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  • Cornish Walks: Breathtaking Coastal Hike West of Fowey

    West of Fowey - A Stunning Coastal Walk in Daphne Du Maurier Country Explore the beautiful coastal town of Fowey in the West Country with a breathtaking walk westward. This scenic trail offers stunning views, historical landmarks, and a unique landscape that caters to a wide range of walkers. Fact file Basic hike: From Fowey, head westward along the coastal path, passing through the Menabilly peninsula, and eventually joining the South West Coast Path. Recommended map: Ordnance Survey 107 – St Austell and Liskeard. Distance and going: Approximately 3.5 to 4 miles (depending on the specific route taken and exploration of sites along the way). Setting Out on Your Fowey Coastal Walk Begin your walk at the car park near the Bodinnick Ferry or head straight to Readymoney Cove . As you set out, you'll be greeted with picturesque views of the charming town and its surrounding landscape. Following the Coastal Path West from Fowey Venture westward from Fowey on the coastal path, taking in the serene views of the water and the rolling hills. The trail offers a blend of coastal and inland scenery, providing a diverse and engaging walking experience. Exploring the Menabilly Peninsula on Your Fowey Walk As you continue your walk, you'll pass through the Menabilly peninsula, made famous by Daphne Du Maurier's novel, Rebecca . The area offers a touch of literary history, as well as stunning views of the Cornish coast. Highlights and Landmarks on Fowey's Westward Coastal Walk During your walk, you'll encounter various highlights and landmarks, such as the beautiful cove at Polridmouth and St. Catherine's Castle . These sites add historical and cultural interest to the already captivating scenery. South West Coast Path on Your Fowey Walk Along much of this walk you will be on the South West Coast Path . This iconic trail offers breathtaking views of the coastline and the opportunity to explore further along the coast - or you can return to Fowey by using inland rights of way. Experience the Beauty and History of Fowey's Coastal Walk Fowey's westward coastal walk provides an unforgettable experience, combining natural beauty, historical sites, and literary connections. Whether you're a seasoned walker or looking for a leisurely stroll, this trail offers a perfect opportunity to immerse yourself in the West Country's stunning landscape.

  • Cornish Walks: Malpas

    Exploring Malpas: A Watercolour Wonderland My travels to Malpas in Southern Cornwall may be rare, but when they occur, I can't help but become poetic. This picturesque village seems to be designed by watercolor artists, hanging over the river like a dreamy scene. Whether arriving by boat or car, Malpas offers a unique and charming experience. Malpas Exploration Essentials Hike: Circular route from Malpas to St Clement and back Map: Ordnance Survey Explorer 105 Distance and Terrain: Approximately 3.2 miles; may be muddy in some areas Boat Access: A Poetic Journey to Malpas There's something magical and other-worldly about arriving in Malpas by boat. For over 1000 years, the village has welcomed boats to its treacherous crossing, named after the old Norman French term for "dangerous passage." The treacherous crossing, indeed, where legend has it that Tristan and Iseult (or Isolde if you prefer) managed to trick that royal husband of hers. The story goes that she had returned to the cuckolded king and was being taken to his manor at Blancheland (thought to be Goodern in nearby Kea) where she'd be expected to make a vow that she'd always remained faithful to him. Iseult was somewhere between a rock and a hard place, but being a fast-thinker and she arranged for Tristan to be at the crossing place disguised as a leper. In Beroul's romantic tale he offers to carry the good lady across the river and in doing so stumbles and falls. They both wind up on the floor and later, when Iseult is asked, she can truthfully say that she has never lain with any man other than her husband - and, of course, the leper at the river. Exploring Malpas and Beyond: A Scenic Stroll to St Clement Venture on a delightful journey around the cape formed by the Tresillian and Truro Rivers. The walk takes you across the hill to the enchanting village of St Clement and back, just in time for a refreshing pint at the Heron Inn. First part of the walk route The hike’s first path is easy to find being just across the road from the landing stage in the middle of Malpas. For the first 100 yards or so as it climbs away from the river, you might wonder if you're trespassing in someone's private garden. But fear not, it is a public right of way... I imagine that men have been using this track to get to the ferry crossing since time immemorial, so worn is the groove between the narrow hedges that ascend Bar Meadows.  Near the top of the hill it widens out and you can proceed north along a fine broad track until you reach the road. Along the way take a peek over the left hand hedge to catch a glimpse of what must be the very best view of Truro that you'll get anywhere.  Historic Tales and Legends of Malpas Malpas is steeped in legends, such as the story of Tristan and Iseult (or Isolde), who managed to trick Iseult's royal husband at the treacherous crossing. This romantic tale adds to the allure of the village, making it a fascinating destination for history enthusiasts. Second part of walk route As soon as you reach the tarmac road, turn right down a track marked as a public right of way. This descends to join a field which you cross to reach the far hedge, where another ancient path disappears down another well-worn groove towards the east. Excellent for badgers and people under the height of four or five feet, this brambly tunnel will deliver you looking like something dragged out of a hedge backwards, but otherwise safe and sound, to the hamlet of St Clement. Uncovering the Idyllic Hamlet of St Clement The charming hamlet of St Clement is a small piece of heaven disguised as a Westcountry hideaway. The picturesque church, graveyard, and cottages make it a must-visit destination during your Malpas exploration. The Secret Path Back to Malpas Discover the lesser-known riverside path called Dennis Lane, which winds along the water's edge from St Clement back to Malpas. This scenic trail offers a refreshing alternative to the more conventional hill route. Tresillian to Truro: A Riverside Adventure Extend your exploration by strolling along the riverside path from Tresillian to Truro, and return by bus. This enjoyable journey showcases the beauty of Cornwall's coastal landscape. Martin's Must-Visit Malpas Recommendations The Heron Inn : A delightful establishment offering great food and refreshing pints. Kea Plums: Sample the famous local plums and their blossoms in and around Cowlands Creek.

