Cornwall Road Trip Delights: Award-Winning Beers, Butchers, and Harbour-Side Sourdough Pizzas We are creatures of habit, and one example we discussed recently in these pages is the regular port of call people make when they are travelling to certain places. I mentioned calling into Appledore on a drive back from Cornwall. If I’m going the other way I’ll often make a point of leaving the A30 at Launceston so that I can visit the truly excellent Philip Warren butchers’ emporium just off the main road. If you’re a carnivore and you are passing one of the best purveyors of meat in the country, you’d be mad not to. Stopping at Philip Warren Butchers in Launceston – A Carnivore’s Must-Visit on the A30 Imagine my delight, then, to discover there’s a first-class brewery located just behind the famous butcher shop. I called into the Firebrand Brewing Company the other day to try some alcohol-free beers and take home a selection of stronger ales, and very very good they were too. Up until now I’ve tended to avoid the low or alcohol free stuff, not because I am an alcoholic, but because it doesn’t often seem to have the mouthfeel or satisfaction of what I’d call “the real thing”. Firebrand Brewing Co – Craft Beer and Alcohol-Free Ale from Cornwall But Firebrand’s low or alcohol-free offerings are different. You can tell the young team which runs the operation thinks very hard about the challenge of making a fermented drink that has barely any alcohol. It’s good stuff - I’d be quite happy drinking either their zero ale or lager anytime I am the allotted driver. Best Places to Break a Journey on the Atlantic Highway (A39) By the way, if we go “the other way” to or from Cornwall (by which I mean, taking the Atlantic Highway route down past Bude and Wadebridge) it’s likely we’ll break the journey at one of the harbour towns or villages like Appledore along the way. On a recent trip we called in at Padstow where we discovered a really good new pizza place right by the harbour-side. The Stables proved to be exactly the right kind of destination for a perfect lunch. More about that establishment later… Visit Firebrand Brewing Co – From Farm Beginnings to Craft Beer Success Back on the A30 at Launceston, a good many readers will know how to find the Warren’s butchers’ emporium on the industrial estate located literally seconds off the main road. Just behind it, a little further into the estate, there’s what used to be a soft-play centre which now houses Firebrand’s state-of-the-art brewery and tap-room. It was there that I was lucky enough to meet Joe Thomson, co-owner and head brewer of Firebrand Brewing Co. He told me how the business started out in 2008 under the name Penpont Brewery, based in a local milking parlour in a farmyard, only to grow and later transition into Firebrand, with a leaning toward modern American-style craft beer, cask ales, and lagers. Today, the brewery supplies over 50 pubs, mostly in Cornwall and Devon, and also retail a range of beers and lagers in cans. There are nine core beers and make monthly seasonal brews, and a significant part of their business now includes alcohol-free beers, which they began producing about three years ago. Meet the Brewer: Joe Thomson and the Science Behind Firebrand Beers Joe started brewing at the age of 21, partly driven by a passion for the science behind the art of fermentation and also with a desire to make good beer. “I was doing a marine microbiology degree, so I am interested in the science behind microbiology - that is sort of my thing. And brewing is, effectively, applied science.” Joe agreed that setting up a new brewery in Cornwall was a bit like taking coals to Newcastle. “Cornwall really does push above its weight when it come to brewing - you’ve got St Austell and Sharps - but in some ways that means you can enjoy a name for quality through association. “However, we are a bit different - we make craft beer which is a little different to the traditional pint like Doom Bar or Tribute. Not that we are super-niche. We don’t make the really wild stuff that you can get from some places. We like to say it is accessible craft beer.” The Rise of Alcohol-Free Craft Beers in the South West I asked Joe to tell us about the low or alcohol free beers… “A few years ago I was trying to lose a bit of weight and, you know, trying to be a bit healthier. And I was trying some of the alcohol-free beers that were around - and I thought: I can do better. The challenge is really interesting. It is much harder to make. “There’s two ways to do it. You either make the beer and take the alcohol out, which requires incredibly expensive equipment that we don’t have - or you just do what’s called ‘brewing to strength’. I won’t go into all the technical details, but you make your mash really hot and that gives you more flavour, more body, than you’d normally get. You also select the right yeast to, again, give you more flavour. It is much harder to get right. “You end up with beer that’s 0.5 percent. That’s about the same small amount as you find in yoghurt or a banana. Some sourdough bread can go up to about one percent. And, no, of course you couldn’t get drunk on that - you could never eat enough for your body to metabolise it in time!” Firebrand has two main alcohol-free options: the Little Wave lager and the Shorebreak hazy pale ale. And sales are obviously going well… This year began with a record-breaking effort - their alcohol-free January sales were up 12% on the previous year and the brewery has enjoyed a huge 227% increase in subscriptions to their alcohol-free beers since the start of the year. Joe commented: “In the past, most of our revenue was generated in the summer beer drinking months, with another spike around Christmas. The first few months of the year were always very quiet, but since we started adding alcohol-free beer to our range, things have changed. Shorebreak and our more recently launched non-alcoholic lager, Little Wave, do a lot of the heavy lifting to support us in the quieter months at the beginning of the year. “Alcohol-free drinks used to be confined to Dry January and midweek occasions but that has all changed in the last few years so we are seeing much more consistent sales throughout the year and we continue to enjoy significant growth annually. This January, Shorebreak appeared on BBC1’s Saturday Kitchen and was named ‘Best Alcohol-Free Beer’ by The Guardian, which boosted sales even more.” The brewery has grown significantly, especially since 2021, and now employs 12 people plus taproom staff. They are exploring new developments like an alcohol-free stout and a lower-calorie lager. They also do pilot batches to experiment with new hops and techniques. Where to Eat in Padstow – The Stable Offers Sourdough Pizza and Westcountry Cider From beer to cider. And even better, fermented apple juice served alongside a very special fermented bread dough. That’s the combination I discovered on another trip to Cornwall recently when we called at Padstow for a break in our journey and a spot of lunch. Right there on the now world-famous harbour-side, we discovered a newly opened pizza restaurant called The Stable, which not only specialises in sourdough pizzas but also serves an impressive range of West Country ciders. It’s part of a fast growing chain based here in the South West - The Stable has other restaurants in places like Bristol, Plymouth, Bath, Falmouth and Newquay (Fistral beach) - which is a great thing for the region because the company takes great care to partner with local producers. When we called in (for what turned out to be a truly first class pizza) the other day I was able to have a quick chat with restaurant manager Charley Paines, who told me her team was particularly proud of the sourdough which is used in all their offerings. “We use a special sourdough starter called ‘Jerry’ who is probably the longest serving employee of The Stable. He’s been with the company since the beginning. We feed him everyday. So our sourdough makes us a little bit special, but so too does the range of Westcountry produce. That was always going to be important in what we offer at The Stable. We are offering an interesting range of ciders so that visitors can have a taste of what the region is all about. “We work very closely with local growers and suppliers on the food side of things, so it’s good to be able to do the same thing with the drinks. For example, we serve Sandford Orchards cider from Devon and feature a locals' drinks menu, highlighting producers just up the road like the Bearded Brewery. I think in a world where craft