A Journey Across the Remote and Empty Chains This hike was originally the idea of Dr. Nigel Stone, who at the time was Chief Executive of the Exmoor National Park Authority (ENPA). He invited me to join him to explore some of the work done to celebrate the 40th anniversary of the Two Moors Way. Britain’s Hidden Long-Distance Gem If there were a competition for Britain’s most beautiful but least known long-distance trails, the Two Moors Way would likely win. A new logo promises the trail takes walkers coast-to-coast. This walk forms part of my complete Exmoor Walking Guide Though it doesn’t officially stretch ocean-to-ocean, this fact doesn’t diminish the trail’s allure. Starting at Lynmouth on the north coast, it traverses Exmoor, Devon’s heart, and Dartmoor before ending at Ivybridge. To truly walk from sea to sea, hikers must continue on the Erme Trail for 15 miles to Wembury’s shoreline. (To see more Exmoor Walks click here) A Missed Opportunity for Simplicity The relaunch missed a trick by not uniting these trails into a single, glorious 117-mile ocean-to-ocean route. Simplicity in storytelling matters, but regardless, significant improvements have been made to enhance the Two Moors Way. Short video taken on the walk to Hoar Oak Setting Off Over High Moorlands Dr. Stone and I began our hike above Simonsbath to witness these enhancements. Utilizing a two-car approach, we parked one vehicle at Brendon Two Gates on the Simonsbath-Lynmouth road, then drove back to Prayway Head. This linear approach is perfect for group hiking, freeing walkers from the constraints of circular routes. Prayway Head: A Historic Starting Point Prayway Head overlooks the young Exe Valley. Its name likely stems from ancient travelers’ prayers before crossing the featureless Chains. This perilous trek once involved boggy, dangerous terrain. Thanks to the Exmoor Mires Project, these landscapes are being re-wetted, restoring their natural balance. Making the Two Moors Way More Passable Heading west across Dure Down, we reached Exe Head, the Exe River’s birthplace. Bags of aggregate lie ready here to improve the trail through boggy sections. These light-touch engineering projects will ensure the trail remains wild while becoming more walker-friendly. The Chains: A Sense of Prehistoric Wilderness Turning north, we descended into a dramatic coombe dividing Exe Plain from The Chains. Just a short walk from Prayway Head, this valley feels like stepping back into prehistoric Britain. Amid the steep ravine’s isolation, ancient stone walls evoke an antediluvian ambiance. Modern Solutions to Ancient Challenges Further along the trail, we observed efforts to address the damage caused by cattle. Thanks to crowdsourced funds, a helicopter delivered aggregate to improve these muddy stretches. Hoar Oak Cottage: The Capital of the Middle of Nowhere Amid this desolation stands Hoar Oak Cottage, a semi-ruined moorland home steeped in legend. Recently stabilized by the ENPA and partnering groups, it remains an evocative relic. Visitors can now explore its roofless rooms and empty windows, feeling the profound solitude of its remote history. Returning to Civilization Our hike concluded by heading east across open moorlands past Clannon Ball to Brendon Two Gates. Ideally, given time, I’d prefer to continue to Lynmouth—the true start or end of the Two Moors Way.

The Sheltered Beauty of Porlock Vale and Horner As wind and sleet blew across the landscape, I embarked on a journey to one of the most sheltered spots in the West Country. Tucked away in the lee of Exmoor's highest hills, Porlock Vale and the village of Horner offer a haven of tranquility, a micro-climate, and a soporific atmosphere that's hard to resist. Horner: A Timeless Village Nestled in Nature Horner, with its ancient mill, giant wheel, stone cottages, and elegant chimneys, is part of the National Trust's Holnicote Estate. Stretching from Dunkery Beacon to the sea, the estate encompasses coombes, river systems, ancient forests, hamlets, and villages, culminating at the grey shingle ridge of Porlock Bay. Exploring the Ancient Forests and Coombes of Exmoor The steep woods surrounding Horner Water make up one of the largest blocks of semi-natural woodland in the country. Internationally significant due to its vast array of lichens, the area also boasts abundant insect and bird-life. This walk forms part of my complete Exmoor Walking Guide. A Four-Mile Hike Through Exmoor's Hinterland Setting off from Horner's car park, I crossed the packhorse bridge to delve into the deep Exmoor hinterland. The riverside track leads south, gradually approaching Dunkery, Somerset's highest hill. Cloutsham Ball, a ferny jungle-like slope, divides the valley in two. East Water Valley: A Scenic Detour Instead of heading westward toward Stoke Pero, I ventured left into East Water Valley. After crossing a bridge and ascending the hill, I recalled nature writer Richard Jefferies' encounter with a stag 129 years prior to my, and I was fortunate enough to witness a large male deer right in the same location. The Descent and Return to Horner The path takes a gentler approach to the top and eventually leads to Webber's Post. Heading due north along the Horner Hill ridge, breathtaking views can be enjoyed before the path descends through a grove of ancient pines. Carefully navigating the tangled roots, I returned to Horner village, rejuvenated by the invigorating air of Exmoor. Fact File Basic hike: From the hamlet of Horner, near Porlock, south up Horner Water into the East Water Valley, ascend to Webber's Post, and return along the ridge of Horner Hill. Recommended Map: Ordnance Survey Outdoor Leisure Map 9 - Exmoor. Distance and going: Approximately four miles, with some steep sections but not too muddy.

The official Twitter account for Exmoor's 3 National Park Centres #Lynmouth#Dulverton & #Dunster is running an excellent lockdown quiz at the moment in which they put a photo a day up on to their twitter account and people who see it have to guess the location… The other day they put up a photo of Hoar Oak Cottage, right out in the middle of the western moors, and it reminded me of the day a few years ago when I walked in that direction with Dr Nigel Stone, who was at the time chief executive of the Exmoor National Park Authority (ENPA). He’d invited me to join him so we could see some of the work which had been done to help celebrate the 40th anniversary of the Two Moors Way. If there was a competition category for Britain’s most beautiful, but least known, long distance trails - this north-to-south route would probably win it. The Two Moors Way was relaunched a couple of weeks ago 40 years after its inception, with a new logo that promises that the trail will take walkers from coast to coast. To read about our Exmoor walks click here The fact that it doesn’t will take nothing away from the path which wends its way south from the West Country’s north coast at Lynmouth - across Exmoor, through the middle of Devon and over Dartmoor - to terminate at Ivybridge. But walkers must then join the Erme Trail to hike the extra 15 miles to the south Devon shoreline at Wembury. A great deal of work has been done to make the Two Moors Ways just that little bit easier and more pleasant to follow. And Dr Stone and I set off over the high moorlands above Simonsbath to see the improvements for ourselves. We did one of those two-car jobs to make things easier - an obvious boon if you are hiking with other people because it allows you to enjoy a linear route rather than always having to find some circular ramble that takes you back to where you began. On this occasion we left one car at Brendon Two Gates on the Simonsbath-Lynmouth road, then drove back south to Prayway Head where there’s plenty of room to park. I don’t know why the dramatic spot above the young Exe Valley is called Prayway - but can guess it was named thus centuries ago by folk who reached this spot, then had to continue out across the featureless Chains. In bad weather, before the bogs up here were messed about with and semi-drained, this would have been a somewhat perilous thing to do. Many of the bogs remain - indeed, this whole area is being re-wetted as part of Exmoor’s Mires Project in a bid to restore the natural balance of this landscape to how it should be - but the scheme is a long way off the point where bottomless pits will swallow you whole, Hound of the Baskervilles style. Nevertheless, the work being carried out up here on the Two Moors Way is all about preventing walkers sinking knee-deep in mud. This we were to see after we’d strolled west across Dure Down. As we reached Exe Head - the damp birthplace of the West Country’s greatest river - so we noticed the bags of aggregate which will be used to allow the Two Moors Way hikers to pass the boggiest bit of this wet corner. This is not a major engineering project - once the work is done you’ll be hard pushed to notice anything has changed, so it won’t take anything away from the wildness