  • Rhubarb Rhubarb

    As the winter months subside and spring begins to make itself known, one of nature’s most vibrant and versatile treats emerges in our gardens. With its distinctively tart flavour and striking pink hue, rhubarb has long been a favourite ingredient in both sweet and savoury dishes.  The pink stalks thrusting skywards in my garden seem to be in particularly fine fettle - which is a kind of miracle given that most plants I grow are instantly eaten by marauding pests. However, everything from tiny slugs to large wild deer seem happy to leave this strange plant well alone - maybe because the leaves contain a concentration of oxalic acid which is, of course, why we humans don’t touch them.  But now that it’s emerging happily unscathed, what to do with this most seasonal of crops?  One of the most traditional ways to enjoy rhubarb is, of course, in a classic crumble - and who doesn’t love a crumble? The combination of the tender, tangy rhubarb with a sweet, buttery crumble topping, seems to create a perfect balance of flavours and textures.  But this year I might also go down the rhubarb chutney route. The tangy, sweet, and slightly spicy concoction pairs wonderfully with roasted meats, cheeses, and sandwiches. It can also be used as a glaze for grilled chicken or pork, adding an unexpected and zingy burst of flavour to many a meal. We should regard the arrival of rhubarb in early spring as a true culinary delight. Its unique flavour and versatility make it a very useful ingredient in a wide range of dishes, from comforting desserts to tangy chutneys. I have ignored the delights of this pest-defying garden hero for too long - I will not be doing so this weekend. Here’s a recipe an American friend sent me… Sweet and Tangy Rhubarb Pickle Prep time: 15 minutes Cook time: 20 minutes Rest time: 1 week Ingredients: 4 cups fresh rhubarb, chopped into 1/2-inch pieces 1 cup apple cider vinegar 1 cup granulated sugar 1/2 cup water 1/2 cup red onion, thinly sliced 2 cloves garlic, minced 1 tablespoon fresh ginger, grated 1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes (optional, for heat) 1/2 teaspoon whole mustard seeds 1/2 teaspoon whole coriander seeds 1/4 teaspoon whole black peppercorns 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt 1 bay leaf Instructions: In a medium-sized saucepan, combine apple cider vinegar, sugar, water, red onion, garlic, ginger, red pepper flakes (if using), mustard seeds, coriander seeds, black peppercorns, salt, and bay leaf. Bring the mixture to a boil over medium heat, stirring occasionally to dissolve the sugar. Once the mixture has come to a boil, reduce the heat to low, and let it simmer for 10 minutes. This will allow the flavors to meld and the spices to release their essential oils. Add the chopped rhubarb to the saucepan, and gently stir to coat the rhubarb in the pickling liquid. Simmer for another 5-7 minutes, or until the rhubarb is just tender but still retains its shape. Be careful not to overcook the rhubarb, as it can become mushy. Remove the saucepan from heat and let the mixture cool to room temperature. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the rhubarb and onions into clean glass jars, leaving about 1/2-inch headspace from the top of the jar. Pour the pickling liquid over the rhubarb, ensuring that it is fully submerged. Seal the jars with airtight lids and store in the refrigerator for at least one week before consuming. This allows the rhubarb to absorb the flavours of the pickling liquid and develop a pleasant, tangy taste. Enjoy your sweet and tangy rhubarb pickle as a condiment with cheese and crackers, in salads, or as a side dish with grilled meats. The pickle will keep in the refrigerator for up to one month. Notes: To ensure food safety, use clean, sterilized jars and lids for storage. For a sweeter pickle, increase the sugar by 1/4 cup. Feel free to experiment with different spices, such as adding whole allspice berries or a cinnamon stick for a unique flavour profile.

  • Marienburg Castle: A Majestic Fortress in Lower Saxony

    Marienburg Castle, located in the region of Lower Saxony in Germany, is a stunning example of neo-Gothic architecture that dates back to the 19th century. With its breathtaking turrets, towers, and ramparts, the castle is a popular tourist attraction that draws visitors from all over the world. In this article, we will take a closer look at the history and architecture of Marienburg Castle, as well as the attractions and events that make it a must-see destination. History of Marienburg Castle Marienburg Castle was built by King George V of Hanover as a summer residence for his wife, Queen Marie. Construction began in 1858 and was completed in 1867. The castle was designed by the German architect Conrad Wilhelm Hase, who drew inspiration from medieval Gothic architecture. The castle was originally intended as a private residence for the royal family, but it was later opened to the public as a museum. Architecture of Marienburg Castle Marienburg Castle is a masterpiece of neo-Gothic architecture. The castle's exterior is adorned with intricate stonework, turrets, and battlements that give it a majestic appearance. The interior of the castle is just as impressive, with its grand halls, lavish furnishings, and impressive collection of art and antiques. Visitors can explore the castle's many rooms and admire the intricate details of the architecture. Attractions at Marienburg Castle In addition to the castle itself, Marienburg Castle offers visitors a range of attractions and activities. The castle's museum features a vast collection of art and artefacts, including paintings, sculptures, and historic documents. Visitors can also take guided tours of the castle and learn about its history and architecture. My favourite part was the massive old kitchen filled with wonderful appliances from yesteryear. The castle's grounds are also a popular destination for visitors. The castle is situated on a hill overlooking the Leine Valley, and the views from the castle grounds are breathtaking. Visitors can also explore the castle's gardens, which feature a variety of trees, shrubs, and flowers. Events at Marienburg Castle Marienburg Castle is a popular venue for events, including weddings, concerts, and cultural festivals. The castle's grand halls and beautiful gardens provide a stunning backdrop for any occasion. Visitors can check the castle's website for a schedule of upcoming events. Conclusion Marienburg Castle is a true gem of Lower Saxony, a majestic fortress that showcases the beauty of neo-Gothic architecture. Whether you are a history buff, an art lover, or simply looking for a beautiful place to visit, Marienburg Castle is a destination that should not be missed. So why not plan a visit today and discover the beauty and history of this magnificent castle for yourself?

  • Visit Hanover, or Hannover if you prefer

    A Perfect Day in Hanover City Centre: The Ultimate Guide for the Average Tourist We recently visited Hanover city centre with a group from the British Guild of Travel Writers - here’s a brief round-up of some of the must-visit spots for the average tourist looking to experience the best the city has to offer in a single day. By the way, I am spelling Hanover the old British way - in Europe it’s Hannover… Hanover’s bustling city centre is rich with history, culture, and beautiful architecture, making it a must-visit destination for any traveller in Northern Germany. We were very fortunate in having an experienced guide in the form of Elke Siebert, who works for Hanover’s Tourism Bureau and who is eloquently passionate about her home city. Start Your Day at Kröpcke Square Begin your Hanover adventure at Kröpcke Square, the city's central meeting point, bustling with shops, cafes, and restaurants. Snap a photo with the iconic Kröpcke Clock, a Hanover landmark, before stopping at a nearby bakery for a delicious German breakfast. Stroll Down Georgstraße Next, make your way down Georgstraße, Hanover's main shopping street. Lined with trendy boutiques, international chains, and local shops, this pedestrian-friendly street is perfect for window shopping or finding unique souvenirs. Explore the New Town Hall A short walk from Georgstraße will bring you to the stunning New Town Hall (Neues Rathaus), an architectural masterpiece dating back to 1913. Be sure to take the unique arched elevator to the observation platform for breathtaking views of the city. Wander Through the Royal Gardens of Herrenhausen Escape the hustle and bustle of the city centre and take a stroll through the beautiful Royal Gardens of Herrenhausen. These meticulously maintained Baroque-style gardens feature fountains, sculptures, and vibrant flowerbeds that will leave you in awe. Discover Hanover's History at the Historical Museum Delve into Hanover's rich past at the Historical Museum (Historisches Museum). This fascinating museum showcases the city's evolution, from its medieval beginnings to its current status as a thriving cultural hub. Satisfy Your Hunger at Markthalle After a morning of exploration, refuel at Markthalle, Hanover's bustling market hall. Sample local delicacies, such as currywurst and traditional German pastries, while soaking up the lively atmosphere. Admire the Church of St. Michaelis Don't miss the Church of St. Michaelis, a beautiful example of North German Baroque architecture. Its impressive façade and stunning interior make it a must-visit on your Hanover city centre tour. Relax in the Eilenriede City Forest Wind down your day with a leisurely walk through the Eilenriede, one of Europe's largest city forests. With over 1,600 acres of green space, it's the perfect spot to relax and reflect on your day. With its rich history, picturesque parks, and vibrant shopping streets, Hanover city centre is a perfect destination for the average tourist. By following this guide, you can experience the best of Hanover in a single day, leaving you with lasting memories and a newfound appreciation for this charming German city. By the way, the BGTW group stayed at the amazing Hotel Maritim at Hanover Airport throughout our visit to Lower Saxony - and a very good choice it was too… A Convenient and Comfortable Stay - with exceptional amenities and and unbeatable location of Hotel Maritim Hanover Airport. Hotel Maritim Hanover Airport is a top choice for travellers seeking convenience and comfort. Located just steps from Hanover Airport (HAJ), this 4-star hotel offers an array of amenities, including spacious rooms, a modern fitness centre, and delectable dining options. With its unbeatable location and exceptional service, Hotel Maritim Hanover Airport is the perfect choice for a stress-free stay in Hanover.

