If you're looking for an exotic getaway from the grey spring weather of Northern Europe, Tunisia might just be the perfect destination for you. With less than three hours of flying time from the UK, Tunisia offers a wide range of landscapes, from sand to salt to stony deserts, making it an ideal destination for adventure seekers and nature lovers alike. Tunisia is not just about the massive Mediterranean resorts located up and down the central coast. In recent years, Tunisia has come of age and is now offering boutique-style hotels in some of its lesser-known resorts, making it a unique and affordable destination for travellers. Djerba One of the best places to visit in Tunisia is the flat island of Djerba, where you can experience colorful markets in the main town of Houmt Souk, with its dazzling and piquant flavorings at the spice market. Stay at the exquisite “boutique” hotel, Dar Dhiafa, a rabbit warren of ancient buildings surrounding endless courtyards, offering a mix of Djerban specialties prepared with a French spin. Tataouine For those seeking an adventure, head south to the desert. You'll cross the long low causeway that links Djerba with the mainland and travel in a big four-wheel drive through the amazing salt pan deserts. Then, you'll enter a mountainous district and the hot but vibrant town of Tataouine, where you can explore the genuine North African souk at the market, climb the lesser-known Ksar Debbab and the Berber village of Douiret, and see black Berber tents and beautiful sky blue clothes wafting on washing lines amid the cliffs. Ksar Ghilane Finally, you'll see what you’ve travelled thousands of miles to observe - a vast ocean of dunes. Ksar Ghilane, an oasis in the middle of the desert, offers several tented camps run by various tour operators as sort of romantic hotels where you can live the dream of desert life. After a long camel ride across the dunes to visit some lost and ancient fort, enjoy a traditional meal cooked by Berber people under the stars in an open nomad’s tent. After such an experience, chill out for a while by the sea at the family-run Residence Soltana at Zarzis, set in walled gardens of great beauty. Tunisia is an inexpensive yet breathtaking destination, and you can stay at Dar Dhiafa in Djerba, Pansea Tented Camp, or Residence Soltana for reasonable prices. For more information, contact the Tunisian National Tourist Office or visit their website. Whether you're seeking adventure or relaxation, Tunisia is the perfect destination for you. Book your trip now and experience the magic of this exotic North African country for yourself.

We recently visited Huangshan City, located in the southern part of China’s Anhui Province. We weren’t there for long - and it was a very hot day so walking about the old streets was probably not a good idea anyway. The area is renowned for its mountains, often enveloped in fog, and they attract countless visitors - but the city itself is a treasure trove of heritage, art, and history that deserves attention. Exploring East and South East Asia? Check out my full archive of regional features, luxury stays, and travel stories on the new South East Asia Travel Hub. Beyond the Mountains: Discovering Anhui’s Cultural Heartland Most travellers know Huangshan for its legendary peaks — the granite needles and twisted pines perpetually wrapped in sea-of-cloud mist. But on a blistering hot afternoon in southern Anhui, we set out to explore the city itself, uncovering a treasure trove of Huizhou heritage, traditional craftsmanship, and historic streets that offer a fascinating look into old China. A Stroll Through History: The Old Streets of Huangshan City 🏮 Tunxi Ancient Street: A Glimpse into the Past 🏯 Tunxi Ancient Street, known as "Tunxi Laojie" (屯溪老街), is the beating heart of Huangshan’s cultural scene. Spanning nearly 1,200 metres, this historic street is flanked by well-preserved Qing Dynasty-style buildings, traditional tea shops, and artisanal stores. Walking along its cobblestone pathways feels like stepping back in time. Here, visitors encounter intricately carved wooden facades, red lanterns swaying above, and the rich aroma of local teas filling the air. Must-Visit Shops and Tea Houses: Tunxi Ancient Street is famous for its huangshan maofeng tea. Sip a warm cup in one of the cosy tea houses or pick up local handcrafts, like calligraphy brushes and inkstones, to take home as unique souvenirs. Architectural Highlights: Admire the well-maintained Anhui-style architecture, characterised by horse-head walls and ornate wooden latticework that tell stories of generations past. Chengkan Village: A UNESCO-Honoured Marvel 🏠 Just a short drive from the city centre, Chengkan Village (呈坎村) is another gem that immerses visitors in traditional Huizhou architecture. Known for its maze-like layout and symmetrical design, Chengkan is a testament to ancient wisdom and the locals’ respect for nature and harmony. UNESCO World Heritage Status: Chengkan Village, along with other nearby Huizhou villages, is recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, celebrating its timeless architectural integrity. Photographic Highlights: White-walled buildings with dark-tiled roofs set against the lush greenery make Chengkan a photographer’s paradise, perfect for capturing serene snapshots of traditional China. Museums of Huangshan City: Dive into Art and History 🎨 Huangshan City Museum: Uncovering Huizhou Heritage 📜 For those eager to understand the city's rich cultural history, the Huangshan City Museum is a perfect starting point. This modern museum is dedicated to showcasing the Huizhou culture, which has influenced Chinese art, architecture, and philosophy for centuries. Exhibits on Huizhou Merchants: One of the highlights of the museum is its focus on the Huizhou merchants who, from the Ming to the Qing dynasties, developed a thriving trade and brought prosperity to the region. Learn about their contributions to Chinese literature, calligraphy, and the economy. Artifacts and Architecture: The museum itself is designed with a touch of Huizhou style, merging ancient motifs with modern aesthetics. Inside, visitors can admire antique furniture, calligraphy, and folk art from the Huizhou region, along with centuries-old pottery and ceramics. Workshops and Experiences: Engaging workshops in the museum allow guests to learn calligraphy, traditional Chinese painting, and even inkstone carving—a craft that Huizhou is famed for. Why Huangshan City Should Be on Every Traveller’s Itinerary 🧳 Huangshan City offers an authentic glimpse into China’s historic Huizhou culture, with its architecture, crafts, and well-preserved streets. The blend of old-world charm and deep-rooted traditions gives travelers a unique opportunity to immerse themselves in a slower, more reflective side of Chinese culture. As you stroll through ancient streets, explore historic villages, and engage with the rich exhibits at the local museum, Huangshan City unveils its timeless allure—a true destination for anyone passionate about history, art, and culture. Tips for Visitors 📌 Best Time to Visit: Spring and fall offer the most pleasant weather for exploring both the city and nearby mountains. Getting Around: While taxis are available, renting a bicycle or walking is an enjoyable way to experience the city’s sights and sounds. Language: English is limited, so basic Chinese phrases or a translation app will be helpful. Experience the Spirit of Huizhou Culture in Huangshan City 🎎 With its captivating streets, vibrant museums, and centuries-old architecture, Huangshan City is more than just a stopover on the way to the mountains—it’s a cultural journey into the heart of traditional China. Frequently Asked Questions: Visiting Huangshan City **How far is Huangshan City from Yellow Mountain (Huangshan Scenic Area)?** Huangshan City (Tunxi) serves as the main travel hub for the region and is located roughly 60 kilometres (about a 1-hour drive or bus ride) south of the main entrance to Yellow Mountain (Tangkou Town). **What is Huizhou architecture?** Huizhou architecture is a traditional Chinese style famous for its stark white exterior walls, dark grey roof tiles, decorative "horse-head" gables designed for fireproofing, and intricate wood, stone, and brick carvings. **What food and drink is Huangshan famous for?** The region is renowned for Anhui Cuisine (one of China's Eight Great Traditions), featuring wild herbs, braised river fish, and bamboo shoots. It is also world-famous for Huangshan Maofeng green tea and Keemun black tea.

