Learning the Art of Fish Cookery with Annie Seabourne How many of us home-cooks think we know our way around a fish? Really know it, I mean, so that we can clean, gut and fillet any kind of swimming creature that is about to bless our dinner tables? My guess is there’ll be a smallish number who’ll feel confident when confronted with any kind of raw seafood, but also a majority who will look at different kinds of fish and wish they were at the chip shop buying something deep fried and free of bones. I would place myself in the first group, although having said that I can report that I am now 100 percent more knowledgeable than I was just a week ago. Why? Because although I thought I knew most kinds of fish, I didn’t. A Seafood Cookery Course in Mawnan Smith I learned this truth after I spent two days with my new pal and seafood mentor, Annie Seabourne. A Cornish fisherman’s daughter with many years of experience working in the fishing industry, Annie now runs her own seafood cookery school, called My Fish Kitchen . Which is an accurate description, because it is actually based in Annie’s own kitchen in her small cottage in the village of Mawnan Smith - and the one thing she specialises in is teaching people about the edible delights of the sea. Learning from a Cornish Fish Expert Could I fillet a fish before I met Annie? Yes. Could I do it well? No. Did I know the different cuts and techniques you need to make a good job of different kinds of fish? Definitely not. Now I do. If I can remember them all, which is doubtful for me with a brain like a sieve. However, I am likely to remember the basics. Because that is what Annie is very good at teaching. Even though I spent a day-and-a-half at My Fish Kitchen, what we did was to simply cover the basics. In such a short time, how could you glean the entire knowledge of someone who’s spent the best part of 40 years in the fish trade? Annie began her career by setting up her own business selling seafood in Cornwall - and as such she is a walking encyclopaedia of all things marine and edible. Hands-On Seafood Skills: Filleting, Squid, Stock & More The sessions were practical, allowing for a direct engagement with various types of fish and their preparation. The curriculum covered different methods of cooking and handling seafood. The instruction was clear and focused on developing a basic proficiency and, as I say, my understanding of fish preparation expanded enormously. Annie’s instructions included details on selecting fresh fish as well as exacting details on the various techniques for filleting. We worked with a range of local species, gaining experience with their individual characteristics. On our first four-hour day we looked at fresh mackerel, red mullet, whiting, lemon sole and John Dory - we also dealt with squid and we made a simple but fabulous fish stock. On the second morning we went on to deal with lobster and brown crab. Annie’s Filleting Techniques and Fish Wisdom Each of the fish required a different filleting technique. Of course, saying that, you do not have to fillet any of them. Cooking them whole is excellent for flavour, but there are a good many folk who would prefer their fish with no pesky bones - and at least by filleting something like a lemon sole you can use its carcass to make a good stock. I was amazed by the different cuts Annie showed me. For example, there are certain little swipes with the sharp knife you can use around the neck area to release an entire fillet, but you need to know exactly how and where. To give another example, there’s another kind of knife action with a flat fish which sees the filleter jabbing the point directly down between the flat bone structure and the rear of the fish - angle the blade out towards the edge and you can work your way along to release a wonderfully clean fillet. Cornish Knowledge Passed Down Generations A Falmouth fisherman’s daughter, Annie was literally born to work in the Cornish seafood industry. In her kitchen she demonstrates techniques learned from her lifetime of experience, explaining and demonstrating each step so that I, as the pupil, could replicate the process. This hands-on approach allowed me to get to grips with the feel of each fish - and, believe me, they are all quite different. Simple Seafood Cookery: Less is More In short, I reckon Annie must be one of the UK’s best teachers when it comes to basic fish and shellfish preparation. If you don’t know the basics, then it’s difficult to fly to higher places, and Annie covers the rudimentary seafood knowledge with great gusto and aplomb. As and when we’d finish with a fish, she’d then cook it in some way or other, but always with maximum simplicity. Needless to say, I consumed a large quantity of delicious seafood on both days. Keeping things simple is the best way to cook just about any fish. These creatures of the sea have delicate flavours and I cannot see the point in drowning them with things like strongly flavoured sauces. Even the humble whiting can be absolutely delicious when filleted and fried in a speck of butter. One of Annie’s mantras is to leave the cooked flesh to rest somewhere warm for a minute or two, just like your would a piece of steak. Tips, Tricks, and Tasty Treats from the Sea The squid was fried for no more than a minute while a whole red mullet was baked on top of some roasted summer veg for less than 10 minutes. And talking of the red mullet, it’s a fish famed for its liver - and Annie demonstrated how to relieve our sample of its delicious organ. Delicious, that is, when fried in a tiny knob of butter for a few seconds. Cornish caviar. That’s what I called it. But then I used the same description for the mackerel liver and its roe, which Annie also prised from the fish and fried. Fabulous, yet so many home-cooks ignore these delicacies and throw them away. Shellfish Masterclass: Lobster & Brown Crab When it came to the shellfish part of the course, I was amazed at the lengths Annie went to in order to gain every last edible gram out of our samples. And why not? Lobster ain’t exactly cheap, so it’s worth spending an extra ten minutes winning every last morsel. Lesson 1: do not throw away that gungy looking green stuff that runs up into a lobster’s head, it is the equivalent to the ultra-tasty brown crabmeat. It will have sometimes turned red during the eight minute boiling time which the fishmonger get will have given it - whatever the colour, do not squander this maritime gold. Lesson 2: there’ll also be quite a bit of meat in the head if you know where to look, and when it comes to those thin little legs (not the main claws, which obviously feature lots of flesh) they’ll also contain meat which you can release like a straw by pushing a rolling pin down each section. You could fill a book with Annie Seabourne’s tips - indeed, writing a series of books is exactly what she plans on doing. In the meantime, if you love preparing seafood at home I would very much recommend a day at My Fish Kitchen - visit www.myfishkitchen.co.uk or email her at annie@myfishkitchen.co.uk PANEL 1: Recipe – Whole Red Mullet on Summer Veg Whole red mullet is one of Annie Seabourne’s favourite fish… “Ask your local fishmonger to gill and gut the red mullet, also removing the scales. Retain the liver, it’s delicious,” says Annie. “Pop it in the cavity for roasting on top of Mediterranean vegetables. “Namely: red pepper, red onion, chopped red chilli and garlic. Pre-roast the veg at 150 degrees for 30 minutes. Seal the fish in a nonstick pan, with hot butter, for 1 minute on each side. Transfer the fish with the liver, to then sit on the veg and roast at 180 degrees for 11 minutes. “Rest the fish, straight out of the oven for about 6-8 minutes with foil on top. Once the thicker part of the flesh comes away from the bone, it’s ready to serve!” PANEL 2: Seabourne Fish, Penryn – A Cornish Seafood Institution Anyone who enjoys a lesson at My Fish Kitchen will be tempted to go home with a cool-box full of seafood - and they can do no better than visit Annie’s cousin, David Seabourne, who happens to run one of the best fishmonger businesses in all the South West. Seabourne’s Fish, on Commercial Road, Penryn (just 10 minutes drive from Annie) is described by many local people as a “Mecca” for all things seafood. Having visited the shop I am happy to agree - a quick glance at the fish on offer will tell you that this company really does go the extra mile in providing the very best quality seafood. “Our reputation has been built on quality, service and freshness,” says a very modest and quietly-spoken David. “Not only do we guarantee our fish is delivered to you as fresh as we can possibly supply, but we also source our products, whenever possible, from sustainably caught fish - and we are proud to be associated with the South West Hand-line Fishermen's Association.” Visit www.seabournefish.co.uk