  • A Fascinating Visit to Autostadt in Wolfsburg: An Unforgettable Automotive Adventure

    Introduction: Autostadt in Wolfsburg , Germany, is a must-visit destination for car enthusiasts and families alike. This exceptional automotive theme park offers a glimpse into the world of Volkswagen and its subsidiary brands, combining entertainment, education, and innovation in one spectacular venue. From car museums to driving experiences, Autostadt is a one-of-a-kind adventure which petrol-heads will not want to miss. In this article, we'll take you on a virtual tour of the park and showcase some of its most captivating features. Autostadt's Eye-Catching Architecture and Landscaping The Autostadt complex is a masterpiece of modern architecture, featuring stunning glass pavilions and lush green landscapes. Marvel at the Car Towers, two futuristic, high-rise glass structures housing hundreds of new cars. You can witness the fascinating process of automated car retrieval and delivery, a testament to cutting-edge technology. The Volkswagen Group Forum - A World of Automotive Innovation The Volkswagen Group Forum is Autostadt's heart, where visitors can explore various exhibits dedicated to Volkswagen's subsidiary brands. Discover the history, design, and technological advancements of Audi, SEAT, Škoda, Lamborghini, Porsche, Bentley, and Bugatti. Each brand pavilion showcases interactive displays, allowing you to learn about the car manufacturing process and the latest trends in sustainable mobility. The ZeitHaus Museum - A Journey Through Automotive History The ZeitHaus Museum, Autostadt's most visited attraction, is a must-see for any car enthusiast. With over 260 vehicles on display, the museum chronicles the evolution of the automobile, featuring iconic models from various eras and manufacturers. Explore the history of the Volkswagen Beetle and the innovative Golf, and admire masterpieces from Ferrari, Mercedes-Benz, and Rolls-Royce. Hands-On Driving Experiences For an adrenaline-pumping adventure Autostadt offers various driving experiences, from off-road courses to safety training sessions. Put your skills to the test in the All-Terrain Tracks, navigating challenging obstacles and terrain. Or, participate in the Safety Driving Center to learn advanced driving techniques and experience simulated hazardous road conditions. Family-Friendly Attractions and Entertainment Autostadt caters to visitors of all ages, with interactive exhibits, workshops, and play areas designed for children. The MobiVersum offers kids the opportunity to explore the world of mobility, with hands-on activities and educational programs. Additionally, enjoy seasonal events, such as the Summer Festival and Winter Wonderland, for unforgettable memories with the whole family. Hotel Ritz Carlton Wolfsburg The Hotel Ritz Carlton Wolfsburg is a haven of luxury and elegance for discerning travellers. With its striking modern architecture, unparalleled service, and world-class amenities, this five-star hotel offers an unforgettable stay for both leisure and business guests. Sophisticated Rooms and Suites with Breathtaking Views The Hotel Ritz Carlton Wolfsburg features 170 elegantly appointed guest rooms and suites, designed to provide ultimate comfort and relaxation. With floor-to-ceiling windows, guests can enjoy captivating views of the Autostadt, the iconic Volkswagen plant, or the serene harbour. Each room and suite boasts plush bedding, luxurious bathrooms, and state-of-the-art technology, ensuring a memorable stay. Culinary Delights at the Hotel Ritz Carlton Wolfsburg The hotel is home to an array of exquisite dining options, catering to diverse tastes and preferences. Indulge in a fine dining experience at the Michelin-starred restaurant Aqua, where Chef Sven Elverfeld showcases modern European cuisine with a creative twist. For a more casual atmosphere, visit the Hafenterrasse, offering international dishes and stunning waterfront views. Additionally, the hotel's Lobby Lounge and Newman's Bar provide the perfect ambiance for enjoying a relaxing drink or light meal. Unwind at the Soothing Spa and Wellness Centre The Ritz Carlton Wolfsburg's Spa and Wellness Centre is the perfect sanctuary to rejuvenate both body and mind. The extensive spa menu offers a variety of treatments, including massages, facials, and body therapies, using high-quality products and techniques. Guests can also take advantage of the heated outdoor pool, fitness center, and relaxation area, ensuring a truly invigorating experience. Savouring the Culinary Delights of Autostadt After a day of exploration, treat yourself to the diverse culinary offerings of Autostadt. With eight on-site restaurants, you can choose from a range of international cuisines, including Italian, Asian, and Mediterranean fare. Don't miss the opportunity to dine at the Michelin-starred restaurant Aqua, offering an unforgettable gourmet experience. Conclusion: A visit to Autostadt in Wolfsburg is a thrilling journey into the world of automobiles, showcasing the perfect blend of innovation, history, and entertainment. Whether you're a die-hard car enthusiast or simply looking for a unique, family-friendly destination, Autostadt is a must-visit attraction that promises an unforgettable experience.

  • Discovering the Historical and Cultural Gems of Wolfenbüttel: A Comprehensive Guide