Into the Marine Wilderness: Returning to the Similans Years ago, when I first visited the Similan Archipelago — situated about 40 miles off the mainland north of Phuket — it felt like stepping into an underwater paradise. Even my wife, who’d so recently been savaged by a giant iguana as she swam in the sea elsewhere, couldn’t resist immersing herself in the underwater wonders of the Similans. Slipping below the surface was like entering the busiest tropical fish tank you could ever imagine. Countless varieties of vibrant fish weave through intricate coral gardens in water so clear that visibility routinely exceeds 30 metres. On shore, the crew of our sailing ship brought massive barbecues onto the sand, allowing us to lunch on the very edge of the jungle. But not before I’d trekked up the steep trail to the island’s high point, passing a poignant reminder of the 2004 tsunami: a simple hand-painted sign nailed to a palm tree showing stick figures running uphill toward safety. Today, while the islands remain as breathtakingly beautiful as ever, strict environmental controls have been introduced to preserve this delicate paradise for future generations. Planning a trip across the region? Explore my full collection of island guides, culinary adventures, and travel features on the new South East Asia Hub. It was like entering the busiest tropical fish tank you have ever seen. I cannot begin to describe the countless varieties of colourful fish that weaved about the corals before our eyes. The crew of our sailing ship brought massive barbecues ashore and we lunched on the edge of the jungle. But not before I’d climbed to the 1,000-foot peak of the island seeing, on the way, the one singular manmade item that spoke of the terrible tsunami that had so violently hit just about everywhere we’d been. It was a small sign nailed to a palm tree and on it was a kid’s painting depicting some big waves and a stick-man running away up hill. It pointed to the jungle path that took me steeply away from the sea. Exploring the Similan Archipelago: A Hidden Gem in the Andaman Sea Geography & The Granite Boulders Located in the Andaman Sea off Phang Nga Province, the Similan Archipelago consists of 11 small islands forming Mu Ko Similan National Park. Unlike many of Thailand’s famous limestone karsts in Phang Nga Bay, the Similans are composed of ancient granite sculpted over millions of years by wind and sea. This unique geology creates two distinct landscapes: Above Water: Towering granite cliffs, iconic rounded boulders balancing precariously over white sand beaches, and dense tropical rainforest. Below Water: Submerged labyrinths, deep swim-throughs, and dramatic rock drop-offs that host some of the healthiest reef systems in Thailand. The Similan Archipelago, located approximately 70 kilometres off the coast of Phang Nga Province in Thailand, is a group of islands that make up one of the most pristine marine national parks in Southeast Asia. Although less known than other tropical destinations, the Similan Islands attract a steady flow of visitors seeking a more tranquil and less commercialised experience. This feature will provide a closer look at the islands' natural beauty, key attractions, and practical advice for travellers. Geography and Formation The Similan Islands sit in the Andaman Sea, known for its clear waters and abundant marine life. These islands are relatively small, with the largest being just over 5 square kilometres. Their formation dates back millions of years, largely shaped by volcanic activity and the subsequent erosion of granite rocks. Over time, the unique landscape, featuring towering cliffs and large boulders scattered across white sandy beaches, has been sculpted by wind and water. The underwater topography of the region is equally fascinating, with submerged rock formations creating intricate reef systems that support a vast array of marine species. The archipelago's coral reefs are among the healthiest in Thailand, largely due to strict environmental protections in place. Diving & Marine Biodiversity The waters surrounding the Similans are legendary among divers worldwide. The combination of nutrient-rich currents and protected status allows marine life to thrive. Top Dive Sites: Elephant Head Rock: Named for the mammoth boulder breaking the surface, this deep dive features thrilling swim-throughs and frequent sightings of reef sharks and moray eels. Christmas Point: A maze of granite channels near Island 9 where pelagic species like barracuda, trevally, and leopard sharks patrol. East of Eden: Famous for sprawling hard and soft coral bommies teeming with macro life, nudibranchs, and seahorses. Mega-Fauna Sightings: Between November and May, gentle giants such as Manta Rays and Whale Sharks are regularly spotted along the deeper drop-offs. One of the primary draws for visitors is the incredible diversity of marine life that thrives around the Similan Islands. The area is a haven for scuba divers and snorkelers, offering some of the clearest waters in the region. Visibility often exceeds 30 metres, allowing divers to explore vibrant coral gardens, underwater caves, and dramatic drop-offs. The reefs here host an impressive variety of fish species, including parrotfish, butterflyfish, and triggerfish. For those interested in larger marine life, sightings of manta rays, whale sharks, and turtles are not uncommon, especially during the high season from November to May. The Similan Islands are one of the few places in Thailand where these gentle giants can be seen regularly, making it a bucket-list destination for underwater enthusiasts. The National Park authorities have made considerable efforts to preserve this biodiversity by limiting the number of visitors and placing restrictions on certain activities, such as fishing and coral collecting. These measures have helped maintain the integrity of the ecosystem, though the area continues to face pressures from climate change and tourism. Essential Visitor Information & Conservation Rules To protect the coral reefs from over-tourism, Thailand's Department of National Parks (DNP) enforces strict visitor regulations that every traveller must know: Seasonal Closure: The entire park is closed annually from May 16 to October 15 during the monsoon season to allow marine ecosystems to recover and ensure safety. Visitor Caps: Daily entry permits are capped, and all visitors must book through licensed tour operators in advance. No Overnight Stays: Accommodation on the islands (tents and bungalows) has been discontinued to reduce plastic waste and wastewater impact. All visits are now run as day trips or liveaboard diving cruises. Single-Use Plastics: Single-use plastics are strictly banned within the national park boundary. Islands of the Similan Archipelago While all 11 islands of the Similan Archipelago are part of the national park, not all are accessible to visitors. The park authorities have restricted access to several islands to protect sensitive ecosystems, particularly the nesting grounds of endangered sea turtles. Here’s a brief overview of some of the more popular islands that travellers can explore: Koh Miang (Island 4): This is the second-largest island and a common stop for day-trippers and liveaboard boats. Its picturesque beach, Ao Kao, is one of the most photographed spots in the archipelago. The island also has a short nature trail where visitors can spot the endemic Nicobar pigeon, a rare sight in Thailand. Koh Similan (Island 8): The largest island in the archipelago, Koh Similan is known for its distinctive boulders, particularly the famous “Sail Rock,” which offers panoramic views over the surrounding sea. The beaches here are expansive and often uncrowded, providing a peaceful spot to relax between dives or snorkelling sessions. Koh Haa (Island 5): Less visited than some of the larger islands, Koh Haa is a good option for those looking to escape the more frequented tourist routes. The island is surrounded by crystal-clear waters, making it a perfect place for a quiet swim or snorkel. Koh Tachai: Located further north from the main group, Koh Tachai is a relatively new addition to the national park and has gained popularity in recent years for its stunning beaches and excellent diving opportunities. However, it was temporarily closed to tourists in recent years to allow the ecosystem to recover from the pressures of mass tourism. Getting There and Getting Around The Similan Islands are most commonly accessed via speedboat or live-aboard boat from the mainland. The nearest departure point is the town of Khao Lak, which is well-connected to major destinations like Phuket and Krabi. Speedboats typically take 1.5 to 2 hours to reach the islands, while live-aboard boats, which allow travellers to stay overnight and explore the islands more thoroughly, offer multi-day trips. Once in the Similan Islands, visitors are limited to walking and swimming, as motorised transportation is prohibited. The islands are small and easily navigable on foot, with well-marked trails leading to scenic viewpoints and beaches. Practical Tips for Visitors Seasonal Closures: The Similan Islands are only open to tourists from November to May each year. The rest of the year, the national park is closed to allow the ecosystem to recover from the impact of tourism. Accommodation: There is no accommodation on the islands themselves, except for basic camping facilities on a couple of islands like Koh Miang. Most visitors stay in Khao Lak or opt for live-aboard trips, which provide accommodation on the boat. Permits and Fees: As part of a protected national park, visitors must pay an entrance fee, which goes toward the conservation of the islands. Fees are typically included in the cost of organised tours and live-aboard packages. Sustainability: Visitors are encouraged to minimise their environmental impact by avoiding single-use plastics and ensuring they do not touch or damage the coral reefs. Some operators offer eco-friendly diving certifications and programs, which teach participants about responsible marine tourism. Conclusion The Similan Archipelago offers a unique experience for travellers seeking a quieter, more nature-focused getaway in Thailand. Its remarkable underwater world, diverse marine life, and well-preserved natural beauty make it an ideal destination for divers, snorkelers, and nature enthusiasts. While the islands are becoming more popular, efforts by the Thai government to manage tourism sustainably provide hope that this slice of paradise will remain unspoiled for future generations to enjoy. Frequently Asked Questions: Visiting the Similan Islands **How do I get to the Similan Islands?** Most day trips depart from Thap Lamu Pier in Khao Lak (Phang Nga Province), which is roughly a 1- to 1.5-hour drive north of Phuket International Airport. Speedboats take around 75–90 minutes to reach the islands from the pier. **When is the best time of year to visit the Similan Islands?** The park is open from October 16 to May 15. The optimum window for calm seas, prime diving visibility, and whale shark sightings is between December and April. **Can you stay overnight on the Similan Islands?** No. To minimise environmental impact, overnight stays on the islands are no longer permitted. Visitors must either join a day trip returning to Khao Lak/Phuket or stay aboard a registered liveaboard dive vessel. **Is snorkelling good for non-divers?** Yes. The shallow bays around Island No. 4 (Koh Miang) and Island No. 8 (Koh Similan) offer incredible snorkelling directly from the beach or moored boats, with calm conditions and abundant marine life near the surface.

A Traditional Welcome on the Lemanak River After an hour (some of which was spent at high speed) we reached the long-house where we’d be staying as guests of the local Iban people. I could hear the welcoming bell before we arrived – a woman and a child came down to the river bank to greet us and we were marched ceremoniously up to climb the ancient steps cut out of a single log, which took us aloft to the entrance of the long-house. I was first in line to enter the long communal living space and was given the traditional greeting of fluttering flower petals - thrown over me as if I were some errant bridegroom. I was also given a compulsory cup of tuak, homemade rice wine, which set proceedings off with a buzz. Exploring the Longhouse of the Iban Tribe By now it was the end of the afternoon and we had a choice of chilling out in the long-house or going for a jungle walk. We did both. First we explored the long-house, which is home to 30 different families. This particular one is only half built on stilts - its back end sits on a hilltop high above the river, but most long-houses are elevated some 20 feet above the forest floor - for obvious reasons given the number of creepy-crawlies in such places. The Iban are very laid-back indeed. They don’t seem to mind in the least as you wander about their communal home – and don’t even seem to care if you walk into their own private living quarters. These are located behind doors down one side of the long-house – in the middle there’s a wide communal area – and on the other side runs a long raised platform which is where we slept under the mosquito nets that the Iban put out for us at night. To see more of our post from South East Asia click here We sat about drinking green tea with the locals for a while – watching them making mats, baskets, handicrafts and mending fishing nets. A Magical Walk in the Borneo Rainforest But then, as Henry was preparing our dinner in one of the private quarters, my companion and I went for a long stroll in the rainforest. Which may have been a slightly foolish thing to do looking back on it – there’s no dusk in the tropics and if we’d lost our way we’d have been forced to endure a night out under the trees. Not particularly dangerous, but uncomfortable if not painful in the sense that there are a lot of things that can bite you in the jungles of Borneo. As it was, this was probably the most magical walk I have taken in all the years I’ve been writing about hiking for a living. Only by being alone in a rainforest – or perhaps with just one other person – can you truly absorb the sensation of being somewhere that is so incredibly alive and so mysteriously exotic. We returned safe, but rather speechless and, after an amazing multi-course meal knocked up by the indefatigable Henry, we joined the “Tuai Rumah” (headman) to spend an evening socialising. The Iban put on a bit of a show for us, dressing up in traditional head-hunter gear and dancing to hypnotic music which they played on a collection of weird instruments. It was the only bit that seemed a bit touristy – but then, this was my adventure’s big bow to the world of eco-tourism. And we were paying to be there and we’d bought gifts - which now had to be handed over with a great amount of wine-fuelled ceremony. By now I’d moved onto the homemade rice whiskey, which helped me endure a painful poison spider bite I suffered during the dancing. It was the only unpleasant moment of the whole crazy, magical, baffling, enchanting adventure. I didn’t meet the Wild Man of Borneo, but I did meet a wilder wide-eyed bit of me that only surfaces somewhere so remote and exotic. And that alone was worth the 30 hours of air travel and the jetlag. Learning Traditional Iban Cooking in Borneo Ancient Cooking Techniques in the Sarawak Rainforest While I was in Borneo I thought I’d take the opportunity of learning more about authentic primeval cookery from the experts. Things are still a bit antediluvian when you go way, way, up into the rainforest. In the remote hills there are people who know hardly anything about the modern world, although a tribal chief I met deep in the rainforest did say goodbye to me with the words: “Would you like my email address?” I’d met the Tuai Rumah (as the chieftain is called) and his charming ex-head-hunter people in their communal longhouse situated high up the Lemanak River, in the Sarawak province of Northern Borneo – and, after some negotiations with our local guide Henry, the villagers agreed to take us out into the rainforest and show us some of their skills, which started with the boatbuilders. They also insisted on showing us the cock-fighting, which wasn’t such a thrill for us Westerners. Next came hunting skills - mainly with a homemade blow-pipe. And the villagers were keen to show us how they still obtain their own supply of rubber from the trees. Rubber collection by the Iban people Frequently Asked Questions Can tourists stay in an Iban longhouse? Yes. Several traditional longhouses in Sarawak welcome visitors as part of community-based tourism experiences, allowing guests to learn about Iban culture, customs and daily life. Where are the Iban people from? The Iban are one of the largest Indigenous peoples of Borneo and live mainly in the Malaysian state of Sarawak as well as parts of Indonesian Kalimantan. What is a longhouse? A longhouse is a large communal home shared by multiple families. Traditional Iban longhouses are built along rivers and are designed to encourage community living while adapting to the rainforest environment. Is it safe to visit the Borneo rainforest? With an experienced local guide, the rainforest is generally safe to visit. Visitors should be prepared for heat, humidity, insects and uneven jungle trails.

