Visiting the Xuan Paper Museum in Anhui, China When you think about it, the invention of paper was a very important leap forward indeed. As a newspaper journalist, I would say that - but you only have to contemplate it for a second to realise we could be back in the Dark Ages without paper. Vellum and clay tablets were okay as far as they went, but you cannot keep endlessly complex records on lumps of clay or reproduce lengthy books on countless bits of animal skin. A big thank you, then, to the Chinese, who ‘invented’ paper almost 2500 years ago. It is regarded as such an important development that the province of Anhui has invested in brand new £multi-million visitor centre to celebrate the fact. And what a remarkable place the Xuan museum is… The architectural design incorporates a combination of straight lines and curved slices to create a visual representation of paper so that, upon entering the huge building set deep in the mountains, the visitor feels they are strolling through giant walls of hanging sheets of Xuan’s famous product. Once inside, you learn that paper-making is known as one of the Four Great Inventions of the ancient Chinese civilisation (along with printing, gunpowder, and the compass). You also learn how they developed paper-making - which was nowhere near as straightforward as it might sound. Xuan paper-making requires 180 different processes before you get to write on a single sheet! Why Xuan Paper is One of China's Four Great Inventions Indeed, it is one of those developments that makes you wonder how the hell they got around to it in the first place. Not only the mincing up and drying of various types of bamboo and rice husk, but the idea that kiwi lime juice would help the multiple layers of wet and sodden paper mash to eventually dry and separate effortlessly into thin and usable sheets. Paper Trail.. The earliest known paper-making dates back to the Han Dynasty (206 BCE – 220 CE), with the traditional credit given to Cai Lun, a court official, around 105 CE. However, evidence suggests that rudimentary forms of paper existed in China as early as the 2nd century BCE. Materials and Process I was told that early Chinese paper was made from a mixture of natural fibres, including mulberry bark, hemp, rags, and even old fishing nets. The raw materials were soaked, boiled, and pounded into a pulp, then spread thinly onto a bamboo screen to form sheets. The sheets were pressed to remove water and then left to dry in the sun. This simple yet effective process was a considerable improvement over earlier writing surfaces like bamboo strips, silk, and animal bones. Impact and Spread The invention of paper had a profound impact on Chinese society, making written communication more accessible and affordable. However, I was told that the first use of paper was as a filler for the kind of sliding doors, windows and screens that were a feature of early Chinese houses - not a bad idea in the absence of glass. Later, it played a crucial role in the spread of literacy, education, and bureaucratic efficiency. Paper-making techniques spread along the Silk Road, reaching the Islamic world by the 8th century and Europe by the 12th century. I was particularly interested in visiting the Xuan Paper Making Town because I happen to live almost next door to a neighbour who is the UK’s premier producer of hand-made paper for artists - you can see his website at Two Rivers Paper

Discover the Real Lanzarote: A Walking Holiday Beyond the Resorts The name Lanzarote used to be a byword for lobster-red sunburns, cold beer, and all-inclusive package holidays. And while those sun-drenched escapes still exist, anyone who visits this extraordinary Canary Island and ignores its wild natural beauty is missing out on something truly special. Lanzarote is like nowhere else on Earth. In parts, it resembles the Moon—stark, surreal, and utterly compelling. For more ideas beyond the beaches, see:👉 Alternative Things to Do in Lanzarote A Landscape Like No Other: Volcanic Peaks, Black Sands, and Hidden Valleys Lanzarote’s volcanic terrain is at once eerie and captivating. Picture charcoal-black slopes dotted with emerald oases, lonely stretches of coastline, ancient whitewashed towns, deep ravines, and fields farmed in the same way for centuries. Its compact 327 square miles hold a kaleidoscope of geological wonders—lava fields, green lagoons, remote sea caves, and palm-filled valleys. Add to that traditional markets, tucked-away restaurants, and barely-touched villages, and you have a destination ripe for slow, immersive travel. Just what you need for a walking holiday. Learn more:👉 Guide to Lanzarote’s Volcanic Landscapes Walking Lanzarote: The Best Way to Explore the Island For those who love to explore a place on foot, Lanzarote offers an unforgettable walking holiday. Trails crisscross the island—from rugged volcanic ridgelines to gentle countryside paths and quiet coastal tracks. Whether you’re a seasoned hiker or just enjoy a good countryside ramble, there’s a walk here to suit every pace and ability. Many of these hikes can be enjoyed independently, and routes are increasingly well-marked. A little pre-planning, a good map (or GPS app), and some sturdy walking shoes are all you need to uncover the real Lanzarote. Recommended reading:👉 Best Hiking Trails in Lanzarote Why Base Yourself in Arrecife? While most tourists flock to the resorts, Arrecife, the island’s capital, offers a more authentic Canarian experience. I stayed at the three-star Hotel Lancelot, right on the seafront across from a broad sandy beach. Unlike the resort towns, Arrecife draws mainly Spanish visitors—meaning the nearby restaurants cater to locals, not tourists. All the better for those of us who appreciate genuine flavours and proper value. Explore more:👉 Food and Culture Guide to Arrecife Choosing Your Walks: Easy Rambles to Lofty Vantage Points Walking options range from gentle four-hour strolls to more demanding day hikes with steep ascents. On a recent trip, I focused on moderate walks—perfect for soaking in the scenery and taking plenty of photographs along the way. The Vineyards of La Geria: Farming in the Lava Fields One of the most fascinating walks took us through the La Geria wine-growing region, just outside the village of Uga. Here, each vine is planted in a shallow pit dug into black volcanic grit, protected by a semi-circular stone wall. These ingenious growing methods allow crops to survive in an arid, windy environment not far from the Sahara Desert. Discover more:👉 Lanzarote’s Unique Wine Culture in La Geria Haria and the Valley of a Thousand Palms Another day took us inland to Haria, a sleepy village nestled in the lush “Valley of a Thousand Palms.” Our visit coincided with market day, so we stocked up on local treats for a picnic, then set out for the island’s highest point. The ridge walk south offered panoramic views in every direction. After a breezy lunch beside an old chapel, we continued toward Teguise, the former capital. Few tourists venture here, and we were rewarded with cold beers and the best olives I’ve ever eaten in a sun-drenched plaza. Suggested link:👉 Exploring Haria and Traditional Lanzarote Villages Northern Views and Cancelled Ferries Yet another hike began in the upland village of Maguez, where we climbed past meadows and farmland toward Monte Caron and Los Helechos. The views just kept getting better until we could see the whole northern tip of Lanzarote, including La Graciosa, its tiny island neighbour. Sadly, strong winds meant ferries to La Graciosa were cancelled on our day off, but the consolation prize was a lazy wander through Arrecife’s historic quarter, enjoying tapas by the inner harbour. Recommended: 👉 Where to Eat and Drink in Arrecife Walking Timanfaya: Into the Heart of the Volcano One of the most surreal walks was through the Timanfaya National Park, where vast lava fields stretch across the landscape like a frozen sea of stone. We ended the hike in the fishing village of El Golfo, where a seafood lunch brought us back down to Earth in the most delicious way possible. Explore:👉 Timanfaya National Park Travel Guide A Perfect Winter Sun Walking Destination With temperatures in the high teens and low twenties throughout the cooler months, Lanzarote makes a superb autumn or winter escape for walkers. The scenery is out of this world, the food is excellent, and the experience of walking from village to village, ridge to coast, is simply unforgettable. Plan your trip: 👉 Top Winter Sun Destinations for Walkers Final Thoughts Lanzarote is more than a sun-lounger destination. For those who explore it on foot, it reveals an elemental, almost spiritual landscape—one shaped by fire and wind and time. Walking here isn’t just about exercise; it’s about understanding a place deeply, slowly, and on your own terms. Whether you're planning your own route or joining a guided walking tour, Lanzarote promises views you'll never forget, meals that feel richly earned, and a sense of connection that goes far beyond the beach.

