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  • Black Bee Honey: Bringing the Best of British Honey to Your Table 🍯🐝

    There are times when you come across an idea so good, you wonder why no one has done it before. That was exactly what I thought while standing in a Somerset field recently, listening to an eloquent young man talk about bees and honey. The concept he outlined was simple yet brilliant: There's a lot of honey on supermarket shelves, but much of it isn't as natural as you'd think. Many cheap brands have added sugars, and experts even claim there's more honey sold than bees could possibly produce. Most of what you'll find on those shelves is a blend of EU and non-EU honeys, lacking the quality and character of local varieties. This led me to realize that there is a real need for transparency and quality when it comes to the honey we consume. The Birth of Black Bee Honey The UK produces some of the best honey in the world, often sold in village stores or farm shops. But why should such incredible, properly produced honey be limited to small-scale outlets? Why shouldn't it be available in supermarkets, where most people do their shopping? Paul Webb and Chris Barnes have been asking this question for a long time. Their answer is Black Bee Honey : a Somerset-based company that both produces honey from its own hives and sources top-quality honey from certified beekeepers across the UK. By using an "economies of scale" model and branding the best local honey under one label, Black Bee Honey aims to make this amazing product available to consumers everywhere. Their vision goes beyond just producing and selling honey. Paul and Chris are on a mission to educate people about the benefits of raw, unblended honey and to support local beekeepers who often struggle to compete with large-scale producers. They believe that by bringing attention to the quality and diversity of British honey, they can help revive the industry and ensure that future generations can enjoy the unique flavors of truly natural honey. From London Rooftops to Somerset Fields 🌿 Paul and Chris have a wealth of experience in beekeeping. You may have heard of their first bee-based business, which garnered a lot of media attention as they produced and sold honey from hives across London. It all started with an office conversation 20 years ago, and soon they were caring for over a million bees in the city. "It was a life-changing experience," explains their website www.blackbeehoney.com . "But we were frustrated by the tasteless honey on supermarket shelves. We wanted to share our love of raw, unblended honey with everyone, and that's how Black Bee Honey was born." Their passion led them to join the Bee Farmers' Association , where they realized how fragile the honey industry had become. Many beekeepers were aging, and UK honey production had lagged behind in areas like branding and marketing. Paul and Chris decided it was time to bring real, high-quality honey back into the spotlight. Their journey from London to Somerset wasn't just about location; it was about finding the right environment to grow their business and to connect with other beekeepers who share their values. The move allowed them to focus on expanding their operations and developing relationships with local producers who are equally passionate about ethical beekeeping and sustainability. Raising Awareness for Real Honey and Bees 🐝 "We wanted to support existing suppliers and help the British honey market by raising awareness around the quality of our amazing product," Paul said when we met in a field just outside Bruton, where some of his hives are located. "People often see honey as a generic product in a squeezy bottle, without realizing the depth of flavor that real honey can have." Paul and Chris also wanted to address the environmental challenges facing bees. "We've lost nearly 98% of wildflower meadows since World War Two, which affects bees and other pollinators. Honeybees have beekeepers to help them, but other pollinators are in worse shape. To make a difference, we donate 2% of our turnover to Plantlife , helping to create wildflower meadows. We've funded about 25 acres so far." The environmental aspect of their mission is something that sets Black Bee Honey apart from many other honey brands. By actively supporting biodiversity and the restoration of natural habitats, they are not just creating a product—they are contributing to a movement. Their commitment to sustainability extends to every aspect of their business, from how they manage their hives to how they package their honey. Ethical Beekeeping and Sustainable Practices Black Bee Honey owns some hives, but they also source honey from trusted beekeepers. Their first supplier, based on Exmoor, produces incredible varieties like heather honey , spring soft-set , and summer wildflower honey . Paul explained that each supplier signs a best practices agreement, ensuring ethical treatment of bees and sustainable practices. "Most commercial bee farmers focus on production and don't have time to market their honey. We want to change that by focusing on branding, awareness, and the environmental impact of our business." Currently, Black Bee Honey jars around three tons of high-quality honey each month , available in Holland & Barrett , National Trust gift shops , Ocado , Booths supermarkets , and over 200 independent delis and farm shops nationwide. This growth has allowed them to reach a wider audience, bringing the taste of authentic British honey to more people than ever before. Paul emphasized that ethical beekeeping is at the core of what they do. They work closely with their suppliers to ensure that the bees are treated well and that the honey is harvested in a way that supports the long-term health of the hives. This means avoiding harmful chemicals, minimizing the use of sugar syrups, and never clipping the queens' wings. Aiming for Nationwide Availability Will Black Bee Honey be available in larger supermarkets soon? "That's the plan," Paul said. "We want to make our honey accessible to everyone, not just in farm shops or delis." The journey to expand into larger supermarkets is not without its challenges. Competing with mass-produced, low-cost honey is difficult, especially when many consumers are unaware of the differences in quality. However, Paul and Chris are determined to educate people about the benefits of raw, unblended honey and to show that the extra cost is worth it for both taste and sustainability. After tasting Black Bee Honey, I know I won't be buying the cheap stuff again—not even for cooking. The depth of flavor and richness of properly produced honey is incomparable. But don't just take my word for it. Michelin-starred chef Merlin Labron-Johnson is a huge fan too. He even installed Black Bee's beehives at Osip , his new restaurant outside Bruton. Their honey is now paired with the cheese board on Osip's farm-to-table tasting menu, which I was lucky enough to sample. It was simply amazing. Lunch at Osip: A Culinary Delight 🍮 Would you like to see a man about some honey? That was the message that led me to meet Paul Webb and sample some of the best honey I've tasted in years. I was also treated to an 11-course lunch at Osip, one of the finest meals I've had in ages. Apart from the wonderful honey, what made me happiest was seeing how well we do things here in the West Country. Not only do we have amazing food businesses like Black Bee Honey, but we also have outstanding restaurants that showcase local produce at its best. Chef Merlin Labron-Johnson, a Devon native, is committed to farm-to-fork dining , showcasing the best the region has to offer. The honey featured in a delightful dish of fruit toast with Tunworth cheese and autumn truffle , an experience I won't soon forget. The lunch at Osip wasn't just about the food—it was about the entire experience. Each dish told a story of the region, from the carefully sourced ingredients to the way they were prepared and presented. The beetroot taco topped with baby gem lettuce, smoked eel, hay-baked apple, parsnip, black garlic, and togarashi was a small explosion of surprise and delight. An even smaller dish featuring a salad of Tokyo turnips, smoked almond, and pear was equally capable of inspiring a moment of ecstasy. Another standout was the treacle and ale sourdough with kefir butter, served alongside lamb, merguez, and ewe's milk . Each bite was sensational, highlighting the creativity and skill of Merlin's kitchen team. The pairing of Black Bee Honey with fruit toast, Tunworth cheese, and autumn truffle was a perfect example of how a simple ingredient like honey can elevate a dish to something truly memorable. The atmosphere at Osip was warm and inviting, with a genuine focus on sustainability and community. Paul and Chris's involvement with the restaurant goes beyond just supplying honey—they have helped train the team in the art of beekeeping, ensuring that the hives at Osip are well cared for and that the honey produced is of the highest quality. For more about Black Bee Honey , visit www.blackbeehoney.com . To learn about Osip restaurant , go to www.osiprestaurant.com .