of the place - but it will make all the difference to walkers. At Exe Head we’d reached the Two Moors Way, so we turned north along it to drop down into the dramatic looking coombe that divides Exe Plain from The Chains. If you are looking to experience a sense of deep wilderness - but don’t want to have to walk miles from a road - this is a prime place in which to do it. It’s just a 15 minute walk to this spot from Prayway Head, and yet stroll down into this coombe and you can imagine you’ve travelled into some prehistoric Britain. It’s as wild and as beautiful a place as any I know. A little way down the steep sided ravine there are the remains of an old cattle keep - if that really is what the low stone walls represent. Whatever the place was, it gives the scene an even more antediluvian feel because you are now deep in the valley and so can see nothing else man-made at all. There are cattle and sheep, but they somehow have the appearance of wild beasts wondering out on some Serengeti style plain… Down along this part of the long distance trail we were able to see more of the ongoing work which will help the Two Moors Way become more passable. Those cattle have turned some sections into long linear bogs - but, thanks to a recent crowdsourcing exercise, a helicopter was hired to bring in bags of aggregate which will help drain the worst bits. Just as the hiker is now thinking it would be impossible to feel any more remote, the trail comes up with another chapter in its book of loneliness. I refer to Hoar Oak Cottage, an ancient moorland home which has played host to all manner of tales and legends - to the extent that it has become something of an enigma with its own dedicated website and a society of friends. The semi-ruined cottage - which I described as “the capital of the Middle of Nowhere” in a newspaper head-line - underwent refurbishment work a few years ago to stabilise its fabric. The ENPA worked with the Friends of Hoar Oak Cottage, the Exmoor Society and Exmoor Uprising to agree a way of stabilising the ruin. This was the first time I’d visited since the work was completed, and I think it was sensitively done. The empty shell would have simply dissolved into the landscape without trace - now it’s still a ruin, but one that will stay that way for many years to come. And walkers can explore its roofless rooms, see the little fireplaces, peer out of the empty windows - and experience the profound sense of loneliness and remoteness that living in such a place must have engendered. For Nigel and I it was a case of getting back to modern civilisation by heading east - up over the open access moorlands past Clannon Ball, all the way to Brendon Two Gates. Given the time and the choice, though, I’d have preferred to hike right on down to Lynmouth which is where the Two Moors Way begins or ends. If course we are all meant to be in lockdown a the moment - so I would ask people not to drive out to visit the moors. But if you’d like to listen to a short story that includes quite a bit of the Two Moors Way, you can find it by clicking play below…

Here’s a hike local to where I live. Many years ago I wrote an account of this walk for a newspaper - this is a slightly longer version than the article which appeared, probably more than 15 years ago… Years ago I set out for this walk in my own back yard – which was a treat because the parish of Old Cleeve is a large and beautiful domain stretching from high hills to the sea. Much of it is inside the Exmoor National Park and the parish boasts no fewer than 71 different rights-of-way. To read about our Exmoor walks click here I know the exact number thanks to an excellent well-researched collection of the hiking routes available in the parish. Jeanne Web’s ‘Old Cleeve Parish Walks’ is just about the best example of an extremely local walking guide I’ve seen. Not only is Old Cleeve one of the largest parishes in the region, it is one of the most diverse. Few mini-municipalities in the country contain such a range of countryside – from the 1,200 foot Brendon Hill escarpment in the south, to the fossil-bearing reefs of the Bristol Channel in the north. We have forests and we have tiny copses; we have meandering streams and mighty waterfalls; high grasslands and luxuriant, impenetrable, thickets. There is limestone, sandstone and slate; and there are hamlets that appear untouched by the passing of time and we also have a busy main-road village. Tracing the Old Cleeve Escarpment So what I decided to do was follow one of the 24 walks which appear in Mrs Webb’s book, and lengthen it a bit. The hike starts halfway up the slopes of the Brendon Hill escarpment, above the village of Roadwater, at a place called Felon’s Oak (map ref: ST 018 389). This is a couple of miles south, up single track lanes, from the main Minehead-Williton road. There isn’t much at Felon’s Oak, save for the odd felon hanging from the boughs of the tree. Or, at least, there would have been a few centuries ago, but most of the sheep stealers have long gone and Judge Jeffries no longer dishes out harsh justice in these quiet backwaters. There’s room to park on the five-cross way (obviously, I walked up from my home). Following Mrs Webb’s route we head of down the lane where we see a sign for Croydon Hall. There’s an exciting and rather mysterious story attached to this large country house - a remarkable German gent once made a fast departure from here at the outbreak of the First World War. He was called Count Conrad von Hochberg – and as my old editor Jack Hurley once put it: “The imaginations were busy creating out of whispers on the wind the cloak and dagger elements of espionage.” Was von Hochberg a German spy? Well, I am ashamed to say that long dead colleagues in the journalistic trade would have it that way. The Count was in fact, an Anglophile and the last thing he wanted was to take up arms against the country he had fallen in love with. He died in Berlin years later and the only hymns sung at the Church of England funeral service were in English and the sermon was preached in the same tongue. But, back in the dark days of 1914, the hacks were making Buchanesque noises about his “Fortress on the cliffs”. They didn’t go quite as far as to mention the 39 Steps – but in the interests of accuracy I must tell you Croydon Hall is hardly a fortress and it is three long miles from a sea-cliff. Back to the parish walks guide... We go past the hall and a couple of cottages then turn right onto a farm track which takes us along the contour of the hill before we take a left down the side of a long hedge that takes us due south. This field enjoys the luxury of wide headlands – which in spring is a wonderful thing to behold as all sorts of wildflowers grow attracting goodness what insects, and therefore birds. In fact, Mrs Webb tells us: “The field scabious (knautia arvensis) and the pink musk mallow (malva moschata) can be found among the common hedgerow plants.” She adds: “The view towards the Brendon hills extends to Timwood and Comberow and the right-hand horizon and straight ahead Kingsdown Clump caps the skyline.” It’s all most picturesque in a uniquely Brendon escarpment sort of way. We swing right – downhill – at the bottom of the hedge, and head for the woods. Once inside the trees we find ourselves walking down a sort of miniature coombe, in which, according to the authoress, we see: “male fern (dryopteris filixmas) and hart’s tongue (asplenium scolopendrium).” Now we enter the village of Roadwater via Tacker Street – which is a tiny southern annex of the community. Across the stream and past a few houses, we reach the Luxborough road where we turn left past the excellent Valiant Soldier Inn. A minute after the pub you will see a tiny road dipping down between houses on the right – walk 50 metres along this and you will come to a Y-shaped junction – keep left and hike 30 metres up the hill to find the Coleridge Way path (on the right through a field gate). This splendid thoroughfare now strikes off south wards along the contours of the valley, taking you first across a field and through what used to be a pinewood – then introducing you to another field, which in turn is followed by a second wood. This is a delightful stand of young beech trees and on its far side you will spy a beautiful hamlet consisting of a couple of classic West Country thatched cottages. This is Lower Hayne and you must stroll down to it by taking the footpath that leaves the Coleridge Way. Cross the lane, and another path leads through the gardens of the cottages before climbing the opposite slope of the valley. This ancient overgrown track ascends until it reaches the Leighland lane where we turn left to walk the few hundred metres past Stamborough Farm. Just after this another lane veers to the right and we stroll up its length until it is dissected by the Stamborough Farm road. Directly opposite you will see a path leading to the village of Treborough. This necessitates another climb across fields – which