Wanner told me, “This is a place where the holiday spirit is alive throughout the year - we really do offer a unique experience to all those who visit.” No arguing with that. Looking at him, and listening to those words in his crazy Christmas emporium, I thought: the world doesn’t get more Christmassy than this. Then the idea struck me that, actually, it doesn’t get much more Christmassy than the whole of Switzerland. At least, if you’re lucky enough to visit in December. ❄️💜 To find out more about the Christmas Markets of Switzerland, visit My Switzerland Christmas Markets. FAQ What are the best Christmas markets in Switzerland? Geneva, Bern and Basel all have spectacular Christmas markets, each with its own character. Basel is particularly famous for its atmospheric markets around Münsterplatz and Barfüsserplatz. Which Swiss city is best for Christmas markets? Basel, Bern and Geneva are all excellent choices. Basel is renowned for its large historic Christmas market, while Bern offers a particularly atmospheric setting in its medieval Old Town. What food can you eat at Swiss Christmas markets? Swiss Christmas markets are ideal places to try fondue, raclette, roasted chestnuts and other winter specialities, accompanied by hot Glühwein or other warming drinks. Is Switzerland worth visiting at Christmas? Yes. Switzerland combines atmospheric Christmas markets with historic towns, Alpine scenery and the possibility of snow, making it particularly appealing for a winter Christmas break. What is the Christmas market like in Basel? Basel's Christmas market spreads through parts of the historic city centre, particularly around Münsterplatz and Barfüsserplatz, with hundreds of stalls, festive lights, food and entertainment. What are the Christmas markets like in Bern? Bern has several Christmas markets set around its historic centre. Its medieval streets, covered arcades and surrounding Alpine scenery can make it especially magical when snow arrives. Planning your own mountain escape or exploring the Swiss Alps? Read my comprehensive Switzerland Travel Guide: Unspunnen, Alpine Culture, Historic Rails & Mountain Flavours for more features on scenic mountain railways, historic hotels, local festivals, and culinary heritage.

For those of us who grew up in the rural West Country decades ago, vacations were modest affairs — they often involved camping in tents or staying in caravans. These holidays were enjoyable in their own way, but certainly lacking in luxury or sophistication. Watching television programmes like the early Saint series or adaptations of Agatha Christie novels, I became aware of an entirely different world — a world of smart hotels and elegant lifestyles, far removed from the considerations of waterproof canvas or the reliability of a caravan towing hitch. A while ago I had the opportunity to experience that sophisticated world firsthand, and I found it one hundred percent enjoyable. 😎 Planning your own mountain escape or exploring the Swiss Alps? Read my comprehensive Switzerland Travel Guide: Unspunnen, Alpine Culture, Historic Rails & Mountain Flavours for more features on scenic mountain railways, historic hotels, local festivals, and culinary heritage. The Allure of the Swiss Historic Hotels 🌟 A week-long journey through the Alps, staying at establishments under the Swiss Historic Hotelsbanner, felt like stepping into La Belle Époque — a period of European history often described as the "Beautiful Era." From my arrival at the first hotel along the shores of Lake Zurich, to my final goodbye at an ancient inn in Zermatt, beneath the Matterhorn, I experienced a world that, admittedly with a hint of nostalgia, I am not accustomed to. Elegance, glamour, and old-fashioned refinement were the order of the day throughout the week. We enjoyed exquisite cuisine while travelling comfortably and efficiently across the Alps using the Swiss public transportation network, renowned for its precision and service quality. A Journey Through History and Opulence 🚀 I had been invited by colleagues from Switzerland’s tourism board to experience the offerings of Swiss Historic Hotels, an organisation that unites a collection of historically significant inns and luxury hotels. The aim is to maintain the authenticity and architectural heritage of these buildings through careful conservation practices. Staircase at Hotel Wilden Mann, Lucern In their own words: "What they share is their unrivalled experiential value. The buildings have preserved their authenticity and architectural significance — certified by experts — thanks to careful renovations and measures that align with recognised conservation standards." For me, this experience represented the epitome of a dream holiday. Although I was part of an organised trip, anyone could easily plan a similar adventure with the assistance of the Switzerland Travel Centre (international freephone 00800 100 200 30 or email info.uk@myswitzerland.com). For packages, train, and air tickets, you can also contact sales@stc.co.uk. The Swiss Travel System provides a variety of passes specifically for international visitors, offering access to transportation via rail, road, and waterways throughout the country. St Moritz has some very upmarket hotels The Romantik Seehotel Sonne: An Introduction to Elegance 🏨 My journey into La Belle Époque began just 20 minutes from Zurich Airport, at the Romantik Seehotel Sonne in Küsnacht. The weather was warm, and visitors were swimming in Lake Zurich as I relaxed with a cocktail in the hotel’s private garden overlooking the serene waters. The manager graciously shared the rich history of the establishment, a history that began 400 years ago when it became one of Switzerland's first restaurants to obtain tavern rights. The Sonne boasts a tower from the 14th century and an elegant ballroom added in 1839, both of which remain well-preserved. The hotel's guest list has included luminaries such as Thomas Mann, Franz Kafka, and Lenin. Interestingly, I stayed in what was said to be Carl Jung's preferred room - perhaps explaining the particularly vivid and intriguing dreams I had during my stay. 😴 SEE ANOTHER OF OUR SWISS FEATURES HERE Looking down on the Lucerne area from the mountains The hotel itself is a blend of historical authenticity and modern luxury. The rooms are appointed with antique furnishings, complemented by modern amenities that ensure comfort while preserving the atmosphere of a bygone era. The gardens, with their views of Lake Zurich, offer a peaceful retreat, while the restaurant serves cuisine that reflects traditional Swiss flavours with contemporary interpretations. It was the perfect start to what promised to be an extraordinary adventure. Continuing to the Hotel Terrasse at Vitznau 🏖️ The next day, we embarked on our journey — travelling by train and bus to reach the Hotel Terrasse in Vitznau, located on the picturesque shores of Lake Lucerne. Situated next to Europe's first mountain railway, which has taken passengers up Mount Rigi for 145 years, the hotel provides easy access to some of the most scenic views in Switzerland. While Mount Rigi is not among the highest peaks in the Alps, it is often considered Central Switzerland's most popular scenic mountain, standing between Lakes Lucerne, Zug, and Lauerz like a scenic peninsula. The famous wooden bridges of Lucerne The journey to the top of Mount Rigi via the historic railway revealed breathtaking vistas encompassing the Alps, 13 lakes, and the entire Swiss Mittelland extending to Germany and France. After a light lunch at Hotel Rigi Kulm on the summit, we enjoyed a leisurely downhill walk for about an hour before returning to the Hotel Terrasse. Opened in 1873, this distinguished establishment is ideally located near the boat station on Lake Lucerne. Our dinner there was unforgettable — featuring a delicious local speciality, chestnut soup. 