Exploring the Dundon and Compton Dundon Walks in Somerset What Can You Do When the Weather’s Hit and Miss? ☁️☔ Read a book, would be a sensible answer… But for most country-lovers, the urge to get outdoors is hard to resist – even when the weather isn’t cooperating. So, you have to grab the chance while you can! And that is exactly what I did one day recently while driving through central Somerset with a friend. The sun peeked out, the skies looked promising, and we decided to take advantage with a walk in a place my pal hadn’t yet visited. I had explored the twin villages of Dundon and Compton Dundon a few years back but felt an urge to revisit. Why? Because this part of Somerset is nothing short of remarkable. A Step Back in Time 🗒️ Thousands of years ago, the Dundons might have been seaside resorts for Neanderthals, but today they sit far from anything resembling saltwater. Just south of Glastonbury, you can see on the map how the Somerset Levels stretch inland, only to be halted by a striking arc of hills around these two communities. It’s almost as though a massive green ocean swept south and east, only to be trapped by a natural boundary of wooded cliffs. This bay-like formation surrounds a section of the Levels called Somerton Moor, creating a picturesque landscape. Extensive beech hangars crown the steep ridge, and below, the villages and farmsteads cluster close to the land, while the flat polders of the Levels are sparsely dotted with buildings. Two Walks in Dundon and Compton Dundon 🚶‍♀️ We decided to tackle two walks in this fascinating area, starting with the hills that separate Dundon and Compton Dundon, before heading upwards to explore the marvellous Polden Way. If you're looking for more ideas, I've collected some of my favourite walks in my guide to the best Somerset walks ☘️ Dundon Walk 1: Lollover Hill and Dundon Beacon Driving along the B3151 from Street towards Somerton, we descended from the ridge, reaching the villages and taking a right to enter Dundon. Opposite the village cricket pitch, a lane climbs the shoulder separating the two “islands,” and we parked near the church. From here, a footpath leads up in a westerly direction to magnificent Lollover Hill. Though just under 300 feet, Lollover’s steep rise from the flat Levels gives it a commanding presence. Once at the summit, you’re rewarded with expansive views over the green ocean of the Levels stretching all the way to the distant Quantock Hills. Legend has it that Lollover’s name derives from "Look Over," a reference to the locals climbing the hill to watch the 1685 Battle of Sedgemoor, which took place about eight miles away. The hilltop is managed as an English Heritage nature reserve, preserving traditional hillside farming techniques and nurturing wild orchids. After taking in the views, we followed the footpath down to Bartletts Farm, before veering left and making our way back to the village. Our next stop was Dundon Beacon, part of a nature reserve managed by the Somerset Wildlife Trust. A short climb led us up to this fascinating site, which features a mix of calcareous grassland, ancient oak woodland, and archaeological remains, including an Iron Age fort and a Bronze Age barrow. ☘️ Dundon Walk 2: Windmill Hill, Admiral Hood Monument, and the Polden Way For our second walk, we headed from Compton Dundon to Windmill Hill and the Admiral Hood Monument, before joining the Polden Way. The Polden Hills are an often overlooked ridge, stretching from Bridgwater to Somerton. Though not as famous as other areas of Somerset, they are incredibly scenic and well worth exploring. The Polden Way links areas of public access between Walton and Hurcot, opening up previously inaccessible parts of the ridge. Starting at Windmill Hill, we admired some of the finest viewpoints in Somerset before following the path across Hatch Hill to Combe Wood, a haven for the large blue butterfly. From there, we continued along to King’s Wood, Great Breach Wood, and eventually reached Gilling Down, with breathtaking views towards Somerton. The Polden Way ends at Hurcot Hill, above the main railway line connecting Paddington to Penzance. A Perfect Somerset Day ☔️☀️ Though our time was limited, and rain threatened to return, we managed to make the most of this beautiful area, squeezing in not one but two memorable walks. Now, each time I travel to London by train, I’ll glance out the window and recognize that steep escarpment – a reminder of a very special part of Somerset that we were lucky enough to explore.

A classic view looking north from the ridge of the Quantock Hills There is nowhere in Britain quite like the Quantock Hills. Rising abruptly from the Somerset Levels and the Vale of Taunton Deane before tumbling straight into the Bristol Channel, England’s very first designated Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (now a National Landscape) packs an extraordinary variety of terrain into a compact, ridge-backed peninsula. Within an afternoon’s stroll, you can journey from deep, fern-hung sessile oak combes echoing with birdsong to wind-scoured heather commons where wild red deer roam and the views stretch across the water to the Welsh coast and west towards the high ramparts of Exmoor. Here are six of the very best circular hikes across the Quantocks and its fascinating coast—ranging from lofty ridge scrambles and romantic literary trails to haunted combes and fossil-strewn shorelines. View looking west from the Quantock ridge 1. Wills Neck & The High Ridge: The Quantock Summit The steep descent down from the lofty summit of Wills Neck to the hamlet of Triscombe is the nearest West Country walking gets to flying. You feel that at any moment you could soar away across the vast West Somerset vale that lies far below. On the way down you can peer over at distant Dartmoor, take a discerning peek at the Blackdowns, examine Exmoor, and eyeball the Brendons. See the full Will's Neck walk here The trig point at Will's Neck Of course, being able to enjoy all this altitudinous sightseeing does come at a cost. As is the case with most high points, the price of the panorama is the climb up. The Route The Approach: Park in the lovely hamlet of Triscombe, tucked under the central massif of the Quantock ridge. Find the footpath leading off the small lane that runs along the hills towards Crowcombe. The Flank Path: The path climbs the flank of the hill a little way to run parallel to the lane in a north-westerly direction between the lower woods and the high fields—an ideal spot for catching a glimpse of wild red deer. The Climb: After about 1¼ miles, pass Little Quantock Farm and enter Little Quantock Combe. Here the hard work begins: the half-mile haul straight up to the top of the ridge is steep, to say the least. The Ancient Drovers' Road: Once on the ridge, enjoy the wide vistas across the Somerset Levels (on a clear day you can see the Severn bridges). Head south-east along the unmade ancient drovers' track—known in a 13th-century document as Alferode—past Great Hill and the 2.5-foot-high monolith at Triscombe Stone. The Summit & Descent: Just past the stone, take the path ascending gently uphill to the right to reach Wills Neck (1,260 ft / 384 m), named after the Ridge of the Wealas. After admiring the cairns, turn west for the vertigo-inducing, steep plunge back down through the woods into Triscombe. The track down from Will's Neck Fact File Start/Parking: Triscombe hamlet (approx. 7 miles north-west of Taunton). Distance: 4 miles (6.4 km). Difficulty: Moderate to strenuous (very steep ascent up the combe and a steep descent). OS Map: OS Explorer 140 (Quantock Hills & Bridgwater). Nearest Pub: The Blue Ball Inn, Triscombe. A thatched 17th-century country inn sitting at the foot of the hill, serving local ales and pub classics. View from Will's Neck on a winter's day 2. Dowsborough & Robin Upright's Hill: The Cuckoo Dome Dowsborough is the lonely, wooded outcrop on the eastern flank of the Quantocks that stands apart from the rest of the bald, heath-capped hills along the ridge. Smothered in scrub oak woodland, this great green dome looks like a stately pleasure dome straight out of Samuel Taylor Coleridge’s imagination. See walks near Dowsborough and other Quantock locations here Dowsborough, a wooded hill on the Quantocks This is also prime territory for listening to—and occasionally spotting—elusive cuckoos flitting like small hawks over the scrub and open heath. The Route Start on the Ridge: Start at Crowcombe Park Gate (Grid Ref: ST 155 378). Traipse north across the flanks of Black Hill to pass Wilmot’s Pool—a peaty hilltop pool where deer slots in the black mud reveal where red deer come down to drink at night. Down into the Combe: Continue north with Dowsborough looming ahead. The path descends steeply into Lady’s Combe, which separates Dowsborough from the main ridge. Ascending Dowsborough: Cross the bottom of Lady’s Combe and take the track heading due north around the western contours of the hill, climbing up through the oak woods until the trees thin on the sea-facing side to reveal aerial panoramas of Steep Holm and Flat Holm. The Iron Age Ramparts: Plough directly across the huge prehistoric earthwork crowning the summit—an irregularly oval univallate contour hill-fort enclosing seven acres. Robin Upright's Hill: Head south-east across to Robin Upright's Hill. From here, swing west across the high heath avoiding the road, crossing back over Black Hill to return to Crowcombe Park Gate. Wooded path climbing Dowsborough Fact File Start/Parking: Crowcombe Park Gate car park (ST 155 378). Distance: 3.5 miles (5.6 km). Difficulty: Easy to moderate. OS Map: OS Explorer 140. Nearest Pub: The Carew Arms, Crowcombe (open daily for food and local ales at the foot of the hill). A path rounding Dowsborough in rainy weather 3. Kilve Pill to Lilstock: The Burning Beach & Bombing Range Out on the lonely claylands that lie under the northern Quantocks, the coastline along the Bristol Channel reveals one of the most remarkable geological shorelines in Britain. Here, massive Blue Lias limestone pavements stretch out into the sea, laden with Jurassic fossils. The rock is so rich in shale oil that it once inspired an ill-fated 1920s distillation plant—and you can literally watch the beach rock catch fire if you place a barbecue directly upon the oil-bearing strata. Check out the full Kilve-Lilstock hike here The beach at Kilve, on the Quantock coast The Route The Shoreline: From the centre of Kilve on the A39, head down Sea Lane past the 14th-century Chantry ruins to the car park at Kilve Pill. Take a moment to explore the rock pavements and the red-brick oil retort built in the early 1900s. East Along the Cliffs: Mount the low cliffs east of the pill and follow the coastal path eastward. The cliff drop increases as you walk towards the white-painted Range Quadrant Hut—used by observers monitoring the offshore military bombing range. Haunted Lilstock: Continue along the cliff tops with views across to the nuclear reactors of Hinkley Point on one side and the Brecon Beacons across the channel on the other. Arrive at Lilstock, a wonderfully lonely, atmospheric spot that once boasted a bustling harbour and pier. The Return: Either retrace your steps along the clifftops to enjoy uninterrupted western views towards Minehead and Blue Anchor Bay, or make an inland loop through the hamlet of Lilstock, up past Kilton and Lower Hill Farm, and back down into the Kilve valley. Blue lias pavements at Kilve beach Fact File Start/Parking: Kilve Beach car park (ST 145 444). Distance: 3.5 miles (out and back) or 5 miles (inland loop via Kilton). Difficulty: Easy, level walking. OS Map: OS Explorer 140. Fossil Rules: Hammering bedrock cliffs is forbidden (SSSI protection), but searching among loose beach