    Introduction We visited the remarkable and history-rich town of Wolfenbüttel when the British Guild of Travel Writers was invited on a tour of Lower Saxony recently. It is a picturesque town that combines rich history, stunning architecture, and a vibrant cultural scene. This hidden gem attracts history buffs, architecture enthusiasts, and tourists from all around the world. In this comprehensive guide, we will explore the top attractions, events, and experiences that make Wolfenbüttel a must-visit destination. The Magnificent Herzog August Bibliothek A trip to Wolfenbüttel would be incomplete without visiting the Herzog August Bibliothek (Duke August Library). This historic library, founded in 1572, is a treasure trove of knowledge and a UNESCO Memory of the World site. Housing over 900,000 books, including rare manuscripts and incunabula, the library offers an unparalleled experience for bibliophiles and history enthusiasts alike. The Splendid Wolfenbüttel Schloss The Wolfenbüttel Schloss (Wolfenbüttel Castle) is an architectural masterpiece that serves as a symbol of the town's rich history. Constructed in the 16th century as the residence of the dukes of Brunswick-Lüneburg, the castle features magnificent interiors, including the opulent Goldener Saal (Golden Hall). Guided tours offer insights into the castle's fascinating past, making it a must-visit attraction. Exploring the Charming Old Town Wolfenbüttel's Old Town is an enchanting maze of narrow streets, half-timbered houses, and historical buildings that transport visitors back in time. Meander through the cobblestone lanes and marvel at the well-preserved architecture, including the 17th-century Zeughaus (Armoury, pictured below) and the iconic timber-framed Ratsapotheke (Council Pharmacy). The Captivating St. Mary's Church St. Mary's Church (St. Marienkirche) is a striking example of Gothic architecture in Wolfenbüttel. Established in the 12th century, this historic church is home to several artistic masterpieces, such as the baroque altar and the elaborate organ. Visitors can also admire the beautifully restored frescoes that adorn the church's walls. The Annual Wolfenbüttel Cultural Events Wolfenbüttel hosts numerous events throughout the year that showcase its vibrant cultural scene. The Wolfenbüttel Kultursommer (Culture Summer) offers an array of concerts, theatre performances, and exhibitions. Meanwhile, the Weihnachtsmarkt (Christmas Market) is a festive highlight, with its twinkling lights, festive food, and unique crafts. Culinary Delights of Wolfenbüttel We had lunch at the excellent Restaurant “Zum Glück”, Löwenstraße 1, and very good it was too. Indulge in the local gastronomy by sampling traditional Lower Saxon dishes, such as the hearty Grünkohl (kale) with Bregenwurst (sausage). Don't forget to try the famous Jägermeister, a herbal liqueur that originated in Wolfenbüttel and has become a popular drink worldwide. Conclusion With its rich history, stunning architecture, and vibrant cultural scene, Wolfenbüttel is a captivating destination that should be on every traveller's bucket list. Discover the historical and cultural gems of this charming German town and create unforgettable memories. Don't miss out on the opportunity to explore the enchanting world of Wolfenbüttel!

  • Lower Saxony 1 - Celle and its magnificent castle

    Drive the motorways of Northern Europe and you could often be forgiven for thinking it’s a bland sort of place with little to interest the sightseer or indeed anyone who likes to delve into scenery, culture and the past. But take the exit roads and motor for a few miles and you can easily come across hidden gems which will take your breath away.  The region of Lower Saxony in northern Germany is a case in point. Its autobahns are many and they are bland - but take one of those ausfahrt signs and you can soon be wandering through the medieval streets of some of the most outstanding towns in Europe - many of which will have direct connections to kings, queens and others who have change the annals of history  Visiting Celle As I ambled through the narrow cobblestone streets of Celle one Sunday morning recently that certainly rang true. The town seemed to whisper its many secrets in my ear, serenading the soul with tales of days gone by. This picturesque gem, nestled snugly in the heart of Lower Saxony, seemed to have an aura of magic about it - or, to put it another way, it could have been a Grimm’s a fairytale sprung to life.  Celle has amazing ancient timber-framed houses like Manhattan has skyscrapers. They stand tall and proud - their facades adorned with intricate carvings and vibrant flowers. Old beams are painted a veritable tapestry of reds, blues, and yellows, and the overall effect suggests some dreamed up version of an older more pleasant Europe. We began our visit at the magnificent Celle Castle , an architectural marvel of Renaissance and Baroque styles. The place exudes an air of regality and elegance, as if inviting the visitor to a grand ball from centuries past. The castle dates back to the 13th century and was originally built as a fortified structure to protect the city of Celle.  Celle’s Connection with the British Royal Family The castle’s connection to the British royals began in 1676 when Prince George William of Brunswick-Lüneburg, the son of the Duke of Brunswick-Lüneburg, married Princess Anne of Great Britain, the daughter of King James II of England. As part of her dowry, Anne brought with her a significant collection of artwork and furnishings, which were used to decorate the castle. The Hanoverians were descendants of the Stuart dynasty, which ruled England, Scotland, and Ireland from 1603 to 1714. When Queen Anne, the last of the Stuarts, died without an heir, the crown passed to her closest Protestant relative, who was the Elector of Hanover, George Louis. He became King George I of Great Britain and Ireland in 1714 and established the House of Hanover as the ruling dynasty of Britain. Many members of the Hanoverian family were born or raised at Celle Castle, including George II, who was born there in 1683. It was an important residence for the Hanoverian monarchs, and was often used as a hunting lodge and a summer retreat. The castle's stunning architecture and beautifully landscaped gardens provided the perfect setting for the family's leisure activities. Today, Celle Castle is open to the public as a museum and cultural centre where visitors can learn about the history of the Hanoverians and their links to Britain's royal family. The castle's Hall of Ancestors contains a collection of portraits of the Hanoverian monarchs, including George I, George II, and Queen Victoria. Over the centuries, the huge pile has undergone numerous renovations and expansions. One of its most notable features is the impressive Baroque chapel, which was added in the 17th century. The chapel is beautifully decorated with intricate carvings, stucco work, and frescoes. Visitors can admire the exquisite craftsmanship and take in the peaceful ambiance of this sacred space. Another highlight of the castle is the Hall of Ancestors, which contains a collection of portraits of the dukes and their families. The hall provides a glimpse into the lives and legacies of the people who once called Celle Castle home. As you can see in the two photos above - on our British Guild of Travel Writers visit, our colleague Rupert Parker was made king for the day in the castle - King Rupert the Last is what we call him now… Visitors can also explore the castle's expansive gardens, which are beautifully landscaped and offer breathtaking views of the surrounding countryside. The Town of Celle Back in town the Castle Theatre - Europe's oldest Baroque theatre - is still in use, bearing testament to the town's rich cultural history.  The timber-framed town hall, or Altes Rathaus, is another striking example of the town's architectural prowess. Dating back to the early 16th century, it boasts an impressive facade adorned with ornate carvings. Nearby we marvelled at the Ratskeller, where countless travellers sought respite and shared stories over a hearty meal. But what truly captures the visitor is Celle's unassuming charm, to be found right across the town centre in the nooks and crannies of its quaint streets. The alleys are a treasure trove of surprises, from cozy cafes to charming boutiques. It’s easy to understand how Celle has bewitched countless visitors with its allure. This enchanting town, with its rich history, warm people, and architectural beauty, seems to possess a magical quality that leaves a lasting impression. Discover Celle Castle - Lower Saxony's hidden gem. From Baroque chapels to stunning gardens: Uncovering the beauty of Celle Castle. Celle Castle and its link to Britain's royal family: A must-visit attraction in Lower Saxony