A classic lunch served in Vietnam From the "Mamas’ Nights" of Cam Ranh to the breakfast Pho of Hoi An—how to bring the magic of Southeast Asian flavours to English produce. Very few people indeed can live decadently off the fat of the land…. That is what I was thinking one day recently as I watched an old lady serving freshly cooked food to some 30 people from a barrow on a street corner in Vietnam. Wherever you go on this planet you will find that the most widely popular recipes are those which utilise a small quantity of highly flavoured ingredients to enhance the greater bulk of a dish. To see more of our South East Asia posts click here The Philosophy of Balance in Vietnamese Flavours By drawing out every last atom of flavour from, say, a cheap tough cut of meat you can easily add magic to something bland like potatoes, pasta or rice. The old lady on the Hoi An street corner had been up since dawn making stock from chicken carcasses so that she could sell her version of pho, which is probably the most popular dish in South East Asia. In Vietnam they like to eat the intensely flavoured broth poured over cooked rice noodles, with plenty of fresh cut herbs and a squeeze of lime, for breakfast - a habit I found easy to adopt during my fortnight’s holiday in that hot and fascinating country. The Art of Bulking Out Food to Make it Go Further But while a savoury and fragrant soup for breakfast might appeal to many traditional English diners, we also have been evolving the bulking-out trick for as long as history can recall. Indeed, meat-and-two-veg - arguably the most classic British dish of them all - is our best known way of eking out a bit of meat in our attempt to feed a family. The flavoursome gravy made from all those meat juices goes a long way in helping the blander tasting vegetables to provide a balanced meal. The same in this country applies to a good old fashioned stew or hot-pot. Bones and tough cuts of meat are slow-cooked for hours to bring out flavour so that all manner of blander root vegetables can be added. One of the tastiest dishes on our national menu, for example, is oxtail soup - a concoction made flavoursome by using nothing more than bone and sinew. As long as it’s done carefully and with a bit of planning and forethought, the humble a fish cake can provide another example of clever “bulking out”. To be honest, though, we’ve become a little lazy in the making-few-ingredients-go-far game since globalisation allowed us to cherry-pick all manner of toothsome foodstuffs from poorer countries. Indeed, it has traditionally been those poorer countries which have been the most inventive in this respect - a fact which now, ironically, sees the cuisine of such places being universally identified as the most healthy. Take the Mediterranean diet enjoyed in Italy as the most obvious example. Many of the dishes we now pay good money for in Italian restaurants were originally conceived as a way of making the basic combination of flour and water go much much further. The average pasta dish is a work of genius in this regard. The Italians evolved a vast array of pasta shapes especially so they could absorb or hold as much of a thinly spread but flavoursome sauce as possible. Even the much-maligned pizza is a masterpiece when it comes to the concept of making a few tasty morsels go far. A pizza, after all, is nothing but a disc of crispy, doughy, bread crowned with a thin, usually intensely flavoured, topping. What excites me about travelling to such places is that I can learn the local tricks and bring them home. In that way we can utilise amazing English produce in a bid to both economise while boosting the flavours produced in our own kitchens. From Market Stalls to the Cooking Station In Vietnam, two of the hotels I visited hold regular cookery courses for their guests. A few hundred yards from where the old lady was making pho in Hoi An, the lovely riverside Anantara Hotel (https://hoi-an.anantara.com/) employs a local woman to stage the classes in a special open air kitchen, where I learned about the local take on the ubiquitous Vietnamese spring roll, as well as how to cook an amazing caramelised belly pork dish that I shall most certainly be making at home. Several hundred miles to the south in a sumptuous coastal resort called The Anam (https://www.theanam.com/) on the northern Cam Ranh Peninsula, I witnessed (and tasted the results of) an innovation I have never seen before, but which I believe could be emulated elsewhere. Once or twice a week the resort stages special “Mammas’ Nights” when the mothers of the local staff are invited (and paid) to come in and cook traditional dishes and family favourites for the guests. Dumplings with dipping sauce Mastering the Secret of Traditional Noodle Broths It is a huge and popular success. Certainly I enjoyed a host of dishes I’d never tasted or even heard of before. The next day one of the hotel’s chefs gave me a two hour cookery lesson and provided me with the recipes which we include here… The Vietnamese Nem Cua Be would be fantastic with some local West Country pork, prawns and crab meat. As we speak I am making the chicken with lemon grass (from a bird bought from a local farmers’ market) - but am also using up the chicken carcass to make a simple stock for my own Somerset version of pho. Vietnamese Nem Cua Be Ingredients 200 g cooked shrimp peeled, deveined Finely chopped 200 g cooked pork 2 tbsp fish sauce pepper15 g shallots chopped15 g sprigs coriander chopped20 g dried wood ear mushrooms (available from supermarkets or Asian food stores) soaked and finely chopped 30 g cellophane (rice) noodles soaked and chopped1 cup carrot, shredded50 g bean sprouts chopped1 egg500 g white crab meat (I suggest adding a little of the brown as well)vegetable oil for frying, rice paper wrapper (bánh đa nem - available online or from Asian shops) Method In a large mixing bowl 200 g shrimp peeled, deveined and finely chopped, 200 g pork minced, 2 tbsp fish sauce, pepper and mix well with your hands. Then add in 15 g shallots, the coriander, 20 g dried wood ear mushrooms finely chopped, 30 g cellophane noodles soaked and chopped, 1 cup carrot and 50 g bean sprouts chopped and mix again thoroughly. Finally add in the crab and mix again.Wrap the mixture with at least 2 layers of the rice paper wrapper, rolling it in the way you would with a spring roll. Fry for around three minutes a side until crisp all over.Simmering Fish in a Clay Pot Ingredients 200g fill fillet (a cheap Westcountry species like gurnard would be ideal) 3 tbsps sugar 1 tbsp salt 50 ml fish sauce 5 g black pepper 20 sliced ginger 30 g spring onion 2 fresh red chilli 10 ml vegetable (or similar) cooking oil 1/2 tsp dark soy sauce 2tsp finely chopped shallot and garlic 50 ml fish stock. Method Make caramel: 2 tbsp of sugar with a little cooking oil in a hot pan - cook the sugar until it’s dark brown in colour then carefully add 30 ml of water (watch out, it will spit - stir until the caramel is made. Marinate the fish in remaining sugar, salt and fish sauce for about 30 minutes. Heat a clay pot (I used a Spanish version which I bought in a UK supermarket, but an oven proof pan like a Le Creuset would do) over a medium heat, put in the garlic, shallot and sauté until it becomes fragrant. Add the marinated fish and cook gently. Add the dark soy sauce, and the stock and simmer for 10 to 15 minutes, then decrease the temperature and cook until the sauce is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Sprinkle with the black pepper and spring onion - garnish with sliced red chilli and serve with steamed rice. Martin Hesp taking part in a cookery lesson in Vietnam Frequently Asked Questions About Vietnamese Cooking Classes What do you typically learn in a Vietnamese cooking class? A traditional Vietnamese cooking class almost always begins with a guided tour of a local market to select fresh produce. In the kitchen, you will learn the art of balancing the five core flavor profiles while mastering staple techniques such as preparing authentic dipping sauces, rolling fresh summer rolls, and achieving the signature depth of a slow-simmered Pho broth. Why are fresh herbs so important in Vietnamese cuisine? Unlike many cuisines that cook herbs down, Vietnamese culinary tradition uses massive quantities of raw, fresh herbs—such as coriander, mint, perilla, and Thai basil—as a core texturing element. They add crunch, vibrant colour, and essential brightness that cuts through rich or fried dishes, ensuring every bite remains balanced. Is Vietnamese food difficult for beginners to learn? Not at all. While the depth of flavour in Vietnamese cooking can taste incredibly complex, the actual cooking techniques—such as quick wok-frying, steaming, and assembling fresh ingredients—are remarkably straightforward. The true skill lies entirely in the preparation, the knife work, and learning how to taste and adjust the balance of ingredients

