There are things in life that just don’t change. They are permanent fixtures. You expect them to be there and, when you turn up, you’re somehow comforted to find they’re doing what they’ve always done. It could be anything, from a local hilltop with a memorable view to a favourite pub - but in this particular case I want to talk about a grand old hospitality establishment. The Castle Hotel, Taunton Whenever I think of Taunton’s Castle Hotel, set in the heart of Somerset’s county town, my mind goes back to the black-and-white world as seen in classic British movies such as Brief Encounters. This is an establishment with class. It’s got a natural easy style, and has more history than you could shake a jousting lance at. Nothing could be more quintessentially English. The Gateway to the West Country If a foreign acquaintance - say an American - was coming to visit and said they wanted to stay somewhere that had more Englishness about it than almost anywhere else, I’d recommend the Castle Hotel. Not only because of the classy old establishment itself, but because of its setting. As a county town, Taunton is wonderfully located, with two of Britain earliest Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty on either side and the enigmatic Somerset Levels stretching forth to the east, as well as Exmoor National Park rising in the west. And in summer, he or she could take the five minute stroll to the County Cricket Ground to watch that most English of sports. I mention this because I once interviewed the cricket commentator Henry Blofeld in the comfortable interior of the Castle Hotel, and somehow you just don’t get more English than Blowers. Martin Hesp interviews cricket commentator Henry Blofeld at The Castle some years ago The Chapman Legacy: 75 Years of Tradition And there’s another quintessential Englishman you’re almost bound to meet at the Castle Hotel - its proprietor, Kit Chapman. He will tell you, with immense pride, how the award-winning establishment has been owned by his family for the past three-quarters of a century. It has been Somerset’s leading flagship hostelry for many centuries, but the Chapman years have given the place the big name and style while continuing the kind of tradition which is becoming ever more rare when you think about modern ideas of pedigree and heritage. The charming and erudite Kit was brought up in the hotel as a boy, back in the days when his parents lived in-house and controlled absolutely everything with a micromanagement eye to detail. Which puts him beyond the age when most people would be hanging up their spurs, but as he told me: “No innkeeper can ever be retired - they have to be taken out in a box, horizontally… Because that’s the game we’re in.” A New Generation at the Helm Actually, his son Nick has taken over the day-to-day management as CEO, but that doesn’t stop Kit from popping in on a continuous basis to oversee the many various and intricate proceedings that come with running a major hotel. The Chapman family, CEO Nick on the left with wife Annabel, Kit on the right with wife Louise And. Of course, overseeing that standards are upheld. If you meet Mr Chapman Senior, you are left in no doubt that he is a man who lives up to, and expects, the very highest of standards. And why not? A classy hotel instantly loses its reason-for-being if those high standards drop. There are all too many cut-price alternatives run by giant corporations, if all you want is a bed to sleep in and some rudimentary hospitality. Here’s Kit talking about the essence of the Castle Hotel’s ethos… “In this hotel, it is all very personal—and deliberately so. We like to look after people and show them a good time. That is what it’s about. That is what hospitality is about: good food, a comfortable night’s sleep, and all the rest of it. “I keep telling the staff this… We’re in the happiness business. That’s what we want to do. We want people to leave this place a little bit happier than when they first arrived.” Navigating the Modern Hospitality Landscape Indeed, I found myself feeling happier after spending a couple of hours with Kit and Nick one day last week. I could have come away feeling a little depressed because the pair are having something of a hard time in these days when the government seems hellbent on slamming a wrecking ball through the UK’s hospitality industry. There are multiple other factors that have come along to erode the business of a grand old hotel in a county town. For centuries it would have been obvious why such a place needed to exist. A county town was the central human hub for a large area, and there would have been all manner of commercial, administrative and other reasons why folk would want to visit. But now a county town is much like any other urban centre - plus it has all those cut-price places offering a bed for the night. As for the leisure side of the equation, it’s the country-house style establishments that are seeing more business nowadays as people want to escape the fumes and noise of their cities. Reinvention and Custodianship However, a place like The Castle does have a USP - and it is a rich and worthy Unique Selling Proposition. And both Kit and Nick are determined to maintain it, as well as reshape and reinvent it for the modern world. Sea bass dish at The Castle As the third generation at the helm, Nick views his role as one of “custodianship”. While acknowledging the harsh economic climate, his focus is on a strategic “reinvention” of the business. It involves an investment in the hotel’s physical fabric - modernising 44 bedrooms and revitalising the events spaces - while leaning into the site’s unique 800-year Norman history. With a new team leading the Brazz brasserie and a clear eye on the future 100-year family milestone, Nick says he is positioning The Castle to bridge the gap between “old-fashioned” hospitality and the expectations of the modern traveller. My crab cake starter at Brazz “We need to build on that history, build on the tradition, build on the values... Old-fashioned, top-quality hospitality and excellent food - and we do have an edge when it comes to our heritage. “It is pretty cool, isn’t it?” Smiled Nick. “I mean, a Norman castle with 800 years or more of heritage. That is real history.” The Castle Hotel back in 1963 A Sense of Permanence I enjoyed a delicious lunch with father and son at Brazz, which nowadays acts as the hotel’s main restaurant (some fabulous fishcakes as a starter followed by confit duck leg, should you ask - and all on a special lunch menu priced at not much over £20) - but what I really enjoyed most was listening to Kit’s many anecdotes, some of which we repeat below in the Castle Tales panel. Brazz at The Castle Hotel Also, the visit was special for me because of the reason’s laid out at the beginning of this article. Some places are permanent fixtures. You expect them just to be there and, when you turn up, to find that they’re doing what they’ve always done. When I was a child growing up in Somerset, we’d regularly visit Taunton and I’d always feel a sense of awe when it came to the grand Castle Hotel. We never had the funds to enter its hallowed halls but later, as a journalist, I’d go there occasionally to interview celebrities (like Gary Rhodes who used to be chef, and the aforementioned Blowers) or cover some august event or other. Now, here I was chatting with the owner as if we were two old friends, despite the fact that, for some reason, we’d never met before. And what I came away with was that wonderful feeling of permanence. It is worth celebrating if you can find it. And the Chapman’s 75th anniversary helps us do just that. Kit Chapman (seated) with Head Chef Gary Rhodes back in the day SIDEBAR: CASTLE TALES The Hairspray Epiphany Before joining the family firm, Kit worked in London advertising. The moment he realised he was in the wrong trade occurred at a sales conference for a client’s hairspray. “The curtains parted, and there was this enormous display of hairspray. Of 'gunk,' really. And the loudspeakers came out with Beethoven’s Ode to Joy, if you please, to introduce a can of hairspray! I thought: ‘This is really very stupid. What am I doing here?’” The Dining Room at the Castle Hotel Three British Gentlemen in America In a 1970s bid to attract American tourists, Kit and two colleagues rebranded themselves as "The Three British Gentlemen" and flew to the USA on the Concorde. “With bowler hats, furled umbrellas, ties and shirts made in Jermyn Street... we were being treated like bloody rock stars. Ridiculous! We got mobbed in Atlanta, Georgia by all these women who met us off the plane. We got into our bedrooms and there were gifts from them—t-shirts with 'We love you all' and stuff like that.” The Art of the "Cabinet Minute” Kit recalls a lunch with Lord Armstrong of Ilminster, who had been Cabinet Secretary under Margaret Thatcher. Armstrong shared his secret to recording history: “He said, ‘I never ever wrote down what they actually said. Nor did I note what they thought they said. But I always wrote down what should have been said if they had thought about it.’” The Penthouse at The Castle The Keith Floyd “Disaster” The legendary chef Keith Floyd was a regular character at The Castle, but one specific event nearly caused Kit a heart attack. “By the time he got up to speak, he was roaring drunk. He started making a speech that would have made a rugby 15’s faces go red. He was so disgusting. I wanted to dig a deep hole and pile into it because I thought, ‘This is the best way to lose my clients.’” The Hotel “Ironing Service” of 1950 Kit’s description of the hotel’s state when his father first arrived in 1950 serves as a hilarious (if slightly grim) reminder of how far the establishment has come. “The then housekeeping department rarely changed the sheets, but gave them a quick iron and put them back on the beds. My father spent his first night at the Castle with the night porter cleaning the place.” Kit Chapman has always been a keen supporter of the arts in Taunton and I promised we’d carry the following link for those interested in Somerset county’s cultural scene - Arts Taunton link – https://artstaunton.co.uk

