The “Wrecker’s Coast” that thrusts it’s razor-backed rocks out into the Atlantic between Hartland Point and the Camel Estuary boasts some of the most dramatic and savage coastal scenery to be found anywhere in Europe. The list of local shipwrecks at the Hartland Quay Museum is enough to bear witness to the savagery of this littoral. Heading for Hartland Quay we pass a small building just before the road descends to the pub and the museum, and in a way the place helps tell part of the coast’s story. The Rocket House, now a modest dwelling with a big view, was once the home of an award winning rescue service known as the Hartland Life Saving Apparatus Company. Before the days of the RNLI and helicopters, rockets were a shipwrecked sailor's best friend, reaching the parts of a sinking ship that other methods simply could not. Needless to say, the rocket squads who worked from here were among the busiest rescuers anywhere in the country, firing their rockets and lines to many a vessel swept onto this windward shore. The museum at Hartland Quay was founded in 1980 in order to preserve material relating to the history and character of this extraordinary coast. It occupies two upper rooms of the historic quay buildings, which once housed the families of coastguards, labourers and tradesmen in the days when the place was once – amazingly, given its crazy location - a thriving port. Turning south along the coast we come to Screda Point, before descending to the strange demesne around St Catherine’s Tor – a steep hill that’s been chopped in half by the sea. On the other side of the tor there’s Speke’s Mill Mouth with its waterfall, which is one of the tallest in the region. The views south are certainly of the stunning variety, the cliffs are contorted into an insane and rocky dance. I was reminded of something I’d read in the Handbook for Travellers in Devonshire written by a J. Murray in 1879. “No words,” say Sedgwick and Murchison (whoever they were), “can exaggerate the number and violence of these contortions, - sometimes in regular undulating curves - sometimes in curves broken at their points of contrary flexure, and exhibiting a succession of cusps, like regular pointed arches.” When it comes to place names, Welcome Mouth is a bit of a sick joke. Nowhere could be less welcoming. The men aboard the ships Maggie, Cornelia, Nancy, Leopoldin Baur, Edward Beck and Avonmore must have thought it to be the most inhospitable place on Earth as they wrecked upon its razor-backed reefs. All those vessels went to their doom hereabouts. Travelling south again we come to atmospheric Morwenstow, the sepulchral hamlet which hangs above the razor rocks of Cotton Beach, Higher Sharpnose Point and cynically named Lucky Hole. The good folk of Morwenstow may have occasionally been called “wreckers” – but they probably never bothered resorting to setting up dodgy lights in order to lure ships to their doom. The wind, the sea and those terrible rocks are so well orchestrated in their overture of destruction, they need no help in dealing with little ships armed with nothing more than canvas wings. In the days of sail, such vessels caught off here in the wrong wind were mere moths in a storm Morwenstow Church nestles in its wooded graveyard over-looking the sea. Rooks caw and flurry about in the wind which moans through the bent old trees as you cross the stile by the lych-gate and enter a demesne that seems to belong to another dimension. That sensation used to be something to do with the white ship's figure-head that until recently dominated the cemetery. At the moment it’s away for renovation, but it used to mark the grave of Captain Peter and many of his sorry men, who died nearby, back in 1842. They had been on the brig Caledonia, out from Rio de Janiero via Syra, Smyrna and Constantinople when her luck began to wane. It started when she reached the eastern Mediterranean where the cook was badly injured in a knife fight with an innkeeper. What a rude awakening those wine and sun-soaked men must have had when they saw the cliffs of the Sharpnose one cold black dawn. Captain Peter ordered the men up the rigging as the Caledonia was pushed onto the rocks by the hard-blowing NNW gale, but no sooner had they climbed it the mast came down killing most of them. There were only two survivors: a tortoise, which somehow managed to swim ashore to be collected by a local boy - and mariner Edward le Dain who was found, much be-draggled but alive, by a farmer the following morning. If he had any luck at all it was that he had washed up here during the time of the Reverend R.S. Hawker, the eccentric, intellectual and humanitarian parson. The famous old parson's hut (below) can still be visited down on the edge of the cliffs, thanks to the National Trust, and is reckoned to be one of the smallest buildings the organisation owns. Gaze out at the ocean from the hut’s snug interior and you can almost feel the mental presence of Hawker next to you - puffing away at his opium, dreaming up new ideas such as the Church of England's Harvest Festival and writing lines like: "And shall Trelawney die? Here's twenty thousand Cornishman Will know the reason why!" Hawker also wrote about Bude, just a few miles down the coast: Thus said the rushing raven/ Unto his hungry mate,/ Ho! Gossip! For Bude Haven/ There be corpses six or eight./ Cawk! Cawk! Said the raven,/ I am score years and ten/ Yet never in Bude Haven/ Did I croak for rescued men. Parson Hawker knew only too well that Bude’s golden sands were simply a death trap. Here's a list of ships that foundered trying to either enter or leave the place in just two years, between 1867 and 1969: Alford, Ant, Capricorno, Elizabeth, Elizabeth Scown, Endeavour, Farmers Lass, Fortitude, Fusee 11, Giles Lang, Hawk, Island Belle, Kishon, Llandaff, Maria, Modeste Eugenie, Penally, President Garfield and Uncle John. There were others, especially before the mid-nineteenth century, but then the wreckers were quick to tidy up before the authorities could salvage cargoes and rescue crew. “Unless it is exceptionally fine weather you dare not stay out for the next tide,” I was once told by a local fisherman. “A depression out in the Atlantic can cause a big ground swell here and that means surf. And surf means trouble. You can get ten-foot waves. “The trick is to ride just behind the wave - the opposite to a surfer,” he told me when I asked how on earth the boatmen tackled entering through big waves. “It's a bit strange because you can't see where you're going because of the wave.” What the fishermen are heading for are the only lock gates that open directly into the Atlantic. They mark the end of the Bude Canal, built early in the 1820's to carry calcium rich sea sand to the farmers up in the Cornish and Devon hill-country where the soil was poor. It was a magnificent engineering feat and stretched nearly 35 miles from Bude to Launceston. Like most canals, this one was put paid to by the coming of the railways - it finally closed in 1891. But, thanks to those ocean-facing locks, the port of Bude remained in commercial use until the 1930's. they have recently been renovated and now offer a welcome haven to pleasure boaters and fishermen. Crackington Haven is the next indentation of any note along the coast, then we come to Boscastle – of late famed for its terrifying floods. But I recall much quieter times, sitting in the upturned bows of harbour-master Fred Siford's nautical garden feature surveying the human throng pouring over Cornwall's most secret port. Secret, that is, if you try entering Boscastle from the sea. For mariners who don't know the coast, North Cornwall's unwelcoming cliffs present - with the exception of Bude and its dangerous sands - an impermeable curtain from Padstow to Hartland Point. The fjord-like harbour at Boscastle is well disguised. A giant rock stack called the Meachard hides the entrance but, even if it didn't, you'd have difficulty spotting the gap in the curtain that would allow you to sneak into the one real haven in 40 miles. The tiny inlet twists and turns among its rocks in a determined attempt to hide the lush and verdant Valency Valley from the ocean's salty threat. Boscastle has a foot in two parishes, which are divided by the religious sounding River Jordan. Forraburry and Minster are both ancient - there were people mulling over the area's municipal affairs as far back as the Bronze Age. The people of the Iron Age settled a little bit later, and after that the Romans, then the Normans. A few remains of William de Botreaux’s castle can still be seen at the top of Dunn Street and many of Boscastle's older properties are based on thin strips of land that run down to the river and these are the remains of Norman burgage plots. Now we come to a fascinating bit of coast near Willapark and Bossiney Cove. Rocky Valley is one of the West Country’s closest kept secrets – few people enter this amazing ravine which leads inland to famous, but little visited St Nectan’s Glen. From here there’s a walk to celebrated St Piran’s Well, which some people regard as being the most important place in Cornwall. Even more legendary is much celebrated Tintagel Head and its world famous castle, otherwise known as The Island. English Heritage run the place nowadays and you must pay an entry fee if you want to explore the place where possibly good King Arthur was conceived. We pass Tintagel Haven (where they once traded in boats, against all the odds) and climb towards Barras Nose, which was the first coastal property the National Trust ever owned. From up here you wonder at the antics of the old slate quarrymen who used to dangle hereabouts in their vertiginous attempts to relieve the cliffs of their booty. “I live in a street with 32 addresses," says Port Isaac's former postmaster, Jon Cleave. "Only four of them are permanent homes.” Walk through the myriad cobbled streets of this most famous of tourist honey-pots on a winter's day and you'll witness the results of this remarkable statistic. There is a forsaken, deserted - even abandoned - demeanour about the place. Middle Street, Dolphin Street and Rose Hill all look pretty enough, but they're too pretty by half and so have become the part-time preserve of the well-healed from cities. Second homes and holiday properties don't exactly rattle with life in the depths of winter and it is difficult now to imagine the days when village women would load thousands of tons of Delabole slate onto the schooners that used to ply in and out of here. Somewhat fittingly, we leave the wreckers coast by visiting tiny, quiet Port Quin, which is the last stop before the coast rounds The Rumps and Pentire Head to reach the Camel Estuary and Padstow. The entire male population of this once busy place was wiped out in a single terrible storm in the winter of 1697. Records have it that the village's herring fleet was completely destroyed, though it's not clear how many lives were lost. But then, no one will ever know just how many thousands of poor sailors have met their ends along this beautiful, but terrible, coast.