isn’t surprising as Treborough is about 1000 feet above sea level. The path eventually levels out and arrives at a junction where you will see the hamlet’s church straight ahead. Make for it, but before you reach the old temple take the lane on the right by the old schoolhouse. This little used road climbs for a few hundred metres, then begins a long descent. We go down it for about half a mile until we come across our old friend the Coleridge Way again. It touches the road briefly here – and we must take its right-hand fork which will convey us down across fields and into Langridge Wood. The long distance trail descends a ridge inside this forest to eventually reach the Luxborough road – and what we do is cross straight over, past the house called Peterswell Lake. Close to the garden gate, we join another footpath which takes us back - in a rather muddy and overgrown way – to the Washford Stream that we crossed at Tacker Street. There’s a wide wooden bridge – and then it’s up into the woods once more, to eventually debouche into a steep field. The path climbs this to the gate at the high end and now we’re on the track to Greenland. Roadwater, by-the-way, is the only place in the world that has Greenland on one side and Egypt on the other – though why the folk of yesteryear should name their hamlets in such an international way, I have no idea. And I must say it can feel like Greenland in the snow – Egyptian weather was like a dream from a distant planet. Our track now turns into a tarmac lane, and we simply follow it back to Felon’s Oak, having enjoyed fine wintry views of the eastern slopes of Exmoor National Park. Fact File Basic hike: from Felon’s Oak (map ref: ST 018 389) down to Roadwater – taking in the Mineral Line valley and the Coleridge Way we climb eventually to Treborough before returning down to the Luxborough road and then back up to the start via Greenland. Recommended map: Ordnance Survey OL 9 Exmoor. Distance and going: Seven miles – can be muddy and a bit steep in places. Frequently Asked Questions Where can I park for the Felon's Oak walk? Limited roadside parking can be found near the historic five-cross way at Felon's Oak, situated in the single-track lanes high above Roadwater. Alternatively, walkers can start the circular route from the public parking options down in the village of Roadwater and complete the steady climb up Leighland lane first. What is the history behind Felon's Oak on Exmoor? Felon's Oak is an ancient five-cross way crossroads steeped in local folklore. It traditionally marks a site where historic frontier justice was carried out on Exmoor, including the hanging of sheep stealers and local outlaws during the eras of harsh judicial decrees in the West Country backwaters. Can you visit Croydon Hall? Croydon Hall is a grand, private country house estate located near Roadwater. While the house and its grounds are private, the public right-of-way farm track skims directly past the estate's impressive entrance gates, allowing walkers an excellent view of the property linked to First World War espionage lore. Is the trail suitable for dogs? Yes, the route follows a mix of public footpaths, quiet country lanes, and sections of the Coleridge Way. However, because parts of the track traverse active Somerset farm fields with wide headlands, dogs must be kept under close control or on leads around livestock. The local pub on the route, The Valiant Soldier, is dog-friendly.

Selworthy Sands Imagine a fabulous sandy beach that’s over a quarter of a mile long and surrounded by amazingly dramatic scenery. Now imagine that beach with no one down there by the waves enjoying its winds acres. Why is it so empty? Why is it so secret? Because reaching it, then getting back to civilisation safely again, is very perilous indeed. So dangerous, in fact, that no one really wants you to go there. Certainly not the local lifeboat crew or coastguard. Because they have been called to that beach far too many times to help stranded but clueless adventurers. Warnings and Dangers: Why the Beach Remains a Secret I add the word clueless, because you can reach this beach in safety if you really do know what you are doing. By which I mean, you are acutely aware of the tidal situation on an hour-by-hour, minute-by-minute basis, and you know the secret cave that will introduce you to the beach without your having to lower yourself down a 60 foot rope. And even if you do know the whereabouts of this cave, you will need very good footwear and have excellent levels of agility to negotiate the giant slippery which you must cross to reach the sands. This Secret Place - written for the regional daily newspapers such as the Western Morning News and Western Daily Press - is one off the best beaches to be found along a 60-mile stretch of the West Country’s north coast between Weston-Super-Mare and Combe Martin. It really does boast many acres of fine golden sands –but the reason hardly anyone ever goes there is because it is extremely difficult to get to and if you do somehow manage to get yourself down to the shore, you will have a very good chance of being cut-off by the second biggest tide in the world. To read about our Exmoor walks click here The Route: Descending to Exmoor’s Hidden Shoreline The last time I went by the normal route and approached the place from the massive hill that hides it by descending the scary scree to the edge of a near vertical 60-foot cliff, I saw the old rope (that has been there for years) now terminated about 20 feet above the beach. Not a nice place to be left dangling. Author Martin Hesp at Selworthy Sands A Step Back in Time: My Personal Experience on the Secluded Beach When I was a youth there was a proper path down and not some flimsy bit of rope. A very scary path, it was too. But one which I used as a teenager nearly 50 years ago when I camped down on the beach with a girlfriend. I dread to think of the fuss that would ensure if some teenagers did that today. Walkers would be ringing rescue services on their mobile phones and there would be helicopters buzzing about the place and goodness knows what. But back then there were very few walkers, and no mobile phones. And because these secret sands are well off the beaten track (by which I mean that it is even off limits to the all-seeing all-marching South West Coast Path) it is one of the most hidden places in the entire West Country. Going through the Gull's Hole to Selworthy Sands Journey to the Top: The Scenic Route to Hurlestone Point All of which is why I am not going to describe the exact way to reach the beach – but I can divulge how you can safely reach a vantage point which will give you fabulous views of the wondrous sands without your having to risk life and limb attempting to actually be on it… The best way is to aim for the little car-park in the almost unbelievably pretty, chocolate-box village of Bossington, a mile-and-a-half north-east of Porlock. Cross the footbridge that looks as if it's been inspired by the one at Claude Monet's lily-pond, and turn left along the riverside. The path ascends gently towards Hurlestone Point - the dramatic headland which not only commands the eastern tip of Porlock Bay, but also does a massive job of effectively hiding our secret place. Walking across the boulder beach to Selworthy Sands Unveiling the Unknown: The Secret Sea-Tunnel Beneath Hurlestone Point There's a ruined coastguard look-out that sits squat on a shelf some 200 feet above the end of the jagged point and I recommend strolling out to its airy realm. From it you can peer around the corner and see the wide expanse of the sands stretching east under the great hill. What you will not see from this truly panoramic vantage point is the secret sea-tunnel which passes through the very end of the headland 150-feet beneath your feet. It is called the Gull’s Hole and only a handful of people in the entire world know of its existence. Which is why I’m not going to give directions here. However, it has been mentioned in an excellent book called The Hidden Edge of Exmoor by Kester and Elizabeth Webb which is basically an encyclopaedia for those wishing to explore this most dangerous of all the region’s coastlines. The Gull's Hole entrance to Selworthy Sands The pair describe Hurlestone Point and its secret sea-cave thus: “The ridge tapers as it descends, forming a sharp headland poking out into the sea. It looks, from the air, like a huge fossilized dragon. The top jaw of this monster is formed by a graceful anticline and, at the centre of the arch, some seven beds of rock have been punched right through by the sea, leaving a 12-foot, and very draughty, thru-cave. “This Gull Hole, with arched ceiling and convex floor, provides an easy half-tide passage from Eastern Cliffs through to Western Cliffs and Bossington Beach.” For the likes of the late Kester Webb, who was one of the Exmoor coast’s most experienced guides, the Gull’s Hole did offer an “easy” kind of access to the secret world beyond. For most of the