  • Cornish Walks: Cotehele, on the Cornish Bank of the Tamar đŸïž

    A Magical Estate Full of History and Beauty Cotehele is one of those places that draws you back time and again. Nestled on the Cornish bank of the River Tamar, this National Trust property is steeped in natural beauty and rich history. I first discovered Cotehele not on its winding paths but in central London, at the Tate Gallery, where Turner's evocative painting "Crossing the Brook" led me to wonder: where can that be? That very brook is a tributary of the Tamar, not far from Cotehele itself. Since then, I’ve experienced Cotehele in many ways—from flying over the estate at low altitude to arriving by ferry, speeding past it in a salmon-poacher patrol boat, and even walking down from Calstock after taking the train. Each visit has its own charm, but the magic of this place always remains. Getting to Cotehele đŸš—đŸš¶â€â™‚ïž Driving to Cotehele might seem a bit pedestrian after all those adventures, but it is well worth the effort. The lanes down from Gunnislake are narrow and winding, but the destination is worth every twist and turn. Park in the National Trust car park and be sure to visit the historic house and gardens before or after your walk. The estate relies on the support of visitors, so stop by the reception area to get your ticket for the house and gardens. A Walk Through Time Along the Tamar River đŸšŽâ€â™€ïžâ›° One of my favorite routes starts from the riverside. You’ll see a waymarked path leading down to Cotehele Quay – an area of timeless beauty, steeped in history. From the quay, take the short walk to Cotehele Bridge , which crosses the Morden Stream as it meanders through reed beds before joining the River Tamar. The bridge area is a peaceful spot, perfect for watching the gentle flow of the water and hoping to catch a glimpse of a vibrant kingfisher. 🩜 Across the stream, you can find the remains of old lime-kilns , a reminder of the rich agricultural history that once flourished along the Tamar. The acidic soils here needed lime for sweetening, and these kilns were key to that process. Through the Woods to Cotehele Mill đŸŒČ The waymarked path leads through Elbow Wood , a tranquil stretch that eventually crosses a small lane at Newhouses . On the way, you might want to take a detour to visit Cotehele Mill , which requires a National Trust ticket. This restored working mill is a window into the past, with waterwheels turning just as they did centuries ago. Continuing on, you enter Comfort Wood , walking alongside the stream until the path climbs out of the woods and across fields to the hamlet of Newton . From there, I chose to head towards Norris Green and drop into the picturesque Danescombe Valley to see the restored papermill . It’s a fascinating glimpse into an industry that thrived here over 200 years ago, producing brown paper amidst dense undergrowth. Industrial History and Nature Combined âš™ïžđŸŒł Further down the valley, you’ll pass reminders of Cornwall’s industrial past, including old copper mines and the remnants of the Cotehele Consoles and Danescombe Valley Mines . Copper, arsenic, and other minerals were once extracted from these now quiet hills, and today the ruins are home only to bats and the occasional holidaymaker. A highlight of this area is the sawmill , a once-thriving water-powered mill linked to the river by its own tramway. Now lovingly restored by the National Trust, it’s difficult to imagine the once-bustling industry amid the serene surroundings. The Return to Cotehele Quay đŸłâ­ïž As you head back towards Cotehele Quay , be sure to take in the fantastic viewpoint overlooking Calstock and its impressive viaduct. The trail descends past the Chapel in the Wood , a place rich in legend, where a member of the Edgcumbe family once faked his desperate leap into the river to escape his pursuers. 🚀 In contrast to that dramatic escape, I found myself with no desire to leave Cotehele and its beautiful quay. On a warm day, the quay is one of the coolest, most tranquil spots I know. With reeds rustling, trees swaying, and the gentle calls of birds mingling with the river's soft sounds, it’s the perfect place to sit, reflect, and appreciate the deep romance of this estate. Key Highlights of Your Visit to Cotehele: Historic House and Gardens : Don't miss the beautifully preserved house and its enchanting gardens. đŸ°đŸŒ± Cotehele Quay and Morden Stream : A perfect spot for a riverside walk and some birdwatching. Elbow Wood and Comfort Wood : Enjoy a peaceful woodland hike with diverse wildlife. Cotehele Mill and Danescombe Valley : Discover Cornwall's industrial history in these well-preserved sites. Chapel in the Wood : Learn about local legends and enjoy breathtaking views of the river and beyond. đŸš© Plan Your Visit to Cotehele For a unique experience steeped in both nature and history, Cotehele offers a little of everything—from tranquil river walks to fascinating glimpses of Cornwall's past. Make sure you take the time to fully explore this enchanting estate. Visit the National Trust website for the latest opening hours and information about guided tours.