Tenerife is not all it’s cracked up to be. In fact, it’s far more than that. No place in Europe is more cracked, ravaged, thrust asunder, or cleaved apart. Forget the crowds of lobster-pink sun-seekers who cling to its shores—just one word truly defines Tenerife, and that word is volcanic. This Canary Island is a testament to the forces of nature, covered in vast solidified lava flows, carved by impossibly deep ravines, cloaked by lush forests, and crowned by its omnipresent, all-dominating peak: Mount Teide. Tenerife is a volcanic wonderland, and that humbling reality is worth remembering when you’re navigating the crowded streets of Playa de las Américas or Los Cristianos. The neon signs promising "two pints for the price of one" might momentarily distract you, but beyond the high-rises lies the mountain—a reminder of how small our human pursuits are in the face of nature. Escaping the Crowds 🗻 Recently, I found myself on Tenerife, looking for a bit of winter sun—a pursuit of warmth that’s hard to ignore with all the tempting offers flying out of regional airports. Tenerife, as one of the few places in Europe that can promise sun by the bucket-load in March, was my destination. Yet, not all of Tenerife basks in year-round sun. The island is aptly known as the Island of Contrasts. North of Mount Teide, the coast turns green and fertile, and the weather can often shift to cloudy or rainy. The sunny southern tip, however, is where most of the tourist hubs are found. Of the two main resorts, Los Cristianos is by far the more charming. Unlike the brashness of Playa de las Américas, Los Cristianos retains a sense of authenticity. Its working ferry and fishing harbor offer a glimpse into the real life of the island, and it feels a world away from the loud, neon-lit tourist traps. Where to Stay: Southern Comfort 🏘️ On this trip, I stayed at the Arona Gran Hotel, situated in the sunniest part of the bay. From its spacious balconies, I could take in views of the harbour and a beautiful volcanic hill that separated the hotel from the busier tourist areas. The strategic location allowed us to escape the tourist frenzy with ease, while still providing all the comforts of a luxury stay. The southern tip of Tenerife is also conveniently close to Tenerife South Airport, which makes traveling from regional UK airports like Bristol or Exeter a breeze. Despite the four-hour flight, the quick 20-minute bus journey to the hotel makes the entire trip seamless. Adventures Beyond the Beach: La Gomera and Beyond ⛰️ The best part of staying on the southern tip of Tenerife is how easy it is to explore beyond the main tourist drag. Almost hourly ferries make their way to La Gomera, an island just an hour away by sea. I fully intend to return just to explore Gomera—a lush, mountainous island renowned for its wild beauty and the promise of a "horizontal rain" experience for adventurous hikers. For those seeking wild beauty without leaving Tenerife, the island itself offers a range of landscapes that defy its sun-soaked reputation. Renting an inexpensive car, I was able to traverse four entirely different climate zones within an hour of leaving the hotel. From sub-tropical seaside heat to the alpine chill of snow-dusted Mount Teide, Tenerife showcased a stunning variety—including semi-desert expanses, Mediterranean vineyard zones, and lush forests. It’s a reminder that Tenerife is far more than its resort-filled southern coast—it is an island of astounding natural diversity. Experience the Wild Side of Tenerife 🌋 If you’re planning a trip to Tenerife, don't settle for the typical tourist experience. Explore beyond the sunbeds and high-rise hotels. From the verdant beauty of La Gomera to the towering majesty of Mount Teide, Tenerife offers much more than sun and sand. It is an island forged by fire—an adventure waiting to be discovered.

