Bequia: The Green Jewel of the Grenadines
Updated: Sep 7
Hidden away in the Grenadines, Bequia is one of the Caribbean's best-kept secrets. While nearby Mustique attracts celebrities and St Vincent draws adventure travellers, Bequia moves to an altogether gentler rhythm. This tiny island of just over 5,000 people offers glorious beaches, friendly locals, excellent restaurants and some of the most relaxed island life I have experienced anywhere in the Caribbean.
How to Get to Bequia
Our little island plane dropped off two local passengers at Carriacou before heading north across the dreamy isles mentioned to arrive at the green, green jewel of Bequia. From the small new airstrip, we were taken by specially adapted pick-up truck – which is the ubiquitous form of public transport on this island - to the wonderful and luxurious Bequia Beach Hotel, where I could happily have retired from journalism and just about everything else forever.
🏝️ Where to Stay in Bequia
Looking for the perfect Caribbean escape? Compare boutique hotels, beachside guesthouses, apartments and villas across beautiful Bequia.
Luxury on the Sands of Friendship Beach
The resort is set on the slopes of the hill which run down to palm-strewn gardens and a beach. Friendship Beach to be exact – which has now entered my list of Top 10 beaches in the world. Think warm seas washing soft sand, shaded here and there by dramatically drooping trees and punctuated at one point by the hotel’s bar and excellent restaurant.
It wasn’t the busiest season when we were there and the only things we shared the beach with were pelicans and crabs. When the heat got too much our large, air-conditioned, sensationally decorated apartment was a stylish refuge if ever there was one.
Island Life at Ten Miles Per Hour
A complete island tour took just three hours despite the fact we never went above 10 mph—and included stops at different altitudinous viewpoints, visits to wild beaches tucked beyond mighty palm groves, and a fascinating tour around Bequia’s Old Hegg Turtle Sanctuary.
There are about 5,000 Bequians – they’re of African, Scottish, Irish, French, Indian and Carib descent – and English is the main language spoken. I’d heard that these islanders have an open friendly attitude to visitors and it is true - you can experience the full and jolly brunt of it if you spend a morning or afternoon in the tiny capital Port Elizabeth.
The Laid-Back Charm of Port Elizabeth
Nothing much happens save for the comings and goings of the St Vincent ferries, as well as the pick-up truck taxis. There’s a small market, quite a few intriguing shops and the general laid-back buzz that somehow pervades the numerous restaurants and eateries where you can order all manner of Caribbean foods and dishes. I went for conch salad – which was excellent in a chewy kind of way.
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And Port Elizabeth – like all of Bequia – is beautiful to look at. Sublimely, dreamily, enticingly, beautiful. If you wander along the Belmont Walkway, a narrow coastal path that hugs the harbour, you’ll find hidden bars like Jack’s Beach Bar where the punch is strong and the sunset views over Admiralty Bay are peerless.
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Exploring the Grenadines Archipelago
As you sit there sipping a cooling cocktail it is easy to think that this is the best location for a holiday in the world – until you remember the happy fact that you are not tied to just one destination.
Bequia is part of the St. Vincent and the Grenadines chain, a constellation of islands that includes the celebrity-haunt of Mustique and the cinematic Tobago Cays. With the Just Bequia option, you get two for your money—pairing the quiet sophistication of this island with another nearby gem. It is a reminder that in this part of the world, the journey is just as evocative as the destination.
Why Bequia Feels Different
There are Caribbean islands that dazzle with casinos, designer boutiques and sprawling resorts, and then there is Bequia. Here, life still seems to unfold at a gentler pace. The roads are quiet, the harbour is filled with fishing boats and graceful yachts rather than giant cruise ships, and people have time to stop for a chat. Nobody appears to be in a hurry. There is an easy friendliness that cannot be manufactured for tourists and a refreshing absence of glitz. It reminds me of the Caribbean I first discovered many years ago, before mass tourism transformed so many islands. Bequia has somehow managed to preserve its soul, and that, more than its beaches or sunshine, is what makes it so memorable.
Bequia Fact File: Essential Travel Information
Where is Bequia?
Bequia (pronounced Bek-way) is the second-largest island in the nation of St Vincent and the Grenadines, situated in the southern Caribbean roughly 9 miles (14 km) south of the main island of St Vincent.
How to Get There:
By Ferry (Most Popular): Regular, scenic passenger ferries (such as the Bequia Express and Admiralty Transport) run multiple times daily from Kingstown, St Vincent, into Port Elizabeth, Bequia. The crossing takes approximately 60 to 75 minutes.
By Air: Small chartered flights and scheduled island-hopper services (e.g. SVG Air) operate into Bequia’s J.F. Mitchell Airport (BQU), primarily connecting via Barbados or St Vincent.