Experiencing authentic eats abroad: a guide for travellers Beyond the bustling streets and picture-perfect restaurants you may be drawn to when visiting a new location, there are neighbourhood cafes, morning markets, and small kitchens delivering delicious dishes that locals enjoy every day. Meals like these reveal the true nature of a destination, and are often shaped by long-standing traditions, rather than current trends. Looking out for them means really getting to know the destination you’re visiting on a much deeper level. Finding authentic eats abroad can be tricky, but a little curiosity is worth it for unforgettable experiences. Here, we share our tips for travellers seeking authentic cuisines overseas. Think like a local Restaurants near tourist attractions will be targeted at visitors rather than the local community, and while you may find traditional dishes on these menus, they may be adapted versions that lack the same rich flavours and textures of the original dishes. Head towards residential neighbourhoods and small restaurants in lesser-known areas instead – if there are locals inside, there’s a good chance you’ll find authentic dishes on the menu. Food is about more than just taste – it’s often the history of the community , so seeking such dishes will undoubtedly bring opportunities for connection. Don’t be reluctant to put yourself out there and ask around about the best places to eat. Explore markets and street food stalls Exploring local markets will take you straight to the source of some of your destination’s most authentic dishes. From fruit and vegetable stalls to street food vendors selling simple meals, you’ll find an abundance of flavours just waiting to be discovered. This will also allow you to get a real feel for the quality of the produce, as you can see it in its fresh, raw form. Enjoy the sights, sounds and smells of these cultural hubs, and you’ll leave with a better understanding of where your dishes come from, as well as the people behind some of your most loved recipes. If you’re staying in a self-catered accommodation, why not take the chance to cook something local for yourself? Embrace the unexpected Some of the most authentic food experiences happen when you step out of your comfort zone. Be open to trying dishes you’ve never heard of, sitting at communal tables, or sampling dishes recommended to you by local chefs. While it can be daunting to put yourself out there, particularly when there’s a language barrier , this is the best way to discover new spots spontaneously – you’ll truly be getting a taste for life as most tourists never get to experience it. Authentic food is less about labels and more about the context of the dish – it’s how locals eat, what’s grown nearby, and how flavours are built around the resources and traditions of the region. Being a good food tourist means respecting the people and places behind the dishes you’re served – remember that they reflect a whole culture, so be sure to follow necessary local customs and etiquette. So long as you have a genuine appreciation for authentic food, it’s hard to go wrong abroad. Lead with curiosity and respect and you’ll be guided towards some of the most memorable dishes you’ll ever encounter.

Food markets in the West Indies offer travellers the most direct way to experience authentic island cooking and everyday life.   These are the everyday working markets where locals buy fresh produce and seafood and haggle over prices with vendors, giving you an unfiltered look at how people shop and eat when no one is putting on a show for tourists. While beaches and resort restaurants draw the crowds, these markets show the real rhythm of island food culture. Food markets in the West Indies offer travellers the most direct way to experience authentic island cooking and everyday life.  These are the everyday working markets where locals buy fresh produce and seafood and haggle over prices with vendors, giving you an unfiltered look at how people shop and eat when no one is putting on a show for tourists. While beaches and resort restaurants draw the crowds, these markets show the real rhythm of island food culture. Oistins Fish Market, Barbados Oistins Fish Market  operates in two distinct phases.  In the morning, it functions as a working fish market, where fishermen unload snapper, mahi-mahi, and flying fish, while vendors clean and sort catches at long communal tables. Shopping is direct and efficient, with little small talk.  Return in the evening, and the market becomes something closer to a communal dining room. Visitors should expect to eat standing up and follow the flow of existing queues rather than forming their own.  Many travellers arrive in Barbados after exploring Caribbean cruise options , which come with organised port stops. However, spending an evening independently at Oistins will give you a much better sense of local food habits than a guided excursion. Here’s another cruise-related tip for you: hunting for last-minute cruises  is the ultimate way to enjoy a premium suite for a fraction of the brochure price. Roseau Market, Dominica Roseau Market  shows the island’s strong connection between agriculture and daily cooking. Located close to the waterfront, the market is open-sided and functional, with tarpaulins pulled tight during frequent rain showers.  Expect a wide range of root vegetables, leafy greens, breadfruit, herbs, and homemade juices. English and Creole are used interchangeably, and communication is often minimal, relying on gestures and established routines.  This market offers clear insight into how Dominicans shop and cook using ingredients grown nearby, often harvested only hours earlier. Musgrave Market, Port Antonio Musgrave Market  is quieter than markets in Jamaica’s major resort towns, but no less purposeful. Named after former governor Sir Anthony Musgrave, it has served as a community trading hub for more than a century.  The market is busiest on Saturday mornings, when vendors sell fresh fruit, vegetables, fish, meat, and prepared foods.  At the front of the market, jerk stands prepare chicken and pork, while other areas include craft stalls and small shops selling clothing and souvenirs. Shopping here follows a predictable rhythm: customers approach stalls, place orders directly, pay, and move on. Visitors who take time to observe how locals order and collect purchases generally find the experience more enjoyable and welcoming. Why Food Markets Are Still the Best Way In For all the effort that goes into planning meals abroad, food markets remain the simplest and most reliable way to understand how a place actually shops and eats. They show you what’s available, what’s affordable, and what ends up in local home kitchens every day. All you need to shop at these markets is a willingness to watch how things are done and follow along. Ask a quick question if you are unsure about something, and you will walk away with great produce and a real feel for the island's daily rhythm.

Why a Pre-Trip Vehicle Inspection is Essential for Stress-Free Travel The excitement and anticipation of planning a road trip often take over, shaping every part of the process. Car travel gives you freedom, the ability to choose your route, and the opportunity to take your time exploring. However, long drives put a lot of stress on the car, especially when it is loaded with luggage and passengers for extended periods. It is a must to be well-prepared for hassle-free trips, thereby not only saving yourself from annoying delays but also turning the experience into worry-free enjoyment. Why a Thorough Inspection Matters Before You Travel Many motorists focus on routes, accommodation, and packing, yet overlook the importance of mechanical readiness. This can be a costly oversight when travel plans involve long distances or unfamiliar driving conditions. Taking the simple step of scheduling a professional inspection early in your travel planning gives you a clear picture of your vehicle’s condition and time to deal with any concerns before setting off. For example, you can get your car inspected thoroughly without spending a penny by scheduling a free MOT check with Elite Direct, helping you stay compliant with all legal and safety requirements. The Value of Early Checks for Road Trips A free MOT check can spot problems you might not notice in daily driving. Brakes, tyres, steering, and lights are tested more thoroughly for extended travel, and finding wear and tear early reduces the risk of breakdowns. That helps your trip run smoothly from start to finish. If you’re planning a holiday or road trip, this simple step makes travel safer and more reliable. Supporting Safe and Responsible Travel Providing safe travel experiences is an important goal for all travellers covering long distances or unfamiliar routes. Knowing that your car is roadworthy will give you peace of mind, so that you can continue your journey without interruption due to mechanical issues or extreme weather conditions. Avoiding Unnecessary Stress and Expenses Breakdowns are one of the fastest ways to ruin a trip. Recovery services, emergency repairs, and last-minute changes to travel plans can convert a refreshing holiday into a worrying situation. Scheduling a check prior to your trip is a great way to lower these risks, enabling you to sort out issues beforehand and handle the financial side of things better. Such readiness not only makes for a smoother journey but is also a good way to keep your travel expenses in check. Making Vehicle Checks Part of Your Travel Planning Travel planning goes beyond just packing necessities and picking destinations. One realistic measure to safeguard your plans and your own peace of mind is to include a vehicle health check in your pre-trip preparation. Knowing your car is prepared for the trip ahead allows you to concentrate on appreciating the open road and making the most of your travel adventure.

