Finding these quiet, untamed corners of the island brought back a flood of memories from a trip I took to Cyprus nearly 35 years ago. It was February half-term, and back in the UK, it was cold, grey, and raining. Desperate for a bit of sun and warmth, we booked a last-minute deal to Paphos. But Cyprus has a way of surprising you. On one of our day trips, we found ourselves waist-deep in snow.