stones easily reveals ammonites and Gryphaea. Nearest Pub & Tea Room: The Hood Arms, Kilve (on the A39) for food and local cider; The Chantry Tea Gardens near the beach for afternoon tea. The beach at Lilstock 4. Dead Woman’s Ditch, Quantock Combe & Seven Wells Wood This hike explores the deep, moody combes of the central Quantocks and visits the scene of one of Somerset’s most famous historical crimes: the 1789 murder of Jane Walford by her husband Johnny, a local charcoal burner who was later hanged in chains at Walford’s Oak. See walks around Dead Woman's Ditch and hikes inspired by The Last Broomsquire here Dead Woman's Ditch on the Quantocks The Route The Herepath: Park at Crowcombe Park Gate and join the ancient ridgeway (Herepath) heading south through magnificent colonnades of beech trees. Down to Quantock Farm: Turn left off the ridge onto the footpath descending across fields towards Quantock Farm. Follow the right-of-way around the farm buildings, emerging onto the tarmac drive. Turn right and, after 300 yards, take the steep footpath on your left heading down into the woods. Quantock Combe: Pass the mysterious spring known as St David's Well and follow the path down through Quantock Combe into the deep, conifer-clad valley basin often nicknamed "Little Canada". Seven Wells Wood: Haul up the slopes of Seven Wells Wood via the steep track ascending across from the car park. The conifer plantations gradually give way to native scrub oak and ancient woodland. Dead Woman's Ditch: Arrive at the ancient earthwork ditch that bears the grim name of Jenny Walford's murder site. Cross the road and head back to Crowcombe Park Gate via Wilmot's Pool, skimming past the legendary "Devil's Galloping Path". The Herepath near Crowcombe Park Gate Fact File Start/Parking: Crowcombe Park Gate car park (ST 155 378). Distance: 5 miles (8 km). Difficulty: Moderate (one long descent and a steep climb out of the combe). OS Map: OS Explorer 140. Nearest Pub: The Carew Arms, Crowcombe or The Bicknoller Inn, Bicknoller (both active, open country inns serving food and local drinks). Looking east from Crowcombe Park Gate 5. Staple Plain, Beacon Hill & Bicknoller Combe Staple Plain sits high above the village of St Audries, offering an immediate gateway into the northern Quantock wild without an exhausting initial climb. It is a wonderland of open heath, whortleberry banks, and sweeping panoramic views across West Somerset towards Exmoor and the sea. Check out one of our Bicknoller Quantock hikes here Path near Bicknoller Combe The Route The Great Road: From the Staple Plain car park, take the ancient track known as The Great Road across the eastern flanks of Beacon Hill (310 m). The track provides easy walking while the entire vale of West Somerset and the Bristol Channel open out behind your shoulder. The Ridge to Thorncombe: Join the main ridge track heading south past Bicknoller Post to Thorncombe Barrow. Plunge to Bicknoller: At Thorncombe Barrow, take the plunging path down through Long Combe to Quantock Moor Farm. Follow Trendle Lane into the picturesque thatched village of Bicknoller with its fine sandstone church. Moor Fringe to Weacombe: Beat a retreat from the village lanes up to the moor gate at Bicknoller Combe. Follow the lower contour footpath running north along the boundary between the wild moor and the lower fields towards Weacombe. (Tip: tuck your trousers into your socks through the bracken to ward off deer ticks). Weacombe Ascent: Turn into the deep red-sandstone cleft of Weacombe. Take the zig-zag path up the steep slanting moor or follow the plantation tracks through Staple Plantation back up to the car park. Path above Staple Plain Fact File Start/Parking: Staple Plain car park, above West Quantoxhead (ST 116 410). Distance: 4 miles (6.4 km). Difficulty: Easy to moderate (one steep descent down Long Combe and an ascent out of Weacombe). OS Map: OS Explorer 140. Nearest Pub: The Bicknoller Inn, Bicknoller (in the village) or The Windmill Inn, West Quantoxhead (on the A39). Weacombe to one side of Staple Plain, 6. The Poets' Crossing: Holford, Crowcombe & Holford Combe In 1797–98, William and Dorothy Wordsworth were living at Alfoxton House near Holford, while Samuel Taylor Coleridge walked over daily from his cottage in Nether Stowey. This classic crossing takes you across the entire breadth of the Quantock range from east to west and back again, passing through the deep, mossy ravines that inspired The Rime of the Ancient Mariner and Kubla Khan. See the full walk here A stream in Holford Combe The Route Entering Hodder's Combe: Start at Holford village green and car park. Take the path into Hodder’s Combe, tracing the bubbling, rocky stream under ancient sessile oaks—the "roaring dell" of Coleridge’s verse. Up to the Spine: Follow the combe up to where the woodland gives way to open heath, mounting the main ridge track. Turn south along the spine with views stretching out over the sea towards Minehead until you reach Crowcombe Park Gate. Drop to Crowcombe: Just before the road, take the sharp right footpath descending around the northern perimeter of Crowcombe Park, entering the historic estate village near Grime’s Farm. Village & Carew Arms: Walk into the village for a well-earned lunch at The Carew Arms. Afterwards, wander past the ancient Church House and church; just past the school, take the footpath on the left up to the lane leading into Quantock Combe. The Climb & Return: Haul up the steep track in Quantock Combe, skirting around Fire Beacon. Cross back over the road at Crowcombe Park Gate and head due north over Frog Hill. Descend the ridge dividing Frog Combe and Lady’s Combe into Holford Combe, following the stream all the way back to Holford. Woods in Holford Combe Fact File Start/Parking: Holford Bowling Green car park (ST 154 410). Distance: 7 miles (11.2 km). Difficulty: Moderate to strenuous (two good climbs and full ridge exposure). OS Map: OS Explorer 140. Nearest Pub: The Plough Inn, Holford (at the start/finish) or The Carew Arms, Crowcombe (at the halfway point). Wild red deer above Holford Combe

There are corners of the Caribbean that dazzle with sheer volcanic drama, and others that overwhelm with high-octane resort glitz. Then there is Îles des Saintes—a scattering of sun-drenched French islets anchored just south of Guadeloupe that seems to belong entirely to another era. I arrived here as one properly should: under canvas, sailing into the breathtaking natural amphitheatre of the Baie des Saintes. Stepping ashore on Terre-de-Haut, the archipelago’s main island, felt less like arriving at a typical cruise port and more like wandering onto the sun-bleached set of an unmade Ealing comedy - a sort of tropical Whisky Galore!, only fueled by aged Guadeloupean rum and island eccentricity. Check out our Caribbean page for more travel posts in the area Verandas, Scooters, and Roaming Roosters If neighbouring Nevis takes the crown for towering, emerald majesty, Les Saintes wins hands-down in the ‘Place I’d Most Like to Retire’ category. It possesses that elusive, forgotten-world charm unique to very small, very special islands. Terre-de-Haut is delightfully devoid of heavy traffic. Aside from the occasional hum of an electric scooter or moped buzzing along the waterfront, the loudest sound is often the surf lapping against stone quays or the squawk of a free-roaming rooster. The main street is an endearing blend of classic French sophistication and Creole informality. Smart boutiques and bistro-style eateries sit cheek-by-jowl with pavement vendors selling pyramids of fragrant local spices, vanilla pods, and woven sun hats. Chickens stroll down the main drag with absolute reckless abandon, entirely unbothered by diners sipping crisp rosé on shaded balconies above. Many of these charming, reasonably priced eateries feature wooden verandas cantilevered directly over the turquoise bay. Sitting there, watching traditional painted fishing boats (saintoises) bob gently on the tide with a cold beer in hand, you realise you could quite happily let whole years slip past without noticing. Mad Dogs, Fort Napoléon, and Rocketing Iguanas No visit to Terre-de-Haut is complete without undertaking the pilgrimage up the hill to Fort Napoléon. Tackling the steep ascent under the blistering midday sun is classic ‘mad dogs and Englishmen’ territory, but the reward at the summit is well worth every drop of sweat. While the fort’s museum had closed its heavy wooden doors the very minute we arrived at the crest, the panoramic vantage point from the ramparts is nothing short of sensational. See our post on Bequia for another hidden Caribbean gem Looking out across the sparkling channel, the other islets of the Saintes archipelago lie scattered across the blue, with the vast, misty peaks of mainland Guadeloupe rising grandly on the horizon. The dry, scrubby foreground is a stark, botanical wonder of towering cacti and thorn acacias — the undisputed territory of local iguanas. One particularly hefty specimen, catching sight of us peering through the scrub, scuttled and rocketed away through the undergrowth with astonishing, comical speed. An Island of Slow Pleasures Wandering back down into the cool shadows of the village, we found ourselves swept up in a joyous, laughing mob of school children just released for the afternoon. By two o'clock, the tropical heat had asserted its daily authority, and the entire island slowed to an absolute crawl. Sitting under a canvas awning, tucked into a plate of grilled mahi-mahi and reflecting on the timeless rhythm of the place, a very distinct thought settled in: one could easily spend every winter here, nursing a cool drink, gazing out over the water, and happily penning second- or third-rate novels. Les Saintes: Essential Fact File Where is it? Îles des Saintes is an eight-island archipelago (only two inhabited: Terre-de-Haut and Terre-de-Bas) lying approximately 15 km (9 miles) south of Guadeloupe in the French West Indies. Status & Currency: An overseas department of France. The official currency is the Euro (€), and standard European consumer protections apply. Language: French and Antillean Creole. English is spoken in most visitor-facing restaurants and tour hubs, but a little polite French goes a long way. Getting Around: Cars for hire are non-existent for casual visitors. Transport is strictly on foot, by bicycle, or via rented electric golf carts and scooters available right by the ferry dock. Local Delicacy: Do not leave without buying a Tourment d'Amour—a traditional Saintes tartlet made with shortcrust pastry, sponge cake, and coconut, guava, or banana jam, traditionally baked by sailors' wives awaiting their husbands' return. Frequently Asked Questions How do you get to Les Saintes? Most independent travellers take the regular passenger ferries from Trois-Rivières on the southern tip of Basse-Terre, Guadeloupe (approx. 20–30 minutes crossing). Daily catamarans also run from Pointe-à-Pitre during peak season, while sailing charters frequently drop anchor in the sheltered bay of Terre-de-Haut. Is Terre-de-Haut walkable? Yes, the main village and nearby beaches (such as Plage de Pompierre and Anse Mire) are easily walkable if you don't mind a few rolling hills. To explore the outer edges of the island, hiring an electric golf buggy or scooter for the day is highly recommended. What is the best time of year to visit? The dry season (carême) runs from December to May, offering warm, sunny days, low humidity, and gentle trade winds. The summer and autumn months bring higher humidity and the Caribbean hurricane season. Do I need a passport? Yes. As an overseas territory of France, entry requirements mirror the European Schengen framework for UK and international visitors. Valid passports are essential.