  • Secret Places 3 - Valley of Rock and Legend

    Every now and again you get an urge to visit a place that just won’t go away. It doesn’t matter that it’s miles from home, or even that, when you look at a map, there’s no obvious walk which will turn a visit into a real morning or afternoon out. The itch cannot be remedied until you scratch it by turning up and ticking the place off with a bit of an exploration.  Such was the case with me when it came to one of the most geographically iconic places in the whole of the South West. I was aware that the gorge, somewhere on the north Cornish coast, was an enigma - fabulously dramatic and at the same time a bit sepulchral. Indeed, I knew it to be a dramatic ravine of such surprising spectacle, I had always wondered why it wasn’t on the itinerary of every coach tour and completely surrounded by gift shops and tat.  Ten minutes into my visit, I began to understand why the singular place had remained aloof and alone. It is rarely visited, save for the occasional long distance walker who takes a detour from the South West Coast Path to wander up into its mighty maw. Unless you walk miles along the coast path to find the place where the ravine enters the sea, there is only one way in - and that is down a rather steep craggy footpath which, really, should only be tackled by a fairly fit person.  Once you’re down in the gorge, it is indeed dramatic - breathtaking even. It has the wildness of some remote Scottish glen. Its rocky, vertiginous, acres can’t have change much in 10,000 years.  But because of the steepness of the contours, there is no way even the most determined tourism developer could ever have put viewpoints or coach parks in, let alone cafes or gift shops.  That is why the location you will see in today’s photographs remains so special to me and those who know it. It’s not really a secret place - a lot of people know of it - but, as I’ve said, few folk actually visit this place. And, as this is the theme of this occasional series, it’s the reason I will not be giving its exact whereabouts in this article. As is the case with every location in this series, you can easily find the place if you have a mind to. A little bit of homework and it’s yours to explore. And the bonus here is that, unlike some of the other secret spots we are mentioning, this one is comparatively easy to reach. All you need do is travel along a fairly busy coast road heading north out of one of the most visited communities in Cornwall and, where the road dips into a wooded ravine, park the car in what is a sizeable lay-by. Now, cross the road to where you see a footpath sign, and head down the very steep slope that will introduce you to one of the Wonders of the West Country. I did this once on my way home from West Cornwall - and, with an hour or two to spare, I turned my exploration of gorge into a longer walk by strolling along the coast path to the aforementioned tourist town for a spot of lunch. If you haven’t time for that, then I do promise you it is worth just walking down the gorge and back again.  To begin with, the public footpath wends its way ever downwards past well-groomed private gardens, so that you might be tempted to think you are in the wrong place altogether. But soon you begin to enter one of coastal Cornwall’s wildest zones as the track threads its way alongside the tumbling stream - first on its eastern bank, then crossing to the west after passing the ruins of an old mill.  There’s a compulsory stop here so that you can admire the rock carvings and think all manner of Neolithic thoughts. Discovered in 1948, the maze-like designs on the cliff were at first thought to be from the early Bronze Age. However, in more recent times experts have changed their minds, saying that the labyrinth designs were carved with a metal tool, which would probably make them less than a century old.  Pity. They are the right shape and in the right kind of place for the enjoyment of bit of prehistoric atmosphere. I say right shape because one of them has exactly the same layout as the enigmatic maze which you can see on the western shores of distant St Agnes in the Scillies. Anyway, I am a romantic old blighter, so went on my Bronze Age way mulling over the idea that this gorge would have been exactly my kind of place had I been born 4000 years ago and wanted somewhere easily defendable with a good water supply, close to an oceanic-sized food source, in which to live.  After descending down through the most impressive and dramatic part of the gorge, the narrow track eventually reaches the coast path, where I turned left to stride up over the cliffs that line a beautiful cove. After that it rounds the corner of a great headland which shares a name with a neighbouring headland just a few miles up the coast. The path now continues along a cliff which has one of the most well known surnames in Britain - a cliff which looms above a place known as Gug – whatever a gug is.  Only then do we finally see one of the most famous landmarks in all of the UK, perched so dramatically on its great bold bastion of headland. Of all the castles in all the world, it is difficult to imagine one more laden with more myth and fancy than the romantic, sea-borne, fortifications of that particular pile. The legend goes something like this… The mother of an historic king was said to have been the most beautiful woman in Britain – a fact which brought her to the attentions of a particular aggressive and violent warlord. He invaded Cornwall so he could have his wicked way with her, despite the fact that she was married to the bloke who ruled Cornwall.  For protection, she was duly was hidden away somewhere near our secret location, while her husband’s Cornish forces were besieged at a hill-fort near by. However, the violent interloper was so smitten with lust, he couldn’t be bothered to mess about fighting and asked his wizard sidekick if he could come up with a magical shortcut. The necromancer brought him a drug that would change him into a living, breathing, copy of the woman’s husband - and, effectively disguised, the wicked one managed to gain entry to the queen’s bed, where he “satisfied his desire”.  And through those dubious means, one of Britain’s best loved heroes was conceived. But you only have to think about this story for a minute today to realise it’s all so wrong on so many levels. That’s when you realise one of our most famous and celebrated legends is actually based on a kind of date-rape drug incident. English Heritage rules the particular roost nowadays and you must pay an entry fee if you want to explore the very place where the historic figure is said to have begun his life.  Our secret place, on the other hand, is absolutely free to enter and enjoy. And in some ways, I’d say it’s more dramatic and certainly more sepulchral in a wonderful silent kid of way and filled with hidden meaning. One of the Wonders of the West Country, indeed.

