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- Two Old Chaps Write About a Gate and a Lifelong Friendship
Back in 1976, when gender wasn’t fluid and correctness wasn’t political, men were men and women were girls – or that’s was the way it was for most. But some of us were ahead of the curve, with our long hair, androgynous clothing and freedom from the kind of hierarchies and formalities to be found in most work-places and institutions of the realm 50 years ago. So when I stumbled on Nettlecombe, tucked away in the lower edges of the Brendon Hills, it seemed like a paradise of free souls in a paradisal garden all of its own. And when I was invited to live there, after a few months of working as a reporter on the very local paper, I leapt at it. Not only did I feel at home, an added benefit was escape from endless weeks of Prid’s everlasting stew. Randolph Priddy (see LD 4) was the photographer of choice for weddings, funerals, bar mitzvahs and the Free Press and lived with his large, protective Alsatian, Anushka, in a little cottage tucked away in Roadwater. There he played classical music at full volume on his record player and lived off a constantly topped up stew, seemingly all winter long. Nevertheless, I survived several months living with this wonderful round gooseberry of a man and his other lodger, a young woman. The phrase ‘ahead of the curve’ most certainly didn’t apply to the West Somerset Free Press, one of the last of the Methodist tradition of independent, family-run, hand-built local papers, most of which have long gone now. Top management resided on the ground floor of the Williton office, including the gentle and self-effacing editor, Jack Hurley, and rather more bullish elements elsewhere. The three reporters, one junior (me), one senior and the Chief Reporter shared one room upstairs in the Williton office. And of course there was the almost mediaeval print shop across the walkway from the office. Here another world of hot metal, blocks, ink, and vast rolls of paper was squeezed, along with the sub-editor and a small army of print workers, many from generations of the same families, who kept it all, literally, rolling, as they had, on a weekly basis, for a hundred years or more. Nor does ‘ahead of the curve’ apply to one of my principal peccadillos, then and now, I’m ashamed to say. This is a strange inability to resist cars of a certain character, nearly all old, cheap and not usually good at being ‘ahead of the curve’ in any sense – if they could get round the curve at all. I’m very glad that my dearest friend of the last 44 years is still around to invite me to contribute to his august Lockdown Diary. The fact is, he might well not have been if the gate-post, and the gate – but I’m getting ahead of the curve myself here. This is the story of how Martin and I met. I was the new boy on the block at the Free Press, in the very seat Martin had sat in himself not many months before, if from a more tender age than me. This was where my strange experience with the ghostly ring and the Poltimore Arms (see LD 66) had led me to, thanks to a lift from the then Chief Reporter who took pity on this young man down on his luck. Well, by the end of our conversation in his car, he had virtually offered me the job. A rash, impulsive, kindly move which might not happen in these more exacting times. Fortunately, Jack Hurley, bless him, took pity on this wandering soul at my interview and I was formally given the job of junior reporter a few days later. Pubs, I should add, come a close second in the peccadillo stakes, so it didn’t take long for me to sniff out the best watering holes. The White Horse near Roadwater was one of many, with the initial attraction of a grumpy landlord, which always adds character, I find. Much more attractive was the array of folk, from traditional farming and artisanal trades, to loose-limbed youths of both sexes, some distinctly more exotic than others. And the cider was okay too. One of these characters of the loose-limbed variety, was a handsome, somewhat louche young man who turned out be my predecessor at the paper. His name was Martin, Martin Hesp, usually to be found with a bevy of sparkling-eyed women surrounding him, hanging on his every word. We got on immediately and a pint or two was sunk before the subject of vehicles arose. It so happened that my car outside was low and yellow, had no doors or roof (it had blown off somewhere) and not much bodywork altogether. Oh, and a very loud exhaust. I know. And am, fairly deeply, ashamed. But Martin loved it. So, predictably, a ride was suggested and off we roared. No more than half a mile up the road on this lovely Spring evening, just at twilight, when light and shade merge in an opaque, hazy sense of well-being, there was a gateway. And in the gateway was a gate. Closed. Attached to a sturdy, oak post. In the dim light, which headlamps just made dimmer, I mistook the gateway for a bend in the road and made a very bad choice. I was, indeed, ahead of the curve. We went under the top bar of the gate, splintering the rest of it and tore out the gatepost with my right wheel. Coming quietly to rest in the field, miraculously untouched, I turned to Martin to see blood streaming down from a cut in his forehead. Much more concerned about him than the car, I’m glad to say, we abandoned ship and somehow made our way to A&E, or its equivalent, in the hospital in Minehead. There I handed him to a nurse and, promising to return, I quickly made for the nearest pub to settle my shaken nerves. Feeling guilty, after a soothing pint, I ordered another and carried it carefully back to the hospital where I found a sewn up and bandaged Martin to whom I held out my peace-offering. What the nurse made of it all, I can’t remember but at least it made Martin laugh and still does, I believe. Well, he hasn’t sued me yet so it must have worked – so far – despite the scar. The farmer whose gate I’d demolished wasn’t very pleased. In fact he wished I’d well and truly crossed the bar, so to speak. But Martin – as I said, we laugh about it now but if the gate had been solid steel, and the gate-post ditto, as, of course, it is now, at a rightly hefty cost to the low-waged perpetrator, well… Did I learn my lesson regarding my ‘principal peccadillo’, or the second, for that matter? That’s a story for another day, I’m afraid. And My Own Memories of That Day What memories from my dear pal Tim… He writes so well - far better than my old newspaper style hackery - which is apparent because it’s here for all to see. I took a huge liking to Tim Bannerman the very instant I saw him in the White Horse that night more than 40 years ago, and I am pleased to say we have remained very good friends ever since. And that’s despite the run-in with the gate just 30 minutes after our first ever meeting… Or maybe because of it, because the incident brought us much closer together than a couple of quick pints in a pub normally would. I’d left the Free Press in just a little bit of high-dudgeon, as they used to say, having been told that - after 18-months of writing the front page and half the paper most weeks - I was being sent to journalism college to be trained. Apparently I needed to learn shorthand and journalistic law - but as I already had rapid Pitman classic note-taking capabilities and an A-Level in law, I didn’t see the point in going to some awful college in Cardiff when I was having such a wonderful time in my native West Somerset. Spending time at dreamy and beautiful Nettlecombe “surrounded by a bevy of sparkling-eyed women”, as Tim puts it, suited me far better than the lure of stale classrooms, boring lectures and dodgy digs. So I told the extremely