The word exotic can conjure many images, but imagine finding yourself in the middle of a heady world that seems to encapsulate everything you’ve ever dreamed could combine to create its meaning. In a hot perfumed wind not long ago I found myself walking along a moonlit street next to a tropical river. Around me there were lanterns everywhere, and thousands of people strolling up and down the alleyways and across footbridges that provided this magical place with countless thoroughfares. Hoi An is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful and historic cities in South East Asia, where centuries of maritime trading heritage have left a stunning architectural melting pot of mustard-yellow merchant houses, traditional silk-tailoring workshops, and exceptional riverside street food. Countless candles bobbed about in tiny paper boats. Old ladies were selling these illuminations to passers-by, then rowing them out into the middle of the stream in their sampans so customers could place the candle in the water and make a wish. Nearby a crowd sitting in a makeshift bamboo grandstand was laughing at the antics of a street theatre. A peddler was selling some kind of toy that you could spin and send flashing blue lights 50 feet into the night sky. Everywhere the makers of street food were frying, roasting or boiling savoury scented dishes. And then there was the illuminated bridge - all dragons and lanterns - that took you across to an island where everything you’d just seen before was multiplied a hundredfold. I was entering the night-market, one of the highlights of ancient Hoi An. One of the highlights, indeed, of the whole of Vietnam - and one reason as to why the old port is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. A Masterclass in Slow Travel By banning motorised vehicles from the historic centre every afternoon, Hoi An has become a premier example of sustainable, slow travel in Southeast Asia—allowing conscious travellers to escape the modern rush and explore its ancient timbered streets entirely at a human pace. The name means translates as "peaceful meeting place” but it is busy every night of the year nowadays. This, however, does not mean Hoi An isn’t an interesting and truly fascinating to visit - especially during daylight hours when the fabulous local restaurants are a great deal less crowded. Most of the visitors are Vietnamese, but I didn’t see a single car park or park-and-ride like you’d see at most celebrated, popular or historic European or American cities - apparently some arrive by rail. Not that the absence of transport links was bothering us - we were staying at the gorgeous Anantara Hotel located just five minutes walk from Hoi An’s old town on the banks of the Thu Bon River. Architecture, Silk Tailoring, and Central Market Tapas At the heart of this UNESCO World Heritage site is a brilliantly preserved architectural melting pot that reflects Hoi An's golden age as a major 16th-century trading port. Walking down the car-free streets of the Ancient Town, your eye is immediately drawn to the iconic mustard-yellow facades, distinct Chinese assembly halls, and elegant Japanese merchant houses. The absolute jewel of this heritage is the world-renowned Japanese Covered Bridge (Chùa Cầu), a unique, pink-hued timber structure first erected in the 1590s to link the Japanese and Chinese trading quarters. These ancient timber buildings, with their dark exposed beams and intricate terracotta tiled roofs, have miraculously survived centuries of regional conflict and seasonal floods, standing today as a testament to the town's rich multicultural soul. The Bespoke Silk Tailoring Heritage Beyond the striking architecture, Hoi An’s global reputation is inextricably tied to its world-class silk-tailoring industry, a direct legacy of its position on the maritime Silk Road. The narrow alleyways are home to hundreds of skilled, independent tailors who can famously transform high-quality local silks, linens, and wools into perfectly fitted suits or dresses within a matter of hours. This is far from mass-production; it is a traditional, meticulous craft passed down through generations of local families. Stepping into a quiet, fabric-lined workshop allows you to participate in a highly personalised piece of living history, choosing your own patterns and watching master cutters measure, stitch, and drape fabrics using techniques that haven’t changed for over a century. Central Market Tapas and Regional Flavours This historic blending of cultures is just as evident on the plate, particularly if you dive into the bustling, aromatic stalls of the central riverside market. Hoi An boasts its own unique, highly localised style of street-food "tapas" that you won't find anywhere else in Vietnam. The headline dish is Cao Lau, a rich bowl of thick rice noodles, tender sliced pork, and crisp greens, topped with crunchy rice crackers; crucially, the authentic noodles must be mixed with water drawn from the secret, ancient local Ba Le well and lye made from the ash of local island trees. Alongside this, be sure to pull up a low plastic stool to sample White Rose dumplings—delicate, translucent shrimp pastries crimped to resemble flowers—and crispy Hoành Thánh (fried wontons topped with sweet and sour pork), showcasing a perfect culinary marriage of Vietnamese freshness and Chinese technique. A driver from the hotel had picked us up from the nearest airport at Da Nang, which is a larger city just 40 minutes north of Hoi An - and we’d been enjoying the conformable delights of the riverside resort between making forays out into the tropical sun. The historic part of the city - known as Old Town - is one of the best preserved examples of a Southeast Asian trading port dating from the 15th to the 19th centuries and its many jumbled buildings laid out around an easy to follow street plan reflect a blend of both Vietnamese and foreign influences. One of the best known structures is the covered "Japanese Bridge", dating to the 16th or 17th century. But eating out is the real big pleasure in this myriad of eateries - I’d recommend Nhan’s Kitchen. Frequently Asked Questions 1. Where is Hoi An located and how do you get there? Hoi An is situated on the central coast of Vietnam, right along the banks of the Thu Bon River in the Quảng Nam Province. Because the town has no airport or railway station of its own, most travellers fly into the nearby city of Da Nang or arrive via the railway line there, before taking a scenic 40-minute taxi or local bus south to the town. 2. Why are all the buildings in Hoi An painted yellow? The town's famous mustard-yellow hue is both practical and deeply symbolic. In Vietnamese culture, yellow represents royalty, prosperity, and change. Architecturally, the specific yellow earth-tone absorbs the intense tropical heat of Central Vietnam while reflecting the bright sunlight beautifully, creating the town's legendary, warm golden-hour glow. 3. What is the best time of day to experience Hoi An Ancient Town? While the early morning offers a quiet, unhurried look at the local vegetable markets and peaceful streets, the town truly transforms at dusk. As the sun sets, motorized vehicles are banned from the centre, and the entire old town switches off its modern electric lights, illuminating the streets and the Thu Bon River solely with the magical, soft glow of thousands of traditional silk lanterns. 4. What makes Hoi An's local food different from the rest of Vietnam? Because Hoi An was a global melting pot for centuries, its cuisine features heavy Japanese, Chinese, and French influences woven into traditional Vietnamese cooking. Signature dishes like Cao Lau and White Rose dumplings are strictly regional, relying entirely on the unique mineral properties of local well water, meaning they cannot be authentically replicated anywhere else in the world.

Exploring South East Asia? Check out my complete guide to the region’s best destinations, hidden gems, and luxury stays on the new South East Asia Travel Hub. Well, as you can see from these photos it’s a rather wonderful place set on a beautiful beach just south of what is a charming and interesting costal city. The whole place is set in a sort of large garden which runs down to a huge sandy beach. Colonial Charm Meets Coastal Bliss: First Impressions of The Anam Once you’re in the garden an air of wonderful, rather blissful peace and quiet seems to pervade everything. Gourmet Dining & Vietnamese Flavours The food is absolutely first class. Beyond the Resort: Exploring the Local Fishing Village And a quick stoll along the beach brings you to a charming fishing village, which I visited several times. Once just in time to see a wedding couple come down onto the beach for a photo session. The Aman Resort in Na Trang, known as Amanoi, is a luxurious retreat located along the coastline within the lush environment of Nui Chua National Park and the UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. This serene setting overlooks Vinh Hy Bay, offering guests an intimate connection with nature amidst stunning vistas. The resort features an array of elegant accommodations, including standalone pavilions, hillside villas, residences, and wellness villas, all of which emphasise natural materials and include features like infinity pools and private spa facilities. Amanoi is renowned for its tranquil ambiance and sophisticated architecture, seamlessly blending grandeur with a cozy atmosphere. The resort's main building houses restaurants and a bar, while the guest accommodations epitomize its elegant style. Guests can indulge in a range of activities such as yoga, Pilates, water sports, spa treatments, and wellness programs, and enjoy scenic walks, running, and trekking routes. The Aman Spa, set beside a lotus-filled lake, forms the heart of the resort, offering a range of treatment suites, hydrotherapy rooms, and extensive areas for exercise and Pilates. Dining options at Amanoi celebrate Vietnamese cuisine with a focus on seasonal produce and the daily catch. Additionally, the Beach Club, situated on a private sandy beach, provides an idyllic setting for relaxation and water-based activities. Amanoi is accessible from Phan Rang-Thap Cham City Center in Ninh Thuan Province with a 50-minute drive. Its secluded location and unique setting make it a sought-after destination for those seeking a meditative and luxurious retreat. In terms of pricing, Amanoi is on the higher end, reflecting its status as a premier luxury resort. Pavilion rates start at around $1050 per night, while two-bedroom villas begin at $3500 per night, and five-bedroom villas at $8200 per night. For those looking to explore beyond the resort, its location pairs well with visits to Ho Chi Minh City or even Cambodia, perhaps staying at Amansara, Amanoi's sister property. The consistent weather in this part of Vietnam adds to the appeal, making Amanoi a suitable destination for travelers seeking luxury in a harmonious natural setting. For more detailed information and bookings, you may visit their official website and other sources such as TravelPlusStyle, Lightfoot Travel, and the Experience Travel Group. Frequently Asked Questions about The Anam, Nha Trang **Where is The Anam located?** The Anam is situated along Long Beach (Bãi Dài) in the Cam Ranh peninsula, roughly 20–25 minutes from Cam Ranh International Airport (CXR) and about 30 minutes south of central Nha Trang city. **What style of resort is The Anam?** The resort features classic Indochine-era design, characterised by French colonial architecture combined with traditional Vietnamese craftsmanship, hardwood finishes, and lush botanical gardens. **Is The Anam suitable for a quiet beach holiday?** Yes. Unlike the bustling high-rise hotel strip in central Nha Trang, The Anam offers a peaceful beachfront sanctuary with multiple swimming pools, open lawns, and quiet access to a long stretch of sandy coastline.