Here's a little secret for British drivers heading long-distance to Italy and all points east: high in the Alps there is an eminently convenient stopover location that is Paradise by name and, most certainly, Paradise by nature. In fact, so fabulous is the Gran Paradiso National Park, that it is well worth making a special journey there just to sit high among its lofty peaks and absorb the natural beauty of the Alps. And I'm talking about the Alps as they used to be, before skiing and its associated developments scarred nine out of ten mountain slopes from Val d'Isère in the west to the Austrian Fischbacher Alps in the east. The Ultimate Alpine Pit-Stop for UK Drivers Heading to Italy If you are driving from the UK down into Italy via France, Gran Paradiso—and the picturesque valley of Cogne in particular—is one of the best-kept secrets on the trans-Alpine route. Located just under an hour’s drive south of the Aosta Valley motorway after emerging from the Mont Blanc Tunnel or crossing the Grand St Bernard Pass, it offers a tranquil, high-altitude sanctuary where you can swap motorway fatigue for pristine mountain air, world-class local cuisine, and spectacular Ibex-watching before continuing south toward Turin, Tuscany, or the Italian Lakes. I would go as far as to say that the Gran Paradiso is quite simply the most breathtaking of all mainland Europe's rapidly decreasing areas of natural beauty. Vast glaciers leach their icy content into rushing streams; in places these hurl themselves over dizzying drops to create awesome falls; primeval larch forests hug the lower slopes while ibex, chamois and marmots graze above the tree line and higher still eagles and bearded vultures soar in the thin blue mountain air. That's the Gran Paradiso: nature's supreme aspirin for the driver who's had to endure the bustle of a channel port, the boredom of a French motorway and the toll that he or she has had to pay to pass through either the Mont Blanc or the Grand St Bernard tunnels. A Hidden Alpine Shortcut in the Aosta Valley These tunnels take you into Northern Italy (you can go over the col if the weather is okay) and introduce you to the vast and beautiful Val d'Aosta where you might find yourself thinking: "That's it! I'm not driving another inch until I've relaxed and enjoyed this wonderful view." Those are my sentiments when I reach this magnificent vale. The town of Aosta is a pleasant place in which to spend a day, filled to the brim with the remains of a rich, colourful and often violent history. But its close proximity to traffic is no thing for a chap who's just driven more than a thousand miles and may have many, many more to go. There's only one thing to do and that's head for the hills. Since the entire Aosta Valley is a hub for alpine adventures, it's the perfect place to pause and embark on a guided trekking or climbing trip with Explore-Share before continuing your journey south. Escaping the Motorway: The Winding Ascent to Cogne All you have to do is drive a mile or two back towards Mont Blanc from Aosta and look out for a small side road leading to a village called Cogne which will be on your left. You might, as you begin to ascend this long and winding road, curse me for this advice: but believe me, the 14-mile drive is worth it. 🚗 Gran Paradiso: Driver’s Fast FactsDistance from Mont Blanc Tunnel (Courmayeur): ~50 mins (48 km via A5 & SR47 to Cogne). Distance from Grand St Bernard Pass (Aosta): ~45 mins (28 km). Ideal Stopover Duration: 1 to 3 nights for hiking, relaxation, and local Valdostan gastronomy. Top Base for Drivers: Cogne or Valnontey both offer easy road access, quiet traditional inns, and direct trailheads into the national park. And don't be put off by Cogne itself. Decades ago, this was a quaint village where farmers took cattle up to the surrounding mountain meadows every day so that they could make a strong local version of a sort of Emmental cheese. Now fewer bovines moo in Cogne's trendy, touristy streets. This is the Gran Paradiso National Park's one bow to mammon - but having said that, the village is unspoilt compared to the chic and overcrowded horrors that can be found in similar French and Swiss resorts. The old mining community managed to avoid the worst of alpine development thanks to the fact that cross-country skiing is the premier winter sport around here, and not its glitzy, piste-busting, downhill cousin. Indeed there are miles of trails in the three mountain valleys which converge on Cogne and in season these lead the skier through a veritable fairyland of ancient villages where the main transport seems to be the horse and sleigh. If you want to truly explore the backcountry beyond the groomed tracks, booking a guided ski touring trip in Gran Paradiso with Explore-Share is an incredible way to experience the winter wilderness safely. Valnontey: At the Heart of Italy’s Premier National Park But in summer there's only one place to go from Cogne and that's up. Up one of the three valleys - in my case, to Valnontey. This is a hamlet four or five miles distant and it is the last and highest place you can get to by road - a road that introduces you to the very heart of the national park. And it is high: there is a campsite at Valnontey which is reckoned to be one of the highest in Europe, and from it trails lead deep into the park. Each and every one of them provides stunning views, for the Great Paradise is somehow the mountainous dreamland that most of us envisage when we think of the high Alps. IF YOU LIKE THIS POST CHECK OUT ANOTHER OF OUR MOUNTAIN ARTICLES Royal Heritage and the Preservation of 'Lo Stambecco' That it remains unspoilt is largely thanks to the shy and elegant ibex. In the 1800s these mountain goats were being killed at an alarming rate and eventually King Vittorio Emanuele II declared the region a royal hunting reserve in an attempt to avert an extinction of the species. He formed a special guard to fight the poachers and built hundreds of miles of paths and mule drives that to this day allow access to the massive hinterland. The reserve was later donated to the Italian government and by 1922 had become the country's first national park. Today the protected area covers over 173,000 acres from the permanently snow-capped, 13,323-foot Monte Gran Paradiso, down past glacial lakes and vast flowering meadows to the lower wooded slopes and deep valleys where the boom of rushing water haunts the indigenous forests night and day. And happily the king of this heavenly realm is definitely lo stambecco - the ibex - a creature which they say is as identifiable to the Italians as the bald eagle is to Americans. Thousands inhabit the park, and you have a good chance of seeing them if you are willing and fit, especially if you stay overnight at one of the well-equipped rifugi (mountain huts) so you can be out and about at dawn or dusk when the animals tend to feed and play. For those less familiar with the terrain, joining a guided multi-day hiking tour in Gran Paradiso via Explore-Share can take the hassle out of planning hut reservations and maximize your chances of spotting these majestic creatures. Gran Paradiso: Key Facts at a Glance Feature Details Location Aosta Valley & Piedmont, Northwestern Italy Established 1922 (Italy's first national park) Total Area Over 71,000 hectares (175,000+ acres) Highest Peak Monte Gran Paradiso (4,061 m / 13,323 ft) Iconic Fauna Alpine ibex (lo stambecco), chamois, marmots, golden eagles, bearded vultures Key Gateway Cogne / Valnontey Valley Best For High-altitude hiking, wildlife spotting, cross-country skiing, alpine culture High-Altitude Hiking: Rifugi, Glaciers, and Alpine Spirits I once took the trail that leads vertically south up from Valnontey, past an immense waterfall and through numerous craggy ravines before issuing out onto a high rock-strewn morass just beneath the massive range of high peaks. While these steep trails provide plenty of adventure for fit walkers, venturing further onto the glaciers to summit Monte Gran Paradiso itself is a serious alpine undertaking. If you want to safely experience the high ice, going with a certified professional is a must; arranging a guided climbing tour with Explore-Share ensures you have an experienced mountaineer to safely navigate the crevasses and technical terrain. Some years before, when Harry was just eight years old, I took him - at his determined insistence - up towards 8,500 feet to the big Refuge Vittorio Sella, and was made to feel horribly guilty as the poor little chap almost wept with fatigue. Then I bought him as much chocolate as he could eat at the hut, and he wiped away the tears asking me how they brought such goods to this lonely spot. With that, a helicopter zoomed in and the pilot entered the shop laden with boxes of Mars bars and fizzy drinks. Harry thought that was cool, but not as cool as I deemed the delicious local wines from the Comunità Montana del Grand Paradis. These go down particularly well after a day's vertical hiking, and go some way to alleviating the blisters which are the inevitable result of ascending and descending such awesome slopes. But the wine doesn't keep out the evening chill as well as a particularly fiery spirit which the locals make from some sort of mountain grass. I don't know what they put in it, but the evil hooch is mind numbing to the extent that it's vaguely hallucinogenic. Asking for details can be difficult as the locals speak a variety of languages: Italian and French are mixed with Piedmontese and Franco-Provençal, while in the nearby Gressoney Valley they speak Walser, which is a German dialect. Anyway, if a night of high spirits finds you waking with a sore head as well as sore feet, you can always take the gentle but sensational stroll up the riverside from Valnontey to the base of the Even in the height of summer, this is the one place in Europe where you can really chill out before continuing your long drive into Italy and beyond.... FAQ What is the best time of year to visit Gran Paradiso National Park? Summer (mid-June through September) is the ideal season for hiking, wildlife watching, and exploring the high alpine trails around Cogne and Valnontey. During winter, the region turns into a premier cross-country skiing destination with over 60 miles of scenic snow trails. Where is Gran Paradiso National Park located? Gran Paradiso National Park is located in Northwestern Italy, spanning the Aosta Valley and Piedmont regions. It lies just south of the city of Aosta, making it an easy detour for drivers entering Italy via the Mont Blanc or Grand St Bernard Tunnels. How do you spot ibex in Gran Paradiso? To catch a glimpse of lo stambecco (the Alpine ibex), head out along the higher trails early in the morning or late in the afternoon when animals graze above the tree line. Staying overnight at high-altitude mountain huts (rifugi), such as Refuge Vittorio Sella above Valnontey, greatly increases your chances. What is the main base village for exploring the park? The village of Cogne serves as the primary gateway to the park. From Cogne, you can travel further up into the Valnontey hamlet, which sits at the end of the paved road and offers direct access to the highest trailheads and mountain campsites.