beer seems to have taken over in a lot of places, we’re trying to be the front runners when it comes to bringing good quality artisan made ciders to the fore.” Sourdough Pizza and Local Cider by the Sea in Padstow I went for one of the signature dishes, a large, nicely thin and crisp pizza called the Blazing Saddle, featuring slow-roasted pulled beef, jalapeños, red onion marmalade and roasted red pepper. It really hit the spot as I sat in a warm and comfy window seat just a few feet from the water’s edge, watching the crowds pass-by on a sunny but chilly day. The new 120-seat Padstow restaurant is the first of The Stable venues to serve a new menu offering larger, thinner, crispier pizza bases, alongside other plates such as smashed burgers and classic fish and chips. The venue also serves the brand’s first-ever breakfast menu. Emma Blackmore, director of The Stable, later told me: ‘We’re excited to have opened in beautiful Padstow, a place loved by so many. We pride ourselves on value for money and exceptional tasting food, and we are delighted that so many locals and visitors are now enjoying our fresh sourdough pizzas, ciders, and new breakfast menu in our Padstow restaurant.” When I started writing about West Country food and drink just over 25 years ago, the idea that you could break a journey in the region to enjoy world-class pizza and award winning ciders on a pretty harbour-side - or pop in to a local brewery to buy some of the best beers in the land - would have been, alas, unimaginable. But these are the sort of treats which can be enjoyed nowadays with very little research or effort on the part of the consumer. And more power to their elbow, says I…

Warm Weather Awakens the UK’s Only Venomous Snake As spring sunshine begins to warm the West Country, adders—the UK’s only native venomous snake—are stirring from their winter slumber. Sightings have already been reported across local hills and heathlands. But despite these appearances, experts are concerned about the species’ long-term future. A few years ago I wrote the following two articles all about adders in the English hills. Adder Decline: A Growing National Concern Conservationists are warning that adder populations are declining across the UK. The primary causes are habitat loss, fragmentation, and the general deterioration of natural spaces. This decline, while potentially reassuring for nervous walkers and pet owners, represents a deeper issue: the vanishing of vital ecosystems. Efforts are now underway to track these elusive reptiles, with adder surveys being conducted nationwide in hopes of better understanding and protecting the species. Cornwall: A Possible Adder Haven While much of the UK sees shrinking populations, Cornwall appears to buck the trend. Experts say this coastal county may be one of the few places where adders are holding their ground. Adders are commonly found in dry heathlands and coastal scrub across Cornwall, meaning that wherever you are in the county, you're likely never far from one. While formal data is still limited, anecdotal evidence suggests local populations remain stable. When Are Adders Most Active—And Most Dangerous? With the arrival of warmer, longer days, the risk of snake bites is generally very low. However, dog walkers and hikers should still remain cautious—especially during the early mornings in spring. Adder behaviour is closely tied to body temperature. In cooler conditions, snakes tend to stay underground. In hot weather, they are fast and alert, often avoiding human contact altogether. But during that in-between period—when temperatures are just beginning to rise—adders may be sluggish and sunbathing in the open. This is when encounters (and potentially bites) are most likely to happen. So, if you're walking in known adder habitats, especially in early spring mornings, it's wise to stay on marked paths and keep dogs on leads. How to Help Monitor Adder Populations in Cornwall There is an ongoing national scheme to monitor adder numbers, and Cornwall plays an active role in this effort. Locals and visitors are encouraged to report adder sightings via the Online Recording Kernow and Scilly (ORKS) website: www.ORKS.org.uk This data contributes to a broader understanding of wildlife patterns across the region and supports conservation initiatives led by professional ecologists. Learn More About Cornwall’s Wildlife For those interested in learning more about Cornwall’s reptile populations—or any other aspect of the region’s diverse wildlife—there are excellent resources available. The Environmental Records Centre for Cornwall and the Isles of Scilly offers expert support and a wealth of ecological data for anyone passionate about local nature. Searching for Adders in the Somerset Hills There’s a solitary man walking slowly across the great heaths of the Quantock Hills with his head well and truly down. He has every reason to be studying the ground carefully—and if he also looks downcast, it’s because it’s hot and there’s not a cloud in the sky. This is no ordinary countryside stroll—Kevin Palmer is conducting an adder survey in Somerset , carefully scanning the undergrowth for signs of movement. Why Hot Weather Isn’t Ideal for Snake Spotting The hot weather, surprisingly, isn't good for spotting snakes in the Quantocks . Once adders warm up, they quickly retreat into the thick vegetation, making them harder to detect. “They don’t have to bask for very long to warm up—and once they’re hot enough they go back into the deep undergrowth where you haven’t got a chance of seeing them,” he explains. Expanding the Adder Survey in Somerset This adder survey, which began with historical data and sightings, has recently expanded. A team of volunteers from a local reptile and amphibian group in Somerset have joined the effort, helping to cover more ground across the Quantock Hills. “Originally we relied on sightings and historical data to pinpoint the approximate areas—and that allowed us to get surveying underway,” he says. “Now we have a volunteer scheme where people come and survey areas where there are unknown densities of adders—they’re looking for either the presence or absence of snakes.” Safe Snake-Handling: Equipment and Expertise Participants are trained in visual identification only—no one is allowed to touch or handle the snakes without proper qualifications and equipment. For those trained in safe adder handling , the tools include a long metal hook and a clear plastic restraining tube. “This is a very good way of restraining the snake without doing it any damage—it also ensures there is minimal hands-on for the person doing it,” he explains, demonstrating the method on a young female adder near Wilmott’s Pond. The snake is briefly captured, weighed, and then released—stress-free and unharmed. Why Protecting Adders Matters But why go to all this trouble for a creature so often misunderstood or feared? “The whole reason for doing the survey is to inform the local species action plan. It's acknowledged that the adder is a declining species in the UK and deserves protection—our data contributes toward informing those policies.” Better land management practices are being introduced as a result. Instead of large-scale burning (known as swayling), habitat managers now create mosaic habitats —patchy landscapes that provide refuge and movement corridors for reptiles like adders. “If you burn a large area, the adders get exposed to predators—it’s a real problem because they tend to be quite faithful to a particular site. They’ll stick to it rather than colonise other areas.” The Problem of Habitat Fragmentation A nationwide study is also underway to examine how isolated adder populations are struggling. Fragmentation limits dispersal and can lead to inbreeding. “There tend to be isolated fragmented patches where adders live—and if there are no dispersal opportunities, you do get inbreeding,” he says. “Once we know an area contains adders, we can administer appropriate techniques.” So far, the survey has identified four separate adder colonies in the central Quantocks, with an estimated 40 to 50 snakes. Do Adders Bite? Snake Safety in the UK You can’t talk to a snake expert without asking the obvious: has he ever been bitten? “No, I’ve not been bitten yet—I am waiting for it,” he says with a sigh. “But the whole bite thing does tend to mesmerise the public. Adders won’t bite by choice—they will generally move out of the way. Unless you mess around with them, there shouldn't be much risk.” Still, when working in adder country, it pays to keep your eyes firmly on the ground.