Why Post-Christmas Walks Matter Post Christmas walking in England's Southwest… Punch those words into my computer hard discs and I discover that, in the past quarter of a century, I’ve written a couple of dozen articles based on this theme, which is not exactly surprising for a couple of reasons… The first of which is that even busy people tend to have time on their hands during the strange period between Christmas and New Year - added to that they’ve probably been indoors a good deal stuffing themselves and are generally in need of exercise and fresh air. Which brings us immediately onto the second reason… The alarming and dispiriting fact that more people keel over with heart attacks over Christmas than at any other time of the year. Not surprising really, when you think of all that unaccustomed rich food and the booze – plus the break in people’s normal routines… But now the dangerous moment has passed; maybe it’s time we thought about our levels of bodily fitness and well-being. And my favourite - indeed the nation’s favourite - way of staying healthy is to go for a regular bracing country walk. Which is why Hesp Out West is going to be devoted to ideal post Christmas walking ideas over the next couple of weeks. Belever Tor on Dartmoor Start with Gentle West Country Walks However, I’d recommend being a little careful after the excesses of the festive period – which is why I’m starting by suggesting a round-up of easy but refreshing walks you can do during the festive limbo. And just a note here… As I live in what could be called the “true South West” - by which I mean, west of Bristol - I tend to focus on the actual West Country peninsula, so apologies to readers who live north or east of this large and hugely scenic area. If we divide that region up into ten areas there should be at least one route near to you. My areas are: North and Central Somerset, West Somerset and Exmoor, West Dorset, South East Devon, Dorset Dartmoor, South West Devon, North Devon and North Cornwall, Mid and South East Cornwall, West Cornwall and the Isles of Scilly. Let’s work the list backwards… St Agnes in the Isles of Scilly Isles of Scilly: Best Easy Winter Walks St Agnes Coastal Circuit The Scillies provide one of the best walking areas in the country because, apart from the amazing maritime views, there is so little traffic. The islands are also pretty flat so they’d make an ideal location for walking off the Christmas flab. I realise not many readers are likely to be going there at this time of the year, but if you are fortunate enough to be flying out to the Fortunate Isles, then the four mile walk around the perimeter of lonely St Agnes would probably be at the top of my list of ideal post festive strolls to be enjoyed anywhere. Not only will you be walking around the most south-westerly place in the UK, you will also stand a good chance of seeing some rare migrant bird or other which has been blown off course by winter gales. And you can rest your weary limbs at the end of this gentle but wild meander with a pint in the excellent Turk’s Head. Strange rock formations on St Agnes West Cornwall: Coastal Paths & Church Cove Church Cove & Halzephron Cliff Loop The church at Church Cove As for West Cornwall: our traditional Christmas is meant to be about God so why not throw a church into our walking recipe? Church Cove, on the Lizard’s west coast, not only boasts a wonderful old temple by the seashore, it also offers some easy strolls. My recommended walk starts at Winnianton, walk back up road to Halzephron Cliff, join coast path back to Church Cove - then take right of way across golf course inland (beware low flying balls) and join road down to Poldhu Cove before eventually taking coast path back to start. Church Cove, the Lizard, Cornwall Mid & South East Cornwall: Caradon Hill Railway Walk Minions & Caradon Mast Circular Oddly enough you can walk around the very roof of this particular area without having to get out of breath, thanks to the old quarry railway that runs around Caradon Hill. Old mines around Minions in Cornwall Where there’s a disused railway, there’s usually a very flat stroll… The fact you are on the roof of South East Cornwall is reinforced by the massive television mast which crowns the hill. The 750-foot transmitter provides half the peninsula with its TV signal - you can see it for miles. Conversely, you can see for miles if you walk to the top of the hill. Simply start at the village of Minions (where there’s a pub that does excellent food) and walk around the mast in which ever direction you choose. North Devon & North Cornwall: Gentle Morwenstow Loop St John’s Well to Higher Sharpnose Point Cliffs at Morwenstow Mention the hamlet of Morwenstow and most local walkers would puff and blow at the thought. The coast path that runs from Hartland Point to Bude is one of the most roller-coaster-ish stretches to be found or endured, but there is a wonderful little stroll you can do from the church at Morwenstow that will not over-do the post Christmas cardiovascular limits. Walk down past the rectory to St John's Well to find footpath along the bottom of the valley to the sea cliffs. Turn left here and there is one steep climb up the SW Coast Path which you take to Higher Sharpnose Point. However, don’t go as far as to descend into the Tidna Valley – turn inland near to where Parson Hawker’s remarkable hut is located on the cliffs and follow the footpath back across the flat hilltop fields to the first class pub near the church. Morwenstow Church South West Devon: Dramatic Brentor Walk St Michael de Rupe (20-minute Hill Walk) If I had to choose a church in which to give praise for all that is holy this Christmas, I would have no hesitation in selecting St Michael de Rupe perched high on the crags of Brentor. It is, after all, closer to heaven than almost any other temple in the south of England and certainly it offers worshippers a better view of God’s handiwork than any other church I can think of. In short, the quick hike up to the little church at the top of Brentor, a couple of miles north west of Tavistock, is one of the most dramatic 20-minute walks you can do in Southern Britain. Dartmoor: Bellever Tor & Pinewoods Easy Routes to Bellever Tor Central Dartmoor from Bellever Tor Bellever Tor, in the very heart of Dartmoor, is both convenient to the few road routes that cross the centre of the national park and, thanks to its pine-woods, relatively sheltered when the midwinter weather is inclement. It also offers some of the flattest walking on Dartmoor, being situated in the big wide central basin of the plateau. There are numbers options which allow you to reach Believer Tor itself, which is nothing more than a knoll sticking out of the woods, These are easily to be found from several of the car parks that surround it, and they allow you to make your walk as long or short as your over-stuffed limbs will allow. South East Devon: Woodbury Common Triassic Pebblebed Trails Woodbury Common offers some of the finest inland walking to be found in the southeast Devon area, and the plateau is fairly flat so you can enjoy the views without overdoing it. Paths criss-cross the various commons and it's easy to make up your own route as you go. I’d recommend a gentle meander through the southerly limits of the area's fascinating Triassic pebblebeds - to give them their official title – there are plenty of interpretation boards with maps showing way-marked routes. Dorset: West Bexington to Abbotsbury 10/10 Coastal Views & Historic Hills The West Bexington to Abbotsbury hike scores a perfect 10-out-10 for views, history, and the promise of a good pub finish. Starting at the Manor House in West Bexington, a short, sharp 15-minute haul up Limekiln Hill gets the hard work over early, rewarding you with some of Southern Britain’s finest coastal panoramas. From here, it’s level walking through National Trust fields to Tulk’s Hill—above the wonderfully named Labour In Vain Farm—and east toward the ancient earthworks of Abbotsbury Castle. Continuing past Wear’s Hill, we descend into Abbotsbury village, crossing to Chapel Lane and heading seawards. Skirting the famous Swannery and St Catherine’s Hill, we eventually hit the beach at the western end of The Flete. From there, it’s simply a matter of marching along the coast path back to West Bexington, turning inland for a well-earned drink at the pub. West Somerset & Exmoor: Coast Path & Culbone Greenaleigh, Burgundy Combe & Culbone Church One hike I sometimes do at this time of year is immediately west of Minehead along the very first section of the South West Coast Path. Past the little farm at Greenaleigh you can take a detour to steep Burgundy Combe - you’ll certainly burn excess calories – you will also discover the ruined chapel where smugglers used to hide the festive booze that gives the place its name. Perhaps a more gratifying experience would be to walk from Porlock Weir up to the UK’s smallest complete church at Culbone. This is a bit arduous to be honest - if you’re really feeling lazy just stroll from the harbour out along to the shingle ridge and admire the long stretch of wild coastline where Exmoor meets the sea. Back at the harbour I’d highly recommend the Porlock Weir Hotel or the Ship Inn for refreshments. Central & North Somerset: Somerset Levels Maunsel Lock & Sedgemoor Starling Murmurations If you are looking for a really level walk so as not to strain over-fed self then, of course, an area which includes the world “level” in its name must come up trumps. The Somerset Levels is a wonderful place to walk at any time of year, but right now you will be treated to one of the greatest aerial displays in nature if you go late in the afternoon. The great starling roosts of Sedgemoor should be listed as one of the seven wonders of the UK. Looking over the Somerset Levels The walk from Maunsel Lower Lock car park on the Taunton - Bridgwater Canal is one of the least energetic I know anywhere. Walk north, along the towpath, beyond Godfrey's Corner to Whites, then south over the rhynes to Wisteria Farm and Coxhill Bridge - and back along the canal.