Just a few shots from the yacht I am sitting on right now just off Marigot Bay, St Martin, Caribbean. Not this yacht in the picture, thank god… I've been fortunate enough to visit St Martin several times, but this was a rather different experience: nearly two weeks aboard a friend's sailing yacht, exploring the island and surrounding waters from the sea. I've written more about my travels around this fascinating two-nation island in my St Martin travel story — and you can find all my Caribbean adventures in my Caribbean travel hub. St Martin from the Sea: A Sailing Adventure in the Caribbean I've been fortunate enough to visit St Martin a number of times, but this particular visit was rather different. In the spring of 2022, after the strange years of Covid, I found myself spending nearly two weeks aboard a friend's sailing yacht, exploring St Martin and the surrounding Caribbean waters. It was a wonderful way to see an island I already knew reasonably well. From the sea, everything looks different. Marigot, on the French side of the island, sits beneath the surrounding hills, while the coastline stretches away towards beaches, little bays and neighbouring islands. There is something particularly appealing about arriving somewhere by boat rather than stepping off an aircraft and immediately joining the traffic. St Martin is an unusual place at the best of times. The island is divided between French Saint-Martin and Dutch Sint Maarten, with two cultures, two administrative systems and two quite different personalities sharing the same small piece of Caribbean. Travel writer Martin Hesp enjoys a beer on St Martin But from the deck of a yacht, all of that seems to matter rather less. You simply see the turquoise water, the beaches, the boats bobbing in sheltered bays and the green hills rising behind the coast. These photographs are a small record of that trip — a rather different view of St Martin in the Caribbean, and one that brings back some very happy memories. I've written more extensively about the island in my St Martin travel story, while all my Caribbean journeys can be found in my Caribbean travel hub. Grand Case, St Martin St Martin from the water There isn't really much more to say. The photographs tell the story rather better than I can. But that is perhaps the point of a photo essay. Sometimes the best way to remember a place is simply to look at it. And St Martin, viewed from the Caribbean Sea, is a particularly beautiful place to remember.

They call it the “Friendly Isle”, which is a good start. So friendly that you can almost kiss the incoming airliners that screech in over the bay to land at St Martin’s international airport. The island is also sometimes known as the culinary capital of the Caribbean, which is certainly another bonus. It is also one of the only islands in the world divided by an international border - which at first glance might seem like no great shakes - but which is a fact that brings bonuses of its own. Saint Martin, to name the French half - or Sint Maarten, which is what the Dutch half call it - is a delightful and fascinating island located at an important geographic apex in the Caribbean. Explore my Caribbean travel stories, islands and adventures This tiny double-kingdom is situated at the north-easterly point where the great chain of Caribbean islands swings south from it’s east to west run, having passed Jamaica, the Dominican Republic and the British Virgin Isles. Beyond St Martin the islands head south to form the chain that’s known as the Windward Isles, which includes Martinique, St Lucia and St Vincent. Sailors certainly know where St Martin is. For many British trans-Atlantic yachtsmen it is the first port of call - one that also happens to be a centrally placed base from where they can explore all corners of the Caribbean. Moreover, it boasts one of the biggest natural harbours on the eastern shores of the Atlantic. So despite being small, this two-nation state punches way above its weight - which somehow makes it all the more ideal as a holiday destination. In fact, I’d recommend it as one of the best introductions to the Caribbean, partly because there is so much going on. And it really is friendly. Unlike some Caribbean locations where you do have to be a bit careful, you can enjoy all parts of St Martin day or night and you will be as safe as you’d be in a British town or city. Because of all the maritime comings and goings, and also because of the twin-nation status, the place is cosmopolitan. Caribbean certainly - but also a blend of European and to some extent American. Also, you can fly direct to St Martin from Europe, which is a boon. We travelled via Amsterdam aboard a KLM jumbo - an easy enough trip now that Schipol airport has an air-side, inexpensive, “pod-style” hotel where you can get a quick and convenient night’s sleep before continuing to the Caribbean. And talking of that flight, one of the best known things about St Martin is the Princess Juliana International Airport where the planes have to come in at unbelievably low altitudes above Maho Beach. Standing on the sand and feeling a 747’s downdraught in your hair is one of the island’s must-do experiences, albeit a slightly anxious one. Don’t try back-wash-surfing which is what some idiots do when the big planes crank up their engines in readiness for take-off. Clutching a fence while your whole body is flapping like washing on a windy line is not my idea of fun. What is my idea of fun is hiring a car and spending time exploring St Martin. The first thing to say is there’s no need to worry about that international border - as the Dutch and the French are sensible European nations they don’t go in for border checks nowadays. However, despite there being no fence you can tell the difference between the Dutch and French halves. The latter is a little bit less urbanised and… how can I say this? Well, more French. Some parts of the southerly Dutch half are more built-up and perhaps more Americanised, specially the area around Simpson Bay near the airport. We stayed in Dutch St Maarten, but only just. Oyster Pond is a delightful secluded inlet on the far easterly side of the island close to the border. And the Oyster Bay Beach Resort is a large and comfortable high-end complex perched above a coral reef with ocean views and white sand beaches. Our luxurious apartment was huge - bigger than our house - and just one minute’s stroll from that white sand beach. The staff were exceptionally friendly and helpful, the food good, and the place made an altogether perfect base for our week-long adventures around the island. One of my favourite St Martin areas is just a two minute drive north of Oyster Pond. The Etang au Poissons nature reserve covers 3000 hectares of sea and 150 hectares of land including islets like Petite Clef, Green Cay and Tintamarre. The marshlands of Etang and its neighbour the Salines d’Orient are also part of this protected area and include mangrove swamps which are a nursery for many marine species. Nearby, Orient Bay is one of the Caribbean’s best known beaches, boasting over a mile of palm strewn white sands. North again there’s lovely Cul-de-Sac Bay where you can take the little ferry across to Ilet de Pinel, which is also part of the nature reserve and which also boasts a beautiful beach. We spent a morning out there, snorkelling around the coral reefs and doing a quick hike around the isle during one of the brief rain storms which are always a feature of Caribbean life. The far north of St Martin is wild and hilly, but a road cuts across from Cul-de-Sac on the wilder, rougher, east coast to Grand Case on the west. As does so it passes the smaller French airport where, in order to land, pilots also have to nosedive their aeroplanes at an alarming rate. I suppose if I had to name just one favourite spot on St Martin it would be the village of Grand Case, partly because it has retained an old-fashioned Caribbean authenticity thanks to its clapperboard architecture. But more probably because charming, beach-side Grand Case has the reputation of being the island’s gourmet capital. Many of the restaurants are located in traditional huts built on stilts above the beach. We had a huge Sunday lunch of freshly barbecued chicken and fish that cost us about £5 each - and that included the beer. Indeed, to go to Grand Case and not have the barbecued food would be just about impossible - the alluring aromatic smoke seems to emanate from every wattle and daub house down the street. A night-time stroll along the boulevard is another of St Martin’s must-do moments. The music booms and you squeeze through great throngs of tourists and locals, all having a good time. The capital of French St Martin is Marigot, which you reach by travelling down the west coast from Grand Case. Apart from its marinas it is known for its market which is a lively, colourful, Provence-meets-Caribbean affair. Stalls sell fruit, vegetables, spices, local meats and fresh fish. There are also craft stands where you can buy flavoured rums, including Shrub - a local speciality in which the spirit is flavoured with orange peel. Alternatively you can try Mauby, a local bark-based infusion - but I bet you’ll prefer the Shrub. We dined one night with West Country friends at Le Mini Club - which doesn’t sound too inspiring and isn’t actually a club - but it does one of the best buffet dinners I’ve eaten anywhere and has fantastic open air views of the marina and harbour area. I knew we were on to a good thing when the maitre d’ told me he’d worked for several years at Taunton’s Castle Hotel under the tutelage of the late Gary Rhodes. Despite this recommendation I wasn’t quite expecting the sheer spectacle of the buffet. For under £40 a head (which included ludicrous amounts of wine) you could help yourself to whatever you liked, including as many lobsters as your plate or stomach could hold. Further on down the west coast and we’re back into Dutch Sint Maarten where we can take the long and winding Rue du Sandy Ground around the great natural harbour of Simpson Bay Lagoon. Much of this most easterly section of the island is in private hands so it’s difficult to reach the beach until you turn onto the southern coast. Then the area around Baie Longue towards the airport is the most Americanised with golf courses, condo-developments and high rise hotels. I like Philipsburg, the capital of Dutch St Maarten and the biggest community on the island. It’s a busy, bustling place full of locals going about their business and tourists looking bemused in the Caribbean heat. When the Dutch first arrived in 1631 the sandy strip separating Great Bay from Great Salt Pond was chosen as the site for a settlement. John Philips, a Scotsman, developed much of the town between 1735 and 1746 when the sugar factories began to generate economic growth. He was appointed commander of the island and introduced modern agricultural techniques for the growing of sugar cane, coffee and cotton. So is the name Philipsburg based on its founder, John Philips? Oddly not - though this seems to be of no concern to the million-plus cruise ship passengers who dock here each year and enjoy the town. We had a delicious lunch in one of the many little street-food joints in a side alley just off the main shopping street. My Caribbean jerk chicken cost about £3.50 - four quid if you include the beer. After a hectic afternoon in Philipsburg it was time to retreat to the peace and quiet of the Oyster Bay Beach Resort and a rum punch, followed by a candle-lit dinner down on the white sand beach where all we could hear was the ocean’s roar. A rather romantic way to end a day on what is already a Friendly Isle. Fact File Martin stayed on Dutch St Maarten as a guest of the Oyster Bay Beach Resort. The resort has two restaurants and many other facilities, such as free snorkelling equipment and beach loungers. Visit www.oysterbaybeachresort.com for more details. To find out more about Dutch St Maarten visit www.st-maarten.com Economy KLM flights from London to St Maarten - look out for regular offers - check out www.klm.com