View looking down into Talland Bay Why this is one of Cornwall's best coastal walks There are some walks that are enjoyable enough while you are doing them, and then quietly slip away from the memory a few days later. This certainly isn't one of them. The stroll from Talland Bay to the delightfully higgledy-piggledy fishing village of Polperro is one of those rare rambles that lingers in the mind long after you've kicked off your boots, thanks to its glorious sea views, hidden coves and the timeless charm of the Cornish coast. To see more of our Cornish walks click here It isn't a particularly long walk, nor is it especially demanding, but what it lacks in miles it more than makes up for in sheer variety. One moment you're gazing across the wide blue sweep of the English Channel, the next you're ducking beneath ancient trees or peering down into tiny rocky inlets where the waves have been busy sculpting the cliffs for thousands of years. And, waiting at journey's end, is Polperro itself – one of Cornwall's most enchanting old fishing villages and a place that's almost impossible to leave without promising yourself you'll return. Starting at Talland Bay My fitness monitor watch showed that my heart rate was pounding away like a steam train by the time I reached the top of the steep hill above Downend Point, but somehow this made the walk from Talland to Polperro even more enjoyable. I’d been lucky enough to get a lavish room at the excellent Talland Bay Hotel and so had planned a simple there-and-back walk west to the famous and popular fishing village. Polperro isn’t popular for nothing. It really is one of the most picturesque places in the UK - but, I promise, it is a place much better visited by foot than by road. The approach to Polperro from Talland Bay is magical. When you eventually turn the corner and see the picture-postcard port, you almost have to pinch yourself to make sure you’re not in the midst of a pleasant dream. The Talland Bay Hotel is located on a shelf a few hundred feet above the waves, so the first thing we had to do was descend down to the bay, before turning right and beginning the long steep ascent. In doing so, we passed one of the two cafes this lonely place boasts - both of which look very pleasant indeed. Walking to Polperro The coast path sets off up the incline and then soon branches off to follow the cliff-tops in its usual fashion. That’s the bit which is closed for the time being - and this is a pity because it does make a slower and far more scenic ascent of the big hill above Downend Point. The present detour takes you up the steep paved road which eventually reaches an area called Brent, which is a kind of hilltop suburb of Polperro. At the summit a track strikes off seawards across a field - and this is what takes you back to the coast path, which has climbed the same hill by its more scenic route. What you'll see All this climbing is worth the while because the next section of the walk is fabulous. Indeed, it has become one of my favourite bits of the whole of the coast path. I don’t exactly know what it is, but there is something special about the steep sloping mile of coast that takes you west into Polperro. There are scrub woodlands and ancient hidden, often overgrown, gardens dotted along the slope, and the afternoon we marched along this bit of littoral there were more birds singing in the scrubland than you’d think possible. In fact, I cannot remember ever being near the sea and hearing so much warbling and chirruping. The National Trust owns large tracts of coastal land along the south Cornish coast and its local leaflet says: “The observant visitor may spot a number of hedged enclosures beside the terraced paths. These were plots let to local people for the cultivation of flowers and vegetables, there being little space in the closely-packed Polperro valley for gardens or allotments. “Veronica or escallonia hedges, now mostly out of control, separated one from another and provided shelter. Few of the plots are maintained now, although to the east of the harbour where a similar regime exists, some plots are actively cultivated.” Then, suddenly, we come to Polperro - or the harbour end of things, at least - which, as everyone will know, is this community’s finest feature. It is still a working fishing port and it is sublimely beautiful. John Betjeman once commented that Polperro was: “more like a film set than an old Cornish fishing port,” - and he might be right because, approaching the place from the eastern cliffs (rather than down the valley which is the way most visitors arrive) adds a special scenic buzz to the experience. If Polperro wasn’t so famous, you might think that you’d walked into some picture-perfect film set. The harbour is run by an elected board of trustees and over the years a number of developments have helped to make the lot of the fishermen an easier one. On our way down to the eastern side of the harbour, for example, we passed the fuel store that is fed by tanker via an underground pipeline from the top of Talland Hill. “It's made an enormous difference,” a fisherman told me a few years ago. “It used to be impossible to get a tanker down here to the harbour so we'd have to go all the way to somewhere like Plymouth to fill up. That was time consuming and expensive.” Polperro Another great step forward for Polperro fishermen was the replacement of the traditional timber baulk by a mechanised swinging gate. “South-easterlies are the worst winds here,” said the fisherman. “If we get one blowing up we close the storm-gate. It tends to be a case of: last one in shuts the gate.” The boats were still coming in the afternoon we visited - and so too were the hordes of tourists. So, after a quick ice-cream, we retraced our steps. And what steps they were. More than 14,000 of them according to my fitness monitor watch - which also told me this walk from Talland Bay Hotel to Polperro and back again was 3.5. miles in length and that we climbed a total of 900 feet. As I said at the beginning - short but dramatic. FACT FILE Basic walk: from Talland Bay to Polperro and back. Distance and going: 3.5 miles (including a stroll around Polperro) - very steep in places. LOCAL KNOIWLEDGE Potter in Polperro If you do today’s walk, do take time to potter around Polperro exploring its charming side-streets and alleys - it is a charming village with a fascinating history. Botanical booty This walk is rich in floral beauty - in the right season make sure to leave plenty of time in order to admire coastal blooms like sea thrift. Totally in love with Talland The Talland Bay Hotel is a truly luxurious place inn which to stay - and even better for walkers who have dogs - it is exceptionally canine-friendly. www.tallandbayhotel.co.uk