  • Exploring the culinary delights of Marbella

    A short break in Marbella—a surprisingly wonderful town on Spain’s Costa del Sol. Surprising, because to many of us, it has a name for hen parties and that rather boozy world of short breaks which, in reality, is often exaggerated. There’s plenty of that in evidence, but Marbella also has a lot of laid-back charm.  It also has a lot of very good food. Dining on the move in the tapas joints is, of course, one of the town’s must-do activities, although it is a tradition that has changed in recent years. By which we mean, it’s become increasingly monetised.  People who don’t regularly visit Southern Spain might not know this, but some resorts (Marbella is one) have done away with the traditional idea of tapas as a free snack served with a drink and replaced it with a new format borrowed, to some extent, from Japanese sushi bars.  In other words, the small dishes are coded in some way, by a coloured plate or some sort of symbol like a shaped cocktail stick, and each of these will signify a differing band in the price range.   By picking morsels in various bars this way, I enjoyed an extremely varied and delicious dinner over a period of about three hours, which added up to around ÂŁ20, drinks included.  On another night, once I’d joined my journalist friends, we dined at the fantastic Messina Restaurant which is reckoned to one of the best along the entire length of the Costa Del Sol. The Michelin starred location is something of shrine for local gourmands, and I could certainly understand why. Chef Mauricio Giovanini is a disciple of world famous Ferran AdriĂĄ and the fabulous 15-step menu allowed us to try different products, with different cooking techniques using the cutting-edge technology of his kitchen.  It was one of the finest meals I’ve eaten in a long time. I loved the sea urchin with its lick of celery root water; the sweet bread served with creamy lemon stew and spinach; and the Iberian pork with creamy lentils and roasted onion. All this was consumed after we’d had cocktails at the AmĂ re Beach Hotel ’s airy and truly wonderful Belvue Rooftop Bar, admiring spectacular 360Âș views of the Mediterranean, distant North Africa and Marbella’s old town. A Local's Guide to Marbella's Culinary Scene: Food and Drink Without the Hype Marbella's culinary culture goes far beyond the image of flashy beach clubs and extravagant dining experiences. Hidden within this bustling town is a diverse food landscape that reflects Marbella's local traditions, diverse community, and natural bounty.  The Authentic Tapas Experience: Beyond the Tourist Track đŸ· As we’ve outlined already, in Marbella tapas remain a central part of the local dining culture, but it's crucial to look beyond the tourist traps to find the authentic experience. In the old town, known as Casco Antiguo , you can find small, family-run tapas bars where recipes have been handed down through generations. Expect dishes like berenjenas con miel (fried eggplant drizzled with honey) and ensaladilla rusa (a traditional potato salad) served in simple settings. Places like Bar El Estrecho offer a more authentic glimpse into Marbella's tapas culture, where locals gather for a glass of tinto de verano alongside a selection of small plates. Seafood Without the Fanfare: Marbella's Coastal Offerings 🩐 The Mediterranean Sea supplies Marbella with an abundance of seafood, available fresh from the local market or at one of the many chiringuitos (beachside eateries). For those seeking straightforward yet flavourful dishes, look for espeto de sardinas , skewered sardines cooked over an open flame, which is a local specialty best enjoyed with your toes in the sand. If you're interested in exploring the market-to-table experience, visit the Mercado Central de Marbella early in the morning, where you can find vendors selling the day's catch—including sea bass, octopus, and red prawns. The market itself is a sensory experience, with the salt air mingling with the aromas of freshly cut lemons and herbs. Andalusian Cuisine: Seasonal Ingredients in Marbella Marbella's cuisine draws heavily from its Andalusian roots, showcasing the use of seasonal ingredients and traditional preparations. The simplicity of dishes like gazpacho and salmorejo highlight the region's reliance on fresh, local produce. These cold tomato soups are staples in Marbella, especially in the hot summer months, and are often served with garnishes like jamĂłn serrano or hard-boiled eggs. Inland from Marbella, the surrounding Sierra Blanca mountains influence the culinary landscape with locally sourced game, wild mushrooms, and herbs. At smaller restaurants or rural ventas, you'll often find dishes like rabo de toro (oxtail stew) or platos de caza (game dishes) that highlight the rustic flavours of the region. Marbella's Wine and Drinks: From Local Bodegas to Gin Bars 🍇 When it comes to drinks, Marbella presents a blend of tradition and modern trends. Andalusia has a strong wine culture, and Marbella is no exception. The nearby Ronda region is home to several vineyards producing reds, whites, and rosĂ©s that can be sampled at local bodegas or specialty wine shops. For a deeper dive into Marbella's drinks culture, explore the town's vermuterĂ­as where the traditional Spanish aperitif, vermouth, is served on tap—usually accompanied by a tapa. If you're in the mood for something more contemporary, Marbella also has several gin bars, where you can explore Spain's fascination with gin-tonic , a drink served with a careful balance of botanicals and garnishes. Sweet Endings: Marbella's Desserts and Bakeries đŸ« To end a meal in Marbella, head to one of the town's many pastelerĂ­as for a taste of traditional Andalusian desserts. Tarta de Santiago , an almond cake often scented with citrus, and pestiños , fried dough coated in honey, are favourites among locals. The influence of Moorish flavours is evident in these desserts, with ingredients like honey, almonds, and spices often playing a central role. For something a little different, try churros con chocolate at a local churrerĂ­a , especially during the cooler months. This indulgent combination of crispy fried dough and thick hot chocolate is a popular choice for a late breakfast or an afternoon treat. Embrace the Local Rhythm: Eating in Marbella Dining in Marbella is as much about the rhythm of life as it is about the food itself. Meals are leisurely, and eating out is a social affair. The bustling restaurants along Plaza de los Naranjos offer an opportunity to sit back, enjoy a glass of locally produced wine, and observe the steady flow of life around you—without the need for extravagant culinary distractions. Marbella's food and drink scene might be known to many for its high-end dining, but the authentic heart of the town lies in its simplicity, rooted in fresh, local ingredients and cherished traditions. See another article on this website about Marbella

  • Nafplion: History and Charm in the Peloponnesian Landscape đŸ›ïž

    Many years ago,actually nearly half a century ago, I visited the town of Nafplion in Greece. That’s how we pronounced it but I see that you leave the final “n” off the name when you’re writing it in Greek. Anyway, we loved the place. And it’s easy to explain why. We had driven from England in 1977 in an old Renault 16 which had broken down a few times along the way. It is a very long way from the English Channel down to Greece via what used to be known as Yugoslavia. We had turned off the main roads on many occasions and ended up following dirt tracks through what is now known as Macedonia and Northern Greece. Nafplion, tucked away in the armpit of the eastern Peloponnese, came a very welcome haven. Many years later I returned and enjoyed a day exploring the town with a digital camera. A Walk Through Nafplion’s Layers of History Nafplion, located in the northeastern Peloponnese, offers a journey through Greece's layered past without the need for theatrics. Founded by the mythic hero Nauplios, the town’s importance grew under different regimes: from the Venetians, who fortified its slopes, to the Ottomans, who left an indelible cultural mark. As one of Greece’s earliest capitals in the modern era, Nafplion still reflects these historical overlaps in its architecture and street layout. Palamidi Fortress, high on the hill, remains a key symbol of the town, offering a physical reminder of Nafplion's strategic significance. Strolling the Old Town: Discovering Character Without Ornament The old town of Nafplion offers narrow, serpentine streets where influences mix effortlessly. Venetian homes stand alongside neoclassical structures, many adorned with bougainvillea. Walking through these streets, you’ll come across the modest but notable Syntagma Square, where traces of former municipal buildings and Turkish mosques echo past chapters of governance. The waterfront, meanwhile, presents a view to Bourtzi, a small fortress on an island that guarded the harbour—a legacy of the town's defensive priorities. Exploring Beyond Nafplion: From Ancient Ruins to Natural Landscapes 🌿 The area around Nafplion offers various opportunities for deeper exploration. A short drive leads to the archaeological site of Mycenae, where the Lion Gate and royal tombs connect visitors to Greece’s early civilisation. Nearby, the Epidaurus Theatre, still in use today, embodies the spirit of cultural continuity and the importance of shared experiences in ancient and modern Greek life. For those who prefer nature, the nearby beach of Karathona—not overdeveloped but accessible—provides a more immediate connection to the landscape, without the distraction of heavy infrastructure. Practical Insights for Visitors đŸ—ïž Visiting Nafplion involves an experience that rewards curiosity. Engaging with the details of its many historical periods requires a slower pace, one that allows for pausing at churches and climbing up to the higher points of Palamidi or Akronafplia. Comfortable walking shoes are essential here, as are brief but meaningful detours into small, family-run establishments—places that offer a taste of regional produce with little pretence.