🥜 The Hotel Terrasse is an exemplar of 19th-century opulence, with a stunning façade facing the lake and an interior adorned with high ceilings, detailed woodwork, and elaborate chandeliers. Dining on the terrace, with its panoramic view of Lake Lucerne, was particularly magical as the lights of the surrounding villages shimmered on the water. Vitznau on Lake Lucerne Exploring Lucerne and the Hotel Wilden Mann 🏛️ Our next destination was Lucerne, reached by a scenic ferry ride down Lake Lucerne. We stayed at the Hotel Wilden Mann, a historic establishment spread across seven interconnected historic houses in the old town, soon to celebrate its 500th anniversary. Lucerne is a city rich in history, with its mediaeval architecture, cobblestone streets, and famous Chapel Bridge. During our guided tour, we explored its storied streets, visited historical landmarks, and saw the Lion Monument, a poignant tribute to the Swiss Guards who died during the French Revolution. The city's heritage is palpable, and it is easy to see why Lucerne is often considered one of Switzerland's most beautiful cities. HOTEL Grimsel Hospiz After our exploration of Lucerne, we continued our journey to the , an inn with origins dating back nearly 900 years. The current building was constructed in 1932 after the original site was flooded as part of a major hydroelectric project. Today, the high-altitude Grimsel Hospiz has been meticulously restored to reflect its original 1930s design. For a special thrill, I recommend asking the staff for the underground route when arriving by public transport — it provides a cinematic, almost James Bond-like experience! 🚀🔫 The Grimsel Hospiz sits atop the Grimsel Pass, surrounded by dramatic peaks and glacial vistas. The stark yet beautiful scenery is both isolating and inspiring, transporting you far from the world of bustling cities. The hotel’s pine-clad rooms are warm and inviting, with panoramic windows offering stunning views of the alpine landscape. The cosy dining room serves hearty meals, ideal for those who have spent the day hiking or exploring the surrounding trails and visiting the hydroelectric dam. Zarmatt and the Matterhorn The Majestic Matterhorn 🏔️ The following morning, we headed to Zermatt, travelling by train and bus. Before arriving at our hotel, we took a detour to the Gornergrat peak, which stands over 10,000 feet above sea level. From the top, you can take in spectacular views of the Monte Rosa Massif, which includes the highest peak in Switzerland, as well as the sprawling Gorner Glacier, the second-largest glacier in the Alps. Towering above it all is the mighty Matterhorn. The Gornergrat railway, which began operations in 1898, took us on a scenic journey through alpine forests, over impressive bridges, and past awe-inspiring glaciers. From the summit, we were treated to sweeping vistas of snow-capped peaks, deep valleys, and even sightings of ibexes. The Matterhorn, an iconic mountain that has fascinated climbers for over a century, commanded our attention. Small lake beneath the Matterhorn After our high-altitude adventure, we descended to Zermatt’s Hotel Monte Rosa, an establishment rich in history. Located in the heart of Zermatt, the Monte Rosa was once the headquarters of Edward Whymper, the man responsible for the first successful ascent of the Matterhorn. The hotel’s heritage is palpable — every room and corridor speaks of the history of mountaineering. The Monte Rosa is not merely a hotel; it is an institution. The walls are adorned with historical photographs and memorabilia from the golden age of alpine exploration. My room overlooked Bahnhofstrasse, the bustling main street of Zermatt, with its charming chalets, upscale boutiques, and quaint cafés. In the evening, I enjoyed a meal prepared with local ingredients at the hotel’s elegant restaurant, followed by a nightcap at the historic bar, where climbers once gathered to share stories of their daring ascents. A Memorable Adventure 🥰 My time at Hotel Monte Rosa, exploring the alpine landscapes and hiking to the base of the Matterhorn, is an experience I will never forget. Although I am no longer young enough to dream of scaling that imposing mountain, the sense of satisfaction I felt returning to my historic hotel after a day of hiking in the summer heat was immeasurable. Zermatt is a car-free village, and this adds to the charm of the experience. Without the sound of engines, the streets are peaceful, and the crisp mountain air is invigorating. Strolling down Bahnhofstrasse, admiring the traditional wooden chalets and sampling local specialities like raclette and Rösti, is a quintessential part of the Zermatt experience. If you are seeking a Belle Époque adventure of your own, Swiss Historic Hotels offers a window into a world of historical elegance, timeless charm, and stunning Alpine beauty. These hotels are more than just places to stay; they are custodians of history, each with a unique narrative — from the tranquil shores of Lake Zurich to the towering heights of Gornergrat. Zurich centre with church spires and lake Whether you are an adventurer drawn to high peaks, a history enthusiast captivated by the past, or simply someone seeking a touch of old-world luxury, these hotels provide an experience unlike any other. Every destination on this journey offers something unforgettable, blending heritage with the majesty of the Swiss landscape. Ready to explore? Visit the Swiss Historic Hotels website and start planning your own extraordinary journey today! 🛈🏕️🌍 Travel writer Martin Hesp on a ferry on Lake Lucerne FAQ What are Swiss Historic Hotels? Swiss Historic Hotels are a collection of hotels in Switzerland recognised for their historic character, architecture, interiors and connection with the country's hotel heritage. They range from grand Belle Époque properties to atmospheric mountain inns. What are the best historic hotels in Switzerland? Switzerland has many remarkable historic hotels, but some of the most memorable include properties around Lake Lucerne, Zermatt and the Swiss Alps. In this article I explore several hotels that I have personally visited. Is staying in a historic hotel in Switzerland worth it? Absolutely. A historic hotel can offer something very different from a modern chain hotel. The architecture, furnishings, stories and location can become an important part of the travel experience. Where can I find historic hotels in Switzerland? Historic hotels can be found throughout Switzerland, including around Lake Zurich, Lake Lucerne, Zermatt and the Swiss Alps. Many are located in particularly scenic parts of the country. What is the best area of Switzerland for a hotel stay? That depends on what you want from your trip. Lucerne is excellent for lakes, mountains and sightseeing, Zermatt is ideal for the Alps and the Matterhorn, while Switzerland's historic mountain hotels offer a more remote experience. Can you stay in historic hotels near the Swiss Alps? Yes. Some of Switzerland's most atmospheric historic hotels are in the Alps, including properties in and around Zermatt and the high mountain passes. They make particularly memorable bases for exploring the Swiss landscape. Is Switzerland expensive for a hotel holiday? Switzerland can be expensive compared with many other European destinations, particularly in popular resorts such as Zermatt. However, there is a wide range of accommodation, and travelling outside peak periods can sometimes offer better value. Which Swiss cities are best for a first visit? Lucerne and Zurich are excellent starting points, combining historic sights, beautiful lakes and easy access to the surrounding countryside and mountains. Zermatt is another obvious choice if your priority is spectacular Alpine scenery. Planning your own mountain escape or exploring the Swiss Alps? Read my comprehensive Switzerland Travel Guide: Unspunnen, Alpine Culture, Historic Rails & Mountain Flavours for more features on scenic mountain railways, historic hotels, local festivals, and culinary heritage.