human race it is hazardous. I can imagine a health and safety expert would turn pale if they were to see the slippery seaweed covered rocks and cliffs you need to negotiate eve, to reach it. And you must only make the attempt when the tide is right. By which I mean – when it is falling. Only at half-tide or lower can you reach the Gull’s Hole by scrambling across the rocks – and, once you are through, you’d better put a move on if you are intending to boulder-hop the half-mile to the secret sands, and then return via the same route. My Latest Scrambling Adventure to the Secret Sands I recently did this scrambled adventure in the company of my brother John - who knows the place well having lived in nearby Bossington for many years – and although we were back in plenty of time, I could see the incoming tide would have caused us major problems had we dallied out on the sands for another half hour. I’d also add that we are fairly fit blokes for our age – do not even think of trying this route if you are not in tip-top health or if you have trouble with leaping across gaps from giant boulder to giant boulder. Climbing to the Gull's Hole at Hurlestone Point can be extremely tricky Once you are on the sands you find yourself being awed by the massiveness of the place and by the vast boiler-plated cliffs that rise heavenwards to meet even bigger hogs-back hills which loom more than 900 feet above the shore. Of all the places in the region, this is the zone in which humans feel truly dwarfed by their surroundings. I have never seen another soul down here – save for that girlfriend I mention who shared a dreamy weekend with me here all those years ago. That ended in tears, by the way. My tears. And they were wept because of the severe pain I found myself in. A Bittersweet Memory: My Unforgettable Encounter with a Portuguese Man of War The lethal currents around here are powerful enough to gouge large indentations into the sand – and sometimes, when the tide is out, these can be wide and deep enough to swim in. How cheerful was I when hurled myself deep into the sun-warmed waters of one of these natural pools… And how agonised was I to discover the thing was filled with a million almost invisible stinging tentacles of a dead Portuguese Man of War jellyfish. My dreams of acting the part of some handsome young Robinson Crusoe disappeared under a thousand red weals. A Unique Event: Recalling the Historic Landing of Small Airplanes on the Secret Sands A far more memorable image is one described in The Hidden Coast of Exmoor in which Kester and Elizabeth write about the occasion in 2009 when five small aeroplanes actually landed on these wide sands. It had all been carefully arranged and the pilots of four old World War Two Austers and one modern Cub were greeted by a ground-crew who’d been taken down by Kester. The Importance of Preserving the Secret Beach's Solitude and Beauty I cannot imagine this Secret Place will ever see anything like it again – but then, it’s a location that has played host to very few human activities down the years. Long may that continue.

Looking down the River Barle from Simonsbath For centuries, we despised bogs, doing everything in our power to avoid or drain them. But increasingly, people are beginning to appreciate the value of these squelchy wet places – an idea I once witnessed at an event called Past in the Peat, part of the Festival of British Archaeology. This exhibition aimed to show not only the environmental importance of healthy peat bogs but also the rich history such landscapes contain and protect. Peatlands above Simonsbath The Secrets Within the Peat 🌍 Peat is anaerobic, meaning it seals anything within it from oxygen, preventing normal decay. Over time, exciting finds have been discovered in peat bogs, including ancient wooden trackways built across the Somerset Levels by early farmers in the 4th millennium BC. Experts now believe that Exmoor’s peat bogs, which were well-populated in Bronze Age times, may hold treasures of their own. Experts examine Exmoor's peat bogs This exhibition set the scene for a beautiful day’s walk around Simonsbath, a small settlement that might lack modern services but makes up for it with rich hiking opportunities. Go there on a sunlit summer day, and you’ll see this area of peat bogs at its very best. The Route: Walking the River Barle Valley from Simonsbath The River Barle flows down from the high, stark moorlands of The Chains, forming a lush, tree-lined valley as it heads toward its meeting point with the Exe River south of Dulverton. Simonsbath is situated along this river, and the surrounding landscape features a striking mix of forest and open moorland. Simonsbath Fact File 📍 Route: Simonsbath to Cow Castle via ridge paths north of the Barle, returning along the riverside. Recommended Map: Ordnance Survey Explorer OL9. Distance and Difficulty: Four miles, fairly easy terrain. Heading out from Simonsbath, the hike begins with a path through Birchcleave, a beautiful grove of beech trees directly to the east of the village. Instead of following the main river path, take the signposted trail to Pickedstones. This path climbs out of the woods and into open fields to the north of the Barle. From here, you proceed southeast, following the river valley from a ridge and passing the farm at Winstitchen to ascend a shoulder of land dividing the Barle from its tributary, the small and hidden White Water. (To see more Exmoor walks click here) The History: Tracing the Royal Forest and the Knight Estate As the ridge descends, leading to the meeting of these two waterways, the path approaches Cow Castle, one of Exmoor’s most picturesque and intriguing hill-forts. Its strategic position atop a steep knoll gives it an air of impregnability, explaining why early inhabitants chose it as a defensive site. While some ramparts are still visible, it’s the site’s natural steepness that adds to its sense of mystery and beauty. Turning to follow the riverside path back to Simonsbath, you’ll pass more historical sites, including the haunting ruins of Wheal Eliza. Walkers at the Wheal Eliza near Simonsbath The Industrial Past and Tragic History of Wheal Eliza ⚒️ Just before reaching Flexbarrow, you’ll see the stark remains of Wheal Eliza, a 19th-century mine where copper, manganese, and iron were once extracted. In its heyday, this lonely corner was a hive of industry, with miners sinking a 300-foot shaft and installing a large water wheel to power the pumps. For a while, it seemed the area might become an Exmoor Klondike, as 60% metallic ore was found. Encouraged by early successes, local landowner Frederic Knight even began construction on an ambitious trans-moorland railway to transport the minerals to Porlock Weir. But the venture was doomed to failure, and Wheal Eliza became a silent testament to a broken dream. Adding to its tragic allure, Wheal Eliza is also associated with the murder of young Anna Maria Burgess, whose father, William Burgess, killed her nearby and hid her body in one of the shafts. The case was recorded by Simonsbath’s first curate, Rev. William Thornton, who also acted as a detective in this remote area, where the nearest police officer was 35 miles away in Taunton. Without Thornton’s persistence, Burgess may never have been brought to justice. His chilling confession still resonates: “The child was in the way, sir – in my way and in everybody else’s way – and I thought she’d be better out of the way.” A Hike Through History This journey through Simonsbath’s peatlands offers both natural beauty and haunting stories. As you return along the river valley to Simonsbath, take a moment to reflect on the lives and dreams that played out here – some ending in glory, others in tragedy. Today, these ancient landscapes continue to hold secrets, preserved in the peat and waiting for those who venture to explore. Simonsbath & Central Exmoor Walk FAQs Where does the Simonsbath walk start? The most convenient starting point is the main Exmoor National Park car park in Simonsbath village, located just off the B3223. The walking trails are easily accessed directly from the parking area. How difficult is walking around Simonsbath? Central Exmoor offers beautiful but rugged terrain. While riverside paths along the Barle can be gentle, heading out onto the open moorland involves exposed paths, steady climbs, and terrain that can become incredibly boggy after rain. Good navigational skills and sturdy footwear are essential. What historical sights can you see on a Simonsbath walk? Simonsbath is steeped in industrial and agricultural history. Walks in the area often pass the historic Simonsbath House, remnants of the Knight family's 19th-century estate reclamation projects, and the haunting ruins of Wheal Eliza, an old iron mine in the Barle valley. Are there refreshments available in Simonsbath? Yes, the village offers options for walkers, including the traditional Exmoor Forest Inn and local tea rooms, making it an excellent base for a circular walk.