  • Rum School

    “Yo-ho-ho and a bottle of rum…” They’re not the words most of us sing to ourselves as we make our way, stone-cold-sober, to a car-park - even if that car-park is located by the waterside in a seaside town - but it was the little ditty I hummed to myself the other day as I strolled through Salcombe. Why? Because under my arm I had a bottle of Hesperus - a fine and delicious rum made by… Well, made by me! And a very proud and delighted amateur rum-maker I was too. It’s not everyday a chap has the chance to make something so special and to have the honour of naming it with any moniker they please. I was going to call my rum Wreck of the Hesperus after Henry Wadsworth’s famous poem, but then I remembered that a couple of years ago I’d walked to that very same car-park with another bottle under my arm. On that occasion it was filled with an excellent gin which I’d spent the day making, and I’d given it the full Wreck appellation because the title of Wadsworth’s poem is the only thing in literature that gets close to my name.  Not that the naming thing matters in the slightest, because the only people who’ll ever get to see and taste these wondrous tipples are a few of my pals back at home. No, the whole point of my two little forays into the world of distilling is that on both occasions I’d enjoyed a truly wonderful day out. One or two readers may recall how we carried a report about Salcombe Distilling Co.’s excellent Gin School in these pages - now the ever innovative team has launched a new Salcombe Rum School experience.   Like Salcombe Gin School, it is located at their stunning waterside distillery on Island Street in Salcombe - said to be one of the world’s only distilleries directly accessible by boat. Salcombe Rum School allows enthusiasts to learn about the art of rum distillation and cask ageing, distil their own 70cl bottle of rum and create a bespoke rum cocktail.  Salcombe Rum School runs every Thursday afternoon (2pm - 5pm), and costs £110 for one person or £160 for a shared experience for two, and can be booked at salcombedistilling.com . At this point a churlish or mean person might question the cost - a notion which I’d knock into touch straight away, because both the gin and the rum schools offer an experience which I’d say represents a truly great afternoon out. The classes provide a truly immersive experience which is filled with so much that is interesting, you go home with something far more fascinating and extensive than just a bottle tucked under your arm.  Salcombe Rum School gives the enthusiastic student something they can cherish for years and years to come. Certainly, looking back to my afternoon with the same team at their Gin School, I can say the experience led to me to think about gin in a new and altogether more learned way. There is a genuine reason why it has won ‘Best Small Visitor Attraction’ at the South West England Tourism Excellence Awards. When I taste a gin and tonic nowadays, I am so much more aware of the flavours of botanicals and aromatics than I was previous to my day in school. I now know what I like and what to look out for.  I am sure this same knowledge, borne from the experience of actually making the stuff, will apply with rum.  Commenting on the recent launch of Salcombe Rum School, co-founder of Salcombe Distilling Co., Howard Davies, told me: “Since its launch in 2017, our award-winning Gin School has welcomed over 10,000 visitors - which of course has been wonderful for the team here and for the town.   “So we began to think about launching a Rum School last autumn after we introduced Salcombe Rum ‘Island Street’, an outstanding transatlantic spiced gold rum which is a blend of single estate gold rum, produced here at the distillery, with the finest exotic rums and spices from the Caribbean.  It has proved extremely sought-after and this, combined with the huge popularity of Salcombe Gin School, led my fellow co-founder Angus and I to launch Salcombe Rum School, allowing others the opportunity to learn how to create their own rum in a fun and relaxed way.” And the team does take a very pleasant and relaxed approach - although that doesn’t mean you don’t learn an awful lot along the way. That is partly because head distiller, Jason Nickels, who heads-up both schools, is such a good communicator.  During the session we were offered a complimentary Salcombe Rum cocktail on arrival - although, sadly, I had to demure because of having to drive later in the day.  Next, we were ushered through to Salcombe Distilling Co.’s ‘still room’ where Jason told us all about rum production. He also explained how the distillation process works on the larger traditional copper-pot rum stills - mini versions of which we’d be using in the company’s research and development laboratory which houses a specially designed classroom.    There was plenty to learn - many of us wanted to know more about the origins of the famous Caribbean spirit which, centuries ago, was the fruit of so much dubious forced labour in the island sugar plantations (see panel). Basically rum is like any other spirit - it is created by heating a sweet liquid (made from sugar cane in rum’s case) that has been semi-fermented. The steam rising from this beer-like liquor in the large boiling container known as the ‘still’ travels through copper pipes where it is rapidly cooled, resulting in a condensation which is the extremely strong high grade alcohol that is the basis for the final product.  It was a process we were to see for ourselves in Salcombe Distilling Co.’s laboratory. Guided by Jason and his assistant Harry, we students were given a small still each (or one between two - a lot of couples attend both the rum and gin schools) in which a very basic rum spirit had already been placed. Around us on each side of the lab were large shelves and tables containing all manner of spices and botanicals - our job was to read the guidance on all these flavourings then begin to compile our own recipe.  Did we want a sweeter rum, or something spicier and more fruity? By being creative and picking from the range of botanicals supplied, we were able to collect a pile of carefully weighed flavourings in a dish, which we eventually added to our still. Once this was done, the heat was turned on and we waited for that magical trickle of pure white spirit to start flowing slowly into our collection jars. This wait gave us the chance to name and create a personalised label for our finished rum - which in turn was eventually decanted into a 70cl bottle, then placed in a white wooden presentation box.   Because the stills produced slightly more than 70cl my fellow students were able to take small glass jars of their rum back to the cocktail bar where the highly experienced mixologists produced special individual rum cocktails, having studied which botanicals and flavourings had gone into each distillation. As I was driving, I was eventually able to enjoy my recommended cocktail at home - and very good it was too. I was a little sad, though, to have missed the opportunity of sampling some of the company’s exclusive cask aged Salcombe Rum ‘Island Street’ which, Howard told me, was created in honour of the transatlantic trading history of the Salcombe Fruiters.  He explained that, first a gold rum is produced by fermenting molasses, a process which is then followed by further distilling and ageing in the company’s Island Street HQ.  Hand-sourced three year old pot-still gold rum from Jamaica and three year old column still rum from the Dominican Republic are then blended with the Salcombe gold rum, along with a unique spiced pineapple distillate, to produce Salcombe Rum ‘Island Street’. If I had described my day as a ‘rum old do’ at the beginning of this article you might have been given the wrong idea - as it is, you’ll understand exactly what I mean, and why I enjoyed the experience so much. To book a place at Salcombe Distilling Co.’s Rum School or for more information, visit www.salcombedistilling.com .  RUM - A Brief History The earliest evidence of rum production dates back to the Caribbean in the early 1500s. It goes without saying that the West Country always had quite a close relationship with the drink, given that our sailor-folk had more than a hand in the shameful slave trade which gave rise to the sugar plantations which were developed with the help of forced African labour on the other side of the Atlantic. Indeed, I have been to some of the rural plantation parishes of northern Barbados and heard local people speaking with a dialect that could be traced directly to the South West of England. However, historians believe that the Spanish and Portuguese sailors were the first to ferment and distil sugarcane byproducts, creating what we now know as rum. During the 16th century, the drink was widely used as a trading currency in the Caribbean region, particularly in the British and Dutch colonies.  The production of rum spread throughout the Caribbean, with the British and French settlers setting up distilleries to produce the spirit for their own consumption. By the late 17th century, rum had become one of the most popular spirits in Europe and the Americas.  In the 18th century, rum production began to spread to other areas of the world, such as India, South America and the United States. By the 19th century, it had become the most popular spirit in the USA and remained so until the early 20th century.