When water freezes the resultant material tends to be slippery stuff. We all know that, but perhaps what no one will ever be able to explain is why we have become so addicted to sports that allow us to slide, often perilously, over ice or snow. In the past and for most non-alpine people aged over 50, skiing was something only the very rich could do. Something so fantastically expensive and beyond the realms of possibility for most folk, that only royalty or film stars could even dream of binding long thin planks to their feet in some pricey alpine resort. And when they did, a great many came back with broken legs. All of which is a long way of saying that, until my mid-50s I’d never been skiing. Or rather, hadn’t, until when one of my friends from Swiss Tourism invited me to give it a try. “I can’t believe you’ve never skied!” she said. “But you travel on press trips all over the place – you have done years – and you are telling me you’ve never tried the world’s favourite winter sport?” I did feel rather left-out and inferior. It was no good my telling this young woman about West Country penury when I was a boy and all that nonsense – she wasn’t even born when I passed 20 and probably couldn’t conceive of a Europe where large numbers of folk could never afford to visit the mountains. Planning your own mountain escape or exploring the Swiss Alps? Read my comprehensive Switzerland Travel Guide: Unspunnen, Alpine Culture, Historic Rails & Mountain Flavours for more features on scenic mountain railways, historic hotels, local festivals, and culinary heritage. There was another factor which I had to mention to her: “I am tall and (apart from an increasing beer belly) thin. I have long thin legs which I am convinced could break easily – and, as I write about walks as part of my job, a broken leg would be a very bad career move.” She assured me modern skiing didn’t produce too many broken legs - and the next thing I knew I was swanning about in one of the best combined ski and snowboarding resorts in the world. For that is the way some ski-journalists I know describe Laax, especially when talking about the varied terrains that have been devised for snowboard enthusiasts in particular. I was to discover all this for myself during a long and extremely enjoyable (although at times arduous) weekend learning how to hurtle down mountains on board two sharp pointed planks. Where Is Laax in Switzerland? How did I get on? Well, pretty good I’d say, but in a totally uncontrolled and lucky kind of way. More of that later, but where and what is Laax? Basically it’s an area in the high mountains of the Graubunden canton in eastern Switzerland – a handy place to reach if you’ve flown in to Zurich on a regular Swiss Air flight from London City Airport. An hour’s stunning train ride past lakes and mountains, followed by half an hour in a local bus, and you are there – high up in the snow zone. The original village of Laax Dorf still exists just outside the big new and extremely busy complex at the lift-base which is surrounded by hotels and shopping and eating complexes. This is the bit that’s now known as Laax, of which the recently completed Rocksresort development is a part. Things to Do in Laax Besides Skiing There is a danger, when you visit a place as famous for skiing as Laax, of imagining that everyone spends the entire day on skis. But there is plenty to do here if, like me, you occasionally need a break from trying to stay upright on two planks. Walk Through the Snow-Covered Forests One of the simplest pleasures is to leave the ski slopes behind and walk through the snow-covered forests around Flims and Laax. There are numerous prepared winter walking and snowshoe routes, making it possible to enjoy the mountains at a much more leisurely pace. The scenery is extraordinary, particularly around the Flimserwald and the lakes and valleys beyond it. You don't necessarily need to be an experienced mountaineer: a warm coat, sensible boots and a willingness to walk in the snow can be enough. Explore the Rhine Gorge The spectacular Rhine Gorge, sometimes called the Swiss Grand Canyon, is another reason to venture beyond the ski slopes. The enormous gorge was created by the ancient Flims landslide and today provides some remarkable viewpoints and walking opportunities. For a visitor who has spent several hours concentrating on skiing, standing somewhere overlooking this extraordinary landscape is a rather good way of putting the whole trip into perspective. Go Sledging If skiing isn't quite your thing, sledging provides another way of hurtling down a snowy mountain — although, in my experience, it doesn't necessarily involve any less excitement. The Flims-Laax area has several dedicated sledging runs, including routes from Foppa to Flims and Curnius to Falera. There are even opportunities for night sledging during parts of the winter. Take a Snowshoe Walk Snowshoeing is another excellent way of exploring the mountains without skis. The Flims-Laax area has a substantial network of prepared winter walking and snowshoe trails, including routes through the spectacular landscape of the Sardona Tectonic Arena. It is a much slower way of experiencing the Alps, but that is rather the point. You get time to look around, take photographs and appreciate just how dramatic the mountains are. Simply Enjoy the Mountains And sometimes the best alternative to skiing is to do very little at all. Take a mountain railway upwards, find somewhere warm for a coffee or lunch, and simply look at the scenery. Laax sits among some spectacular Alpine landscapes, with the Vorab glacier, mountain peaks, forests and lakes providing a backdrop wherever you go. Even if you never put on a pair of skis, there is plenty here to remind you why people come to the Swiss mountains in the first place. Check out our post on Lucerne in winter here What Is Laax Like for a Beginner Skier? One of the beauties of staying here is that you are only a few steps from the big lift that takes you on a truly glorious 15 minute journey up to the high snow slopes – and my newfound ski-buddies tell me that is a very important factor when it comes to a holiday based on hurtling down mountains. The ultra-modern resort with its hip interior design and architecture built from local rock might disappoint those looking for the traditional alpine world of wooden chalets and chequered tablecloths. However, it will excite if you have an eye for well executed modern design. The Rockresort is to log cabins what Porsche is to the VW Beetle. I liked the place. I liked its modernism and its luxury. And I liked the short 50-metre walk from my hotel to the underground locker area where skiers are fitted with their gear - because it lies just beneath the main ski-lift. The gear and its fitting is a story in itself – especially for a beginner. The staff weigh and measure you, then hand out an impressive