unpleasant managing director at the paper (a smiling bully of a man who was loathed far and wide) to shove his training up his arse… And I walked out one sunny morning to a future promising nothing but, perhaps, for bevvies of sparkling-eyed women. (Whatever happened to such dreams….) A walk-out which upset my dear old dad for quite some time, but later he envied me the freedom I’d managed to gain through not adhering to the inside of a newsroom. Although, he probably envied the poverty less. God knows what kind of journalistic career I’d have endured had I stayed on. I’d probably be dead by now. Had I gone off to work in newsrooms and climbed the slippery pole of newsprint and editorship, I’d have hated it - and the boredom that is news-news-news would have killed me. And I’d never have met my dear friend Tim Bannerman. I remember being told that the guy who’d been given my job at the paper owned a rather special yellow sports-car - so, driving past the White Horse early one evening and seeing the beast parked by the river I immediately requested my companion, a diminutive moustachioed man called American Bob, to pull over. It took Mr Bannerman and I all of 30 seconds to become pals. After a while the car was mentioned and this friendly new mate said to me: “Why don’t you take her for a spin…” I’ve always been a little notorious for my overly fast driving style, but this habit was honed on a series of Morris 1000s and A35s which had difficulty in accelerating from 0-to-60 in two minutes. You can imagine the thrill I felt when I found myself grasping a steering wheel the size of a digestive biscuit, sitting as high as a viper’s arse-hole, blasting up the road from the White Horse to Fair’s Cross. I’d never experienced speed, handling or acceleration like it. But I was being careful - after all, I’d only just met the really nice chap sitting next to me, so the last thing I wanted to do was prang his beloved car. After ten minutes we returned safe and sound to the White Horse - and I shall never forget the words which came out of Tim’s mouth as we clambered out from its doorless fuselage… “Let me show you what she can really do.” When you are young, you are so stupid. I’ve been stupid for a great deal of my life, but not even I would climb into a vehicle after such an invitation in normal times. But these were not normal times - I was held entranced by the lure of my new pal. It took far less than a minute for the enchantment to fall away. I can still vividly remember hurting south up the Roadwater road at a speed which I’d never before have believed possible. The world had turned into a blur, and it wasn’t so much a case of IF we were doing to die, but WHEN. And I didn’t have to wait long for the answer . There is a point in the road where it leaves the Washford Stream - if you can imagine a Y shape, the road curves gently to the right and the river swings to the left. In the middle of the Y there is a field - and at the apex of this field, there stands a gate. Today is it is a big sturdy steel gate. Had it been there back then, neither Tim nor I would be writing on this website. We were lucky. It was a fairly rotten old gate back in those days. And suddenly it had a sort of cut-out shape in it - the shape of a very low sports-car with just one higher bit, which happened to be left by the rapid passing of my forehead. We went right through that closed gate, leaving the top bar of it intact. It was almost cartoon-like. I can see how, in the gloaming, Tim thought perhaps that a wide and wonderful road continued south. Why would you turn up the little lane to the right if you could carry on blasting up that nice big wide highway? I, on the other hand, knew the road well - and remember thinking that perhaps he was going to demonstrate the amazing braking power of the car. Why else would he be heading straight for a five-bar gate? Bang! Through we went —- and the next thing I knew were were spinning and spinning in the field, and I was clutching for dear life watching as four wheels went bobbing off in all directions. Then my world went red, because the cut above one of my eyes started to pour blood in a mini-tidal wave. I remember walking a little shakily back to the pub where the charming landlord - one Bill Mills - roared at me to get out as I was dripping blood on his very dirty old slate floor. Then American Bob conveyed us in his Morris 1000 van to Minehead Hospital, where a nurse ushered me into some place where a middle aged doctor with an Indian sounding name told me to lie down on an operating slab. What bothered me at that moment was that the nurse - a girl I knew - fainted. Crash! Down she went pole-axed. I thought: “What has she seen that is so horrible it has caused her to pass out? Whatever has happened to me, it must be very bad indeed.” She later told me she had never fainted at work before, despite seeing many terrible tings in hospitals - but it was because she knew me and there was so much blood. So the poor old Doc had his work cut out looking after her - then he turned to me and began the painful process of stitching. At which moment the double swing doors crashed open and there stood my new sports-car owning pal with a frothing pint of ale in his hand, purchased from the Carlton Plume of Feathers (now long gone) across the street. The doctor protested, but I croaked that I could really do with a drink - and at that moment the nurse moaned from her bed next door - so he shrugged and saw to her needs while Tim duly delivered the pint. Eventually, after a great deal more painful stitching, American Bob took us home to Nettlecombe where Tim Bannerman’s life was about to change forever - and where I sought solace among the aforementioned bevy of sparkling-eyed sirens. So a lifelong friendship had begun - and it’s not over yet. Tim and I have many, many, adventures yet to come when this lockdown is over - but hopefully none quite so painful. Here are a couple more photos I’ve found from the time - the first of the beautiful Nettlecombe girl Tim would later marry - then there’s John Wolseley who owned the place and still does with his sons - and also dear old Alex Hollweg who passed away recently…
- Town Tree Farm, Somerset
The robots at Facebook tell me that it is exactly a year since I went to interview a wonderful elderly chap on the edge of the Somerset Levels. Chris Burnett’s private nature reserve is one of the most special places in the county of Somerset - I really mean that - and look forward to visiting again. Here’s the article I penned 365 days ago… There are too many people creating hell and havoc in this world and all too few making paradise. That is what I thought as I strolled one sunlit day recently behind a 79-year-old Somerset farmer who was riding slowly along on a quad bike. Our meandering journey was taking us through the 22-acres of earthly paradise which Chris Burnett has spent the best part of half a century creating in a southerly corner of the Somerset Levels. As the farmer’s passion gradually took a hold over the years, so he would nibble away at his pasture lands - armed sometimes with naught but a trowel, but more often with an old JCB digger - transforming blank grass fields into a kind of Garden of Eden all of his own design and making. And so a lake would appear here, and a woodland there. Bridges, towers, waterfalls, meandering paths, grottos, homemade sculptures, islands, viewpoints all were built and made to work in this unique Arcadian vision over the decades… All these features and a great many more besides came from the mind of the creative and altogether individualistic farmer who now opens his Town Tree Farm Nature Garden to the public everyday. Not that