Say the word "market" today and most people picture sterile, fluorescent-lit supermarket aisles where food is vacuum-sealed in plastic and human interaction is entirely optional. But around the world—and right here in our own rural valleys—a very different, ancient tradition survives: the real food market, populated by the hands-on rearers, growers, fishermen, and vendors who actually produce what we eat. Over forty years of journalism and travel across six continents, I have made it my mission to explore these vibrant trading hubs. I have watched flapping seafood auctioned on Scandinavian docks, smelled the fragrant peach-laden air of Provencal village marchés, haggled over mystery skewers in the rainforests of Borneo, and stood in the freezing mists of Cutcombe Market on Exmoor surrounded by ruddy-faced local farmers. Here is my reflection on why real food markets remain the beating heart of human culture, food heritage, and true culinary adventure... Let’s think about markets - I’m not talking about those things with the word “super” attached, but about places where people go to sell things they’ve grown, or produced, or reared. Real markets for real people, full of real food. The Government says that we can now shop in “open markets” - which I take to mean the kind of old fashioned street markets they have all over Europe but we’ve done our best to forget here in the UK. Unless you count the newer manifestation of the ‘farmers’ market’; that is - and what fine places they are… What’s not to like? The entire experience of attending a traditional market populated by stallholders is completely different to turning up at a massive supermarket and wandering around the well-lit, but bland and uniformed aisles. Supermarkets are all well and good in their own way, but they do not afford the kind of human interaction offered in the kind of places where producers or specialist vendors meet and speak with customers. As a consumer, meeting the expert who produces, or specialises in selling, the food you wish to buy makes purchasing goods an altogether different experience, richer in every way imaginable. You can talk to the rearer of pigs about the meat he or she is selling, discuss the merits of this cut or that, learn more about the herbs, vegetables and other things that will be flavouring or enhancing your meals in the immediate future. Global Market Highlights Overview Box Featured Locations: West Country: Cutcombe Stock Market (high on Exmoor) & regional British farmers' markets. Borneo (Sarawak): Serian Market & Dayak trading posts (featuring local street food, woks, and charcoal grills). The Caribbean: Bridgetown Fish Market (Barbados) & Martinique village markets. Europe: Provencal village marchés (France), Dutch cheese markets, and coastal Spanish fish auctions. South East Asia: The famous regulated street-food and hawker markets of Singapore. Core Theme: Celebrating direct human connection with food producers, real regional ingredients, and local food culture over corporate supermarkets. I shall never forget my dubious success in bidding for the biggest bird at Cutcombe market a few Christmases ago, but also I shan’t forget the ruddy, craggy, faces of the farmers and their wives up there on the roof of Exmoor. The collective smiles and nods seemed to me to represent the human visage of agriculture or food production. And that day out - up there in my own native hills - reminded me of other markets I have visited around the world over the last 30 or 40 years. Because I have made it my business, during all the travels I’ve been lucky enough to enjoy and survive in far-flung corners of the planet, to visit food markets of all shapes, sizes, themes and flavours. I’ve been to hundreds of such places - whether it’s been on some rocky Spanish coast in a little fishing village where the fresh caught seafood has been has been sold, still flapping, in a nerve-wracking Dutch-style auction, or an equally fascinating fish-market in a Scandinavian city, so sparkling and clean that you could have eaten raw sushi straight off the floor. I’ve seen ‘em all… From the dairy-scented depths of Dutch cheese-markets to the fragrant village marche of Provence where the air is filled with heady whiffs of peach and cherry. My favourites include the kind of markets you find tucked deep in a rainforest miles from anywhere, where the items on sale are as unknown and mysterious to a European as the outlandish alien creatures in Star Trek. I have reached such markets by boat - travelling miles up long winding jungle rivers - then walking into the hills along red-earth roads leading deep into the forests and suddenly coming across a clearing where a weekly market has burgeoned with humanity. There, in the almost impossible heat and humidity, I have watched men and women dressed in naught but hemp thongs buying the most gaudy sweets imaginable while smoking endless home-rolled, home-grown, cigarettes of dubious content. They have been able to purchase their sugar-filled tooth destroyers thanks to the fact that local townsfolk have been haggling over tiny pieces of rainforest meat that the indigenous tribes people have hunted. I didn’t say traditional markets were always joyous places, but they are real. They do represent that most basic of capitalist edicts - that of supply and demand. They can also be dangerous places. I was once chased by a baying mob from a market on the Caribbean isle of Martinique for taking a photograph. I was fully aware that many people in the more Third World corners of the Windward Islands do not like having cameras shoved in their faces (and who can blame them?) but I did not realise that their fear of voodoo extended to a close-up snap of a pile of vegetables. Not far away, on Barbados, the market traders did not share such sensitivity. I once helped cut up a massive tuna and later photographed a friend who’s a local chef enjoying his morning out shopping amid the smiling faces of Bridgetown’s main fish-market. The basic rule about photographing is to ask. Not that long ago I was in a market in a strict Muslim country feeling most apprehensive about the fact I had a large semi-professional camera dangling around my neck - when some young men invited me to photograph them and their impressive haul of fish. One market which stands out in my memory is the one at Serian, in Sarawak, on the island of Borneo. A friend and I happened to stop in the Dayak Indian trading town on market day, which turned our brief halt into a four hour photographic opportunity filled with brilliant colours. I have never seen so many weird and wonderful foods, even though I’ve spent decades photographing market scenes all around the world. We tasted all manner of delicacies from various stalls bristling with bubbling woks and charcoal grills. Goodness knows what we swallowed - later I saw python and cobra steaks for sale and wondered if some of those morsels I bought for a few pence may once have slithered rather than walked. In my opinion, some of the best markets in the world can be found in Singapore and the great thing there is that you can get to taste the things you want to buy, instantly, before you make a purchase, thanks to the hundreds of street-food stalls that are a feature of this great city. And you needn’t worry about hygiene and the danger of getting ill - which might well be the case in some parts of the world when eating street food – the stalls of Singapore are all colour-coded by government inspectors and so you can tell which which are the cleanest and most hygienic. The markets most like our own - by which I’m talking about the centuries-old markets which used to be a feature of all mediaeval towns up and down the length of Britain – are the busy examples to be found in the rural areas of our nearest neighbours. The village markets in France, Spain, Portugal and Italy are an absolute treat for any West Country man or woman who loves food. Which, finally, brings us closer to home. We still do have some fabulous markets, despite the fact that the giant chains have taken over in so many of our towns. When the lockdown really is finally over, I would love to call on some of our West Country markets and meet producers and vendors who sell what really must be among the best food produce on sale in the region. We’ll take some photographs, and learn about local recipes or be inspired to create some of our own - and the results of these culinary adventures will feature on this website every now and again. Hoi An street market, Vietnam Frequently Asked Questions: Traditional & Global Food Markets What makes traditional food markets different from modern supermarkets? Traditional food markets connect buyers directly with small-scale producers, farmers, and specialist vendors. They offer freshness, seasonal variety, and invaluable knowledge about local cuts of meat, produce, and traditional preparation techniques that you simply cannot find in a supermarket aisle. Where is Cutcombe Market on Exmoor? Cutcombe Market is an iconic livestock and rural market located at Wheddon Cross, high on Exmoor in Somerset. It has long served as a vital agricultural gathering point for hill farmers across the West Country moors. What are the rules for photographing people in traditional global markets? Always ask permission before taking close-up portraits of market vendors or locals, especially in rural or traditional communities. In some Caribbean islands and indigenous areas, cultural or religious beliefs (such as fears surrounding voodoo or spirit capturing) make unsolicited photography deeply unwelcome. What are the best countries in Europe for traditional village markets? France, Spain, Italy, and Portugal lead the way in Europe for preserving traditional street markets. French marchés and Spanish mercados remain central to daily life, offering locally cured meats, artisan cheeses, fresh seafood, and seasonal fruit. "Love authentic food culture and global culinary travel? Read my feature on the street food and music of Sarawak in Borneo, or explore my complete archive of West Country food and drink stories."