Cottage at the top of Selworthy Green, in Somerset Discover Selworthy: A Sanctuary of Nature and Tranquility 🏞️ Home of a hundred hikes, each more picturesque, dramatic, and ruggedly rural than the next, Selworthy boasts deep, moody woods, swathes of high moorland heather, vast Exmoor panoramas, rolling vistas of Porlock's perfect vale, and wild salty glimpses of the Severn Sea. All of these wonders are on offer within just a mile or two of this extraordinary village. 🌲✨ So why not follow me up along the intricate footpaths to enjoy the breathtaking views from Selworthy Beacon, before returning past the rugged cliffs and through the deep, dark forest of evergreen oaks? Selworthy Green, now looked after by the National Trust (To see more Exmoor Walks click here) The Route: Exploring Selworthy Green and Up into the Woods You can view Selworthy’s white-painted church from miles around, but it’s the car park a couple of hundred metres up the lane that offers the best starting point for this circular route. The church is far older than most of the idyllic village (mostly owned by the National Trust) that it serves. The picturesque thatched cottages, so perfectly arranged around The Green below, were established in 1810 by Sir Thomas Acland as part of a model farming commune. However, Selworthy was not a traditional village in the true sense—there never was a school, a pub, or a proper shop. Into Selworthy Combe 🌳 Just to the left of the gift shop at the top of The Green, a footpath leads north up wooded Selworthy Combe. The track splits after half a mile, and I recommend taking the right-hand fork until you reach Lady Acland’s Hut on your left. You can rest in this charming chalet, surrounded by the delicate beauty of birch trees, and perhaps think of Chekhov or Turgenev—the atmosphere here feels uniquely Russian. Behind the hut, a tiny path winds up through the woods, eventually reaching another hut at the top of the hill. The Aclands were clearly fond of huts! One of the squires used to bring his children and grandchildren to the "Wind and Weather Hut" to enjoy the views and recite his favorite poetry. Inscribed on the hut is a verse by Keble: Needs no show of mountain hoary, winding shore or deepening glen; where the landscape in its glory, teaches truth to wandering men. Not entirely sure what it means, but as a wandering man myself, it struck a chord as I crossed the road to reach Selworthy Beacon. Views from Selworthy Beacon 🔭 What incredible views await you at Selworthy Beacon! From here, you can see Wales, the Bristol Channel, the Quantocks, the Brendons, and the vast expanse of Exmoor, with Dunkery looming to the south. From Selworthy Beacon, take a section of the South West Coast Path down to Hurlestone Point. To the right, a side path leads over a steep spur down past dramatic cliffs to the old Coastguard Lookout—only recommended for those with a good head for heights! Through Bossington and the Evergreen Oak Woods 🌳 Just south of Hurlestone, two paths head toward Bossington—take the higher one, which traverses above this village. Bossington is yet another picturesque, thatched Acland community mostly owned by the National Trust. The steep slope below gives the sensation of floating, almost like being in a helicopter or a hang glider. Soon, you’ll be plunged back into the woods. This section of the walk can feel especially dark due to the canopy of evergreen oaks (Ilex). In fact, this is the largest stand of Ilex in Britain, giving the forest an almost Mediterranean feel. Follow any of the myriad paths heading southeast along the hill, and eventually, you’ll find yourself back on The Green at Selworthy, ready to join the day-trippers for a well-deserved cream tea. Fact File 📌 Route: From Selworthy Green to Selworthy Beacon, down to Hurlestone Point, and back through the evergreen oak woods. Recommended Map: Ordnance Survey OL9 – Exmoor. Distance & Difficulty: 6 miles, steep in places. Selworthy & Exmoor Hills Walk FAQs Where is the best place to start the Selworthy walk? The ideal starting point is the National Trust car park at Selworthy (above the Periwinkle Tea Rooms). From here, well-marked paths lead directly up into the surrounding woods and hills. How long is the circular walk around Selworthy? A standard circular loop through Selworthy woods up to Selworthy Beacon covers roughly 3 to 4.5 miles and typically takes between 1.5 and 2.5 hours, depending on your pace. Is the walk up to Selworthy Beacon steep? Yes, the climb through the woodland trails up toward the beacon involves a steady, fairly steep ascent. However, the paths are well-maintained, and the panoramic views across the Bristol Channel and Exmoor from the top are well worth the effort. Are there facilities available along this walking route? Excellent facilities are available at the start and end of the walk at Selworthy Green, including public toilets and a seasonal tea room. There are no facilities once you head up into the woods and onto the hills.

The Exmoor coast above Porlock No public right of way in the world captures the imagination quite like the South West Coast Path - I’ve met all manner of individuals who, in some way or another, have been entranced by all or some part of the 630-mile trail. Some have had jobs maintaining the path, others have merely used it for pleasure, some have rescued people along it, written about it, painted it, studied its geology and even collected fossils from under it. To read about our Exmoor walks click here And I’ve found myself questioning my own fascination for the most beautiful path in the world. As a walks writer for 20 years, I was forever pacing up and down the coast path – but what was it that first drew me to the long thin strip of loveliness by the sea? I found part of the answer this week while looking through my father’s dusty files. He was a journalist and I recall him telling me stories about a mysterious correspondent who called himself Afghan. It was the rich vein of anecdotes from this enigmatic man that first captured my seaside imagination beyond the boyhood call of bucket and spade. Afghan, who would not have his real name printed in a newspaper, was a font of knowledge when it came to the most lonely section of the coast path – the 12 mile stretch between Porlock Weir and the North Devon Foreland. The vast vertical shoulder where Exmoor meets the sea. North Devon Foreland Here’s what my father wrote about Afghan some 40 years ago. “His notes contain references to the paths which contour through the hanging woods high over the sea on the ramparts of Exmoor. Some of these paths were little more than game trails widened by the ancient men who passed among these hunting grounds between historic Caesar’s Camp and the mysterious Guild Hall over Embelle Bay. “Landslides are not infrequent on these unstable, seawards cliffs of the moor and many of the paths which were passable in Afghan’s younger days are now unused and overgrown terminating in sheer precipices where the land has fallen away. “According to Afghan, a former landowner went to the trouble of bringing mountaineers over from Switzerland especially to construct some of these scenic paths. In steep places they worked with Alpine techniques using ropes and ice-picks. A century’s storms have swept away much of their fantastic work, and much of the remainder is quite overgrown and hidden away. “Afghan’s notes refer to Apple Dumpling Point and Cherry Tree Steep. The first is a rocky outcrop on the Culbone Path, which apparently got its name when a group of workmen, toiling there a long time ago, grew weary of hearing one of their mates boasting about his wife’s apple dumplings. While his back was turned the opened his lunch box and, to use Afghan’s phrase, ‘abstracted the apple contents from the dumplings and substituted some rubbish.’ He goes on to speak of the merriment of the workmen at their meal break, when their mate bit into his vaunted viands. Culbone Church “Whether the glorious cherry tree which gives its name to Cherry Tree Steep was planted by the monks of Chapel Knap, or grew from a walking stick which sprouted from being carelessly struck in the fruitful earth, Afghan seems uncertain, but he was more sure of himself on the matter of ghosts on these paths. “Big yellow dogs, strange figures all in black and unseen, ghostly presences all figure in his reminiscent notes. He pointed out that one part was strangely avoided by woodland birds.” The Route: Hiking the Dramatic Porlock Coastline As a boy I was taken to this eerie section of coast beyond Culbone – and indeed, there were no birds. The vertiginous area certainly does have a strange, sepulchral feel to it – which may or may not be to do with the Graves of the Forty Doones that are situated not far away. What exactly the barrows of that name are – who put them there and why - not even Afghan knew. But he did know all about the customs officer who used to patrol this most lonely of tracts. His job was to patrol the path between Porlock Weir and Lynmouth each and every night. Writing from Afghan’s notes, my father recorded: “This gentleman carried a swordstick. With it he made furious passes at a ghostly figure which insisted on accompanying him. In the end he got fed up, slashing at empty air, and in time he learned to value the company of his silent companion on the solitary night time vigils.” But my favourite of all the Afghan reminiscences is an anecdote relating to a mysterious man of true and tremendous style and élan. Again, I refer to my father’s notes: “It seems that in a little dell beside the Culbone pathway, Afghan once saw a man walking about in ever-widening circles probing the ground with a sharp-ended stick. “Curiosity getting the better of him, Afghan approached the man and asked if he had lost something. ‘No,’ was the reply. ‘But each year, when I am in this area, I always bury a couple of bottles of beer so that when the next holiday comes around and we are dry with walking, I can mystify my companions by asking them if they are thirsty. And then, as if by magic in this lonesome place, I produce the much needed drinks.’ “Afghan said nothing but watched the stranger dubiously, until the man suddenly stopped probing with his stick and began scraping aside the mossy earth. Presently he dug up two bottles of beer.” In all the years I’ve been trudging up and down the celebrated path, I have never succeeded in emulating this moment of panache. But the remarkable little tale is the reason I first fell in love with the nation’s favourite long distance trail and so I have the mysterious plucker of bottles, and Afghan, to thank for all the seaside miles I’ve paced. Exmoor coast where the Grave of the Forty Doones hide in the steep woods The 40 Graves Where are the Graves of the Forty Doones? Exmoor's vertical coastline stretches from Porlock out towards the Somerset-Devon border with hills dropping more than 1,200 feet down to sea-level. Along the way there are countless coombes with myriad paths running through thick woods where all you can hear is the cry of the peregrine and the crash of the waves. To make things worse the modern Exmoor Outdoor Leisure map makes no mention of either bandits' graves or Guildhalls - or anything else that might lead to a clue. But a 70 year-old map I have of the area does contain information... 'The Guildhall', just below Sugarloaf Hill and above Yenworthy Wood. The name 'Yenworthy' rang a bell and I looked in a cuttings file and found an old photo of the 'Doone Long Gun'. In the picture it's being held by Farmer Pile who, some thirty years ago lived at Yenworthy and for some reason kept this extraordinary weapon. Blackmoor had the Doones being shot at by just such a gun at a farm whose description fits Yenworthy exactly. In the story no-one is at home save for an old grandmother and, upon hearing that the Doones are on their way to rob her, she loads the long barrel with gunpowder, nails, tacks and anything else she can find. North Devon Foreland from the east As the marauders arrive she shoots, causing them to retreat in "great discomfiture". She had every right to do so - the last time they'd come a-calling they'd thrown the baby on the fire. With such discomfiting thoughts I dropped down over the hill into the steep coastal woods. And when I say dropped, you'll see that's no exaggeration - if you're ever lucky enough to visit this stunningly beautiful corner of the West Country. Everything is on the perpendicular around here, and if you were unfortunate enough to stumble upon the Guildhall from the south, you certainly would drop. There's a sheer 60 foot cliff face on one side of this rocky ravine. But what an eerie place the Guildhall is. There can be no geological reason for this dripping, mossy chasm, but oddly there are no records of there ever having been a quarry in such a remote location. Porlock Coast & Mysterious Graves Walk FAQs Where does the Porlock coast walk begin? This coastal walking route typically begins near Porlock Weir or the main Porlock village car parks, guiding walkers along the dramatic paths looking out over the Bristol Channel. Is the Porlock coast walk suitable for dogs? Yes, the coastal paths are popular with dog walkers. However, due to sheer cliff edges, narrow coastal trails, and the presence of nearby livestock or ground-nesting birds, dogs must be kept under close control. How difficult is the walking terrain along the Porlock coast? The terrain features stunning coastal vistas but includes uneven paths, rocky shoreline sections, and some steep ascents and descents characteristic of the Exmoor coastline. Sturdy walking boots are highly recommended.

I was working on my children’s story today - which is a nice thing to do on a wet and windy afternoon until your eyes grow weary with the words on the screen. The story is a sort of Dunster Fairytale - and it put me in mind of this lovely walk in the area. I’m talking about the hike that takes you out of Minehead and across the hills that lie inland to the south of the seaside town. Minehead, for those who don’t know it, is surrounded by high steep ridges which stretch around from the west to the south (to the north lies the Bristol Channel and to, the east, the flatlands of Dunster marshes). North Hill, to the west, is the prominence more favoured by walkers because it runs along the coast and plays host to the very start (or end) of the South West Coast Path. But the ridge to the south offers a fine hiking country as well, because you can still look down on plenty of seashore - but you also eventually get enormous vistas of the Avill Valley running up to Dunkery Beacon (Exmoor’s highest hill) and also of the central massif that is Croydon Hill, above Dunster’s historic Deer Park. The Route: Climbing Grabbist Hill from Dunster Village We walked up out of Minehead town centre to a place called Cher which is on what passes for the Minehead-to-Porlock bypass. Strange name, Cher - and nothing to do with female rockstars. Instead it is an ancient place where the Minehead Hobby Horse has traditionally performed a kind of primeval mating ritual on the dawn of each May Day. I remember witnessing these shenanigans some 30 years ago and, even then, wondering if something called political correctness wouldn’t one day step in to “clean up” the act. Think: fair maddens being held down underneath the shifting pulsating girth of a giant frisky man-made horse… Anyway, moving rapidly on we turned right and walked along the pavement for a few hundred metres before crossing the main-road and heading up the steep lane that eventually leads to Hopcott Common. Soon the climb takes you into the trees and after a while the paved road terminates in a car park, after which there is a choice of tracks which continue to ascend towards the common and the top. My advice is to stick to the tracks on your right, otherwise you might find yourself being lead along the contours to Alcombe Common, which is a bit low down on the ridge for our overall intentions. The righthand tracks will take you up through the trees and eventually introduce you to an ancient beech hedge (in which the trees have grown to heights of 60 or 70 feet) and this in turn will take you out onto the airy heaths of Hopcott ridge. Up here you are treated to magnificent views not only of Minehead far below, but of most of the vale of West Somerset, whose shoreline stretches east toward the distant Quantock Hills. We turned left to join the main ridge track and walk in the direction which increasingly revealed more and more of the vale. Once the Knowle Hill forests were out of the way on our righthand side, we were also able to see the deep, green, almost gorge-like valley of the Avill. Across the abyss to the south we could spy Vinegar Hill rising to lovely Gallox Hill with the remains of its ancient fortress - and past that there were the great forests of Croydon Hill climbing ever upwards towards the distant high escarpment of the Brendons. It’s a wide and well-worn track that runs east to Grabbist - the famous hill where Mrs Cecil Frances Alexander was so impressed that she wrote the hymn All Things Bright and Beautiful. As you near Dunster from this altitudinous angle, the track divides once or twice - but what we are looking for is the little path at Grabbist which cuts down the steepest (or southerly) side of this most vertical of hills. You could go straight on down into the village (as indeed this column did last time it ventured this way) but this time I wanted to take the public right-of-way that runs down through the trees on that near vertical southern slopes. It’s not too bad a descent, as the track drops gently down the contours rather than plunging straight for the bottom - which is just as well because if it did you’d need a climbing rope. Down and down goes the path - past then little shelf where the old Giant of Dunster is said to have lived - to a junction near the foot of Grabbist where you can go either left or right. We chose the latter because my daughter had left her car in the old Gallox Bridge part of the village. I suggest you do the same because you can stroll down to the ancient clapper bridge on the other side of which there’s a newish path that will take you down beside the River Avill under Dunster Castle’s ramparts before introducing you to the village’s main car parks. Beyond these there’s the A39 Minehead road where you can take a bus back to town, or a little further still there’s the West Somerset Railway which will do the same. Or you could walk on to the beach and turn left along the West Somerset Coast Path - which would eventually take you back to Minehead seafront. Either way, this is a lovely, lovely, walk that will show you unusual and dramatic views of some of the best known places in West Somerset. Exmoor Walk Details & Practical Information Basic walk: from Minehead over Hopcott Common to Dunster returning by bus, steam-train or along the West Somerset Coast Path. Distance and going: one way walk 4 miles - just over 6 if returning via the coast - easy going good tracks but a steep climb up to Hopcott. LOCAL VENUES Beyond the woods, the Foresters At the base of steep Grabbist Hill you will see the roadside Forester Arms in Dunster - a good local for a drink and some pub grub. https://www.foresters-arms-dunster.co.uk/ Liking the Luttrell In the centre of Dunster there’s the famous Luttrell Arms - a wonderful and stylish historic inn with excellent food. https://www.luttrellarms.co.uk/ All Ashore for the Ship Aground If you’re walking back along the coast - or if you fancy lunch or a snack back in Minehead rather than in Dunster, try the Old Ship Aground down by the quay where the food is reasonable and very reasonably priced. http://www.theoldshipaground.com/ To read about our Exmoor walks click here Grabbist Hill & Dunster Walk FAQs How long is the Grabbist Hill walk from Dunster? The walk typically takes between 1.5 to 2.5 hours depending on your chosen loop, covering roughly 3 to 4.5 miles of varied terrain. Is the walk up Grabbist Hill difficult? The initial ascent out of Dunster village is quite steep and requires a reasonable level of fitness, but once you reach the ridge line, the walking is relatively flat, open, and highly rewarding. Are dogs allowed on the Grabbist Hill walking trails? Yes, dogs are welcome on Grabbist Hill, but because it is a managed part of the Exmoor landscape, you may encounter free-roaming livestock. Dogs should be kept under close control or on a lead when sheep or ponies are present. Where is the best place to park for this Exmoor walk? The best option is to use the main pay-and-display car parks in Dunster village (such as the Dunster Steep car park) and begin your walk on foot from the village center up toward the ridge.