A stay at the classic Cobbler's Cove resort offers tropical luxury, excellent food and an ideal base for exploring both the beaches of Barbados and its wonderfully colourful local life. Barbados is arguably the most beautiful democracy on Earth – a place where local fishermen sit shoulder to shoulder with international celebrities in rum bars built on stilts overlooking palm-fringed bays, an isle where the great outdoor happy-go-lucky Caribbean culture is celebrated communally by rich and poor alike. Travel by powerboat down the “Platinum Coast”, as the western shoreline is sometimes known, and the local skipper will point out villas and mansions in a litany that sounds like a contents-listing for Hello magazine. Yet tucked between the $multi-million homes belonging to the mega-rich and famous you will see the fish markets, shacks and rum bars that add the vital and wholly enjoyable touch of local colour, without which any location soon becomes bland and wearisome From a visitor perspective at least, Barbados does local colour better than any other island in the Caribbean. Why? Because Barbados is friendly. I know of staggeringly beautiful islands in those warm seas where that is not the case – where, no matter how fine the views, there is an edge that has you watching your back. Indeed, some don’t bother offering visitors local colour at all - you find yourself spending a week trapped in some lovely but boring gated resort sealed from reality. Explore my Caribbean travel stories, islands and adventures Barbados is the opposite. It is very real, very exciting and very lovely to look at. You can step from the cocooned, air-conditioned luxury of your hotel into a shack that passes for a bar and feel as snug as you would in a British pub. Which actually isn’t stretching an analogy too far because you will, surprisingly, hear Somerset accents in some of the more remote parishes of Barbados. An historian told me this is because a whole bunch of West Country hot-heads were deported to the island after the Monmouth Rebellion of 1685 – and they obviously passed on their slow burr to the slaves on the sugar plantations… More of all that later. What about that cocooned air-conditioned luxury I mentioned? Well, places don’t get much more cocooning or luxurious than the amazing boutique hotel known as Cobbler’s Cove which is located in a heavenly bay towards the northern end of the Platinum Coast. When the people who run it claim it is one of the “best-loved hotels in the Caribbean” they are not exaggerating. Set in exquisite tropical gardens this English country house removed to the Caribbean coast has more style in its little fingertip than you’ll find in an entire Somerset-Maugham novel. In fact, you can image someone like Maugham frequenting the place, or Graham Greene, or Noel Coward. Modern celebrities go there too – although the staff will refrain from telling you which ones. For people with busy lives this place is an ideal antidote. A tropical peace pervades, and the excellent staff go about their business with a quiet efficiency that is laced with good humour. This hustle-free, noise-free, TV-free zone is both beautiful to look at it and extremely comfortable to be in. The suites all have a full opening frontage of slatted doors that fold back to open your living room to the gardens with their humming birds – without even leaving your bed you feel you’ve suddenly attained a millionaire status. The daily afternoon tea, the cocktails, the general unhurried but luxuriant ambience… All add up to provide the perfect getaway for a person who drives themselves too hard in their working life. As for the dining, enjoyed in the open terrace above the beach – it was just about faultless. A daily catch brought in by the hotel’s very own fisherman supplements each menu and the fresh seafood was dealt with in superb ways. One morning the head chef took me to the island’s main fish market in Bridgetown so I could see the amazing array of seafood that is caught around the island’s waters. The flying-fish-filleters had knife skills I couldn’t believe – flying-fish being one of the great staples of the local Bajan diet. BARBADOS FISH MARKET After an hour spent in the heat of that mad loud seemingly anarchic free-for-all it was a relief to get back to the cool quiet of the hotel – which is something you find yourself thinking quite a lot on this holiday. Only a person looking for plenty of noise, glitz and bling could possibly dislike Cobbler’s Cove – those looking to unwind in a world of tropical luxury will run out of superlatives… Oddly enough, though, getting out of the haven and into the heated, pleasant, always jolly, maelstrom of Bajan life somehow highlights the charm of the hotel. Leaving the luxury-zone is a very easy and altogether joyful thing to do - all the happy resident need do is stroll half a lovely mile along the white sand beach under the palms to turn a coastal corner into Speightstown. After a few rum punches and a fried flying fish or two in the Fisherman’s Pub perched on stilts above the lapping Caribbean you’ll find yourself gently falling into the laid back mañana attitude for which this island is so renowned. If you wanted to shake off the idyllic torpor, you could visit the town’s new museum and learn all about the sugar plantations and the slave trade on which the island’s economy was originally built. At Speightstown we’re in the parish of St Peter, which is one of the most northerly parts of the island, but of course a trip around the entire 166 squares miles is a must – so too is a visit to one of the old plantations where you can learn more history and buy single estate rum. Barbados, like a football match, is a game of two halves. This odd statement is actually highly relevant to sightseers going around the island because you can basically divide the place east and west. The West Coast has fabulous beaches and safe calm seas, and as a result is fairly built up. One of the best ways of seeing it and learning all about those famous celebrities is to cruise up the coast in one of the many charter boats. We enjoyed a day out in a sleek catamaran called Silvermoon – the crew were a joy and kept us wined and dined for hours, stopping here and there so we could dive over reefs and meet gentle giant sea turtles. The East, or Atlantic, Coast is breezy and beautifully wild. Its rugged terrain sweeps down to miles of untouched, windswept beaches bordered by rough seas. Barbados EAST COAST Swimming here is not recommended, but walking most definitely is. There’s even a disused railway line that takes you along the scenic cliff-tops safely away from traffic. It was opened in 1881, closed in 1937, and makes for an ideal hiking route. I was delighted – and amazed – to discover just how empty the East Coast is. It is no exaggeration to say that the 20-mile long littoral is one of the most beautiful coastlines in the world – and yet you can walk for an hour or two without seeing a soul. Tucked just behind the booming beach in a particularly green, hilly and scenic bit of the island is tiny remote Shorey Village where we visited Aunty Benn’s Bar – the aunty involved being the female relation of the boxer Nigel Benn. Rich Local Barbados Accents What you get is a concrete shack boasting a counter and two homemade stools, but this belies the great charm of the place which seems fossilised in the steamy sugary syrup of the Bajan rural idyll. This is where I heard local men talking in a pure Somerset dialect – albeit one with a touch of Africa about its vowels. Further down the coast we called in at beautiful peaceful Bathsheba where a stately church on a hill looks down upon a windswept tropical beach-fringed paradise - and where I was tempted to make permanent retirement plans. From here we headed due west across the widest part of the island to descend the low hills to the capital. Apart from its famous cricket stadium (where I was once lucky enough to watch two 20-20 World Cup matches) Bridgetown boasts an amazing array of shops as well as some fine restaurants. The most pleasant of these are located down in the Waterfront area where jazz musicians mingle with waiters to bring you an entire musical and culinary experience in the heat under the stars. And so once again you find yourself heading back to Cobbler’s Cove after a long hot busy day. Put on a robe, stroll down to the beach for a moonlit swim, have a night-cap in the al-fresco bar under the stars on the way back to your air-conditioned room… It is very, very hard trying to find what’s not to like about a week at Cobbler’s Cove – unless it’s the fact that seven days is simply not long enough… Frequently Asked Questions about Cobbler's Cove and Barbados Is Cobbler's Cove a good hotel in Barbados? Yes. Cobbler's Cove is an intimate luxury hotel on Barbados's west coast, with a beautiful beachfront setting, stylish accommodation, good food and the relaxed atmosphere that makes the island such an appealing destination. Where is Cobbler's Cove in Barbados? Cobbler's Cove is on the west coast of Barbados, close to the historic town of Speightstown. Its position on the island's Platinum Coast makes it a particularly attractive base for exploring the west coast and enjoying Barbados's beaches. Is Cobbler's Cove a good place for a luxury holiday? Cobbler's Cove is particularly suited to travellers looking for a more intimate luxury experience rather than a large resort. Its beachfront location, gardens, dining and relaxed atmosphere make it a good choice for a romantic or indulgent Barbados escape. What is the beach like at Cobbler's Cove? One of the hotel's biggest attractions is its position directly beside the Caribbean Sea. The west coast of Barbados is known for its calm, clear waters and attractive sandy beaches, making this a wonderful part of the island for swimming and relaxing. What is there to do near Cobbler's Cove? The hotel is close to Speightstown and within easy reach of many of Barbados's attractions. Visitors can explore the west coast, visit historic houses and gardens, enjoy beaches and restaurants, or travel further across the island to places such as Bridgetown and the rugged east coast. Is Speightstown worth visiting? Yes. Speightstown is one of Barbados's most interesting historic settlements and has a very different character from the larger resort areas. It is a good place to experience a more traditional side of the island, with historic buildings, shops, restaurants and views across the Caribbean. Which part of Barbados is best for a luxury holiday? The west coast, often known as the Platinum Coast, is one of the most popular areas for a luxury Barbados holiday. It has some of the island's best beaches, restaurants and hotels, while still providing easy access to other parts of Barbados. What is the best time to visit Barbados? Barbados is a year-round destination, but the drier winter season from around December to April is particularly popular with visitors looking for reliable sunshine and warm temperatures. The summer and autumn months can be quieter and sometimes offer better hotel rates. Is Barbados good for food and restaurants? Very much so. Barbados has a strong food culture ranging from excellent seafood and traditional Bajan cooking to sophisticated restaurants and hotel dining. Exploring the island's food is an important part of the experience. Is Cobbler's Cove a good base for exploring Barbados? Yes. Although the hotel encourages you to slow down and enjoy its beachfront setting, its position on the west coast also makes it a useful base for exploring Barbados, including Speightstown, Bridgetown and the island's contrasting east coast. For this article, I'd put the hotel-specific Stay22 button quite high up, immediately after you've introduced Cobbler's Cove. Then use the general Barbados/Platinum Coast Allez map later in the article. That gives you the best chance of capturing both the reader who wants this particular hotel and the reader who is still comparing accommodation.