a great many folk turn up, because the oddly named farm is in a very obscure corner of the Levels, down a cul-de-sac lane somewhere near the River Parrett near the town of Martock, not too far off the main A30 West Country-to-London road. But don’t think you could begin to imagine the Burnett-style of Eden from this bare geographical description. What you see in the nature garden is nothing like anything else you’ll find in the South West region. On the hot day we visited, for example, I was fully expecting crocodiles to glide smoothly out of the overgrown lakes amid the jungles that are the wild and luxuriant results of Chris’s creation. However, before I wax too lyrically, there is trouble in paradise… At 79 Chris is not the indomitable man-of-action he used to be, mainly because he is suffering a few health problems which he shrugs off as “the wobbles”. So what he and his wife Margaret are looking for - and the reason why I’m writing this article - are volunteers to help with the nature garden. “Without some help, the bullrushes are going to take over in the lakes and the whole lot will be finished,” sighs Chris, as we take tea in the lovely garden in front of the slightly tumbledown 17-century house that is Town Tree Farm. I cannot think of a more pleasant volunteering opportunity for any person who may want to find some deep sense of peace and restfulness in their lives. The nature garden is beautiful and wild and unexpected. I was going to say unworldly, but it’s very much part of a the natural world. Better, perhaps, to describe it as being a kind of oasis far from the modern world. Added to that, Chris is a gentle spoken natural philosopher and Margaret is one of those kindly cheerful country women. When I visited the couple and explored the garden with photographer Richard Austin, we had difficulty in tearing ourselves away. There is something magnetic about Town Tree Farm that draws the human soul. The effect is like having your psyche wrapped in a beautiful green duvet full of birdsong and illuminated by a dappled filigree of light. “I was born here in June 1940,” Chris told me. “I’m still ticking on, but only just. I can’t do it all now and I shall have to bring in people from outside - but you’ve either got to pay a good wage or you’ve got to have them on a voluntary basis. The National Trust has voluntary people so my daughter was keen on me trying that out. If I employ someone I’d have to make it more commercial - and that’s not doing anything for the wildlife, which is what I set out to do. “I made the first pond here,” Chris went on as we sipped tea in the garden. “Then we made the next pond and the swans came in - and they wanted more room - so I moved out into another field. And so it went on. “Dad came here when he was young - his father set him up here because it used to be a county council farm. Just after I left school the county said they were going to sell some of the farms - so dad bought it. He had a small dairy herd and he kept a lot of pigs.” As for how the nature garden began, Margaret had a few choice words to say… “This was just a hobby to start with - now it’s a hobby gone mad,” she laughed. I pointed out that it wasn’t the kind of beautifully manicured garden which people normally open to the public. Town Tree is wild and unkempt and overgrown in many places… “I didn’t do it to open to the public, but for the wildlife and for a hobby,” chuckled Chris. “Then I was being called a bit of a lunatic, so the council came round and said did I want to open to the public? My reaction was: who the bloody hell would want to come here and walk around? “But we went to Torquay on holiday one day and I was sat there watching them go up and down to the beach all day - and I thought: I dunno there’s nothing here, not really. I thought: I don’t know if people aren’t looking for somewhere to go and if I were to open and run it, it might help the nature garden to expand. I opened for 12 months and we’ve been open ever since. It’s not a commercial thing because that is not good for the wildlife. “I have no idea how many people come a year. A few hundred? We just trust people to put the money in the honesty box. The experts leave us alone because I’m an odd-bod. They’ve all been to university and they are all highly educated - but where’s the common sense? They’ve got none. “There was no trees here. No water. Only the old orchard out the back and there wasn’t many of those trees because dad kept pigs and they rooted them up. Some of the poplars here are now 110-feet high. I put them in, but someone said they wouldn’t be any good. They all grew. When I was young and I came out that door what I would see would have been a bloody great big pig. Now we’ve got 100-foot trees. “We’ve always done a bit here and there to make things meet,” Chris mused as the birds san and the breeze rippled through the poplars and the oaks. “We had trouble with the otters at one time and they were having all the fish. Someone said they don’t like things that are moving. So I went off and got 12 televisions and put them around the islands and around the pond and switched on. They weren’t too happy over at Kingsbury because they could hear them at night. “But lo-and-behold I went out there one night and one had killed a fish right by the television. Now there are no fish and the otters have moved on. “The JCBs you see out the front - one of them was working until last year and then he had the wobbles, and that was that. We’ve got ‘un for sale if you want one. “Now the main thing is that the rushes are spreading so fast and we can’t get in there by machine, so it has to be done by hand and I can’t do that anymore. We need a couple of chaps that can handle a boat and a hook.” Suddenly the breeze picked up as a zephyr blew through in the midday heat, and Chris looked up at the trees and said: “When we have a gale force wind though here I say - they’ve come to prune the trees. Like that one there, look, leaning over - you give ‘un another 12 months he’s going to say bye-bye. Tiz nature. I got brambles out there 15-foot high - all the birds go there and feed - but if you get in your car and drive to Bridgwater, see how many brambles you’ll see. None.” I put it to Chris that he had a special talent for landscaping - because a tour around the nature garden is like a never ending adventure and the path turns this way and that, opening new vistas and points of interest all the time… “I can walk in anywhere and landscape it in no time at all,” he shrugged. “A builder who used to come and pick me up because when he bought property he’d take me there and say - what can I do with that? He got very rich in the end. I can walk in anywhere and landscape it, but I can’t put it on paper. Just common-sense isn’t it? When you come to a place like this, or anywhere else, you pick up the vibes. Peaceful. That is one of the reasons I did it.” At this point Chris became philosophical… “Someone said to me not long ago that he wasn’t feeling well and he wondered if we die, would we go to heaven? I said - hang on! You’re in heaven now, my son. You don’t know what is coming after this. But this is heaven. You’ve got absolutely everything you want. You’ve got all this - trees, plants, animals…” The thought seemed to cause the old farmer to become a little political: “There’s too many people,” said Chris wafting a hand at the great noisy world beyond his natural oasis. “Give every girl a good pension if she only has one child and in three generations everything would be put right. “No, I have never thought about going into politics,” he laughed before adding, as if in explanation: “I’ve only got one tooth left.” Single tooth or no, I’d vote for him.