We did an awful lot of travelling, exploring and eating for this website during 2025, so we have just pulled together some photos of the first half of the year - with links to the relevant pages on this site. Living inside Exmoor National Park , we always spend time just after New Year wandering around in the moors… These hikes in the middle of the moors often end up in Lynton or Lynmouth where it’s always fun to spot on of the wild goats in the Valley of Rocks . In early 2025 we were off to Cornwall - this time to an amazing holiday home in Polzeath … And then we were off to the Lake District for a two part stay in February - starting at The Samling, an very lovely hotel situated on a beautiful slope overlooking Lake Windermeer. The second half of our stay was centred on the lovely and cosy Rothay Manor at Ambleside. And then it was back down to Cornwall, this time St Ives. And then we were off to the very northern tip of Denmark . We loved Skagen and the extraordinary area based on the sand spit which reaches north into the Skagerrak. The town is filled with lovely people and delicious food. After that we visited Aarhus known as Europe’s City of Smiles. We could see why… After that there was a brief trip to Cornwall so that I could attend a fish cookery course run by my new pal Annie Seabourne We stayed at the lovely Budock Vean Hotel … Then there was a trip to Dorset with my old friend, the poet and writer James Crowden - this time tracking down out-of-the-way cider farms. And another local day lout tracking down the best cream teas in lovely tea gardens . And then it was back down past Cornwall to the Isles of Scilly to meet with various food and drink producers around the islands. Then Cornwall again, staying at this amazing property in Mousehole and being catered for by our brilliant friends Rebecca and Robin from Indulgence Catering. And then, to round off the first half of 2025, to Sri Lanka as part of a truly wonderful expedition organised by the British Guild of Travel Writers in conjunction with Sri Lanka Tourism. I was with a group from the BGTW which signed up for a particularly lengthy journey around this most magical of all islands. It was called The Road Less Travelled , and after 3000 kilometres, we could see why. I loved every minute of it. The Sri Lankan people are among the most friendly and welcoming anywhere on the planet – which is saying something, seeing they were fighting a terrible civil war not that long ago. Actually, I see that British tourism in Sri Lanka has grown by some whopping figure (over 600 percent) this year, and I like to think this may, in part, be down to some of the work we folk from the Guild of Travel Writers did after our wonderful visit.

Continuing this website’s review of last year... we move to July, when a trip on the truly amazing Sea Cloud was in the diary. Which meant flying to Naples and spending the night there before embarking on the remarkable sailing ship. Who doesn’t like Naples? It must be one of the most exciting and vibrant cities in Europe. Unfortunately we were hit by a freak rainstorm while there, but it did not spoil our enjoyment of the place. Then it was home to the West Country for some vintage cider tasting And we’re talking VERY old ciders… We also visited numerous seaside locations of the more untrodden and unvisited kind… BBQ season lasted months There was a memorable stroll along England’s new coast path from Portishead to Clevedon . And a cycle-ride around the lovely Exe Estuary On the Exe Estuary Trail And then it was off to the wonderful Malsters in South Devon … The Malsters, on the River Dart And a stay at the Royal George at Tintern The Royal George, Tintern … Next up was a fabulous stay at Boringdon Hall on the edge of Dartmoor near Plymouth… Boringdon Hall just outside Plymouth After that we popped down to Cornwall to stay at the Bassett Arms , a really good newly refurbished pub in Portreath. Portreath in late summer Next I joined the British Guild of Travel Writers to discover the lesser known parts of the Algarve. Monchique in the Algarve While there we stumbled upon a magical chestnut festiva l held each autumn in a lovely little town in the mountains. The chestnut festival ion Monchique . And all was rounded off by a trip to the wonderful Pedn Olva in St Ives

Series Overview: A Life in Stories and Travel Podcast image for Adventures in Journalism Adventures in Journalism is an immersive audio series hosted by veteran British journalist and author Martin Hesp. Drawing on decades of experience as a regional and national reporter, Hesp takes listeners beyond the headlines to explore the soul of a destination. The podcast is characterised by its "on-the-road" style, blending evocative soundscapes with intimate interviews. While the series frequently highlights the rural charm and culinary heritage of the West Country, it regularly ventures internationally—from the mountains of Madeira to the olive groves of Italy. The core mission of the series is to document the intersection of food, travel, and social history, often focusing on the lives of people who maintain ancient traditions in a modern world. Martin Hesp interviewing Mr Radley Greenslade in a radio interview many years ago Episode Spotlight: New Year’s Thinking While Pondering Warm and Sunny Places Published: January 2026 In the latest installment of the series, Martin Hesp shakes off the damp chill of a British winter to explore two of Europe’s most culturally rich southern regions. This episode serves as both a travel guide for the soul and a meditation on agricultural preservation. 1. Exploring the Hidden Algarve, Portugal Moving away from the high-rise resorts, the episode delves into the "Wild West" and the rural interior of the Algarve . Hesp interviews a specialist local guide who reveals the region's secret spots—places where the Atlantic air meets quiet hillsides and traditional Portuguese life remains unchanged. This segment provides listeners with an insider's view of sustainable, off-the-beaten-track tourism. 2. The Ancient Olive Groves of Puglia, Italy The journey continues to the Salento peninsula in Puglia , the "heel" of the Italian boot. Here, the podcast captures a moving conversation with a local farmer dedicated to the stewardship of millennial olive trees . Some of these majestic specimens are over 2,000 years old. The segment explores: The historical significance of olive oil production in the Mediterranean. The challenges of preserving living monuments that date back to Roman times. The deep emotional and cultural connection between the land and its people.