  • Pumpkin Paradise

    It’s pumpkin time in the UK. All across the Northern Hemisphere, in fact. For 25 years, it was my job as a feature writer to track down various pumpkin farmers around the South West region of England so that I could write newspaper articles all about what kind of season it was
 Were this year’s pumpkins bigger than ever? Were there new varieties that were tastier than ever? You know the sort of thing. Anyway, thinking about pumpkins caused me to remember the most pumpkin-ish place I’ve ever been to - by which I mean Hokaido, Japan’s most northerly island - and home to the wonderful Niseko Autumn Food Festival. A Celebration of Hokkaido's Harvest As the hues of red, orange, and gold take over the forests among the mountains of Hokaido, Japan, the region comes alive with the sights, sounds, and aromas of the Niseko Autumn Food Festival. Set against the backdrop of Hokkaido's picturesque landscape, this festival is an annual celebration that honours the season's harvest, particularly the much-loved pumpkins, which, somewhat inevitably, play a starring role in Hokkaido's autumnal culinary scene. The Heart of Hokkaido: Fresh Produce and Community Located in the northern part of Japan, Hokkaido is famous for its nature, expansive farmlands, and fresh produce. Each autumn, the Niseko Autumn Food Festival brings together top local chefs, farmers, and artisans to showcase the culinary treasures of the region. The event is set outdoors, with the crisp air invigorating visitors as they wander among a colourful array of food stalls, sampling seasonal dishes that tell the story of Niseko's fertile land. Pumpkins: The Star of the Season Pumpkins are among the most celebrated ingredients at this time of year. Hokkaido's fertile volcanic soil and ideal climate make it the top producer of pumpkins in Japan. These pumpkins are sweeter and denser than their counterparts found elsewhere, making them an essential ingredient for a wide variety of dishes—from soups and stews to desserts. At the Niseko Autumn Food Festival, pumpkin lovers can indulge in everything from creamy kabocha pumpkin soups to pumpkin croquettes, and even pumpkin-flavoured pastries paired with locally sourced dairy products. A Feast of Flavours: More than Just Pumpkins But pumpkins aren't the only stars of the show. The festival offers a variety of traditional and innovative dishes that showcase other local ingredients, including freshly caught seafood, seasonal mushrooms, and the famous Hokkaido dairy products. You'll find grilled yakitori, juicy cuts of Niseko beef, and even locally crafted beer and cider, all made with the finest regional produce. The festival's relaxed, community-focused atmosphere makes it an ideal setting for families, foodies, and travellers who want to connect with the local culture through its flavours. More than Food: Music, Demonstrations, and Culture The food is only part of the experience. The festival also features live music performances, cooking demonstrations by top local chefs, and interactive events that give visitors a deeper understanding of Hokkaido's rich culinary heritage. Whether it's learning to make traditional Japanese pickles or watching a live pumpkin-carving demonstration, the Niseko Autumn Food Festival showcases the region's unique blend of food, culture, and nature. Autumn in Niseko As autumn leaves fall, Niseko provides a superb backdrop for savouring the harvest season. The festival invites visitors to slow down, breathe the crisp mountain air, and enjoy the simple pleasures of freshly harvested produce and warm, comforting dishes. No wonder that both locals and travellers alike consider the Niseko Autumn Food Festival a must-visit event. Niseko Autumn Food Festival Official Website Hokkaido Tourism Organization Niseko Tourism Guide

  • Exploring the Wines of Northern Italy đŸœïž

    The Changing Face of Our Dinner Tables đŸœïž The items that appear on the average West Country dinner table have changed dramatically over the past 20 to 30 years. Gone are the days when a simple plate of meat and two veg’ ruled supreme. Today, our tables are filled with diverse ingredients, flavours, and products that many of us would never have imagined back then. And this is particularly true in the case of wine. The Evolution of Wine in the West Country đŸ· From Exclusive Treat to Everyday Enjoyment Wine is a perfect example of this evolution. For centuries, wine has been present, but it was often reserved for aristocrats and special occasions. Anyone who remembers the 1960s, 70s, or even 80s will recall when wine was considered exotic and exclusive, a treat enjoyed by ambassadors and aristocrats. Then came mass-produced bottles like Liebfrauenmilch, Blue Nun, and Mateus RosĂ©, and suddenly, wine was everywhere. A Tsunami of Global Wines 🌍 Nowadays, wine is as common as any staple food, filling entire aisles in supermarkets across the West Country. From Romanian reds to Chilean whites, globalization has made wine accessible to everyone. However, this abundance has sparked another quieter revolution—one that focuses not just on quantity but on quality and discernment. A Journey to Northern Italy with Ramada and Dr. Jamie Goode ✈ Crafting Wine Lists for the World's Hotels Wine appreciation doesn't end at home; it extends to the wines we enjoy when dining out or staying at hotels. I had the opportunity to travel to Northern Italy, thanks to the massive Wyndham hotel group. The purpose? To experience their "Say Hello to Red" initiative, created in collaboration with wine expert Dr. Jamie Goode. Jamie has crafted a bespoke red wine list for some of Ramada's destinations worldwide, focusing on providing an assortment of flavors from lighter reds to more full-bodied wines, showcasing the diversity of regions where these hotels are located. Exploring Bardolino with Jamie Goode 🍇 During my visit, I joined Jamie on a field trip to the Bardolino wine area on the shores of Lake Garda, where we visited the renowned Guerrieri Rizzardi winery. It was here that I learned how Jamie meticulously selects the wines we see on restaurant and hotel wine lists. His goal is to represent the flavors and culture of each locale—something that really shines through when tasting these incredible wines. "Wine has a flavour that is local," Jamie explained as we stood amidst vineyards draped in mist. "It's a flavour contributed by the environment, the place, and the culture where the wine is grown. You can't just make these wines anywhere—they are wines of place." Bardolino: Tradition Meets Modern Winemaking đŸ· To gain further insight, I spoke with Olimpia Rizzardi, part of the family that owns many vineyards around Lake Garda and in Valpolicella. The Rizzardi family has been making wine since 1649, and while traditions have evolved, the essence of winemaking remains. "We still have our grapes—the varieties are corvina, rondinella, molinara," Olimpia said. "We keep tradition, but in a modern version." This dedication to maintaining the character of the wine, while embracing modern techniques, is what keeps Bardolino wines unique. When you taste them, you feel transported to the rolling hills and misty vineyards of Northern Italy—a testament to the deep connection between wine and place. Next Time You Pick a Bottle... đŸŸ Next time you're browsing the wine aisle, consider more than just "red or white." Think about the heritage, the region, and the story behind the wine. Whether you're exploring a new grape variety or supporting local vineyards, there's so much more to discover than what's immediately visible on the label. Learn More About Where Wine Meets Travel đŸ—ș Interested in learning about the intersection of food, travel, and wine culture? Visit my main website, Martin Hesp Food and Travel , for more stories like this. Fact File 📂 Stay in Style : Martin stayed at the Ramada Plaza Milano , located two minutes from the Milan subway and close to the city centre. Cheers to new adventures in wine! đŸ· Are you ready to explore more wines and stories? Let me know what you think of the wine revolution happening around us. I would love to hear your thoughts in the comments below!

