Search Results

Dulverton "Hunting, hunting, hunting," said a local councillor once when I asked him what I could write about Dulverton. Back in Lordy Holcombe's day the answer could have been: "Poaching, poaching, poaching." But you get the underlying message - Dulverton is surrounded by deer, deer, deer.  Exmoor is home to England's last large herd of wild red deer and Dulverton is capital of the hills. As such, deer - and the killing of deer, legal or otherwise - has been the town's central theme for centuries. It still is, despite the so-called hunting ban. No town in Europe is so bound up with venery. You get some clue of this when you visit - half the vehicles parked are four-wheel drives and three-quarters of all the other cars are splattered in red Exmoor mud. Dulverton is the sort of place where folk come in from the hills. A town of wellington boots and fresh air.  The image of the stag and its antlers seems to be stamped everywhere. It is even the logo of the Exmoor National Park Authority, which has its headquarters in town. Lordy Holcombe, by the way, was the man who put deer poaching on the map. Lordy lived in Dulverton during the reign of Queen Victoria and was a character - as anyone who has read his book, The Autobiography of an Exmoor Poacher (reprinted by Halsgrove - on sale at £14.95) – will know.  Lordy was candid about his calling: "I did not take to poaching as a means of livelihood, or, at least, as a means of livelihood solely. I liked poaching; I loved poaching; I was never so happy as when I was poaching. You see, it was in my blood. I was a born poacher and a born rogue." For anyone who doesn't know Dulverton, you must imagine a small town situated on the banks of a fast-flowing river. All around to the south, west and north are steep woods and hills. Only to the south-east do the inclines subside into the contours of a softer, more rolling nature. In that direction lies Pixton Park, one of the great demesnes to rule the roost in this Somerset-Devon border region. The town's main-street begins where a multi-arched bridge crosses the Barle. To the left as you cross you will see Exmoor House - now home to the Exmoor National Park Authority but was once a grim workhouse where the poor of the hills ended their miserable days.  Ahead, the main-street climbs away from the river, introducing you to an array of interesting shops. A few yards up the road splits in two - fork-left and you will see the famous steps of the Town Hall and, at the far end on the hillside, there'll be splendid All Saints Church. Not quite so splendid as it was, alas. It was somewhat drastically restored in 1855 when it lost its gallery, box pews, and 15th century rood screen. Dulverton is surrounded by pleasant walks - just as it is surrounded by history. Iron age forts seem to be in abundance with Oldberry Castle, Mounsey Castle and Brewer's Castle all relatively close by. Then there's what's left of Norman Bury Castle not far to the east and the remains of Barlynch Priory a mile or so up the Exe Valley. Dunster Dunster is, arguably, doyen of the Westcountry’s tourism honey-pots. Point your camera anywhere in the picturesque village, and you'll capture a classic shot. The famous Yarn Market, which dominates the main street, must be one of the most photographed structures in the region. People have been admiring Dunster for a long time. In 1823 William Hazlitt recalled: "Eyeing it wistfully as it lay below us, contrasted with the woody scene around, it looked as clear, as pure, as embrowned and ideal as any landscape I have seen since..." Just over a century ago Mrs Cecil Frances Alexander was so impressed that she sat down on Grabbist, the steep shoulder of hill that is the backdrop of the village, and wrote the famous hymn 'All Things Bright and Beautiful'. Dunster is as historic as it is pretty. It is, of course, dominated by its castle. Everywhere you go - there it is, perched upon its knoll. There's been some sort of fort on the Tor since 1067 - and the people up there have held sway for the best part of a thousand years. The Luttrell family gave the castle to the National Trust in 1976 after owning it for many centuries. The Luttrells had a good name as far as overlords go, but naturally they had the odd run-in with the villagers. All sorts of stories exist, but my favourite is the one about Dunster's own version of 'Lady Godiva'. Lady Elizabeth de Mohun, a member of the family that built the original castle, decided the family should show a little more largesse and begged her husband to give some land to the commoners. He told her that he'd give them whatever land she could ride around at dawn. There was only one catch: she had to go naked. She did just that, but the village-folk are said to have been so grateful, they averted their eyes. It's just one yarn in a history rich in legend and anecdote. A veritable pageant of the past has rolled along under the castle walls. Soldiers from Agincourt have been called to serve the Mohuns; mediaeval masons have hammered at the soft sandstone to build the huge church and priory; Benedictine monks have filed silently past the old Nunnery; mariners who used the vanished port called Dunster Haven, have carved their footprints in the church's lead roof; Royalist and Parliamentarian soldiers have besieged and been besieged; even Charles II took refuge here as a young prince... So picturesque and historic Dunster has become a honey-pot for tourists. But the wonderful thing about the place is that the hordes of visitors have not ruined it - you can still enjoy the scenery and architecture and soak up its wonderful atmosphere of antiquity. Lynton and Lynmouth There's no other coastline like it. From Porlock to Combe Martin, Exmoor shoulders her great flanks to the sea. The tallest sea cliffs in England, rising almost 1,000 feet, make it one of the most inhospitable littorals in the land - and yet, in the middle of all this, there is a harbour.  A tiny, brave little haven that has witnessed both life-crushing disaster and life-saving courage and fortitude. A port so picturesque that it inspired sweet words to pour forth from the pens of poets like Wordsworth, Coleridge, Southey and Shelley. Lynmouth - the place where Exmoor drops her guard. The boulder-strewn haven where the great hills yield to the sea so that they can rid themselves of water - the life-blood that has tumbled and torn its way down a hundred rivulets and ravines. Even its name gives us a clue to the fate of the place. Llynna comes from the Anglo-Saxon and means torrent - so that Lynmouth is the 'town on the torrent'. In Lynmouth's case the day of reckoning came on August 15th 1952, when more than 90 million tons of water cascaded down the steep narrow valleys towards the small harbour village causing death and devastation as it went. In all, 34 people lost their lives that black night.  Today, most people's initial view of Lynmouth is from high above the North Devon Foreland near the hamlet of Countisbury. The full vista of Lynmouth Bay suddenly opens up and the motorist is greeted by one of the most breathtaking surprises to be experienced anywhere on English roads. No wonder the Victorians called this "Little Switzerland". The only flat thing here is the sea.  All other elements within the panorama are on the perpendicular. It is a place of great romance – you only have to talk to one of the local boatmen to know it. Matthew Oxenham once told me this about his family’s salty history: "We've always been linked with the sea in some way. 600 years ago my ancestor John Oxenham was hung by the Spanish for being a privateer. Privateer mind, not pirate. He had a license. "My grandfather had the Lily which was the last boat to trade out of here. She was a wonderful old ketch that traded in coal and pit-props. And then my father operated packet-boats which were so important to the village when a lot of steamers used to come to Lynmouth. There was a time when that was the main way of getting here, but I still use the packets to collect passengers off the Balmoral when she comes." Matthew went on to tell me all sorts of fascinating titbits - such as the fact that local men would to play cricket out at sea on an extensive sandbar that used to dry out at low tides but which has now been committed to the deep thanks to commercial extraction.  However, all these salty tales pale into insignificance compared to the "Overland Launch" when coxswain Jack Crocombe with his crew and many helpers dragged their lifeboat Louisa across the moors to Porlock to rescue the stricken Forrest Hall in January 1899. The famous deed has been described as: "Exmoor's contribution to a national roll of notable deeds..."  You can wave goodbye to the boats at Lynmouth by travelling vertically upwards. The funicular cliff railway provides visitors with one of the best rides to be found anywhere in the West Country – and at the top you will find yourself in the pleasant little town of Lynton, which is a terrific starting point for countless wonderful walks. To read about our Exmoor walks click here