The terrace at Three House, Funchal The Rhythm of an Island Day To a bloke who has spent half-a-century chasing stories and good suppers and lunches across the globe, there is nothing quite like finding yourself on a remote but highly fertile island. Out here in the Atlantic, where the salt air keeps the mind sharp and the appetite sharper, a day of culinary exploration in the lovely old capital, Funchal, is a masterclass in how Madeira manages to celebrate its deep-rooted heritage while keeping its eyes fixed firmly on the horizon. Midday Magic at Three House Restaurant Take, for instance, a midday stroll to Three House. Situated upstairs in a large building dominating a corner of the city that feels both historic and entirely fresh, this isn't just a place to grab a bite, it provides a masterclass in effortless, cool-headed gastronomy. The place is fun - the vibe is laid-back - but don't let the relaxed atmosphere fool you. There is a precise, intelligent craft at work in the kitchen. The Best Seat in the House: Up Close with the Kitchen Team The real magic happens if you manage to bag a seat right at the bar. Perched at this informal chef’s table, the barrier between diner and kitchen completely evaporates. It is pure theatre. You can watch the culinary team execute each plate with cool precision, and if you catch their eye, they’re more than happy to lean over the counter for a chat, sharing the exact inspiration behind the midday menu. Breaded Scabbard Fish, Lunch here feels like a celebration of the season, where local ingredients are treated with a light, contemporary touch that doesn't feel overworked or pretentious. We enjoyed a selection of absolutely superb small plates... Two absolute standouts demand your attention here, especially from this front-row vantage point: The Breaded Scabbard Fish: A brilliant, crunch-perfect take on the island's classic peixe espada, elevated here with an almond and coconut tempura batter that delivers a spectacular texture without losing the delicate, flaky sweetness of the fish. The Slow-Cooked Short Rib Beef: Total comfort on a plate. It’s rich, melt-in-the-mouth tender, and often features as the star of a deeply savoury, complex ramen that showcases the kitchen's flair for clever fusion cooking. Slow-Cooked Short Rib Beef It’s the kind of cooking that makes you want to linger over a glass of dry Verdelho, watching the Funchal sun work its magic while the afternoon stretches out before you. If you prefer you can sit out on the restaurant's airy terrace which commands wonderful views of the port area of the city. Rooftop pool and deck at the Three House Hotel Perched directly above the restaurant sits the Three House Hotel, a sleek, thoughtfully styled retreat that manages to feel entirely cut off from the hum of the city streets below. The real crown jewel here, though, is the rooftop open-air lounge. Up on the deck, you’re treated to a spectacular panoramic sweep of Funchal's terracotta roofs tumbling down towards the deep blue of the Atlantic. It’s an idyllic spot to lose an hour or two, centred around a beautifully crisp swimming pool that mirrors the island sky, and a cocktail bar where the mixology is taken just as seriously as the cooking downstairs. There’s no better place in town to order a properly fashioned sundowner, find a comfortable corner, and watch the Atlantic light fade to dusk. An Evening of Deep-Sea Flavours at Akua by Júlio Pereira But if lunch is a masterclass in relaxed, modern sophistication, dinner at Akua is a deep dive into the very soul of the Atlantic. Sitting down with a representative from the Madeira Promotion Bureau, it becomes instantly clear that this is a restaurant that doesn't just serve seafood—it understands it. Akua is the brainchild of Chef Júlio Pereira, a man who knows exactly how to make the ocean sing on a plate. Classic Sardine, Eggplant and Passion Fruit at Akua A Front-Row View of Atlantic Gastronomy Once again, the ultimate way to experience this place is from a vantage point right at the counter. Sitting at Akua's special bar spaces turns dinner into an interactive conversation. As the chefs grill, slice, and assemble the fresh catch right in front of your eyes, they talk you through the dishes, explaining where the fish was landed that morning and the traditional island secrets behind the flavours. The menu here relies on a brilliant array of classics designed for sharing, alongside standout mains that showcase incredible culinary wit. A few of the house specialties you simply cannot miss include: The Fried Codfish Tacos: Crispy, light, and perfectly balanced, these have become a legendary starter for anyone pulling up a stool at the bar. The Sardine, Eggplant and Passion Fruit: A daring combination that pairs the rich oiliness of local sardines with the sharp, clean tropical punch of Madeira's favourite fruit. Braised Tuna with Razor Clam Rice: A spectacular main course where perfectly seared tuna steak meets a rich, deeply savoury bed of razor clam rice that tastes of the pure ocean. The Fish Sausage Board: A masterful display of maritime charcuterie that subverts everything you think you know about sausage making. The focus here is entirely on the pristine freshness of the catch, treated with the kind of reverence only a true island kitchen can muster. Paired with a sharp, mineral-rich local white wine—including their own bespoke house white bottled exclusively for the restaurant—and the insight of a host who knows the island inside out, it is an evening that reminds you why we travel in the first place. Seared local tuna at Akua, Funchal Funchal's dining scene isn't just evolving, it’s thriving - anchored beautifully between the sleek style of the new world and the true, unpolluted bounty of the Atlantic. You can book a spot or browse the full, current menu directly on the official Akua Website.

A Classic North Cornwall Beach Walk People often ask why these walks haven’t come out in book form, and it’s a question I ponder over myself. Maybe one day they will - and when they are gathered together in their different geographic or subject areas, a good idea for one in the series would be a book focussing on hikes that include stretches of beach. A true classic of this genre is to be found at Bude. It’s short and sweet - but oh so incredibly salty and invigorating that even a less than fit mate of mine joined me along its three humble miles this week and pronounced himself to have been reborn. So how do we go about this extremely easy-to-follow hike that takes us gently up rolling down-lands only to drop us back to sea-level so that we can return a long the dead flat sands of a truly wondrous beach? Well, the first thing to say is that we only go about it IF the tide is right. The great beach which stretches north of Bude is backed by numerous reefs that stretch seawards from the cliffs - and you could easily walk half way, only to find yourself cut off by an incoming tide. In one or two places this could be dangerous because the waves go right up to the cliffs - even if your name was Chris Bonnington you’d have no way of escape. Summerleaze Downs and Crooklets Beach In the town of Bude there was a high-day-and-holiday atmosphere - the place seemed packed. Few though, were doing any traipsing - I’d say that fewer than one per cent of the crowd walked as much as half a mile along the great golden strand from the town beach. All the better for us then, as we set out across the pleasant wide open space of Summerleaze Downs - a wonderful bit of open land that would be the envy of any seaside town. It is remarkable that this prime coastal location has never been built upon, though we must turn a blind eye to the large supermarket that dominates the Bude end of the big grassy sward. Which is easy to do as we are heading in the other direction. We're now in what is grandly known as the Grenville Manor of Stratton - Stratton being a far more important historically speaking than tiny Bedes Haven - as Bude used to be known. Nowadays the roles are reversed and Stratton is really just a suburb of Bude. We walk down across the grass to Crooklets Beach and find our way on to the South West Coast Path. Crooklets means 'barrow' and