They say every cloud has a silver lining, but in the world of international cricket, England supporters are often pushed hard to find one. However, there is a particular silver lining that is better described as a dazzling jewel—an emerald and azure centerpiece dropped into the heart of the Caribbean. The waterfront at Souffriere It is called St Lucia, and it is a place where the soul finds its footing again. You could take a beating on the pitch every day of the year on this wondrous isle and still never feel defeated. Just being here negates despair and instils heady wafts of optimism. So beautiful is this island that even the most travel-weary soul need have no fear of tears or strife. From the Boundary to the Blue Horizon A rum punch and a swim in Rodney Bay, just down the road from the state-of-the-art Daren Sammy National Cricket Stadium (formerly Beau-se-jour), is enough to wash memories of fallen wickets into happy oblivion. I remember roaring down the west coast on the flying bridge of a big marlin game-fishing launch, reflecting on a particularly abysmal run of form for the England squad. I couldn't help but chuckle. Others can keep their dry and dusty lands; the real victory is simply being lucky enough to step foot on St Lucian soil. The Most Awesome Panorama in the Caribbean Sailing down the mountainous west coast, there comes a moment that stays with you for a lifetime. Rounding the point at Anse Chastanet, you are presented with a view so impossibly dramatic that your eyes almost ache. Pitons from the sea off Anse Chastenet Across the bay beyond the town of Soufriere, two immense volcanic plugs—The Pitons—rise straight out of the ocean, nearly 3,000 feet into the clouds. Around their skirts, rainforest climbs abruptly into the hinterland. The brain struggles for similes; you end up relying on cinema for reference. It is James Bond-villain-hideaway meets Jurassic Park. Explore my Caribbean travel stories, islands and adventures The Pitons The Pitons: A UNESCO World Heritage site, these twin peaks (Gros Piton and Petit Piton) are the undisputed icons of the island. Luxury Amidst History Somewhere in that vertical jungle lies som e of the most exclusive real estate on Earth. At places like Sugar Beach (the old Jalousie plantation), you see the "colonial chic" where world-class luxury now sits upon land with a complex, heavy history. That is the dichotomy of the Caribbean: places that were once scenes of abject toil are now sanctuaries of pampered peace. While St Lucia hosts some of the world's wealthiest denizens, it remains an island that rewards anyone who has saved their pennies for a "holiday of a lifetime." The Spirit of the "Jump-Up" Unlike some Caribbean destinations where visitors might feel confined to their all-inclusive resorts, St Lucia is as friendly as it is beautiful. To truly feel the pulse of the island, you must head to the Gros Islet Street Party. Every Friday night, the locals party in the streets. The main road closes, stalls sell everything from jerk chicken to ice-cold Piton beer, and speakers the size of houses boom with incredible music. It is a seething, joyful crowd where everyone—locals and tourists alike—has a fantastically good time. Adventures in the Interior While the beaches are world-class, the heart of the island offers a different kind of magic. I once took a trek into the virgin rainforest with a Rastafarian guide—a laid-back, Caribbean version of Ray Mears. He knew every tree, root, and leaf, expounding on their medicinal virtues. Being alone under the dark canopy of a tropical rainforest is an exhilarating experience. The earthy scents and the sheer "noise" of the jungle make you feel intensely alive. My walk ended at one of the many tall waterfalls that punctuate the island's interior. Arriving during a hot, steamy rainstorm, I found it didn't matter a jot to stand under the falls fully clothed. Why St Lucia Still Wins Whether you are scuba-diving over the coral reefs or lazing on the beach at Anse Chastanet watching the palms drip their silhouetted leaves into the limpid waves, this island heals the soul. Even the most disappointed sports fan or stressed-out professional will find a smile here. In St Lucia, the silver lining isn't just a cloud—it’s the whole horizon. The beach at Anse Chastanet

Hidden away in the Grenadines, Bequia is one of the Caribbean's best-kept secrets. While nearby Mustique attracts celebrities and St Vincent draws adventure travellers, Bequia moves to an altogether gentler rhythm. This tiny island of just over 5,000 people offers glorious beaches, friendly locals, excellent restaurants and some of the most relaxed island life I have experienced anywhere in the Caribbean. How to Get to Bequia Our little island plane dropped off two local passengers at Carriacou before heading north across the dreamy isles mentioned to arrive at the green, green jewel of Bequia. From the small new airstrip, we were taken by specially adapted pick-up truck – which is the ubiquitous form of public transport on this island - to the wonderful and luxurious Bequia Beach Hotel, where I could happily have retired from journalism and just about everything else forever. 🏝️ Where to Stay in Bequia Looking for the perfect Caribbean escape? Compare boutique hotels, beachside guesthouses, apartments and villas across beautiful Bequia. Luxury on the Sands of Friendship Beach The resort is set on the slopes of the hill which run down to palm-strewn gardens and a beach. Friendship Beach to be exact – which has now entered my list of Top 10 beaches in the world. Think warm seas washing soft sand, shaded here and there by dramatically drooping trees and punctuated at one point by the hotel’s bar and excellent restaurant. It wasn’t the busiest season when we were there and the only things we shared the beach with were pelicans and crabs. When the heat got too much our large, air-conditioned, sensationally decorated apartment was a stylish refuge if ever there was one. Island Life at Ten Miles Per Hour A complete island tour took just three hours despite the fact we never went above 10 mph—and included stops at different altitudinous viewpoints, visits to wild beaches tucked beyond mighty palm groves, and a fascinating tour around Bequia’s Old Hegg Turtle Sanctuary. There are about 5,000 Bequians – they’re of African, Scottish, Irish, French, Indian and Carib descent – and English is the main language spoken. I’d heard that these islanders have an open friendly attitude to visitors and it is true - you can experience the full and jolly brunt of it if you spend a morning or afternoon in the tiny capital Port Elizabeth. Explore my Caribbean travel stories, islands and adventures The Laid-Back Charm of Port Elizabeth Nothing much happens save for the comings and goings of the St Vincent ferries, as well as the pick-up truck taxis. There’s a small market, quite a few intriguing shops and the general laid-back buzz that somehow pervades the numerous restaurants and eateries where you can order all manner of Caribbean foods and dishes. I went for conch salad – which was excellent in a chewy kind of way. If you are enjoying this article take a look at our St Lucia post here And Port Elizabeth – like all of Bequia – is beautiful to look at. Sublimely, dreamily, enticingly, beautiful. If you wander along the Belmont Walkway, a narrow coastal path that hugs the harbour, you’ll find hidden bars like Jack’s Beach Bar where the punch is strong and the sunset views over Admiralty Bay are peerless. Another of our Caribbean posts is all about Barbados - click here to read it Exploring the Grenadines Archipelago As you sit there sipping a cooling cocktail it is easy to think that this is the best location for a holiday in the world – until you remember the happy fact that you are not tied to just one destination. Bequia is part of the St. Vincent and the Grenadines chain, a constellation of islands that includes the celebrity-haunt of Mustique and the cinematic Tobago Cays. With the Just Bequia option, you get two for your money—pairing the quiet sophistication of this island with another nearby gem. It is a reminder that in this part of the world, the journey is just as evocative as the destination. Why Bequia Feels Different There are Caribbean islands that dazzle with casinos, designer boutiques and sprawling resorts, and then there is Bequia. Here, life still seems to unfold at a gentler pace. The roads are quiet, the harbour is filled with fishing boats and graceful yachts rather than giant cruise ships, and people have time to stop for a chat. Nobody appears to be in a hurry. There is an easy friendliness that cannot be manufactured for tourists and a refreshing absence of glitz. It reminds me of the Caribbean I first discovered many years ago, before mass tourism transformed so many islands. Bequia has somehow managed to preserve its soul, and that, more than its beaches or sunshine, is what makes it so memorable. Frequently Asked Questions About Bequia Where is Bequia? Bequia is the second-largest island in the Grenadines and forms part of the Caribbean nation of Saint Vincent and the Grenadines. It lies about nine miles south of St Vincent and is known for its relaxed atmosphere, beautiful beaches and sailing culture. How do you get to Bequia? Most visitors either fly into St Vincent before catching a ferry to Port Elizabeth or arrive on a small inter-island aircraft. There are also flights from Barbados on certain routes. Is Bequia worth visiting? Absolutely. Bequia offers a quieter Caribbean experience than many better-known islands. Visitors come for the beaches, sailing, excellent restaurants, friendly locals and wonderfully relaxed pace of life. What is Bequia famous for? Bequia is famous for Friendship Beach, Admiralty Bay, Port Elizabeth, colourful fishing boats, sailing, turtle conservation, traditional boatbuilding and its laid-back Caribbean atmosphere. How many days should you spend on Bequia? Three to five days allows enough time to enjoy the beaches, explore the island, visit Port Elizabeth, take a boat trip and simply slow down into the island's easy-going rhythm. What is the best beach on Bequia? Many visitors consider Friendship Beach to be the island's finest, with soft sand, calm turquoise water and very few crowds. Princess Margaret Beach and Lower Bay are also popular choices. Is Bequia expensive? Accommodation ranges from luxury hotels to guesthouses and self-catering apartments. While some resorts are exclusive, eating in local restaurants and travelling by the island's pick-up taxis makes Bequia surprisingly affordable. When is the best time to visit Bequia? The dry season between December and May generally offers warm sunshine, lower humidity and ideal conditions for sailing, swimming and exploring the island.