  • Sunny Winter Meals: A Taste of Summer for Your Cold Days

    As the winter cold settles in, the body often craves something light, easygoing, and simple to digest. Somehow, even in the midst of frost and chill, we long for the brightness of fresh plant-life on our plates. So why not bring some Mediterranean sunshine into your winter kitchen? đŸ„— Craving Fresh Salads, Even in Winter? Nothing beats a big, garden-fresh salad during summer. Imagine leafy greens, greenhouse tomatoes, cucumbers, and peppers. Though winter isn't the season for them, it is possible to craft a delicious, summery salad with a bit of creativity. You could grab some ready-picked salad leaves, but if you're like me, you might care about seasonal eating. Sure, the thought of adding a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil to Canary Island tomatoes sounds delightful, especially with some herbs from the garden. But there's something off about those long food miles and greenhouse-grown veggies. đŸŒ± Embrace the Power of Beans and Pulses The good news is that the sunshine taste of the Mediterranean can be brought to your plate with the help of a pulse and a bean or two. One small caveat: dried pulses need a good soak—sometimes for quite a while—so it's worth planning ahead. If you're short on time, canned beans are also a great option! For instance, a simple salad of cannellini beans , sliced red onion, and parsley can be put together in just a few minutes. Toss in a homemade vinaigrette with the best extra-virgin olive oil, some lemon juice, and a spoonful of French mustard. 🌿 Add some crusty bread, a glass of wine, and maybe a little Flamenco music, and you can almost feel the warmth of a Spanish summer holiday. Explore more healthy salads here. đŸ«˜ Why Preparing Dried Beans is Worth It Taking the time to prepare dried pulses can make all the difference. Your salad will taste ten times better when you've soaked and cooked your own beans. Once drained, coat them in olive oil to prevent sticking and enhance the flavor. Bean salads are incredibly versatile. Want some heat? Add a finely chopped chili, sun-dried tomatoes, or even crushed garlic with anchovies. Nothing could be simpler, but the result is an explosion of flavor, extremely healthy, and remarkably affordable. Check out our budget-friendly Mediterranean recipes to learn more about making delicious yet inexpensive meals. 🐟 Chickpeas for Warm, Hearty Tagines Another versatile and economical option is chickpeas. These delightful pulses work perfectly in tagines , those aromatic Moroccan stews that bring warmth to even the coldest winter day. A favorite of mine is fish tagine with chickpeas. Simply simmer white fish, garlic, paprika, cumin, and chili in olive oil for 30 minutes, then add chickpeas and simmer for another 10 minutes. The exotic flavors will have you dreaming of Morocco's sunlit streets. Discover more hearty winter recipes here to keep the chill at bay. 🌞 Lentils: A Gift from Sunny Gardens Lentils are yet another gift from the garden that add sunshine to winter cooking. My Sicilian friend taught me a dish using Puy lentils . Once cooked until al dente, simply combine them with fried garlic, onions, inch-long sticks of cooked spaghetti, and generous amounts of extra-virgin olive oil. Sprinkle some sea salt and black pepper, and voilà—Mediterranean simplicity at its best. 🌿 Simple, Healthy, and Satisfying Eating in winter doesn't need to mean heavy, stodgy meals. Embracing light, sunny flavors can uplift your mood and benefit your health. I, for one, will be embracing this sunny, healthy Mediterranean approach over the next few weeks to bring some warmth and simplicity into my winter kitchen. 🏡 ✹ Related Articles You Might Enjoy https://www.martinhespfoodandtravel.com/hespfoodandtravelhome/food-and-drink-at-the-sunday-market-in-lisle-sur-la-sorgue https://www.martinhespfoodandtravel.com/hespfoodandtravelhome/madeira-food Top 5 Mediterranean Comfort Foods Simple Winter Herb Gardens for Your Kitchen Healthy Pulse Recipes to Keep You Warm

  • Discover Your Own Treasure Island: A Getaway to Petit St Vincent

    A Nostalgic Dream Come True A great many of us grew up dreaming of tropical islands, often inspired by books like "Robinson Crusoe" or perhaps the glamorous travels of James Bond. As a kid in the 1960s or 70s, visiting a sun-drenched island fringed with white sandy beaches and azure waters seemed like the stuff of fantasy—unless you were Princess Margaret. Fast forward to today, and those dreams can become reality in the form of a luxurious adventure to the small, private Caribbean island of Petit St Vincent (PSV). The Journey Begins: Like a Scene from James Bond The adventure to Petit St Vincent is as exciting as something out of a James Bond film. The journey begins with a flight to Barbados aboard Virgin Atlantic, followed by a transfer to a small private plane that flies into Union Island. Sitting right next to the pilot, I got a bird's-eye view of the azure sea, lush islands, and steep mountains—setting the tone for what was to come. After landing on Union Island, it’s just a two-minute ride to the jetty, where a powerful launch is waiting to whisk you across to Petit St Vincent. A Royal Welcome at Petit St Vincent Upon arrival at PSV, you are greeted with the kind of welcome reserved for royalty. The manager, staff, and even the manager’s wife are there to greet you, handing over cool drinks and chilled towels. Guests are driven in vintage 1970s Mini-Mokes across the island to their cottages. These 22 villas are truly luxurious, combining an elegant aesthetic with airiness—perfect for their tropical location just 11 miles from the equator. Cottages that Combine Luxury and Timeless Design Interestingly, the villas on Petit St Vincent were built almost half a century ago. With no air conditioning available back then, the architect designed the cottages to stay cool by catching the breeze, which is still an essential feature today. The Atlantic trade winds keep the cottages airy, while offering stunning views of the island’s beaches and reefs. An Island Designed for True Relaxation Unlike some of the larger resorts in the Caribbean, PSV maintains its sense of exclusivity and tranquility. This private island offers 360 degrees of stunning views, white sandy beaches, and hidden spots perfect for anyone looking to disconnect. Privacy is paramount on PSV—each villa has a private garden and its own flagpole. A red flag signals you wish not to be disturbed, while a yellow flag indicates a service request. Guests can request anything from champagne to breakfast, simply by inserting a note in the flagpole’s slot. Whether you’re someone who prefers room service or likes dining out, PSV caters to all tastes. Those who are craving adventure can take a walk through the woods to dine at either the main restaurant or the beach bar, which serves delightful dishes blending Caribbean and Southeast Asian flavors. Unmatched Seclusion and Caribbean Hospitality PSV’s heritage as an uninhabited island owned by a local Petit Martinique family means it has none of the overly developed, gated-community feel that some Caribbean resorts suffer from. Instead, PSV’s staff—many of whom commute from nearby islands—are some of the friendliest people you could hope to meet. Privacy and genuine hospitality come together in a way that ensures your holiday feels exclusive but not isolated. Beaches and Beyond: Adventures Await Petit St Vincent is surrounded by fabulous white beaches, each more beautiful than the last. Swim, snorkel, or simply relax in hammocks strung between palm trees, while waiters ride by on bicycles to take your drink order. Beyond lounging on the beach, PSV also offers the chance to set sail on a classic sailing yacht. Guests can venture to the beautiful Tobago Cays Marine Park, where you’ll experience some of the best snorkeling in the Caribbean. It’s an experience out of a travel dream—crystal-clear waters teeming with sea life, followed by a mouthwatering on-board barbecue. An Island Paradise with a Personal Touch For the ultimate relaxation, Petit St Vincent provides a full range of spa services, inspired by Indonesian styles, carried out by expert therapists who will help you unwind completely. I experienced one of these relaxing massages in the midst of a tropical thunderstorm—and despite the dramatic weather, I soon drifted into a peaceful slumber. The island is also a great place for a "digital detox." Internet access is limited to the reception area, giving you the chance to disconnect, de-stress, and immerse yourself in this luxurious Caribbean escape. Where Luxury Meets Adventure Petit St Vincent isn’t just a holiday destination—it’s an experience that turns a long-forgotten childhood fantasy into reality. Standing on a bluff, gazing over a moonlit ocean from my cottage, I felt as though I was living out my own Robinson Crusoe adventure—except with a good deal more comfort and luxury. If you’re looking for your very own Caribbean treasure island getaway, then Petit St Vincent is a destination that ticks all the boxes. From luxurious seclusion to the exciting Bond-like journey to the island, every moment here feels magical. Plan Your Own Getaway Discover more about how to plan your trip to Petit St Vincent and turn your tropical island fantasy into a reality. For information on flights, accommodation, and activities, visit Petit St Vincent's official website or explore options for sailing excursions to the Tobago Cays Marine Park. Key Highlights: Caribbean vacation Luxury private island getaway Petit St Vincent resort James Bond travel adventure Caribbean seclusion Tobago Cays Marine Park Experience the luxury of your own treasure island—plan your escape to Petit St Vincent today!

