Magic of Muscat

Set between mountains and sea, Muscat is one of the Middle East’s most quietly captivating capitals. There are no glass skyscrapers here — just whitewashed buildings, historic forts and a sense that Oman has chosen to do things its own way.

No wonder they weren’t gathering in the squares of Muscat to overthrow the government during the Arabic Spring. So that’s the background and why I say you can go there and travel freely and safely in this wonderful country.

Most journeys to Oman begin in the capital Muscat, which is where the modern international airport is and also where the government stages a huge annual event. The Muscat Festival attracts over 1.2 million visitors – and one year I was among them.

I enjoyed my day and night out there. At the festival’s heritage and cultural village just about every Omani tradition ever invented is on display and you can watch artisans plying age-old skills as well as visit a working souk, where you can buy woven baskets, pottery and silver and so on.

To be honest, though, all this is better done in the city or in the market towns of the deserts and mountains. 

The Architectural Grandeur of the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque

Muscat’s own ancient souk is a particularly wonderful location in which to duck and dive – a great myriad of a place down by the old harbour where the thoroughfares and byways are covered to protect them from the relentless sun. 

The result is that the dark alleys and brightly lit shops and stalls take on a thrilling appeal of their own, and meandering around is relatively hustle-free compared with souks in other Middle Eastern cities I’ve visited. 

Wandering Through the Scented Aisles of Muttrah Souk

Muscat dates from the first century AD when its harbour won a name for itself as one of the main exporters of frankincense to Greece and Rome. You can still buy excellent frankincense there today - I regularly use the stuff on my wood burning stove at home to give the house an oriental aroma. 

Many centuries later the Portuguese heard about the wealth of this region and in 1507 gained control of Muscat. A century and a half later they were thrown out by local Imam - and so the ding-dong power struggle went on. You can still see old castles and turrets perched all around the ancient part of the city, so that you are left in no doubt that this was a place which required much defending down the years. 

Maritime Heritage along the Corniche and Beyond

Indeed, a pleasure boat ride along Muscat’s mountainous coast just to the south of the city is a must. I was staying up the coast some 40 miles north of Muscat at the Millennium Resort, Mussanah - a luxury hotel with its own apartment complexes and harbour. It was built just a couple of years ago to play host to a massive international sailing competition and the place still acts as a hub for serious water-sports activities now.  

But the Millenium Resort is also a first class hotel where the food and service is as good as anything I’ve experienced in the region before - although it has to be said that the flat coastal plain on which it is situated is far from lovely.  

Frequently Asked Questions About Visiting Muscat

What makes Muscat different from other cities in the Gulf?

Unlike neighboring regional capitals that have embraced ultra-modern glass skyscrapers, Muscat strictly preserves its historic identity. By law, modern buildings must feature traditional architectural elements, such as domes or arabesque windows, and cannot exceed a specific height. This maintains a beautiful, low-rise skyline that blends seamlessly into the surrounding mountains.

Can non-Muslims visit the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque?

Yes. The Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque welcomes non-Muslim visitors every morning from Saturday to Thursday (typically between 8:00 am and 11:00 am). Visitors must dress respectfully, ensuring that shoulders and knees are covered. Women are also required to fully cover their hair with a scarf before entering the prayer halls.

What are the must-buy traditional items in Muttrah Souk?

Muttrah Souk is famous for its authentic Omani goods. The most popular items to purchase include high-quality frankincense resin and specialized burners, traditional Omani silver jewellery, beautifully embroidered kuma (traditional men's caps), and authentic Omani halwa—a sweet, gelatinous delicacy flavoured with saffron, rosewater, and cardamom.