Dimos Balopoulos is a chef based in eastern Crete, and I remember him telling me how each winter his bosses send him around the world to work for short spells in top kitchens so that he could expand his kitchen’s repertoire. And if it’s good enough for a leading light like Dimos, it’s good enough for an amateur like me. Indeed, one reason I was in Crete was to learn a bit more about how the Greeks in general — and the Cretans in particular — centre all their culinary practices on the quality of local ingredients. The Tradition of Foraging for Wild Greens in Cretan Cuisine Here’s an unlikely example which Cretan home-cooks share with their neighbours across the Aegean in Puglia — it concerns what they call “wild greens” ( horta in Greece), plants which most English people would describe as weeds. As wild edible plants pop their heads above the rocky soil in both places, so they’ll be collected daily by men and women from the rural villages, and at weekends by those who live in towns. “You can find many varieties in Crete which come out season by season,” says Dimos. “So what local people do is collect them and preserve them — you can’t eat all you pick. Some they pickle, others they salt or freeze. And they use them all year.” He is talking about things like dandelion leaves, wild rocket, even thistle stalks. “First they put them in salt and then wash them and put them in (white wine) vinegar in a jar. That is happening in every Cretan farm because they cannot eat all they pick when it’s in season.” And so the pickled vegetables — which are delicious — have become a feature of Cretan cuisine. One which a top chef like Dimos adapts and extends until pickled vegetables become a small but important signature of his five-star cooking. Why Don’t We Pickle More Wild Vegetables in the UK? Why aren’t we pickling wild vegetables? Why don’t we have that kind of foraging as part of our culinary tradition? Such things are a mystery to me. It’s not as if our forefathers always lived so high on the hog, they didn’t go hungry. Wild greens, seaweeds and other things besides were left untouched… We’ve got them, but for some reason the peasants of this land never ate them, no matter how desperate they became. If I am wrong about that and they did — then how is it the routine never became a part of a tradition which saw the dishes being handed down? Sea Urchins: The Flavour of the Cretan Sea What I like about talking to chefs like Dimos is how linked with such tradition — and with such simple local ingredients — they seem to be. We were talking about eating sea-urchin — the spiny shellfish which he told me had become illegal to harvest in Crete. Not that this seems to stop anyone from gingerly picking them out of the rocks — indeed one cove I visited was black with them. “With the sea urchins you are literally eating the sea when it comes to the flavour,” said Dimos. “We like them best simply eaten fresh on their own. But then we can adapt them into the sort of cooking we do here.” A Global Culinary Perspective with Local Ingredients “Every winter the hotel sends us around the world looking for fresh ideas. Last year we went to Oslo and worked there in a three-Michelin star restaurant called Maaemo. The year before we went to Copenhagen and worked at Kadeau. These are some of the very best restaurants in the world. So yes, we can say that we travel and pick up ideas — to see what is going on and to open our eyes. “But then we bring those ideas back and use them with the ingredients we have here. It’s all about the ingredients. Crete is a really huge island and they can produce anything they want.” The Mediterranean Influences on Cretan Cuisine “Cretan food is more Mediterranean, than Greek,” said Dimos, which at first sounded strange but then I began to realise what he meant. Across the 300 kilometre long island you will see influences from the Middle East, North Africa and even Spain. “The vegetables have more flavour than they do elsewhere in Greece because of the climate. Even a green pepper will not taste the same in other places. Here it is grown in the sunshine.” Building Close Relationships with Local Food Producers “What we do is call in all the producers to show us what they have — this is happening at the beginning of the season and we choose all the ingredients and make a deal with them for the whole year. We are one of the very few hotels doing that. We have this one day when they all come here — and we do a deal with the man, say, who is going to produce us our tomatoes. He comes from 40 minutes away and he grows his tomatoes out in the sunshine and they are superb.” “All our seafood is coming from around this island. Every morning I go to the fish market in town (Agios Nikolaos) and every night they call me — even at one at night — to tell me if there’s anything special which they will buy straight from the boat for me.” Combining Traditional Cretan Cooking with Global Techniques “What we do here is combine what happens in a local farmhouse kitchen with modern techniques from around the world,” said Dimos who pointed to one dish I’d enjoyed that lunchtime. “Your starter was a kind of risotto with a Greek salad inside and raw prawns that have been ‘ceviched’ for ten minutes in lemon juice, pepper and paprika. We cut the prawns in half to marinate them — and we might also add sea urchin.” It was sensational. The freshness of a Greek salad, the creaminess of a risotto and the raw citric fishiness of prawns and urchin combined to create something that arguably encapsulated eastern Crete in a single mouthful. The Challenge: Bringing Cretan InspiratiHome The challenge I’ve given myself is to replicate the dish loosely by using fabulous fresh ingredients from here in the South West. The citrus and the rice wouldn’t be local but I might find alternatives — even so, it should be possible to emulate the idea and create some morsel that sums up Cornwall, say, in one happy bite. Recipe from Dimos Balopoulos Smoked Octopus Escabeche with Black Guacamole and Salad of Fermented Cucumber & Turnip Ingredients: For the Octopus 600-700 gr octopus Salt, pepper to taste 1 medium onion 4 bay leaves Olive oil ½ cup red wine For the Black Guacamole 2 avocados, peeled and pitted 1 green chilli ½ cup fresh coriander Salt, pepper to taste 30 ml lime juice 1 tsp squid ink For the Escabeche 360 ml white balsamic vinegar 120 ml rice vinegar 6 allspice berries 2 tsp smoked paprika 7 garlic cloves, diced 4 white onions, diced 1 chilli 240 ml extra virgin olive oil Salt 60 gr roasted almonds Smoked Octopus Method Preheat the oven to 160°C. Wash the octopus and remove its head. Separate the tentacles, cut them into long strips and place them in paper foil with olive oil, salt, pepper, the onion, bay leaves, and drizzle with red wine. Wrap in ovenproof baking paper and then wrap again with aluminium foil. Place in the oven for one hour. When you remove it from the oven, separate octopus from the juices. Black Guacamole In a blender add the avocado first and all the ingredients to make a creamy black sauce. Escabeche In a frying pan, heat the olive oil, onions, garlic until they’ve turned transparent. Then transfer to a blender with the rest of the ingredients and blend until it turns into a smooth cream. Salad Lightly pickled cucumber cut in julienne style Lightly pickled turnip, julienne style Chopped cherry tomatoes Spoonful of capers Spoonful of olives Onion that you have pickled briefly To Serve Mix and place the salad on a plate then add the guacamole and either place the octopus which has been combined with the escabeche sauce, or place the octopus with the sauce on top.

Learning to Cook Cornish Fish with Annie Seabourne of My Fish Kitchen This week we were in Cornwall for a few days so that I could attend some fish cookery classes led by my new pal, Annie Seabourne, of My Fish Kitchen . In short, she is a walking encyclopaedia of anything and everything to do with British seafood . The excellent instruction focused on basic seafood preparation techniques and I will be writing all about the experience in my Hesp Out West feature in the Western Morning News and Western Daily Press . Staying at Budock Vean Hotel on the Helford River For accommodation during this period, we selected the Budock Vean Hotel , situated in a beautiful area overlooking the Helford Passage . It is a first-class hotel — very well known in the region for all the right reasons — and the grounds most definitely offered a wonderful visual component to the stay. The overall environment of the hotel contributed to a sense of relaxation throughout the visit. Seafood Cookery Classes in Mawnan Smith To put it very basically, Annie's classes , staged at her small cottage in Mawnan Smith , covered the basics of seafood cookery . The sessions were practical, allowing for direct engagement with various types of fish and their preparation. The curriculum covered different methods of cooking and handling Cornish seafood , moving from basic steps to more involved recipes. The instruction was clear and focused on developing proficiency in these tasks. My understanding of fish preparation expanded enormously during the two days. Mastering the Art of British Seafood Preparation Annie’s instructions included details on selecting fresh fish as well as exacting details on the various techniques for filleting fish . We also looked at various cooking applications such as pan-frying fish , baking fish , and steaming seafood . We worked with a range of local fish species , gaining experience with their individual characteristics. Expert Instruction from a Cornish Seafood Professional Annie, who is a Falmouth fisherman’s daughter and who has many years of experience working in the Cornish seafood industry , demonstrated each step, and then I, as the participant, replicated the process. This hands-on approach allowed for immediate application of the concepts presented. Questions were addressed as they arose, clarifying aspects of the cooking process . In short, I will be saying in the newspaper articles that Annie must be one of the UK’s best teachers when it comes to basic fish and shellfish preparation . If you don’t know the basics, then it’s difficult to fly to higher places, and Annie covers the rudimentary seafood knowledge with great gusto and aplomb. Dining and Relaxation at Budock Vean Hotel Evenings at the Budock Vean Hotel offered a contrast to the daytime culinary activities. The hotel's setting provided a quiet atmosphere and we had a lovely meal in its restaurant and as well as a couple of excellent breakfasts. The service was attentive, and the hotel's common areas provided spaces for unwinding. Exploring the Helford Passage and Visiting the Ferry Boat Inn The outstandingly lovely grounds were ideal for short walks — although we took one slightly longer stroll to the excellent Ferry Boat Inn at the wonderful hamlet of Helford Passage — where, indeed, we enjoyed a lovely dinner one evening with Annie. It’s a great pub and I’d heartily recommend anyone to visit if they’re down in South Cornwall . For more details about My Fish Kitchen visit https://www.myfishkitchen.co.uk/ To find out more about The Budock Vean Hotel visit https://www.budockvean.co.uk And for the Ferry Boat Inn at Helford visit https://www.ferryboatcornwall.co.uk/