Discover a stunning spring walk in the Quantock Hills AONB With Easter arriving this month, now’s the perfect time to extol the virtues of staying at home — especially if your home patch happens to be the West Country. Easter falls late this year, and if the weather is even halfway decent, West Country roads will be heaving with holiday traffic. So, what better time to enjoy the pleasures of your local area? And what a patch we have. I’ve just spent a lovely weekend in West Cornwall, which always offers an abundance of things to do, taste, and explore — but I live in West Somerset, a region that arguably boasts an even richer variety of local treasures. From the vast wilderness of Exmoor to the rugged Bristol Channel coast and the secret Brendon Hills, West Somerset is a walker’s paradise. But my latest springtime adventure took me to the majestic Quantock Hills , and it ticked all the seasonal boxes. A Classic Quantock Walk: Bicknoller, Weacombe & Staple Plain Loop This particular hike — the Bicknoller, Weacombe, and Staple Plain circular walk — was one of the very first and very last routes I covered during my long-running Westcountry newspaper series, Hesp’s Hikes , later renamed Classic Walks . Over the years, I’ve written more than 670 hiking articles, covering over 3,350 miles and snapping more than 10,000 photos. I did much the same again when the series continued under its new title — so I’d like to think I’m qualified to recommend a walk or two. And I can confidently say this Quantock Hills walk is among the very best short hikes in Somerset. It begins in the impossibly charming village of Bicknoller and offers both the intimate magic of deep wooded coombes and the breathtaking expanse of wide panoramic views. For me, there was also the added joy of glimpsing the cottage where I spent the first six years of my life — a view from above that stirred deep, personal memories. Starting Point: Bicknoller Coombe Your gateway to this Quantocks AONB hike is Bicknoller Coombe, tucked into the northwest edge of the hills. It’s best to park by the village hall in Bicknoller — space is tight further up the lane. From there, a short walk leads to a gate and a left-turn footpath that skirts the moorland towards neighbouring Weacombe. This part of the trail is especially rewarding in spring. You’ll enjoy expansive views across the Vale of West Somerset , and if you’re lucky, you might even spot wild red deer. Weacombe and the Ridge Weacombe Valley announces itself with the dramatic erosion typical of the red sandstone Quantocks. The steep coombe climbs alongside a stream, eventually forking at its upper end. Take the right-hand path and ascend to Bicknoller Post — a landmark post standing at the junction of multiple valleys and ridges. From here, you’re on the main Quantocks ridge, offering what may be the best 360-degree views in the entire region. To the west lies the mighty Exmoor and Dunkery Beacon. Look south and east to take in the Blackdowns, West Dorset’s ridges, the Levels, and the Mendip Hills. Even the vast construction site of Hinkley Point C is visible — a curious modern contrast to the timeless landscape. Turn around, and the Bristol Channel unfurls to the north, with the Welsh coast and its high hills beyond. The scale and drama of the scenery here are simply unmatched. The Descent: Bicknoller Coombe or Thorncombe Barrow Continue south along the ridge, keeping right at various track junctions. Eventually, look out for the steep-sided Bicknoller Coombe once again. You have two options here: Descend directly into the coombe, tracing your steps back to the starting point. Continue a little further along the ridge, then descend via Thorncombe Barrow — a bold spur offering even better views as you drop toward the village. On a clear day, you might glimpse a steam train winding through the West Somerset countryside en route from Bishops Lydeard to Minehead. It’s from here I spotted my childhood home, nestled quietly in the rolling folds near Stogumber . At the base of the coombe, I’d highly recommend stopping at the Bicknoller Inn for a well-earned drink or meal — a perfect way to end this unforgettable Quantock hike . Why This Walk Belongs on Your Easter Itinerary Simple, not too taxing, and absolutely brimming with beauty — this route is a shining example of why hiking in Somerset is one of the best free things you can do this Easter. No long drives, no crowds, no fuss. Just you, the hills, and spring in full bloom. Full stop. End of argument. Fact File: Bicknoller to Bicknoller Circular Walk, Quantocks Walk Type: Circular Location: North Quantocks AONB, West Somerset Start Point: Village Hall Car Park, Bicknoller Route: Bicknoller → Weacombe Valley → Bicknoller Post → Bicknoller Coombe Distance: 4 miles Difficulty: Easy to moderate Map Needed: Ordnance Survey Explorer 140 Refreshments: Bicknoller Inn (end of route) Highlights: Panoramic views from Quantock ridge Hidden coombes and red sandstone valleys Wildlife sightings (red deer) Optional steam train views Historic West Somerset scenery

A Stand Against the Virtual World Hesp Out West is based on something I call the Campaign for Real Experiences (CARE) , vaguely inspired by CAMRA, the Campaign for Real Ale . More and more, people are finding themselves living in a virtual world —we spend too much time on screens and rely on digital technology for almost everything. There’s even news of a device that will allow you to taste or smell something you see on your screen , like a steak sizzling in a pan. Whatever next? Soon, we won’t need to leave our sofa. The entire experience I am about to describe comes thanks to something called “EU Fab 6 - Savour the PDO and PGI Wines and Deli Meats from Europe”, Campaign co-funded by the European Union - Reg. (UE) 1144/2014 I believe that CARE is going to become a thing . As robots take over, we humans will crave real-life experiences —simple, tangible activities that bring genuine joy. Whether it’s a fabulous coastal walk, like the one we enjoyed last week at Zennor , or visiting a bustling food market , these moments will become all the more precious. That said, there is always a middle ground . It’s not all black and white. Sometimes, new technology can actually enhance an authentic experience —and here’s an example of what I mean… The Best of Both Worlds: A Digital Window into Italian Food As a Guild of Food Writers member , I was invited to a webinar focusing on Italy’s traditional cured meats, or salumi . Being a greedy blighter, I was particularly interested because the organisers promised to send out a box of samples . So, I joined the three webinars on my iPad and found myself engrossed in talks by Augusto Cosimi , from the Consorzio Italiano tutela Mortadella Bologna . Not only was he an expert in his field, but his passion for the subject was infectious. Listening to one of the world’s leading specialists while sampling the sublime, savoury morsels made for a truly immersive experience . I was able to ask questions, learn about the history of these products, and enjoy the flavours all at once . What could be better? The Italian Delicatessen: A Shrine to Gastronomy Most food lovers will agree that a good Italian delicatessen is a treasure trove . We have some great examples here in the UK, but if you want to see a living shrine to a country’s love of food, you need to visit one in Italy . Walk into an Italian deli, and you’ll be met with a feast for the senses — Cured meats like Parma ham, salami, and mortadella. Cheeses such as Parmigiano Reggiano DOP, Pecorino Romano DOP, and Gorgonzola. Artisan breads and baked goods like focaccia, taralli Pugliesi, and grissini Torinesi. Great bowls of olives and preserved specialities , such as sott’olio vegetables (artichokes, mushrooms, and peppers in olive oil) and sun-dried tomatoes . Shelves stacked with delicacies like tonno in olio d’oliva and bottarga di muggine (salted, dried, and pressed mullet roe) . A vast range of different pasta shapes and rice . I often find myself wondering why every town in the UK doesn’t have a dedicated shop showcasing our own traditional delicacies. Yes, we have Stilton, Melton Mowbray pork pies, Cornish pasties, and Craster kippers , but where are the passionate advocates, the Augusto Cosimis of British food? Exploring Italy’s Signature Salumi Mortadella: More Than Just a Pink Sausage Mortadella is often misunderstood outside of Italy , with some comparing it to Spam. But do not ever let an Italian hear you say that! Mortadella is a work of carnivorous art , requiring high-quality pork, precise fat distribution, and an exacting cooking process . Unlike salami, which is cured raw, mortadella is gently cooked at a controlled temperature , giving it a silky texture and rich, delicate flavour . The best versions incorporate pistachios or black peppercorns for an extra layer of taste. While industrially made versions have tarnished its reputation outside Italy, in Bologna, mortadella remains a revered delicacy , best enjoyed in paper-thin slices with fresh baked bread or dry crackers . Look out for the red and yellow PDO label , which guarantees authentic quality. It’s not even hard to find—only last week, I spotted authentic PDO mortadella in a well-known German supermarket in my local town . Zampone & Cotechino Modena: A Taste of Tradition Far harder to find in the UK are zampone and cotechino Modena . I’d seen them hanging in Italian delis before, looking like mysterious, dismembered appendages , but I had no idea what they were until Augusto enlightened me. Both are seasoned, finely minced pork encased in natural skin , but each has its own character. Zampone is a deboned pig’s trotter filled with pork stuffing , a dish born of necessity during the siege of Mirandola in the early 16th century . Cotechino is similar but comes in a more conventional sausage casing . Both have a rich, almost gelatinous texture —not for everyone, but I loved them. They reminded me of a pink, meatier hog’s pudding . Traditionally simmered for hours , most are now pre-cooked and only need 20 minutes in hot water before serving . In Italy, they’re a New Year’s Eve staple , served with lentils, symbolising prosperity for the year ahead. Salamini Italiani alla Cacciatora DOP: The Hunter’s Salami A classic Italian cured sausage , known for its compact size and delicate flavour . Cacciatora means “hunter’s style” , as these small sausages were a staple for hunters needing portable protein . Made across central and northern Italy , they use finely ground pork, salt, black pepper, and plenty of garlic , aged slowly to develop a mild yet savoury flavour . They’re perfect on an antipasto platter with cheese, olives, and rustic bread . A Lesson in Sustainability If I were ever to go vegetarian for sustainability reasons, cured meats would be one of the things I missed the most . But, ironically, they are some of the most sustainable meat products —using every part of the animal, in line with the Italian philosophy of “niente si butta via” (nothing goes to waste) . And all of this, I was able to experience thanks to a truly authentic, yet digitally enhanced, food adventure .