Discover the Enchanting Valley of Rocks: A Walk Through History and Natural Beauty ⛰️✨ What can one say about the Valley of Rocks that has not been said before? This mystical landscape in North Devon has inspired countless visitors over the centuries. The poet Coleridge referred to the "commotion of the elements" here, while William and Dorothy Wordsworth called it "The Valley of Stones." R.D. Blackmore immortalized it as the setting for Mother Melldrum's cave in Lorna Doone, but it’s Robert Southey's poetic words that truly capture its essence: "The palace of pre-Adamite kings," containing "the very bones and skeleton of the earth." (To see more Exmoor walks click here ) The Valley of Rocks is a place where history, myth, and natural beauty converge. Its towering rock formations, jagged cliffs, and the ever-changing sky above make it a true gem of the West Country. It's no wonder poets and writers have been inspired by this dramatic landscape, where the raw beauty of nature feels almost timeless. Whether you're here for the literary connections or simply for the stunning scenery, the Valley of Rocks promises an unforgettable experience. A Journey to the Valley of Pre-Adamite Kings ⚡️ As I found myself in Lynton, having brought my son to play for the local football team, I decided to explore this timeless valley while the match unfolded. The Valley of Rocks, with its dramatic landscape, offers numerous public rights of way—the challenge lies in choosing which one to take. A footpath behind the football pitch caught my eye, one I’d never walked before, so I set off along its steep, perpendicular course. To find the path, I walked a hundred yards or so from the playing field towards the Valley of Rocks, turned left, and took an unofficial track past Lynton's overflow cemetery. Above the gravestones, the climb steepened until I reached the main South Cleave path issuing from southern Lynton. As I climbed further, I reached a scenic bend high above the valley, and from there, I could survey both Lynton and the iconic Valley of Rocks. This path offers one of the West Country's most awe-inspiring aerial views—all while keeping your feet firmly on terra firma. The feeling of standing at that height, with the valley stretching out below, is something hard to describe. The air is crisp, the wind is invigorating, and the panoramic views make you feel like you're on top of the world. It's moments like these that remind us why we venture out into nature—to find a sense of wonder and connection that is often missing in our daily lives. A View Like No Other 🛩️ As you round the corner, you’re greeted by a bird’s-eye view of the world's most dramatically positioned cricket pitch. Perched above Lynton, this wicket is one of the most photographed in England, second only to Lord's. The Valley of Rocks itself is unusual; it has no watercourse and runs parallel to the sea, rather than directly towards it. It’s believed that this valley once formed the main course for the Lyn rivers when sea levels were much higher. Today, the valley's floor sits some 500 feet above the current sea level. It’s easy to imagine the ancient waves and rivers carving their path through this land, giving rise to the mysterious valley we see today. One can't help but ponder if, when the next ice cap melts, the pre-Adamite kings might be awakened by saltwater once more. The geology of the Valley of Rocks is fascinating, with its layers of sandstone and quartzite revealing the story of millions of years of Earth's history. The valley's rock formations have been shaped by the forces of wind and weather, giving them their unique, almost otherworldly appearance. As you explore, it's easy to see why the landscape has inspired so much folklore and legend—there's an undeniable sense of magic here. From Lee Abbey to the Devil’s Cheese-ring 🧀 After enjoying the spectacular view from South Cleave, I continued towards Lee Bay. To descend from the path's 1,000-foot heights, a series of zigs and zags brought me to woodland near Lee Abbey. At Six Acre Wood, there’s a choice: either head down to the abbey itself or continue through the trees into Caffyns Heanton Wood. Lee Abbey itself is a tranquil retreat, with its beautiful gardens and historic buildings providing a sense of peace and reflection. The abbey, which serves as a Christian retreat, is nestled in the valley and surrounded by lush woodland, making it a perfect place for those seeking solace in nature. As I walked through the grounds, I couldn't help but feel a sense of calm—a stark contrast to the rugged wildness of the valley above. From Lee, the toll road doubles as part of the South West Coast Path, eventually bringing me to the centre of the Valley of Rocks. On quieter days, it’s a pleasant walk, though in summer the road can become frustratingly busy. Here, I paused to pay my respects to Mother Melldrum, who is said to still lurk among the rocks of the Devil's Cheese-ring. This towering stack of stone, though dwarfed by the surrounding cliffs, is the legendary winter home of R.D. Blackmore’s old witch. The Devil's Cheese-ring is one of the valley's most iconic features—a massive stack of rock that seems to defy gravity. It's easy to see why Blackmore chose this spot for his fictional witch; there's something eerie and mysterious about the way the rocks are piled, as if placed there by some ancient force. For those brave enough to scramble up to it, the Cheese-ring offers a closer look at the valley's geological wonders and a chance to feel the raw power of nature. Practical Information for Your Adventure 🌍🚶‍♂️ Basic Hike: From Lynton, over South Cleave to Lee Abbey, and back via the toll road and Valley of Rocks paths. Recommended Map: Ordnance Survey OL9 – Exmoor. Distance & Terrain: Approximately four miles; expect steep sections. Best Time to Visit: Spring and autumn offer the best weather for hiking, with fewer crowds and cooler temperatures. What to Bring: Good walking boots, plenty of water, and a camera to capture the stunning views. Whether you're inspired by poetry, literature, or the sheer beauty of this ancient landscape, the Valley of Rocks never fails to enchant. Its combination of dramatic scenery, rich history, and peaceful spots for reflection makes it a destination that offers something for everyone. From the thrill of standing on a high cliff to the quiet beauty of Lee Abbey, every corner of the valley has a story to tell. Ready for your own adventure? The Valley of Rocks awaits, with its timeless beauty and enchanting tales. Whether you're an avid hiker, a history enthusiast, or simply someone looking to escape the hustle and bustle of everyday life, this magical place will leave you with memories to cherish. So lace up your boots, grab your map, and set off on a journey through one of North Devon's most captivating landscapes.