- From Exmoor to Sarawak food: Bracken
You can find yourself thinking weird things during a lockdown, like this, for example… If we humans disappeared along with all those powerful machines that help us keep nature in check, who would be king of our West Country jungle? Bracken would probably have a good shout. At this time of year the great green frond is cropping up all over the place. It totally dominates many wild untamed hilly areas like the Quantock Hills, but as summer gets into gear it begins to creep beyond the high heaths and into the lowland hedgerows. In evolutionarily terms it’s no wonder bracken may be considered to be one of the most successful ferns. It is one of the oldest plants we have, with fossil records that stretch back over 55 million years – and its generally agreed to be the most successful fern there is. First you see its short single finger of a frond beginning to unfurl, looking for all the world like some alien intruder that been lying dormant underground. That, indeed, is part of bracken’s storyline - it does have that Triffid look about it - if ever there was going to be an invasion of verdant body-snatchers, bracken would be up there among the culprits. You can eat these very young bracken shoots - they're supposed to taste a bit like asparagus - but I have eaten young bracken in Borneo, of all places, and it wasn’t asparagus that came to mind. Bracken shoots are regarded as a delicacy in the Far East, but I think there is something just too green about their appearance - those tender fronds seem to shout "Watch out - I'm poisonous." Of course bracken does become poisonous in its adulthood - or carcinogenic anyway. The spores that collect under its feathery branches are not healthy things to inhale – indeed, a Danish scientist published a study in 2004 showing that the carcinogenic compound in bracken can leach into the water supply – which he said may explain an increase in the incidence of gastric and oesophageal cancers in bracken-rich areas. I’ve always had a fondness for the plant because it seems to signify the wild places, which I happen to love – but that last bit of information is enough to put me off the King of the West Country Jungle for ever. By the way, this is our 62nd day of lockdown - I only began doing this diary three days after the start. nd today I am left wondering if there is anything such thing as a lockdown. The Minehead road was packed earlier, as was the seafront and all the town’s supermarket car parks. What lockdown? I came home in a hurry, I can tell you.
- Celebrating VE Day in Roadwater
We are not allowed to gather for VE Day, for obvious reasons - so I thought I’d put up a few photos from the last time my village of Roadwater gathered en-masse for a celebratory event. It was June 2120 - the Queen’s 60th Jubilee. These are in a completely random order. I have managed to retrieve them off a corrupted camera disc - if I can find the originals I will put them up in better quality and there are 100s more I took that day. And a few more - remembering they are in random order - and somewhere I do have lots more from this event… And the last ones for now - Roadwater Recreation Ground Jubilee Party June 2012
- Hot Smoking
What a truly beautiful day - not a cloud in the sky,. Time to take up smoking again…. I’m not talking about the evils of tobacco, instead I refer to the primeval joys of having the tang of wood-smoke flavouring my food. It really is that time of the lockdown when you’ve tried everything and anything to liven up the freshness and vibrancy of your food offerings, only to be frustrated by meals which turn out to be just that little bit more dull than perhaps they should be. A while ago my friend Alyson Murray, of the specialist barbecue equipment firm Hot Smoked (based in Wellington), sent me one the starter kits after which her company is named. The hot smoked kit introduces non-smokers to the art of adding woody fragrances to food. Basically, it consists of a small steel box and a number of bags of different wood chips. You select a handful of, say, oak or beech chips and place them in the box (which has ventilation slots), lay this in a hot barbecue and close its lid. Hey-presto, you’ve got a hot-smoker. As I write, the Hot Smoked wood-chip box is now sitting on a bed of glowing charcoal and smoking like the Flying Scotsman climbing a steep main-line incline. What this cave-man style of cooking does is give even the blandest of food an opportunity to shine. Even a cast iron pot full of vegetables can gently smoke its way into a different league. After a while the chunks of potato, carrot, parsnip and capsicum begin to soften and caramelise - just like they’d do in a conventional oven. But there’s something about the waft of woodsmoke that takes the vegetables into another realm, especially if they are slow-cooked over many hours. Some people say there’s a umami hit which comes from the smoke. But I think it goes deeper than that. My theory is that humans have been cooking over open fires for the best part of a quarter of a million years - so we’ve become hard-wired when it comes to enjoying the flavours which woodsmoke can impart. We’ve only had clean-burning electric or gas ovens for a tiny fraction of that time - so it would make sense if the pleasure-receptors in our brains had become attuned to the taste of wood-smoke escorting the foodstuffs we love to eat. If you were to simply boil chunks of potato, carrot and parsnip along with a few other vegetable bits and pieces and put them on a plate, you probably would not be deafened by the round of applause, even from your most hungry guests. But you try slow-roasting them over a live flame with a bit of woodsmoke involved… For extra punch you can add de-skinned cloves of garlic to the mix - or roast entire heads of garlic on top of the veg before squeezing out the flesh and mashing it to a creamy paste. Add this to an egg yoke and knock up some home-made mayonnaise to go with the roast smoked vegetables, and suddenly you are in the land of trendy restaurant cooking. This smokey version of aioli goes amazingly well with chicken - especially the hot-smoked chicken you can cook on your barbecue at the same time as the vegetables. Some would say it goes even better with hot-smoked salmon. And, indeed, what is better than hot-smoked salmon? Not much. But I can tell you that lightly-cured slices of belly pork (which you’ve prepared yourself by keeping the meat in a container full of salt, sugar, pepper and spices for 24 hours) cooked in the same smokey barbecue will please a meat-lovers beyond almost anything imaginable. Think: thick, juicy, fragrant slices of smokey bacon… The world is your smoked oyster, so to speak, when it comes to the act of cloaking your food in fragrant woodsmoke. But you can overdo it. You can make foods too smokey - and certainly you would not want to eat smoked food every day. But as an easy - almost foolproof - way of jazzing up your late-winter dinner parties, adding a touch of oak, beach or cherrywood smoke is one of those no-brainers. Try it once and you’ll soon be kicking yourself you never took up smoking before. You can check out Hot Smoked at https://hotsmoked.co.uk