Apples, Oak, and 'Time Travellers': A Day in Ciderland Tucked away in the fertile lowlands of South Somerset, where honey-coloured ham-stone cottages line quiet lanes and sheep graze beneath centuries-old standard apple trees, lies Kingsbury Episcopi. For anyone who truly loves authentic West Country cider, this enchanted parish—shadowed by the iconic landmark of Burrow Hill—is sacred ground. Here, cider making is not a modern marketing trend; it is a deep-rooted way of life shaped by generations of orchardists, sunny microclimates, and traditional pressing methods. From the legendary cider and cider brandy produced at Pass Vale Farm to the ancient orchards surrounding the River Parrett, Kingsbury Episcopi represents the living, breathing heart of traditional Somerset cider country. Here is my journey through the orchards, history, and secret corners of this extraordinary South Somerset parish... Some places are special. It’s a fact of life, but one that is difficult to prove because often you cannot put your finger on exactly why a certain place might be exceptional. However, we all come across locations which somehow boast an extra pizzazz and I reckon there ought to be some kind of British listing of such places. James Crowden climbs One Tree Hill, Kingsbury Episcopi Kingsbury Episcopi would be high on the list. That’s what I was thinking as I stood on a small but remarkable West Country eminence one sunny morning this week looking down at a sea of thick mist which shrouded the Somerset Levels. One Tree Hill is a dome-shaped job crowned, as its name suggests, by a single tree… I’d been invited to the parish of Kingsbury Episcopi by James Crowden, who’ll be well known to readers as a poet, writer, and historian - and quite relevantly in this particular case, author of the best selling book Ciderland. James occasionally invites me on days out which never fail to be interesting... The sort of day most people would probably not be able to enjoy, unless they had some special “way in”. You need to know the right people, and when it comes to a great many corners of this region, James does seem to know everyone. Sheep in the Temperley orchard The theme of our Kingsbury Episcopi adventure was this: that the parish isn’t just a place where cider is made - it’s the heart of the cider world. An orchard-laden landscape full of history, from the ancient folksongs collected by the famous Cecil Sharp, to specific apple varieties (like Lambrook Pippin and Dabinett). Our visit was to be framed as a journey through the inhabitants of this cider-land, from the legendary Julian Temperley to local historians and publicans. Destination & Cider Heritage Overview Box Location: Kingsbury Episcopi, South Somerset (near Langport & Martock, Postcode: TA12 6AT). Key Landmarks: Burrow Hill (offering panoramic views across the Somerset Levels), St Martin's Church, The Rose & Crown pub ("Eli's" in nearby Stembridge). Famous Producers: Somerset Cider Brandy Company & Burrow Hill Cider (Pass Vale Farm). Landscape: Traditional tall-standard apple orchards, ham-stone architecture, and low-lying river meadows near the River Parrett. Special Event: Kingsbury Episcopi May Day Festival (annual community celebration). Orchard in Stembridge A Journey into Ciderland with James Crowden Good old James… He should be a public relations guru - he certainly sells a place or a subject well. As we stood there in the sunshine looking down at the much celebrated Burrow Hill Cider Farm beginning to appear out of the mists, he told me… “That’s where I did my cider apprenticeship - I worked there for 12 seasons making cider. I also did their sheep shearing; when you’re a sheep-shearer, you get quite thirsty, so the two things go together. “This really is the heart of cider land. A lot of the varieties people know came from within a few miles of here. First, we’ll go down and talk to Matilda Temperley (daughter of well-known Julian, who founded the Somerset Cider Brandy company). They’ve got a new product which is fantastic: cider brandy matured for five years in oak barrels actually made from Somerset oak.” Matilda Temperley Matilda and Julian Temperley: The Quest for Somerset Oak Matilda is one of four Temperley children and she has now taken over much of the running of the cider brandy company - and in the loft of an old French barn we talked as the view beyond began clearing to reveal hundreds of apple trees stretching into the distance. Matilda explained the complex journey of creating cider brandy aged in barrels made from Somerset trees. Most barrels in the industry are French oak because the UK lacks the 130-year-old managed plantations required for coopering. Matilda’s project involved a multi-year "treasure hunt" for fallen or storm-damaged local oaks. Burrow Hill Cider Farm “The trees need to be around 130 years old,” she told us. “Turning a tree into a barrel is a complicated process because you need to quarter-saw it - a specialist process. We managed to find an oak from Jamie Montgomery, of Montgomery’s Cheese in South Cadbury. That was our first tree, and we turned it into two oak barrels.” Five years later they’ve just started bottling cider brandy from one of the barrels. The result? “It’s totally not what we expected... there are lots of exotic notes. There’s lots of coconut - you almost get sort of exotic fruits in there.” We were joined by Julian, the pioneer who in the 1980s fought and won a major battle for the legal right to distil cider brandy. His Somerset Cider Brandy is now served in the most elite circles, including three-Michelin-starred restaurants in the UK. “Kingsbury is essentially the centre of cider apple growing in England,” said Julian. “We produce some of the best cider in this village, and that’s what we need to make the eau de vie (the basis for the cider brandy). And now we have royal approval - we had a letter from the King to say that he and the Queen enjoyed a bottle at Christmas... It was a bottle of 20-year-old cider brandy, which we now have on sale. “That gives you an idea of how this is a long-term thing - a multi-generational quest. It needs to be handed over to the next generation, and the next. I will bequeath the quest, the ambition, to the next generation.” We could fill these pages with our chat with Julian, but we need to move on - however the entire interview, along with the others from Kingsbury can be found on my podcast, Adventures in Journalism - free to listen to - available on any podcast platform. The DNA Revolution: Searching for 'Ghost' Apples Now we move down the hill to an old orchard at Stembridge, which is part of the parish. As the mists cleared we met Tim Gray of the Parrett Cider Company, and Liz Copas, the renowned pomologist. They told us about how Somerset cider is currently undergoing a “DNA revolution” - a high-tech detective hunt which sees leaf samples being sent to laboratories in a bid to identify “lost” apple varieties. One target is the Lambrook Pippin, an indigenous variety thought to be the parent of the famous Porter’s Perfection. While the variety is thriving in America and New Zealand, it has become a "ghost" in its home soil. “We send a few leaves to a laboratory and they do all the analysis,” explained Liz. “They compare what they find with trees in the National Fruit Collection. We’ve been searching for the legendary Lambrook Pippin for seven years. We keep finding other things in the meantime, but we’re still on that detective hunt.” “I want to continue making single variety ciders in order to tell the story of what they are,” added Tim. “We’re trying to put together the 'Kingsbury Pomona' (an historic term for a botanical book describing apples in detail) and we’ve got about 15 different varieties growing now from around the parish. We found three trees in this orchard we thought were a lost variety called Churchill. We’ve managed to match them... now we can get it registered as a local variety. At least then it’s in the collection and it’s preserved.” IF YOU ENJOY THIS POST TAKE A LOOK AT OUR OTHER CIDER ARTICLES HERE The Time Travellers: Mapping a Digital Parish All this tied in with a project being run by our next interviewees. Working in an office filled with artefacts and computer screens, Helen Aldhous and Adrian Willsare part of a volunteer team - digital archivists of this parish with a history that predates the Normans. The ‘Time Travellers’ aren't just looking at ancient Romanesque masonry, they are capturing the "invisible" history of the community. From the 19th-century engineering feats of George Parsons to photographic memories of local families, the group is building a digital encyclopaedia of village life. They’ve even created "Apple Blossom Trails" with QR codes, linking the physical beauty of the orchards to the stories of the people who planted them. “Episcopi means 'belonging to the Bishop’,” explained Helen. “Behind us here are the archaeological remains of a 9th or 10th-century Bishop’s Palace... it’s an unfolding story you never get to the bottom of.” Adrian added: “The River Parrett is part of our DNA. It’s the artery out into the Mediterranean... an intriguing piece of land on the boundary between the civilised and not-so-civilised worlds.” When asked about the cider story, Adrian became lyrical… “The smell of those orchards in blossom time… It’s like walking through a fairyland. When the wind blows, it’s like confetti pouring down. Part of the DNA of this parish is the smell of the 'withy-boilers' - it’s wonderful - the traditional boiling of willow for basket making.” Again, we only have room to scratch the surface - listen to the full interview on Adventures in Journalism. Talking to Adrian and Helen helped frame the village not just as a place to visit, but as a "multi-layered" landscape where the 14th century is still present in the surnames of the people you meet at the pub. Craftsman’s Cabin and Somerset Time Which is where we’ll be going next, but not before a lunch kindly provided by Decca Lang, a descendant of a farming family that has tilled local soil since the 1700s. Not long ago Decca returned from London to build Craftsman’s Cabin - a guest retreat located in a paddock just behind the main village - a lovely little holiday home that serves as a living gallery for local artisans and makers. “The view is west-facing, looking directly across Westmoor... in mid-summer the sun sets over the Burton Pynsent Monument,” said Decca as we sat in the cabin enjoying delicious homemade parsnip soup. “I wanted to shine a light on local makers and craftsmen. The fire-pit is made by Nicholas Ostroumoff at Muchelney Forge - the oak table was made by Bertie Clark from wood found on my family farm. These are brilliant craftsmen making things with hands, care, and love.” The Craftsman’s Cabin has been open for hire for the past couple of years, and Decca told us: “People come with plans to go here, there, and everywhere, but lots end up just staying put. It’s a step out of people’s frenetic lives... they log into 'Somerset time' when they’re here.” The Wyndham Arms: A Proper Cider House Last but not least was our visit to the wonderful Wyndham Arms, the pub in the middle of Kingsbury Episcopi, now run by a remarkable woman called Willow Reed. Willow is no stranger to the West Country cider scene; her former pub, The Plough in Taunton, was once Britain’s Cider Pub of the Year. After a stint living on an island in Belize, she returned to Somerset, feeling it was “written in the stars” that she should take over this historic inn. The way she puts it is that The Wyndham isn’t a “trendy gastro-pub”—it is a proper, old-fashioned cider house that celebrates the "errant sons of farmers" who become the region's best cider makers. “I like an old-fashioned, real, proper pub - there are very few left,” smiled the affable Willow as we chatted by the log fire. “We aren’t a food pub - in summer, if you're lucky, you can get a Scotch egg and a pork pie. But we have about 20 local ciders, all made in Somerset. “I like to support them. I do think the 'errant sons of farmers' become the cider makers. Those are the people I like—that's the crowd I want here. Call me a hippie, but I think there really is something special about the Somerset Levels. There is something in the air. Plus, my name is Willow Reed, and that is literally what is grown around here.” Fair enough. I liked Willow. I loved her pub. Indeed, I fell in love with the whole of that remarkable parish known, so mellifluously, as Kingsbury Episcopi. Frequently Asked Questions: Visiting Kingsbury Episcopi & Somerset Cider Country Where is Kingsbury Episcopi and how do you get there? Kingsbury Episcopi is located in South Somerset, approximately 2 miles south-west of Langport and 8 miles west of Yeovil. It is easily reached via the A303 or A378, nestled between the Somerset Levels and the River Parrett. What is Burrow Hill Cider famous for? Burrow Hill, situated in the parish of Kingsbury Episcopi, is home to the Somerset Cider Brandy Company and Burrow Hill Cider. Operating at Pass Vale Farm for over 150 years, it was granted the UK's first commercial cider distilling licence in 300 years and is famous for its traditional vintage ciders and oak-aged cider brandies. Can you visit orchards and taste cider in Kingsbury Episcopi? Yes, visitors to Burrow Hill can walk among the 160 acres of traditional cider apple orchards, explore the press house lined with copper stills and oak vats, and sample farm-pressed ciders and cider brandies at the cider shop. Are there good walks around Kingsbury Episcopi? Yes, the parish offers gentle, scenic walks through orchard lanes and along the River Parrett trail. Walking to the top of Burrow Hill (topped by its distinctive single sycamore tree) rewards walkers with 360-degree views across the Somerset Levels towards Glastonbury Tor. "Love West Country drinks and heritage? Read my full feature on traditional cider and perry making in the West Country, or explore my complete Somerset travel and walking archive."