For centuries, we despised bogs, doing everything in our power to avoid or drain them. But increasingly, people are beginning to appreciate the value of these squelchy wet places – an idea I once witnessed at an event called Past in the Peat , part of the Festival of British Archaeology. This exhibition aimed to show not only the environmental importance of healthy peat bogs but also the rich history such landscapes contain and protect. The Secrets Within the Peat 🌍 Peat is anaerobic, meaning it seals anything within it from oxygen, preventing normal decay. Over time, exciting finds have been discovered in peat bogs, including ancient wooden trackways built across the Somerset Levels by early farmers in the 4th millennium BC. Experts now believe that Exmoor’s peat bogs, which were well-populated in Bronze Age times, may hold treasures of their own. This exhibition set the scene for a beautiful day’s walk around Simonsbath, a small settlement that might lack modern services but makes up for it with rich hiking opportunities. Go there on a sunlit summer day, and you’ll see this area of peat bogs at its very best. Setting Out from Simonsbath: A Scenic Route Along the River Barle 🌄 The River Barle flows down from the high, stark moorlands of The Chains, forming a lush, tree-lined valley as it heads toward its meeting point with the Exe River south of Dulverton. Simonsbath is situated along this river, and the surrounding landscape features a striking mix of forest and open moorland. Fact File 📍 Route : Simonsbath to Cow Castle via ridge paths north of the Barle, returning along the riverside. Recommended Map : Ordnance Survey Explorer OL9. Distance and Difficulty : Four miles, fairly easy terrain. Heading out from Simonsbath, the hike begins with a path through Birchcleave, a beautiful grove of beech trees directly to the east of the village. Instead of following the main river path, take the signposted trail to Pickedstones. This path climbs out of the woods and into open fields to the north of the Barle. From here, you proceed southeast, following the river valley from a ridge and passing the farm at Winstitchen to ascend a shoulder of land dividing the Barle from its tributary, the small and hidden White Water. (To see more Exmoor walks click here ) Reaching Cow Castle: Ancient Fort and Scenic Views 🏰 As the ridge descends, leading to the meeting of these two waterways, the path approaches Cow Castle, one of Exmoor’s most picturesque and intriguing hill-forts. Its strategic position atop a steep knoll gives it an air of impregnability, explaining why early inhabitants chose it as a defensive site. While some ramparts are still visible, it’s the site’s natural steepness that adds to its sense of mystery and beauty. Turning to follow the riverside path back to Simonsbath, you’ll pass more historical sites, including the haunting ruins of Wheal Eliza. The Industrial Past and Tragic History of Wheal Eliza ⚒️ Just before reaching Flexbarrow, you’ll see the stark remains of Wheal Eliza, a 19th-century mine where copper, manganese, and iron were once extracted. In its heyday, this lonely corner was a hive of industry, with miners sinking a 300-foot shaft and installing a large water wheel to power the pumps. For a while, it seemed the area might become an Exmoor Klondike, as 60% metallic ore was found. Encouraged by early successes, local landowner Frederic Knight even began construction on an ambitious trans-moorland railway to transport the minerals to Porlock Weir. But the venture was doomed to failure, and Wheal Eliza became a silent testament to a broken dream. Adding to its tragic allure, Wheal Eliza is also associated with the murder of young Anna Maria Burgess, whose father, William Burgess, killed her nearby and hid her body in one of the shafts. The case was recorded by Simonsbath’s first curate, Rev. William Thornton, who also acted as a detective in this remote area, where the nearest police officer was 35 miles away in Taunton. Without Thornton’s persistence, Burgess may never have been brought to justice. His chilling confession still resonates: “The child was in the way, sir – in my way and in everybody else’s way – and I thought she’d be better out of the way.” A Hike Through History This journey through Simonsbath’s peatlands offers both natural beauty and haunting stories. As you return along the river valley to Simonsbath, take a moment to reflect on the lives and dreams that played out here – some ending in glory, others in tragedy. Today, these ancient landscapes continue to hold secrets, preserved in the peat and waiting for those who venture to explore.

Discover Selworthy: A Sanctuary of Nature and Tranquility 🏞️ Home of a hundred hikes, each more picturesque, dramatic, and ruggedly rural than the next, Selworthy boasts deep, moody woods, swathes of high moorland heather, vast Exmoor panoramas, rolling vistas of Porlock's perfect vale, and wild salty glimpses of the Severn Sea. All of these wonders are on offer within just a mile or two of this extraordinary village. 🌲✨ So why not follow me up along the intricate footpaths to enjoy the breathtaking views from Selworthy Beacon, before returning past the rugged cliffs and through the deep, dark forest of evergreen oaks? (To see more Exmoor Walks click here ) Starting Your Walk in Selworthy ⛪ You can view Selworthy’s white-painted church from miles around, but it’s the car park a couple of hundred metres up the lane that offers the best starting point for this circular route. The church is far older than most of the idyllic village (mostly owned by the National Trust) that it serves. The picturesque thatched cottages, so perfectly arranged around The Green below, were established in 1810 by Sir Thomas Acland as part of a model farming commune. However, Selworthy was not a traditional village in the true sense—there never was a school, a pub, or a proper shop. Into Selworthy Combe 🌳 Just to the left of the gift shop at the top of The Green, a footpath leads north up wooded Selworthy Combe. The track splits after half a mile, and I recommend taking the right-hand fork until you reach Lady Acland’s Hut on your left. You can rest in this charming chalet, surrounded by the delicate beauty of birch trees, and perhaps think of Chekhov or Turgenev—the atmosphere here feels uniquely Russian. Behind the hut, a tiny path winds up through the woods, eventually reaching another hut at the top of the hill. The Aclands were clearly fond of huts! One of the squires used to bring his children and grandchildren to the "Wind and Weather Hut" to enjoy the views and recite his favorite poetry. Inscribed on the hut is a verse by Keble: Needs no show of mountain hoary, winding shore or deepening glen; where the landscape in its glory, teaches truth to wandering men. Not entirely sure what it means, but as a wandering man myself, it struck a chord as I crossed the road to reach Selworthy Beacon. Views from Selworthy Beacon 🔭 What incredible views await you at Selworthy Beacon! From here, you can see Wales, the Bristol Channel, the Quantocks, the Brendons, and the vast expanse of Exmoor, with Dunkery looming to the south. From Selworthy Beacon, take a section of the South West Coast Path down to Hurlestone Point. To the right, a side path leads over a steep spur down past dramatic cliffs to the old Coastguard Lookout—only recommended for those with a good head for heights! Through Bossington and the Evergreen Oak Woods 🌳 Just south of Hurlestone, two paths head toward Bossington—take the higher one, which traverses above this village. Bossington is yet another picturesque, thatched Acland community mostly owned by the National Trust. The steep slope below gives the sensation of floating, almost like being in a helicopter or a hang glider. Soon, you’ll be plunged back into the woods. This section of the walk can feel especially dark due to the canopy of evergreen oaks (Ilex). In fact, this is the largest stand of Ilex in Britain, giving the forest an almost Mediterranean feel. Follow any of the myriad paths heading southeast along the hill, and eventually, you’ll find yourself back on The Green at Selworthy, ready to join the day-trippers for a well-deserved cream tea. Fact File 📌 Route: From Selworthy Green to Selworthy Beacon, down to Hurlestone Point, and back through the evergreen oak woods. Recommended Map: Ordnance Survey OL9 – Exmoor. Distance & Difficulty: 6 miles, steep in places.