pair of modern skis. Then they torture you. By which I mean they measure the size of your feet before clamping them into the sort of boots gangsters use when they want to throw an enemy into a harbour in the hopes he will sink. If ski-boots are not made of concrete, they could be. “That’s too tight!” I cried to the guy fitting mine. “There meant to be,” he shrugged. Actually, he was wrong. So much pain was I in the next morning, that my ski-instructor – a calm and affable Englishman called Simon - told me to go back and get another pair. When I did the same fitter from the night before said: “Why have you got these? They’re a size too small.” In truth, the replacements weren’t much better. If I have one negative thing to say about skiing it is that the tight clamp-on boots are so painful they can spoil the whole thing. I suspect that I was either badly advised, or had on the wrong type of thick socks. At any rate, I still had a ring of black bruises around my upper ankle areas two weeks after I left Switzerland – which skiing friends say should not have happened. Anyway, upwards and onwards to the slopes… Learning to Ski at Laax On our first morning there was a blizzard – not that this mattered at all because we were all kitted-up and concentrating hard. I was with a group of other journalists – all in their 20s, and most of them had never skied before either. So I was oldest by a quarter of a century – and I was also the only one who never fell over, which is a fact I wear with pride. For us greenhorns, Simon set in motion a basic “ski-lift”, which really was nothing more than a loop of thick soft rope running around a winch. By grabbing the rope at the bottom of the nursery-slope you could, if you were strong enough (and it took a lot of strength) be towed some 300 metres uphill. Within three hours we were all more or less getting down this slope – in fact I was flying down it – a fact which impressed Simon because I was able to turn and stay upright. “You are a natural,” he beamed. I protested and told him the truth: “I haven’t got the faintest idea what I’m doing. I’m just belting down because that’s what the skis are making me do – and I’m staying upright because I’m too scared to fall off.” He waved this aside. But it was the truth. I was hopeless at stopping effectively and, if anyone had cut in front of me, I would not have been able to avoid them. Long graceful turns at speed, I could do – tight fast turns, I most certainly could not. Anyway, the ever cheerful Simon beamed and encouraged. So I did a lot of vaguely controlled hurtling. And so it went on all weekend. I will admit that I am none the wiser now on even basic points of skiing let alone more advanced stuff, than I was after that first hour. But, by some miracle – more by accident (if I dare use that word) than design – I did not once come to grief. Teaching an older person to ski in a weekend was always going to be a tall order – but I’ll say this: I left feeling certain that if I’d spent four or five days up there I would have cracked it. Unless those damned boots had cracked me first. Because of them, it was a relief to stop skiing. And then, realising the blizzard had been replaced by bright sunshine, I literally yelped for joy. Being high up in snow-covered mountains in sunshine is one of the greatest treats known to man. It is stunning. Sensational. I spent the rest of the day belting about on the various ski-lifts so that I could take as many photographs as I could. They might not be good compared to mountain landscapes taken by others, but the photographs I took are among my best shots in 30 years of travel journalism. And my photographic wanderings weren’t over on the first day – 24 hours later a small group of us went on an eight mile walk through snowbound forests on the other side of the village, and it was a truly magical, uplifting experience. Hardly anyone else was out in the silent woods – and eventually we came to a viewing platform dangling, quite literally, over a 1000 abyss. Deep below the young Rhine was doing what it has been doing for the past 10,000 years – cutting itself a gorge to pass through what is said to be the remains of Europe’s biggest ever landslide. Indeed, the whole of the Laax-Flims snow-zone is there partly thanks to this massive prehistoric parting of mountain – and the higgledy-piggledy forest we’d just walked through was the most obvious evidence that this entire valley was once a mass of debris. Walking through snow is tiring – and it was some relief that we regained the excellent Hotel Signina at Laax to enjoy a Turkish bath and a swim. And here’s another non-skiing highlight - if I had a favourite moment up there in the mountains it was dining high up in the pine forests above the resort, eating endless amounts of molten cheese washed down by equally large quantities of excellent Swiss wine. And here’s the magic moment – we were each handed a toboggan so that we could each sledge the main piste’s final mile or two in the moonlight. Talk about hurtling… I loved every crazy exhilarating minute of it. And when I looked back up at the steep drop we’d just sledged down the thought did strike me that perhaps old journalists prefer to do their hurtling sitting down. FACT FILE There are regular return flights daily with Swiss Air from London to Zurich. Martin stayed at Signina Hotel, Laax: www.signinahotel.com For further information, visit www.graubuenden.ch Frequently Asked Questions About Learning to Ski at Laax Is Laax a good place to learn to ski? Yes. Laax is a major winter sports resort in the Swiss Alps with facilities for beginners as well as experienced skiers and snowboarders. Martin Hesp visited Laax as a complete beginner and found that he was able to make surprisingly rapid progress during his first weekend. Where is Laax? Laax is in the canton of Graubünden in eastern Switzerland. The resort lies in the high mountains and is part of the wider Flims Laax Falera winter sports area. Is Laax suitable for beginner skiers? Laax offers terrain for different levels of skiing ability, including nursery slopes and beginner areas. For someone trying skiing for the first time, professional instruction and suitable equipment are essential. How long does it take to learn to ski? Everyone learns at a different pace, but a beginner can make noticeable progress after a few days of lessons. During his first weekend at Laax, Martin found that he could turn and remain upright after only a few hours, although stopping and controlling his speed remained a challenge. What is Laax famous for? Laax is particularly famous for skiing and snowboarding and has a strong reputation among winter sports enthusiasts. The resort is also known for its modern architecture, extensive mountain terrain and spectacular Alpine scenery. Can you visit Laax without skiing? Absolutely. Laax and the surrounding mountains offer