The Enchanting Landscape of West Dorset Certain corners of the landscape somehow hold or retain a greater air of mystery and intrigue than others. There’s no real reason for this - maybe something to do with the curvature of hills or a sense of intimacy promoted by the lay of the land. But somehow, when the contours combine and the geology and the flora and fauna all come together in one glorious orchestration, you can find yourself in a place that is not only different from the rest, but altogether more alluring. Exploring Ridge and Vale Country in West Dorset That is what I was thinking as I climbed a steep hill in West Dorset last week. For this is ridge-and-vale-country and as such it pulls of the difficult trick of combining grandeur on a large scale with a comfortable intimacy that would make any self-respecting Hobbit beam from ear-to-ear. There’s nowhere else quite like it, certainly in the Westcountry. Ever since I read Geoffrey Household’s, The Rogue Male , as a boy I’ve been captured by the idea of West Dorset’s great ridges, its rich verdant vales and its secret hollow lanes. Cider Orchards in Bloom Across the Marshwood Vale And, in later years, I’ve also been intrigued by its orchards. For this is very much a cider-country. You will, at this time of year, spy the apple-tree’s tell-tale blossoms sparkling white and pink down in the goyals and side-valleys which descend in their intricate multitude to prove water and life to places like the wide and fertile Marshwood Vale. A Journey With Cider Expert James Crowden As such, it is an area much-explored by the nation’s greatest writer on all things apples and cider, James Crowden, who happens to live nearby. Regular readers of these pages will remember James - he’s a great friend of Hesp Out West and as such he occasionally prepares little adventures for me, and therefore you dear readers, to enjoy. Cider Bottles, Forgotten Signposts, and Dorset Tales A week ago he sent me an invitation… “Come to my place and we will cross the border into Dorset, climb the ridges, meet some interesting characters, ascend Pilsdon Pen, visit an ancient inn that has been rescued from the bulldozers and which will soon once again be serving wonderful ciders made locally - indeed, we can perhaps meet some of those cider-makers and try their wares.” In other words, it was the kind of day that promised nothing too scintillating or dramatic in particular, but a great deal in general. No big world-changing head-lines, but a rich crop of tiny, incidental, highly rural, stories. The sort of day that has the vaguest of beginnings and an even vaguer end. The kind of adventure, then, that suits Hesp Out West down to the fertile ground. Tim Beer: A Local Legend of West Dorset The first person we visited wasn’t all about cider, but partly about beer. Because his name is Tim Beer - a man who has lived in ridge-and-vale land all his life and who, as a consequence, has a great many stories to tell about the area. He has made cider, sold cider, and as a one-time road-mender for the county highways department, he has been down every single lane and byway of which there’s an absolute myriad down West Dorset way. We met Tim in his shed (man-cave really would fit the bill) in his cottage garden situated high on one of the ridges - and the reason we were there is because he had told James that he’d come across some ancient bottle of cider which he’d kept for years. Mr Crowden happens to be a collector and sampler of such things and so he brought along an equally ancient bottle of fermented apple juice for Tim to taste. Sampling Lost Ciders and Restoring Dorset Signposts A deep brown liquor was poured from Tim’s bottle which he opened with a great flourish but which was absolutely flat as village pond-water (although he described it in another much more colourful way). Actually, being dark brown it looked a little like pond-water, but the assembled throng applauded it as an absolute sensation. As the driver I literally dipped my tongue briefly into a glass, which was enough for me to conclude it tasted like a very fine sherry. Tim then proceeded to tell us all about the marvellous historic road-signs that clutter his shed. Many out in the wilds have become badly neglected over the years and Tim takes great pride, as a volunteer, in going out to rescue dilapidated examples and restoring them to their former glory. The circular-topped way-marks are one of the many mini-glories of the area. Climbing Pilsdon Pen: A West Dorset Icon “This one here was lying in a hedgerow for years and that’s why he’s all pitted. I’ve done my best to save it and we’ll put it back where he belongs,” said Tim, pointing to one old signpost before telling us some tales of the hair-raising variety all about his early years on the road-mending gangs. Apparently the first job at any new location in the “old days” was to find the best cider-farm locally where a barrel or two could be purchased a low-cost for the lubrication of the workers. “My family has been here for centuries,” he said in his rich Dorset accent. “My mother traced us back to 1530 - that’s how long we’ve been here as a family - right on the Dorset-Somerset border. Up until 1963 the house was in Dorset but the back wall was in Somerset - I’ve got one of the original boundary markers.” And so, onwards and-along-wards… We thought we’d best pay our respects to the area by climbing Pilsdon Pen. At 277 metres (909 feet), this mighty ridge crowned by an Iron Age hillfort was, for many years thought to have been the Dorset's highest point, offering panoramic views across the Marshwood Vale. However, modern surveys have revealed that its near neighbour, Lewesdon Hill, is slightly taller at 279 metres (915 feet), making it officially the county’s highest hill. The Bottle Inn and the Return of a Dorset Institution When you stand on Pilsdon Pen and look across at Lewesdon, it’s tempting to question this fact. Perhaps it’s the latter’s tall trees which give it the few extra feet - Pilsdon on the other hand is as bald as a peeled cucumber. I don’t know why I reach for such an unlikely analogy, save for the idea that you might need a peeled cucumber to soothe your tongue if you were ever tempted to take part in the stinging nettle eating competition at the local pub. The Bottle Inn is an ancient road-side inn situated a couple of miles south of Pildson and it achieved worldwide fame in the 1980s and 90s for staging the World Nettle Eating Championship. Resurrecting a Rural Pub: The Work of Tessa and Julian Blundy The place was boarded up for a few years after becoming pretty much rundown, but now it is close to being converted back to its former glory by a remarkable couple who have put an enormous amount of work and effort into what is a first-class renovation. Which is not exactly surprising given that the new landlady Tessa Blundy is an architect specialising in historic buildings - indeed her job for the past dozen years was helping to look after the Palace of Westminster. Husband, Julian, is a carpenter and together the two are doing a fabulous job of renovating the inn. They decided to retire to this corner of the Westcountry because Tessa’s relations had lived locally and she knew the place as a girl - indeed her family has a direct connection with the nettle-eating contest. The Origin of the Nettle-Eating Contest “They farmed just across the road and the legend is that there was an argument in the pub about whose land grew the tallest stinging nettles. One of them said that if anybody grew a stinging nettle longer than his, he would eat it - he was confident because he was going to win anyway. So you can imagine the result and in 1986 that gave rise to the competition. Lots of newspapers carried the story, Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall got involved, there were Japanese film crews - a huge amount of publicity - and that put the pub on the map.” Looking Ahead: A Pub for the Community The renovation is almost complete and the pub should be fully opened for business later this summer - and indeed is occasionally open for locals and passers-by. “Perhaps it was a mad decision to take on the project but Julian couldn't possibly live in a village without a decent pub,” laughed Tessa. “We saw the plight of the place and I started to get involved - and that was that, here we are hopefully opening soon a few years later.” And here’s a delightful and unusual bit of news. Unlike many people who come down from the city to take on a remote country pub, The Bottle Inn is not about to become a restaurant that happens to serve the odd pint of beer. Tessa and Julian plan for it to be a proper old fashioned pub where people call in for a pint of locally brewed beer or cider. “There’ll be a few bar snacks, like pasties, and that will be it,” says Tessa, who hopes to find a live-in manager or tenant once the place is up and running. Temple Cider: A Local Star in the Marshwood Vale “And events. We have a new function room and garden where we can stage lovely events,” she added. Including, no doubt, one very famous event that will see brave folk chewing on nettles. And when it comes to the cider that will be served the Blundys will not find a more local brand than Temple Cider. And, in my opinion, they will find very few better ciders. Paul Harrison and the Craft of Minimal-Intervention Cider Following our picnic lunch at The Bottle Inn, James Crowden took me three miles down the road to meet Paul Harrison and his partner Joanne Taylor who bought a local farm in one of Marshwood Vale’s many side-valleys back in 2013, with the intention of making very good cider. They have succeeded in that aim. Some of their Temple Ciders are among the best I have tasted. Which is not a bad accolade for a couple who came down from Derbyshire where they had planted a small vineyard with a view to making wine. From Engineering to Apple Fermentation “Yes, I suppose I do like to have a go at different things,” shrugged ex-engineer Paul as he showed around his state-of-the-art cider-making enterprise tucked away in a beautiful coombe filled with newly planted apple trees. “We realised we really enjoyed the cider-making and then started looking deeper into the idea of single apple variety ciders. One of the things we’re very keen on is minimal intervention. We don’t add or take anything away from- which is different from wine-making where you can add chemicals and so on to stabilise everything. “We’ve really gone down the road of taking the natural approach - just using what we’ve got and trying to get the best out of it,” added Paul. He is the second ex-engineer cider-maker to feature in Hesp Out West in recent months and I get the distinct feeling that if you are blessed with having that careful methodical approach, then you can make some very good and interesting versions of a drink that comes from a very temperamental base - ie fermented apple juice. The Temple Ciders really are very very good and I recommend trying them by visiting www.templecider.co.uk and purchasing a few bottles or cans.