Dawson City: A Journey to the Heart of Yukon Territory A cold day in the UK recently reminded me of the time I drove up to Dawson City from Whitehorse - that’s a long six-hour adventure in the Yukon snow and ice, I can tell you. The Allure of Dawson City: Beyond the Gold Rush In winter Dawson City is fairly quiet, with a population of 800 - quiet, that is, unless it happens to be Yukon Quest week. Then the town goes a bit wild - and I followed suit, which is why I can't recall too much about it. Save, that is, for drinking the Sourtoe Cocktail which, alas, is a thing you have to do in Dawson. It is a real mummified toe which is kept in sea-salt and unwrapped for the ceremony - the barman reads some kind of proclamation and you knock back the vodka (or spirit of your choice) containing the toe, which must touch your lips at least once in order for you to be awarded a certificate. You can look up the legend online, I won't bother repeating the tale about the frostbitten gold miner who lost the original appendage because I thought it was all completely daft. But I did it anyway, because that's the sort of crazy town Dawson City is. The place where the Klondike River meets the mighty, muddy stream that gives the territory its name. Most people will have heard of this enigmatic town… You can’t say the name without thinking of gold rush tales and all that backwoods survival stuff. But put aside the touristy talk and the romantic ideas, and what’s left is a very real and gritty, workaday community. A place that all too obviously requires a certain hardiness. A community that, I felt, most certainly has a definite sense of place. Experiencing Dawson City in Winter: A Unique Adventure As I say, we arrived after a very lengthy winter drive, weary from the long and winding road. It was a journey that outlined for us, in the most stark and mind-boggling way, just how incredibly vast the Yukon is. The journey itself defined the vastness of this extraordinary region. After that icy journey from Whitehorse, I was very glad to see it, with its lights beginning to sparkle in the winter gloaming down there in the river valley. A compact grid playing host to buildings that, while many are restored, seem to retain the patina of age. Dawson has a very noticeable sense of bygone days and you get the feeling that some of these structures have borne witness to plenty of life. Dawson City's Gritty Reality: Life in the Far North The snowbound streets, some still of the old boardwalk style, do conjure a slight frisson of the past. The aging shops, hotels, diners and saloons are not museum pieces but, for the most part, functional homes and businesses. Of course you can see that tourism does exist, but you very much get the feeling that it’s not the sole purpose for the town's modern-day existence. There’s a certain quiet to Dawson, perhaps aided and abetted by the vast empty spaces around it. The river flows, slow and wide in summer - I am told it acts as a constant presence - while in winter it looks for all the world like a great wide motorway made of solid white ice. The surrounding hills and their forested slopes do a good job of enclosing the town - they offer a natural boundary between its streets and the great void beyond. Even in winter when it’s minus 40c, you can walk out of the built-up area in minutes and find yourself deep in the silent white woods. Dawson City's Community Spirit: Life in a Remote Location We did just that and crossed the river to climb a sizeable hill so we could look back down on the town. Strolling back, freezing cold, we could sense the history of the place - it is certainly there, but it’s not hammered home. You can visit the preserved buildings and the museums and learn about the gold rush era and its characters and their hardships - but from what I could make out, the town doesn’t seem to dwell on its past. Why should it? The place isn’t a theme park but very much a workaday place - one which obviously offers a lifeline to the people who live out there in the endless hills and forests beyond. The population is a mix. There are families who’ve lived here for generations - and there are plenty who have been attracted by the romance and the history - along with an even greater number who’ve come north seeking a different way of life. You get the distinct feeling there’s a strong sense of community, which you kind of expect in a place located out on the extremes. The kind of places where shared experience becomes an important fact of life. The shared experience here, of course, being all about sub-zero temperatures and vast empty distances. So you get the impression that people look out for one another, that they all have a mutual understanding of the challenges that such a remote location can thrust into everyday life. Seasonal Changes in Dawson City: Embracing the Extremes Long, dark winters and short, intense summers. The extremes are a given. The river freezes, the ground hardens and the snow covers everything. The spring thaw brings a rush of life, a brief burst of activity before the long days of summer. Eating and Drinking in Dawson City: A Relaxed Atmosphere As the sun went down, we found some wonderful places to eat and to drink. There’s a certain unpretentiousness to it all. The food is straightforward and the atmosphere is very relaxed - although, as I mentioned at the beginning, it can get a bit boisterous late on a weekend night. There’s certainly no need for airs and graces. You get the sense that people are there to enjoy themselves, to unwind. The Sourtoe Cocktail: A Dawson City Tradition (This section already appears higher up, but is so important it is worth another mention!) …Save, that is, for drinking the Sourtoe Cocktail which, alas, is a thing you have to do in Dawson. It is a real mummified toe which is kept in sea-salt and unwrapped for the ceremony - the barman reads some kind of proclamation and you knock back the vodka (or spirit of your choice) containing the toe, which must touch your lips at least once in order for you to be awarded a certificate… Exploring Dawson City's Historic Charm and Natural Beauty FACT FILE Dawson City, in the heart of Yukon Territory, is located at the confluence of Klondike and Yukon rivers. A historically significant settlement, site of the Klondike Gold Rush. It’s a compact town plan, many of the old buildings have been restored. Tourism is a component of the economy, but not the sole driver. Surrounding landscape: river, hills, forest - and lots and lots of all three. The geographic isolation is Dawson’s defining characteristic.The gold rush era is very well documented, but not overly dramatised. The town integrates its history into present-day existence. The population is a mix of long-term residents and newcomers, diverse backgrounds.Climate: extreme seasonal variations. Long winters, short summers. River freezing, ground hardening, spring thaw. Seasonal fluctuations dictate activity. Dawson City is not a place for everyone, but I liked it a lot.

The Tale of the Marion G Douglas – Ghost Ship Mystery Strange things can happen at sea. The ocean is not man’s natural habitat – he is already halfway to another world out there on the blue horizon – and, when something untoward occurs, it can seem all the more threatening and surreal amidst the waves. This is one of the most extraordinary stories I uncovered during my time as editor-at-large of the Western Morning News, South West England’s daily morning newspaper - and I repeat it here because I’ve been fascinated by the episode ever since I was told all about the Marion Douglas by an elderly Bryer man called Brian Jenkins. We are perplexed and fascinated by mysteries of the deep. We worry ourselves over things like the Bermuda Triangle , we drool with fear when it comes to sea monsters reaching up from the dark world beneath, and we become obsessed by such things as ghost ships . The story of the Marie Celeste has been fueling imaginations for years - there is something haunting and darkly supernatural about an empty, lifeless ship that has come sailing out of the night. So when my boat-designer brother told me about a single sentence he’d read in an old book - that referred to the “ West Country’s own Marie Celeste ” - I found myself overtaken with a determination to find out more. “All it says,” said John, “Is that the year was 1919 and a schooner called the Marion G Douglas fetched up in Scilly with no one on board.” Many phone calls and much cajoling later, I tracked down the uncanny and somewhat unlikely story of the Marion G Douglas ghost ship . Uncanny, because I cannot imagine how peculiar it must be to spy a ship sailing along with no one on board. Unlikely? Well, the story is extraordinary – but it happens to be true. The Mysterious Arrival of the Marion G Douglas Think what it must have been like for the people of the Scillonian island of Bryher , to spy such a vessel early one November morning in 1919. The First World War had just come to an end, and things were tough for the islanders. Even in far-flung Scilly , the world had been turned upside down for the past half-decade. Europe was now in the grip of a post-war struggle , and money was in short supply. Suddenly here was a mystery ship , plying her aimless way in a light autumnal wind a mile or two north of the island. The islanders saw she was heading for the rocks , but there was not a soul on deck