Any Excuse to Head West: A Journey Through West Cornwall The Meaning of Hesperian The Oxford Dictionary defines "Hesperian" as an "inhabitant of a western land," making it a fitting term for someone named Hesp. Especially when that land is bathed in Atlantic salt spray. Exploring West Cornwall In keeping with the spirit of these pages, it was time for another westward journey—this time to West Cornwall. The trip included a visit to Porthleven for the relaunch of Jude Kereama’s successful Kota restaurant and a stay at the newly refurbished Treloyhan Manor in St Ives. Additionally, a trip to Zennor, one of the most scenic villages in the South West, was in order. Zennor recently gained national attention when Sir Michael Morpurgo mentioned it on BBC’s Today programme while discussing his new play, White Horse. The Timeless Charm of Zennor Zennor holds a special place in my heart. As I sat in the historic Tinner’s Arms recently, I realized I had been visiting the village for 50 years. It was the perfect time for a nostalgic hike, especially given Zennor’s legendary connection to mermaids. The Mermaid of Zennor Legend has it that a mermaid from Pendour Cove fell in love with Matthew Trewhella, a local singer with a captivating voice. Unable to resist his songs, she ventured onto land, eventually convincing Matthew to join her beneath the waves—never to be seen again. Some say his ghostly singing can still be heard at sunset. Walking Around Zennor Head For those with limited time, the lasso-shaped route from Zennor village to the coast and back provides stunning views with minimal effort. The two-mile walk is easygoing and offers breathtaking sights, including the legendary Pendour Cove. DH Lawrence on Zennor The acclaimed writer DH Lawrence, who once lived in Zennor, beautifully captured its essence: "At Zennor one sees the infinite Atlantic, all peacock-mingled colours, and the gorse is sunshine itself. Zennor is a most beautiful place: a tiny granite village nestling under high shaggy moor-hills and a big sweep of lovely sea beyond, such a lovely sea, lovelier even than the Mediterranean..... It is the best place I have been in, I think." I wholeheartedly agree. Over the years, I have frequently explored these moors and cliffs, relishing their untamed beauty. Directions for the Walk Park in the village and resist the temptation of the Tinner’s Arms before setting off. From the church, a small lane leads through a farmyard where a choice of footpaths emerges. Take the left path towards the South West Coast Path. If time permits, explore the historic granite church first, which is linked to the legendary St. Senara. The path winds down to the sea cliffs, where spectacular views await. Those keen on a longer adventure can extend the walk towards Carnelloe Cliff, but for this trip, the plan was to return to St Ives for an evening at Kota’s relaunch. Treloyhan Manor: A Luxurious Stay in St Ives The History of Treloyhan Manor Located just above St Ives, Treloyhan Manor was built in 1892 by Edward Hain, a local shipping magnate. Designed by renowned Cornish architect Silvanus Trevail, this grand residence has been transformed into a collection of beautifully appointed self-catering apartments by the Carbis Bay Estate. Modern Comforts and Stunning Views Treloyhan offers 18 residences, ranging from one to three bedrooms, as well as two-bedroom townhouses with spectacular bay views. Guests enjoy access to the Carbis Bay Estate’s C Bay Spa and restaurants, with concierge services available on-site. Private chefs can be arranged for in-residence dining experiences. Treloyhan’s prime location makes it easy to explore St Ives and Carbis Bay, with direct access to the coastal path. Rates: From £300 per night Website: Treloyhan ManorTel: 01736 795311 Email: Reservations@treloyhanmanor.co.uk Kota’s Relaunch: A Fresh Take on Cornish Cuisine A New Direction for Kota Porthleven’s beloved Kota restaurant has undergone a major transformation. Owner Jude Kereama and head chef Ross Sloan have introduced a fresh concept inspired by Cornish and Basque culinary traditions. Introducing Cornish ‘Pinxos’ Jude explains: “Kota’s style of food has continually evolved since we launched back in 2006, but we are shaking things up with a new approach. Cornish ‘pinxos’ is at the heart of our new offering – small, flavourful dishes complementing the wine expertise of our front-of-house team, giving customers a new and engaging dining experience.” The concept celebrates Cornwall’s maritime and cultural ties with northern Spain. The menu features oysters (Kota means “shellfish” in Maori), kroketas (Basque-style croquettes), Gordal olives, and daily specials. Meat dishes include tartare or carpaccio options, while vegetarian dishes highlight seasonal produce. The fish selection changes daily, depending on the local catch. Kota’s Signature Tasting Menu For those seeking a full culinary experience, Kota continues to offer a six-course chef’s tasting menu crafted by Ross Sloan, priced at £75 per person. When I was staying at the Treloyhan Manor recently, I took advantage of a wonderful local taxi company, A2B Taxis Cornwall so that I could get over to Porthleven (and back after a few glasses of wine) for the Kota relaunch… About A 2 B Taxis Cornwall Premium Vehicles: The fleet includes a variety of high-quality vehicles that ensure comfort and safety for every journey. Versatile Services: Whether it's airport transfers, business meetings, or local tours, A2B caters for all travel requirements with professionalism and efficiency. 200 cars and 300 staff. Experienced Drivers: A2B’s drivers are not only experienced and courteous but also possess extensive knowledge of Cornwall, ensuring you reach your destination promptly and safely. Competitive Pricing: The company offers competitive rates without compromising on the quality of service, making us an ideal choice for businesses looking for reliable transportation solutions. Website: https://link.edgepilot.com/s/b941c054/M3DQwQUHRUuuhAN5ua2V-A?u=https://a2btaxistruro.com/ Telephone number: 01872 272989 Final Thoughts From scenic coastal walks and historic legends to fine dining and luxurious stays, West Cornwall has it all. Whether you’re drawn to Zennor’s mystical charm, St Ives’ elegant retreats, or Porthleven’s innovative cuisine, this western land continues to enchant and inspire.

It’s cold outside today. Cold for the UK, that is. Go up on a ridge and face east and the windchill factor will hit your face at around minus 7 or 8 centigrade, which is nippy for us Brits. But I’ve been in places which are much much colder - and shall never forget walking around Whitehorse in the Yukon one morning when the temperature had dipped to around minus 35c. It was so cold that, although i was wrapped up very warm indeed with multiple layers, my thick duck-down filled coat let me down just a bit because the wind went straight through the zip and sort of sliced me down the middle like a surgeon’s knife. Later I borrowed a Canada Goose coat which was completely fantastic in that I survived hours of dog-sledding or whatever in temperatures dipping well below minus 40c. Those coats are miraculous. I’d definitely have one if I lived in the Yukon - but they cost about £1500 and we just don’t get the colder weather here in England like we used to. I much prefer a cold winter to a wet one, I know that. And I enjoyed our cold-weather walk today. The concept of winter can be a welcome one, even if it is a season we are glad to see the back of. Unless, that is, we think of an iconic winter which is rich in all the most exciting things that the great cold can provide. I’m talking about the kind of truly classic winter pastimes like dog-sledding or snow-mobile travel - chilly images that speak of deep, snow-filled, forests and remote communities near the Arctic Circle where great white drifts sit deep on every roof. But as the climate changes and our old-fashioned winters disappear, I’ve got a feeling there is an increasing appetite for such a thing - and I can say that after spending a couple of winter weeks in the Yukon a few years ago. What you get in Canada’s vast empty north-east quarter is winter writ big. Just being there, in temperatures that can dip to minus 50 degrees, is an adventure. Looking out of your hotel window at the all-embracing deepfreeze is a thrill. And travelling around in a place that is as big as Western Europe but which only has a population half that of a town like Taunton is, somehow, breathtaking and astonishing. Whitehorse is classified as a city, but it only has a population of just over 25,000. I liked it a lot and spent a few days there wandering around on my own a lot before heading off in to the wintry wilderness with a group of journalists. The tourism office guide took me out in the evenings and we had great fun - eating wonderful food I remember. But I shall never forget spending four hours walking around Whitehorse and its environs all on my own on the very first morning after I’d arrived on a midnight flight. I awoke to find a curious blob of rainbow just hanging above the town. I asked if these “sundogs” as they are known, were common in the Yukon and was told they weren’t. So it made the start of my stay feel rather special… For guides and maps contact Tourism Yukon on 020 8339 6152 or visit www.travelyukon.com Martin travelled with Air Canada – check out flights and times at www.aircanada.com

There’s a hole in the ground on a windswept moor in Cornwall where ravens go to be lonely and a few stonechats chirrup, and not a lot else happens at all. Thickets have long since choked the misshapen crater, so you can’t climb into it – you can’t even really see where it begins and where it ends. We’re on the top of Tregonning Hill - a very important place in Cornwall’s history but somewhere that is seldom visited by tourists. A strange kind of place. Strange, unless you know something of the hole’s history – then you begin to realise why someone should declare it to be a very special place indeed. This crater in the lofty airy bosom of Cornwall led to the employment of hundreds of thousands of men. Its story bequeathed the county countless £millions. Its white powdery progeny is to be found everywhere – a large percentage of the man-made things you touch will contain it. Indeed, you’ve probably touched something containing William Cookworthy’s magic ingredient already this morning. If you live in Cornwall or South Devon, you may also have seen the physical results of his work. No man in the history of the West Country has had such a far-reaching effect on the region as the Kingsbridge weaver’s son who was born just over 300 years ago today. What follows is an article I wrote about Cookworthy many years ago. The China Clay industry in Cornwall has changed a lot since then - in an ever shrinking kind of way, it has to be said. The company mentioned below and some of the facts and figures which were correct 16 years ago when I wrote the piece are probably no longer relevant. But it’s worth repeating anyway - because it is a hell of a story - and so few of those millions of tourists crossing over the Tamar to the west will have any idea that it ever existed… Not only did Cookworthy’s discoveries change the face of large swathes of the Cornish and Devon landscapes forever, but they provided employment for many, many thousands over the best part of those three centuries. And it is true to say you will have already benefited from the results of Cookworthy’s work this morning before reading this newspaper. There would have been china clay in the light switch. There’d have been quite a lot of it in the washbasin