two tumuli survive north of the beach and there are occasional finds of Mesolithic waste. Maer Down and Wrangle Point We're now on National Trust owned Maer Down and we climb quickly up to Wrangle Point which offers the most spectacular views of Bude. Careful as you go along here. The path is close to the unfenced edge and the Trust warns that, at normal times when stock graze on the Down, dog-owners should keep their pets on a lead as several frightened sheep are lost over the edge every year. Northcott Mouth is an altogether more peaceful place after the busy seaside resort, and it is as good a location as any for a picnic or a rest. A stream tumbles down the valley onto the beach, and beyond that the coast path wends its way to Duckpool. Returning Along the Golden Sands As I mentioned, I was in the company of a friend who really needs to be a lot fitter than he is, so we elected to return to Bude along those easy miles of golden sand. But not before I had inspected a barnacle encrusted girder or two that, I believe, is probably all that is left of the Portuguese steamer Belem - wrecked here on 20th November, 1917. I used the phrase ‘easy miles’ because, as readers will know, there are different types of sand and some does not lend itself to hiking. I am happy to report the grains at Bude are of the non-sinking variety - striding along here is as easy as walking along a pavement. You could even, if you wish, pick a bag of mussels from the rocks nearest the lapping sea. I did on a previous visit and very good they were too. And so we walk on past Crooklets Beach to reach The Breakwater which was built in 1823 to protect the canal only to be destroyed by storm and built again in 1838. Here you can climb Chapel Rock which is, I am told, the "very soul of Bude" and then proceed inland to the only lock-gates which open directly onto the Atlantic Ocean. The Remarkable Story of Bude Canal The gates belong, of course, to Bude Canal which was built early in the 1820's to carry calcium-rich sea sand to the farmers up in the Cornish and Devon hill-country where the soil was poor. It was a magnificent engineering feat and stretched nearly 35 miles from Bude to Launceston. All we needed to do now was stroll back into town to wherever it was we left our car, having enjoyed one of the best beach walks in the region. Fact File Start Point: Bude Visitor Centre, Crescent Car Park, between the canal and the River Neet. Distance and Going: Just under four miles, very easy going – BUT make sure tides are right. Further Information: The National Trust has a booklet called Bude to Morwenstow in which the geology, flora and fauna and history of the organisation's three local properties is described. Bootiful Bude If you’ve time take a turn around Bude’s town centre - it is one of those charming English seaside towns with lots of weird and wonderful independent shops. Bountiful Bude Make sure you grab a pasty in town. As far as the north coast is concerned Bude is the first major stop-off point as you enter Cornwall - and no visit to the Duchy would be complete without one of these savoury wonders. Boundless Bude If you want boundless views to the south of town wander up to The Pepperpot on the cliffs. The curious octagonal structure was built in 1835 for Sir Thomas Acland but was later moved slightly inland because of cliff erosion.

If you love Dartmoor’s wild edges and secret stories, this short circular walk from Cadover Bridge takes you deep into Trowlesworthy Warren, past ancient pillow mounds, granite tors, and the haunting white scars of the china clay pits. It’s a fine mix of moorland solitude, industrial history, and far-reaching views over Plymouth and the South Devon coast During our stay at Boringdon Hall, we took a five-minute drive up onto Dartmoor so we could enjoy a four-mile hike that took us from the banks of the River Plym near Cadover Bridge up to Great Trowlesworthy Tor, and then back via the edge of the Whitehall Yeo china clay pit. The most noticeable target when you park above Cadover Bridge is Little Trowlesworthy Tor, which lies above and to the east. Soon you begin to understand why the area is called Trowlesworthy Warren. The OS map calls them ‘Pillow Mounds’, but what that really means is that the many bumps you see scattered about this empty moor were once part of a huge man-made rabbit city. Trowlesworthy Warren: Ancient Rabbits and Prehistoric Remains But not all the bumpy bits around here are to do with rabbits – Trowlesworthy Warren is also covered with prehistoric remains like stone rows and circles. Up at the tor we turned around for the first time and were treated to huge vistas both towards Plymouth and the sea and into the great central southern hinterlands of Dartmoor. But most apparent of all were the massive china clay workings which dominate the scene to the south. Man-made lakes glinted in the sun and the general whiteness of the great scars gave rise to that inevitable phrase – lunar landscape. The Mystery of the Giant Granite Cylinder As we walked further east towards Great Trowlesworthy Tor, we came across a curious lump of rock. A massive cylindrical piece of granite lay at a jaunty angle as if someone had once tried to move it and had then given up. Apparently, quarrymen cut and shaped this marvellous thing way back in the early 1800s when Plymouth and Devonport were forever vying to out-do each other. This huge cylinder was intended to be the base for an enormous flagpole that would dominate the centre of Devonport. There are two arguments as to why it never reached town – one is that the mean-spirited burghers failed to collect the necessary funds – the other is that it was simply too heavy to move. Having seen it, I believe the latter. After visiting the higher tor, we took ourselves cross country to head downhill so that we could look over the edge of the colossal Whitehall Yeo china clay pit. It was then a simple walk back to the car. Another Look Back: Revisiting China Clay Country on Dartmoor Here is another version of the walk that I wrote 20 years ago with photos taken at the same time… This is China Clay Country. Not the better-known Cornish Alps north of St Austell, the other one. It's also Plym Country – the stream that lends its name to the city runs right under the big, bald plain of Trowlesworthy Warren. Indeed, the whole shooting match lies not more than a handful of miles from the head office of this newspaper – north-east across Bickleigh Vale and beyond the village of Shaugh Prior. Starting the Walk: Finding Cadover Bridge To find it, go to Cadover Bridge on the moor-hugging road that wends its ways from Ivybridge to Yelverton. A made-up road (not marked on the map) and then a track run east from the bridge along the Plym – I noticed on the hot evening of my visit that the area seems to be a popular haunt for Plymouthians. There were people everywhere – picnicking and swimming. But we ignored all this urban jollity and drove up the track a little way to park by an ice-cream van in a wide space near the bend where the Blacka Brook stream descends to join the Plym. The warren rose gently to our west, almost featureless until it met Little Trowlesworthy and then Great Trowlesworthy Tors. Walking Across the Moor: From Warren House to the Tors This is where I was required to walk – so I walked. But where? This might be a National Trust-owned property, but it's one of those low-key places where the organisation has decided not to bung up endless