Exploring the countryside is one of the greatest joys of walking. You can revisit a place you know intimately and yet find a footpath that leads you into a part of it you've never experienced before — suddenly revealing breathtaking views you never knew existed. Another enchanting aspect of walking is discovering unexpected connections: a familiar town or village approached from a completely new direction, allowing you to see it with fresh eyes. 🌲🏙 A Magical Walk Around Minehead 🏜️ Recently, I embarked on such an adventure with my daughter and her boyfriend. Our walk took us out of Minehead, across the hills that lie to the south of this beautiful seaside town. Minehead is surrounded by steep ridges: to the west lies North Hill, a favourite for walkers as it hosts the start of the South West Coast Path. (To see more Exmoor walks click here ) However, the ridge to the south offers equally spectacular hiking with views over both the coastline and the dramatic Avill Valley, stretching towards Dunkery Beacon, the highest point on Exmoor. Cher: A Quirky Starting Point 🎤 We started our walk from Minehead town centre, heading up to a location called Cher. The name may make you think of the famous singer, but it has nothing to do with her! Cher is an ancient place, rich in history, where the Minehead Hobby Horse has performed its May Day rituals for centuries. It’s a strange spectacle, and I remember watching it years ago, wondering how long it would endure in the face of modern sensibilities. From Cher, we crossed the main road and headed up the steep lane that leads to Hopcott Common. The climb soon takes you into the woods, and after a while, the road gives way to a car park where various tracks lead upwards. To reach our goal, we took the righthand paths, which brought us through an ancient beech hedge, eventually opening up onto the heaths of Hopcott Ridge. Panoramic Views Over West Somerset 🗻 Up on Hopcott Ridge, we were rewarded with magnificent views of Minehead below, as well as the entire vale of West Somerset, which stretches towards the distant Quantock Hills. Turning left, we continued along the ridge, where more and more of the vale revealed itself. On our right, we caught glimpses of the Avill Valley and the rising hills of Vinegar Hill and Gallox Hill, crowned by ancient fort ruins. The wide ridge track eventually led us to Grabbist, the famous hill that inspired Mrs. Cecil Frances Alexander to write the hymn "All Things Bright and Beautiful." Nearing Dunster, we found a steep path cutting down through the trees on Grabbist's southern slope — a challenging but rewarding descent that brought us to the outskirts of the village. Exploring Dunster: A Historic Village 🏭 Once at the foot of Grabbist, we headed towards Gallox Bridge, where my daughter had parked her car. This area offers many options to continue exploring: you can visit the ancient clapper bridge, walk along the River Avill beneath Dunster Castle, or head to the village’s main car parks. From there, you can choose between taking a bus or the West Somerset Railway back to Minehead — or extend your adventure by walking along the West Somerset Coast Path back to Minehead seafront. No matter which option you choose, this walk offers a unique and rewarding experience, showcasing unusual and dramatic views of some of the best-known spots in West Somerset. Fact File ✉️ Route : Minehead over Hopcott Common to Dunster, returning by bus, steam train, or the West Somerset Coast Path Distance : One-way walk of 4 miles; 6+ miles if returning via the coast Difficulty : Easy going on well-maintained tracks, with a steep initial climb to Hopcott 👌 Beyond the Woods, the Foresters At the base of Grabbist Hill, you’ll find the Forester Arms — a cozy local pub in Dunster with great food and drinks. Forester Arms Dunster Liking the Luttrell 🏰 In the heart of Dunster lies the famous Luttrell Arms, a historic inn offering delicious meals in a charming setting. Luttrell Arms All Ashore for the Ship Aground 🚢 If you prefer to dine back in Minehead, the Old Ship Aground near the quay is a fantastic option for lunch or a snack. The Old Ship Aground Embark on this lovely walk and discover a new perspective of West Somerset — it’s an adventure that’s sure to leave you with lasting memories. 😍🌿

A Journey Across the Remote and Empty Chains This hike was originally the idea of Dr. Nigel Stone, who at the time was Chief Executive of the Exmoor National Park Authority (ENPA). He invited me to join him to explore some of the work done to celebrate the 40th anniversary of the Two Moors Way. Britain’s Hidden Long-Distance Gem If there were a competition for Britain’s most beautiful but least known long-distance trails, the Two Moors Way would likely win. A new logo promises the trail takes walkers coast-to-coast. This walk forms part of my complete Exmoor Walking Guide Though it doesn’t officially stretch ocean-to-ocean, this fact doesn’t diminish the trail’s allure. Starting at Lynmouth on the north coast, it traverses Exmoor, Devon’s heart, and Dartmoor before ending at Ivybridge. To truly walk from sea to sea, hikers must continue on the Erme Trail for 15 miles to Wembury’s shoreline. (To see more Exmoor Walks click here ) A Missed Opportunity for Simplicity The relaunch missed a trick by not uniting these trails into a single, glorious 117-mile ocean-to-ocean route. Simplicity in storytelling matters, but regardless, significant improvements have been made to enhance the Two Moors Way. Setting Off Over High Moorlands Dr. Stone and I began our hike above Simonsbath to witness these enhancements. Utilizing a two-car approach, we parked one vehicle at Brendon Two Gates on the Simonsbath-Lynmouth road, then drove back to Prayway Head. This linear approach is perfect for group hiking, freeing walkers from the constraints of circular routes. Prayway Head: A Historic Starting Point Prayway Head overlooks the young Exe Valley. Its name likely stems from ancient travelers’ prayers before crossing the featureless Chains. This perilous trek once involved boggy, dangerous terrain. Thanks to the Exmoor Mires Project, these landscapes are being re-wetted, restoring their natural balance. Making the Two Moors Way More Passable Heading west across Dure Down, we reached Exe Head, the Exe River’s birthplace. Bags of aggregate lie ready here to improve the trail through boggy sections. These light-touch engineering projects will ensure the trail remains wild while becoming more walker-friendly. The Chains: A Sense of Prehistoric Wilderness Turning north, we descended into a dramatic coombe dividing Exe Plain from The Chains. Just a short walk from Prayway Head, this valley feels like stepping back into prehistoric Britain. Amid the steep ravine’s isolation, ancient stone walls evoke an antediluvian ambiance. Modern Solutions to Ancient Challenges Further along the trail, we observed efforts to address the damage caused by cattle. Thanks to crowdsourced funds, a helicopter delivered aggregate to improve these muddy stretches. Hoar Oak Cottage: The Capital of the Middle of Nowhere Amid this desolation stands Hoar Oak Cottage, a semi-ruined moorland home steeped in legend. Recently stabilized by the ENPA and partnering groups, it remains an evocative relic. Visitors can now explore its roofless rooms and empty windows, feeling the profound solitude of its remote history. Returning to Civilization Our hike concluded by heading east across open moorlands past Clannon Ball to Brendon Two Gates. Ideally, given time, I’d prefer to continue to Lynmouth—the true start or end of the Two Moors Way.

Embracing Long-John Weather on Exmoor It’s been long-john weather of late. That’s the best way to describe the biting chill that cuts through even the sturdiest mole-skin trousers from country clothing shops. Winter has firmly settled over Exmoor, and nowhere is it more evident than on the slopes of Dunkery Beacon. A Frosty Encounter on Dunkery Beacon Yesterday’s attempt to enjoy a brisk walk atop Dunkery Beacon quickly turned into a retreat. The late afternoon promised panoramas of wintry beauty, but the icy wind had other plans. Within seconds, we were back in the car, seeking refuge. (To see more Exmoor walk click here ) The Importance of Layers The key to braving such weather is layers. Good thermal layers can make all the difference, allowing you to stay warm without resembling the Michelin Man under heavy coats and scarves. Proper preparation transforms a chilling hike into an enjoyable adventure. Author at Dunkery Beacon Memories of Dunkery's Icy Extremes Dunkery Beacon has seen far harsher conditions. Years ago, we parked our car on Exmoor’s highest hill and walked the four miles to my parents’ home in Selworthy. After a warming dinner, my late father drove us back up the icy road at night. Unfortunately, our journey didn’t end there. The diesel in my vehicle had frozen, forcing my father to drive us home to Luxborough. The Science Behind Diesel Freezing That was the only time I’ve witnessed diesel freezing in Britain, although it’s more common in North America. There, motorists use small burners under their engines to prevent fuel from solidifying in extreme cold. Diesel can freeze around minus 12 degrees Celsius, and this experience proved how unforgiving Exmoor’s winters can be. Modern-Day Exmoor Winters More recently, I’ve driven Dunkery’s high roads in temperatures as low as minus 14 degrees Celsius. Add the wind chill, and the cold becomes brutal. Proper gear is essential for venturing out of your vehicle to explore the moors. Winter Driving Tips for the West Country If you plan to drive across West Country hills during these frigid nights, preparation is key. Layer up, ensure your vehicle is winter-ready, and always check conditions before setting out. Experience the Beauty and Challenges of Winter on Dunkery Beacon Exmoor’s rugged beauty shines in winter, but it demands respect. With the right mindset and gear, you can safely enjoy this stunning landscape, even in the harshest conditions. Stay warm and embrace the season’s unique charm.

Many years ago (more than a quarter of a century, for certain) I was up at Simonsbath in the heart of Exmoor on a bitterly cold day to meet local man and Exmoor expert, the late Stan Curtis. Here’s the video we shot with Exmoor ranger Mike Leach all that time ago. Listen out for Stan’s wonderful Exmoor accent - you won’t hear one like it often nowadays. To see more Exmoor walks, click here ...