and the toilet. You could even have found it in your toothpaste. Someone, sooner or later, would probably have discovered the value of the seemingly worthless West Country clay if Cookworthy hadn’t been inspired by his stroke of genius in the 1740’s – but the fact remains that the humble weaver’s son from South Devon was the man who got their first and he was awarded an all-important patent to prove it. William Cookworthy was born on April 12 1705, the son of a Quaker from Kingsbridge. The Quakers tended to look after one another and in 1719, at the age of 14, young Cookworthy was taken on as an apprentice by Silvanus Bevan, a Quaker chemist and druggist from in London. The Devon boy had to make the 200 mile journey to the capital on foot as he had no money for the coach fare. But the trip was worth it - he was obviously a bright lad – in addition to his training in dispensary, William also learned Latin, Greek and French, as well as metallurgy. So bright, in fact, that after seven years Bevan offered him a position in a new wholesale pharmacy business he was setting up in Plymouth. By 1735 they were partners and his influence in the business grew when he took on his late wife’s brother to form “Cookworthy and Company”. This gave William more time to spend on his real interests and he began to experiment in chemistry and metallurgy. He also found time to read – and it was a chance perusal of a journal written by a Jesuit missionary which first set him on the trail of china clay. The missionary gave an account of porcelain manufacture in China, and this fired William’s imagination. His thoughts on the subject were further inspired when three Americans visited him with samples of Virginian clay and porcelain in 1745. By this time the Cookworthy business was really flourishing, supplying merchant ships calling at Plymouth. It’s said that he even fell into disagreement with the Society of Apothecaries when he ignored the monopoly which Queen Anne had granted to them to supply Naval ships. The Virginian visitors were involved in a business importing clay through the port of Bristol, but at that time English potters were only able to produce types of ‘earthenware’ - real porcelain was imported from China, where the clay used was known as ‘kaolin’. In 1746 Cookworthy was invited down to Cornwall to visit Great Work Mine at Tregonning Hill, near Helston. As he looked around he was fascinated to observe that miners were repairing furnaces with a local clay, which they called “moorstone” or “growan clay”, noticing that it seemed to survive the high temperatures without cracking. He borrowed a spade and took some samples back to Plymouth where he conducted various experiments. It soon became apparent that the material was capable of making an excellent porcelain and William lost no time in leasing several of the clay pits in the Tregonning Hill area. But the clay contained large quantities of mica and soon deposits of a superior quality were found on land owned by Thomas Pitt (who became Lord Camelford in 1784) in the parish of St Stephen’s, near St Austell – and this area is still the main site of extraction today. Pitt put money into Cookworthy’s venture and in December 1766 they set up a small factory called the Plymouth China Works where William continued experimenting to find the best ways of processing, glazing and firing his beloved clay. On March 17th 1768 Cookworthy obtained a patent for “Making porcelain from Moorstone, Growan and Growan Clay”. It gave him the exclusive right to use china clay for porcelain manufacture. The Plymouth works produced the UK’s first home-manufactured hard paste porcelain. Jugs, vases and decorated tea services were made, but the venture wasn’t exactly earning big bucks so Cookworthy amalgamated it with a pottery in Bristol. His cousin, Richard Champion, became manager of “William Cookworthy and Company” – and the rest is history. A history, as we’ve said, that changed the face of Cornwall and Devon. More and more potteries started using porcelain and demand grew. Many of potteries acquired rights to mine their own clay and mid-Cornwall went through something akin to a kaolin-Klondike. The craze for clay grew even further in the mid-nineteenth century when it was discovered that the material could also be used in the manufacture of paper industry. It was all pretty cut-throat out there in the Cornish “Alps” - as the area north of St Austell became known thanks to its white conical heaps of unwanted granite sand. By the early 1900’s more than 70 separate companies were digging away at the hills. There was huge price competition, but there were no set standards on the quality of the material mined. It was a somewhat anarchic market to say the least. Over production was rife and there was little capital investment being made into the industry. The working conditions were said to be pretty poor and wages were low. However, it was undoubtedly a strongly positioned industry – the West Country china clay pits held a virtual world monopoly over production. And it was good for the British economy, more than three-quarters of the output went abroad to places like the USA and Europe. The industry desperately needed regulating and, not long after the First World War was over, three of the leading producers amalgamated to form English China Clays (ECC) Limited – a company which oversaw more than half the entire South West capacity. The multinational minerals company IMERYS eventually bought ECC and is now (in 2004) the world’s largest producer of china clay – with 39 percent of its production coming from Cornwall and four percent from Devon. The company obviously believes there’s a huge future in West Country china clay – it has invested £106 million within the UK over the last five years and is planning go invest a further £27 million in 2005. At this point I must introduce a man called Ivor Bowditch, who was community public relations manager for IMERYS at the time I wrote the article. I interviewed Ivor several times over the years and learned a great deal about the China Clay industry from him - he was passionate about the industry and knew absolutely everything there was to know about it… Anyway, to go back to the 2004 article… Ivor has an encyclopaedic knowledge of the industry, and he told me: “Cookworthy died in 1780 with the knowledge that his patent had been modified to allow the Staffordshire potters to use china clay, but with little knowledge of how the industry would have developed. He would undoubtedly be amazed at the scale of the industry today and the technology we use. “For 100 years after he’d patented the use of china clay, the industry employed little over 200 people. But as the demand for clay grew from mid-19th century the number of companies, together with those employed, increased dramatically to a point around 1900 when there were probably some 5000 people working in china clay here in the South West.” After the two world wars the figure eventually peeked at 6,000, but Mr Bowditch explained how advances in technology and mechanisation had brought the number of people employed in the industry down to 2,500, the present number employed. “The industry has had a far reaching effect on local employment and commerce,” Mr Bowditch went on. “Over the past 50 years china clay has led the way in developing educational standards by employing large numbers of apprentices who’ve been trained in various technical disciplines. It is a fact that a large number of successful engineering activities within the mid-Cornwall area have been developed on back of the china clay industry’s requirement for skilled people. “The industry has been at the forefront of technical development and continues to operate a large research and development facility employing 140 scientists who provide a scientific base for IMERYS’ much larger global operations.” It was Mr Bowditch who came up with the line about how much china clay the average person comes into contact with first thing kin the morning: “By time readers see this article in the morning they will have used a lot of china clay,” he beamed with obvious pride. “It will have been in the light-switch, in the toothpaste, even in the newspaper. The car you drive will have whole range of components that include china clay - from the electrics to the facia panels, from the paint to materials in the tyres. In a high quality performance engine it may well be that components have been cast in a mould made from china clay based products. “Rolls Royce use it in their aero engine components – you’ll even find materials supplied by IMERYS in the turbine blades of the latest jet engines.” The weaver’s son from Kingsbridge could never have realised just how far-reaching – on an global scale - his unearthing of some humble, white, Cornish mud would turn out to be. Sidebar 1 Excerpt from Parliamentary papers of 1768: “Patent, dated the 17th March 1768, granted to William Cookworthy, of Plymouth, Chymist, for the sole Use and Exercise of a Discovery of Materials of the same Nature as those of which the Asiatic and Dresden Porcelain are made, were produced to your Committee, and read: “That he has great Experience in several of the China Manufactures, and has made several Trials upon all of this which have been manufactured in England, and finds that all of them, except that of Bristol, were destroyed in the same Fire that brings Bristol to perfection. And he produced to your Committee several Samples of the said Kinds of China, which showed the Effects upon them severally; and said, that they have not been able to bring the Bristol China to a marketable Commodity, that they can afford it at a Price equal to Foreign China of equal Goodness, and that they have made some Specimens equal to good Dresden; that he had not seen any Dresden ornamental China equal to the Vases produced to your Committee, nor any Thing in Biscuit equal to the Biscuit in those Vases, and other Ornaments…” The document goes on at some length, but the “Bristol” referred to was the name given to Cookworthy’s porcelain – his company having been merged with a Bristol pottery to produce chinaware of a high quality. Sidebar 2 Cookworthy timeline: 1705: April 12, William Cookworthy born at Kingsbridge, South Devon, son of a Quaker weaver. 1719: Cookworthy is taken on as an apprentice chemist in London. 1726: Given a position in a new wholesale pharmacy business in Plymouth. 1735: Becomes partner in company. 1740’s: Reads missionary accounts of special clays – known as kaolin - being used in the manufacture of porcelain in China. Also meets three Americans selling Virginian clays through the port of Bristol. 1746: Cookworthy discovers clays known locally as “moorstone” being used to patch up mine furnaces near Helston. He spends years experimenting with the local clay. 1766: Sets up small factory trial porcelain items are manufactured. 1768: Cookworthy obtains a patent for “Making porcelain from Moorstone, Growan and Growan Clay” - giving him the exclusive right to use china clay for porcelain manufacture. 1773/74: Sells company to cousin, Richard Champion made manager. Cookworthy sells his interests to Richard and retires. 1777: Richard Champion attempts to renew the patent, but Josiah Wedgwood and other Staffordshire potters raise objections. Use of china clay was released to enable the manufacture of other ceramic products provided that the formula was not infringed. 1782: Champion sells formula to the New Hall Porcelain Company, which had been formed by the Staffordshire potters. 1780: October 17th Cookworthy dies and is buried in the family vault in the Westwell Street Burial Ground, Plymouth.