interpretation notice boards and the like at every touch and turn. I'm all for that – and so was only too happy to plunge into the wilderness. At Trowlesworthy this is surprisingly easy to do thanks to the track that leads to Trowlesworthy Warren House. The farm is the nearest thing the Plymouth area has to Wuthering Heights – you can imagine dark, brooding Heathcliffe lurking about this lonely place, being romantic in a sulky sort of way. Now the walker is introduced to the real open moor. In other words, there's no obvious track to follow but, as it's open access land, you can wander more or less where you will. The most noticeable target is Little Trowlesworthy Tor, which lies above and to the east and as you climb. Now you begin to glean why the place has the word 'Warren' as a suffix. The OS map calls them 'Pillow Mounds', but what that really means is that the many bumps you see scattered about this otherwise empty moor were once part of a huge man-made rabbit city. Rabbits, Quarrymen, and the Legends of the Leat A quick search on the Internet has informed me that this was a working warren for centuries – I have visions of rabbit meat being a regular 'special' in the dockside eateries around the mouth of the Tamar. No wonder sailors and fishermen had a superstitious horror for the word rabbit being spoken out loud as they headed for sea. The other fact that the website expounded upon was that quarrymen wanted to put a leat right across the warren as part of the extensive workings around here and were only allowed to do so after agreeing to put little bridges across so that the bunnies could wander hither and thither. You can still see the leat and you can still see the bridges. In fact you must cross the leat on your way up to the tor. We did so and had to pass a stallion who seemed to think he was lord and master of the place. We watched other ponies try to pass and he snorted them away – now it was our turn. He wasn't happy, but gave way with a show of great annoyance as we took no notice of his huff and puff. Dartmoor Views and the Great White Clay Pits By the way, not all the bumpy bits around here are to do with rabbits – Trowlesworthy Warren is covered with prehistoric remains like stone rows and circles. Up at the tor we turned around for the first time and were treated to huge vistas both towards Plymouth and the sea and into the great central southern hinterlands of Dartmoor. But most apparent of all were the massive china clay workings which dominate the scene to the south. Man-made lakes glinted in the sun and the general whiteness of the great scars gave rise to that inevitable phrase – lunar landscape. It's obvious that the tor has been greatly messed about with. Huge square-cut chunks of granite lie about the place as if someone at sometime was planning to build a structure of gigantic proportions. The Granite Flagpole Base and the Return Route As we walked further east towards Great Trowlesworthy Tor, we came across an even more curious lump of rock. A massive cylindrical piece of granite lay at a jaunty angle as if someone had once tried to move it and had then given up. Which, according to one website, is exactly what happened. Apparently, quarrymen cut and shaped this marvellous thing way back in the early 1800s when Plymouth and Devonport were separate places and forever vying to out-do each other. This huge cylinder was intended to be the base for an enormous flagpole that would dominate the centre of Devonport. There are two arguments as to why it never reached town – one is that the mean-spirited burghers failed to collect the necessary funds – the other is that it was simply too heavy to move. Having seen it, I believe the latter. After visiting the higher tor, we took ourselves cross country to head downhill so that we could look over the edge of the colossal Whitehall Yeo china clay pit. It was well worth the odd foot-soaking in the occasional bog. Talking of lunar landscapes, I bet you can see this place from the moon. A track skirts the western edge of the white abyss and eventually introduces the walker to the paved, Ordnance Survey-ignored road that then descends west back towards the Plym. A mile down this, and then a quarter mile shortcut across the slightly boggy sward, and we were back at our car. An extraordinary hike – not five miles from the centre of the region's biggest city – but a hike I feel I have, perhaps, only scratched the surface of. Unlike those china clay people who've dug very deep indeed. Fact File: Dartmoor Walk – Cadover Bridge to Great Trowlesworthy Tor Basic hike: From banks of the River Plym near Cadover Bridge, past Trowlesworthy Warren House to Great Trowlesworthy Tor, and then back via the edge of Whitehall Yeo china clay pit. Recommended map: Ordnance Survey OL map 28 – Dartmoor. Distance and going: Three-and-a-half miles, easy going but maybe boggy in places.

A Long and Exhilarating Dartmoor Hike Steeperton Tor looms in the distance above the young River Taw Here’s a long and exhilarating trudge up into the high country. For me it was the West Country equivalent of attempting to find the source of the Nile – I was following the Taw upstream for a series on the region's rivers and I thought the headwaters would give me a good excuse for a hike. They did that all right. Finding the source of the Taw took me on the longest hike this column has enjoyed for sometime – and I loved every squelchy, windblown moment of it. Taw Head is in the middle of nowhere – in other words, it’s plonk in the centre of Dartmoor’s northern vastness – which is as middle-of-nowhere-ish as you get in this peninsula. So, take your lives in your hands, and follow me up the Taw. I’ll admit before we begin that I never actually reached the teeny-weeny source, which spews from a bog under Hangingstone Hill, but I did get to a point where I could view the spring in all its wild and remote beauty. And that’ll do nicely, as the route made for a bracing and wonderful figure-of-8 walk. Belstone Starting the Walk at Belstone To begin we travel to the picturesque village of Belstone perched high above the A30 a few miles south-east of Okehampton. I parked by the side of a common just down the lane from the curious looking pub, and admired the view of spectacular Belstone Cleave before setting off in a southerly direction into the moors. IF YOU ENJOY THIS HIKE CHECK OUT OTHERS BY CLICKING HERE Walkers set of from Belstone By-the-way, Belstone is a most attractive place, largely unspoilt by the ubiquitous bungalow development that has visually polluted so much of our peninsula – and it’s just a few minutes off the big main road, so make a note to pop up there sometime, even if it’s just for a drink and a short stroll. A track introduced me to the tumbling River Taw after I’d walked around the back of a Christian residential centre and found myself standing in what I presumed were sheep dipping pens. By opening a gate and walking through these pens I was able to gain the rough path that faithfully climbs alongside the waterfalls and rapids. A young River Taw Along the Upper River Taw For this is the theme of the first half-mile into the wilderness – the Taw seems in a great rush to leave the moor. Then, as if by some geographical magic, things change. The river ceases to rumble and roar and we enter a quiet stretch where the water moves sleek and silent down a narrow channel. And suddenly, looking up, the walker realises that he has entered an entirely new demesne – a