Wok-Burners, Winter Walks, and Real Food: January Tips from Rebecca Farrington-Turner Rebecca Farrington-Turner, who runs the excellent Indulgence Catering from Newlyn It’s that time of year again when millions of us are looking at our diets to find a way of eating our way towards better health and fitness. It is, of course, something which we should be doing 365 days of the year, but somehow the post-festive slump that occurs in early January lends itself to the idea that we could enjoy happier more fulfilled lives if only we took better care of our bodies. Some folk go at it like a bull charging a gate - they make New Year’s resolutions on the food and drink front that would scare a sergeant in the SAS. Others are content to merely make a tweak here or there. Whichever system does it for you, perhaps the best idea is to simply make the new regime enjoyable enough so that it stands the test of time - or at least a chance of lasting beyond January. New Year good-intentions can come in many shapes and forms. My own plan this week was, on the face of it, quite bizarre. It consisted of the purchase of some tiny wire brushes and a miniature plug-spanner set. Why? Because the wok-burner on our gas hob stopped working a while ago - but, given the post-festive bloating and blues, I was feeling in dire need of some fresh and healthy stir-fry dishes. When you think about it, the classic stir-fry produces a vegetable-heavy dish that is nothing more than a hot salad. Yes, you can throw in a few prawns or some slivers of meat, but multiple veg’ make up the main ingredients. And, yes, you do need a wok-burner. A normal hob or hot-plate just won’t produce the extreme temperature that allows you to rapidly cook, seal and partly caramelise things like strips of carrot, onion or bell-peppers. What you end up with if you stir-fry over a low or moderate heat is a vegetable stew. Which can be nice enough in its own way, but it will not have the lightness or crunch of the true wok-experience. Hence those tiny wire brushes and miniature sockets. After watching several YouTube instruction videos, I managed to safely clean the jets in my grimy old wok-burner - it’s now roaring away with enough blue flame to lift a hot air balloon. Expert Advice for January So that’s me sorted. But what does a real nutrition expert have to say about the art of eating healthily at this time of the year? I asked an old friend of these pages, Rebecca Farrington-Turner, who runs the excellent Indulgence Catering company down in Newlyn, and who is also a fully qualified health coach. “January doesn’t need to be about punishment or restriction,” was the first thing Rebecca told me. “After the Christmas and New Year festivities, most people don’t need a detox — they need gentle nourishment, routine and reassurance. “In fact, I always encourage people to add things back in rather than take everything away… More vegetables, more fibre, more colour, more movement — alongside food that still feels enjoyable. Food that is comforting and restorative. “Walking and eating work beautifully together at this time of year,” she continued, echoing the theme of the past two Hesp Out West articles. “A daily walk (especially somewhere coastal or green) helps reset the head, while simple home-cooked food steadies energy levels and digestion.” Fabulous food from Indulgence Catering And of course Rebecca has firm ideas about the sort of food we ought be eating at this time of the year - especially during a cold snap like the one that’s hit the Westcountry over the past couple of weeks… “Winter eating should feel grounding - I’m talking about soups, stews, roasted vegetables, grains and pulses,” she told me. “These are the foods that support gut health, which often takes a knock over the festive period and shows up as bloating, low energy or feeling a bit ‘sluggish’. “You don’t need fancy ingredients or long recipes,” says Rebecca. “Just real food, cooked simply, eaten regularly. And importantly — food should still be pleasurable. If it doesn’t feel satisfying, it won’t stick.” Grounding Winter Recipes Rebecca kindly gave me some easy-to-follow recipes to try at home - and having cooked and consumed all three, I can vouch that they tick all the right boxes... Butternut Squash and Coconut Soup Ingredients: 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 onion diced 1 butternut squash (approx. 1kg), peeled and chopped into 1cm cubes ½ teaspoon chilli flakes ½ teaspoon turmeric 2 cloves garlic, grated or crushed 2 cm ginger, grated Salt and pepper to taste 250ml vegetable stock 400ml tin coconut milk Juice of ½ lime 2 tablespoons coriander leaves, chopped Method: Put the olive oil in a large saucepan and add the diced onion, garlic and ginger. Fry on a gentle heat with the lid on for 5 minutes until softened. Add the cubed butternut squash, chilli flakes and turmeric and fry on a low heat for 2 minutes. Add the stock, bring to the boil, then simmer for 15-20 minutes until the squash is soft. Turn the heat right down, add the coconut milk, lime juice, and chopped coriander. Blitz with a blender until smooth. Serve with pumpkin seeds and fresh chilli. Chickpea and Spinach Curry Ingredients: 1 can (400g) Chickpeas 2 tablespoons Vegetable Oil 1 onion, chopped Fresh ginger (thumb-size piece, grated) 1 tsp Tomato Puree 1 tbsp Ground Cumin 2 tbsp Garam Masala 1 tsp Ground turmeric 2 tbsp Ground Coriander 0.5 tsp Chilli Powder 400g Tinned Tomatoes 1 cup Green Peas (Frozen) 2 cups Baby Spinach 2 tbsp Greek Yogurt 1 tbsp Mango Chutney Method: Add oil to a pan and slowly cook the onion for five minutes. Add the ginger and all the dried herbs and cook for a further five minutes. Add the chickpeas, tomato puree and tinned tomatoes. Simmer until reduced by a third. Finally, add the spinach and frozen peas. Finish with mango chutney, yoghurt and fresh coriander. Serve with brown rice. Ginger and Turmeric Shots Ingredients: 2-3 inch piece of fresh ginger, chopped 1-2 inch piece of fresh turmeric, chopped 2 large oranges, peeled 1-2 large lemons, peeled 100-200ml water (or coconut water) ¼ teaspoon black pepper (essential for turmeric absorption) Optional: 1 tbsp honey Method: Blend all ingredients in a high-speed blender for 1-2 minutes until smooth. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve, pressing down on the pulp to extract all liquid. Store in the refrigerator for 3 to 5 days. Shake well before drinking one shot daily. Subscribe Join my inner circle of food and travel lovers to get the latest Hesp Out West features Email Address Sign Up We respect your privacy. Thank you!