Some call him The Codfather, but to thousands of food-lovers across north and west Devon, he is Dan the Fishman. A few even know him by his real name, Dan Garnett - but whatever you call him, this avuncular purveyor of seafood is very good fun to be around. Which is why, year after year, I took up Dan’s invitation to attend a beach picnic in a bid to celebrate the fruits of the sea in general and the fruits of the North Devon area fishery in particular. Beach cooking with Dan the Fishman It was, after all, one of the first sea-areas in the world where a no-take zone was put in place - a concept which eventually led to the Marine Conservation Zones which now surround British coasts. And it was the local fishermen themselves who originally instigated the seasonal no-go area known as The Lundy Box after they realised it acted as a kind of nursery for the fish which provide them with a living. But it is Dan’s passion for the harvest of the ocean which so many of his Devon customers (and WMN readers) find attractive. And the reason we like to go on his seaside seafood picnics every year is to help him spread some of the enthusiasm. Having said that, we’ve not been able to gather for such a celebration for two long years, which is why we were so pleased to head to the shoreline this week for a socially-distanced cook-up at a secret location on the Clovelly coast. Dan, who lives in the area, had been given permission by the owners of the Clovelly Estate for us to drive down private forestry rides so we could reach an isolated cove with all our cooking equipment and therefore be far from the madding crowd. Because that’s one of the things about these annual seaside get-togethers… We always attract a large crowd of interested folk who just happen to be at whatever the location is - and Dan is very generous when it comes to handing out mackerel butties, cartons of seafood soup and other tasty morsels. Perhaps not the wisest idea at present, even if the pandemic threat is receding. Anyway, down down down we went to a remarkable beach somewhere between Clovelly and Hartland Point and, once there, our regular “Fish Crew” helped set up a mobile kitchen so we could begin preparing the enormous five-course seafood lunch Dan had planned. “This is a stretch of shore known as the Iron Coast - it was a graveyard of ships in the old days,” Dan told me. “It’s a bit of a secret really - you can’t drive here, you can only walk to this beach along the coast path. It’s a little bit of heaven. Coal barges used to come across from Wales to this bay and donkeys would take their cargo up to the lime kilns. There even used to be cannibals living here long ago. Look it up! When they found the King of Bucks Mills, they found bones in a cave - and they weren’t animal bones. They were human! “Anyway, this place is a lovely welcome back after Covid. We are going to cook some rather nice fish landed at Appledore Quay. Real fish for real people. We’ve got five courses, starting with oysters served with some fruity green Tabasco, moving on to local lobster and a little bit of crab with mayo. “There are some amuse-bouche, like really good smoked salmon and barbecued prawns in a chilli sauce. The main course is turbot and we are going to stuff it with beautiful herbs and a few scallops…” Asked about the big controversy presently surrounding the fish-eating world since a highly critical documentary called Seaspiracy was launched on Netflix, Dan commented: “I am sure there are some awful practices going on elsewhere in the world, but the way we fish here is highly sustainable. It’s day-boat fishing and it is highly environmentally sensitive. “The fishing community started the first marine reserve around Lundy Island, long before we were asked to anything like that. And we are part of the North Devon Biosphere here,” said Dan, who always talks very passionately about sustainability. “What we need to do is rebuild the trust between the scientists, the politicians, the fishermen and others. If we don’t work in harmony, there is no future for us. “We operate a responsible fishing scheme - what we have here off the North Devon coast is good clean water and fish which are caught locally. All I do is provide a small sustainable living for myself and the fishermen. “There is a great future for us,” Dan added with his usual optimism. “And, most of all, it tastes jolly good. This is not industrial food - this is wild food which was landed yesterday afternoon. All I’ve done is loaded it into the van, and here we are. People come to me on my market stall because they trust me - people want to eat real food. We are an island nation - we’ve got a fantastic resource and if we manage it properly we can be eating it forever.” With that, we all got peeling, shucking, cleaning and cooking on the banks of a small stream which was flushing clear fresh water down onto a wild and dramatic-looking boulder beach. And it was, indeed, very good to be back. During the long dark months of lockdown I, like so many people, dreamed of spending a day with friends at the seaside. And here we were at last… Laughing, joking, getting stuck in with the preparations and eating some of the best freshest fish I’ve seen in more than 18 months. “I’ve lived here for 42 years and it’s living the dream,” said Dan, whose stall can be found at markets in Tavistock, Crediton, Bideford and South Molton. “Coastal living is wonderful and we produce some of the best food in the country in this area.” RECIPES Today’s recipes are specially suited to beach cooking on a small barbecue and they’ve been borrowed from a brilliant new cookbook by Cornish chef Emily Scott. Many readers will know that Emily recently took over the dramatic seaside restaurant which used to house Jamie Oliver’s Fifteen Cornwall, having cooked at her much-celebrated St Tudy Inn just a few miles inland for many years. The new book Sea & Shore, is a joy for anyone who lives in the West Country and who has access to the region’s superb larder. SEA & SHORE by Emily Scott is published by Hardie Grant at £26 - photography: Kim Lightbody. LOBSTER OVER FIRE WITH FINES HERBES “There is nothing better than lobsters cooked to order over coals,” writes Emily - and indeed we did just that at Dan’s seafood picnic. Serves 2 1 live lobster, about 650 g (1 lb 7 oz) 125 g (4 oz) unsalted butter, softened 2 garlic cloves, crushed 1 tablespoon olive oil zest and juice of 1 lemon 100 g (31/2 oz) tarragon, roughly chopped 100 g (31/2 oz) flat-leaf parsley, roughly chopped 100 g (31/2 oz) chives, roughly chopped Cornish sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste kitchen herbs and garden salad leaves, to serve Preheat a barbecue or the grill. Place the lobster on a chopping board. Insert a large, sharp, heavy knife into the cross on the back of the head and cut down towards the tail, cutting it in half. Remove the stomach and the black intestinal tract that may run through the middle of the tail and discard. (If you prefer, buy your lobsters already cooked from a trust local purveyor like Dan the Fishman). In a small pan, melt the butter with the crushed garlic and add the olive oil, lemon zest, lemon juice and chopped herbs. Brush the lobster flesh with the butter mixture, season with salt and pepper, then place on the barbecue, place flesh-side down and cook for 4–5 minutes. Baste the lobster with the butter mixture and keep basting from time to time until it is cooked through, about 5–6 minutes further. Serve on a plate with kitchen herbs and garden leaves. Emily Scott’s MONKFISH, CORNISH CHORIZO AND SUN BLUSH TOMATOES ON ROSEMARY SKEWERS “Here, the combination of monkfish, chorizo and sun blush tomatoes is delicious,” writes Emily. “Threading them on to rosemary skewers is pretty and adds a depth of flavour to the fish.” Serves 8 1 x 200 g (7 oz) jar sun blush tomatoes, drained, reserving the oil 1 medium chorizo, about 225 g (8 oz), cut into 1 cm (1/2 in) rounds 650 g (1 lb 7 oz) monkfish fillet, cut into chunks 12 long rosemary sprigs, plus extra leaves for sprinkling 100 ml (31/2 fl oz/scant 1/2 cup) olive oil Cornish sea salt and freshly ground black pepper To serve handful of rocket (arugula) leaves hot buttered Cornish new potatoes mixed leaf salad with edible flowers Preheat a barbecue. Place the sun blush tomatoes in a large bowl and add the sliced chorizo. Using a skewer, pierce a hole through each piece of monkish, then toss in the bowl with the tomatoes and chorizo. Thread alternately onto rosemary skewers, allowing 3 pieces of each ingredient on each skewer. Barbecue the monkfish skewers on all sides, keeping them moving, for a total of 6 minutes, or until browned at the edges. Drizzle with with olive oil and sprinkle with salt, pepper and rosemary leaves. Lay the grilled monkfish skewers on rocket leaves and serve with hot buttered Cornish new potatoes and a kitchen leaf salad with summer flowers.

A Life-Changing Meeting in a Jungle Cave One hot humid day last week I found myself clambering down from mountain crag to a remote cave high above the rain-forest. I happened to know that a well-known Buddhist guru would be there and I wanted a quiet word with him. Swathed in this saffron robes he beckoned me to sit next to him and we spoke, alone together, for 15 minutes. Even a cynical old newspaper hack like me was impressed. As you’d expect, the priest had a profound, calming and tranquil air about him. “The Secret is to Know the Moment” “The secret,” he sighed, “is to know yourself and to know the moment. To slow to a complete standstill and to really know yourself in that moment.” Then he added: “Not that I will be slowing down today. After I’ve seen you lot, I’ve got to dash to the airport and fly to Switzerland.” I couldn’t help but ask… “Why are you going there? To stash all the money those rich hippies give you in an untaxed Swiss bank account?” Perhaps the heat had got to me. This is very much not the sort of thing you say to a famous guru. But the priest burst into gales of laughter. He was going to the Alps to run a series of retreats for a month, but he chuckled: “That is funny. I like your sense of humour.” Which is when I decided to give away all my worldly possessions and spend the rest of my life serving as a monk in his jungle monastery, located at the very heart of beautiful, mysterious, magical, Sri Lanka. Not really. But for a moment or two I could imagine why some people do it. Reflections from the Road: A Journey Across Sri Lanka I write about this interlude because I shall never forget those 15 minutes. But then, I shall never forget a great many other incidents that I’ve experienced and observed over the past fortnight while enjoying an extensive road-trip right around the island of Sri Lanka. There are thousands of reasons why we leave the comfort of our homes and this particular strand of weekly articles is all about the more exciting, interesting and joyous things you can do when you’re out and about. “Experiential”. If there was one word to sum up the theme, that would be it. And, as I’ve alluded, I’ve just had my most “experiential” adventure since I started writing Hesp Out West. Indeed, so filled with rich experience, excitement and adventure was my recent journey, I’m going to divide my reflections into two articles. Exploring the Road Less Travelled in Sri Lanka Why had I climbed through a rain-forest to a remote cave to meet a guru? Because it was all part of a busy, fascinating and, in some ways, extreme itinerary devised by the British Guild of Travel Writers with Sri Lankan tourism. Extreme, because we adventured into just about every corner of that beautiful island - a journey that took us along 2000 kilometres of Sri Lanka’s crazy, scenic, hazardous, demanding and mesmerising roads. The itinerary was entitled The Road Less Travelled. By day-four we had changed that to Road More Travelled. Exhausting. At times too much. But I enjoyed every fascinating, joyous, mad and moving moment of it. Cave Temples and Ancient Wisdom in Ridigama That meeting with the guru is just one example… It occurred the day after we’d arrived after a direct long-haul flight from London with the excellent Sri Lankan Airlines. After a 6am start (following a wonderful gala dinner with Sri Lankan Tourism and the amazing Jetwing Hotel group) we found ourselves several hours north of Colombo visiting the Ridi Vihare Cave Temple, a 2nd-century Theravada Buddhist complex in the village of Ridigama. We