Perfect Porlock Weir Porlock Weir is one of my favourite places in the world and I have written about it many times. As the nicest of our local seaside haunts I’ve been visiting the place since I was a small boy - and later writing many different newspaper articles based on many different subjects down there where the Exmoor hills dip to meet the sea. I popped down to the Weir this week with a spare hour to spare and walked in the rain. (To see more Exmoor Walks click here ) Porlock Marsh: Britain’s Fastest Changing Landscape And here’s an article I penned 25 years ago… It looks like a land where dinosaurs might roam, but Porlock Marsh, not far from the North Devon - Somerset border, is Britain's newest wetland and officially the country's fastest changing environment. Not long ago you'd have seen sheep and cattle grazing here. For centuries the low-lying meadows just north of the village of Porlock were protected by an immense natural shingle ridge, but storms in the late 1990s breached the pebble bank and hundreds of acres were inundated by the sea at high tide. Now the Exmoor National Park Authority has signed a management agreement with a local landowner in a bid to ensure that this extraordinary landscape will be protected as it develops and changes. How Nature Reclaimed Porlock Bay Though just how it will change, no one is sure. "We're open to the forces of nature," says the National Park's conservation officer David Lloyd. "It's a very exciting place because in Britain we're not used to seeing this sort of major landscape change. We don't know for certain how it will look in years to come. We don't really know how much bigger the breach will get." He explained how the shingle ridge used to be much further out to sea, stretching in a more-or-less straight line two miles across Porlock Bay, between Gore Point in the west and Hurlestone Point in the east. But over the years two factors altered the natural dam. Wave action pushed the ridge ever inland, causing it to curve and lengthen. At the same time the ridge became starved of its natural material. It is fed with shingle from the west in an action known as littoral drift , but the source is finite. In latter years not enough shingle was being fed to maintain the ridge—partly, it is thought, due to the development of the harbour, car park and various groynes at Porlock Weir . The Birth of a New Coastal Habitat In 1996 the first major hole appeared. Grass and trees do not take kindly to salt water and in six years the place has become a desert. A beautiful, unique and exciting desert - as I found out when I toured the area with park authority ranger Tim Parish. "It is the most incredible landscape," he said as we climbed out of his Land Rover at the end of a long and muddy lane. "And it is also a little dangerous. We don't advise people to go out along the ridge towards the breach. At spring tides in particular, it can be hazardous. People's dogs have been swept away." As we walked we could see the tortured limbs of dead trees whose roots have been cloaked in a sort of primeval slime. The meadow grass has long gone, but is being replaced by other plants like samphire. Beyond the trees a new lagoon stretches to the shingle ridge, and we could see coffee-coloured waves pumping water in from the Bristol Channel. Huge flocks of curlew and lapwing flew hither and thither in the nor-westerly gale and, out on the mud, shelduck took flight in a dazzle of black and white wings. Managing the Future of Porlock Marsh "We've had to divert the South West Coast Path, it used to run along the top of the shingle but now we've a new permissive route that passes inland of the lake," said Tim, explaining that this development was all part of the management agreement negotiated with Porlock Manor Estate. As we approached the sizeable expanse of brackish water we could see how the new environment must have come as quite a shock to local people. "Yes I think it was something of a shock and there was a great deal of discussion about the future of the place" says David Lloyd. Porlock people saw millions being spent on sea-defences at Minehead (six miles along the coast) and some of them wanted bulldozers to come and plug the breach. "But how long could you go on bulldozing the shingle and would it work anyway?" asked the conservation officer, pointing to the huge build-up of stones that is occurring under Hurlestone Point in the corner of the bay. He concluded: "What has happened here has been the result of a natural process." An Ever-Evolving Coastal Landscape In the end the authorities deemed it to be a case of fait accompli . The National Trust , which owns half the marsh, got on with the job of adapting its management of the area and now the park authority has come to an agreement over the 80 hectares which make up the other half. "We will be working on what we can do in the Marsh," says Mr Lloyd. "There are issues like people walking their dogs in the nesting season. But on the other hand we'd like to improve access - we could have things like board-walks and hides, perhaps an interpretation area. We could also develop some higher areas where birds like lapwing and redshank could nest safely." One thing is certain. With global warming threatening to raise sea levels, Porlock Marsh is set to become a permanent feature on the West Somerset coast. The poet Robert Southey described Porlock as “The End of the World” - and that was 200 years ago when the village was protected by acres of low-lying fields. Now, as the primeval swamp creeps closer to the community, his words seem to have finally come home to roost. Ada Lovelace and the Porlock Connection Keywords: Ada Lovelace, Ada Lovelace Day, Exmoor history, Ashley Combe, Porlock Weir, women in science, Charles Babbage, first computer programmer, Ada Lovelace Somerset connection I also once wrote about Lady Lovelace who used to live near the Weir…. It has been rare indeed that women have been able to enter the history books as leading lights in the world of science, technology, engineering and maths - and rarer still that such a person should be linked to a remote West Country community. But the mathematician Ada Lovelace certainly makes the cut when it comes to fame in the world of numbers and computing - and her connection with the Exmoor village of Porlock is the subject of annual celebration. Ada Lovelace Day: Celebrating Women in STEM Ada Lovelace Day , held every October, is an international celebration of the achievements of women in science, technology, engineering and maths (STEM). Lovelace, daughter of the romantic poet Lord Byron , is best known for her work on Charles Babbage’s Analytical Engine - and it was she who recognised that the contraption had many applications beyond pure numeric calculation. The World’s First Computer Programmer Ada realised the full potential of what she called a “computing machine” and because of that she is regarded as the world's first computer programmer. Augusta Ada King, Countess of Lovelace, was born in 1815 and tutored in mathematics and science – subjects often forbidden for girls at the time – at the insistence of her mother. As a teenager aged just 17, she met the mathematician Charles Babbage , inventor of the mechanical calculator, who was to become her mentor. Soon after that she was commissioned to translate a French article about Babbage’s wonder machine - and while doing so, she was able to add her own intellectual commentary upon the subject of computing. In a book called ‘She: A Celebration of 100 Renegade Women’ , author Harriet Hall explains: “She theorised that Babbage’s machine had the potential to translate music, pictures and text into digital form.” A Vision Ahead of Her Time Her notes were respected and published in 1843, but the theory within was so revolutionary that it took over a century for it to be recognised as the first computer algorithm and Lovelace as the first computer programmer. Lovelace wrote: “The Analytical Engine might act upon other things besides number, were objects found whose mutual fundamental relations could be expressed by those of the abstract science of operations... the engine might compose elaborate and scientific pieces of music of any degree of complexity or extent.” Ashley Combe: Ada Lovelace’s Porlock Retreat It was in 1835 that Ada married William King, 8th Baron King and later 1st Earl of Lovelace. They had three children: Byron, Annabella and Ralph Gordon. The family lived at Ockham Park in Surrey, but spent their honeymoon in the romantic setting of Ashley Combe , in the steep forests high above Porlock Weir . The King family owned a large West Somerset estate that included Ashley Combe, Yearnor, Culbone, Sparkhayes and Bratton near Minehead. Ashley Combe was built in 1799 as a hunting lodge and improved at great expense by Lord King in 1835 for the honeymoon. It later became a summer retreat for the couple and was continually being improved. The Secret Tunnels of Ashley Combe The family and its fortunes were apparently very much directed by Ada whose domineering was rarely opposed by William. As an engineer he was more interested in designing tunnels than running the family - a hobby which he put into practice at Ashely Combe. The house, built in the fashionable Italianate style, had a tall clock tower and extensive gardens which consisted of terraced walks, alcoves, spiral stairs and woodland trails. Beyond these were more open gardens which contained various hot-houses and decorative towers – relics of which can still be seen today. The tunnels took tradesmen from the road to the trade entrance of the big house so their carts could not be seen by its occupants. A woodland walk and steps led down to the beach where a bath-house was built into the cliff to enable Ada to bathe in privacy. A Scandalous Mind and Enduring Legacy During scientific researches on her regular visits to the Porlock family home, Ada used to visit Andrew Crosse , known as the Wizard of The Quantocks for his early experiments with electricity, and was said to have established a rather “shadowy” relationship with his son John. Indeed, Ada was not all sweetness and scientific light - she flirted with scandals, took a relaxed approach to extra-marital relationships with men and loved gambling - an addiction which led to her forming a syndicate with male friends and an ambitious attempt to create a mathematical model for successful large bets. This went disastrously wrong, leaving her deeply in debt to the syndicate. Lovelace died of cancer, aged just 36, in 1852 - but has since received a multitude of posthumous accolades. More than a century later, in 1980, the US Department of Defence named a computer language after her, and Ada Lovelace Day is celebrated every October in recognition of her groundbreaking contribution to computer technology.