Gentle Winter Walks Across the West Country Walking your way to fitness and health after the festivities is one of the most enjoyable and invigorating things you can do during that dreary time of the year otherwise known as the second-half of winter. Some people take post-festive fitness very seriously, signing up for gym regimes and diets that would cause a serious athlete to lose sleep. Inevitably, all to many realise they are living a fantasy. You can only eat raw carrots and workout endlessly for a limited period before your body or mind finds a way of escaping the tyranny. Perhaps good intentions should be as pleasurable as possible – it is, after all, how they teach rats to perform tricks in laboratories. If body and mind receive pleasurable sensations, then there’s a chance you’ll continue - and many would agree that the best way to increase fitness easily is by walking. Particularly in times when we’re all feeling the pinch - strolling through lovely countryside is the best free deal there is. Medical evidence shows that even a modest amount of extra walking brings significant health benefits. Various governments have lauded the benefits down the years - there’s even an official definition of a “health walk”, which is: “a purposeful, brisk walk undertaken on a regular basis.” “It is the relative intensity of the walk for the individual and the regularity of participation that can really have an impact on heart health,” says a government blurb sent to me back in 2006. “With regard to cardiovascular health, the walk should be purposeful and 'brisk' - in other words more than just a stroll.” Following last week’s suggestions across the South West, here are some more routes that act as a good introduction to country walking. Once again, I am dotting them around the Westcountry peninsula so you won’t have to travel too far – and, being just a few miles each in length, they should help instil a sense of achievement while allowing you to enjoy wonderful scenery just about every step of the way. Cornwall Walks: Frenchman’s Creek (Helford River) Pure romanticism is the theme of this short walk. Frenchman’s Creek has more of a novel's atmosphere than any other literary location - it allows you to mentally plunge into the derring-deeds of Daphne du Maurier's brilliant tale. I recommend taking the foot-ferry across from Helford Passage. There’s something special about arriving at a walk by boat and anyway, the hamlet on the north side of the river-mouth is much easier to reach than negotiating the tortuous lanes of the Lizard peninsula. In the tiny village of Helford, a lane leads along the creek, past the (excellent) pub, and eventually crosses a stream at a point close to where a footpath sign points to Manaccan. We take the track through the trees until a junction allows us to turn right into Under Wood - then climb the hill towards Kestle, an ancient farm situated on the ridge that divides Helford from Frenchman's Creek. A track leads west from Kestle, down the hill and into the trees. This is how Du Maurier describes it: “The trees were thinning, she was coming to the bank - and there, suddenly before her for the first time, was the creek, still and soundless, shrouded by the trees, hidden from the eyes of men.” The National Trust owns the eastern bank of the creek and there’s a path along the waterside so that walkers can enjoy its hidden delights. After a while this path departs the waterside and climbs to meet the drive to a hidden house. Turn right here and follow it to a junction and take another right to follow the road another few hundred yards until you see a public footpath sign upon your left. This takes you through yet more Trust-owned property - until you reach Penarvon Cove. Now it’s simply a matter of taking the track to the right which will lead you the quarter-mile or so back to the ferry landing. Dartmoor Walks: Fernworthy Reservoir Circular A simple three-and-a-half-mile walk around a lake – and, being situated in the centre of Dartmoor - a very lovely lake it is too. To find Fernworthy follow the signs from Chagford, or from the Moretonhampstead-Princeton road. Either way is narrow and full of bends, but don't be put off - Fernworthy is a wonderful place to visit both in a watery and an arboreal sense. There's a visitor car park for those who simply wish to admire the view - or there's a choice of walks. The round-the-lake hike is probably easiest and most desirable. There seems little point in telling you where to go: a) because a large illustrated map adorns the interpretation board at the car park, and b) because the circumnavigation is obvious. All you have to do is make up your mind whether you want to walk clockwise or anti-clockwise – and enjoy. North Devon Walks: Lynton and Lynmouth Circular Within a mile of the twin communities there are vertiginous cliffs, rock stacks, deep valleys and woodlands, tumbling streams – all with the mighty backdrop of an ocean… No wonder Robert Southey described the epicentre of all this as: “The palace of pre-Adamite kings” – adding that the Valley of Rocks contained, “the very bones and skeleton of the earth.” We start at the bottom, by which I mean the seaside car park just beyond the Lyn Cliff Railway. After mid-February you have a choice of letting the funicular take you the 500-foot up to Lynton, but while it’s still closed for its annual winter refurbishment you must follow the footpath up. The higher you go, the more grandiose the whole scene becomes, which is not surprising given that the tallest cliffs in England are just across the bay. At the top we head towards Lynton’s main street but, as soon as we reach it, there’s a footpath to the right which takes us west out to the Valley of Rocks on the perpendicular seaward side of the hill. Sufferers of vertigo might want to avoid this path, although it is paved and quite safe. It eventually enters the Valley of Rocks at one of the two places where the great defile spills into the sea. Directly in front of us stands dramatic Castle Rock - a detour up this craggy pyramid is highly recommended. Inland, you’ll see the Devil’s Cheese-ring – a rock-stack said to have been home to legendary Mother Meldrum. If you’re feeling fit there is a route up past the rock-stack to the footpath which runs along the very brink of South Cleave. By turning left along this path you can make your way back down to the heart of Lynton. If you don’t fancy the near vertical 300 foot climb, simply walk back up the Valley of Rocks, passing the picturesque cricket pitch as you go. Then it’s simply a matter of making your way back down to the town centre. The shops will be on the right and St Mary’s church and the Valley of Rocks Hotel on your left. A path passes between the graveyard and the hotel and leads to the zig-zag path that takes us back down to Lynmouth. Somerset Walks: Will’s Neck Circular, Quantock Hills A steep clamber around the highest point of the Quantocks - exhausting in places but the views are among the most magnificent in the region. The hike starts at Triscombe and runs along the side of the hills to Little Quantock Farm, then it’s up on to the high ridge where we swing south east to ascend the AONB’s highest summit, Will’s Neck, before returning down a very steep track. To find all this scenic glory, drive 20 minutes out of Taunton on the Minehead road. After about seven miles turn right, follow signposts to Triscombe, and within a mile you will be in one of the loveliest hamlets in Somerset – tucked under the main Quantock ridge. Tucked, also, under one of the area’s largest quarries. Its red aggregate was used in all manner of famous places - I believe the red road outside Buckingham Palace was made of the stuff. Thankfully, the quarry is quiet nowadays. There’s not much at Triscombe save for a handful of pretty cottages and picturesque pub (the Blue Ball, which opens some days of the week - if it’s closed try the excellent Farmers’ Arms a mile away on the Taunton road). Find the footpath to Crowcombe and follow it to Little Quantock Combe. Now the hard work comes in: the walk to the top is steep, but well-worth it because the ridge of the Quantocks offers spectacular views in all directions. On a clear day you’ll see the whole of North Somerset, including The Levels and even the new Severn Bridge spanning the upper limits of the Bristol Channel. Now it’s a two mile jaunt south past Great Hill on the ancient drovers’ road. Just after you pass Triscombe Stone a path ascends gently uphill to the right. This is the way up to Will’s Neck – the highest point on the Quantocks. After that it’s simply a matter of descending the extremely steep path back to the hamlet. Central & North Somerset Walks: The Polden Way There’s a six-mile walking trail in Somerset that offers some of the best hiking in the region - at least, that’s the conclusion I came to after walking just a section of the Polden Way. The Polden Hills form a ten-mile ridge dividing the north and south Somerset Levels, offering wide panoramas across the flat landscapes. While the western end near the M5 is slim and capped by the A39, the south-eastern end near Compton Dundon is broader and more scenic. Here we find the Polden Way, linking Walton and Hurcot through beautiful areas which previously lacked public access, such as King’s Wood. While the full linear route is tempting—requiring two cars or a bus plan—we opted for a circular hike starting at Compton Dundon. The climb up Windmill Hill took us to the impressive Admiral Hood Monument. Thickets have been cleared here or there, opening up dramatic views of the southerly Levels. You can also see Glastonbury Tor to the north. The path winds south-east across Hatch Hill—where the large blue butterfly now thrives—towards the managed woodland of Combe Hill Wood. The trail continues through Great Breach Wood to Hurcot - we, however, descend the steep Combe Hollow Lane back to Compton Dundon, which concludes our a steep but spectacular Somerset stroll.