Authentic Italian Cuisine at Masseria Il Frontoio, Puglia Slow Food, Farm-to-Table Dining, and True Puglian Hospitality I’m in the mood to talk about proper Italian food. Partly thanks to an old Rick Stein programme I’ve ust watched. Not just any Italian food, but the kind that makes you want to pack your bags and head straight for the heel of Italy's boot. I'm referring to Masseria Il Frontoio , a place that's not just a restaurant—it is something of a shrine to the Slow Food Movement . By which I mean: that good old-fashioned way of eating that doesn't involve rushing about and grabbing a pre-packed something-or-other. A Taste of Puglia: As Seen on Rick Stein’s Mediterranean Adventures I was re-watching Rick Stein's Mediterranean escapades the other day and there he was, tucking into a grand lunch at this very spot in Puglia . If Rick rates it, then it’s probably something special. This is no flash-in-the-pan eatery; it has a very, very long pedigree. It is a place where they care a great deal about the food and ingredients and where it comes from. A Historic Setting in the Heart of Southern Italy And the setting is special—especially if you visit the place on a baking hot day as I did a few years ago. Tucked away within the ancient, sun-baked walls of the masseria itself, you can almost feel the ghosts of generations past muttering stuff about olive oil and sun-ripened tomatoes. Meet the Man Behind the Masseria: Armando Balestrazzi Then there's the owner who spent some time chatting with us. Armando Balestrazzi is a bit of a character. Told me he only employs "zero-kilometre cooks – not chefs." “What we do here is preserve the soul of rural Puglia,” says Armando. “Our cooks are local women who learned everything from their mothers and grandmothers. They bring more than recipes—they bring memory and instinct.” What's that all about? Well, it's these lovely local women from the hills around Ostuni . They don't muck about with fancy techniques or imported ingredients. No, they stick to what they know—recipes passed down through their families, using only the best organic produce grown right on their doorstep . “The flavours don’t come from tricks—they come from the land,” Armando says. “When you eat here, you’re tasting our story, our soil, our seasons.” These aren't just cooks; they're custodians of tradition, with an instinct for when the broad beans are just right and which wild herbs will sing with a particular dish. There's no airs and graces in their kitchens, just the honest-to-goodness aroma of proper home cooking in Puglia . The Ultimate Puglian Feast: A Celebration of Local Ingredients A word of warning: when they say "lunch" in these parts, they mean a large meal that would keep most of us going for a couple of days. Five to ten courses. So, turn up hungry, and don't go filling up on the first plate of antipasti , tempting as it may be. This is a marathon, not a sprint. A leisurely, lengthy, unforgettable ramble through the glorious Puglian larder . Fresh vegetables, fragrant herbs, and some of the best olive oil in the world . Antipasti that could be a meal in themselves – cream cheeses like burrata , cured meats , olives... Then comes the handmade pasta , with simple sauces that let the ingredients do the talking. There could be hearty stews , grilled meats , or the freshest Adriatic fish . And just when you think you're done for, out come the cheeses and a homemade Puglian dessert . “Every dish we serve is part of a journey,” Armando says. “It’s not just food—it’s a cultural experience.” Experience the True Flavours of Southern Italy It's an experience to be savoured, a chance to slow down, enjoy the company, and truly appreciate the sheer bounty of this hot and fertile corner of Italy. Masseria Il Frontoio is not just a place to eat—it’s a place to remember what real food tastes like.

Cornwall Road Trip Delights: Award-Winning Beers, Butchers, and Harbour-Side Sourdough Pizzas We are creatures of habit, and one example we discussed recently in these pages is the regular port of call people make when they are travelling to certain places. I mentioned calling into Appledore on a drive back from Cornwall. If I’m going the other way I’ll often make a point of leaving the A30 at Launceston so that I can visit the truly excellent Philip Warren butchers’ emporium just off the main road. If you’re a carnivore and you are passing one of the best purveyors of meat in the country, you’d be mad not to. Stopping at Philip Warren Butchers in Launceston – A Carnivore’s Must-Visit on the A30 Imagine my delight, then, to discover there’s a first-class brewery located just behind the famous butcher shop. I called into the Firebrand Brewing Company the other day to try some alcohol-free beers and take home a selection of stronger ales, and very very good they were too. Up until now I’ve tended to avoid the low or alcohol free stuff, not because I am an alcoholic, but because it doesn’t often seem to have the mouthfeel or satisfaction of what I’d call “the real thing”. Firebrand Brewing Co – Craft Beer and Alcohol-Free Ale from Cornwall But Firebrand’s low or alcohol-free offerings are different. You can tell the young team which runs the operation thinks very hard about the challenge of making a fermented drink that has barely any alcohol. It’s good stuff - I’d be quite happy drinking either their zero ale or lager anytime I am the allotted driver. Best Places to Break a Journey on the Atlantic Highway (A39) By the way, if we go “the other way” to or from Cornwall (by which I mean, taking the Atlantic Highway route down past Bude and Wadebridge) it’s likely we’ll break the journey at one of the harbour towns or villages like Appledore along the way. On a recent trip we called in at Padstow where we discovered a really good new pizza place right by the harbour-side. The Stables proved to be exactly the right kind of destination for a perfect lunch. More about that establishment later… Visit Firebrand Brewing Co – From Farm Beginnings to Craft Beer Success Back on the A30 at Launceston, a good many readers will know how to find the Warren’s butchers’ emporium on the industrial estate located literally seconds off the main road. Just behind it, a little further into the estate, there’s what used to be a soft-play centre which now houses Firebrand’s state-of-the-art brewery and tap-room. It was there that I was lucky enough to meet Joe Thomson, co-owner and head brewer of Firebrand Brewing Co. He told me how the business started out in 2008 under the name Penpont Brewery, based in a local milking parlour in a farmyard, only to grow and later transition into Firebrand, with a leaning toward modern American-style craft beer, cask ales, and lagers. Today, the brewery supplies over 50 pubs, mostly in Cornwall and Devon, and also retail a range of beers and lagers in cans. There are nine core beers and make monthly seasonal brews, and a significant part of their business now includes alcohol-free beers, which they began producing about three years ago. Meet the Brewer: Joe Thomson and the Science Behind Firebrand Beers Joe started brewing at the age of 21, partly driven by a passion for the science behind the art of fermentation and also with a desire to make good beer. “I was doing a marine microbiology degree, so I am interested in the science behind microbiology - that is sort of my thing. And brewing is, effectively, applied science.” Joe agreed that setting up a new brewery in Cornwall was a bit like taking coals to Newcastle. “Cornwall really does push above its weight when it come to brewing - you’ve got St Austell and Sharps - but in some ways that means you can enjoy a name for quality through association. “However, we are a bit different - we make craft beer which is a little different to the traditional pint like Doom Bar or Tribute. Not that we are super-niche. We don’t make the really wild stuff that you can get from some places. We like to say it is accessible craft beer.” The Rise of Alcohol-Free Craft Beers in the South West I asked Joe to tell us about the low or alcohol free beers… “A few years ago I was trying to lose a bit of weight and, you know, trying to be a bit healthier. And I was trying some of the alcohol-free beers that were around - and I thought: I can do better. The challenge is really interesting. It is much harder to make. “There’s two ways to do it. You either make the beer and take the alcohol out, which requires incredibly expensive equipment that we don’t have - or you just do what’s called ‘brewing to strength’. I won’t go into all the technical details, but you make your mash really hot and that gives you more flavour, more body, than you’d normally get. You also select the right yeast to, again, give you more flavour. It is much harder to get right. “You end up with beer that’s 0.5 percent. That’s about the same small amount as you find in yoghurt or a banana. Some sourdough bread can go up to about one percent. And, no, of course you couldn’t get drunk on that - you could never eat enough for your body to metabolise it in time!” Firebrand has two main alcohol-free options: the Little Wave lager and the Shorebreak hazy pale ale. And sales are obviously going well… This year began with a record-breaking effort - their alcohol-free January sales were up 12% on the previous year and the brewery has enjoyed a huge 227% increase in subscriptions to their alcohol-free beers since the start of the year. Joe commented: “In the past, most of our revenue was generated in the summer beer drinking months, with another spike around Christmas. The first few months of the year were always very quiet, but since we started adding alcohol-free beer to our range, things have changed. Shorebreak and our more recently launched non-alcoholic lager, Little Wave, do a lot of the heavy lifting to support us in the quieter months at the beginning of the year. “Alcohol-free drinks used to be confined to Dry January and midweek occasions but that has all changed in the last few years so we are seeing much more consistent sales throughout the year and we continue to enjoy significant growth annually. This January, Shorebreak appeared on BBC1’s Saturday Kitchen and was named ‘Best Alcohol-Free Beer’ by The Guardian, which boosted sales even more.” The brewery has grown significantly, especially since 2021, and now employs 12 people plus taproom staff. They are exploring new developments like an alcohol-free stout and a lower-calorie lager. They also do pilot batches to experiment