plenty for non-skiers, including snowshoeing and winter walking, mountain scenery, restaurants, spas, swimming and sledging. Martin particularly enjoyed walking through snow-covered forests and sledging down the mountain at night. What is there to do in Laax in winter besides skiing? Winter visitors can explore the surrounding forests, enjoy mountain restaurants, relax in hotel spas, take photographs from the ski lifts and go sledging. The dramatic Rhine gorge and the landscape created by the ancient Flims landslide are also important features of the area. Is Laax good for a ski holiday? Laax is well suited to a ski holiday because accommodation, lifts, equipment facilities and restaurants are concentrated around the resort. The proximity of hotels to the main lift can make a significant difference when carrying ski equipment. What is the Flims-Laax area famous for? The Flims-Laax area is known for its dramatic Alpine landscape and the enormous prehistoric landslide that helped shape the valley. The Rhine subsequently cut its way through the resulting landscape, creating a spectacular gorge. Is Laax only suitable for experienced skiers and snowboarders? No. Although Laax has a strong reputation among experienced skiers and snowboarders, beginners can also learn there. The resort has beginner facilities and ski instruction, making it possible to start from scratch while gradually progressing to more challenging terrain.

As midwinter brings yet more damp dark wet weather to the UK, it is tempting to recall wonderful trips to Switzerland and the mountains at this time of year. The often crisp cold sunny weather in the Alps comes as a surprise and a sensation for we poor rained-upon Brits. Just before Covid struck, I visited the beautiful Swiss city of Lucerne during the depths of winter. Lucerne is lovely by day - but for a few January nights it is transformed by a number of spectacular light installations dotted around the old town and lake-side areas. Called the Lilu Festival of Lights, it featured an array of both Swiss and international artists showcasing illumination in all its fascinating facets. Every evening during the festival you could walk through the city between 6pm and 10pm and be enthralled by the luminous artworks. Planning your own mountain escape or exploring the Swiss Alps? Read my comprehensive Switzerland Travel Guide: Unspunnen, Alpine Culture, Historic Rails & Mountain Flavours for more features on scenic mountain railways, historic hotels, local festivals, and culinary heritage. The most gobsmacking of all the illuminations was to be found in one of Lucerne’s massive old churches where a truly spectacular light-show - beamed across the giant vaulted roof - was accompanied by the most amazing music and sounds. The 25-minute show made you feel as though you knew what time-travel could mean. CHECK OUR POST ON THE the Lilu Festival of Lights One of the famous wooden bridges which crosses the river in Lucerne I have been fortunate enough to visit Lucerne many times, but never before have I seen the historic city like this. It was thrilling and thought provoking - which is why I can imagine that many larger towns and cities might soon be staging such events in the future. But enjoying the light festival was only one of my winter treats in this special area. Based for a few nights at the majestic and altogether wonderful Hotel Schweizerhof, located right on the lakeside close to the city-centre, I was able to soak up the best Lucerne has to offer, like the riverside market in the January sunshine and a memorable lunch at the Hotel Wilden Mann, which is one of the oldest hostelries in the region. The Hotel Schweizerhof, by the way, is a grand and classy establishment that has the vibe of being reminiscent of a bygone and more elegant age. Think grand ballrooms and grand pianos in the lounge. They serve excellent food too - which they also do at the Wilden Mann where I’ve had lunch several times before. Both do classic Swiss cuisine - which is no bad thing, especially when it comes to exceptional soups and salads. I’ll tell you somewhere else that does good food in the area - or rather, 7000 feet above the city centre. And it brings me to the second part of my short city-break. A hole in the cliff at the top of Mount Pilatus allows you to look down on Lake Lucerne If you travel just five minutes by bus from the city centre to the southern edge of Lucerne you can alight at a stop which is just a short walk to the cable car that will take you up Mount Pilatus. What you are about to enjoy is one of the best cable car journeys in the Alps - and I say that because the views all the way up are among the most amazing in all of Europe. That is because 7000 foot high Mount Pilatus stands alone, unlike most mountains in the Alps which are, of course, connected to other surrounding peaks. We’re at the northern edge of the main massif of mountains here, so everything north and west is located far lower down on an undulating plain that descends eventually to Zurich and the German border. Directly beneath the mountain, there’s Lucerne and its beautiful lake. Then, once you’ve reached the summit on the exhilarating cable car ride, you can look south and see a massive panorama of alpine peaks stretching east to west. This is made all the more dramatic because every side of Mount Pilatus drops away steeply. Far too steep for any skiing. So there you are, right up there close to the heavens with nothing but fresh mountain air in every direction. A fact which makes it all the more amazing that there’s not one, but two hotels up here. I stayed one night at the cosy Mount Pilaus Kulm and enjoyed every minute of it. Not only did my the window of my warm and snug bedroom (just as well it was snug given it was minus 20 degrees outside) give me truly splendid mountain views, but I was also treated to a massive and delicious seven course meal up there halfway to heaven. And, talking about heaven, I also managed to visit to one of my favourite villages in the world while on the brief January trip. Vitznau is located at what seems to be the far eastern end of the lake opposite Lucerne - and it’s a truly wonderful ferry ride that will take you here. Especially if you have booked a three course lunch aboard one of the ferries that plies the lake 365 days of the year. Indeed, if you were really pressed for time while visiting the city and you wanted to do just one thing, I would suggest catching a ferry to Vitznau. Lunch on board or no lunch - the surprisingly upmarket meal is just a bonus. The real deal is travelling slowly and gracefully through some of the most beautiful mountain scenery in Europe. You call at Weggis for one thing - where Mark Twain lived for a short while, claiming it was the most beautiful village in the world. But Weggis doesn’t have the incredible Mount Riga railway and Vitznau does. That alone - and