Festive Days Out in Somerset: Dunster Castle’s Christmas Adventure Thinking of something Christmassy to do? Something that the kids would absolutely love that does not involve going to a giant shopping mall or a theme park? Something traditional, perhaps, with tons of atmosphere, Christmas trees and fairy lights, along with the red suited man himself seated in a private room in a magical castle… Well, the National Trust is staging just such an opportunity at wonderful old Dunster Castle — and I’ve just been with my grandson to enjoy the festive scene and watch him meet a very good version of Father Christmas … Excellent it was too. A highly enjoyable afternoon well-worth a visit to the medieval Somerset village on the edge of Exmoor . Exploring Dunster Village: Walks, Views and Seasonal Charm Walk around Dunster and you will discover many splendid walks to be enjoyed. Just over a century ago Mrs Cecil Frances Alexander was so impressed that she sat down on Grabbist , the steep shoulder of hill that is the backdrop of the village, and wrote the famous hymn 'All Things Bright and Beautiful' . Dunkery Beacon, rising beyond the Avill Valley, might not be exactly a "purple headed mountain" - but the rest of it is true enough. Dunster’s History and Heritage Dunster is as historic as it is pretty, and it goes without saying that such a place draws day-trippers like a magnet. But that doesn't mean it is overburdened or spoiled by them. Somehow the village - or town - call it what you will, (in 1197 it was being described as a borough) seems to survive the annual onslaught. Whether this has anything to do with the fact that the National Trust rules the roost nowadays, I don't know. Probably. The organisation is a dab-hand at dealing with throngs of folk, and traffic in the village is now somewhat alleviated by the Trust's Castle car-park which is accessed direct from the main road. Dunster Castle: The Mighty Fortress Over the Village When I say 'rules the roost', I mean the organisation owns the castle. No village in England is more dominated by one ancient building. Everywhere you go - there it is, perched upon its knoll. There's been some sort of fort on the Tor since 1067 - and the people up there have held sway for the best part of a thousand years. There is something Gormenghastian about it. The castle seems to penetrate everything. It lurks, omnipotent, even on the darkest winter's night. A quarter of a century ago, when I was covering Dunster parish council for a local newspaper, there it was - the castle: lording it over the empty, rain-swept, silent streets like something indeterminate in a dream. I liked to think of the councillors casting a wary eye up at those indomitable fortifications and paying lip-service to those within. It was all so feudal, even then. A last vestige of older times. I recall one old boy referring to "His Lordship" even though mild-mannered, pleasant, Colonel Sir Walter Luttrell was not a Lord - just the last in a line of Luttrells to live in the place stretching back hundreds of years. And there was nothing draconian about him - on the contrary, he gave the place to the National Trust in 1976 and now lives in a big old house near the sea just a few miles to the east. Neither, of course, is the National Trust draconian - so it's been a long time since the folk of Dunster doffed their caps. But somehow a feeling of power still emanates from the great pile on the hill. You are left in no doubt that the lords who once lived there were masters of all they surveyed. Legends, Lords and Local Lore Actually, the Luttrell family had a good name as far as overlords go, but naturally they had the odd run-in with the grubby lot down below. All sorts of stories exist but my favourite is the one about Dunster's own version of 'Lady Godiva' . Lady Elizabeth de Mohun, a member of the family which originally built Dunster Castle, decided the family should show a little more in the way of largesse and she begged her husband to give some land to the commoners. He told her that he'd give them whatever land she could ride around at dawn. There was only one catch: she had to go naked. She did just that, but the village-folk are said to have been so grateful, they averted their eyes. If they did - then men have changed a lot over the years... But it's just one yarn in a history rich in legend and anecdote. A veritable pageant of the past has rolled along under the castle walls. Soldiers from Agincourt have been called to serve the Mohuns; mediaeval masons have hammered at the soft sandstone to build the huge church and priory; Benedictine monks have filed silently past the old Nunnery; mariners, who sailed a ship called Leonard of Dunster and used the vanished port called Dunster Haven , have carved their footprints in the church's lead roof; Royalist and Parliamentarian soldiers have besieged and been besieged; even Charles II took refuge here as a young prince... He didn't stay long. The 15 year old youth was brought to Dunster to escape the plague, but he left when it was discovered the villagers were dying of it themselves. Dunster Through the Centuries I could go on to fill books with Dunster's story. I could tell you about the packmen who frequented the Horse and Crook (now long gone) and how they quartered the county with their trains of horses, mules and donkeys - using the old pack-horse bridges like the one at Gallox on the edge of town. I could tell you about the farmers' wives who span the Exmoor fleeces to make yarn for the clothiers. They, in turn, spent their lives doing deals under the eight-sided roof of Dunster's famous Yarn Market . The local weavers made broadcloths from the material they bought at the market - and so well known did these garments become that they were called 'dunsters'. We could hear of the wassailers and of Dunster's very own Hobby Horse - the sinister Black Horse whose followers once murdered a man who wouldn't give them alms. And we could lament the souls of three Sedgemoor rebels who were hunted back to their home town and hanged just the other side of Gallox Bridge for their part in the Monmouth Rebellion. Why Dunster Remains So Unspoilt And we could bathe in all this history because Dunster has a more in the way of annals of antiquity than any other town in this series. More tales of yore - and less to spoil them. No vast housing or industrial estates here. No big-name stores - not even a petrol station. For the most part, modern buildings have been kept at bay across the main road at Dunster Marsh and the old centre has been left untouched. Untouched by everything but the internal combustion engine - which is a pity. I recall councillors talking about bye-passes decades ago. It's never happened, and broad old High Street is forever cluttered with vehicles where once market stalls surrounded the Yarn Market. Seems a shame: a car-less Dunster would be a thing of wonder - which, by-the-way, it is once a year when the villagers hold their famous candle-lit Christmas festivity night . But imagine the scene when this was the market centre for the north-eastern corner of Exmoor. It must have a been a marvellous, colourful sight. An image that obviously appals some of today's Dunsterites. A few years ago there was a move to rekindle the old mercantile spirit when several local producers wanted to inaugurate a West Somerset Farmer's Market in the main street. It never happened. Some of the shop owners put the boot-in and the farmers went off to nearby Minehead. Ironic - in a village famous for being a place where not a single can of beans can be bought. The entire community is geared up for the tourist trade, and an ordinary grocery store just doesn't fit the bill. Visiting Dunster Today: A Timeless Exmoor Village But even the village's plethora of gift shops and the cars cannot take away the charm that hangs about like a miasma above a stream. Dunster exudes charm, it has an allure, a fascination that hits you right in the face the moment you pass through that cutting on the A39. And they ought to do something about that, before someone else gets hurt. Dunster Facts You Probably Didn’t Know A legend that a giant had been locked in a dungeon turned out to be true when a massive manacled skeleton was uncovered during the last century in Dunster Castle's Gatehouse. The village once had a port called "The Hawn" , which still exists to some extent — now land-locked and home to ducks. There’s reputed to be a secret tunnel running from Dunster Castle to Conygar Tower. One of Thomas Hardy’s least successful novels, A Laodicean , was set in Dunster. The village still recalls its own oversized ogre with the locally named Giants Seat high on Grabbist.