with new hops and techniques. Where to Eat in Padstow – The Stable Offers Sourdough Pizza and Westcountry Cider From beer to cider. And even better, fermented apple juice served alongside a very special fermented bread dough. That’s the combination I discovered on another trip to Cornwall recently when we called at Padstow for a break in our journey and a spot of lunch. Right there on the now world-famous harbour-side, we discovered a newly opened pizza restaurant called The Stable, which not only specialises in sourdough pizzas but also serves an impressive range of West Country ciders. It’s part of a fast growing chain based here in the South West - The Stable has other restaurants in places like Bristol, Plymouth, Bath, Falmouth and Newquay (Fistral beach) - which is a great thing for the region because the company takes great care to partner with local producers. When we called in (for what turned out to be a truly first class pizza) the other day I was able to have a quick chat with restaurant manager Charley Paines, who told me her team was particularly proud of the sourdough which is used in all their offerings. “We use a special sourdough starter called ‘Jerry’ who is probably the longest serving employee of The Stable. He’s been with the company since the beginning. We feed him everyday. So our sourdough makes us a little bit special, but so too does the range of Westcountry produce. That was always going to be important in what we offer at The Stable. We are offering an interesting range of ciders so that visitors can have a taste of what the region is all about. “We work very closely with local growers and suppliers on the food side of things, so it’s good to be able to do the same thing with the drinks. For example, we serve Sandford Orchards cider from Devon and feature a locals' drinks menu, highlighting producers just up the road like the Bearded Brewery. I think in a world where craft beer seems to have taken over in a lot of places, we’re trying to be the front runners when it comes to bringing good quality artisan made ciders to the fore.” Sourdough Pizza and Local Cider by the Sea in Padstow I went for one of the signature dishes, a large, nicely thin and crisp pizza called the Blazing Saddle, featuring slow-roasted pulled beef, jalapeños, red onion marmalade and roasted red pepper. It really hit the spot as I sat in a warm and comfy window seat just a few feet from the water’s edge, watching the crowds pass-by on a sunny but chilly day. The new 120-seat Padstow restaurant is the first of The Stable venues to serve a new menu offering larger, thinner, crispier pizza bases, alongside other plates such as smashed burgers and classic fish and chips. The venue also serves the brand’s first-ever breakfast menu. Emma Blackmore, director of The Stable, later told me: ‘We’re excited to have opened in beautiful Padstow, a place loved by so many. We pride ourselves on value for money and exceptional tasting food, and we are delighted that so many locals and visitors are now enjoying our fresh sourdough pizzas, ciders, and new breakfast menu in our Padstow restaurant.” When I started writing about West Country food and drink just over 25 years ago, the idea that you could break a journey in the region to enjoy world-class pizza and award winning ciders on a pretty harbour-side - or pop in to a local brewery to buy some of the best beers in the land - would have been, alas, unimaginable. But these are the sort of treats which can be enjoyed nowadays with very little research or effort on the part of the consumer. And more power to their elbow, says I…

Warm Weather Awakens the UK’s Only Venomous Snake As spring sunshine begins to warm the West Country, adders—the UK’s only native venomous snake—are stirring from their winter slumber. Sightings have already been reported across local hills and heathlands. But despite these appearances, experts are concerned about the species’ long-term future. A few years ago I wrote the following two articles all about adders in the English hills. Adder Decline: A Growing National Concern Conservationists are warning that adder populations are declining across the UK. The primary causes are habitat loss, fragmentation, and the general deterioration of natural spaces. This decline, while potentially reassuring for nervous walkers and pet owners, represents a deeper issue: the vanishing of vital ecosystems. Efforts are now underway to track these elusive reptiles, with adder surveys being conducted nationwide in hopes of better understanding and protecting the species. Cornwall: A Possible Adder Haven While much of the UK sees shrinking populations, Cornwall appears to buck the trend. Experts say this coastal county may be one of the few places where adders are holding their ground. Adders are commonly found in dry heathlands and coastal scrub across Cornwall, meaning that wherever you are in the county, you're likely never far from one. While formal data is still limited, anecdotal evidence suggests local populations remain stable. When Are Adders Most Active—And Most Dangerous? With the arrival of warmer, longer days, the risk of snake bites is generally very low. However, dog walkers and hikers should still remain cautious—especially during the early mornings in spring. Adder behaviour is closely tied to body temperature. In cooler conditions, snakes tend to stay underground. In hot weather, they are fast and alert, often avoiding human contact altogether. But during that in-between period—when temperatures are just beginning to rise—adders may be sluggish and sunbathing in the open. This is when encounters (and potentially bites) are most likely to happen. So, if you're walking in known adder habitats, especially in early spring mornings, it's wise to stay on marked paths and keep dogs on leads. How to Help Monitor Adder Populations in Cornwall There is an ongoing national scheme to monitor adder numbers, and Cornwall plays an active role in this effort. Locals and visitors are encouraged to report adder sightings via the Online Recording Kernow and Scilly (ORKS) website: www.ORKS.org.uk This data contributes to a broader understanding of wildlife patterns across the region and supports conservation initiatives led by professional ecologists. Learn More About Cornwall’s Wildlife For those interested in learning more about Cornwall’s reptile populations—or any other aspect of the region’s diverse wildlife—there are excellent resources available. The Environmental Records Centre for Cornwall and the Isles of Scilly offers expert support and a wealth of ecological data for anyone passionate about local nature. Searching for Adders in the Somerset Hills There’s a solitary man walking slowly across the great heaths of the Quantock Hills with his head well and truly down. He has every reason to be studying the ground carefully—and if he also looks downcast, it’s because it’s hot and there’s not a cloud in the sky. This is no ordinary countryside stroll—Kevin Palmer is conducting an adder survey in Somerset , carefully scanning the undergrowth for signs of movement. Why Hot Weather Isn’t Ideal for Snake Spotting The hot weather, surprisingly, isn't good for spotting snakes in the Quantocks . Once adders warm up, they quickly retreat into the thick vegetation, making them harder to detect. “They don’t have to bask for very long to warm up—and once they’re hot enough they go back into the deep undergrowth where you haven’t got a chance of seeing them,” he explains. Expanding the Adder Survey in Somerset This adder survey, which began with historical data and sightings, has recently expanded. A team of volunteers from a local reptile and amphibian group in Somerset have joined the effort, helping to cover more ground across the Quantock Hills. “Originally we relied on sightings and historical data to pinpoint the approximate areas—and that allowed us to get surveying underway,” he says. “Now we have a volunteer scheme where people come and survey areas where there are unknown densities of adders—they’re looking for either the presence or absence of snakes.” Safe Snake-Handling: Equipment and Expertise Participants are trained in visual identification only—no one is allowed to touch or handle the snakes without proper qualifications and equipment. For those trained in safe adder handling , the tools include a long metal hook and a clear plastic restraining tube. “This is a very good way of restraining the snake without doing it any damage—it also ensures there is minimal hands-on for the person doing it,” he explains, demonstrating the method on a young female adder near Wilmott’s Pond. The snake is briefly captured, weighed, and then released—stress-free and unharmed. Why Protecting Adders Matters But why go to all this trouble for a creature so often misunderstood or feared? “The whole reason for doing the survey is to inform the local species action plan. It's acknowledged that the adder is a declining species in the UK and deserves protection—our data contributes toward informing those policies.” Better land management practices are being introduced as a result. Instead of large-scale burning (known as swayling), habitat managers now create mosaic habitats —patchy landscapes that provide refuge and movement corridors for reptiles like adders. “If you burn a large area, the adders get exposed to predators—it’s a real problem because they tend to be quite faithful to a particular site. They’ll stick to it rather than colonise other areas.” The Problem of Habitat Fragmentation A nationwide study is also underway to examine how isolated adder populations are struggling. Fragmentation limits dispersal and can lead to inbreeding. “There tend to be isolated fragmented patches where adders live—and if there are no dispersal opportunities, you do get inbreeding,” he says. “Once we know an area contains adders, we can administer appropriate techniques.” So far, the survey has identified four separate adder colonies in the central Quantocks, with an estimated 40 to 50 snakes. Do Adders Bite? Snake Safety in the UK You can’t talk to a snake expert without asking the obvious: has he ever been bitten? “No, I’ve not been bitten yet—I am waiting for it,” he says with a sigh. “But the whole bite thing does tend to mesmerise the public. Adders won’t bite by choice—they will generally move out of the way. Unless you mess around with them, there shouldn't be much risk.” Still, when working in adder country, it pays to keep your eyes firmly on the ground.