  • My newspaper column about St Ives

    Here is a copy of the weekly newspaper column I write for the Western Morning News and Western Daily Press - as published on Saturday October 12, 2024. I then cut and pasted it into an A.I. app asking it NOT to rewrite anything but to present it in a way which would be more fitting for this website. It kind of did what I asked, but disregarded my request and totally rewrote the thing. I put the two versions up here for anyone who is interested in what AI can and will do. I wonder how many of us find ourselves belonging to the See How The Other Half Live Club? In parts of the South West, where gleaming new glass and steel villas loom above the sea, it is a relevent question. This week I walked through a Cornish woodland where, years ago, plots of land had obviously been sold off because they happened to have leafy views of the ocean. You probably know the sort of place I mean - there are lots of them around the South West coastline. Places where individuals or local builders bought little slices of maritime property sometime after either the First or Second World War, so that they could knock-up a cheap retirement bungalow or a pleasant little villa.  But, like so many of the cars built decades ago that we now regard as being slow, unsafe, under-powered and absolutely tiny, such homes are no longer regarded as fit for purpose. The moment an old one falls empty and is put up for sale, it is either partly demolished or razed to the ground completely to make way for a huge new pleasure palace. In this particular woodland near St Ives, I must have walked past a couple of dozen such properties and every one of them was in the process of being massively refurbished or totally redeveloped.  I cannot believe there can be a builder west of the Tamar who doesn’t have enough work to last the next 20 years. Indeed, judging by the names on the sides of vans, there aren’t enough Cornish builders to go round. I saw firms which had come down from the Midlands.   This move to develop every last inch of anywhere and everywhere in our region that’s even remotely scenic, is simply a modern day reality. I am not making a political point and I can’t see there’s anything that can be done about it, least of all sit here moaning. But the thought that, to give one example, a young Cornish fisherman will never be able to live near the very ocean that gives him a living
 Well, somehow that doesn’t sit well with one’s notion of how things should be. Think of a picture-perfect holiday destination like a Westcountry fishing village, complete with boats bobbing in the harbour, and you somehow assume that the humanity which caused the place to exist in the first place will be present and correct. These are proper communities, not theme parks. Local people should live and work there, and should always be an integral part of the picture. But that’s the picture-postcard version. What you don’t see is the fisherman driving 10 miles before dawn to reach his boat from the nearest inland town that provides social housing. And you don’t really want to see it, because it’s not part of our preferred narrative. In our minds, a fishing village automatically represents a community of local people - doing all the things locals do, like talking in dialect, drinking pints in pubs or singing hearty Wesleyan hymns in chapels. Maybe even eating saffron cake. It’s the way we like the story. Have you been to St Ives recently? Someone told me there’s just one local fishing family remaining in the Downalong, the quaint old area close to the boats. Whether that’s true I don’t know, but as I walked through that wonderful tangle of alleyways this week, I could believe it. All very different when I first stalked around those narrow streets as a young journalist just over 50 years ago. Fisher-families and artists seemed to make up 90 percent of the population. I knew some of them and, being young and stupid, did a little too much in the way of socialising with them. Visiting St Ives in 1974 was a full-on sensory experience, sometimes accompanied by a thick head in the morning. Nothing, though, that a windy walk to Zennor couldn’t cure.  I used to stay with a friend who was among the more eccentric daubers of paint. He created seascapes in oils at night, but worked under the name Brian Quicksketch as a portrait artist on the beach by day
 A long weekend in that town, his company, was like spending 76 hours on a different planet. One minute I’d be drinking with some local fishermen having bought a dozen fresh mackerel on the quay, the next I was being introduced to world-famous potter Bernard Leach at a bohemian party.  It was all dazzling and colourful and very different from any other place I knew. Back then, St Ives had more character on the end of its brush or in a single one of its lobster pots than all the Home Counties could boast collectively.  Today, some might say it represents an annex of the South East, but with waves and brighter light. Anodyne. Fabulous to look at it, but with no one really at home. A granite-built theme park, perhaps.  While I’m wallowing in an old geezer’s dose of nostalgia, I also hark back to the early 1970s and remember the welcome inauguration and rapid growth the Campaign for Real Ale. All these years later I wonder if there shouldn’t be a Campaign for the Real Westcountry.  But of course it wouldn’t work. You can’t wind the clock back. Instead, I’ve joined the See How The Other Half Live club. NOW HERE’S THE A.I. VERSION Introduction Have you ever wondered how many of us belong to the "See How The Other Half Live" club? It’s a relevant question, especially in parts of the South West where gleaming glass and steel villas loom above the sea. The Evolution of Cornish Coastline: From Bungalows to Luxury Villas In my recent walk through a Cornish woodland near St Ives, I saw a stark change—plots of land sold years ago, once hosting quaint retirement bungalows, now giving way to sprawling, luxurious homes. These transformations represent the region's evolving relationship with its scenic coastline, where old homes are increasingly being replaced with "pleasure palaces." The Builders of Tomorrow and the Housing Demand Walking through this area, every property seemed to be in some stage of redevelopment, showcasing the high demand for skilled builders—many of whom are even coming from outside Cornwall to meet the increasing need. Modern Reality vs. Traditional Coastal Communities This development push may be seen as a reality of modern times, but it also raises concerns. For instance, young local fishermen are now priced out of living near the very ocean they depend on for their livelihoods. It creates a contradiction—fishing villages, once authentic local communities, are becoming inaccessible to the people who made them. Tourist Narratives vs. Real Life Picturesque coastal towns like St Ives have become synonymous with postcard imagery of Westcountry life. Visitors often imagine locals actively living and thriving in these areas, singing folk songs in pubs and sharing village stories. However, the reality is different; the charm is often a façade. Reflections on St Ives Then and Now St Ives holds special memories for me. When I roamed its narrow streets as a young journalist over 50 years ago, it was full of artists and fisher families. Staying with a friend, I was able to experience the raw creativity and the vibrant local culture that defined this town. But today, that authenticity is slipping away, replaced by holiday homes and high-end renovations. The Disappearing Character of the Westcountry Once, St Ives represented an incredible community where the artistic spirit and the seafaring way of life thrived side by side. Now, some view it as an extension of the South East—a beautiful but hollow place, an annex with waves and bright light, yet with few true locals left to call it home. A Call for the Real Westcountry My reflections leave me longing for a "Campaign for the Real Westcountry"—an effort akin to the Campaign for Real Ale that started in the early 1970s. It’s about preserving the character, culture, and communities that make this place special. But, perhaps, such efforts wouldn’t be enough. You cannot rewind time; maybe all we can do is watch as members of the "See How The Other Half Live" club.