- Asparagus
I haven’t been going out much. In fact, for more than 50 days now I’ve hardly been anywhere outside my valley - but one trip I am intending to make is over the Withycombe to buy some of Steve Crossman’s wonderful asparagus. Fresh asparagus represents one of the crowning glories of the English food year, and the season is about to come to an end - but there is still just time to get out there and buy some bunches of the good stuff here in the West Country. Grab it while you can, I say. No other vegetable offers you quite such a bang for your bucks. It might not be the cheapest green item at the greengrocer’s, but it does offer good value for money if you value flavour over weight. A little bit of asparagus goes a long way, especially if you ignore all previous advice and utilise those woody stalks that people normally throw in the compost. A modern high powered blender - of even better one of those extremely gutsy smoothie-making machines - will knock seven bells out of those stalks so that you can use the resultant puree to flavour stocks for soups or risottos. All you do is whizz the stalks up in some water, or perhaps a mix of full cream milk and water, then bung it all in a saucepan with other flavourings. If I am making a spring or summer soup then I’ll use up offcuts from my organic veg box - things like chopped cauliflower or cabbage stalks, carrot tops, onion sprouts and so on - all go to make a glorious vegetable stock and can be whizzed up in the same machine. The important thing is to pass the finished slow-cooked stock through a fine sieve to extract any woody bits, and you are ready to begin making a light summer soup or a nice fresh seasonal risotto. For a pure and simple asparagus soup, I’d leave out the other offcuts, but I would I fry some new-season onion and garlic chopped fine until it is just cooked through, then add the little green cylinders snipped from the rest of the asparagus stalk above the woody bit. However, I keep back the plump and tender tips until just before serving. You can add a little flour if you want to make a weak roux which will thicken your soup a bit, then start adding that magical, homemade, stock - which actually should have the ability to thicken the soup on its own. I also bung in some good local cream. Season all this as you go and add the precious tips just a couple of minutes from the end - and you should end up with an asparagus soup that will match anything you’d see in a top restaurant. It’s all about keeping things simple when it comes to asparagus. Why would you want to add anything else? When I serve it as vegetable, all I add is butter and maybe just a little pepper and salt with the tiniest squeeze of lemon. And if I’m just spoiling myself and my wife, I’ll go for a plain bowl of the stuff - no cutlery, just fingers, a napkin and a glass of dry but fruity white wine. Perhaps the most simple and best way to prepare asparagus of them all is simply to put the asparagus into a roasting tin, pour a little olive oil over it with a sprinkle of coarse sea salt. Shake and roast for a dozen or so 15 minutes - and prepare yourself for one of those sensual, voluptuous, experiences which make life worth living. “Don’t buy asparagus unless you can hear it squeak,” I was told by West Somerset asparagus farmer Stephen Crossman. “That’s the best way to tell if it’s fresh. With the best will in the world, the stuff from places like Spain cannot be as fresh as this.” Cornish chef David Williams once told me: “I would say Cornish asparagus tastes better than any I’ve cooked with in any other place. Asparagus seems to have a natural affinity with the sea and the coast - for example, the asparagus we used when I worked in one of the world's top Michelin starred restaurants, in Paris, came from the coast at Normandy. But I’d say this local Cornish version is better.” For decades the main British crop was grown in and around the Vale of Evesham before cheap air freight saw it being imported in huge quantities from Peru, which is the world’s largest exporter of asparagus. But in recent years more and more farmers have begun nurturing the difficult to grow spears here in the West Country. “Peruvian asparagus you can get all year round nowadays, but in my opinion it is entirely without flavour,” said Mr Williams. “I know it is difficult to grow here and that farmers sometimes get just a few weeks harvest out of their crop - but the Cornish asparagus is far superior. You have to treat it with respect - for example it should be stored like a flower, standing up. Asparagus sizes range from slender, young ‘sprue’ to thicker-stemmed, jumbo-sized pears - and some farmers refer to misshapen stems as ‘kitchen’ grade. It is an expensive crop for growers to produce as it takes about three years for asparagus plants to become established, and even longer to reach a fully productive state. It was the Romans who first brought asparagus to Britain with the Romans and for a long while it did thrive in certain coastal corners of the country as a wild plant. It has a high tolerance of sandy, salty soil and will grow along riverbanks, shores of lakes, and coastlines - which is why some horticulturalists believe it was originally a coastal plant. A few swear that adding a dose of salt to ground when preparing it to plant the crowns helps the spears to mature more quickly and firmly. In the past couple of years asparagus has become so popular in Britain that major supermarkets have been putting money into new high quality, early season varieties that can be grown in this country. One, called Jubilee, has won plaudits from foodies for its distinctive flavour. But many chefs have an unshakeable belief that the West Country spears are best. “If you really want to get the full flavour from the very freshest local asparagus, don't cook it,” David Williams advised. “My favoured way to eat it is raw - I simply use a veg-peeler to take off the thin but fairly hard skin and then put the thin spears in salt and olive oil for five minutes. This has the affect of almost 'cooking' it, but it will give you the ultimate asparagus flavour…"