Where to Go in the Run-Up to Christmas: London or a Staycation? Where to go in the run-up to Christmas? Shall we head for sunnier climes, drive west to enjoy the region’s seasonally empty beaches, or maybe visit some charming old market town? As I found out in Dartmouth last week, a staycation really can help put you in the mood for the festive season – but there are those who argue that you should go the full hog and head for our capital city. At which point it feels rude not to trot out Samuel Johnson’s famous line… “when a man is tired of London, he is tired of life…” However, it’s a phrase that some of us question, because there are a few people – country-lovers and the like – who are not quite as enamoured with the metropolis as the famous lexicographer. I am one of those people, but even I have to go there every so often – and, when I do, I have to admit I’m still charmed if not intoxicated by the place. I write about it here because, A) I visited recently, and B), being a travel writer, people often ask me for tips on where to stay and what to do in London. This article features two of my favourite places to stay in town. Alternative to London “A winter staycation in Dartmouth” Visiting London at Christmas: Why November and December Work So Well Like a great many people, I particularly like visiting during the run-up to Christmas, or perhaps immediately afterwards in the weeks when midwinter country-life begins to lose its sparkle. If visitor numbers are anything to go by, this is a commonly held sentiment. How many people do you know who pop-up to town in November or December to take in a show, do the Christmas shopping, have a special meal, see all the sights and enjoy the festive lights? I know a great many. We had several reasons for taking GWR’s Taunton to Paddington service recently – with a journey time of just one hour forty minutes, why would anyone drive? The first reason was that my wife absolutely loves soaking up the city’s Christmassy atmosphere and she also had gifts to buy and art exhibitions to see. As for me? Well, I was shortlisted for two prestigious British Guild of Travel Writer awards and, as it is rare to reach the finals in any category let alone two, I felt mildly confident. Surely I’d grab at least one gong? And so there I was at a glitzy awards dinner in the heart of town. Later you could have found me slumped in a very stylish apartment, also in the centre of town, shedding tears of disappointment. I always seem to fail in London. The hugeness of the place always seems to defeat me. Which, perhaps, has caused me to fall out of love with the place in recent years. Where to Stay in London: The Other House South Kensington Review However, on this occasion I was at least mollified to some degree. And that was thanks to the stylish apartment. Let me explain: the other reason I’d decided to go to London at such a busy time of year was because I’d received the following email… “ The Other House South Kensington would like to invite you to experience a stay at its Residents’ Club – a hybrid concept that combines apartment-style living, boutique hotel services, and the feel of a private members’ club.” Blimey, I thought… I normally end up sleeping on a friend’s sofa when I go to London (another reason I’m less keen to visit nowadays) so a bit of “apartment-style living”, along with boutique hotel services, would certainly make a visit a lot more jolly. Add the “feel of a private members’ club”, and I am definitely your man (he says, having never been a member of such a place). The Other House is located a short stroll from London’s museum quarter and the Royal Albert Hall. “The ‘club flats’ feature bold interiors, kitchenettes, and relaxed living areas, available to book for a night, a week, a month or longer,” the email explained. “Guests can also access The Club at The Other House, including its vitality pool, gym, wellbeing space, and cosy lounges.” We duly accepted the invitation and enjoyed living like visiting foreign diplomats or financiers during our short stay. There was me, swimming in the indoor heated pool, right there in the heart of London in the middle of winter, after doing a workout in the gym – and all before relaxing in an extremely cosy little lounge that looked for all the world like Sherlock Holmes’ study at 221b Baker Street. I could fall back in love with London if every stay was going to be like this. I certainly appreciated the quiet inner-city location, which really was super-convenient for all those museums and the many other delights of South Kensington. London Accommodation Prices: Is Central London Really Affordable? At which point readers might mutter something about all this costing a fortune. But it doesn’t. I’ve just looked up the prices, and booking a “club flat” at The Other House for two adults this week would have cost as little as £232 for a night. Okay, so prices can go up considerably if you’re hitting weekends or anything around Christmas itself, but I see there are plenty of options in January when a comfortable apartment would cost between £230 and £260 a night. Which, believe me, isn’t at all bad for this level of comfort and style in central London. I’m not sure how “apartment-style-living” differs from a normal hotel. No difference at all, as far as I could make out – with the exception that there isn’t any room service, which is something I rarely require anyway. The apartment did have its own kitchenette, which we were not going to be using but could come in useful if you were staying for any length of time. Instead, we had an excellent breakfast down at street level in The Other Kitchen (which also serves all-day brunch) and a drink in the rather glitzy Owl & Monkey bar. Oh, and the Other House South Kensington is just a quick Tube ride from Paddington (four stops on the Circle Line) making it particularly appealing for West Country folk coming up by train. So if you’re planning a last-minute visit before Christmas, that is my first recommendation. The Other House South Kensington https://otherhouse.com/south-kensington Apartment-style accommodation near the museums, Royal Albert Hall and Paddington. Ruby Lucy , Southbank: A Lean Luxury London Hotel I’m also a fan of the Ruby Hotel chain, having stayed in several across Europe, including Vienna. There are three of these funky and inexpensive hotels in that city and more being launched across Europe all the time – including London’s Ruby Lucy which opened just five years ago. The brand focusses on what they call the “lean luxury” philosophy, and the 75-room Ruby Lucy , enjoying an excellent location on the Southbank’s Lower Marsh Street, manages to encapsulate just that. The interior design is inspired by the area’s historic fairs and markets, not to mention its entertainment and theatre scene. Which is why there’s a carnival theme running throughout this comparatively small hotel. According to the Ruby Hotel team “Rich, dark tones meet bright brass accents and subtle stripes are accented with playful props including circus drums and juggling pins.” An accurate description of the hotel, located just a three-minute walk from Waterloo station, close to the South Bank’s assorted theatres, galleries, concert halls and independent shops. So, a fantastic position in town and, for London at least, affordably priced. Rooms at Ruby Lucy start from £188 per night (two sharing). Ruby Lucy Hotel, Southbank https://www.ruby-hotels.com/en/destinations/london/ruby-lucy Lean-luxury hotel close to Waterloo, theatres and the South Bank. Eating Your Way Around London: Street Food, Markets and Pop-Ups What do I enjoy when I’m in town? Eating. That’s the short but accurate answer. Yes, we did “do” the Kensington museums while staying at the Other House recently and a very jolly afternoon I had delving into the Natural History Museum . But if I am really honest, I do love the idea of traipsing around dining on a little here and a little there. Why? Because you can eat the world in London. It wasn’t always the case, but nowadays few cities anywhere around the planet can beat the diversity of food you find within the sound of Bow Bells. Take a place like Pop Brixton , built from shipping containers and one of the best examples of what’s called a “modular pop-up” venue. It’s basically a social hub with a variety of street food vendors, bars, and retail shops. While the vendors can change, it consistently offers a mix of international flavours in a lively setting. Or, close to the Ruby Lucy, there’s the Southbank Centre Food Market , well-known for its international stalls – perfect for a weekend visit, offering a huge choice of cuisines. You’ll find Korean BBQ burritos, authentic Pad Thai, Indian dosas, Vietnamese comfort food, Ethiopian vegan cuisine, Venezuelan Pabellon, Turkish Gözleme, Mauritian curries and a great deal more. Not far away, near London Bridge, Borough Market sets the gold standard, featuring a huge number of street food vendors alongside artisan produce. You’ll find everything from French confit duck to Sri Lankan specialties and West African fusion. Across the river, Camden Town market is well-known for its street food section. The stalls have a rapid turnover, meaning you can find everything from West African to Thai to gourmet burgers, often changing week-to-week. Battersea Power Station at Christmas: A Family-Friendly Festive Highlight If I’m not eating when I’m in town, I’ll be taking my two little grandsons out and about… Years ago when I lived in London, Battersea Power Station , with its four iconic chimneys, smoked away generating a fifth of the capital’s electricity. Nowadays it is a glitzy destination, which happens to stage a major Christmas fair, ideal for tiny boys under four years of age. The meticulously restored building is a thriving mixed-use space with more than 150 shops, over 50 restaurants, bars, apartments, and entertainment venues. At this time of the year the riverside neighbourhood is adorned with sparkling lights, a massive Christmas tree and Art Deco-inspired decorations inside the historic Turbine Halls. Festive attractions include a riverside ice-rink and the ‘Lift 109 experience’, which takes visitors up a north-west chimney for a unique 360-degree view of the capital's festive lights. Christmas markets, family workshops, and seasonal food huts complete the picture. My two grandsons loved it.