  • The Great Cornish Seafood Weekend: Celebrating Cornwall's Rich Fishing Heritage

    When in Rome... well, you know the rest. In the spirit of embracing local culture, when I was down in Cornwall last week, I did as the locals do—I bought some fresh, local fish. Why wouldn't I? Cornwall, with its coastline jutting into the Atlantic, is teeming with an abundance of fabulous, fresh, and sustainable seafood, arguably the finest in the UK. It would be a shame not to take some home! One of the best places to source fresh seafood in Cornwall is the Great Cornish Food Store , located in Truro. This store is more than just a grocery shop—it's a celebration of all things Cornish. The seafood counter there is, quite simply, one of the best you'll find this side of the English Channel. The Great Cornish Seafood Weekend: A Unique Event Last week, while visiting the store, I learned about an exciting upcoming event: the Great Cornish Seafood Weekend . Happening on 26th and 27th October , this event will be showcasing the delights of fresh, sustainable seafood from Cornwall’s waters. There will be live demonstrations, talks, tasting stations, a seafood bar, children’s activities, and even sea shanties! It's the store's first large-scale event, and if Ruth Huxley, the store’s founder and CEO, is behind it, you can be sure it will be something special. Ruth Huxley is a visionary who set out in 2016 to create an outlet dedicated to promoting the best of Cornish food and drink. Her goal for the Great Cornish Seafood Weekend is to celebrate the fishing industry, which is the lifeblood of many coastal communities in Cornwall. "We want to shine a light on our brilliant fishing industry," Ruth explained, "and encourage people to explore lesser-known species and different ways of using them." The Challenges of Seafood Consumption in the UK The seafood industry faces unique challenges—from the geographical distance between producer and consumer to a lack of knowledge about how to prepare and cook the different types of fish available. Because of these hurdles, only a fraction of the seafood caught in UK waters is actually eaten here. Events like the Great Cornish Seafood Weekend aim to bridge this gap by bringing the fishing industry and consumers closer together. It's been 40 years since chef Keith Floyd first sang the praises of West Country seafood on his TV series, and yet, as a nation, we still lag behind our European neighbours when it comes to eating fresh fish. The Great Cornish Food Store is working to change that by making the seafood accessible and educating people on how to enjoy it. During the Seafood Weekend, their cafe will transform into a seafood bar, serving delectable dishes like lobster bisque, monkfish satay skewers, classic crab sandwiches, pan-fried squid , and the freshest fish and chips made with gurnard. A Collaborative Celebration of Cornish Seafood The event is a collaboration between the Great Cornish Food Store and the Cornish Fish Producers’ Association (CFPO) , which represents over 160 member vessels. CFPO's chief executive, Chris Ranford, will also be speaking at the event about the importance of the fishing industry to Cornwall’s economy. "The Great Cornish Seafood Weekend is a great opportunity to celebrate how crucial the seafood sector is to our economy," Chris said. He highlighted the variety available, including sustainably caught sardines , hake from an MSC-accredited fishery, and megrim sole (also known as "Cornish sole"), which offers a tasty, affordable alternative to Dover sole. Meet the Experts at the Seafood Weekend Throughout the weekend, attendees will have the chance to learn from some of the leading seafood experts, including Pete Murt , head chef at Rick Stein’s flagship The Seafood Restaurant , and Stephane Delourme , former head chef at Rick Stein Restaurants, who will be demonstrating the art of shucking and cooking oysters. Acclaimed fishmonger Annie Seabourne from My Fish Kitchen will also be on hand to show how to cook, pick, and enjoy crab. The Cornwall Wildlife Trust and their Good Seafood Guide will provide advice on sustainable fish choices, and children can enjoy mobile rock pooling led by the Rock Pool Project . The Great Cornish Seafood Weekend is part of the Agrifood Sector Development Project and is supported by the Good Growth programme , funded by the Government’s UK Shared Prosperity Fund. For more information on the Great Cornish Seafood Weekend or to book your free tickets for chef demonstrations, visit www.greatcornishfood.co.uk . Recipe: Salt-Baked Red Gurnard Gurnard is a fantastic fish that has become increasingly popular in recent years. This salt-baked red gurnard recipe brings out the best in its flavor: Ingredients: Whole gutted gurnard, one per person Stalks of flat leaf parsley and thyme Ground sea salt Instructions: Stuff the body cavity of the gurnard with parsley and thyme. Sprinkle a layer of salt in a roasting pan, place the gurnard on top, then cover it with more salt until fully enclosed. Bake at 200°C for 25 minutes. Allow to cool slightly, crack the salt crust, and peel it away from the fish. Remove the skin and serve the flaky, delicate fish with a fresh salad or chips. The Future of Cornish Seafood Cornwall is blessed with some of the best seafood in the world, and the Great Cornish Food Store is helping to lead the charge in making sure more of us appreciate it. Events like the Great Cornish Seafood Weekend are crucial in educating consumers and bridging the gap between the incredible fish that comes out of Cornwall's waters and the dinner plates across the UK. So why not come down and experience the very best of Cornish seafood for yourself? It's a feast for the senses and an opportunity to learn more about the rich heritage that Cornwall's fishing industry has to offer.