Such a statement may well have been made on Exmoor 4,500 years ago. Ancient Man had a great liking for rocks – as edifices like Stonehenge and Cornwall’s Merry Maidens so magnificently prove to this day – but on Exmoor he came up against a slight problem. Rocks of any size are few and far between on the moors so the ceremonial loving locals had to make do with anything they could find – as the tiny standing stone in our picture proves. The ancient hill-fort at Countisbury The Vanishing Stones of the High Plateau It is part of an ancient stone circle situated not far from the lonely road that crosses the high plateau between Exford and Porlock . The 80-foot circle comprises ten standing stones and broken off stumps, and 11 recumbent stones. It’s believed, judging by the spacing, there would originally have been 43 stones, six feet apart – but half have either sunk in the soft peat, or been dragged off by farmers and road-menders down the centuries. Such is the lot of Exmoor’s ancient monuments. Look carefully around the moor and here and there you may find menhir-shaped stones incorporated in gateways and stonewalls – some older houses even have them in their large traditional open fireplaces. To see more EXMOOR WALKS click here From "Prairie-Busting" to Preservation After the invention of four-wheel drive tractors, things got even worse for the ancient remains. In the 1970s and 80s the Exmoor National Park Authority held emergency meetings because archaeologists were horrified to find that the micro-monoliths of the moor were being ploughed under. Thankfully, farmers no longer go in for prairie-busting activities – a number of agreements were set up which put a stop to further ploughing of the precious moorland. But who were the original denizens of the hills and why did they see fit to place vertically lodged stones in circles and in long straight rows? Such edifices are thought to have been the work of the people who lived here around about 4,500 to 5,000 years ago. These weren’t the old Mesolithic hunter-gatherers who’d dwelt here since the final vestiges of the last Ice Age, but members of the New Stone Age . Ruins at Larkbarrow in the heart of the moors The Flint Workers of Hawkcombe Head There is evidence of the Neolithic reign not far from the stone circle on Porlock Common – stroll around Hawkcombe Head  for long enough gazing intently at the turfy ground and you are very likely to come across a shard or two of flint. You may even find the odd arrow or hammerhead hewn out of the stuff. Flint does not occur naturally on Exmoor, but it was brought all the way here by the people of the New Stone Age and shaped into tools at Hawkcombe Head. The area is known as a “napping floor” – where the Stone Age people shaped raw flint into tools - and the tools made here helped the men and women of the day clear Exmoor of its primeval forests. Farming was just beginning to find its muddy feet in the West Country. It has been estimated that, using the basic stone tools of the time, it would have taken an average sized family no less than five generations to clear just half a square mile of ground. Hard work, no doubt, but they kept hacking away at the smaller trees of the hilltops and so turned the plateaus like Exmoor, Dartmoor and Bodmin Moor into the agricultural savannahs that we now call moorlands. Explore More:  If you enjoy these tales of the West Country landscape, listen to my Adventures in Journalism podcast  for deep dives into regional history. The Rise of the Beaker People This disafforestation – and the odd flint here or there – is all that’s left to bear witness to several thousand years of hard labour. Archaeologists used to believe the next step in Britain’s human evolution occurred with the arrival of the so-called “Beaker People”, but this theory is now in doubt. The Beaker Folk were given the strange name because of the shape of the pottery vessels that are often found in the round graves, otherwise known as barrows. Exmoor is rich in these sepulchral humps. You can see them from the Brendon escarpment in the east of the national park, all the way to the lonely Chains in the west. Two of the best known are Joaney How and Robin How  on the slopes of Dunkery Beacon. Magic, Ley-Lines, and Force Fields So much for the vague history – but what were the henges and stone rows for? No one knows. If they tell you they do, they are either lying or doing some wishful thinking. Over the years I’ve studied such things on the moor, I’ve come across all sorts of weird people who’ve theorised on the meaning of the stones. The Douser:  I found a man dangling a gold ring on a silken thread over the Long Stone out on the Chains, claiming he could tell "good" stones from "evil" ones. The Ley-Line Hunters:  A father and son team used copper dousing rods and maps to calculate "invisible force fields." It sounds crazy, but given that archaeologists are still uncertain how Early Man dragged the vast stones of Stonehenge from Wales to Wiltshire, they may have some sort of point. A 7,000-Year Connection The henges and rows probably had some sort of religious, sacrificial, or spiritual role. Many of Exmoor’s stone rows lead down towards springs – and some people think early man worshipped water-based gods. On the other hand, the structures may have been put in place merely to show people the way in Exmoor’s regular bouts of fog. No one knows. What we do know is that these ancient edifices remind us of who we are and where we have come from. If you find it hard to believe that we modern sophisticated people have anything to do with those early, hairy, hunter-gatherers – then you ought to know that a recent DNA survey carried out in the Cheddar area found that today’s population has nearly identical sequences to that taken from a Mesolithic skeleton found in a local cave. That man died more than 7,000 years ago and his relatives are still living in the district today. A fact worth remembering, next time you are gazing at the sepulchral stony remains on the moors.