Discover a stunning spring walk in the Quantock Hills AONB With Easter arriving this month, now’s the perfect time to extol the virtues of staying at home — especially if your home patch happens to be the West Country. Easter falls late this year, and if the weather is even halfway decent, West Country roads will be heaving with holiday traffic. So, what better time to enjoy the pleasures of your local area? And what a patch we have. I’ve just spent a lovely weekend in West Cornwall, which always offers an abundance of things to do, taste, and explore — but I live in West Somerset, a region that arguably boasts an even richer variety of local treasures. From the vast wilderness of Exmoor to the rugged Bristol Channel coast and the secret Brendon Hills, West Somerset is a walker’s paradise. But my latest springtime adventure took me to the majestic Quantock Hills , and it ticked all the seasonal boxes. A Classic Quantock Walk: Bicknoller, Weacombe & Staple Plain Loop This particular hike — the Bicknoller, Weacombe, and Staple Plain circular walk — was one of the very first and very last routes I covered during my long-running Westcountry newspaper series, Hesp’s Hikes , later renamed Classic Walks . Over the years, I’ve written more than 670 hiking articles, covering over 3,350 miles and snapping more than 10,000 photos. I did much the same again when the series continued under its new title — so I’d like to think I’m qualified to recommend a walk or two. And I can confidently say this Quantock Hills walk is among the very best short hikes in Somerset. It begins in the impossibly charming village of Bicknoller and offers both the intimate magic of deep wooded coombes and the breathtaking expanse of wide panoramic views. For me, there was also the added joy of glimpsing the cottage where I spent the first six years of my life — a view from above that stirred deep, personal memories. Starting Point: Bicknoller Coombe Your gateway to this Quantocks AONB hike is Bicknoller Coombe, tucked into the northwest edge of the hills. It’s best to park by the village hall in Bicknoller — space is tight further up the lane. From there, a short walk leads to a gate and a left-turn footpath that skirts the moorland towards neighbouring Weacombe. This part of the trail is especially rewarding in spring. You’ll enjoy expansive views across the Vale of West Somerset , and if you’re lucky, you might even spot wild red deer. Weacombe and the Ridge Weacombe Valley announces itself with the dramatic erosion typical of the red sandstone Quantocks. The steep coombe climbs alongside a stream, eventually forking at its upper end. Take the right-hand path and ascend to Bicknoller Post — a landmark post standing at the junction of multiple valleys and ridges. From here, you’re on the main Quantocks ridge, offering what may be the best 360-degree views in the entire region. To the west lies the mighty Exmoor and Dunkery Beacon. Look south and east to take in the Blackdowns, West Dorset’s ridges, the Levels, and the Mendip Hills. Even the vast construction site of Hinkley Point C is visible — a curious modern contrast to the timeless landscape. Turn around, and the Bristol Channel unfurls to the north, with the Welsh coast and its high hills beyond. The scale and drama of the scenery here are simply unmatched. The Descent: Bicknoller Coombe or Thorncombe Barrow Continue south along the ridge, keeping right at various track junctions. Eventually, look out for the steep-sided Bicknoller Coombe once again. You have two options here: Descend directly into the coombe, tracing your steps back to the starting point. Continue a little further along the ridge, then descend via Thorncombe Barrow — a bold spur offering even better views as you drop toward the village. On a clear day, you might glimpse a steam train winding through the West Somerset countryside en route from Bishops Lydeard to Minehead. It’s from here I spotted my childhood home, nestled quietly in the rolling folds near Stogumber . At the base of the coombe, I’d highly recommend stopping at the Bicknoller Inn for a well-earned drink or meal — a perfect way to end this unforgettable Quantock hike . Why This Walk Belongs on Your Easter Itinerary Simple, not too taxing, and absolutely brimming with beauty — this route is a shining example of why hiking in Somerset is one of the best free things you can do this Easter. No long drives, no crowds, no fuss. Just you, the hills, and spring in full bloom. Full stop. End of argument. Fact File: Bicknoller to Bicknoller Circular Walk, Quantocks Walk Type: Circular Location: North Quantocks AONB, West Somerset Start Point: Village Hall Car Park, Bicknoller Route: Bicknoller → Weacombe Valley → Bicknoller Post → Bicknoller Coombe Distance: 4 miles Difficulty: Easy to moderate Map Needed: Ordnance Survey Explorer 140 Refreshments: Bicknoller Inn (end of route) Highlights: Panoramic views from Quantock ridge Hidden coombes and red sandstone valleys Wildlife sightings (red deer) Optional steam train views Historic West Somerset scenery

A Stand Against the Virtual World Hesp Out West is based on something I call the Campaign for Real Experiences (CARE) , vaguely inspired by CAMRA, the Campaign for Real Ale . More and more, people are finding themselves living in a virtual world —we spend too much time on screens and rely on digital technology for almost everything. There’s even news of a device that will allow you to taste or smell something you see on your screen , like a steak sizzling in a pan. Whatever next? Soon, we won’t need to leave our sofa. The entire experience I am about to describe comes thanks to something called “EU Fab 6 - Savour the PDO and PGI Wines and Deli Meats from Europe”, Campaign co-funded by the European Union - Reg. (UE) 1144/2014 I believe that CARE is going to become a thing . As robots take over, we humans will crave real-life experiences —simple, tangible activities that bring genuine joy. Whether it’s a fabulous coastal walk, like the one we enjoyed last week at Zennor , or visiting a bustling food market , these moments will become all the more precious. That said, there is always a middle ground . It’s not all black and white. Sometimes, new technology can actually enhance an authentic experience —and here’s an example of what I mean… The Best of Both Worlds: A Digital Window into Italian Food As a Guild of Food Writers member , I was invited to a webinar focusing on Italy’s traditional cured meats, or salumi . Being a greedy blighter, I was particularly interested because the organisers promised to send out a box of samples . So, I joined the three webinars on my iPad and found myself engrossed in talks by Augusto Cosimi , from the Consorzio Italiano tutela Mortadella Bologna . Not only was he an expert in his field, but his passion for the subject was infectious. Listening to one of the world’s leading specialists while sampling the sublime, savoury morsels made for a truly immersive experience . I was able to ask questions, learn about the history of these products, and enjoy the flavours all at once . What could be better? The Italian Delicatessen: A Shrine to Gastronomy Most food lovers will agree that a good Italian delicatessen is a treasure trove . We have some great examples here in the UK, but if you want to see a living shrine to a country’s love of food, you need to visit one in Italy . Walk into an Italian deli, and you’ll be met with a feast for the senses — Cured meats like Parma ham, salami, and mortadella. Cheeses such as Parmigiano Reggiano DOP, Pecorino Romano DOP, and Gorgonzola. Artisan breads and baked goods like focaccia, taralli Pugliesi, and grissini Torinesi. Great bowls of olives and preserved specialities , such as sott’olio vegetables (artichokes, mushrooms, and peppers in olive oil) and sun-dried tomatoes . Shelves stacked with delicacies like tonno in olio d’oliva and bottarga di muggine (salted, dried, and pressed mullet roe) . A vast range of different pasta shapes and rice . I often find myself wondering why every town in the UK doesn’t have a dedicated shop showcasing our own traditional delicacies. Yes, we have Stilton, Melton Mowbray pork pies, Cornish pasties, and Craster kippers , but where are the passionate advocates, the Augusto Cosimis of British food? Exploring Italy’s Signature Salumi Mortadella: More Than Just a Pink Sausage Mortadella is often misunderstood outside of Italy , with some comparing it to Spam. But do not ever let an Italian hear you say that! Mortadella is a work of carnivorous art , requiring high-quality pork, precise fat distribution, and an exacting cooking process . Unlike salami, which is cured raw, mortadella is gently cooked at a controlled temperature , giving it a silky texture and rich, delicate flavour . The best versions incorporate pistachios or black peppercorns for an extra layer of taste. While industrially made versions have tarnished its reputation outside Italy, in Bologna, mortadella remains a revered delicacy , best enjoyed in paper-thin slices with fresh baked bread or dry crackers . Look out for the red and yellow PDO label , which guarantees authentic quality. It’s not even hard to find—only last week, I spotted authentic PDO mortadella in a well-known German supermarket in my local town . Zampone & Cotechino Modena: A Taste of Tradition Far harder to find in the UK are zampone and cotechino Modena . I’d seen them hanging in Italian delis before, looking like mysterious, dismembered appendages , but I had no idea what they were until Augusto enlightened me. Both are seasoned, finely minced pork encased in natural skin , but each has its own character. Zampone is a deboned pig’s trotter filled with pork stuffing , a dish born of necessity during the siege of Mirandola in the early 16th century . Cotechino is similar but comes in a more conventional sausage casing . Both have a rich, almost gelatinous texture —not for everyone, but I loved them. They reminded me of a pink, meatier hog’s pudding . Traditionally simmered for hours , most are now pre-cooked and only need 20 minutes in hot water before serving . In Italy, they’re a New Year’s Eve staple , served with lentils, symbolising prosperity for the year ahead. Salamini Italiani alla Cacciatora DOP: The Hunter’s Salami A classic Italian cured sausage , known for its compact size and delicate flavour . Cacciatora means “hunter’s style” , as these small sausages were a staple for hunters needing portable protein . Made across central and northern Italy , they use finely ground pork, salt, black pepper, and plenty of garlic , aged slowly to develop a mild yet savoury flavour . They’re perfect on an antipasto platter with cheese, olives, and rustic bread . A Lesson in Sustainability If I were ever to go vegetarian for sustainability reasons, cured meats would be one of the things I missed the most . But, ironically, they are some of the most sustainable meat products —using every part of the animal, in line with the Italian philosophy of “niente si butta via” (nothing goes to waste) . And all of this, I was able to experience thanks to a truly authentic, yet digitally enhanced, food adventure .