There is a quiet, ethereal magic to the tidal creeks and estuaries of Devon and Cornwall once autumn arrives and the summer boating crowds head home. Steep oak woods cast auburn reflections across still, flooded valleys, while saltmarshes and sandbars echo with the calls of overwintering waders. Of all the broadcast and newspaper assignments I worked on during my years as a staff journalist, few were quite as memorable as Up The Creek—a joint venture with ITV Westcountry where we set out to explore these hidden regional waterways. Armed with a camera crew and a borrowed 12-foot Bristol Channel Flatner from the Watchet Boat Museum, we rowed into the secluded nooks and crannies of our region's most famous estuaries. Here is a look back at how that autumn journey unfolded—from the treacherous mouth of the Torridge to the ancient arches of Wadebridge and beyond... One of the best series I ever worked on during my years as a staff journalist was a joint endeavour we did with ITV Westcountry entitled Up The Creek. We did exactly what the name suggests. We went around the creeks and estuaries of the South West region exploring tidal waterways. We started writing rowing and filming in autumn when most boating tourists had gone home and the nooks and crannies of the creeks were left in the complete and utter peace which seems to be their main lot in life. Back then I wrote: “Many creeks are tree-lined so we can look forward to fantastic autumnal displays of colour being reflected in the still waters of the protected inlets and flooded river valleys. Estuaries & Waterways Overview Box Series Title: Up The Creek (Joint Feature Series with ITV Westcountry) Vessel Used: John Short (a 12-foot traditional Bristol Channel Flatner on loan from Watchet Boat Museum). Featured Waterways: River Torridge & Taw Estuary (North Devon), River Camel at Wadebridge, Helford River, River Fal, River Fowey, River Yealm, River Dart, and River Exe. Key Historical Note: Inspecting the 17 arches of Wadebridge's ancient bridge from the water reveals how the structure was doubled in width in 1963. Having said that, we start in one of the least sylvan estuaries up in the north of the region. Indeed the final reaches of the Torridge are escorted north by the treeless flatlands of Bideford Bay. And by the time it reaches its North Devon sister the Taw to form one giant gulf, things can get pretty lumpy and bumpy out there in the wave torn shallows of the sand bar called Sprat Ridge.” Certainly, the mouth of the Torridge in a gale was no place for the Bristol Channel flatner I borrowed from Watchet Boat Museum. The 12-foot John Short was exactly the right sort of craft for the inner parts of the estuaries, but it would have been madness to row out over weirdly named Zulu Sands the other day when we began filming for this series. Next we went to Wadebridge in Cornwall with its long bridge. Passing under the arches in a small boat you could see how it’s not one bridge, but two. Even a cursory inspection shows how the downstream spans are a lot older than the adjacent upstream arches. The old structure was widened in 1963. There used to be 17 arches but the widening work meant four had to be built over, although the one on the Egloshayle side was used as a cellar. After that we went to the Helford Passage, the Fal, the Fowey, the Yealm, the Dart and the Exe. If people are interested I’ll put up some more detailed notes of these wonderful voyages. I would dearly love to do them all again. Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ Section) Paste this section at the bottom of your post to help capture search traffic interested in West Country boating, kayaking, and coastal history: Frequently Asked Questions: Exploring West Country Estuaries What is a Bristol Channel Flatner? A Bristol Channel Flatner is a traditional, flat-bottomed wooden double-ended boat historically built along the Somerset coast (particularly around Watchet and Bridgwater) for fishing, mud-slubbing, and navigating shallow, intertidal waters. Which estuaries feature in the Up The Creek series? The series covers major tidal waterways across Devon and Cornwall, including the Torridge and Taw in North Devon, the Camel at Wadebridge, and South Coast estuaries including the Helford, Fal, Fowey, Yealm, Dart, and Exe. Why is autumn considered a great time to explore West Country creeks? By autumn, seasonal pleasure craft traffic drops significantly, leaving the sheltered tidal creeks in peace. The changing autumn foliage reflects off the calm water, and migrating birdlife arrives in huge numbers across the mudflats and saltmarshes. "Love West Country maritime history and coastal journalism? Explore my full collection of West Country features and coastal walks."

Deep in the ancient rainforests of Malaysian Borneo, where cicadas provide a deafening backdrop and Mount Santubong towers over the South China Sea, occurs one of the world's most extraordinary cultural gatherings. The Rainforest World Music Festival in Sarawak is no ordinary event: it is a three-day celebration where world-class musicians, indigenous tribal elders, and global travelers meet beneath a jungle canopy to dance, drum, and celebrate. Set within the living museum of the Sarawak Cultural Village near Kuching, daytime workshops held inside traditional Dayak longhouses give way to electrifying evening mainstage performances. From the hypnotic strum of the indigenous Sape (the boat-shaped lute of the Orang Ulu) to thunderous West African drumming, this is music in its purest, wild form—Borneo’s very own brand of jungle rock 'n' roll. Here is my photo journey through the sounds, colours, and raw energy of Sarawak's famous festival... It was the best music event I’ve ever been to. So, given that it is too hot to sit in my little garret writing any more today (I’ve already done my 900 word newspaper column for tomorrow’s paper and edited Bob Bell’s piece next door - which didn’t actually need much editing) - I have put together a short video and am bunging up some photos I took of the occasion… Fast Facts & Festival Travel Guide Box Adding a practical info block instantly helps search engines understand the destination and gives real value to prospective travelers: Location: Sarawak Cultural Village, Damai Beach, Santubong Peninsula (approx. 45 minutes north of Kuching, Sarawak, Malaysian Borneo). Venue: A 17-acre living museum featuring authentic replicas of traditional Sarawak ethnic dwellings, including Iban, Bidayuh, and Melanau longhouses. Key Highlight: Daily afternoon interactive music and dance workshops in tribal longhouses followed by night concerts on open-air jungle stages. Featured Instrument: The Sape—a traditional boat-shaped lute carved from a single block of wood, native to the Orang Ulu people of Sarawak. Best Time to Visit: June / July (during the annual festival dates). Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ Section) Frequently Asked Questions: Sarawak Rainforest World Music Festival Where is the Rainforest World Music Festival held? The festival is held annually at the Sarawak Cultural Village at Damai Beach, located at the base of Mount Santubong, approximately 35 km north of Kuching, the capital of Sarawak in Malaysian Borneo. What makes the Rainforest World Music Festival unique? Unlike conventional music festivals, it takes place inside a living rainforest museum. Visitors can participate in hands-on workshops and jam sessions inside authentic indigenous longhouses during the day before attending mainstage evening performances under the stars. How do you get to the festival from Kuching? Official shuttle buses and minivans run continuously between central Kuching hotels and the festival site at Damai Beach throughout the event, taking around 45 to 50 minutes each way. What else is there to do near the festival site in Sarawak? Visitors can explore Bako National Park (famous for wild proboscis monkeys), visit the Semenggoh Wildlife Centre to see orangutans, go dolphin watching along the Salak River, or sample famous Sarawak street food in Kuching. "Planning an Asian adventure? Check out my full archive of South East Asia travel features and guides."

Lewesdon Hill , William Crowe and William Wordsworth by James Crowden Everybody knows about William Wordsworth, his sister Dorothy and the year they spent with Sam Coleridge in Nether Stowey and Alfoxden, but relatively little is known about the Wordsworth's time in West Dorset immediately prior to this. They arrived in September 1795 and lived in Racedown Lodge until July 1797. Coleridge walked the 44 miles to their house, having preached a sermon in Bridgwater Unitarian, and spent a fortnight there. He then persuaded them to join him in West Somerset. The rest is history. But one hill in particular caught their attention. It was only a few miles away. Today in West Dorset, as in West Somerset, the clock has been wound back about 100 years. Motor cars are increasingly scarce. Horses and bicycles are rampant. Lockdown, which sounds a bit like a new type of seriously strong glue, means that we are confined to barracks and many people do far more local walking that they ever did before. Their gardens, if they are lucky enough to have one, have become small paradises. Which is not surprising as the word 'paradise' is derived from the old Persian word pairi-daêza meaning walled enclosure, which later referred to ornate pleasure gardens. Everyone must have their own paradise. There is even a paradise apple, which is a very old apple indeed - first recorded in the Hotel St Pol in Paris in 1398. It came from the Caucasus and has been found growing in the wild in Armenia. It was one of the first modern apple rootstocks, released in 1917 and in France was called 'Jaune de Metz'. Being England it now has the far less poetic name of M9 from East Malling Research station in Kent. Many of you may have M9 rootstock for your apple trees without knowing it. But what has this got to do with West Dorset or West Somerset? The analogy is simply that you may have wondrous things in your garden or on your doorstep which you may have taken for granted all these years, but which are, upon further inspection, far more interesting and historically important than you realise. Like the Dorset knob from Morecombelake. Very good with Blue Vinney and a glass of cider. But it is two other much larger 'knobs', further inland that really interest me, Lewesdon Hill and Pilsdon Pen 'known to ancient mariners as the 'Cow and Calf' being eminent sea marks to those whose sail upon the coast.' Sea marks are important navigational aids, especially to smugglers…. on moonlit nights. Take Lewesdon Hill, Mount Parnassus of West Dorset. Within easy walking distance if you live in Stoke Abbot or Broadwindsor and well worth the effort of climbing on a fine day. Lewesdon, unlike its next door neighbour, Pilsdon Pen, has tall beech trees upon its slopes, which at this time of year burst into a garish, almost luminescent, metallic green leaf which contrasts beautifully with the sea of blue bells. Pilsdon Pen is the most prominent of the two hills, with a prow that juts out like an old battleship and is reckoned to be 909ft high. For many years it was assumed that Pilsdon was higher than Lewesdon. But recent more sophisticated surveys say that Lewesdon is six feet higher - which in real terms is a fathom. Many people will have passed Lewesdon Hill on the road between Broadwindsor and Bridport, without giving it a second thought. But Lewesdon Hill has a fascinating story to tell, which like its true height, has been hidden under a bushel for many years. This story starts in the 1780s, when car parking was not such a problem as it is today. William Crowe, rector of Stoke Abbot, wrote a long poem about walking up Lewesdon Hill on a May morning. His daily exercise. It was published anonymously in 1788 by the Clarendon Press Oxford and was immediately reprinted with his name tally 'WILLIAM CROWE LLB of New College and Public Orator of the University.' It was a sensation and went into several more editions. William Crowe was an unusual academic. His father was a carpenter who