the opportunity to trundle all the way to the top of another stand-alone mountain views - gets the village my vote. Travel writer Martin Hesp on the way back from Vitznau, Lake Lucerne The Lucerne area is a winter-wonderland of a place in January when the Lilu Festival of Lights is on, but it’s just as fabulous at any time of year in my opinion. Switzerland - the Alpine region, indeed - at its best… Planning your own mountain escape or exploring the Swiss Alps? Read my comprehensive Switzerland Travel Guide: Unspunnen, Alpine Culture, Historic Rails & Mountain Flavours for more features on scenic mountain railways, historic hotels, local festivals, and culinary heritage. Frequently Asked Questions About Lucerne and the Swiss Mountains Is Lucerne worth visiting in winter? Yes. Lucerne is particularly atmospheric in winter, when the surrounding mountains can be covered in snow and the city remains lively with its historic centre, lake, restaurants and cultural events. January can also bring the Lilu Festival of Lights, when illuminated artworks appear around the old town and lakeside. What is there to do in Lucerne in winter? Winter visitors can explore Lucerne's historic centre and lakeside, enjoy its restaurants and markets, take boat trips on Lake Lucerne and travel into the surrounding mountains. Mount Pilatus, Vitznau and Weggis are among the places that can be reached from the city. What is Mount Pilatus famous for? Mount Pilatus is one of the most dramatic mountains overlooking Lucerne. Its summit rises to around 2,132 metres and its steep sides provide spectacular views across Lake Lucerne and the surrounding Swiss Alps. Can you visit Mount Pilatus from Lucerne? Yes. Mount Pilatus is easily accessible from Lucerne, with transport connections taking visitors towards the mountain and its cable car. The journey provides spectacular views as the mountain rises above the city and Lake Lucerne. What is Lake Lucerne like? Lake Lucerne is one of Switzerland's most beautiful lakes, surrounded by mountains and historic lakeside settlements. Boat trips provide an especially enjoyable way to experience the scenery, with services connecting Lucerne with places including Vitznau and Weggis. Is Vitznau worth visiting? Vitznau is a beautiful village on the shores of Lake Lucerne and makes an excellent excursion from Lucerne. It is also the starting point for the famous Rigi railway, which climbs into the mountains above the lake. Can you take a boat from Lucerne to Vitznau? Yes. Regular boat services connect Lucerne with destinations around Lake Lucerne, including Vitznau. The journey itself is one of the great attractions, offering a slow and scenic way to experience the mountains and lake. What is Weggis famous for? Weggis is a picturesque lakeside village on Lake Lucerne. It is also associated with the American writer Mark Twain, who spent time there and famously described the area in highly complimentary terms. What is the Lilu Festival of Lights? The Lilu Festival of Lights is a winter event in Lucerne featuring spectacular light installations around the city's historic centre and lakeside. The festival transforms parts of Lucerne after dark and adds another attraction to a winter visit. Is Lucerne a good base for exploring the Swiss mountains? Yes. Lucerne is particularly well placed for exploring the mountains and lakes of central Switzerland. From the city, visitors can combine urban sightseeing with trips to places such as Mount Pilatus, Vitznau, Weggis and the wider Lake Lucerne region.

On a few very lucky occasions I have visited St Moritz in the Engadine region of eastern Switzerland, and found myself thinking how fortunate the very rich are to be able to visit such a place on a regular basis. Actually, my interest lay in discovering the many natural attributes of the magical Inn Valley – and I did that both by train, by funicular railway, by cable-car and on foot. There’s a name game which goes on when it comes to some places on the map – a location will become famous for something, and after that any other attributes the area may have will forever be overshadowed by the one well known fact – even if that fact casts an inaccurate version of the bigger picture. In the West Country, for example, we have Minehead which has for decades been tagged with its giant Butlin holiday camp, despite the reality that the seaside town has a backdrop of some of the best hill scenery in the region. On the other end of the social scale there is St Moritz – a place synonymous with high altitude wealth and glitz. And yet, just like Minehead, the extremely posh Swiss winter-sports town is surrounded by something it should be more famous for than its glamour – by which I mean stunning scenery of the mountainous kind. I’d go as far as to say that the Higher Engadine – the amazing alpine valley where St Moritz is located – is one of the most beautiful places in all of mainland Europe. Certainly, I enjoyed my best walk of last year in the vast beautiful ravine that is cut by the young River Inn. Travelling to the Engadine region from Chur aboard the Bernina Express Planning your own mountain escape or exploring the Swiss Alps? Read my comprehensive Switzerland Travel Guide: Unspunnen, Alpine Culture, Historic Rails & Mountain Flavours for more features on scenic mountain railways, historic hotels, local festivals, and culinary heritage. Leave St Moritz and within few minutes of you will find yourself far away from Ferraris, Russian oligarchs, ridiculously pricey designer labels and dripping jewellery. Most of the Engadine is filled with alpine countryside that has not changed much in a century. One of the lovely lakes in the Engadine area The 1864 Wager: How Johannes Badrutt Invented Swiss Winter Tourism In fact, some hamlets up on the slopes away from the ski-pistes haven’t changed a jot since 1864. That’s when Johannes Badrutt made a wager with four British summer guests – and it was this one bet that would change St Moritz and take it down the expensive-exclusive road. Badrutt had built the resort’s first large hotel, primarily for summer guests who liked to come to the high mountains for the scenery and the clean fresh air. Not surprisingly he wanted his investment better used – which is why he suggested to the four wealthy Brits that they should return in winter. If the clear crisp snowy scenes were not to their liking, Badrutt said he’d underwrite every penny of their return trip from London. If, however, they fell in love with the winter wonderland, he’d invite them to stay as his guests for as long as they wished. Walking in the Engadine It was an effective ploy. They adored the place – and why not? Apart from being stunningly beautiful, the area enjoys sunshine more than 300 days a year. The wealthy Brits had the time of their lives and went back home singing St Moritz’s wintry praises from London’s dark dank