The Tale of the Marion G Douglas – Ghost Ship Mystery Strange things can happen at sea. The ocean is not man’s natural habitat – he is already halfway to another world out there on the blue horizon – and, when something untoward occurs, it can seem all the more threatening and surreal amidst the waves. This is one of the most extraordinary stories I uncovered during my time as editor-at-large of the Western Morning News, South West England’s daily morning newspaper - and I repeat it here because I’ve been fascinated by the episode ever since I was told all about the Marion Douglas by an elderly Bryer man called Brian Jenkins. We are perplexed and fascinated by mysteries of the deep. We worry ourselves over things like the Bermuda Triangle , we drool with fear when it comes to sea monsters reaching up from the dark world beneath, and we become obsessed by such things as ghost ships . The story of the Marie Celeste has been fueling imaginations for years - there is something haunting and darkly supernatural about an empty, lifeless ship that has come sailing out of the night. So when my boat-designer brother told me about a single sentence he’d read in an old book - that referred to the “ West Country’s own Marie Celeste ” - I found myself overtaken with a determination to find out more. “All it says,” said John, “Is that the year was 1919 and a schooner called the Marion G Douglas fetched up in Scilly with no one on board.” Many phone calls and much cajoling later, I tracked down the uncanny and somewhat unlikely story of the Marion G Douglas ghost ship . Uncanny, because I cannot imagine how peculiar it must be to spy a ship sailing along with no one on board. Unlikely? Well, the story is extraordinary – but it happens to be true. The Mysterious Arrival of the Marion G Douglas Think what it must have been like for the people of the Scillonian island of Bryher , to spy such a vessel early one November morning in 1919. The First World War had just come to an end, and things were tough for the islanders. Even in far-flung Scilly , the world had been turned upside down for the past half-decade. Europe was now in the grip of a post-war struggle , and money was in short supply. Suddenly here was a mystery ship , plying her aimless way in a light autumnal wind a mile or two north of the island. The islanders saw she was heading for the rocks , but there was not a soul on deck who could steer her off. There was only one thing to do, and that was to launch the island’s two gigs – the Sussex and the Czar – and row out among the rocks and reefs. I reckon that climbing aboard the empty schooner must have taken a little nerve. The men must surely have wondered what horrors they were about to find. Mutilated bodies? Disease? But there were no stricken sailors – no corpses, no damaged human beings – either dead or alive. Nothing but empty bunks and cabins . Yet the boat was shipshape - there was nothing wrong with her steering gear, her masts, or sails. Her cargo of timber was intact. The Vanished Crew – A Maritime Enigma So where was the missing crew ? Such questions must have raced through the minds of the Bryher men - and 84 years later, I found myself asking the same. However, no reference book in my collection could offer a single clue – and an exhaustive search on the normally unbeatable Internet provided not a smidgen of information regarding the ghost ship of the Scillies . Many phone calls later, I eventually got hold of (the now late) Richard Barber , editor of the Tresco Times , who wrote a 160-page hardback book called Tresco Times - The Last Piece of England . Richard told me: “Yes, I know about the Marion G Douglas - in fact, I can’t for the life of me think why I didn’t put the story in my book. Anyway, to find out more you’ll have to talk to a Bryher man . Try Richard Jenkins ...” “Of course I know about the Marion G Douglas ,” said Mr. Jenkins from his home on Bryher . “You can’t grow up on this island without knowing all about her. She supplied the people of Bryher with some much-needed cash after the First World War . A record salvage reward it was at the time – for the islands at least. Kept the people of Bryher going I should think. My grandfather and uncle were involved. But the best man to talk to is Brian Jenkins , who lives over on St Mary’s now. He’ll tell you all about it.” Brian did indeed recall the ghost ship incident in detail, having heard all about it from his father, uncle, and grandfather. “They knew she was abandoned from the start,” Brian told me. “It was quite plain to see no one was on board. No, she wasn’t under full sail. They launched the gigs – there were about eight or nine men in each – 20 were involved altogether. Out they went and boarded her. I suppose it must have been a bit spooky now you mention it – they never knew what they’d find on board. Anyway, she was in good condition , so they put up her sails and brought her in between Bryher and Samson and moored her near Norrard Rocks off Rushy Bay . Later she was in St Mary Roads – I don’t know if it was for three or for six weeks.” Theories and Speculations Surrounding the Ghost Ship I asked Mr. Jenkins if he knew what happened to the schooner’s crew . “They’d apparently experienced some pretty poor weather off the American coast , and they were taken off by a passing steamer,” he replied. “They say she was abandoned 13 days before the Bryher men salvaged her.” By the way, I learned from a different source that her appearance in Scilly effectively scuppered the schooner’s captain from making a fraudulent insurance claim – saying that his ship had sunk . I don’t know if this is true or not, but I’d love to hear from any reader who might know… “I’ve never heard that, all I know is that they were landed in America ” said Brian. “Anyway, the salvage was good news for the islanders - she was a big fore-and-aft rigged schooner of 499 tons and her cargo of timber was all in good condition - so it all helped with the reward. My grandfather, William Edwin Jenkins , and my uncle were the two runners who took her up to Glasgow . ‘ Runners ’ is what they call the men who are put on a boat that’s being towed. They steer the vessel and re-attach the line if it parts – that sort of thing.” Mr. Jenkins concluded: “ £3,300 is what the islanders received for the salvage . That was a lot of money in those days, and I’ve heard it really helped what could have been hard times .” So, no big mystery after all. Unless you ask how a heavily laden ship with her sails stowed could be blown across the Atlantic in just 13 days…

Discover one of the Best Scenic Drives in the Lake District If you are planning a drive around the south-western reaches of the Lake District - as I was while staying at the amazing and exceptional hotel, The Samling - the following route makes for a thrilling an scenic drive. I started by driving north along Lake Windermere to Ambleside and then turning left on the A593 to head west towards Coniston Water. I’d recommend taking the lane that hugs the eastern shore of this lake. It’s a far more scenic and rewarding option than the main road that runs along the opposite bank, offering stunning glimpses of the lake through the trees, and occasional pull-ins where you can stop and admire the view. This quiet, winding route sets the tone for what is to come: a journey through some of the wildest, loneliest, and most breathtaking landscapes in England. Journey Through Remote Landscapes But we must rejoin the A593 and follow it south-west - it will eventually bring you to the tiny hamlet of Lower Hawthwaite, where the real adventure begins. Here, you can turn north onto a network of narrow, twisting lanes that climb into one of the least-visited areas of the Lake District. These lanes are often steep, occasionally rough, and certainly not for the faint-hearted, but the reward is thousands of acres of solitude and a sense of stepping back in time. The land here is rugged, unspoiled, and feels wonderfully remote—ideal for those who want to escape the crowds and experience the Lake District at its wildest. Stickle Pike and the Vast Wilderness of Ulpha and Birker Fells From here, the drive over Stickle Pike is nothing short of spectacular. The narrow road clings to the contours of the land, undulating over the hills with breathtaking views at every turn. Soon, you ascend into the vast, empty wilderness of Ulpha and Birker Fells, where the sense of isolation becomes even more profound. This stretch of road, taking you west and then north into Eskdale, is one of the wildest I’ve ever travelled in England. You can drive for miles without seeing another soul, save for the odd shepherd, fell-walker or a few scattered sheep staring at your intrusion into their domain. Driving Tips for Steep and Narrow Mountain Roads Before I go any further, a word of warning: if you are a nervous driver or uncomfortable on narrow, steep, and sometimes tricky roads, this is not the route for you. The lane twists and turns unpredictably, often with precipitous drops to one side and no safety barriers to offer reassurance. But for those who are confident behind the wheel , this is a thrilling drive, filled with dramatic scenery and a wonderful sense of remoteness. Conquering the Hardknott Pass – One of Britain’s