Currency & Payments:
Eastern Caribbean Dollar (XCD / EC$). US Dollars are widely accepted across the island, and major credit cards are taken at larger hotels and restaurants, though having cash on hand is recommended for water taxis, local markets, and small bars.
Language: English (official) and Vincentian Creole.
Getting Around the Island:
Colourful open-backed "dollar buses" and licensed taxis operate across the island; local water taxis run frequently between Port Elizabeth harbour and popular shores like Princess Margaret Beach and Lower Bay.
Best Time to Visit:
December to May marks the dry, warm high season with consistent cooling trade winds.
Top Things to Do on Bequia
Despite measuring just seven square miles, Bequia offers a rich blend of classic West Indian maritime heritage, sheltered sandy coves, and relaxed harbour life. Here are the highlights not to miss:
1. The Best Beaches
Princess Margaret Beach: Named after the late royal who swam here in 1958, this wide golden-sand bay features calm turquoise water ideal for swimming and snorkelling, backed by lush green cedar trees.
Lower Bay: Just around the headland from Princess Margaret Beach, Lower Bay offers a quintessential Caribbean beach scene—unhurried, fringed with sea grape trees, and home to a handful of laid-back rum shacks.
Friendship Bay: Situated on the south coast overlooking the Grenadine channel toward Mustique, this long, curving beach is breezier and quieter, making it ideal for coastal walks and watching local fishing boats.
Spring Bay: A wilder, Atlantic-facing bay lined with towering coconut palms, perfect for a solitary stroll away from the yachts.
2. Walks & Coastal Trails
The Belmont Walkway: A charming stone and timber footpath skirting the water’s edge along Admiralty Bay, connecting Port Elizabeth directly to the beaches. It is one of the most scenic coastal ambles in the Caribbean, dotted with waterfront cafés and boat sheds.
Peggy’s Whim & Mount Royal: For the island’s finest vantage point, hike up to Mount Royal—Bequia’s highest elevation at just under 900 feet. The trail rewards you with sweeping panoramic views across Admiralty Bay and down through the southern Grenadine archipelago.
Hamilton Battery: A short, uphill walk north from Port Elizabeth brings you to the remains of an 18th-century lookout post, offering sweeping views over the harbour entrance.
3. Local Bars, Food & Island Life
Port Elizabeth Harbour Market: Spend a morning browsing the vibrant waterfront stalls in the main town, laden with fresh breadfruit, mangoes, nutmeg, and locally caught mahi-mahi and tuna.
Jack’s Beach Bar: A classic seaside stop situated directly on the sands of Princess Margaret Beach, renowned for fresh local grilled seafood, cold Hairoun beer, and rum punches as the sun dips below the horizon.
Frangipani Waterfront Bar: A legendary gathering spot for yacht crews, sailors, and locals alike on Admiralty Bay, famous for its lively Thursday night barbecue and local string band music.
Model Boat Building: Drop into Sargeant Brothers or Benson’s workshops to watch master craftsmen carve intricate, perfectly scaled replicas of traditional West Indian sailing vessels—a craft deeply rooted in Bequia’s seafaring heritage.
Frequently Asked Questions About Bequia
Where is Bequia?
Bequia is the second-largest island in the Grenadines and forms part of the Caribbean nation of Saint Vincent and the Grenadines. It lies about nine miles south of St Vincent and is known for its relaxed atmosphere, beautiful beaches and sailing culture.
How do you get to Bequia?
Most visitors either fly into St Vincent before catching a ferry to Port Elizabeth or arrive on a small inter-island aircraft. There are also flights from Barbados on certain routes.
Is Bequia worth visiting?
Absolutely. Bequia offers a quieter Caribbean experience than many better-known islands. Visitors come for the beaches, sailing, excellent restaurants, friendly locals and wonderfully relaxed pace of life.
What is Bequia famous for?
Bequia is famous for Friendship Beach, Admiralty Bay, Port Elizabeth, colourful fishing boats, sailing, turtle conservation, traditional boatbuilding and its laid-back Caribbean atmosphere.
How many days should you spend on Bequia?
Three to five days allows enough time to enjoy the beaches, explore the island, visit Port Elizabeth, take a boat trip and simply slow down into the island's easy-going rhythm.
What is the best beach on Bequia?
Many visitors consider Friendship Beach to be the island's finest, with soft sand, calm turquoise water and very few crowds. Princess Margaret Beach and Lower Bay are also popular choices.
Is Bequia expensive?
Accommodation ranges from luxury hotels to guesthouses and self-catering apartments. While some resorts are exclusive, eating in local restaurants and travelling by the island's pick-up taxis makes Bequia surprisingly affordable.
When is the best time to visit Bequia?
The dry season between December and May generally offers warm sunshine, lower humidity and ideal conditions for sailing, swimming and exploring the island.