St George's, another place I'd like to visit again... "Why Grenada? Because it is one of the loveliest of the Caribbean islands and offers a huge variety of things to do and see." That was the view of the Grenada travel company I was reading at the time, and I couldn't really disagree. I've been lucky enough to visit quite a few Caribbean islands, but Grenada made a particularly strong impression on me. It is mountainous, extraordinarily green and blessed with some beautiful beaches, but it has another quality that I found increasingly attractive as I travelled around: it still felt like a real Caribbean island rather than a place that had been completely remodelled for tourists. And at the heart of it all is St George's, Grenada's capital. St George's from across the bay It is a colourful, steep-sided little city wrapped around a beautiful natural harbour, with old buildings, busy streets, a lively market and the deep blue Caribbean beyond. I remember it as a place with genuine character. And, having recently revisited my memories of Grenada while updating my main Grenada travel guide, I realised that St George's deserved an article of its own. A tropical beach near St George's, St George's, Grenada: a first impression My first impression was that St George's was busy. Not unpleasantly busy. Just properly alive. The town climbs dramatically around the harbour, with streets that seem to have been built according to the contours of the hills rather than any sort of sensible town-planning manual. You walk uphill. Then downhill. Then uphill again. And eventually you discover that the best views are generally obtained by going still further uphill. It is a town where you should forget about trying to see everything in a hurry. Wander. Look at the buildings. Watch the boats coming and going. Listen to the conversations around you. And, above all, don't be frightened of getting slightly lost. That's when St George's becomes most interesting. Travel writer Martin Hesp in St George's, The Carenage: the heart of St George's The great natural feature of St George's is its Carenage, the horseshoe-shaped harbour around which much of the town has developed. It is one of the most attractive waterfronts I've encountered in the Caribbean. Fishing boats and yachts sit alongside working harbour activity, while restaurants, shops and old buildings line the waterfront. The combination is important. This isn't simply a pretty marina designed for visitors. The harbour remains part of the working life of the capital. And above it, the hills rise steeply, covered with houses and tropical vegetation. It is the sort of view that makes you reach for the camera even when you've already taken far too many photographs. St George's from the hotel area The market in St George's The market was one of the places I particularly enjoyed. My original notes described it as frenetic, loud and slightly anarchic. That still seems about right. There is a world of difference between wandering through a Caribbean market and buying a supposedly "local" souvenir in an air-conditioned cruise terminal. At the market, you are confronted with the real stuff. Fruit. Vegetables. Spices. Local produce. People talking. People selling. People buying. Journalist Martin Hesp enjoying a roti with locals in St George's market And, occasionally, people trying to persuade you that you really do need whatever it is they're selling. I like markets because they provide a glimpse of ordinary life. You aren't simply looking at Grenada. You're seeing Grenadians getting on with their day. A taste of Caribbean life One of the things that struck me about St George's was how easily the town could move between tourist destination and ordinary Caribbean community. A cruise ship might be in the harbour and visitors might be wandering around looking for souvenirs, but just a few streets away the atmosphere changes. People are going about their business. Cars squeeze through narrow streets. Shops open onto pavements. Children head home from school. And somebody somewhere is inevitably cooking something that smells considerably better than whatever you were planning to eat. That mixture of tourism and everyday life is part of the reason I liked Grenada. It never felt entirely like a stage set. The steep streets of St George's St George's is not a town for anyone determined to avoid hills. The capital's steep streets are one of its defining characteristics. The buildings climb the slopes around the harbour and, from higher up, the views become increasingly spectacular. It is worth taking your time because some of the best photographs are obtained simply by turning around. A colourful building. A glimpse of the harbour. A fishing boat in the distance. The Caribbean shining beyond the rooftops. Then you realise you've walked considerably further uphill than you intended. The good news is that eventually you have to walk down again. The forts above St George's The elevated position of St George's made it strategically important, and the fortifications above the town provide a fascinating reminder of Grenada's complicated colonial history. Fort George sits above the Carenage and offers superb views across the harbour and the town. Further away is Fort Frederick, built by the French and later completed by the British. It stands around 800 feet above sea level and provides remarkable panoramic views across St George's and the surrounding landscape. This is one of those places where the history and the scenery work together. You go for the view. You stay because you're suddenly interested in how the island came to be fought over by European powers. Grenada's history includes French and British colonial rule, slavery and emancipation, independence and the extraordinary political events that culminated in the US-led intervention of 1983. That history can sometimes be reduced to a paragraph in a guidebook. It deserves rather more than that. Grand Anse and the view towards St George's One of the best ways to appreciate St George's is actually to leave it. From Grand Anse Beach, the capital can be seen across the water at the head of the bay. I stayed at Blue Horizons Garden Resort during my Grenada trip, on the hillside behind Grand Anse. The resort was surrounded by tropical gardens and offered a much more relaxed experience than some of the large beachfront properties. From there, St George's looked particularly beautiful. The capital appeared almost improbably colourful against the green hills, with the blue Caribbean stretching beyond it. It was one of those views that made me understand why Grenada had made such an impression. Jetty and bars near Grand Anse Beach Exploring Grenada beyond the capital One of the great advantages of St George's is that it makes an excellent base for exploring the rest of Grenada. During my visit, Arnold Hopkin of Blue Horizons helped us put together an itinerary and we headed off in a four-wheel-drive to explore the island. And what an island it is. Within a relatively short distance you can go from the Caribbean coast into thick rainforest and mountainous country. There are waterfalls, Grand Etang, spice plantations, cocoa estates, fishing villages and beaches. This is one reason I wouldn't recommend spending an entire Grenada holiday inside a resort. Get out. Hire a car. Take a tour. Find a local guide. See what is around the next corner. You may discover that the journey is every bit as memorable as the destination. A remote beach on Grenada's eastern shore Grenada, the Spice Isle Grenada's nickname — the Spice Isle — isn't just a clever tourism slogan. Nutmeg and mace have long been important parts of the island's agricultural identity, alongside cocoa and other tropical crops. I remember visiting De La Grenade and learning about the remarkable nutmeg fruit itself. The fleshy material surrounding the nut and mace, which might otherwise be discarded, can be turned into products such as syrup. It's a small example of something I particularly like about travel. You learn something you didn't know. Then you start looking at a familiar ingredient in a completely different way. Grenada's agricultural heritage is one of the reasons the island has such a distinctive food culture. A fresh nutmeg opened in Grenada A capital with a complicated history It would be easy to look at the photographs of St George's and think only about the pretty buildings and beautiful harbour. But Grenada's history is complicated. The island changed hands between France and Britain, developed a plantation economy based on enslaved labour, eventually achieved independence and then went through a turbulent political period in the twentieth century. The US intervention of 1983 is still part of the country's modern history, although for today's visitor it is obviously not something that dominates everyday life. What I find interesting is how these layers of history remain visible without turning St George's into some sort of open-air museum. It is a living capital. People work here. They shop here. They go to school here. They live here. The history is simply part of the backdrop. Lonely empty beach on the east coast of Grenada Is St George's worth visiting? Very definitely. If you're staying in Grenada, I wouldn't spend the whole time on Grand Anse Beach. Give St George's at least half a day, and preferably longer. Walk around the Carenage. Visit the market. Climb the streets. Look at the old buildings. Explore the forts. Stop for something to eat. And then sit somewhere with a view and watch the harbour. The capital isn't huge, and that's part of its attraction. You don't need a complicated itinerary. You simply need time. Would I go back? Yes. That was the thought that prompted me to revisit this old article in the first place. There are places you visit and immediately forget. There are others that remain somewhere in the back of your mind. St George's is one of the latter. Perhaps it is the colour. Perhaps it's the harbour. Perhaps it's the steep streets and the hills covered in houses. Perhaps it's the market and the people. Or perhaps it's simply the feeling that, despite the growth of Caribbean tourism, Grenada had somehow managed to retain its own personality. Whatever the reason, I'd happily go back. And next time I might even try walking up those hills without stopping quite so often. Visiting St George's today Grenada has inevitably changed since my visit. The island's tourism industry has grown and the capital continues to be an important centre for visitors arriving by air and cruise ship. But St George's remains Grenada's administrative, commercial and institutional centre, and the surrounding parish is the country's most populous. If you're hiring a car, remember that visitors need a Grenadian driving permit. These can be obtained through the police station on the Carenage, while many rental companies can arrange the permit for you. And if you're exploring on foot, wear sensible shoes. I mention this partly as practical advice. And partly because I have now admitted to you how steep St George's actually is. Lake in the rain forest in Grenada Frequently asked questions about St George's, Grenada Is St George's worth visiting? Yes. St George's is one of the most atmospheric small capitals in the Caribbean, with its harbour, steep streets, market, historic buildings and forts. What is St George's famous for? St George's is famous for its beautiful Carenage harbour, colourful buildings, historic forts, market and position as the capital of Grenada. What can you do in St George's, Grenada? You can explore the Carenage, visit the market, walk through the old streets, visit Fort George and Fort Frederick, enjoy views over the harbour and discover the town's history. How long do you need in St George's? A few hours will allow you to see the main sights, but I would recommend allowing at least half a day if you want to explore at a relaxed pace. Is St George's walkable? The central part of St George's is very walkable, but it is extremely hilly. Comfortable shoes are advisable. Where is St George's in Grenada? St George's is on the south-west coast of Grenada, surrounding the sheltered Carenage harbour and facing towards Grand Anse across the bay. What is Grenada known for? Grenada is known as the Spice Isle because of its long association with nutmeg, mace and other spices. It is also known for Grand Anse Beach, rainforest, waterfalls, cocoa, rum and the capital St George's. More about Grenada I've written a much longer Grenada travel guide covering the island's beaches, rainforest, waterfalls, spices, cocoa, rum and its other islands, Carriacou and Petite Martinique. And if you're interested in my other Caribbean travels, I've gathered them together in my Caribbean Travel: Islands, Beaches, Food and Adventures hub.

It’s pouring with rain here in South West England and, for a moment, I find myself dreaming of the Caribbean. Grenada comes to mind. It is a long time since I was there, although I remember seeing the island one fine day not that long ago from afar. But the memories remain unusually vivid because Grenada is one of those Caribbean islands that seems to offer rather more than beaches and sunshine. It has the beaches you expect from a Caribbean holiday, particularly beautiful Grand Anse, but there is much more to Grenada travel than lying on the sand. It is spectacularly green, mountainous and fragrant with spices. There are rainforest waterfalls, old forts, fishing villages, cocoa plantations, rum distilleries and, of course, Grand Anse — one of those beaches that looks almost suspiciously perfect. But what I particularly remember about Grenada is that it felt like a real place rather than a resort manufactured for visitors. That may be the greatest attraction of all. Why Grenada feels different Grenada is sometimes called the Spice Isle, and the name makes perfect sense once you start travelling around it. Nutmeg, mace, cinnamon, cocoa and other tropical crops have long been part of the island's agricultural life. But this isn't simply something preserved for tourists to look at. You can still encounter the farms, processors, chocolate makers, distillers and local businesses that make the island's food culture so distinctive. And then there is the landscape. I've written about a number of Caribbean islands over the years — you can explore my Caribbean travel stories here. St George's, Grenada, in the early 2000s The south of the island is where much of the visitor activity is concentrated, particularly around Grand Anse and the capital, St George's. But head inland and the roads climb rapidly into thick rainforest, while the north and east feel considerably quieter and more rural. That contrast makes Grenada particularly rewarding if, like me, you enjoy hiring a car and simply seeing where the road takes you. Grand Anse: Grenada's great beach Grand Anse is the obvious place to start. It is a long sweep of pale sand on the south-west coast, backed by hotels, restaurants and beach businesses but still sufficiently spacious to avoid feeling like a single enormous resort. When I visited, I was staying at Blue Horizons Garden Resort, set among tropical gardens on the hillside behind the beach. It was a very different experience from staying directly on the sand, but