who could steer her off. There was only one thing to do, and that was to launch the island’s two gigs – the Sussex and the Czar – and row out among the rocks and reefs. I reckon that climbing aboard the empty schooner must have taken a little nerve. The men must surely have wondered what horrors they were about to find. Mutilated bodies? Disease? But there were no stricken sailors – no corpses, no damaged human beings – either dead or alive. Nothing but empty bunks and cabins . Yet the boat was shipshape - there was nothing wrong with her steering gear, her masts, or sails. Her cargo of timber was intact. The Vanished Crew – A Maritime Enigma So where was the missing crew ? Such questions must have raced through the minds of the Bryher men - and 84 years later, I found myself asking the same. However, no reference book in my collection could offer a single clue – and an exhaustive search on the normally unbeatable Internet provided not a smidgen of information regarding the ghost ship of the Scillies . Many phone calls later, I eventually got hold of (the now late) Richard Barber , editor of the Tresco Times , who wrote a 160-page hardback book called Tresco Times - The Last Piece of England . Richard told me: “Yes, I know about the Marion G Douglas - in fact, I can’t for the life of me think why I didn’t put the story in my book. Anyway, to find out more you’ll have to talk to a Bryher man . Try Richard Jenkins ...” “Of course I know about the Marion G Douglas ,” said Mr. Jenkins from his home on Bryher . “You can’t grow up on this island without knowing all about her. She supplied the people of Bryher with some much-needed cash after the First World War . A record salvage reward it was at the time – for the islands at least. Kept the people of Bryher going I should think. My grandfather and uncle were involved. But the best man to talk to is Brian Jenkins , who lives over on St Mary’s now. He’ll tell you all about it.” Brian did indeed recall the ghost ship incident in detail, having heard all about it from his father, uncle, and grandfather. “They knew she was abandoned from the start,” Brian told me. “It was quite plain to see no one was on board. No, she wasn’t under full sail. They launched the gigs – there were about eight or nine men in each – 20 were involved altogether. Out they went and boarded her. I suppose it must have been a bit spooky now you mention it – they never knew what they’d find on board. Anyway, she was in good condition , so they put up her sails and brought her in between Bryher and Samson and moored her near Norrard Rocks off Rushy Bay . Later she was in St Mary Roads – I don’t know if it was for three or for six weeks.” Theories and Speculations Surrounding the Ghost Ship I asked Mr. Jenkins if he knew what happened to the schooner’s crew . “They’d apparently experienced some pretty poor weather off the American coast , and they were taken off by a passing steamer,” he replied. “They say she was abandoned 13 days before the Bryher men salvaged her.” By the way, I learned from a different source that her appearance in Scilly effectively scuppered the schooner’s captain from making a fraudulent insurance claim – saying that his ship had sunk . I don’t know if this is true or not, but I’d love to hear from any reader who might know… “I’ve never heard that, all I know is that they were landed in America ” said Brian. “Anyway, the salvage was good news for the islanders - she was a big fore-and-aft rigged schooner of 499 tons and her cargo of timber was all in good condition - so it all helped with the reward. My grandfather, William Edwin Jenkins , and my uncle were the two runners who took her up to Glasgow . ‘ Runners ’ is what they call the men who are put on a boat that’s being towed. They steer the vessel and re-attach the line if it parts – that sort of thing.” Mr. Jenkins concluded: “ £3,300 is what the islanders received for the salvage . That was a lot of money in those days, and I’ve heard it really helped what could have been hard times .” So, no big mystery after all. Unless you ask how a heavily laden ship with her sails stowed could be blown across the Atlantic in just 13 days…

Discover one of the Best Scenic Drives in the Lake District If you are planning a drive around the south-western reaches of the Lake District - as I was while staying at the amazing and exceptional hotel, The Samling - the following route makes for a thrilling an scenic drive. I started by driving north along Lake Windermere to Ambleside and then turning left on the A593 to head west towards Coniston Water. I’d recommend taking the lane that hugs the eastern shore of this lake. It’s a far more scenic and rewarding option than the main road that runs along the opposite bank, offering stunning glimpses of the lake through the trees, and occasional pull-ins where you can stop and admire the view. This quiet, winding route sets the tone for what is to come: a journey through some of the wildest, loneliest, and most breathtaking landscapes in England. Journey Through Remote Landscapes But we must rejoin the A593 and follow it south-west - it will eventually bring you to the tiny hamlet of Lower Hawthwaite, where the real adventure begins. Here, you can turn north onto a network of narrow, twisting lanes that climb into one of the least-visited areas of the Lake District. These lanes are often steep, occasionally rough, and certainly not for the faint-hearted, but the reward is thousands of acres of solitude and a sense of stepping back in time. The land here is rugged, unspoiled, and feels wonderfully remote—ideal for those who want to escape the crowds and experience the Lake District at its wildest. Stickle Pike and the Vast Wilderness of Ulpha and Birker Fells From here, the drive over Stickle Pike is nothing short of spectacular. The narrow road clings to the contours of the land, undulating over the hills with breathtaking views at every turn. Soon, you ascend into the vast, empty wilderness of Ulpha and Birker Fells, where the sense of isolation becomes even more profound. This stretch of road, taking you west and then north into Eskdale, is one of the wildest I’ve ever travelled in England. You can drive for miles without seeing another soul, save for the odd shepherd, fell-walker or a few scattered sheep staring at your intrusion into their domain. Driving Tips for Steep and Narrow Mountain Roads Before I go any further, a word of warning: if you are a nervous driver or uncomfortable on narrow, steep, and sometimes tricky roads, this is not the route for you. The lane twists and turns unpredictably, often with precipitous drops to one side and no safety barriers to offer reassurance. But for those who are confident behind the wheel , this is a thrilling drive, filled with dramatic scenery and a wonderful sense of remoteness. Conquering the Hardknott Pass – One of Britain’s Steepest Roads Once you’ve made your way down into the valley of Eskdale, the landscape softens slightly, though it remains gloriously rugged. The river Esk meanders through a broad valley, flanked by steep hillsides and dotted with charming old farmsteads. It’s a beautiful place, and in summer, you might be tempted to pause for a picnic beside the river or even a paddle in its clear, cold waters. But the real challenge lies ahead: the infamous Hardknott Pass. Driving east from Eskdale, the road suddenly begins to climb, and before you know it, you’re tackling one of the steepest and most treacherous roads in Britain. This is not a route for the underpowered car or the faint-hearted driver. With gradients reaching 33% (or 1 in 3 in old money), this is about as steep as roads get in this country, and there are hairpin bends that require both skill and solid nerves. I’ve driven some tough roads in my time, but this is up with the most challenging. For Mrs Hesp, who was gripping the seat with white knuckles as we crested the icy summit in January, it was an unforgettable (if slightly terrifying) experience. Superb Views from Wrynose Pass and Little Langdale If you survive the ascent, the descent is no less thrilling, dropping steeply into the deep valley of Wrynose Bottom, where for a moment, the landscape feels almost Alpine in its grandeur. But don’t get too comfortable—almost immediately, you’re climbing again, this time over the Wrynose Pass. While slightly less steep and intimidating than Hardknott, it still demands full concentration, particularly if you meet another vehicle on the way up. Despite the challenges, it’s an absolutely stunning drive, rewarding you at every turn with views that stretch for miles over the fells. By the time you descend Wrynose Pass, you will have covered some of the most exhilarating and remote miles in England, but the landscape now begins to soften. As the road winds into Little Langdale, the ruggedness gives way to a more pastoral charm. Here, the fields are greener, the valleys more sheltered, and the roads slightly easier to navigate. Passing Skelwith Bridge, you soon find yourself entering the delightful town of Ambleside, a place that feels almost bustling after the wild terrain you’ve just conquered. With its welcoming pubs, outdoor shops, and proximity to Lake Windermere, it makes an excellent place to rest and reflect on the drive. I stayed at the Rothay Manor in Ambleside which is a superb hotel and one which I’ll be reporting on in another article.