- Desert Dreaming
Funny the things your mind begins to miss on a cold, damp, grey drizzly day during lockdown. My mind has turned to memories of the various deserts I have visited down the years. And the little towns with their amazing markets. How come they can grow such amazing vegetables in the middle of warter-less deserts when I am struggling to grow a single radish here? Must be something to do with the cold and the dark grey skies today. Anyway, I am not going to write much today because I’ve been busy editing my old novel, The Last Broomsquire, which I hope to release on the internet soon as the hard copies have apparently sold out. So here are some more photos from various visits to deserts down the years, if you’ve feeling cold, grey and drizzled upon… And now just a few curious shots from hot deserts down the years, like abandoned American tanks, beautiful hand-woven rugs hanging on a wall in a forgotten Sarah village, and a man in an unr. WTF was he doing in that urn? I just can’t remember all these years later. Oh, and me on a camel…
- Remembering The Manor
This website was never meant to get close-up and personal, but so many people have contacted me over the past 24 hours on social media asking about the old manor house where we lived for years, I thought I’d put up a few more photos I’ve just found and scanned. A lot of these were taken during one memorable New Year’s party we had there. Our get-togethers on those occasions really did become legendary - sometimes w’ed have more than 50 people sitting down for a 7-course dinner - which I’d cook. God knows where I got the money or the energy from. There are some legendary West Somerset characters in these photos - alas, some of them have gone on to that great lockdown in the sky now… Altogether I lived at the manor for over 15 years - at first renting a flat at the rear of the house form my old friend Sir Edward Malet. Later I returned there to live with my beautiful wife Sue and our little boy Harry and then our wonderful daughter Nancy… One of my brothers, John, even built a beautiful gaff-rigger in one of the barns while we lived at the manor. We had some very, very, good times in that old house.
- Cider Songs at the Manor
Many years ago I rented this old manor house in the Brendon Hills. I lived there for 14 years and attempted, rather hopelessly, to run a video, filming and media business from its many vast rooms. Alas, it turned out that I was a truly hopeless. businessman. Great ideas, absolutely useless business brain. Anyway, we had a lot of fun. And one of the many memorable times we had (not that I can remember much of it) was when a whole bunch of folk singers turned up so we could record some old cider-songs for a video documentary I was making. You can have a listen to them in this podcast…
- Miracle Camera That Survived 100 Storms
They say miracles don’t happen, but sometimes they do. Which is good to know in these strange and uncertain times. During the winter I watched as my tiny GoPro camera was swept away by giant waves on a North Devon beach. Naturally, I thought I’d never see the camera again - and, even if I did, it would certainly be wrecked. But for once The Wrecker’s Coast did not live up to its name. After three months of winter storms the GoPro was found on Hartland Quay beach by a local family who cleaned off the tiny camera and managed to get it working! Having spotted me on the footage - as well as recognising well-known North Devon fishmonger Dan Garnett - they were able to track me down on the internet and inform me that my camera was safe and sound. I thought it was a hoax at first - but then I went to meet Tanya Hall and her daughter Scarlett who found the camera underneath a rock on what must be one of the wildest, roughest beaches in England. I could sort of half-believe that someone might find the camera - but the fact that it was still working after three months of being pounded on The Wrecker’s Coast just didn’t seem feasible. Tanya’s partner Jack Coleman couldn’t believe it either - and he is qualified to make such a judgement… Jack is a full-tine coastguard in the area and he commented: “This coast doesn’t take any prisoners - so for a GoPro to survive these waters is amazing!” Even staff at the internationally renowned GoPro company have been surprised: “We make our cameras to be some of the most rugged you can buy,”said Isabel Pakowski, director of communications at GoPro. “So we are excited and admittedly also impressed this GoPro proved us right and survived three months of pounding in winter storms under the water off a rocky beach on the Atlantic…” It was in early December 2018 that I went to the beach at Hartland Quay with my friends Christos Yianni and Mike Twine so that we could meet up with Dan the Fishman (as Dan Garnett is better known) and create a unique Christmas seafood picnic for the festive pages of the newspaper where I worked. I had my little GoPro Hero 4 with me so thought I might use it to take a few video shots of proceedings. After all, it’s not often half-a-dozen blokes decide to have a cook-up on a beach in the middle of a December storm. I had the bright idea that if I put the waterproof GoPro down on a rock at the point where the huge waves had become reduced to ripples, high up the beach, it could be immersed in the foam and show how wild conditions were. It was a stupid idea - because right at the moment the mother and father of all waves came roaring in and I had to leg-it up the beach or be drowned. As the tide dropped we spent an hour searching for the GoPro, but it had disappeared into the ocean without trace. Three long months later Tanya and Scarlett visited Hartland Quay. “We were just walking on the beach looking for crabs - and my mum found this strange thing and it was a GoPro,” said Scarlett. “I didn’t recognise what it was at first - it was underneath a rock,” said Tanya. “So I just pulled it out and then realised it was a GoPro. I thought we might be able to find out who it belonged to.” It was Jack and Tanya’s mother, Amanda Parselle, who carefully cleaned the salt off the camera and managed to charge it so they could see the footage on board and find out to whom it belonged. “That’s when we saw Martin’s face on the footage - and Dan the Fishman. We managed to find Martin’s name on Facebook - and that was it,” said Jack. When young Scarlett handed me back the camera she was just a little disappointed to be saying goodbye to such a fun camera. However, so impressed have GoPro been by the miracle story, they sent the family a brand new camera to enjoy, as an unlikely gift from the sea. And I got one from GoPo too… So we were all very happy indeed by the Tale of the Miracle Camera That Survived 100 Storms