were shown around by Dr. Sinharaja Thammita, one of the country’s leading experts on Buddhist history and our day-long tour included not only rock caves and meditation, but also a visit to the centre’s Jungle Hermitage where we had a special lunch. Craft, Culture and Sri Lankan Heritage Village dancers cavorted and span, and monks showed us how the nation’s oldest written records were made, not on vellum, but on long thin fermented layers of Ola leaf. The monks demonstrated the process and let us have a go at inscribing our names on the treated leaves with needle like pens. The marks were then made permanent by a form of ink which is handmade at the temple. Sigiriya and Jetwing’s Sustainable Tourism Vision All this was followed by another two hour journey up to Sri Lanka’s most visited landmark - the spectacular citadel of Sigiriya rising sheer and impregnable out of the plains. The next day we visited this UNESCO world heritage site (built by King Kashyapa 1600 years ago), but as I wrote about the imposing Lion Rock last year I won’t deliver another lecture here. Instead I’ll say something about Jetwing Hotels, many of which we stayed in during our journey. I don’t know about you, but belting around the planet leaves me with enough environmental guilt as it is, but sometimes the effects of tourism are enough to make you bow your head in shame. Not with Jetwing you won’t. Eco-Conscious Hospitality with Jetwing Hotels The family-owned group goes further than any other hotel corporation I’ve encountered to put sustainability at the forefront of its operations. After we’d spent our first night at the company’s beautiful Jetwing Lagoon Wellness complex at Nelumbo (near Colombo), we settled in for a couple of nights at the Jetwing Lake, set in a lush 18 acre park not far from the touristy area of Sigiriya. Plenty to do and see around there, I can assure you - but we were also given a tour of the hotel’s sewerage system, power plants and water filtration works. Despite my misgivings, I was hugely impressed. Many of their properties have wastewater treatment plants and onsite biogas digesters to deal with food waste. They have banned single-use plastics, they filter the local water in-house to make it healthy and drinkable (rather than import branded drinking water), they even have a state-of-the-art reed-bed system to help clean the sewerage. Added to that, Jetwing Lake also obtains a great deal of its power from sustainable fuel sources such as off-cuts from the cinnamon industry, which help to power its generators, as does a large solar farm in the grounds. And they grow most of their own fruit and veg. Rural Life and Elephant Encounters We were taken to the nearby “eco-village” of Hiriwadunna (via oxen cart) where we enjoyed an organic lunch in an open-sided village house prepared by local women. There was also a boat ride across a wonderful lily-filled lake where the boatman made use weird and wonderful hats made from the leaves and flowers of water plants. Very cooling they were too on such a hot day. A tuk-tuk ride through forest paths took us back to the main road. We also went on the obligatory elephant safari in Habarana’s Hurulu Eco Park and duly saw a great many gentle giants wandering wild and free across. Northern Adventures and Southern Soul After two nights at Jetwing Lake we travelled north and I’m going to leave that part of the journey until next week as the upper half of Sri Lanka really is the road less travelled. It was the part most badly hit by the civil war - moreover, geographically and physically the area around Jaffna is very different from the south. So I’ll round off by talking about our final journey to the southern tip of the island, by which I mean the area around Matara and Galle. Tsunami Memorial and Galle Fort Readers may recall that the coast here was badly hit by the tsunami of 2004. So much has been written about it and the 40,000 plus victims who lost their lives I’ll not go into the disaster here. However, if you ever visit the area, do visit the Tsunami Honganji Viharaya, a Buddhist temple on the coast where a 30-metre tall statue will take your breath away. In a bad way. Why? Because it was built to show people just how terrifyingly high the wave was which hit the coast. It’s a miracle there were any survivors at all. Luxury and Local Impact at Malabar Hills Inland at Matara we had lunch at the lovely Malabar Hills hotel, which is very much an experiential kind of place, offering activities like bird watching and nature trekking (besides serving some of the best food in Sri Lanka). The hotel is involved with projects designed to employ and better the lives of local people - a wonderful thing in a country like Sri Lanka where money is short and wages are low. Batik-Making and Boutique Hotels in Galle One of the projects is a batik “factory” where local women produce beautiful designs to supply to the nation’s burgeoning fashion industry. And, of course, being a hotel led project we, as guests, were invited to have a lesson - which I thought would be a little boring and unnecessary in the heat but which turned out to be great fun. I am proud of my little square of batik which now sits on my desk. At Galle we did the usual things (looked around the old town and walked along the fortress walls). It’s a pleasant town - a tad touristy but interesting and lovely all the same. We also met up with our excellent guide, Danushka Weerasekara of Blue Lanka Tours, and he’d brought his lovely family into town to meet us. It was a joy and an honour to meet the family of this most intelligent and helpful of men. I’d happily spend a few days there next time I’m in Sri Lanka, maybe at the excellent Jetwing Lighthouse, a luxury resort perched on sea-cliffs just a mile north of town. A four night B&B stay there for two next week would cost around £455 - just over 50 quid each - not bad for such a high-end place. You could also stay up the coast at a delightful boutique hotel run by an Englishman and his Belgian wife. The Calamansi Cove resort is select and very beautiful - and it has one of the only safe beaches for swimmers along the entire coast. Ending the Journey in Colombo’s Skyline Our grand tour was rounded off with a stay at yet another Jetwing - this time the Jetwing Colombo Seven - a high-rise but extremely comfortable billet located in the heart of the capital, complete with rooftop bar and an adjacent infinity pool. The view you enjoy while swimming there is breathtaking - but so too was everything on this trip, and I haven’t yet told you the half of it… Parking at Heathrow It is 160 miles to Heathrow from our West Country base, so I booked meet and greet parking at the airport with the Holiday Extras group. Their system is cheap and easy to use - I’d recommend them if you are ever having to park near one of the airports they service. https://www.holidayextras.com/ If you’re visiting Sri Lanka do consider using our tour guides Blue Lanka Tours, they are among the best in the business - https://www.bluelankatours.com/ And if you are after a really luxurious stay while you are in such a hot and busy country, consider Jetwing Hotels - they are truly fantastic with their highly sustainable practices and the have properties all over the country. https://www.jetwinghotels.com/

Few places in Britain inspire quite the devotion of St Ives. Famed for its golden beaches, bustling harbour, world-class art galleries and winding granite streets, this Cornish town has long been regarded as one of the country's most beautiful seaside destinations. I have put the article up here because, in some ways, it now acts almost as a historic document. St Ives has changed quite a bit since I went there for my Hesp’s Harbours series, which appeared in the Western Morning News for a whole year. The Magic of St Ives , Cornwall The harbour at St Ives must be one of the most celebrated havens to feature on Britain's proud roster of picture-perfect ports and, judging by the crowds that fill its narrow cobbled streets throughout the year, it's certainly one of the most visited—even if it is at the far end of the West Country peninsula. Perhaps it's the perfect pale golden sand that draws them in. Maybe it's to do with all those artists who've done so much to promote the town's wonderful intensity of light. Or possibly it's the salty, maritime charm which the place exudes with more panache and exotic mystique than a dozen other, more nautical ports. Why Tourists Love Visiting St Ives You could almost draw an analogy with one of those big Premiership football clubs that attracts supporters from all over the world. Come rain or shine, the fans pass through the turnstiles in their droves. It's a magic no one can quite explain. St Ives is like that. On a Tuesday morning in a grey drizzle, it will have more faithful enthusiasts plodding its cobbled streets, munching its pasties, observing its art, hiring its motorboats, drinking its ale, throwing money into its arcades, purchasing its sometimes awful Cornish gifts, riding its waves, castellating its sand and generally soaking up the atmosphere of all things Cornish and shanty-esque than any other port in the West. Iconic Things to Do in St Ives To many tourists, a visit to Cornwall's far west that did not include a dawdle along The Digey, a paddle on Porthmeor, a carouse in Carbis Bay, or a saunter on Smeaton's Pier would be like partaking of a very good dinner without a bottle of wine. The place is quite literally an icon of the seaside. It is a living, working theme park that seems to say: "I've got more salt in me veins than a dozen Polperros or Looes." The Disappearing Pilchard Industry of St Ives And it's a clever con trick because the very essence that makes St Ives sing like a mental sea-shanty is no longer there. The massive pilchard industry which shaped the picturesque Downlong area of town has completely disappeared. This was where the poorer fishermen lived among their many curing sheds and net lofts, as opposed to the "Uplong" area where the well-to-do merchants, sea captains, and professionals once based themselves. A Saint, a Sandbank, and the Origins of St Ives If you had visited "Downlong" before the Irish martyr St. Ia landed here more than a millennium ago, you'd have found very little but a sand bank stretching across to the Island which is nowadays one of St Ives' best known landmarks. The sand bank separated Porthmeor Beach from what is now the harbour and it was here that St Ia washed up. She was to give the place its name and in some ways it is typical of the ephemeral and mysterious quality of St Ives that she should arrive riding upon a leaf. Most of those Irish saints crossed the sea on inflated cow's stomachs or hurdles. St Ia chose a leaf. But she ended up the same way as all her saintly pals. "Off with her head!" roared Theodoric, King of Cornwall. And then all that was left was a name to bestow upon a tiny fishing village and later a parish church. How St Ives Rose in Prominence So much for early history. It was Lelant, just two miles along the coast, which played Big Brother in those days, and continued to do so until the restless sands of the Towans blew in and strangled its growth. Then at last, St Ives could grab the limelight, partly thanks to the wonderfully named Lord Broke, who had acquired the local manor and who, in 1488, managed to get a charter for a weekly market and two annual fairs. A Dark Moment in Cornish Rebellion History Lord Broke! I'll bet he wasn't — broke, I mean — and he's sure to have been a good deal more fortunate than wretched John Payne, who was Portreeve (mayor) during the so-called Prayer Book Rebellion. That was when Cornishmen lay siege to Exeter in protest at the new English liturgy. Not a good idea. They were beaten back and when Sir Anthony Kingston came hot on their heels relieving the county of these trouble-makers, Payne went to great lengths to mollify him by diplomacy. His efforts cost him dear. He treated Sir Anthony to a huge dinner at the George and Dragon, only to be told to have some gallows erected while they ate… The Glory Days of Pilchard Fishing in St Ives So let's leave politics and religion behind and make our way back through the teeming crowds to the good honest St Ives harbourside. At least here, you might think to yourself, things would have been quieter in days of old. Not a bit of it. The place was absolutely alive with a million flapping, glinting, silver-sided