What is that big round yellow object in the sky? That is either a strange question, or it is the most commonly-repeated joke of 2026 so far. The sun has indeed come out every now and again over recent weeks - and on numerous occasions I’ve heard people refer to the great life-giving golden orb as if it was some kind of UFO. It is certainly true that we haven’t seen much of it since autumn. But over the past week or so it has popped its head out for a few hours and we love it when it does. Walkers at the top of Dunkery Beacon Seeking the High Tops of Exmoor Up up and away… That’s my motto when a lengthy period of murk, mist and rain comes to an end. I need views. A wider horizon. I yearn panoramas and the cool keen air of the uplands. Dunkery Beacon Walk – Quick Guide Location:  Exmoor National Park, Somerset Start point:  Webber’s Post car park Height of Dunkery Beacon:  519m (1,705 ft) – the highest point on Exmoor Best for:  Panoramic views across Porlock Vale and the Bristol Channel Typical walk length:  2–6 miles depending on route Wildlife:  Red deer, Exmoor ponies and moorland birds Parking is available at Webber’s Post, from where a number of footpaths lead onto the slopes of Dunkery Beacon and the surrounding moorland. A lone hker makes their way up the northern flanks of Dunkery Beacon There are always good reasons to go out on the moors as winter gives way to spring. The high tops offer a scenic wilderness for things like profound thoughts and, to me that’s as good an excuse as any. Many years ago a tribal chieftain from a land-locked African republic came to visit my father and when we took him onto Exmoor to see the sights he beamed with delight. Seeing the wide open moors with groups of deer and wild horses dotted here and there, he said it was similar to the savannah at home. Seeing the lush tree cover in the deep river valleys, he said it reminded him of the jungle. But when we came to the edge of one of the big ridges, he burst into tears. Far below was the ocean – something he had never seen before. And to come across it in an environment that reminded him of his own land was overwhelming. Old beech trees mark the boundary between moor and fields under Dunkery Beacon The Unique Beauty of Exmoor But that is the unique beauty of Exmoor. If it had been situated in some landlocked part of the country it would have been wonderful enough – but because it is perched beside the sea there is something about the nation’s least visited national park that adds to the sense of expectation and excitement. Of course, there are swathes of Exmoor where you cannot spy the sea – but a short climb up the nearest hill will probably give you at least a hint or a glimpse of the great blue yonder. You can almost smell it when a prevailing westerly is blowing, and it is a wind that brings with it the cleanest air in all of England. There are rare lichens growing on Exmoor that, because of pollution, you will find nowhere else in Europe. Views unfold to the north as you climb Dunkery Beacon Why the Dunkery Beacon Walk Is One of the Best Walks on Exmoor But which high tops? Upon which mountain shall we wander? If in doubt about where to go on Exmoor, try Dunkery. If a walk is what you want - you can’t go wrong on the slopes of Exmoor’s highest hill. Dunkery is rich in routes. From two miles to ten, you’ll find something to suit your needs. And always - always - there will be tremendous views. I’d go as far as to suggest they are the best views in Britain. At least in the right light on the right day. There’s that gob-smacking vista over Porlock Vale to North Hill, ending vertically and dramatically at Hurlestone Point where the Vale gives way to Porlock Bay. The place is stunning. You get high heather moor with wild red deer, giving way to a patchwork of fields down in the valleys, intermingled with woods, which in turn give way to the blue sea. All in one eyeful. Plenty of other locations around the UK may have one or even two of those elements in a landscape - but nowhere else has three. Hurlestone Point and Porlock Bay lie far below Dunkery Beacon Starting Your Walk at Webber’s Post Webber’s Post is as good a place as any to park in order to explore the great National Trust owned demesne. You’ll find it if you drive up through the village of Luccombe just south of the Minehead-Porlock road. Take the signposts to Dunkery Beacon and head up the steep rap above Chapel Cross. You can see cars parked at wooded Webber's Post When the lane levels out to meet open moor, you’re at Webber’s Post. There’s a car park between the trees that enjoys spectacular views across the jungle valleys of Horner Water and the huge mass of Dunkery which, though not really a mountain with a modest altitude of 1760 feet, certainly looks impressive enough. Rain storms chase one another south of Dunkery Beacon The Mysterious “Lamb of God” of Dunkery In years gone by West Somerset folk held their big eminence in somewhat sacred regard. For centuries they believed in a supernatural phenomenon which, it was claimed, appeared up on the summit every Easter – though exactly how the Lamb of God manifested itself I’m not quite sure. The good people from the nearby villages of Cutcombe and Luccombe would march up to the beacon and watch for the apparition which appeared in the sky - and I can only presume that what they saw was something akin to the sun-dog, or parhelia, which is a sort of twin-sunset caused by ice crystals forming high in the atmosphere. Not quite as uncommon in westerly areas as you may think. The beacon at Dunkery Beacon Views from Dunkery Beacon There’s no doubt that you feel a lot closer to God up there on the summit. From here you can, on a clear day, see the Pembrokeshire Coast, the distant Cambrian Mountains, Brecon Beacons, Black Mountains, Forest of Dean, the Malverns, the southern bastions of the Cotswolds, both Severn bridges, the Mendips, Quantocks, Blackdowns, Dartmoor, Bodmin Moor and even the English Channel sparkling through what’s known as the Sidmouth Gap. That’s on a good day. The Tragic Story of the Huguenot Ladies On a bleak day it’s easier to recall the two wretched Huguenot ladies who once lived in a hovel somewhere on Dunkery’s windswept flanks. Who they were, and where they came from, remains a mystery - but it’s believed they were aristocrats who had fallen on very bad times indeed. So bad that they died of starvation in their hovel, being too proud to announce their poverty to the world. Apparently all that was found in their hilltop shelter - apart from their two withered bodies clutching one another – were the remains of the slugs and snails upon which they’d tried to exist. Author's shadow on Dunkery Beacon The Mystery of Mollie Phillips on Codsend Moor Look down over the remote vastness of Codsend Moors – the desolate empty slopes which make up the southern flanks of Dunkery - and you can almost hear the rattle of their bones. I borrow that phrase from the name of a book written by my old friend and mentor, Jack Hurley. “This featureless plain was once the centre of national attention,” wrote Jack in Rattle His Bones . “It was all to do with the gruesome end of Mollie Phillips, an Exford girl who was found dead in a bog on Codsend Moor. In 1930 - some 18 months after her disappearance - a Minehead coroner’s jury put her demise down to misadventure, declaring she’d drowned after being swallowed by the mire.” Local folk were having none of it. Mollie disappeared on September 8th 1929 - a dry September that followed a long dry summer – and those who knew the place reckoned its bogs would not have been dangerous after such a drought. Having walked the area in similar conditions, I agree - there are very few quagmires after a long hot summer. Looking over Codsend Moor towards Dunkery Beacon Ancient Settlements on Dunkery Not that I’d fancy walking over Codsend Moor in the wet weather we’ve been having recently. It was altogether more clement up here on the Dunkery range some 4,000 years ago when Britain was enjoying something of a Mediterranean climate. The big hill is dotted with the ancient enclosures and settlements of folk who were able to live so high above sea level in those times. An archaeologist with the wonderful name of Rainbird Clarke once discovered a ring of stones on the summit of Dunkery which may or may not have been the remains of some early chieftain's hut. The Haunted Cottage of Bagley Combe But it is the ruined cottage in Bagley Combe on the northern slopes of the hill that haunts my mind every bit as much as the fate of Mollie Phillips and the Huguenots. For in that deep tree-lined valley a hamlet once thrived until the plague wiped out the inhabitants - except for one. A note in my father’s dusty files reveals the following account about this remote and seldom visited place: Bagley Combe lies just behind the cattle under Dunkery Beacon “There is a ruined cottage whose derelict garden still contains flowers and some decayed outbuildings. The last inhabitant lived there alone and one day three men arrived there on a drunken frolic from Porlock. “They told the solitary man that it was known he’d been sheep stealing and that he was shortly to be arrested. He was entirely innocent of the offence, but the threat of the arrest so played upon his mind that he hanged himself. His ghost haunted the place and none would ever live there afterwards...” Walking Dunkery Today Three grim stories from one hill. However, it is difficult to remain depressed in this fresh-air zone where ocean breezes never cease to play. As I’ve said, the Dunkery range boasts some of the best walking to be found anywhere in the Westcountry – you’ll not only be treated to the aforementioned views, but you are just about guaranteed to see wild red deer. One particularly delightful right-of-way is Dicky’s Path which passes Birchanger Spring. The Healing Waters of Birchanger Spring In another of my father’s Exmoor files there’s a note about this place written by a mysterious correspondent called “Afghan”. “The water was reputed to be famous for its healing qualities and it was supposed to be warm in the winter and cold in the summer,” says Afghan. “An old man told me that when he was a lad living at Luccombe, he was paid a penny for each can full of water he brought back to the village for two old ladies." Two old ladies? Surely it couldn’t have been the Huguenots? They didn’t have any pennies. Just another of this purple headed mountain’s many mysteries. To find the answer to them and perhaps every other mystery, you could perhaps consult the Lamb of God who might be seen lurking over Dunkery at the start of next month. To see more EXMOOR WALKS click here . Martin Hesp at Dunkery Beacon during winter