- Wild Food - Nettle, Wild Garlic and Pea Risotto
A surprising number of people have contacted me after I put up a Facebook showing photos of nettles and wild garlic which I then made into a risotto. The pea, nettle and wild garlic rice dish was delicious and easy to make. I collect just the tops of the nettles - by which I mean the top two leaves. Obviously I wear gardening gloves for that job, but you don’t have to - the tips don’t really bite if you just pick them between finger and thumb. When I made the risotto the other night I simply washed the wild leaves well in a colander then put them in a non-stick pan with a lid and cooked them down with just a sprinkling of water. Once they were completely wilted you may as well have been looking at cooked spinach. I squeezed this hard, so all the fluid came out - then put it on the chopping board to cut it down and down with a knife. This is preferable to put it into a blender because you don’t really just want an amorphous paste - far better to have your risotto flecked with little bits of green. Then I simply made a risotto the normal way, adding these veg and the peas towards the end of cooking. But as an added extra I did finish the dish off by putting it into a hot, smokey Morso pizza oven for the final few minutes - the savoury smokiness this gives a final melting knob of butter puts the dish into another realm. As for the the details of knocking up a quick wild garlic pesto of my own… Basically what you need is a fistful of herbs (just the wild garlic or you could add other herbs - a mix of whatever’s growing in the garden), a smaller amount of nuts (I am not that fond of pine-nuts so tend to go for a few walnuts, cobnuts or blanched skinned almonds), some hard cheese (parmesan, but some hard English cheeses like a very mature unpasteurised cheddar can be fantastic), a clove of garlic (not with the wild garlic pesto) and a squeeze of lemon juice. These ingredients are all placed into the mini-food-processor I bought specially for the pesto-making task, and whizzed with some good glugs of quality extra virgin olive or rapeseed oil. If the cheese you’ve used hasn’t been salty enough, you can always bung in a big pinch of Cornish sea-salt after tasting. And that’s it. Within seconds you will have a small cup or bowlful of the closest your garden will ever get to producing rocket-fuel - at least, in the flavour stakes… A spoonful or two thrown in to any kind of fresh cooked pasta creates an instant and delicious lunch, but you can also use it as a side sauce for meats or fish or as a marinade. Stir a little into a spring vegetable risotto and you will have a vegetarian dish worthy of an award winning restaurant, add it to soups or stews and you can transform the weary and overcooked into something that fresh and full of zing. In fact, that is the word: homemade pesto can add zing to half the savoury dishes you’ll ever make - it’s just a mystery we Brits never stumbled across the idea before. Alternatively you can make this nettle salsa…. Nettle salsa 50g Nettles 17g Flat leaf parsley 25g Gherkin 25g Capers 15g Anchovy ½ tbsp Dijon mustard 45g Rapeseed oil 45g White wine vinegar Salt to taste Place all the ingredients into your blender and blitz until emulsified, check the seasoning and leave to one side. Just one other - thing - we’ve been doing a lot of gardening recently - like everyone else who has a garden during this lockdown - but today we resorted to our ultimate gardening technique - which was the big burn….
- More Wild Garlic - Plus Recipes
So far in this series I’ve done a couple of articles mentioning wild garlic - it really is a good year for out here on Exmoor and the stuff is everywhere. So here’s an entirely new piece on the subject - and I’ve made it one of the Lockdown Diaries because I see that over 1000 people looked at the last one and I’ve had a lot of positive remarks. Just one guy tweeted a mild rebuke, saying that my humble writings about wild food could inspire hordes of people to go out picking stuff which would soon have a detrimental hit on Mother Nature. He has a point, except I would echo the present advice NOT to go out anywhere but in your own near vicinity. I’d also add that as long as no one did it commercially (something I would very much abhor) I really can’t see a bit of seasonal picking can do much harm. A thousand people could pick a handful of wild garlic in our valley at the moment and you wouldn’t notice any difference. There are acres of it - and you really do only need a handful, it’s so powerful. Nature is generous when it comes to the signs she gives us which herald the beginning of the end of winter and the accompanying emergence of spring. First snowdrops, then primroses begin to illuminate the West Country hedgerows along with a plethora of other flowers, but it is wild garlic that waves a joyous flag at the weary cook who would otherwise be suffering what has become known as the “hungry gap”. And now is the time when brassica vegetables which have overwintered, such as brussel sprouts cauliflowers and certain cabbages, start to bolt as the days get warmer - yet most gardeners will still have a wait to endure before they can harvest the first broad beans or other early crops. Wild garlic leaves are capable of adding a pungent, fresh, garlicky spin to soups and sauces. Not many people actually use wild garlic as a plain vegetable, although having written those words I am preparing myself for the onslaught of emails from those that do. Two decades ago I wouldn’t have heard a single whisper, because back then few folk picked or ate ramsons. Now that seasonal foraging has become popular, a great many people go hunting for wild garlic. I know that because a few years ago I tweeted the fact I was writing on the subject and received quite a few recipes in return… One was from the Hon. Mrs Caroline Clifford, ex Master of the Minehead Harriers, who said she lived at Porlock with her husband Rollo, younger brother of Lord Clifford. She wrote: “There are two types of wild garlic leaves which I pick locally. First, out before