A Luxury Hideaway Above Mousehole, Cornwall A Cornish Holiday Invitation That’s Hard to Refuse Here’s an invitation few could resist: “Why don’t you and your wife try out a beautiful little hideaway property for two, perched above a famous Cornish fishing village? When you’re there, we’ll cook you a meal so memorable, you’ll be talking about it for months!” Okay, I’m in. Who wouldn’t be? Controversy Versus Reality: Is the Fallen Angel an Eyesore? Oh… until you see online that one of the more scurrilous national newspapers recently did a hatchet-job on the particular hideaway in question, calling it an eyesore. Which is claptrap. I have now stayed at the Fallen Angel, a fabulous, architect-designed, tiny, two-room property at Mousehole, and believe it adds but does not take anything away from this highly-popular, much-changed, harbour-village. A Modern Holiday Home That Blends with Mousehole’s Changing Identity It is a modern building and not an old granite cottage, that much is true. But in my opinion it fits ideally with its setting and does not impinge in any way when it comes to the overall look of the village. Moreover, when I say that Mousehole is much-changed, I mean in a demographic sense. No longer home to fishing families, the village is now one of the most holiday-home-centric communities in the South West peninsula. More than half of those charming little terraced homes are holiday-homes and AirBandBs. If you enjoy this page look at other Cornish articles on our website The Transformation of a Derelict Shed into a Romantic Getaway in Cornwall Which is another reason why I feel supportive of the property in question. An existing dwelling was not taken away from being a potential home for a local family - instead, the owners rescued what was more-or-less a derelict shed sitting on a very steep, overgrown, parcel of land. I know that to be true because I’ve seen a photo-album filled with pictures focussing on the development of the place. Experiencing the Fallen Angel in Mousehole I was more than happy with the idea of going to stay in the Fallen Angel at Mousehole - and even happier after my wife and I had spent a wonderful weekend in the so-called “Hitler’s bunker”. Honestly! Where do scurrilous tabloids get their mad ideas from, other than in their bid to create more cheap and nasty clickbait? And Hitler’s bunker was deep underground - not a place enjoying truly glorious views… Incredible Coastal Views and Intimate Luxury The Fallen Angel has some of the best coastal views in this region. It is a wonderful little, one-up-one-down, property. I highly recommend it to anyone who’s looking for somewhere unique and very special, perhaps in which to spend a special occasion with a loved one. Wedding anniversary? Honeymoon? Then the place offers a perfect getaway. Indeed, I’m told it’s popular with those who plan an “elopement wedding”, which I didn’t even know was a thing. The Inside Story: Romance, Architecture and Attention to Detail I do now, because my friend Rebecca Farrington-Turner told me so. Indeed, it was she who sent the invitation mentioned in the first paragraph. Because, with her husband Robin Turner, (the Cornish seafood expert well known to readers of these pages), Rebecca runs Indulgence Catering - a superb little outfit which often provides wondrous meals to those folk fortunate enough to have hired the Fallen Angel. More about them later, because they did indeed bring us a banquet we shall remember for months. A True Cornish Hideaway That Lives Up to Its Name But first, why do I keep using the phrase hideaway to describe a property which, as I’ve said, is perched above a village? Surely, you can’t have it both ways - either you’re tucked away or you are located in a situation which enjoys tremendous views? Well, one of the excellent things about this architect-designed property is that the shape of the one-up-one-down building follows the line of a slight tuck in the steep contours above Mousehole. As such, it has a tucked-away aspect - it does not shout its presence to those standing down on the quayside looking up at the hills behind. To quote the property’s blurb: “Set in its own sub-tropical gardens, every element of the creative architecture, landscaped garden and interior design has been thought through to deliver a decadent and relaxing hideaway for two.” Accessing the Fallen Angel: Secluded Yet Worth the Effort But this hideaway theme does perhaps point to the Fallen Angel’s one slight drawback. It is hard to find. You cannot drive to it, or even near it. Indeed, I’d recommend parking in the village’s quayside car-park and doing a recce on foot before dragging your luggage up through the narrow streets to find the steep path which eventually takes you to the steps leading to the old wooden door that seals-off the landscaped garden from the rest of the world. The Luxurious Interior of a High-End Cornish Holiday Rental However, once you’re behind that door - once you’ve climbed the steps between the palm trees and the Japanese style gravel terraces to the villa itself - you will realise what I mean about ‘hideaway’. Private bolt-hole might be better. Attractive and luxurious retreat would be even more accurate. Because this place is luxurious. One of the most luxurious holiday-homes I’ve stayed in, which is saying something, because I’ve stayed in a lot. Everything is well-thought-out and top-of-its-class. Even the toaster is the snazziest I have ever used. To use the phrase “well-appointed” wouldn’t quite do the Fallen Angel justice. Everything in it is superb, and that is before you look out of the panoramic wall-to-ceiling windows and admire the view. An Upside-Down Design Perfect for Scenic Living Like the last Cornish holiday villa we featured in Hesp Out West, it’s an upside-down property. And why not? If you’ve got superb panoramas why not let the upper storey be the main living area where you spend most of your waking time? So the Fallen Angel has a large living room-kitchen with a balcony upstairs, and a very cosy but almost equally panoramic bedroom underneath. So panoramic, in fact, that there’s even a large old antique bath at the foot of the bed which allows you to soak an hour away while still enjoying the views. Dining with Indulgence Catering: A Highlight of the Stay We’re running out of space because I need to talk about Indulgence Catering, but let me describe a stay in Mousehole’s Fallen Angel this way… My wife and I are great do-ers and explorers. Usually whenever we go anywhere, we get out and about spending morning, noon and night hiking, or dining out, or whatever. At the Fallen Angel we more-or-less stayed put. We had gorgeous weather a couple of weekends ago, so there was every excuse to get out and explore? But apart from one hike and a couple of visits to the village pub, we put our feet up, didn’t go anywhere near the car, and simply enjoyed being in this fabulous place. If that isn’t a recommendation to kick crazy tabloid headlines into touch, I don’t know what is. FAQ Where is The Fallen Angel? The Fallen Angel is a luxury holiday property overlooking the fishing village of Mousehole on Cornwall's spectacular south-west coast. Is The Fallen Angel suitable for couples? Yes. Designed for two guests, it offers a peaceful and romantic setting with exceptional sea views and luxurious interiors. What makes The Fallen Angel unique? Its striking contemporary architecture, panoramic views over Mount's Bay and dramatic upside-down design make it unlike almost any other holiday property in Cornwall. Can you walk into Mousehole from The Fallen Angel? Yes. The harbour, galleries, cafés and restaurants of Mousehole are within easy walking distance. What is there to see near Mousehole? Visitors can explore Mousehole harbour, nearby Newlyn, Penzance, St Michael's Mount, the Minack Theatre, Land's End and the dramatic coastline of West Penwith. Is The Fallen Angel open all year? Yes. The property is ideal for both summer holidays and cosy winter breaks, when its dramatic coastal setting is especially atmospheric. Is it a good base for exploring West Cornwall? Absolutely. It provides easy access to many of Cornwall's best-known attractions while offering a peaceful retreat away from the busiest tourist areas.