There will be many people reading this newspaper who love their own patch; the place where they were born and bred or the location where they’ve chosen to spend their lives. The problem is that you can become a bit snooty about other areas, like I did as a youngster when I had difficulty in understanding how anyone could feel any kind of affinity for any other part of Somerset. Childhood Memories and Early Misconceptions About the Somerset Levels I lived - and still live - in hill-bound West Somerset, but my grandfather came from the dead flat part of the county. When I was a boy he had a sister who still resided there and every now and again there’d be a family trip to see Great Aunt Queenie on The Somerset Levels . I used to feel depressed by the idea that anyone could live in a place that seemed so dreary and… Well, flat. Rediscovering the Somerset Levels Through Walking Back then my brothers and I would ignore the huge skies mirrored by the great sheets of water in winter, and the vast flocks of birds which lived (and live) between these two all-embracing elements which are much diminished in hill-country. We could only relate to the absolute boredom of a Sunday afternoon spent among God-fearing Non-Conformist Christians. A Glimpse into Rustic Life: Memories of Great Aunt Queenie Moreover, Queenie’s little cottage was what you’d call “rustic” - so much so that if I were to go into a schoolroom today and describe the way she lived, no youngster would believe that anyone alive in the 21st Century could possibly remember such a “medieval” scene. Talk about minimalist. There was nothing, absolutely nothing, designed for comfort. The two-up-two-down had bare floors and only a few bits of basic wooden furniture. There was no electricity, water came from a well in the garden. Poor Aunt Queenie… Her hand was chopped off in an industrial accident in a cheese factory, but she still managed to play the organ at Aller church. Falling in Love with the Somerset Levels: A Writer’s Revelation I was remembering all this decades later when I got a job writing weekly walks for the regional newspapers. An editor asked me to make sure the entire region would be represented - and with some reluctance I realised I’d have to develop some hikes in and around the Somerset Levels . And guess what? I fell in love with the place. The Unique Charm of the Somerset Levels Landscape There is something unique and special about this plain and its peat bogs. Something fascinating about the fact that, until relatively recently, it was nothing but an inland sea. Located in the very heartland of the South West peninsula, this flat, rich, alluvial place of pastures gave Somerset its old-fashioned name, “ Land of the Summer People .” The Agricultural Heritage of Somerset: From Transhumance to Cheddar Cheese It played a part in that most ancient of all human endeavours - the act of transhumance - or the taking of grazing herds and flocks from winter to summer pasture. No wonder the world’s most famous cheese (or the system of making Cheddar cheese ) was developed on the edge of this fertile zone where the grass seemed to grow on nature’s steroids. Hidden Treasures: Why the Somerset Levels Are Overlooked The Levels might not be the Westcountry’s most secret destination, but they are, arguably, the most overlooked. Both the main rail and road links in and out of the far South West pass right across the plain, but comparatively few visitors leap off a train or leave the motorway. They are missing out - the dead-flat polders hide wonderful landscapes which are just as worthwhile visiting as any cove, national park or high moorland they’ll find towards the setting sun… Wildlife Wonders: Starling Murmurations at Ham Wall Of course, the place has become better known in recent years. The RSPB reserves alone have put The Levels on the map - and the winter starling murmurations at places like Ham Wall are now much-celebrated wildlife events. Exploring Langport: A Trendy Transformation in Somerset Then there are the charming towns and villages with their Flemish-influenced architecture . I do not recall Langport being much to write home about when I was working as a young reporter in Somerset 50 years ago, but now it’s a trendy bustling place with smart cafes and shops and even its own community solar-powered cruise boat which plies its way up and down the River Parrett in the summer. Uncovering Somerset’s Stories: Floods, Festivals, and Fascinating Characters Mention of him reminds me of the countless other stories I’ve covered, walks I’ve enjoyed and characters I have encountered on the Somerset Levels during my journalistic career. The Great Somerset Floods of 2013/14: A Personal Account One of the main news events, of course, was the dreadful flooding in 2013/14 when a great swathe of the area turned into England’s largest temporary lake. Indeed, one of the strangest journalistic adventures I ever had was when a local resident called Michael Brown came to collect us in a boat at Thorney , more than 20 miles from the sea. Environmental Concerns: The Burrowbridge Choke-Point and Flood Prevention Later, during the immediate aftermath of the floods, Glastonbury Festival’s Michael Eavis and I walked across The Levels to see the place where the Rivers Tone and Parrett meet. According to locals it was this un-dredged choke-point which had been partly responsible for the great floods of 2013-14. Celebrating Somerset’s Eccentric Characters and Cultural Heritage People and places… The Levels were just a small part of the huge South West patch I covered as a newspaper feature writer, but they did always seem to play host to a treasure trove of humanity, as well as stories of environmental interest. The Art of Pottery: Remembering John Leach and His Legacy One of my favourites was my old friend, the late John Leach . The excellent Leach Pottery is still open for business and run by his family and colleagues - but I have memories of long philosophical chats in the kitchen, and of walks around Johnny’s own private nature reserve. Aller Walk: A Scenic Hike Through Somerset’s Heartland Many are the times I’ve enjoyed on The Levels since the days when I used to think it was a dreary kind of place best avoided. And I have just found a copy of the very first newspaper hike I did in the area, which is what reminded me of dear, long-departed Great Aunt Queenie… Aller Walk Route Details Basic Hike: From Oath on the bank of River Parrett , north-east along footpath to Aller Church . Then north-west along Aller Drove to Pathe Bridge , taking footpath on the left to return along Sowy River to the car. Recommended Maps: Explorer 140 (Quantock) and 128 (Taunton). Distance and Terrain: Four miles, easy going (especially when dry).

If there is one good friend capable of doing a great deal of the heavy-lifting for the home-cook over the festivities, it is cheese. Wonderful, versatile, delicious, easy-to-serve cheese. Or, “preserved sunshine”, which is the way I’ve heard several cheesemakers describe this amazing dairy product down the years. From Sunshine to Cheese: Nature’s Alchemy Sunshine makes the grass grow, we can’t eat it but cows can and so we take their milk. Alas, it will not last long unless we preserve it in some way, but that process - that extraordinary metamorphosis - sees a white liquid turned into solid blocks of gold. Which, surely, is a kind of alchemy? Cheese: The Effortless Star of Festive Feasts And particularly good news for home-cooks and those in charge of overseeing hospitality at this time of year - because, while you can do so much with cheese, it is also capable of playing a leading role with very little effort required. The main Christmas dinner dish, for examples, takes hours to prepare - but a well thought-out cheeseboard, well presented, can be the work of minutes. And a really good one, complete with pickles, artisan-made crackers, chutneys, fruits and preserves, is capable of inspiring the same amount of pleasure and applause as anything else you put on the table. Catering for Every Guest: Cheese for All Tastes And who doesn’t like cheese? Yes, there are a few - but then, there are so many types of cheese available nowadays it should be possible to even keep everyone, even a vegan, happy. I tasted some very passable plant-based “cheeses” being developed at The Food Works in Weston-Super-Mare not long ago. The Swiss Cheese Connection: A Taste of the Alps But it is, of course, the ‘real deal’ that does it for me. And many of my favourite cheeses come from places like the Alps where you couldn’t easily grow or harvest arable crops anyway, so there can be no environmental arguments over using the steep land in more planet-friendly ways. I have met ecologists in Switzerland who have shown me how the low-stocking regimes preferred by local dairy farmers are enormously important to the health of the natural environment. No grazing cows, no swathes of wild-flowers… Simmental and Emmental: Cheese from the Heart of Switzerland The best Swiss cheeses are among the finest in the world. A farmer in the Simmental area once took me around his winter barns, set deep in snow high on the mountain, and showed me the big dry loft where great clouds of sweet smelling hay were being stored loose. A computer-controlled machine pushed the required amount off the edge of the loft a couple of times each day and it would fall among happy cows who wolfed it down with great enthusiasm. Just like I wolfed down the resultant cheese with enthusiasm. The farmer, Ueli Tritten and his wife Hedi, claimed you could taste the floral fragrance in their hand-made gold-medal-winning cheeses, and