rooftops. The rest is winter-sport history. The first European Ice-Skating Championships were held at St. Moritz in 1882, the first bob run in 1890 and the first ski school in Switzerland was established here in 1929. St Moritz has even played host to the Winter Olympics. But I didn’t go there for winter sports, which is when the whole glitzy ski-world in this remote part of south east Switzerland goes crazy in a spiral of soaring prices. My interest lay in discovering the many natural attributes of this magical valley – and I did that both by train, by funicular railway, by cable-car and on foot. Riding the Bernina Express: UNESCO World Heritage Railway to St Moritz Let’s start with that train, not only because it’s the easiest way to get there if you’re visiting from Britain – but because the railway that takes you up to the Higher Engadine is one of the most spectacular on the planet. That’s no exaggeration. The line up from the town of Chur - way, way, down in another valley system - is one of the only railways to have been granted World Heritage Site status. And just about every inch of it deserves the accolade. Basically the famous Bernina Express connects Chur with Poschiavo and Tirano in Northern Italy by crossing an extremely tall range of mountains. The entire trip is a four hour journey that crosses 196 bridges and passes through 55 tunnels. Its highest point is the Bernina Pass at an altitude of 2,253 metres. Originally known as the Albula line, it was constructed between 1898 and 1904, and has been operated by the Rhaetian Railway ever since. After it reaches the Albula River and crosses the Landwasser Viaduct the train must start ascending at a rate which doesn’t come easily for extremely heavy machinery on steel rails. What this means is spirals – and, in rail terms, spirals mean only the finest Swiss engineering need apply… The way in which the line corkscrews up through tunnels inside mountains only to come out in to the daylight and leap across impossibly deep gorges via elegant stone viaducts is one of the finest examples of mankind overcoming natural barriers that I’ve ever seen. Eventually this insane but thrilling railway emerges from a particularly long tunnel out onto the Engadine plain where it turns upstream to head for St. Moritz station (at 1,775 metres in altitude). Alpine towns don’t tend to win too many architectural prizes and this famous mountain resort is, to be honest, no exception to the rule. Many of the buildings are modern and one imagines more thought has gone in to their heating systems than their elegance – but, nevertheless, St Moritz has its own charms. Chief of these is the large lake which steams gently in the sunshine below the town’s steep concrete acres. You can imagine all the skating fun and games that went on across the lake during the Winter Olympics of 1928 – but when I was there it had yet to freeze over - and next time I go it will also be water rather than ice. Because what I like about the Engadine is the fantastic opportunities it has for high alpine hiking – which, needless to say, is best done in spring, summer or early autumn. But more about that later – first we had to check-in at the excellent Hotel Steffani which is situated in the centre of town. This is a comfortable alpine billet if ever there was one, and we made plenty of use of its warm indoor swimming pool and sauna after our long journey. High-Altitude Dining at Alp Grüm & Ascending the Diavolezza Cable Car Ironically, our first duty next day was to climb back aboard the train and head upwards once again – this time up to Alp Grüm, on the Swiss-Italian border. If we thought the previous day’s section of the Bernina Express had surpassed all other railways by getting us up to St Moritz, we were wrong… The winding, grinding, trundling ascent over one of Europe’s highest watersheds is breathtaking – and even in autumn before the ski season had begun in earnest we were treated to frozen, white, crystalline panoramas up there at high altitude. In this high cold zone it was most comforting indeed to learn we’d be lunching at an old fashioned rail-side stopping place called Ristorante Alp Grüm. I liked the place immensely, not only because of its stunning views, nor solely for its welcoming, old-fashioned atmosphere which harked back to spy-movies of yesteryear – but because I enjoyed a huge plate of Pizzoccheri. This is a local speciality involving vegetables and cheese bought from nearby mountain farms – all tossed hot with a dense, nutty, dark coloured pasta made from buckwheat. The food was simple and wonderful – but once your high altitude hunger has abated, it’s those views and the mountains that make the long trip all the way from the West Country worth the while – even if you’re only there for a weekend like we were. I vow to return and stay in the restaurant’s small homely hotel so that I can go off walking among these high and dramatic peaks. Having lunch at Alp Grüm Indeed, despite the first snowfall of the year, I was to enjoy at least a brief closer glimpse of the neighbouring mountains… Our next stop was back down the line towards St Moritz to a place where we took a large cable car (capable of carrying 100 passengers) up to the Diavolezza. The name means She-Devil in the local Italian - and I can only assume this refers to the height of the peaks and the all too apparent dangers that could overtake the unwary traveller in such a vertiginous place. The cable car ascends to the middle of a great white cup in the mountains and terminates at a large modern restaurant which is the first in this region to open to skiers each year. We were there on the very first day of the season and for a country hick like me it was amazing to see all the glamorous young things peeling off their thick ski apparel to sunbathe in deckchairs which they’d placed in deep snow. The icy white blanket at their feet was not only used for skiing, but as a natural cold store for their bottles of champagne. A Funicular Ride to Remember: Dining at Muottas Muragl By the time we’d done all this high altitude clambering around I was more than ready for dinner at the Romantik Hotel – and very romantic it was too, in a high altitude kind of way. To be honest, going up to dine at the Restaurant Muottas Muragl is just about as glamorous as things can get for a chap who’s spent his life being a bumpkin in the Westcountry hills. It’s the sort of place James Bond might go to dine with some beautiful woman. Indeed, I was escorted by a beautiful woman from the local tourist board – but it was the sheer experience of getting up there that gives the place its unique sense of romance. To reach this unique restaurant and hotel you must climb aboard the establishment’s own funicular railway, deep down in the Engadine valley. As a person who regularly rides on our own dramatic funicular at Lynmouth, I thought the upward journey may