I loved the combination of gardens, birds, hillside views and the easy access to the sea. And I did manage one memorable meal at the beachside restaurant of the much grander Spice Island Beach Resort. Grand Anse is also perfectly positioned for exploring St George's, which lies around the headland. Travel writer Martin Hesp at St George's, Grenada St George's: one of the Caribbean's great little capitals St George's is a town I would strongly recommend exploring rather than simply looking at from the deck of a cruise ship. The red roofs, steep streets and horseshoe-shaped Carenage give it an immediately recognisable appearance. A couple of local people in th central market, St George's, Grenada It is busy, colourful and sometimes slightly chaotic — in other words, it feels alive. I remember wandering through the market and being shown where I could buy a freshly made roti, a Caribbean curry-filled flatbread. The woman selling it even let me sit in her seat while I ate and somehow managed to keep the more persistent hawkers away from me. That is the sort of encounter that stays with you. Martin Hesp enjoys a roti with locals in St George's central market, The town also has museums and historic buildings worth seeking out, while the old forts above St George's provide some of the best views across the harbour and surrounding coastline. Today, St George's remains one of the essential stops on any first visit to Grenada. Into Grenada's rainforest After a couple of days acclimatising around Grand Anse, we headed north in a four-wheel-drive hire car. Grenada is not enormous, but its mountainous interior makes it feel much larger once you leave the south-west. One of our journeys involved hiring a local guide and walking into the rainforest to find a waterfall. It was hot. It was sweaty. And it was absolutely fascinating. Also check our post on Bequia: The Green Jewel of the Grenadines The vegetation seemed to become more luxuriant with every step, until the whole experience felt rather like taking a near-vertical stroll through a tropical version of Kew Gardens. Grenada has numerous waterfalls, including Annandale, Seven Sisters, Concord and Royal Mount Carmel, while the mountainous interior around Grand Etang is one of the island's great natural attractions. The point isn't simply to tick off a waterfall. It is to experience the extraordinary change in landscape that takes place when you leave the beaches behind. Grand Etang and the green heart of Grenada We eventually crossed the central mountain range through the Grand Etang Forest Reserve. At around 2,500 feet above sea level, I rather naively expected the temperature to become distinctly cooler. It didn't. This is still the Caribbean. But the forest was magnificent, and the volcanic landscape gives the interior a completely different character from the coast. Grand Etang Lake sits among the mountains and rainforest, and the surrounding area is an excellent reminder that Grenada is much more than a beach destination. If you enjoy walking, wildlife and dramatic scenery, this is the side of the island that deserves time. Grand Etang Lake sits among the mountains and rainforest The Spice Isle: nutmeg, cocoa and rum Grenada's food story is one of the reasons I find the island so appealing. The island's famous nutmeg industry suffered enormous damage during Hurricane Ivan in 2004, but agriculture has remained an important part of Grenadian life. I remember visiting places where the processing of spices was still a very hands-on affair. One particularly interesting stop was De La Grenade, where I learned more about the nutmeg fruit itself — including the fact that the fleshy material surrounding the nut and mace needn't simply be thrown away. It can be turned into products such as syrup. That sort of ingenuity is much more interesting to me than a sanitised tourist display. Grenada's cocoa industry is equally fascinating, and today visitors can explore working estates and chocolate producers as part of the island's growing food tourism scene. Then there is rum. A visit to a traditional distillery such as River Antoine offers a glimpse of an altogether older Caribbean industrial tradition, with its historic water-powered machinery still central to production. This is one of those places where the story is every bit as interesting as the drink. We also have a St Lucia Travel Guide: The Emerald Jewel of the Caribbean Petite Anse: my northern Grenada memory Eventually our journey took us to the far north of the island and to the lovely Petite Anse resort. The wild beach at Petite Anse It had been developed by an English couple, Philip and Annie Clift, and I remember being completely seduced by the setting. The hotel sat among tropical gardens with sweeping views across the Caribbean towards Carriacou and the Grenadines. Interior of the hotel at Petite Anse What can I say about it? Well, put it like this: when my novel writing finally pays dividends with some kind of Hollywood deal — in my dreams — Petite Anse is the sort of place where I imagine escaping when the British winter becomes too cold and wearisome. The views. The style. The sounds of the rainforest. The crash of the warm sea. The cooling, scented inter-island breeze. Some places simply get under your skin. A note for today's traveller: this is a memory of my visit rather than a current hotel review, so check the present-day status of any accommodation before making plans. See our post on Bountiful Barbados as Seen From the Classic Cobbler's Cove The lounge at Petite Anse Sauteurs and the north of Grenada On our way back south we passed through Sauteurs, a small town at the northern end of the island. The area is associated with the tragic history of the indigenous Carib people, and the dramatic cliffs around Sauteurs are a reminder that Grenada's story did not begin with European colonisation or the arrival of tourism. Evening on the beach at Sauteurs in the north of Grenada The island has a complicated history involving indigenous peoples, French and British rule, slavery, independence and the political upheavals of the twentieth century. That history is worth understanding because it adds another dimension to what otherwise might appear to be simply a beautiful tropical island. Check out our post on a very special Caribbean island - Discover Your Own Treasure Island: A Getaway to Petit St Vincent The beach at Petit Anse Grenada's other islands: Carriacou and Petite Martinique One thing I would emphasise more strongly today than I did when I originally wrote this article is that Grenada is not just one island. The country consists of Grenada itself, Carriacou and Petite Martinique. Carriacou has a distinctly different atmosphere from the main island, with places such as Hillsborough and Tyrell Bay, quieter beaches and a remarkable tradition of wooden boatbuilding. Petite Martinique is smaller again and considerably more low-key. See our post on Martinique: Volcanoes, Rhum Agricole, and French Caribbean Soul Both islands suffered badly from Hurricane Beryl in 2024, particularly Carriacou and Petite Martinique, and their recovery is an important part of the more recent Grenadian story. For today's visitor, I would regard Carriacou as a destination in its own right rather than something to squeeze into a hurried day trip. Allowing a couple of nights makes far more sense if your schedule permits. It is another reason why Grenada works so well for travellers who like to explore rather than simply stay beside a swimming pool. See our post on The "Friendly Isle" of St Martin in the Caribbean Resort near St George, Is Grenada still worth visiting? Absolutely. In fact, the thing that attracted me to Grenada all those years ago remains the thing I like most about it. It feels varied. You can spend the morning swimming at Grand Anse, wander around St George's in the afternoon, drive into the rainforest the following day and then find yourself eating chocolate or visiting a rum distillery before sunset. The island has become more developed since my visit, and tourism is clearly growing. There are more luxury hotels and more sophisticated visitor experiences than there once were. But Grenada has not lost the combination of landscape, agriculture, food, history and everyday Caribbean life that made such an impression on me. And that, rather than simply the sunshine, is why I would recommend it. Frequently asked questions about Grenada What is Grenada famous for? Grenada is best known as the Spice Isle because of its long association with nutmeg, mace and other spices. It is also famous for Grand Anse Beach, its rainforest and waterfalls, St George's, cocoa and chocolate, traditional rum production and excellent diving. Is Grenada good for a first Caribbean holiday? Yes. Grenada is small enough to explore relatively easily but varied enough to offer beaches, mountains, rainforest, history, food and culture. It is particularly good for travellers who want more than an all-inclusive beach holiday. What is the best beach in Grenada? Grand Anse is the island's best-known beach and one of its major attractions. It combines a beautiful long sweep of sand with easy access to accommodation, restaurants and other facilities. Is Grenada just a beach destination? Definitely not. The mountainous interior, Grand Etang, rainforest walks, waterfalls, spice and cocoa estates, rum distilleries and historic St George's are all reasons to leave the beach. Can you visit Carriacou as part of a Grenada holiday? Yes. Carriacou is part of the country of Grenada and can be reached from the main island by sea or air. I would allow at least two or three nights if you want to experience it properly rather than rushing through on a day trip. When is the best time to visit Grenada? The drier months from roughly January to May are generally the most reliable for sunshine, although Grenada can be visited throughout the year. The wetter months bring greener landscapes but also require greater awareness of tropical weather and hurricanes. Why is Grenada called the Spice Isle? Because spices — particularly nutmeg and mace — have played an important role in Grenada's agriculture and identity for generations. Cocoa, cinnamon and other crops also contribute to the island's distinctive food culture. My Grenada I first went to Grenada because I wanted to see another side of the Caribbean. I found beaches, certainly. But I also found rainforest, waterfalls, spices, chocolate, rum, steep streets, little fishing villages, extraordinary views and people who were prepared to stop and talk. That is what I remember. And perhaps that is why, on a wet day in Somerset, Grenada still has the ability to make me look out of the window and start dreaming. See our article on a very remarkable Caribbean isle - Nothing Normal About Norman Island

Most guides to this part of California treat it as one long tasting room, a string of vineyards to work through, then a hotel back in Santa Rosa at the end of the day. Sonoma County holds more than that within a short drive: a historic plaza set around a Spanish mission, an old-growth redwood grove twenty minutes from the nearest vines, and a coastline that most first-time visitors never see. Wine is part of the picture here, not the whole of it. A Valley Made for Slow Mornings Several operators run early-morning balloon flights over Sonoma County, lifting off while the valley is still and the vineyard rows below have barely started the day. Landing comes an hour or so later, well ahead of the first tasting room opening its doors, which leaves a morning with nowhere in particular to be. Sonoma's back roads, Highway 12 and Arnold Drive among them, run narrow and low through oak woodland between one small town and the next, made for a slower kind of driving than the four-lane routes further south. Where a Luxury RV Actually Helps Winery parking lots here fit cars and the occasional van, not the tour buses that work the busier stretches of Napa. A luxury RV that uses a Mercedes Sprinter chassis is much easier to place on narrow roads and in smaller lots than a large Class A coach. It also shortens the distance between the last stop of the day and somewhere to sleep: for someone who wants to be close to the valley overnight, a campground a few miles away can make more sense than driving back to a hotel in town. What a Class B Motorhome Means Here For readers who haven't come across the term, a Class B motorhome is one of the smallest fully self-contained motorhome categories: a kitchen, a bathroom, and fresh and grey water tanks fitted into one vehicle closer in size to a large van than to the bus-bodied coaches most people picture. "Fully self-contained" is what matters at a campground like Sugarloaf Ridge, which has no hookups: water and a working stove come along for the night rather than depending on a site that has them. The Plaza, the Mission and the Redwoods Away from the vineyards and the valley roads, the town at the centre of the county carries more history than a wine list suggests. Mariano Guadalupe Vallejo laid out Sonoma Plaza in 1835. It remains the largest plaza of its kind in California and still the town's focal point. Mission San Francisco Solano de Sonoma sits at one corner, the twenty-first and last of the California missions, founded in 1823. The plaza carries a heavier piece of history too: the 1846 Bear Flag Revolt, which briefly declared California an independent republic, started here. A half-hour drive northwest, Armstrong Redwoods State Natural Reserve holds old-growth trees that were already centuries old when Vallejo laid out the square, a reminder that this part of California was never only about grapes. When the Valley Gives Way to the Pacific About an hour northwest of the plaza, the vineyards give way to the coast. The drive out passes redwoods, cliffs, and produce stands on the way to Bodega Bay, a working harbour town centred on its fishing fleet rather than wine, or further north to Jenner, where the Russian River meets the sea near Fort Ross State Historic Park. The air runs cooler out there and the fog sits thicker, a different Sonoma from the one in the tasting rooms. Healdsburg's Square and a Different Kind of Wine Country Healdsburg sits further up the valley around its own square, smaller than Sonoma's but ringed with restaurants that draw on what the surrounding farms produce that week rather than a fixed menu. On Saturday mornings, the Healdsburg Farmers Market fills the Foley Family Community Pavilion a short walk from the square, with produce, cheese, and other local goods on the tables from spring through the end of the year. Where to Spend the Night Sugarloaf Ridge State Park, seven miles east of Santa Rosa near Kenwood, takes RVs up to thirty feet, well within reach of most Class B coaches, though there are no hookups at the campground and reservations run through Reserve California up to six months out. Waking up there means a short drive back down into the valley rather than a long one in from Santa Rosa or Napa. A Region Worth More Than a Tasting List By the time the balloon lands, the market stalls close for the day, and fog settles back over Sugarloaf Ridge for the night, wine turns out to be one stop on a longer list, not the whole of the trip. This is a contributed article....