secret world tucked away and shielded by great hills all around. The River Taw at Taw Marsh It’s called Taw Marsh, and it looks like something out of Africa’s Serengeti. I have never seen anything like this place anywhere else in the region – an enclosed plain where the river forgets its moorland rush to meander quietly this way and that in a series of wide, beach-lined pools. It comes as a complete surprise and for a moment you are forced to stop and stare. The place is dominated by the tall triangular peak of Steeperton Tor and somehow you can imagine H. Rider Haggard writing a novel about some long lost tribe hiding out up there. The two dippers which had escorted me up the rushing part of the stream departed and were replaced by a pair of ravens. These seemed most indignant at my arrival in their secret world, and I soon found out why. They had been about the gory business of pecking out the insides of a drowned sheep. She was caught up on a branch in one of the bends in the river, and I was horrified to see that her unborn lamb had survived its mother’s death and attempted to climb out of the hole made by the birds. Nature’s own terrible Caesarean had failed – the unborn lamb only made it halfway into this cruel world. Looking down on Taw Marsh Climbing Oke Tor and Steeperton Gorge I walked quickly away and climbed the almost imperceptible path that took me on a diagonal route to the top of Oke Tor. The rocks up here look like so many pancakes piled one upon another – fossilised silt, I suppose, of some ancient primeval sea. Anyway, they made a good windbreak – or they did the day I visited earlier this week when the wind was howling across from the colossus of Yes Tor. After a sheltered breather from the gale I moved on, south to the lip of Steeperton Gorge. This is one of two defiles that isolate splendid Steeperton Tor and make it the distinct mountain it is. A bit confusing really because the easterly one is called Steeperton Brook so you’d think it would have the gorge named after it. But it’s the western defile, the Taw, which gets the appellation, as it cleaves its way down from the southerly heights. The pancake rocks of Oke Tor Reaching Taw Head From Oke Tor to this point I’d followed a recognisable track and, as this now veered away from the gorge to climb the flanks of Okement Hill, I followed in the belief it would sooner or later reveal the birthplace of the Taw. It did. After I’d crossed a level plain that formed the watershed between the Taw and Okement Rivers, I was able to branch south again up Okement Hill, and long before I reached the top I could see Taw Head. Unremarkable bog it might be, but the landscape has a wild, untamed beauty of its own and I look forward to returning when I explore the Okement Rivers. But now I retraced my tracks and returned to the watershed where I followed the left-hand track down the hill. Just past the clatter of rocks in the small coombe, I left the track to follow the 420 metre contour back along the western flank of Oke Tor, and this took me north to the ridge that stretches between Oke and Belstone Tors. Belstone Tor Belstone Tor and the Nine Maidens The latter eminence affords some of the finest views in the West Country. From its rocky peak you can see all of central and North Devon as well as much of northern Cornwall. It is one of the most boulder-strewn hills on Dartmoor, and you must take great care not to turn an ankle when making your way north again, down across its flanks to Belstone. And take care too, not to annoy the Nine Maidens of Belstone Common who either dance here every noon – or every Hunter’s Moon - depending on which myth you believe. Anyway, they’re moody phantoms who were turned to stone for dancing on the Sabbath – just like the Merry Maidens across the Tamar vale at lofty Minnions. So watch your step and you’ll re-enter the world of man at Belstone unscathed but weary after a long and spectacular Dartmoor dawdle. Walk Fact File Route From Belstone (near Okehampton) south into the moors following the Taw. At Taw Marsh our route climbs Oke Tor and continues south up Okement Hill, before returning alongside Oke Tor to gain the ridge leading to Belstone Tor. Then it’s simply a case of descending over Belstone Common back to the village. Recommended Map Ordnance Survey Outdoor Leisure Map 28 – Dartmoor. Distance and Difficulty Seven miles, fairly easy going except for boulder clatter in places. Highlights Following the River Taw towards its source Taw Marsh's unique hidden landscape Oke Tor and Steeperton Gorge Views from Belstone Tor Dartmoor wildlife and folklore Spectacular panoramas across Devon and Cornwall

There is a certain kind of freedom that comes from setting off on a long drive — windows down, a good road ahead, and the horizon pulling you forward. Whether you're navigating the high roads of Dartmoor, the twisting byways of Devon or tracing the coastal lanes of Cornwall, or embarking on a European road trip, the quality of your car's contact with the road matters enormously. Most drivers focus on fuel, maps, and accommodation when planning a driving adventure, yet overlook one of the most fundamental elements of the experience: their wheels and tyres. Performance You Can Actually Feel The right set of wheels and tyres can transform a journey from merely functional to genuinely pleasurable. Good tyres improve grip on wet roads, reduce braking distances, and absorb the kind of road surface imperfections that are all too common on British country lanes. If you've ever felt uncertain navigating a tight bend on a rainy Somerset hillside, the chances are your tyres deserve some of the blame — and some attention. Visit Elite Wheels & Tyres for premium wheels and tyres that enhance your car's appearance while improving handling and driving confidence. Everyday Driving, Elevated in Style Safety is not everything, of course, looks matter too, particularly for people who see their vehicles as friends during drives instead of simple items moving point one to point two. Good alloy rims might make a machine seem sharper, more intentional looking which fits the feeling of exploration you wish to show. There is some quiet pleasure in stopping behind and gazing at your ride prior to a lengthy journey — understanding it appears correct alongside doing what it should. Choosing the Right Tyres for Your Terrain For most road trip lovers, it’s worth choosing tyres that suit the type of terrain they’ll be driving on. Motorways require quite a different set of tyres from those needed for single-track country roads or the dirt tracks that lead to isolated beaches. All-season tyres have gained a lot of popularity among drivers in the UK mainly because of how unpredictable the UK climate is. A tyre that can handle both the summer and the winter drizzle is definitely a good investment. The Hidden Cost of Neglect Wheels and tyres have a bigger effect on fuel economy than many expect. Under-inflated or worn tyres raise rolling resistance, so the engine must work harder, and you burn more fuel. On long trips — especially overseas — those small inefficiencies really add up. Keeping your tyres in good condition makes sense for both your wallet and your safety. Drive with Confidence, Every Mile To sum up, every memorable driving journey depends on confidence, its surroundings, and one's ability to manage unexpected situations. The most direct way to reinforce that confidence is by selecting wheels and tyres that are of good quality.