worked in Winchester. As a boy William Crowe was talent spotted and received an education at Winchester College and was then admitted to New College, Oxford and gained a degree in Law. A very bright lad… He became a tutor, then a fellow of New College and Public Orator for the University, a very distinguished position. He held it for many years and delivered speeches in the Sheldonian in Greek and Latin at University functions like degree ceremonies or appear in robes if distinguished visitors turned up. But for that May Day walk up Lewesdon Hill William Crowe was anything but formal. He was simply walking up the hill with his eyes and ears open, enjoying the beauties of a spring day. He was rector for four years and the ambience of the West Dorset landscape inspired him no end. The poetry was free from the straightjacket of iambic pentameters and the more traditional 18th century classical poetry in the 'Augustan' mode. Well known for its wit, urbanity, revering such classical poets as Virgil and Horace, the Augustan period ended with the death of Alexander Pope in 1744. But nothing much had replaced it, till the Cambridge professor Thomas Gray wrote Elegy Written in a Country Churchyardin 1751about Stoke Poges.This poem broke new ground as all graves do. It became a meditation on death, dying and remembrance. It set the scene for rural poetry and placed poetry back in the shires, in the present. Well away from the London orbit. Rustic mode back in fashion. Then there was Thomas Chatterton the young Bristol poet who committed suicide by taking arsenic in 1770. The same year William Wordsworth was born. Romantic poets were still in wings or even the cradle. There was a slight poetic vacuum that had to be filled. What next? Then in 1788, the same year that Lord Byron was born, enter William Crowe, the unsung hero of West Dorset who unwittingly sparked a small revolution in poetic terms. His mode of address was very personal, almost casual as if he was having a conversation with a close friend or even himself. He had broken out of Gray's churchyard and strolled up the hill.. He celebrated life not death in blank verse. It was quite literally a breath of fresh air. Energy replaced Elegy. Lewesdon Hill was a stream of conscious, internal remembrances, like an introspective filmscript. With no obvious rhyme or verse or external setting. But plenty of reason and acute observation of nature and humankind. As if the landscape gave it form and structure. A meditation on the secretive Marshwood Vale laid our below. But there is a Wordsworth connection and this is where it gets really interesting. Lewesdon Hill was published when William Wordsworth was only eighteen and a student at Cambridge. His first long poem which he had been working on for a number of years was called an 'Evening Walk' about the Lake District was published in 1793 and addressed to a young Lady, in all probability his sister, Dorothy. It is a walk set in the Lake District just like Lewesdon Hill with many natural observations and inner freedoms that became the hall mark of his later verse, including Tintern Abbey and The Prelude. By chance through a friend in Bristol, Azariah Pinney, William and Dorothy both ended up living beneath Pilsdon Pen at Racedown Lodge owned by the Pinney family. Not a stone's throw away from Lewesdon Hill. Aza sent Wordsworth a copy of Lewesdon Hill in November 1795 and Coleridge had borrowed a copy in March of that same year from Bristol Library. So they had plenty to talk about… William had been in Revolutionary France and had fathered a child there with Annette Vallon, his French mistress. But that was all hushed up. Sadly there is no journal ( that exists) but they had two important guests at Racedown. Dorothy's old friend Mary Hutchinson who was later to marry William and the poet Samuel Taylor Coleridge, who was rather smitten with Dorothy and her 'gypsy tan'…William wrote The Borderers here and seriously started writing poetry again, inspired by his sister. The fuse had been lit. “She gave my eyes, she gave me ears: humble cares and delicate fears Maintained a saving intercourse With my true self, preserved me still. A poet." A fine tribute from William to Dorothy that I arranged to be carved on a sturdy but elegant wooden gate on the western side of Pilsdon Pen made and carved by Karen Hansen of Evershot. In the words of the Dorset poet Catherine Simmonds 'The landscape of West Dorset, the rural poverty, the words of William Crowe as well as the encouragement of his sister Dorothy provided a vital catalyst to William’s creativity.' As if Wordsworth had used Lewesdon Hill as some kind of template and went much deeper with his introspection. It was a guide, a beacon, a leading mark… To quote William Crowe: "Above the noise and stir of yonder fields Uplifted, on this height I feel the mind Expand itself in wider liberty. The distant sounds break gently on my sense soothing to meditation…" That is pure William Crowe not William Wordsworth.. And Crowe continues on that introspective vein: " so methinks Even so, sequestered from the noisy world Could I wear out this transitory being In peaceful contemplation and calm ease." That notion and honesty and inner meditation is a stepping stone, one of many within the poem, that must have struck a chord with young Wordsworth. It is a real shame that Crowe does not get more recognition for his magnificent poem and its inner workings which inspired the Romantic movement. Someone should film it… William and Dorothy stayed at Racedown for nearly two years: (September 1795 - July 1797).Far longer than they ever did in Alfoxton House in West Somerset which was their next port of call, to be close to Coleridge in Nether Stowey. William was disillusioned with the French Revolution which had turned very sour, but they were all inspired with creating a revolution in words and poetry. A new society with greater freedom of thought. Even walking was seen as a revolutionary activity. From Racedown they used to walk for about two hours a day and as Dorothy says: "We have hills which, seen from a distance almost take the character of mountains, some cultivated nearly to their summits, others in their wild state covered with furze and broom. These delight me the most as they remind me of our native wilds." Her 'native wilds' being the Lake District.. So the poem Lewesdon Hill was well known to Wordsworth and Coleridge. Both poets derived something from it, not just from its lyrical passages, which are quite delightful, but also from its political, libertarian, even pro-republican sentiments. As Professor Jonathan Wordsworth points out in his 1989 introduction to the poem, Lewesdon Hill was in Wordsworth's library and is mentioned in his 1820 Postcript to the River Duddon sonnets. Some critics say it also leads into the Tintern Abbey and Wye Valley poems of 1798. But there is an even closer connection, not just in style, but in content. As I read Lewesdon Hill one phrase jumps out: 'tufted orchards'. Line 10. Just imagine you are William Crowe, aged only forty three and still sprightly, climbing the hill on May Morning with a poetic air spread all around you, taking in the magnificent views. "Up to thy summit, Lewesdon to the brow Of yon proud rising, where the lonely thorn Bends from the rude South East with top cut sheer By his keen breath, along the narrow track By which the scanty-pastured sheep ascend Up to thy furze clad summit, let me climb: My morning exercise; and thence look round Upon the variegated scene, of hills And woods and fruitful vales, and villages Half-hid in tufted orchards, and the sea Boundless, and studded thick with many a sail." That is only the first page, there are many, many more, and William Crowe is looking down on the Marshwood Vale where small farms are given over to dairy farming, cheesemaking, sheep and cidermaking. Has anything changed in 200 years? Much more follows including not only a very accurate description of the skills needed to be a smuggler but the shipwreck of the Halsewell, an East India man wrecked off Purbeck in January 1786 with great loss of life. Here poetry mirrors real life. Wordsworth must have had that very scene in his mind as he learnt of the death of his brother, John Wordsworth, the captain of the Earl of Abergavenny, a large East Indiaman that sank in a storm in Weymouth Harbour in February 1805. What really interests me and gives a clue to the use of Lewesdon Hill as an inspiration is that in line 10 the phrase 'tufted orchards' which crops up as 'orchard-tufts' in Wordsworth's famous poem 'Lines composed a few miles above Tintern Abbey' describing the Wye valley near Brockweir. The phrase has been reversed in line 11. A code word, a clue, an enigma, a tribute: even hints of cider to come. "Here, under this dark sycamore, and view These plots of cottage-ground, these orchard-tufts, Which at this season, with their unripe fruits, Are clad in one green hue, and lose themselves 'Mid groves and copses." It could just as easily have been William Crowe describing West Dorset. My suspicion is that this was young William's way of acknowledging his debt to William Crowe. It just so happens that a friend of mine has a cider farm above Brockweir above the Wye and there are sycamores and ruined cottages. Cider and poetry always seem to go together. Not much cider in the lake District however… The view from the summit of Lewesdon Hill - a panoramic shot: " From this proud eminence on all sides round The unbroken prospect opens to my view, On all sides large; save only where the head Of Pillesdon rises, Pillesdon's lofty Pen: So called (still rendering to his ancient name Observance due) that rival height south-west, Which, like a rampire, bounds the vale beneath. There woods, there blooming orchards, there are seen Herds ranging, or at rest beneath the shade Of some wide-branching oak; there goodly fields Of corn, and verdant pasture, whence the kine, Returning with their milky treasure home, Store the rich dairy: such fair plenty fills The pleasant vale of Marshwood, pleasant now, Since that the spring hat): decked anew the meads With flowery vesture, and the warmer sun Their foggy moistness drained … This fertile vale, in length from Lewesdon's base Extended to the sea, and watered well By many a rill; but chief with thy clear stream, Thou nameless Rivulet, who, from the side Of Lewesdon softly welling forth, dost trip Adown the valley, wandering sportively." Mount Parnassus indeed and Paradise all in one hit. Why live elsewhere? West Dorset cider is also very good. So there is far more to Lewesdon Hill than at first sight. William and Dorothy really enjoyed themselves in West Dorset. A quiet antidote to the French Revolution which had greatly disturbed William's mind. William found rest and started to write poetry again. Dorothy did a lot gardening, mending of clothes and even arranged a bride for William: her good friend Mary Hutchinson. Then Coleridge came to stay. I am quite sure they went up Lewesdon Hill and read the poem on its summit which only a mile or two from Racedown. They frequently walked to Crewkerne to get their mail, which was much, much further. Or Lyme Regis to order coal. On one trip to the Cobb, William, ever forgetful, left his horse tied to a lamp post. Just by the small but wonderful narrow bookshop, which was the old coal yard. When he got back to Racedown Dorothy said to him 'EE William.. Where's the 'oss? and 'Where's the coal?' That's poetry for you. If you cannot make the walk yourself up Lewesdon Hill this year to see the bluebells and beech trees, you can always purchase a facsimile of the original 1788 copy of Lewesdon Hill with a long introduction all about the life of William Crowe. And so, in these troubled times, you can take the virtual journey in words and images, to the summit of Lewesdon Hill Lewesdon Hill can be ordered through my website: only £5 + p&p . Also see Dorset Footsteps - Wessex Ridgeway Poems which includes several poems about Lewesdon and Pilsdon Pen as well as William and Dorothy Wordsworth and their stay at Racedown Lodge. Also £5 each + p&p See: www.james-crowden.co.uk