fail to tick too many thrill boxes – but to compare the two funiculars would be like bracketing a Euro-fighter next to a Sopwith Camel. This one climbs the best part of 2000 very steep metres and the view as you go surpasses any ride to any restaurant in Europe. Look at internet guides which refer to the place and you will find comments like: “This must be the most panoramic restaurant in the world,” and so on. I wouldn’t disagree with any of them. Walking the Engadine Lakes: A 14-Mile Autumn Hike from Maloja to St Moritz For the final day of our weekend we went west of St Moritz with our excellent guide Wolfgang on a local bus to the village of Maloja Posta – which is about 10 miles and two lakes away. If you go by road, that is – it’s a lot further if you take the high alpine tracks back… And we did walk back to town, first via mountain tracks high above a lake called the Silsersee - then down through the village of Sils Maria where we had lunch so we could walk along the waterside of the Lej da Champfèr to eventually catch a homeward bus the last couple of miles to St Moritz. It was, as I say, the best walk I took in 2012. We strolled about 14 miles in warm sunshine, amid scenery that was so beautiful it almost made our eyes ache. I cannot exaggerate this – if you like a mix of mountains, forests, rocky ancient alpine villages and lakes, this is paradise. It certainly set us up for a last dinner at the Hotel Steffani which specialises in good honest local food – and a ruinously pricey boozing session in some of St Moritz’s busier bars. But even as we caroused our way through the watering holes in the company of newly made local friends, we seemed to avoid the rarefied and more glitzy arenas for which the town is world famous. Proving to me that travelling really can be a name-game – the trick is to find the real story of a location – the one for which it is not renowned. In the case of St Moritz, that manifests itself in the sheer beauty of its surrounding countryside. Planning your own mountain escape or exploring the Swiss Alps? Read my comprehensive Switzerland Travel Guide: Unspunnen, Alpine Culture, Historic Rails & Mountain Flavours for more features on scenic mountain railways, historic hotels, local festivals, and culinary heritage. Frequently Asked Questions About St Moritz and the Engadine What is St Moritz famous for? St Moritz is famous for its spectacular Alpine setting, luxury hotels, winter sports and long association with wealthy international visitors. It is also known for major sporting milestones, having hosted the Winter Olympics in 1928 and 1948. Where is St Moritz? St Moritz is in the Engadine valley of eastern Switzerland, in the canton of Graubünden. The town sits beside Lake St Moritz and is surrounded by the high mountains of the Swiss Alps. Why did St Moritz become a winter resort? St Moritz became famous as a winter resort after hotelier Johannes Badrutt persuaded four British summer visitors to return in winter in 1864. He offered to pay their journey home if they did not enjoy the snowy Engadine. They loved it, helping establish St Moritz as an international winter destination. Is St Moritz worth visiting in summer? Yes. Although St Moritz is internationally famous for winter sports, the Engadine is also an exceptional summer destination, with mountain walking, scenic railways, cable cars, lakes and spectacular Alpine scenery. The original St Moritz tourism story actually began with summer visitors seeking mountain air and scenery. How many days of sunshine does St Moritz get? St Moritz and the Engadine are renowned for their exceptionally sunny climate, with the region often described as enjoying more than 300 days of sunshine a year. What winter sports is St Moritz famous for? St Moritz has a long history of winter sports. It hosted the Winter Olympics twice and was home to early milestones including the first European Ice-Skating Championships, the world's oldest natural ice bobsleigh track and Switzerland's first ski school. What is the Engadine? The Engadine is a high Alpine valley in southeastern Switzerland, centred around the River Inn. St Moritz is one of its best-known resorts, but the wider valley contains numerous villages, lakes and mountain landscapes that can be explored by train, cable car and on foot. What is the White Turf in St Moritz? White Turf is a famous horse-racing event held on the frozen Lake St Moritz during winter. It combines horse racing with the distinctive atmosphere of the Engadine's winter landscape and has become one of the resort's best-known traditions. Which famous writers and artists have been inspired by St Moritz and the Engadine? The Engadine has attracted numerous writers and artists. The philosopher Friedrich Nietzsche was particularly associated with the region and spent seven summers there, finding inspiration in its mountain landscape and atmosphere. Is St Moritz only for luxury travellers? St Moritz has an unmistakably luxurious reputation, with high-end hotels, restaurants and shops, but the wider Engadine is also about extraordinary natural scenery, walking, mountain railways, lakes and traditional villages. For many visitors, the landscape itself is the principal attraction.

In 2017 I was fortunate to be invited by Swiss Tourism on a trip up to Andermatt high in the Alps. It’s a hell of a rail journey up there…. Fascinated by scenic rail journeys or planning your next alpine escape? Discover my comprehensive Switzerland Travel Guide: Unspunnen, Alpine Culture, Historic Rails & Mountain Flavours for more features on legendary mountain railways, historic hotels, local festivals, and culinary heritage. The line up to Andermatt from Goschenen runs up a tight narrow rocky gorge. I Later walked down some of its length to take these photos… Planning your own mountain escape or exploring the Swiss Alps? Read my comprehensive Switzerland Travel Guide: Unspunnen, Alpine Culture, Historic Rails & Mountain Flavours for more features on scenic mountain railways, historic hotels, local festivals, and culinary heritage. I was joined on the press trip by Briony Key, Chris Page, Bryn Layton, the inimitable Rupert Parker and Harry White (Switzerland Tourism) - and we stayed at the cosy Hotel Schlüssel up in the high town at the top of the rail-head. What I remember is that after that walk down the gorge we went back up to town where we ate marmot meat in one of the restaurants. It was fantastic - a bit rich but wonderful on a cold day. And it was one of the only restaurants in the whole of Europe that serves the meat. Somewhere I have an article I wrote all about it - and I’ll try to find it to add to this post. I’ll also put up a post recalling an adventure we had to the high alps to stay in a mountain hut were we were snowed in by a blizzard - and where I learned to make some Swiss specialities in the little mountain restaurant kitchen.