fish and alive too with the frenzied actions of the men whose job it was to catch them. I'm talking about the seasonal pilchard trade which would see vast shoals entering the bay, the traditional hue and cry from the cliff-tops, and the furious efforts of nearly 1000 men on more than 400 boats. Pilchard Chaos: A First-Hand Account Here's an eye-witness description of the scene written in 1890 by a Mr Anthony, part of an exhibition in the town's excellent museum: "I have seen more than 100,000 hogsheads in St Ives bay at one time. Such a scene can never be forgotten – white bushes waving everywhere, trumpets roaring, a network of 'seans' across the bay and boats spinning about like a regatta." When you consider that a hogshead was a cask designed to hold 3,000 pilchards, you get some idea of the colossal shoals. The "white bushes" were semaphores used by the huers—men on the cliffs directing the boats. Further Reading: Explore More of Cornwall If you enjoyed discovering St Ives, you may also like these Cornwall guides: 👉 The West Country Beaches I Love Mosthttps://www.martinhespfoodandtravel.com/post/the-west-country-beaches-i-love-most 👉 Bude Beach Walk: Crooklets, Northcott Mouth and Summerleaze Downshttps://www.martinhespfoodandtravel.com/post/bude-beach-walk-crooklets-northcott-mouth-and-summerleaze-downs 👉 Cornish Walk: Talland Bay to Polperrohttps://www.martinhespfoodandtravel.com/post/cornish-walks-talland-bay-to-polperro 👉 Classic Afternoon Tea on a Cornish Islandhttps://www.martinhespfoodandtravel.com/post/classic-afternoon-tea-but-on-a-cornish-island 👉 Catch of the Day in the Isles of Scilly: Seafood from Britain's Atlantic Edgehttps://www.martinhespfoodandtravel.com/post/catch-of-the-day-in-the-isles-of-scilly-seafood-from-britain-s-atlantic-edge 👉 Discover Cornwall and the Isles of Scillyhttps://www.martinhespfoodandtravel.com/blog/categories/devon-cornwall--somerset Visit the St Ives Museum and Relive Fishing History The huers also blew massive trumpets to alert fishermen. Visitors to St Ives museum, located on Wheal Dream, can see one of these ear-splitting devices. There’s also a wide variety of pilchard industry relics—including wooden shovels, original fish presses, and exquisite sepia photographs by Lander Elvin Comley. A Modern Harbour with a Historic Soul "There's not a pilchard left," sighs St Ives harbour master Eric Ward, who now manages the harbour where he once fished. "Not a single pilchard have I seen in this bay for years. The sea around here used to go a sort of reddish colour there were so many of them." But pilchards are not the only fish to have vanished. "There are about 30 full-time or part-time fishermen working out of St Ives now, and some have to do other jobs like flower-picking to make ends meet," says Eric. Does he miss it? "No I do not. Not the way it is nowadays. I'm lucky, this is a wonderful harbour and I suppose in a way it's a bit unique. It's got clear water and perfect sand so the visitors use it like a beach. I have a bit of a balancing act to perform – it's still a working harbour and at the same time we like to make sure the holiday makers are happy." St Ives Harbour Today: A Living Seaside Legacy Imagine the mayhem if they were still landing three million pilchards at a time among the tourists and sun-bathers… Nowadays it's more likely to be a couple of buckets of mackerel. But when they've all gone and the last St Ives fisherman hangs up his pots and nets, the place will still exude the atmosphere of a sea-shanty, and it will still be packed with people who've travelled hundreds of miles just to sniff the smell of the ocean and dream of salty days of yore. Frequently Asked Questions About St Ives, Cornwall Where is St Ives in Cornwall? St Ives is situated on Cornwall's spectacular north coast, overlooking St Ives Bay. Around 10 miles west of Hayle and 30 miles from Truro, it is one of the county's most picturesque seaside towns and a popular base for exploring west Cornwall. Why is St Ives so famous? St Ives is renowned for its stunning beaches, picturesque harbour, thriving art scene and rich fishing heritage. It has inspired generations of artists and is home to the internationally acclaimed Tate St Ives, while its narrow cobbled streets, independent shops and waterfront cafés make it one of Britain's favourite holiday destinations. Is St Ives worth visiting? Absolutely. Whether you're interested in history, art, coastal walks, wildlife, watersports or simply relaxing beside the sea, St Ives offers something for everyone. Its unique blend of natural beauty and Cornish character makes it one of the highlights of any visit to Cornwall. What are the best beaches in St Ives? St Ives is blessed with several outstanding beaches, each with its own character. Porthmeor Beach is popular with surfers, Porthminster Beach is ideal for families, Harbour Beach offers traditional seaside charm, while Porthgwidden provides a quieter, sheltered spot for swimming and relaxation. What are the best things to do in St Ives? Visitors can explore the historic harbour, browse independent galleries and boutiques, visit Tate St Ives, walk the spectacular South West Coast Path, take a boat trip to spot seals or dolphins, enjoy fresh Cornish seafood or simply relax on one of the town's beautiful beaches. When is the best time to visit St Ives? St Ives is beautiful throughout the year. Spring and autumn often provide the best combination of pleasant weather and fewer visitors, while summer brings a lively atmosphere and long days perfect for beach holidays. Winter offers dramatic coastal scenery and a quieter, more peaceful experience. How do you get to St Ives? Many visitors drive to St Ives, but the scenic branch railway from St Erth is widely regarded as one of Britain's most beautiful train journeys. During the busy summer months, the St Erth Park and Ride service is often the easiest way to reach the town. Is parking difficult in St Ives? Parking can be limited during the summer season, so using one of the Park and Ride facilities at St Erth is highly recommended. It avoids traffic congestion and allows visitors to enjoy the spectacular train journey into the town. Is St Ives good for walking? Yes. St Ives is surrounded by some of Cornwall's finest coastal scenery. Walkers can enjoy sections of the South West Coast Path, including routes towards Zennor, Carbis Bay and Lelant, with breathtaking views across the Atlantic. Is St Ives suitable for families? Very much so. Safe sandy beaches, rock pools, boat trips, wildlife cruises, cafés, ice cream parlours and family-friendly attractions make St Ives an excellent destination for visitors of all ages. Can you visit Tate St Ives? Yes. Tate St Ives celebrates the town's remarkable artistic heritage and showcases both modern and contemporary art. Its stunning location overlooking Porthmeor Beach makes it one of Cornwall's most popular cultural attractions. What food is St Ives famous for? Fresh seafood is a highlight, with local restaurants serving everything from crab and lobster to freshly landed fish. Visitors can also enjoy traditional Cornish pasties, cream teas and artisan ice cream while exploring the harbour and waterfront. How many days should I spend in St Ives? A long weekend is enough to experience the town's main attractions, but spending four or five days allows time to enjoy the beaches, coastal walks, galleries and nearby villages without feeling rushed. Is St Ives one of the most beautiful towns in Cornwall? Many people would say yes. With its turquoise waters, golden beaches, granite cottages, bustling fishing harbour and thriving artistic community, St Ives consistently ranks among the most beautiful seaside towns in both Cornwall and the whole of Britain. Planning Your Visit to St Ives Include just five or six bullet points: Nearest railway station: St Ives (via St Erth branch line) Nearest airport: Newquay Cornwall Airport Best months to visit: April to June and September Ideal stay: 3–5 days Perfect for: Families, walkers, food lovers, artists and photographers Don't miss: Watching the sunset from Porthmeor Beach

The antidote I needed to a few hot and busy days in Ho Chi Minh City was supplied by Les Rives, a company that provides thrilling speedboat journeys down the Saigon River to the Mekong Delta. This unique experience offers travellers a glimpse into a different side of Vietnam - one that is as fascinating as it is sobering. From the water, you can witness a stark contrast to the modernity of the city centre as the boat speeds its way past canals lined with sprawling slums. These areas are a striking reminder of the challenges faced by many. Yet, for those staying in the city’s luxurious District One, this journey provides an important and essential perspective, highlighting the edge of industrial progress where poverty and struggle persist. The boat-ride is a mix of speed and maneuverability, as the skipper cuts his craft down the river with ease. As you move further from the city, the air grows more fresh, and the sights become greener, gradually transporting you into an entirely different world. The journey is exhilarating, and the sense of adventure is heightened by the changing landscape. Witnessing the Contrasts Along the Saigon River Soon, you find yourself in the heart of the Mekong Delta, a place that feels like a totally different world. This extraordinary region is characterised by its intricate network of waterways and its lush, fertile land. Here, the locals live in harmony with the environment, navigating their daily lives in often flooded flatlands. They seem to exist at a subsistence level, but manage to exude an equable and cheerful spirit. This resilience and optimism are, from what I could make out, hallmarks of the Vietnamese people, and nowhere is it more evident than in the Delta. Lunch in this watery area is a memorable experience. Les Rives takes you to a local farm where the rich, alluvial soils produce an astonishing variety of crops. The meal, prepared fresh on-site, is a farm-to-table feast featuring locally grown fruits, vegetables, and freshly caught fish. It’s a culinary journey that complements the visual and cultural exploration of the region. The farm also provides an opportunity to meet the people who sustain this vibrant ecosystem and learn about their way of life. Les Rives plays a vital role in supporting the local economy by employing teams of residents who assist with its tours. This collaboration ensures that the benefits of tourism extend directly to the community, making the experience not only enjoyable but also meaningful. Interesting Facts About the Mekong Delta Population: The greater Mekong Delta area is home to approximately 17 million people, making it one of the most densely populated areas in Vietnam. Geography: Known as the "Rice Bowl of Vietnam," the region covers around 40,500 square kilometers of fertile, low-lying land interlaced with rivers, canals, and swamps. Agriculture: The Mekong Delta produces more than half of Vietnam's rice, making it a crucial area for the country's food security. Other major agricultural outputs include tropical fruits like mangoes, bananas, coconuts, and dragon fruit, as well as shrimp and fish from aquaculture. Floating Markets: The region is famous for its floating markets, such as Cai Rang and Phong Dien, where traders sell fruits, vegetables, and other goods directly from their boats. Cuisine: Popular dishes include bun rieu (a crab and tomato noodle soup), ca kho to (caramelized fish in clay pot), and banh xeo (crispy Vietnamese pancakes filled with shrimp and pork). The Delta is also known for its fresh tropical fruits and coconut-based desserts. Biodiversity: The Mekong Delta is a biodiversity hotspot with unique flora and fauna, including endangered species like the Irrawaddy dolphin and giant catfish. Lifestyle: Many residents live in stilt houses or floating homes, adapting to the frequent flooding in the area. Transportation: The region relies heavily on waterways for transportation, with small boats and ferries being a primary mode of travel. Climate Challenges: The Delta faces threats from rising sea levels, saltwater intrusion, and unpredictable weather patterns due to climate change, impacting its agriculture and livelihoods. Cultural Significance: The Mekong Delta is a melting pot of Vietnamese, Khmer, and Chinese influences, reflected in its festivals, architecture, and traditions.