you really could. Indeed, with a bit of coaching you could tell the difference between the cheeses made in summer off fresh mountain herbage, and the winter stuff created from their carefully made ‘haylage’. Last winter I visited a rather beautiful part of Switzerland where they make Emmental cheese. To celebrate this delightful cheese, a special centre has been created in the heart of the region to tell the story of this famous cheese. Discover the Emmentaler Visitor Centre The Emmentaler Visitor Centre offers a comprehensive look into the history, production, and cultural significance of this particular form of ‘preserved sunshine’. There are interactive exhibits, cheese-making demonstrations, and of course, cheese tasting. The place has, not surprisingly, become a significant tourist attraction. The History of Emmental Cheese Emmental, known for its large holes and distinct flavour, originates from the Emme Valley in the Canton of Bern - and dates back to the early 13th century. The cheese was first named in a document in 1293, but its recipe - and the unique production techniques employed to make it - were developed much earlier. The holes, often referred to as 'eyes', are created by the release of gases by bacteria used during the fermentation process. These bacteria consume the lactic acid in the cheese and release carbon dioxide gas, which forms bubbles. The size and number of the holes are considered a sign of quality and are carefully regulated during the cheese-making process. A Somerset Perspective: The Revival of British Cheese Strange... A Somerset lad born and bred, banging on about cheeses from overseas when this part of the world has some of the best dairy produce to be found anywhere on the planet. Some of our cheddars, for example, (Quickes’ clothbound mature, to name but one) can genuinely be counted as some of the best in the world today. But it wasn’t always like that. In the 1950s, 60s and 70s it was if we British were determined to totally destroy our cheese heritage by industrialising the living daylights out of it. The huge, overly salted, rubbery blocks of my youth are best forgotten. The Swiss, the French, the Italians, and so on, never did that. Or didn’t do it on the same all-engulfing scale, anyway. But now we’ve more than caught up. Today, more cheeses are made in the UK than even France. Which is saying something. We have over 750 cheeses at the latest count and as far as I know there is not a county that doesn’t boast at least one superb artisan-made example. The Festive Cheeseboard: A Christmas Tradition No wonder a festive cheeseboard can be such a wonderful thing. And something capable of lasting through Christmas right to the other side of New Year. The collection I put together earlier this week is still going strong, although serious dents have been made and may require a little refurbishing by the time we sing Auld Lang Syne. Sharpham Dairy: The Star of My Festive Cheeseboard A largish portion of it features cheeses from Sharpham, the UK’s first B Corp cheese dairy, based near Totnes. The team has received some outstanding accolades, including a coveted 3-star Great Taste Award for Cremet and multiple golds for their celebrated mixed milk Rushmore cheese, as well as beloved classics like Sharpham Brie and Ticklemore. A family-run business led by Greg and Nicky Parsons, Sharpham Dairy has everything you need for a perfect festive feast, pairing their artisanal cheeses, chutneys and crackers with a range of Devon-made produce that’s ideal for sharing. For some years now I have been giving my son, who lives outside the region, a Sharpham subscription box and, because he likes the cheese so much, it has become his annual Christmas present. Each box contains a curated selection of cheeses, crackers and condiments, delivered quarterly to the recipient’s door. The boxes feature three of Sharpham’s multi-award winning varieties, a local guest cheese, Sharpham sourdough crackers, a Sharpham chutney and tasting notes. (All cheeses are available from www.sharphamcheese.co.uk ) Looking Ahead to 2025: The Future of Cheese I wonder what kind of dairy delights 2025 will bring? I’ve been lucky enough to try cheeses of many kinds all around the globe and have even been a judge at the British Cheese Awards. The most surprising place I ever found a treasure trove of different cheeses was in Japan, where the northern island of Hokkaido is a hotbed of dairy-inspired indulgence. Good stuff? Yes, absolutely. Better than our own cheeses? Absolutely not. But very, very, interesting nevertheless. I look forward to more surprises of the “preserved sunshine” kind next year - and hope you readers get to enjoy some too. If you do, please let me know at how@martinhesp.co.uk.

Some of the best ideas are simple and straightforward. Take the selling of freshly prepared food… There is a temptation to offer a wide and extensive menu with the idea that it’s going to both impress and offer a selection which can’t be seen or tasted anywhere else. But is that always a good thing? Not according to one young Westcountry woman. How MasterChef Finalist Kate Attlee Created a Salad Empire . Kate Attlee, a former MasterChef finalist, was thinking about dishes that are both delicious and extremely healthy when pondering the kind of food most of us eat during an ordinary kind of day - and she came up with a simple concept. One that’s so good, it has allowed her to open four delicatessen-style cafes west of the Tamar - a small chain that could easily grow if the concept catches on. And, having sampled the food at Sabzi, I believe it has the potential to do just that. Kate’s basic idea was to develop a series of salad dishes, four of which would be served in a combined helping each day. Inside Sabzi: Fresh, Seasonal Salads That Satisfy and Nourish . Complex and intricate salads, admittedly. Not simple plates of lettuce, cucumber and tomato which so many of us grew up with. The kind of salads which saw her do so well on MasterChef. The salads they eat in countries where the diet is far more healthy than our own. Each Sabzi outlet serves four of these freshly made salads every day, either to eat-in or take-away. And each day, those four salads change, so regular customers never get bored and never see an item that’s been hanging around since yesterday. Why Sabzi’s Seasonal Salads Are a Game-Changer in Healthy Eating . The salads are placed by the server into three different sized bowls (for those eating-in), or recyclable boxes (to take-away). An average serving of the four different offerings will contain a large proportion of the 30 different plant-based foods which are reckoned to be an individual’s recommended weekly intake. Eat a bowlful and you will feel full and happy. When I say full, I mean refreshingly replete - not overloaded or stuffed. The smallest “snack-box” helping of those four salads to take-away costs £5.95 - which is a bargain when a single ham, cheese and pickle sandwich from a well-known chain costs £5.45. And you could add a ladle of Sabzi’s own fabulous dhal for an additional £1. Discover Sabzi’s Signature Dishes: Fresh Salads and Persian Treats . To grab just four of the most recent salads off the Sabzi website, there’s a Cajun spiced roasted local potatoes, New York inspired roasted garlic, pickle, dill, lemon and Greek yoghurt dressing; another containing local savoy cabbage roasted whole with sumac, butter beans, fresh herb chutney and parmesan; a third featuring an Indian inspired slaw with local seasonal veg, mango, chilli, lime and ginger dressing, nigella seeds and coriander; and finally Sabzi’s own chaat (Indian inspired savoury snacks) such as spiced and roasted local cauliflower and chickpeas, sweetcorn, dill and a sweet, hot, sour dressing. There are a few other options, such as the house granola, or the breakfast of Middle Eastern spiced beans, roasted veg, feta and fried egg - as well as a number of sweets like Persian ‘love cake’ or cinnamon and tahini bun, or a Belgian chocolate cookie. I loved the food and I liked the whole vibe at Sabzi’s newest outlet - the light and airy cafe to be found at the Duchy of Cornwall new town, Nansledan, just outside Newquay. From MasterChef to Success: Kate Attlee’s Story of Sabzi Cafés . And I very much enjoyed meeting Kate, the young mother-of-two who set up the business just before the world closed down for Covid. “It was tough,” Kate told me. “We had a tiny shop in Truro, and we tried to keep trading even when everyone was told to stay home. It was challenging, especially since our whole business principle is based on freshness, with a menu that changes every day. But we got through it.” There’s obviously a story behind this impressive young woman - not least being the fact that six years ago she reached the quarter-finalist stages on BBC’s MasterChef. MasterChef Finalist Kate Attlee’s Secret to Healthy, Accessible Dining . Was the experience relevant to building her business? “Absolutely. I’m so grateful I did it. Even now, all this time later, the experience is so valuable. I still get asked about it a lot.” So was she the kind of kid who helped out in the kitchen when she was growing up? “Yes, I was. My dad is Iranian, and my mum’s British. My mum cooked because she had to, but my dad cooked because he loved it. He worked full-time, so he cooked when he could - and looking back, that’s where I learned about creative food. He travelled extensively in India and lived in Spain, so his cooking was this fabulous mix of influences. “We moved around when I was younger, but eventually settled in Cornwall. When I started cooking, I wanted to learn more about