Steepest Roads Once you’ve made your way down into the valley of Eskdale, the landscape softens slightly, though it remains gloriously rugged. The river Esk meanders through a broad valley, flanked by steep hillsides and dotted with charming old farmsteads. It’s a beautiful place, and in summer, you might be tempted to pause for a picnic beside the river or even a paddle in its clear, cold waters. But the real challenge lies ahead: the infamous Hardknott Pass. Driving east from Eskdale, the road suddenly begins to climb, and before you know it, you’re tackling one of the steepest and most treacherous roads in Britain. This is not a route for the underpowered car or the faint-hearted driver. With gradients reaching 33% (or 1 in 3 in old money), this is about as steep as roads get in this country, and there are hairpin bends that require both skill and solid nerves. I’ve driven some tough roads in my time, but this is up with the most challenging. For Mrs Hesp, who was gripping the seat with white knuckles as we crested the icy summit in January, it was an unforgettable (if slightly terrifying) experience. Superb Views from Wrynose Pass and Little Langdale If you survive the ascent, the descent is no less thrilling, dropping steeply into the deep valley of Wrynose Bottom, where for a moment, the landscape feels almost Alpine in its grandeur. But don’t get too comfortable—almost immediately, you’re climbing again, this time over the Wrynose Pass. While slightly less steep and intimidating than Hardknott, it still demands full concentration, particularly if you meet another vehicle on the way up. Despite the challenges, it’s an absolutely stunning drive, rewarding you at every turn with views that stretch for miles over the fells. By the time you descend Wrynose Pass, you will have covered some of the most exhilarating and remote miles in England, but the landscape now begins to soften. As the road winds into Little Langdale, the ruggedness gives way to a more pastoral charm. Here, the fields are greener, the valleys more sheltered, and the roads slightly easier to navigate. Passing Skelwith Bridge, you soon find yourself entering the delightful town of Ambleside, a place that feels almost bustling after the wild terrain you’ve just conquered. With its welcoming pubs, outdoor shops, and proximity to Lake Windermere, it makes an excellent place to rest and reflect on the drive. I stayed at the Rothay Manor in Ambleside which is a superb hotel and one which I’ll be reporting on in another article.

There will be many people reading this newspaper who love their own patch; the place where they were born and bred or the location where they’ve chosen to spend their lives. The problem is that you can become a bit snooty about other areas, like I did as a youngster when I had difficulty in understanding how anyone could feel any kind of affinity for any other part of Somerset. Childhood Memories and Early Misconceptions About the Somerset Levels I lived - and still live - in hill-bound West Somerset, but my grandfather came from the dead flat part of the county. When I was a boy he had a sister who still resided there and every now and again there’d be a family trip to see Great Aunt Queenie on The Somerset Levels . I used to feel depressed by the idea that anyone could live in a place that seemed so dreary and… Well, flat. Rediscovering the Somerset Levels Through Walking Back then my brothers and I would ignore the huge skies mirrored by the great sheets of water in winter, and the vast flocks of birds which lived (and live) between these two all-embracing elements which are much diminished in hill-country. We could only relate to the absolute boredom of a Sunday afternoon spent among God-fearing Non-Conformist Christians. A Glimpse into Rustic Life: Memories of Great Aunt Queenie Moreover, Queenie’s little cottage was what you’d call “rustic” - so much so that if I were to go into a schoolroom today and describe the way she lived, no youngster would believe that anyone alive in the 21st Century could possibly remember such a “medieval” scene. Talk about minimalist. There was nothing, absolutely nothing, designed for comfort. The two-up-two-down had bare floors and only a few bits of basic wooden furniture. There was no electricity, water came from a well in the garden. Poor Aunt Queenie… Her hand was chopped off in an industrial accident in a cheese factory, but she still managed to play the organ at Aller church. Falling in Love with the Somerset Levels: A Writer’s Revelation I was remembering all this decades later when I got a job writing weekly walks for the regional newspapers. An editor asked me to make sure the entire region would be represented - and with some reluctance I realised I’d have to develop some hikes in and around the Somerset Levels . And guess what? I fell in love with the place. The Unique Charm of the Somerset Levels Landscape There is something unique and special about this plain and its peat bogs. Something fascinating about the fact that, until relatively recently, it was nothing but an inland sea. Located in the very heartland of the South West peninsula, this flat, rich, alluvial place of pastures gave Somerset its old-fashioned name, “ Land of the Summer People .” The Agricultural Heritage of Somerset: From Transhumance to Cheddar Cheese It played a part in that most ancient of all human endeavours - the act of transhumance - or the taking of grazing herds and flocks from winter to summer pasture. No wonder the world’s most famous cheese (or the system of making Cheddar cheese ) was developed on the edge of this fertile zone where the grass seemed to grow on nature’s steroids. Hidden Treasures: Why the Somerset Levels Are Overlooked The Levels might not be the Westcountry’s most secret destination, but they are, arguably, the most overlooked. Both the main rail and road links in and out of the far South West pass right across the plain, but comparatively few visitors leap off a train or leave the motorway. They are missing out - the dead-flat polders hide wonderful landscapes which are just as worthwhile visiting as any cove, national park or high moorland they’ll find towards the setting sun… Wildlife Wonders: Starling Murmurations at Ham Wall Of course, the place has become better known in recent years. The RSPB reserves alone have put The Levels on the map - and the winter starling murmurations at places like Ham Wall are now much-celebrated wildlife events. Exploring Langport: A Trendy Transformation in Somerset Then there are the charming towns and villages with their Flemish-influenced architecture . I do not recall Langport being much to write home about when I was working as a young reporter in Somerset 50 years ago, but now it’s a trendy bustling place with smart cafes and shops and even its own community solar-powered cruise boat which plies its way up and down the River Parrett in the summer. Uncovering Somerset’s Stories: Floods, Festivals, and Fascinating Characters Mention of him reminds me of the countless other stories I’ve covered, walks I’ve enjoyed and characters I have encountered on the Somerset Levels during my journalistic career. The Great Somerset Floods of 2013/14: A Personal Account One of the main news events, of course, was the dreadful flooding in 2013/14 when a great swathe of the area turned into England’s largest temporary lake. Indeed, one of the strangest journalistic adventures I ever had was when a local resident called Michael Brown came to collect us in a boat at Thorney , more than 20 miles from the sea. Environmental Concerns: The Burrowbridge Choke-Point and Flood Prevention Later, during the immediate aftermath of the floods, Glastonbury Festival’s Michael Eavis and I walked across The Levels to see the place where the Rivers Tone and Parrett meet. According to locals it was this un-dredged choke-point which had been partly responsible for the great floods of 2013-14. Celebrating Somerset’s Eccentric Characters and Cultural Heritage People and places… The Levels were just a small part of the huge South West patch I covered as a newspaper feature writer, but they did always seem to play host to a treasure trove of humanity, as well as stories of environmental interest. The Art of Pottery: Remembering John Leach and His Legacy One of my favourites was my old friend, the late John Leach . The excellent Leach Pottery is still open for business and run by his family and colleagues - but I have memories of long philosophical chats in the kitchen, and of walks around Johnny’s own private nature reserve. Aller Walk: A Scenic Hike Through Somerset’s Heartland Many are the times I’ve enjoyed on The Levels since the days when I used to think it was a dreary kind of place best avoided. And I have just found a copy of the very first newspaper hike I did in the area, which is what reminded me of dear, long-departed Great Aunt Queenie… Aller Walk Route Details Basic Hike: From Oath on the bank of River Parrett , north-east along footpath to Aller Church . Then north-west along Aller Drove to Pathe Bridge , taking footpath on the left to return along Sowy River to the car. Recommended Maps: Explorer 140 (Quantock) and 128 (Taunton). Distance and Terrain: Four miles, easy going (especially when dry).