  • Secret Places 2 - Somewhere on the Wreckers' Coast

    A secret canyon here in the West Country - a dramatic mini-gorge which is one of the least visited places anywhere south of Birmingham? How could anyone possibly resist an invitation to explore such a place?  That’s what I said to myself a few years ago when I put the phone down after talking to the late David ‘Kester’ Webb.  There were two things on my mind.  The first was a hit of genuine excitement. The idea that such a place should exist here in such a well-populated region seemed too wonderful to be true - but I knew my old friend Kester was the one person in the country who was well qualified to make such a claim.  The other was a feeling of slight trepidation… Because, when Kester Webb used to go out for a day at the seaside, he always did so more adventurously than most. With his wife Liz, he’d walked, climbed and clambered to some of the most inaccessible parts of this peninsula’s coasts over the past half-century, both for the sheer thrill of adventure, and to make drawings and paintings of the region’s most secret places. Of course, when he phoned with an offer to take me to a place which he claimed to be one of the least visited places in all of southern England, I instantly agreed to go without asking how dangerous it would be. The previous time I’d joined Kester and his athletic wife Elizabeth on a vertiginous sojourn, I ended up staring into a rabbit hole tunnelled into vertical turf 200 feet above crashing waves. For some reason the combination of that cosy little burrow and my own perilous situation caused me to have a massive panic attack and I froze - if shaking like a jelly can be described as freezing. I needn’t have worried on this occasion. During the conversation Kester - then aged 75 - assured me he’d reached the age when he was giving up on his more vertigo-inducing adventures by the seaside.  What he wouldn’t tell me on the telephone, though, was the exact location of the place which he called The Secret Canyon… And so it was that I found myself walking somewhere along the “Wreckers’ Coast” between Bideford and Bude. Kester was intending to draw the Secret Canyon and - believe it or not - to measure its vital statistics.  And he was getting into his geological stride as we marched along the South West Coast Path, explaining how the particular geography of the area had occurred thanks to a long-lost river that tipped into the ocean many eons ago. All this was evident as we walked: there’s a valley which sweeps around the inland half of a steep knoll - a kind of natural pyramid - only to disappear over the sea-cliffs on either side.  Kester explained that the long-lost river ran parallel with the coast north to south - so when the sea eroded its way inland to reach just a corner of it, the river instantly took the new, more direct route, to the sea (a similar thing happened at Lynton’s more famous Valley of Rocks).   Could this ancient point of escape be the site of our secret canyon? I didn’t know as we first strolled down to the place. But I could see that a small stream running down the steep valley entered what remained of a much large ancient river system, crossing it to make a final leap for freedom and the sea in a death-defying waterfall. It was only when we walked to the very edge of the cataract that I could see that the great force of the cascading water had, over many centuries, managed to create what really was a rocky canyon… Don’t get too excited. It is not a Grand Canyon. There are places where you couldn’t swing a cat in it, let alone go bungee-jumping, fly a helicopter, or whatever else it is they do in vast gorges elsewhere in the world...  It is a remarkable place nevertheless - a truly wild, almost inaccessible, rock-and-river zone that cannot be fully appreciated until you are right down there in the middle of it.  That, as I was to find out, required the use of ropes. Or, at least, it does if you are being the slightest bit sensible. Which, I am glad to say, Kester and Liz always were when I joined them on seaborne adventures.  Many years earlier the couple had succeeded in helping to formulate the incredibly perilous - but now much-celebrated - Exmoor Traverse, which only a handful of people have ever managed to complete. It is the long, long climb which traverses right along England’s most vertical littoral from Porlock Weir in the east to Combe Martin in the west. A climb which is fully described in their excellent book called The Hidden Edge of Exmoor. So it was with some confidence I stood down there on a wild beach having a climbing harness fitted - confident in the belief that if you can do the Exmoor Traverse unscathed, you can do anything, including the much easier task of entering the Secret Canyon from the shoreline beneath.  “On a dry day it’s quite possible for agile people, perhaps with a bit of climbing experience, to walk up through the canyon from the beach,” said Kester, looking up at the lower waterfall around which we were about to clamber. “That’s the safest way to tackle it. There are a couple of awkward bits where we’ll use a rope today, but an experienced climber wouldn’t bother with that. As long as you’ve got good footwear and you keep your wits about you, you can work your way up through the canyon and come out at the path at the top.” Please don’t try it unless you are an experience climber. Entering the Secret Canyon, having a look around, and then exiting the way you came is perilous enough for most people. Only a person with a lot of rock climbing experience should contemplate going right up through to the top.  As we set about our clamber, Kester explained: “In 1908 the original geological explorer of North Devon - a chap called Neil Arber - came here and surveyed this place and made notes and tried to make a summary of this canyon.  “He said it was very complicated - and he tried to do diagrams to show how the rocks folded in different directions and show all the detail he could get. Of course, he couldn’t get the good camera shots we can today with all the wide-angle lenses and so on. But he did write that this canyon was so remarkable it was one of the treasures of England - and it should have special status in the future to protect it.” By now we were past the first of a series of waterfalls. “I don’t know what could be done to protect it down here,” said Kester. “But the sentiment was that it was a very unusual and remarkable canyon - and therefore very interesting.  “These great slabs were laid down horizontally in the bottom of a shallow sea, or even a big lake,” he went on, explaining how the amazing geological formations that were now surrounding us on every side were formed. “The sediment settled, and then more sediment settled on top of that and compressed the mud and sand into solid rock. Then, when we bumped into Africa, the whole lot got crumpled up. You can see it along this entire coast everywhere you go - if you look back at the cliffs you can see how the rock is all folded like so much cardboard.” This is what makes the canyon so spectacular - it was a kind of Piccadilly Circus of ancient seabeds which collided in the one place to be twisted and shaped into the most contorted of cliff-scapes.  “There is a meeting here where the anticlines and synclines collide,” said Kester, pointing up at the 100-foot canyon walls. “And the effect is that these near vertical slabs slope in different directions - from the inside here in the canyon you can see them going in five or six different ways - which is why I’m doing semi-diagrammatic drawings to decipher what was actually happening originally. “This work has been commissioned by Peter Keane who is publishing a book about this part of the coast. He’s a geologist and, although he’s got lots of lovely photographs, the drawings are needed to help understand what’s going on in this geological structure.  “I’ve done the same on the Exmoor coast for when we published our book The Hidden Edge - this coast is going to be one of my next projects,” explained Kester who sadly passed away a few years ago, leaving his widow Liz who still lives in North Devon. “It’s a very interesting and inspiring complex landscape - which will probably inspire me to do my next collection of drawings.” Later, back at their home near Barnstaple, I was to see some of the exquisite cliff-paintings which illustrated the Exmoor book - but back in the canyon we settled down to have a picnic lunch above one of its three cauldron-like pools. When I say “we”, I mean Liz and I sat there dining al-fresco and admiring the savage scenery while Kester clambered this way and that taking measurements and drawing sketches.  Eventually, as we began to climb to the tiny footpath opposite the main 60-foot waterfall which tumbles into the top of the canyon, Kester stopped for a second to catch his breath and he mused: “I started climbing the Exmoor coast 50 years ago, but now I’m past 75 it’s time to retire gracefully and hang up my climbing gear.” He added: “From now on I’ll just do what you might call adventure walks - like this one to the Secret Canyon - which don’t put too much strain on my old knees.” The handful of connoisseurs who’ve spent their lives exploring the West Country’s wild and perilous north coast still remember the late Kester Webb with a combination of admiration and awe. During his lifetime, he and Liz explored, mapped, painted and wrote about some of the least-known but perilous corners of our well-populated and much-visited region.  If any reader ever does find themselves clambering up the Secret Canyon having discovered it somewhere tucked away in a quiet corner of the Devon-Cornwall coast, why not a spend a second or two remembering the man who mapped and painted the most obscure parts of the Southern English littoral.