Iranian cuisine, and it became a way for me to connect with my heritage. I’d cook, and my dad would tell me if it was how he remembered it. It was a learning process. But, I’m self-taught when it comes to cooking. I did train in high-end service, though. I started in London, at places like the River Cafe, focusing on Michelin-star service. That was my training ground. “At Sabzi, I’ve tried to bring together that focus on both exceptional food and exceptional service. I want our food to be accessible, but I also want people to feel valued when they come in. It’s all about community for us, and we stay open all year round.” So where had the idea for the business come from? “It was after I had my children. My husband and I lived in London for a bit, then moved back to Cornwall. I was at home with the babies, and I started cooking more and more - that’s when I launched a supper club. It was Iranian food, and we had to carry all the furniture out of the (small) house to fit trestle tables in. That was my first real taste of cooking for others. “My first place had an open kitchen - I wanted to cook, and I wanted to serve, so I designed it so I could do both. Sabzi grew out of that. We started with four dishes every day, which changed daily - and one hot dish, as well as my Persian love cake, and different cakes and pastries. That core menu hasn’t changed much in five years. Sabzi Cafés: How Seasonal, Fresh Ingredients Build a Community . “We work seasonally, which is really important. We plan our menu each week based on what vegetables are coming out of Cornwall. The menu changes all the time, but the style remains the same: lots of citrus, delicate flavours, fresh herbs. We want our food to be nourishing and exciting, but also accessible. We try to make our lunches affordable - the price doesn’t change based on what’s in the meal. We want people to know they can come in and enjoy something healthy and delicious without worrying about the cost.” The food is so popular that Sabzi now has a range of products which you can find online. “It’s been really exciting - people from all over the UK can now buy our spice blends, our granola, and other products. We also give people tips on how to use them.” From Cornwall to Your Plate: Sabzi’s Journey to Healthy Eating Fame . I tried some of the products like the Sabzi roast blend of spices and they really are delicious (check out https://www.sabzideli.co.uk ). Recipe: Sabzi Carrot Salad Sabzi’s Carrot Salad Recipe: A Taste of Fresh, Healthy Perfection Kate Attlee says: “I love coming up with ways to bring a delicious edge to something we may have eaten many times. Carrots rubbed with a sweet and spiced lemon oil dressing and left to marinade for a few hours really captures the essence of Sabzi. “Use the dressing on other slaws or to flavour warm bulgur wheat. Make double and keep a jar in the fridge - I suspect you’ll find many ways to use it.” INGREDIENTS — SERVES APPROX. 6 PEOPLE 1.5kg of your chosen carrots, grated or julienned Fresh coriander (1 large bunch from the supermarket is perfect) Nigella seeds (a sprinkling) DRESSING 1 tsp ground coriander 1.5 tsp ground sumac Pinch of chilli flakes 1.5 tsp cumin seeds 2.5 tsp garam masala 200 ml lemon juice (bottled is fine) 200 ml your oil of choice (olive or a high-quality rapeseed) 90ml agave nectar Generous seasoning with salt and pepper Mix dressing ingredients together in a large bowl. This dressing should have bags of flavour but feel balanced; tangy with enough lemon to slightly ‘cure’ the carrots, but still with a nice sweetness and aromatic spice. Shred the coriander and add to the carrots. Start with half the dressing and a couple of teaspoons of nigella seeds. Mix by hand, really working the dressing into the carrots. Add more dressing if required. Leave to sit for at least 30 minutes before eating.

Introduction: A Tale Rooted in Tradition The Deer Park is a modern reinterpretation of the traditional European fairytale, drawing inspiration from the Brothers Grimm and other notable folklorists. By incorporating timeless motifs from classical folklore, this narrative follows a brother and sister as they navigate adversity, courage, and hope during a harsh winter in their ancient village. The Setting: A Village Steeped in History 🏰 The story unfolds in a medieval village inspired by the historical town of Dunster in Somerset. It is midwinter, and the cold air is thick over the old Deer Park where the story begins. The village children, driven by curiosity and adventure, explore the vast, mysterious park. Their carefree journey, however, takes a dramatic turn when war-planes suddenly roar across the sky, sending the children fleeing into the depths of the forest. Avill’s Journey into the Forest 🌳❄️ In the chaos, Avill, the brother, becomes separated from the group. Alone and lost in the dark, snow-covered woods, he finds shelter by a moss-covered tree. As a winter storm approaches, the eerie sound of the wind begins to transform into something more—whispers that Avill starts to understand, allowing him to communicate with the mystical tree-spirits of the forest. A Magical Adventure Begins Once reunited with his sister, the siblings embark on a journey filled with wonder and peril: Christmas at the Grand Castle: The festivities at the grand castle bring warmth and a brief respite from the cold, offering a glimpse of hope. 🎄 The Big Freeze: The world is plunged into an unrelenting winter, covered in deep, unyielding snow. ❄️ Encounters with Mythical Beings: From a sleeping giant to a peculiar but kind-hearted witch and a mystical hobby horse, the siblings face an array of challenges that test their resilience and resourcefulness. The Threat from Above: The constant presence of war-planes casts a looming shadow, heightening the sense of urgency in their quest. Themes of Hardship, Hope, and Redemption In the tradition of classic fairytales, The Deer Park contains moments of darkness and struggle. The children face the bitter cold of winter and the looming threat of war. Yet these challenges are juxtaposed with powerful themes of resilience, courage, and unwavering hope. The siblings' ultimate mission is to devise a plan that will bring their father safely back from the war. Why Read The Deer Park ? 📚 A Timeless Storytelling Tradition: Readers with an appreciation for folklore and fairytales will be drawn to the blend of familiarity and originality in the narrative. Rich, Evocative Setting: Inspired by real historical locations, the setting immerses readers in a landscape that is both magical and authentic. Universal Themes: Themes of love, family, and hope make this a compelling story for readers of all backgrounds and ages. Discover the Magic of The Deer Park 🌟 Immerse yourself in this evocative tale that seamlessly blends the mystical charm of fairytales with the enduring strength of the human spirit. Whether you are captivated by the enchanting setting or inspired by the siblings' courageous journey, The Deer Park is a story that will leave a lasting impression long after you have turned the final page.

Many years ago we went to live in a rambling old manor house situated in the Brendon Hills. It belonged to my old friend, Sir Edward Malet, and I had lived there before in one of the apartments at the rear of the house. Befriending Sir Edward Malet in a Servant’s Flat That is when I’d befriended the old Knight of the Realm. And I lived there quite happily—in what was a rather small and dingy little flat—which had once been occupied by the servants. It was during my tenure there that I befriended Sir Edward. I used to go down into the main house for a glass or two of whisky once or twice a week, partly because I felt sorry for the old man as he seemed so lonely, and partly because I used to love sitting there listening to his tales. Moving Out After Starting a Family Eventually, after we’d had our son Harry, we moved out to a house down the valley. The flat was too small and damp to house a family. But after a couple of years, Sir Edward’s son phoned from Australia, immediately after the old man’s death, asking if I’d like to return to live in the main manor house. He needed someone the family could trust to move in and keep an eye on the massive old place—and as I’d lived there for a few years without causing any kind of upset or trouble, he thought I’d be the right person. Moving Back to the Manor Right then and there, I did the only astute bit of thinking I’ve ever done. Sir Ned’s son wanted to pay me to live in the place and become a kind of caretaker, fixing anything that needed mending—but I knew full-well that the entire place required a great deal of love and attention and that looking after it properly (as in rebuilding walls and re-laying roof areas) would be a full-time job. I had my own career to look after—so did my wife Sue—so I suggested that we should pay the estate a peppercorn rent (while, of course, looking after all the normal bills) while fixing anything quick and minor, but that if anything major required repairing I’d have to call in the builders. Raising a Family in a Historic Manor House So that was the agreement, and we lived there for 15 years. What a place for the kids to grow up in… Harry had the best of it, with his own indoor football pitch in the ballroom and a kind of race-circuit which he used to belt around on his tricycle. Our daughter less so, in that she was born there but was quite young still when we eventually moved out. Capturing Memories: Returning to the Manor House I took these black and white photographs on the day we started moving back into the manor house after Sir Ned had died.