A Journey Across the Remote and Empty Chains This hike was originally the idea of Dr. Nigel Stone, who at the time was Chief Executive of the Exmoor National Park Authority (ENPA). He invited me to join him to explore some of the work done to celebrate the 40th anniversary of the Two Moors Way. Britain’s Hidden Long-Distance Gem If there were a competition for Britain’s most beautiful but least known long-distance trails, the Two Moors Way would likely win. A new logo promises the trail takes walkers coast-to-coast. This walk forms part of my complete Exmoor Walking Guide Though it doesn’t officially stretch ocean-to-ocean, this fact doesn’t diminish the trail’s allure. Starting at Lynmouth on the north coast, it traverses Exmoor, Devon’s heart, and Dartmoor before ending at Ivybridge. To truly walk from sea to sea, hikers must continue on the Erme Trail for 15 miles to Wembury’s shoreline. (To see more Exmoor Walks click here) A Missed Opportunity for Simplicity The relaunch missed a trick by not uniting these trails into a single, glorious 117-mile ocean-to-ocean route. Simplicity in storytelling matters, but regardless, significant improvements have been made to enhance the Two Moors Way. Short video taken on the walk to Hoar Oak Setting Off Over High Moorlands Dr. Stone and I began our hike above Simonsbath to witness these enhancements. Utilizing a two-car approach, we parked one vehicle at Brendon Two Gates on the Simonsbath-Lynmouth road, then drove back to Prayway Head. This linear approach is perfect for group hiking, freeing walkers from the constraints of circular routes. Prayway Head: A Historic Starting Point Prayway Head overlooks the young Exe Valley. Its name likely stems from ancient travelers’ prayers before crossing the featureless Chains. This perilous trek once involved boggy, dangerous terrain. Thanks to the Exmoor Mires Project, these landscapes are being re-wetted, restoring their natural balance. Making the Two Moors Way More Passable Heading west across Dure Down, we reached Exe Head, the Exe River’s birthplace. Bags of aggregate lie ready here to improve the trail through boggy sections. These light-touch engineering projects will ensure the trail remains wild while becoming more walker-friendly. The Chains: A Sense of Prehistoric Wilderness Turning north, we descended into a dramatic coombe dividing Exe Plain from The Chains. Just a short walk from Prayway Head, this valley feels like stepping back into prehistoric Britain. Amid the steep ravine’s isolation, ancient stone walls evoke an antediluvian ambiance. Modern Solutions to Ancient Challenges Further along the trail, we observed efforts to address the damage caused by cattle. Thanks to crowdsourced funds, a helicopter delivered aggregate to improve these muddy stretches. Hoar Oak Cottage: The Capital of the Middle of Nowhere Amid this desolation stands Hoar Oak Cottage, a semi-ruined moorland home steeped in legend. Recently stabilized by the ENPA and partnering groups, it remains an evocative relic. Visitors can now explore its roofless rooms and empty windows, feeling the profound solitude of its remote history. Returning to Civilization Our hike concluded by heading east across open moorlands past Clannon Ball to Brendon Two Gates. Ideally, given time, I’d prefer to continue to Lynmouth—the true start or end of the Two Moors Way.

The Sheltered Beauty of Porlock Vale and Horner As wind and sleet blew across the landscape, I embarked on a journey to one of the most sheltered spots in the West Country. Tucked away in the lee of Exmoor's highest hills, Porlock Vale and the village of Horner offer a haven of tranquility, a micro-climate, and a soporific atmosphere that's hard to resist. Horner: A Timeless Village Nestled in Nature Horner, with its ancient mill, giant wheel, stone cottages, and elegant chimneys, is part of the National Trust's Holnicote Estate. Stretching from Dunkery Beacon to the sea, the estate encompasses coombes, river systems, ancient forests, hamlets, and villages, culminating at the grey shingle ridge of Porlock Bay. Exploring the Ancient Forests and Coombes of Exmoor The steep woods surrounding Horner Water make up one of the largest blocks of semi-natural woodland in the country. Internationally significant due to its vast array of lichens, the area also boasts abundant insect and bird-life. This walk forms part of my complete Exmoor Walking Guide. A Four-Mile Hike Through Exmoor's Hinterland Setting off from Horner's car park, I crossed the packhorse bridge to delve into the deep Exmoor hinterland. The riverside track leads south, gradually approaching Dunkery, Somerset's highest hill. Cloutsham Ball, a ferny jungle-like slope, divides the valley in two. East Water Valley: A Scenic Detour Instead of heading westward toward Stoke Pero, I ventured left into East Water Valley. After crossing a bridge and ascending the hill, I recalled nature writer Richard Jefferies' encounter with a stag 129 years prior to my, and I was fortunate enough to witness a large male deer right in the same location. The Descent and Return to Horner The path takes a gentler approach to the top and eventually leads to Webber's Post. Heading due north along the Horner Hill ridge, breathtaking views can be enjoyed before the path descends through a grove of ancient pines. Carefully navigating the tangled roots, I returned to Horner village, rejuvenated by the invigorating air of Exmoor. Fact File Basic hike: From the hamlet of Horner, near Porlock, south up Horner Water into the East Water Valley, ascend to Webber's Post, and return along the ridge of Horner Hill. Recommended Map: Ordnance Survey Outdoor Leisure Map 9 - Exmoor. Distance and going: Approximately four miles, with some steep sections but not too muddy.