Variety is the outstanding joy of Exmoor. If it had been situated in some landlocked part of the country it would have been wonderful enough – but because it is perched beside the sea there is something about the nation’s least visited national park that pushes far more buttons in the way of expectation and excitement.  To see more EXMOOR WALKS click here... Why Exmoor is one of England’s best walking landscapes Of course, there are swathes of Exmoor where you cannot spy the sea, but a short climb up the nearest hill will probably give you at least a glimpse of the great blue beyond.  You can almost smell it when one of the prevailing westerlies is blowing, and it is a wind that brings with it famously clean air. There are rare lichens growing on Exmoor that you will find nowhere else in Europe because of pollution.  It is arguable that no other place in the region lends itself so well to walking. The hills boast huge areas of open access land where you can wander wherever you wish. Because of the topography, the area is rich in circular walks, which will take you into numerous different habitats. A brave swimmer crosses lonely Pinkery Pond Exmoor Walks – Quick Guide Location: Exmoor National Park, located in the counties of Somerset & DevonBest for: Moorland views, wooded valleys and coastal cliffsWildlife: Red deer, Exmoor ponies, birds of preyBest starting points: Dunkery Beacon, Tarr Steps, Valley of Rocks, Dulverton, Porlock Typical distance: 3–10 miles Best time to visit: Any time, but avoid high summer when some locations can be crowded. Spring and autumn are popular with walkers but many increasingly visit Exmoor in the depths of winter when you have a good chance of walking for miles without seeing a soul.  Also because of the topography, Exmoor offers endless opportunities to broaden the horizons of your visit in a single day. You could, for example, enjoy the popular and dramatic seaside resort of Lynmouth in the morning – ride on the thrilling funicular railway up to Lynton and call in at the famous Valley of Rocks – then have lunch in a moorland pub and afterwards escape the madding crowd by taking a stroll over some high lonely heath in the afternoon. Wild red stags roam the moors Just 10,600 residents are scattered across this vast area in which only three settlements have more than 1,300 souls. Farmland accounts for 56 percent of the land usage, 27.5 per cent is moorland and 12 per cent woodland.    Being so sparsely populated, it is a haven for wildlife. Most famously, Exmoor plays host to England’s largest herd of wild red deer. The national park’s other claim to fame is the humble Exmoor pony, thought to be more closely related to the original wild horse than any other breed, save for the extremely rare Przewalski pony.  The high moors - no roads, no houses for miles High Moor Walks Examples: Dunkery Beacon - Exmoor’s highest hill offers a superb vantage point. Some argue the 1705-foot hill has the best views to be found anywhere in Southern England. Read the full walk: Dunkery Beacon Walk Withypool Hill - a lonely upland off the beaten track. Filled with ancient history, Neolithic  barrows rub shoulders with standing stones and other relics of the distant past. A good place to spot the semi-wild Exmoor ponies. The Chains and Western Exmoor - the loneliest part of the national park. This high and remote area can be boggy in winter but it hides any number of unexpected surprises such as Pinkery Pond and the ruins of Hoar Oak Cottage. Snowdrops abound in Exmoor's valleys at the end of January River Valley Walks Examples: Tarr Steps & River Barle - tucked under Withypool Common this famous river valley plays host to a remarkable ancient clapper bridge as well as deep woodlands making it a perfect place to hike if the Atlantic gales are blowing across the high moors.  Horner Woods - home of the British version of a rainforest. The deep river valleys to the north of the Dunkery range play host to ancient oak woods which are covered in rare mosses and lichens. One of the most scenic cores of the national park. Watersmeet - deep in the valley where the East and West Lyn Rivers join forces - this is one of the best known spots in the national park and, for good measure, it has a wonderful National Trust tea-room.   Exmoor's coast in winter Coastal Walks Examples: Valley of Rocks - one of the great walking areas of Exmoor. This remarkable valley hangs above Exmoor’s vertiginous coast. The setting for a million Instagram posts, this wild and rocky valley has something for everyone - you can simply wander across to the tearoom or watch a match being played none of the most scenic cricket pitches to be found anywhere in the world, or go marching off around the hills and cliffs to see the wild goats that live among the rocks.  Porlock Weir - perhaps one of the most beautiful hidden gems of Exmoor. The tiny little harbour sits at the end of Porlock Vale - there are some wonderful refreshment opportunities for those who want to go off hiking along Exmoor’s steep and lonely coast.   Culbone Church - just a couple of miles west along the steep Exmoor coastline from Porlock Weir - the diminutive stone-built temple in the woods is actually the smallest complete church in all of the UK. You have to talk to it - you cannot visit by car - one of the must-do hikes of Exmoor National Park.   Exmoor has an impressive network of way-marked walks Where Are These Walks? The national park covers 693 square kilometres with two thirds located in West Somerset and one third in North Devon. The boundary extends from the vale of West Somerset in the east, almost as far as Ilfracombe and the foothills above Barnstaple in the west - to the south it falls away towards South Molton and to the north it is bordered by the vertiginous shores of the Bristol Channel. When to Walk on Exmoor In late January the snowdrops poke their heads out of the froxen soils - so much so on Exmoor that the village of Wheddon Cross even stages special daily walks to Snowdrop Valley. Often in spring the flanks of the moors turn yellow with gorse flowers. At the same time the deep valleys coombes can be filled with wild garlic. In August the high heather more are famous for their colour - often the purple heather mixes wonderfully with a second flowering of the yellow gorse. Later in the autumn you might well hear the roaring that goes on among the large herds of wild red deer. Locally it’s known as “bulving”. There even used to be an annual competition to see which person could emulate the deep roars of the red deer stags who call to one another and often fight antler to antler during the autumnal mating season.  Some people like this small but intimate national park best in winter. You are more or less guaranteed solitude - but the moors are now popular enough so that many local hostelries will eon for lunch all year round. Nothing better than a bracing walk at over 1000 feet inn a westerly gale, followed by a warming lunch by a log fire in some ancient pub. Take a look at our South West Coast Path guide here Walkers high above the coast at Glenthorne Why I love Exmoor See all of the above. I was born on the edge of Exmoor and have lived inside the national park for most of my life - and my father was a well known journalist who lived and worked in the area. So Exmoor runs through my veins like its fast flowing rivers run from the the high moors.  So obviously, I am biased. But I will say this which I believe to be a fact - and it’s a repetition of what I said at the begging of this post… Variety is the outstanding joy of Exmoor. In so many places you can walk for 20 or 30 minutes and the general view won’t change much at all - on Exmoor things are different. So intimate are the hills and rivers valleys thanks to the soft red sandstone the nation park is based on, that things can change drastically within just a ten minute stroll.  You could be hiking across a seemingly featureless plain one minute, and gazing down into a deep tree-lined ravine the next. Or perhaps you could be wandering through a thick woodland, then ten minutes later be perched on top of a dizzying sea-cliff. No other landscape I know offers such variety.    Walking landscapes and storytelling After more than two decades exploring the landscapes of the West Country as a journalist, I’ve often found that real places naturally inspire stories. The wild coasts and granite moors of Cornwall, in particular, helped inspire my mystery novel The Cornish Snapper: Granite Mystery   Exmoor ponies aren't at all bothered by the snows of winter