  • January's Great Time For Fresh Fish

    We’ve experienced some wild weather recently, which may sound like an odd way of starting an article about food - until you remember that most of the stuff we put on our plates probably came from the great outdoors.  As storm after storm has hit this week, some of us in our cosy kitchens may have been sparing a thought for people like the farmers who must tend livestock in such conditions or who’ll be worrying about over-wintering crops and early planting regimes. But the folk I really think about as the wind rages and the Atlantic tries its best to invade the land are the people who go out into that ocean in their bid to catch an array of this region’s finest foodie treasures… By which I mean, the amazing seafood for which the West Country has such an exceptional name.  As I steam a fillet of John Dory over a pan of gently bubbling water, my imagination flies west to some raging maelstrom in which a Cornish fisherman has somehow managed to catch the sweet and delicate morsel which is about to become my supper. As a person who suffers from seasickness, it never ceases to amaze me that there are people who make a living from returning again and again to the wild seas.  But another thing which has never ceased to amaze me is how we Brits have been so reluctant to embrace the treasure trove that’s landed upon our own shores. I realise things have changed a lot since I began writing about the West Country food scene a quarter of a century ago, but we still have a long way to go before we catch up with the love our neighbours have for fresh fish. Many times have I been in European towns and cities located hundreds of miles from the sea where I’ve seen fish-markets selling the likes of sparkling fresh Cornish hake or Devon brown crab in such great quantities it’s as if the stuff had been landed just down the road.   I always feel somewhat deflated, comparing it with the situation in Somerset where I’d have to travel a 60-mile round trip to the nearest fresh fish shop to have any hope of seeing such produce. Of course, some areas in the region are better supplied than others - in North Devon there’s our old friend, the inimitable Dan the Fishman, who sells fresh seafood around markets in the region such as Tavistock and South Molton (find out more at https://clovellyfish.com/ ). There’s also the much acclaimed Fish Deli, Ashburton, which is an exemplar of its kind.   There is a fish-stall in a large supermarket a little closer to my home, but every time I’ve attempted to support it with custom I’ve been left disappointed with the staleness of seafood on offer. I don’t know if that’s the supermarket’s fault or the fact that we Brits seem so reluctant to buy seafood that doesn’t come out of a packet. What I do know is that the situation has changed and that now, in what could be termed the Age of the 24-Hour-Delivery, we can get hold of very fresh fish direct from the people who catch it.  A growing number of firms run fish-by-post operations in the region and it is now possible to purchase the very freshest seafood and have it delivered to your door within 24 hours of it being landed.  That’s because many vessels fishing out of Devon and Cornwall are day-boats, which means their catches can be processed, vac-packed and despatched to your door with an overnight courier just hours after the fish has been caught. Prices vary according to season and the catches involved, but visit the numerous websites and you can purchase the kind of seafood you like either by selecting specific fish or species - or by relying on a company like Newlyn-based Fresh Cornish Fish (https://www.fresh-cornish-fish.co.uk/) which puts together boxes of whatever’s been best on the market that day. They run the Fish Box Club - there’s no signing up or necessity to become a member - and this month the best value box deliverable nationwide (which typically contains around 4 kgs of fresh fish from Newlyn market) costs £44.99.   Another such operation is run by Trelawney Fish, also based on the harbour-side at Newlyn (http://www.trelawneyfish.co.uk).  For many years now I have been a regular customer of the excellent Brixham seafood merchant David Walker and Son (davidwalkerandson.com/). My old friend David, who was one of the most experienced and knowledgeable fish merchants in the country, sadly passed away a year ago - but for a long time now the business has been in the very capable hands of his son Neil, who operates an overnight delivery service to both home and commercial customers, as well as running a shop from the quay alongside a seasonal shellfish take-away on the harbour-side.  This week Neil told me: “January is a great month for fish in the region. Pretty much everything is good at this time of year - we normally have the full spread - but of course we’ve been hit badly by storms in the past few days. However, locally caught lemon sole, hake, sea-bass, haddock… It’s all good.  “Our stock is dependant upon which species the local fishing boats land on any particular morning, therefore guaranteeing the ultimate in freshness. So just give us a call and we will be able to tell you what offers are available and you can instruct us how you would like it processed, packed and sealed,” said Neil. I’ve turned to another old friend, Robin Turner for this week’s recipe. Robin has had a long and interesting career as a fish merchant working out of the port of Newlyn for over 40 years and still works closely with local fisherman and shellfish businesses. Nowadays he also works with his wife, Rebecca, running one of Cornwall’s most prestigious specialist catering outfits. Their business, Indulgence Catering, uses the finest of local ingredients to tailor-make bespoke menus and I, for one, can vouch for the quality of their food. This week’s recipe focusses on turbot and lobster, but before he gave me details of Rebecca’s excellent recipe, Robin and I spoke about the locally caught haddock, a species which was doing well before the storms hit…  “Personally, I like my haddock smoked with poached with an egg for Sunday breakfast,” said Robin. “Or, if you really want to try something special, try thinly sliced smoked with sour cream instead of using the traditional smoked salmon.  “Unsmoked and fresh, the simplest way is best,” he went on. “The best fish and chips uses battered haddock. It is absolutely fantastic – as is haddock in fish pies. Or you can cook one on the bone in the oven, wrapped in tin foil, with wine – throw in whole cloves of garlic and sieve the sauce afterwards before squeezing a fresh orange into it and tipping it over the fish, making sure you’ve squeezed in the garlic flesh.”  I don’t know about you, but at this time of year I can find myself becoming a little weary of the big heavy meals which winter tends to inspire. This week I tried Robin’s whole-haddock suggestion and (although I am not adhering to it myself) gave a nod to Dry January by serving it with a glass of Luscombe’s amazing Sicilian Lemonade (luscombe.co.uk). It was a sensational combo! As well as being utterly delicious, it felt wonderfully light, refreshing and healthy - and I felt good knowing I was both helping a great local company like Luscombe and a regional fishing industry which has been knocked back by recent storms, not to mention, Brexit, fuel prices and just about everything else. Bring on the fish, I say! Especially if I can get fish which is the envy of Europe delivered straight to my door.     RECIPE Cornish turbot with lobster sauce and tender stem broccoli - as made by Newlyn-based Indulgence Catering (https://www.indulgence-catering.co.uk) For two people - If no turbot available, use brill or large lemon sole - and instead of lobster you can use prawn shells or crawfish shells to flavour the sauce. Ingredients:- 2 x 180 gram skinless turbot fillets 1 x 500 gram lobster 150ml white wine 150 ml cognac Tomato passata 200ml Olive oil 2 x table spoons Trewithen Cornish butter 2 x 150gram 1 x large shallot 2 x cloves garlic  200ml fish stock 150ml Trewithen double cream Salt & black pepper Veg 180 gram tender stem broccoli  Method  Render lobster to a state of sleep (insentient) by putting in deep freezer for an hour. Cook in boiling salted (4%) water for 8 minutes - after cooking and cooling cut lobster lengthwise and remove stomach and intestine. Then remove meat (both white and brown meat) and put aside in fridge. Put empty lobster shells (or prawn or crawfish shells) in a pan chopped and crushed so that all flavours will go into the sauce, add just enough water to cover shells and bring to boil, then simmer for 30 mins. The shells should have given up lots of flavour into the simmering water. Keep for adding to sauce mix. Chop finely shallot and garlic cloves. In a separate pan soften shallot in olive oil. When softened continuously stir, add garlic on gentle heat do not burn garlic or shallot. Add cognac and flame to burn off alcohol. Add wine, tomato passata and fish stock. Now add the lobster shell liquor through a chinoise. Add butter, bring to boil and then simmer until liquid is reduced by 60%. Season to taste. Pass all through chinoise into a new pan, then add double cream stir and taste. There should be a rich lobster sauce fit for a king. Can be frozen or chilled to use next day. Cut lobster white meat into 8 x small 20p sized discs to add and serve with sauce warmed and turbot. If you are within 10 minutes of serving warm sauce over gentle heat and add lobster meat discs. Freeze the balance of the lobster meat (white and brown) for future use. Steam tender stem broccoli for 5 minutes. In a shallow pan add the second tablespoon of olive oil and heat to medium heat on hob. Put turbot fillets into pan, presentation side down and season. Turn after 2 minutes and season presentation side cook for a further 2 minutes, remove turbot from pan and serve on top of tender stem broccoli pouring lobster sauce over the turbot sharing the lobster discs evenly between the two plates.

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