Christmas (we live by the sea at Porlock Weir), is Allium triquetrum commonly known as the three cornered leek and looks like a white bluebell. Next out from March is Allium ursinum or ramsons. “It has a broad leaf and is very strong. Use sparingly!” warns Mrs Clifford. “Our family favourites for these foraged leaves are, wild garlic pesto and the soup.” You can see Caroline’s wild garlic soup recipe below, but I can’t pick ransoms nowadays without recalling a cookery class at attended last year, given by the brilliant chef Mark Hix in his West Dorset home. Mark said pickers had gleaned his supply from the soft warm underbelly of southern Cornwall at a time when my local ramsons on Exmoor weren’t peeping even a tiny spear above the ground. However, my local supply has been appearing in the last week - Exmoor might be two or three weeks behind the sheltered valleys of Cornwall in terms of nature’s cycle, but when the temperatures do warm up the deep vales of the Brendon Hills are capable of producing vast carpets of the green aromatic leaves. I’ve used two of the plant’s common names so far, by the way - it’s also known as buckrams, broad-leaved garlic, wood garlic, bear leek or bear's garlic. I’ve also hinted at its usefulness in the kitchen, but it is worth repeating the health warning: every year there are cases in which people have been poisoned after eating the similar looking leaves belonging to Lilly of the Valley. Well… similar when young. As they mature over a few days, you should easily be able to see the difference. The wild garlic leaves are slightly convex and smooth edged with a single main vein, whereas the Lilly of the Valley has irregular edges and numerous deep veins. Anyway, that’s the official health warning. I would advise anyone who has even the slightest scintilla of doubt not to go out harvesting ramsons unless escorted by an expert. The garlicky pong should be enough to give you a green light - but get it wrong and you could become very green indeed before turning a shade of blue. The act of picking wild garlic reminds me of another chapter from my culinary past. I have spent time walking in the mountains of Greece where folk from cities and towns flock to the countryside in springtime in order to pick this season’s fresh new wild herbs which they call “horta”. I recall being on a Cretan mountainside and meeting a bus driver who was picking “horta” alongside a wealthy businessman. They told me that Cretans go mad for such seasonal delights and enjoy nothing better than a trip up into the hills to help themselves, whether by posh limousine or by beaten up old motorbike. The rich man, who’d arrived in a Mercedes, didn’t really need those mountain greens to feed his family, but he was passionate about the flavour. The bus driver’s hunt for the wild herbs was undoubtedly honed by the thought of cost-saving, but he too told me it was more about the delicious health giving qualities of horta than cost. Natural landscapes all over the world are filled with such delights, and people in many societies seem hard-wired to appreciate that fact. In post industrial Britain we seem to be only just getting around to reconnecting to nature’s bounty. Which, unlike the chap who tweeted a rebuke earlier this week I think is a good turn of the tide. Because when we humans value something, we tend to look after it better - and our green environments could certainly do with a bit more tender loving care. Recipes The Hon Mrs Clifford’s wild garlic soup Pick a single handful of wild garlic leaves washed and picked over, save some individual white flowers to garnish 1 large onion 2 large potatoes (approx 400g) 150g butter Approx 3/4 litre liquid. Tasty home made stock is best, but milk, or a mixture of milk and vegetable water is also delicious Seasoning Cream (optional) Method Peel and quarter the potatoes, boil in well salted water until cooked. Meanwhile, finely chop the onion. Melt 100g of butter in a medium sized pan, add onion and cook over low heat until transparent. Drain the potatoes and roughly break them up, saving some of the liquid, if using as stock. Very finely shred the garlic leaves and add 2 tbsp to the onions in the pan, along with the rest of the butter and the potatoes. Stir over heat for a minute to wilt the leaves then purée adding half your preferred liquid(s). Slowly add more of the leaves, blitzing and tasting as you go. Season with plenty of salt, some pepper or a small pinch of cayenne to taste You should now have a glorious green soup, which I like to finish with a swirl of cream and sprinkle of the saved white flowers. At his cookery master class Mark Hix showed me how to make a wild garlic flavoured mayonnaise which could accompany all manner of dishes - in that case it was a crisp but lightly battered cuttlefish… For the mayonnaise 2 egg yolks (at room temperature) 2tsp white wine vinegar1tsp English mustard2tsp Dijon mustard 1 tsp saltPinch of freshly ground white pepper100ml olive oil mixed with 200ml vegetable oil Juice of half a lemon (optional)A handful of ramson leaves Put the egg yolks, white wine vinegar, mustards and salt and pepper into a stainless steel or glass bowl and beat together with a whisk. Do not use an aluminium bowl, as it will make the mayonnaise go grey. Very slowly pour the oils into the bowl, whisking continuously. If the mayonnaise is starting to become too thick, add a few drops of water and continue whisking in the oil. When the oil is mixed thoroughly with the egg mixture, taste, re-season if necessary and add a little lemon juice. Blend the ramson leaves and fold in to the mayonnaise. Buttermilk-fried Lyme Bay cuttlefish Serves 4 400g cleaned cuttlefish 100g buttermilk 100g gluten free self-raising flour 1 tsp ground paprika 1 tsp of ground cumin A pinch of onion salt Preheat about 8cm of oil to 180C in a large thick- bottomed saucepan or electric deep-fat fryer. Cut the cuttlefish into 3-4 cm pieces, including the tenticles. Place the buttermilk in a bowl, add a third of the paprika and cumin and mix together. Place the flour in a bowl, add the remaining cumin, paprika and onion salt and mix. One by one, put the cuttlefish pieces in the flour, then into the buttermilk and finally into the flour again. Do not knock off excess flour or buttermilk as you need a slightly rough, bubbled almost popcorn-like finish when deep-fried. Place the pieces of cuttlefish a couple at a time in the fryer and cook for 2-3 minutes. Remove from the fryer with a slotted spoon and place on kitchen paper to drain.