  • Boutique Hotel on the Algarve

    There are place names in the great European atlas that are enough to make the discerning traveller scuttle in the opposite direction – for example, having travelled to almost every corner of the EU in 30 years of writing travel articles, I’ve always managed to avoid the Algarve thinking it to be overcrowded and over-exploited. But one generalises at one’s peril. I am sure there are parts of Portugal’s southern coastline which are overbearing in certain seasons, but the south west corner is less developed than the rest, much of it is beautiful, and outside high summer the place is an absolute joy. I was recently sunbathing on a vast and picturesque beach down near Sagres – which is Portugal’s version of Land’s End – on a day when my Exmoor home was quivering under three inches of snow.  Apart from my wife and me, the warm sandy beach was completely and utterly empty – not a soul came near the place in the two hours we were there. I needed the afternoon sunny snooze because we’d just partaken of a huge and wonderful seafood lunch in a restaurant which contained half a dozen local folk and not a single tourist. And here’s the real joy: this warm and lovely escape-chute from freezing Britain is less than a two hour flight from the UK. I take back all I’d ever imagined about the Algarve – but would not have been in the position to if it hadn’t been for a friend who is one of the doyens of the British travel trade. This particular chap is a connoisseur of small boutique hotels – the kind where they pamper you in lovely settings without having the annoying hordes come knocking at the door.  “You must go to Quinta Bonita , near Lagos, in the South West Algarve” he told me. “It is beautiful – there are only eight suites located in an old family house set in enchanting gardens.” He was correct in every detail. Quinta Bonita won my own personal award for Secret Find of the Year. There are lots of flights to Faro and from there it’s an easy hour long blast along the main Algarve motorway to Lagos, which is the last town before you get to Portugal’s abrupt, wild and rocky south west corner.  Lagos came to prominence during the 15th century when the Portuguese were the planet’s greatest explorers – it’s said locally that the port was as important during the Age of Discovery as Cape Canaveral was during the early years of space exploration. It’s a fascinating place – but more about it later because we must just check-in at Quinta Bonita, which located five minutes west of town near the coastal village of Luz.  Set back on a hillside about a mile from the sea, the spacious property was designed and built by a successful Yorkshire businessman who obviously fancied creating for himself a kind of sunlit gentleman’s estate. Later it was sold to a lovely family who gave it a great deal of tender loving care. Some years ago they made the decision to turn the place into a small boutique hotel: “We wanted to maintain the laid back and friendly atmosphere so that people instantly feel at home and leave refreshed and revitalised,” the owners told me. It was a real hands-on affair with members of the extended family lending a hand during the year long conversion .  And it’s all very tastefully done indeed – our suit boasted a huge double bed (all beds have Egyptian linen), flat screen TV, two balconies and a vast bathroom complete with a bubbling hot tub style bath.  We looked out over the hotel’s heated pool to the exquisite gardens in which rare birds like hoopoes cavorted in the sunshine. Anyway, the Algarve is extremely rich in restaurants – and one of the delights of visiting this coast is to go out and eat. Lagos alone has countless eateries and you can be fed in any manner you please – from basic cafes where local fishermen refuel to high-end joints that know how to charge.  We went to a couple of thoroughly charming local restaurants during our short break - Restaurante do Camilo is perched above a fantastic beach just outside Lagos and specialises in local fish dishes. It’s most famous for its amazing views looking east back along the Algarve, but it was pitch black the winter’s night we were there so we concentrated on the food, which is good, generous, simple fare.  On another evening we went into the heart of town where the incredibly busy Adeja Tipica A Forja was bursting with neon light and local folk enjoying yet more seafood. Again, best go hungry – my dish of tiny local clams would have fed an entire family. I liked Lagos a lot. Two main cobbled shopping streets run parallel to the estuary on the banks of which the town is built and there are numerous sites of historical interest that will keep you absorbed for a day. I would definitely recommend a visit to the large riverside market where they sell fresh fish – but then I tend to recommend local markets in every travel article I write.  The name Lagos is Celtic in origin but was first colonised by the Carthaginians, who recruited Celtic tribesmen in their war against the Romans. Later it became colonized by the armies from Italy becoming part of the Roman province Lusitania – there are still plenty of remains from that period to be seen to this day.  Delightful though the town is, I’d say it’s the far south west corner that really earns all this region’s brownie points. From Lagos west the sandy, cliff-bordered coast is punctuated by a handful of sleepy fishing villages which I reckon are the real charm of the area.  Places like Burgau, Salema, Figuera and Zavial beckon few visitors, yet are the jewels in the Algarve’s crown. We took to calling into such places for a quiet drink at the end of the afternoon and watching the fishermen come in from the sea.  These are all cove fishermen who must haul their boats up the beach, but at Sagres things get altogether more serious. The deep water port here is home to dozens of sizeable trawlers and a large fish-market – and it really is the Portuguese version of Newlyn, tucked safely away from the protection of the nation’s Land’s End.  The lonely rocky spur is known as Cabo Vincente and it is capped by a giant lighthouse. In true Land’s End style it rained heavily when we went out there for some sightseeing, so we beat a hasty retreat to Sabres where Chantelle had recommended we lunch at the locally famous Tasca restaurant.  As this place is a just a flying fish’s jump from the harbour it’s not surprising that it specialises in seafood. And what truly fabulous seafood it is. Don’t expect to leave for a couple of hours – and don’t expect to have room for a smidgen of food for days after your visit. I had a kind of prawn risotto that was the most filling thing I’ve eaten in years.  I am leaving the best until last. All this coast a few miles west of Lagos is a national park, but it’s where it rounds the corner and begins its journey north that the littoral becomes breathtakingly empty beautiful.  Past the little agricultural town of Vila do Bispo the landscape gets wilder and more scenic – and the thing to watch out for are the occasional tiny side roads that disappear through the woods and hills to your left. These, inevitably, lead down to vast and stupendously wonderful surfing beaches that would make the average Cornish wave-rider turn green with envy.  This must be one of the least spoilt coasts in all of Europe – no wonder I’m swallowing all I ever thought about the Algarve. We drove home via an inland route past occasional villages through low wooded mountains wondering why we’d never heard of any of this magical land before.  Quinta Bonita is the ideal base from which to explore the area and having taken three decades of travel writing to discover it I’ll be making amends by going again.

  • Food and Drink at the Sunday Market in L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue

    It was a burning hot morning the day we visited this famous market situated in the heart of Provence. If I’m honest, I was beginning to dread facing the crowds and overheated streets, but then, I’d never been to L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue before. The first thing I realised was that it features a great many cooling waterways, and these really did have the effect of reducing the sun’s heat.  L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue is a picturesque town which plays host to one of the region's most popular Sunday markets. Known for its blend of antiques and local crafts, the market is also a paradise for food lovers. With stalls overflowing with fresh produce, regional specialties, and artisanal drinks, the market showcases the rich culinary traditions of Provence. A Culinary Journey Through Provence The market's food section, centred around Place de la LibertĂ©, is a vibrant, bustling area where vendors display an impressive array of fresh, seasonal produce. Piles of sun-ripened tomatoes, fragrant herbs, and colourful peppers set the scene, while stacks of melons and baskets of cherries reflect the changing seasons. The fruit and vegetables are for the most part locally grown, and the vendors are happy to offer tips on preparation or share stories about the farms where the produce originates. If you are enjoying this article you might also like The Perfect Plum Cheeses and Charcuterie Cheese lovers will find themselves in a foodie heaven - there’s just about everything imaginable from creamy goat cheeses typical of the region to aged varieties with intense flavours. The selection of charcuterie is equally tempting, with local sausages, pĂątĂ©s, and terrines made from recipes passed down through generations. Many stalls also sell olives and tapenades, staple condiments of the Provençal table that pair perfectly with fresh baguettes available from the market’s bakers. Freshly Prepared Foods One of the highlights of the market is the array of ready-to-eat foods, perfect for those who want to sample the local cuisine on the spot. You’ll find vendors roasting chickens on open spits, their golden skin crisped and seasoned with Provençal herbs. Nearby, other stalls offer socca, a savoury chickpea pancake originating from Nice, cooked on large griddles and served hot with a dash of pepper. For a quick snack, try the fougasse, a Provençal flatbread often filled with olives, herbs, or cheese. Crepe stands are also popular, offering both sweet and savoury options filled with Nutella, fresh fruit, ham, or cheese, satisfying any craving you might have during your market stroll. Artisanal Drinks and Local Wines The market also offers a fine selection of local wines and artisanal drinks that reflect the unique terroir of Provence. Wine merchants showcase bottles from nearby vineyards, including rosĂ©s, whites, and reds that pair perfectly with the market’s fresh foods. Many vendors offer tastings, providing an opportunity to sample different varieties before making a purchase. Beyond wine, there are stalls selling locally produced fruit juices, craft beers, and the anise-flavoured spirit pastis. Freshly squeezed juices, made from seasonal fruits, offer a refreshing way to cool down on warmer days. Sweet Treats and Baked Goods For those with a sweet tooth, the market does not disappoint. Stalls brimming with pastries, cakes, and confections catch the eye. Tarte tropĂ©zienne, a local brioche filled with creamy custard, is a must-try. Other stalls offer colourful macarons, flaky croissants, and an array of nougats and candied fruits. Honey is another specialty, often infused with lavender, thyme, or rosemary, reflecting the herbs that grow abundantly in the region. Jars of jams made from apricots, figs, and berries line the shelves, showcasing the abundant fruit harvests of Provence. The Sunday market at L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue is quite simply a feast for the senses, especially for those who appreciate good food and drink. It’s more than just a place to shop; it’s an opportunity to engage with local producers, discover traditional Provençal flavours, and enjoy a leisurely morning in one of the most charming settings in the region. Whether you’re there to stock up on fresh ingredients or simply to sample the tastes of Provence, the market provides a delightful immersion into the local food culture.

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