Aboard the Sea Cloud Spirit We’ve recently been on a voyage aboard there amazing Sea Cloud Spirit and I am writing about it in tomorrow’s newspapers - namely the Western Morning News and Western Daily Press. After that I’ll be putting up a number of articles on here. Embarking in Naples The journey on the Sea Cloud Spirit commenced in Naples. The ship proceeded to Capri, where guests disembarked in what turned out to be the most heavy rainstorm imaginable. All good fun though and we had plenty of time to dry off because we then sailed to Trapani on the west coast of Sicily - a journey which took 36 hours under full cavas. The next stop was Sicily’s capital, Palermo - a vibrant town if ever there was one. . The Sea Cloud Spirit then transited the Messina Strait, continuing to Giardini Naxos and Taormina. The stop off at Giardini Naxos was particularly pleasant as we were able to take a small boat ride and swim in the rolling sea. The itinerary included a stop in Syracuse before the ship’s final leg to Valletta, Malta. Here on the website we will be outlining much much more ab out this fantastic voyage. And just to prove I was there here’s me enjoying a magic moment on the Lido Deck of the amazing Sea Cloud Spirit….

There Ought to Be More of Them… There ought to be more of them… is what my friends and I were agreeing while driving home from the Three Counties Autumn Show at Malvern . We were talking about large-scale country shows that take place at this time of the year because we hugely enjoyed our visit to the show, which is billed as the “UK’s biggest harvest season celebration”. It offers the ultimate demonstration of something this nation can do very well indeed… We are capable of growing some very good food. A Shrine to the Best of British Produce I have never seen such glorious fruit and vegetables. The Harvest Pavilion at the show could be described as a shrine dedicated to top-notch plant-based food. My friends and I were staggered by the quality. By the way, we’re not talking here about the fabulous CANNA UK National Giant Vegetables Championship, which is a huge (in more ways than one) crowd-pleaser at Malvern. The pre-event advertising blurb declared: “Needs to be seen to be believed!” That was no exaggeration. The veggie beasts in question were amazing! Jaw-dropping! But despite being a fun thing to admire, giant veg does not exactly whet the taste-buds. Big applause to the growers, but the Land of the Giants does not translate to anything you’d want to put on a plate. The Harvest Pavilion: A Feast for the Eyes Unlike the glorious Harvest Pavilion where more than 100 Grow to Show classes had attracted entries of prime vegetables and fruits (as well as cut-flowers, alpines, succulents, and a lot more besides). I do not exaggerate when I say that, collectively, the competition represented a celebration of the best plant-based edible matter I have ever seen in these islands. The market baskets (to give them the technical name) or vegetable collection displays were simply stunning. Each one represented a harvest festival on steroids in its own right. A still-life painter’s dream. I am not a vegetarian, but if one of these was delivered to my door each week, I’d be happy to go meat-free. Why Aren’t There More Autumn Country Shows? So I did find myself wondering why there aren’t more in the way of large-scale country shows staged in autumn? After all, we’ve been in prime harvest season over the past month - the very best of British is on display in just about every rural county - so why not strut-your-stuff and show the world what you can do? Of course, there are historical reasons why many of the large county shows (such as the Royal Cornwall, Devon County, Bath & West and, indeed, the Royal Three Counties) are held in late spring or early summer. For them a central component is the livestock, and early summer provides an ideal time to show off farm animals. Cattle, sheep, and pigs can be in peak physical condition after spring-grazing and of course farmers are keen to show off their breeding stock to potential buyers and demonstrate the quality of their bloodlines before animals are sold to market. There’s also, traditionally, been a slight lull in the farming calendar after spring planting and before the demanding main harvest. Autumn Shows: A Celebration of the Harvest Autumn-based shows have a different focus - their aim is to celebrate the harvest itself, with an emphasis on horticulture, food, and produce. And there really was a great deal to enjoy at the Three Counties Show-ground last weekend. Besides the fabulous produce there was the Garden Theatre, hosted this year by August Bernstein, head of The Raymond Blanc Gardening School at Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons. He welcomed a range of special guests, including BBC Gardeners’ World presenters Monty Don OBE and Adam Frost. The Gardening Village was filled with impressive floral displays and seasonal bargains, where green-fingered visitors were eyeing up next season’s inspiration and browsing the Bulb Market with its specialist growers. The RHS Flower Show in the Floral Marquee was, needless to say, a true celebration of plants and flowers featuring stunning floral displays and rare and unusual plants. The Great Malvern Cake Off and More There was also the The Great Malvern Cake Off tent, hosted by chef, author and regular on ITV’s This Morning, Marcus Bean, who was joined by a host of familiar faces from The Great British Bake Off. All this alongside all the usual fun of the fair that you’d see at any large country show. Far too much to mention here - everything from the World Pole Climbing Championships to farmyard animal events, to “dinosaur experiences” and willow weaving demos… Not to mention a truly vast food hall which was one of the biggest and best I’ve seen at any country show. A Perfectly Timed Rural Celebration In a nutshell, the Three Counties Autumn Show is a major rural event that enjoys perfect timing. I’d recommend paying a visit next September if you can. Planning an Autumn Break? The Three Counties Autumn Show is an excellent excuse for a long weekend exploring the Malvern Hills, historic Great Malvern, Ledbury and the surrounding countryside. Early autumn is one of Britain's finest seasons, with orchards heavy with fruit, cider-making underway and woodlands beginning to turn gold. FAQ When is the Three Counties Autumn Show held? The show normally takes place in September at the Three Counties Showground in Malvern, celebrating the British harvest with farming, food and countryside traditions. Where is the Three Counties Autumn Show? The event is held at the Three Counties Showground near Malvern, on the borders of Worcestershire, Herefordshire and Gloucestershire. What can visitors see at the Three Counties Autumn Show? Visitors can enjoy livestock competitions, giant vegetables, food and drink producers, cider, countryside crafts, demonstrations, shopping, family entertainment and horticultural displays. Is the Three Counties Autumn Show suitable for families? Yes. There are activities for all ages including farm animals, machinery displays, equestrian events, food experiences and hands-on demonstrations. Why is the Three Counties Autumn Show famous? It is regarded as one of Britain's biggest celebrations of the harvest season and showcases the very best of British farming, food production and rural life.