The official Twitter account for Exmoor's 3 National Park Centres #Lynmouth#Dulverton & #Dunster is running an excellent lockdown quiz at the moment in which they put a photo a day up on to their twitter account and people who see it have to guess the location… The other day they put up a photo of Hoar Oak Cottage, right out in the middle of the western moors, and it reminded me of the day a few years ago when I walked in that direction with Dr Nigel Stone, who was at the time chief executive of the Exmoor National Park Authority (ENPA). He’d invited me to join him so we could see some of the work which had been done to help celebrate the 40th anniversary of the Two Moors Way. If there was a competition category for Britain’s most beautiful, but least known, long distance trails - this north-to-south route would probably win it. The Two Moors Way was relaunched a couple of weeks ago 40 years after its inception, with a new logo that promises that the trail will take walkers from coast to coast. To read about our Exmoor walks click here The fact that it doesn’t will take nothing away from the path which wends its way south from the West Country’s north coast at Lynmouth - across Exmoor, through the middle of Devon and over Dartmoor - to terminate at Ivybridge. But walkers must then join the Erme Trail to hike the extra 15 miles to the south Devon shoreline at Wembury. A great deal of work has been done to make the Two Moors Ways just that little bit easier and more pleasant to follow. And Dr Stone and I set off over the high moorlands above Simonsbath to see the improvements for ourselves. We did one of those two-car jobs to make things easier - an obvious boon if you are hiking with other people because it allows you to enjoy a linear route rather than always having to find some circular ramble that takes you back to where you began. On this occasion we left one car at Brendon Two Gates on the Simonsbath-Lynmouth road, then drove back south to Prayway Head where there’s plenty of room to park. I don’t know why the dramatic spot above the young Exe Valley is called Prayway - but can guess it was named thus centuries ago by folk who reached this spot, then had to continue out across the featureless Chains. In bad weather, before the bogs up here were messed about with and semi-drained, this would have been a somewhat perilous thing to do. Many of the bogs remain - indeed, this whole area is being re-wetted as part of Exmoor’s Mires Project in a bid to restore the natural balance of this landscape to how it should be - but the scheme is a long way off the point where bottomless pits will swallow you whole, Hound of the Baskervilles style. Nevertheless, the work being carried out up here on the Two Moors Way is all about preventing walkers sinking knee-deep in mud. This we were to see after we’d strolled west across Dure Down. As we reached Exe Head - the damp birthplace of the West Country’s greatest river - so we noticed the bags of aggregate which will be used to allow the Two Moors Way hikers to pass the boggiest bit of this wet corner. This is not a major engineering project - once the work is done you’ll be hard pushed to notice anything has changed, so it won’t take anything away from the wildness of the place - but it will make all the difference to walkers. At Exe Head we’d reached the Two Moors Way, so we turned north along it to drop down into the dramatic looking coombe that divides Exe Plain from The Chains. If you are looking to experience a sense of deep wilderness - but don’t want to have to walk miles from a road - this is a prime place in which to do it. It’s just a 15 minute walk to this spot from Prayway Head, and yet stroll down into this coombe and you can imagine you’ve travelled into some prehistoric Britain. It’s as wild and as beautiful a place as any I know. A little way down the steep sided ravine there are the remains of an old cattle keep - if that really is what the low stone walls represent. Whatever the place was, it gives the scene an even more antediluvian feel because you are now deep in the valley and so can see nothing else man-made at all. There are cattle and sheep, but they somehow have the appearance of wild beasts wondering out on some Serengeti style plain… Down along this part of the long distance trail we were able to see more of the ongoing work which will help the Two Moors Way become more passable. Those cattle have turned some sections into long linear bogs - but, thanks to a recent crowdsourcing exercise, a helicopter was hired to bring in bags of aggregate which will help drain the worst bits. Just as the hiker is now thinking it would be impossible to feel any more remote, the trail comes up with another chapter in its book of loneliness. I refer to Hoar Oak Cottage, an ancient moorland home which has played host to all manner of tales and legends - to the extent that it has become something of an enigma with its own dedicated website and a society of friends. The semi-ruined cottage - which I described as “the capital of the Middle of Nowhere” in a newspaper head-line - underwent refurbishment work a few years ago to stabilise its fabric. The ENPA worked with the Friends of Hoar Oak Cottage, the Exmoor Society and Exmoor Uprising to agree a way of stabilising the ruin. This was the first time I’d visited since the work was completed, and I think it was sensitively done. The empty shell would have simply dissolved into the landscape without trace - now it’s still a ruin, but one that will stay that way for many years to come. And walkers can explore its roofless rooms, see the little fireplaces, peer out of the empty windows - and experience the profound sense of loneliness and remoteness that living in such a place must have engendered. For Nigel and I it was a case of getting back to modern civilisation by heading east - up over the open access moorlands past Clannon Ball, all the way to Brendon Two Gates. Given the time and the choice, though, I’d have preferred to hike right on down to Lynmouth which is where the Two Moors Way begins or ends. If course we are all meant to be in lockdown a the moment - so I would ask people not to drive out to visit the moors. But if you’d like to listen to a short story that includes quite a bit of the Two Moors Way, you can find it by clicking play below…

Here’s a hike local to where I live. Many years ago I wrote an account of this walk for a newspaper - this is a slightly longer version than the article which appeared, probably more than 15 years ago… Years ago I set out for this walk in my own back yard – which was a treat because the parish of Old Cleeve is a large and beautiful domain stretching from high hills to the sea. Much of it is inside the Exmoor National Park and the parish boasts no fewer than 71 different rights-of-way. To read about our Exmoor walks click here I know the exact number thanks to an excellent well-researched collection of the hiking routes available in the parish. Jeanne Web’s ‘Old Cleeve Parish Walks’ is just about the best example of an extremely local walking guide I’ve seen. Not only is Old Cleeve one of the largest parishes in the region, it is one of the most diverse. Few mini-municipalities in the country contain such a range of countryside – from the 1,200 foot Brendon Hill escarpment in the south, to the fossil-bearing reefs of the Bristol Channel in the north. We have forests and we have tiny copses; we have meandering streams and mighty waterfalls; high grasslands and luxuriant, impenetrable, thickets. There is limestone, sandstone and slate; and there are hamlets that appear untouched by the passing of time and we also have a busy main-road village. Tracing the Old Cleeve Escarpment So what I decided to do was follow one of the 24 walks which appear in Mrs Webb’s book, and lengthen it a bit. The hike starts halfway up the slopes of the Brendon Hill escarpment, above the village of Roadwater, at a place called Felon’s Oak (map ref: ST 018 389). This is a couple of miles south, up single track lanes, from the main Minehead-Williton road. There isn’t much at Felon’s Oak, save for the odd felon hanging from the boughs of the tree. Or, at least, there would have been a few centuries ago, but most of the sheep stealers have long gone and Judge Jeffries no longer dishes out harsh justice in these quiet backwaters. There’s room to park on the five-cross way (obviously, I walked up from my home). Following Mrs Webb’s route we head of down the lane where we see a sign for Croydon Hall. There’s an exciting and rather mysterious story attached to this large country house - a remarkable German gent once made a fast departure from here at the outbreak of the First World War. He was called Count Conrad von Hochberg – and as my old editor Jack Hurley once put it: “The imaginations were busy creating out of whispers on the wind the cloak and dagger elements of espionage.” Was von Hochberg a German spy? Well, I am ashamed to say that long dead colleagues in the journalistic trade would have it that way. The Count was in fact, an Anglophile and the last thing he wanted was to take up arms against the country he had fallen in love with. He died in Berlin years later and the only hymns sung at the Church of England funeral service were in English and the sermon was preached in the same tongue. But, back in the dark days of 1914, the hacks were making Buchanesque noises about his “Fortress on the cliffs”. They didn’t go quite as far as to mention the 39 Steps – but in the interests of accuracy I must tell you Croydon Hall is hardly a fortress and it is three long miles from a sea-cliff. Back to the parish walks guide... We go past the hall and a couple of cottages then turn right onto a farm track which takes us along the contour of the hill before we take a left down the side of a long hedge that takes us due south. This field enjoys the luxury of wide headlands – which in spring is a wonderful thing to behold as all sorts of wildflowers grow attracting goodness what insects, and therefore birds. In fact, Mrs Webb tells us: “The field scabious (knautia arvensis) and the pink musk mallow (malva moschata) can be found among the common hedgerow plants.” She adds: “The view towards the Brendon hills extends to Timwood and Comberow and the right-hand horizon and straight ahead Kingsdown Clump caps the skyline.” It’s all most picturesque in a uniquely Brendon escarpment sort of way. We swing right – downhill – at the bottom of the hedge, and head for the woods. Once inside the trees we find ourselves walking down a sort of miniature coombe, in which, according to the authoress, we see: “male fern (dryopteris filixmas) and hart’s tongue (asplenium scolopendrium).” Now we enter the village of Roadwater via Tacker Street – which is a tiny southern annex of the community. Across the stream and past a few houses, we reach the Luxborough road where we turn left past the excellent Valiant Soldier Inn. A minute after the pub you will see a tiny road dipping down between houses on the right – walk 50 metres along this and you will come to a Y-shaped junction – keep left and hike 30 metres up the hill to find the Coleridge Way path (on the right through a field gate). This splendid thoroughfare now strikes off south wards along the contours of the valley, taking you first across a field and through what used to be a pinewood – then introducing you to another field, which in turn is followed by a second wood. This is a delightful stand of young beech trees and on its far side you will spy a beautiful hamlet consisting of a couple of classic West Country thatched cottages. This is Lower Hayne and you must stroll down to it by taking the footpath that leaves the Coleridge Way. Cross the lane, and another path leads through the gardens of the cottages before climbing the opposite slope of the valley. This ancient overgrown track ascends until it reaches the Leighland lane where we turn left to walk the few hundred metres past Stamborough Farm. Just after this another lane veers to the right and we stroll up its length until it is dissected by the Stamborough Farm road. Directly opposite you will see a path leading to the village of Treborough. This necessitates another climb across fields – which isn’t surprising as Treborough is about 1000 feet above sea level. The path eventually levels out and arrives at a junction where you will see the hamlet’s church straight ahead. Make for it, but before you reach the old temple take the lane on the right by the old schoolhouse. This little used road climbs for a few hundred metres, then begins a long descent. We go down it for about half a mile until we come across our old friend the Coleridge Way again. It touches the road briefly here – and we must take its right-hand fork which will convey us down across fields and into Langridge Wood. The long distance trail descends a ridge inside this forest to eventually reach the Luxborough road – and what we do is cross straight over, past the house called Peterswell Lake. Close to the garden gate, we join another footpath which takes us back - in a rather muddy and overgrown way – to the Washford Stream that we crossed at Tacker Street. There’s a wide wooden bridge – and then it’s up into the woods once more, to eventually debouche into a steep field. The path climbs this to the gate at the high end and now we’re on the track to Greenland. Roadwater, by-the-way, is the only place in the world that has Greenland on one side and Egypt on the other – though why the folk of yesteryear should name their hamlets in such an international way, I have no idea. And I must say it can feel like Greenland in the snow – Egyptian weather was like a dream from a distant planet. Our track now turns into a tarmac lane, and we simply follow it back to Felon’s Oak, having enjoyed fine wintry views of the eastern slopes of Exmoor National Park. Fact File Basic hike: from Felon’s Oak (map ref: ST 018 389) down to Roadwater – taking in the Mineral Line valley and the Coleridge Way we climb eventually to Treborough before returning down to the Luxborough road and then back up to the start via Greenland. Recommended map: Ordnance Survey OL 9 Exmoor. Distance and going: Seven miles – can be muddy and a bit steep in places. Frequently Asked Questions Where can I park for the Felon's Oak walk? Limited roadside parking can be found near the historic five-cross way at Felon's Oak, situated in the single-track lanes high above Roadwater. Alternatively, walkers can start the circular route from the public parking options down in the village of Roadwater and complete the steady climb up Leighland lane first. What is the history behind Felon's Oak on Exmoor? Felon's Oak is an ancient five-cross way crossroads steeped in local folklore. It traditionally marks a site where historic frontier justice was carried out on Exmoor, including the hanging of sheep stealers and local outlaws during the eras of harsh judicial decrees in the West Country backwaters. Can you visit Croydon Hall? Croydon Hall is a grand, private country house estate located near Roadwater. While the house and its grounds are private, the public right-of-way farm track skims directly past the estate's impressive entrance gates, allowing walkers an excellent view of the property linked to First World War espionage lore. Is the trail suitable for dogs? Yes, the route follows a mix of public footpaths, quiet country lanes, and sections of the Coleridge Way. However, because parts of the track traverse active Somerset farm fields with wide headlands, dogs must be kept under close control or on leads around livestock. The local pub on the route, The Valiant Soldier, is dog-friendly.