There is a moment on the approach to Château de la Treyne that stays with you forever. As you drive across a narrow suspension bridge spanning the Dordogne River, you look up to see a dramatic 14th-century fortress perched high on a limestone cliff. Its beautifully proportioned towers and weathered stone battlements cast perfect reflections on the water below. Even after 40 years of travel writing, I found myself turning to my wife, Sue, and uttering: "Blimey! Are we really staying there?" While the castle is grand and imposing—the sort of place that feels built for the French aristocracy of old—the true magic of Château de la Treyne is how quickly it begins to feel like a home. The atmosphere is completely defined by a sense of "curated silence." Behind the chateau, a dense, wild forest stretches across 120 acres of the estate, balanced beautifully in the foreground by formal gardens filled with manicured box hedges and neat gravel paths. The wide, stone-flagged terrace feels like the deck of a great ship. It is the perfect spot to sit and watch the evening light catch the grey-gold of the Quercy stone. Inside, the grand suites overlook the winding river, where the shrill cries of martins and swifts darting past the windows make you wonder if you are waking or dreaming. The investment and passion poured into this independent estate are visible in every corner, but it is the warmth of the hospitality that sets it apart. The staff treat you with an easy friendliness that completely strips away any stiff formality. We spent an unforgettable evening chatting with the charming owner, Stéphanie, who recounted how she and her husband spent years restoring the fortress. On a night when the main kitchen was closed, she personally prepared and served us a fresh salad alongside a selection of delightful local cheeses. It is this rare blend of absolute structural perfection and genuine, family-style hospitality that makes the chateau entirely unique. Travel Planner's Note Getting There & Staying Smart: The highly rural, unspoilt landscapes of central south-western France offer a perfect "staycation-style" getaway that is easily accessible. While flying into Limoges is incredibly efficient, these destinations are no more than a day's drive from the ferry terminal at Roscoff, making a classic road trip an exceptional option. When organising travel logistics, utilising Holiday Extras for airport parking, hotels, and lounges can significantly cut costs—with travellers saving an average of £200 per trip by booking their parking arrangements well in advance. Find out more at HolidayExtras.com or via 0800 316 5678.

Parkland, Porcelain History, and a Vanished World For those arriving by air, La Chapelle Saint Martin serves as a sublime pastoral gateway to southwest France. Located just minutes from Limoges airport, this elegant 19th-century manor house was originally built as the country retreat for a wealthy porcelain manufacturer. Today, it offers a completely different flavour of rural charm, trade-marking the expansive, rolling parklands of the Haute-Vienne. The house sits within a forty-acre estate populated by ancient cedars, sprawling lawns, and a series of quiet, small lakes. Walking through the grounds feels like stepping directly into a 19th-century landscape painting—a beautifully manicured wilderness that provides a deeply peaceful environmental palate cleanser. The owners, Gilles Dudognon and Aude Bourliataux, have built an impressive local heritage empire under the Collection Saint Martin banner. Chef Gilles, who celebrates 40 years of holding a Michelin star, has extended his culinary vision into the heart of Limoges. His ventures include La Table du Couvent—an atmospheric restaurant in a 12th-century monastery canteen specialising in open-hearth Limousin beef—and Le 27, a stylish contemporary bistro and art gallery. They even run La Maison du Fromage, one of the oldest cheese shops in the region, featuring a remarkable three-level maturing cellar. For guests wishing to explore the wider countryside, they offer a vintage vehicle rental service called LocaPassion, keeping a fleet of classic Citroën 2CVs and Land Rovers on hand. During our stay, we took a short drive north into the Monts de Blond, a range of forested, granite-strewn hills, to visit the fascinating village of Montrol-Sénard. Here, time was effectively frozen in the year 1900. It operates as a poignant, open-air "village-musée" where you can wander entirely freely through a perfectly preserved schoolhouse, a cobbler’s workshop, and traditional farm cottages without any tickets or payments. The quiet, vanished nostalgia of the place captures the Limousin before the rush of the modern world. In many ways, its stillness and deep rural character reminded me of the West Country of my youth—a beautiful, silent space that time has almost forgotten. Travel Planner's Note Getting There & Staying Smart: The highly rural, unspoilt landscapes of central south-western France offer a perfect "staycation-style" getaway that is easily accessible. While flying into Limoges is incredibly efficient, these destinations are no more than a day's drive from the ferry terminal at Roscoff, making a classic road trip an exceptional option. When organising travel logistics, utilising Holiday Extras for airport parking, hotels, and lounges can significantly cut costs—with travellers saving an average of £200 per trip by booking their parking arrangements well in advance. Find out more at HolidayExtras.com or via 0800 316 5678.

White dunes of the Curonian Spit I have just returned from a truly magnificent press trip to Lithuania, and I am still buzzing from the experience. It was a hugely enjoyable, fascinating, and deeply interesting journey that took me through some of the most beautiful and unique coastal landscapes northern Europe has to offer. From the shifting sand dunes of the dramatic Curonian Spit to the peaceful waterways of the Nemunas Delta, this is a region that captured my imagination. I am already at work on a major, in-depth Hesp Out West style feature where I will delve into the rich culture, wonderful people, incredible food, and spectacular landscapes I encountered. Fascinating raised bogs of the Nemunas Delta That comprehensive write-up will be landing on this website very soon. However, because I know many of you will want to add this destination to your own travel wishlists , I wanted to share some highly useful, practical recommendations right away. Sent over by my fantastic PR guide from the trip, here is the essential, boots-on-the-ground information you need to navigate Lithuania’s stunning coastal region with ease. Getting Around: Airport Transfers and Car-Sharing Palanga International Airport Transport: Public transport is available from the airport, though it isn't always the most convenient option depending on your arrival time. For a seamless journey, you can pre-book a transfer using the Bolt app. Prices are very reasonable, usually ranging from €10 to €28 depending on your final destination. Useful Link: Download or book via the Bolt App Self-Driving with CityBee: If you prefer the freedom of driving yourself without the hassle of traditional rental desks, look out for the CityBee car-sharing service. You will find their cars conveniently parked right near the airport exit. Useful Link: CityBee Car-Sharing Lithuania Navigating Public Transport, Trains, and Ferries Bus Travel: If you plan to use the national bus network, you can easily check schedules and buy your tickets in advance online. Useful Link: Lithuanian Bus Tickets and Schedules Train Travel: For exploring Lithuania by rail, tickets and routes can be managed directly through the official rail portal. Useful Link: LTG Link Lithuanian Railways Crossing to the Curonian Spit (Neringa): If you are heading out to the magical Curonian Spit, it is vital to check the ferry timetables before you travel. Be aware that there are separate terminals depending on whether you are traveling as a foot passenger only or crossing with a vehicle. Useful Link: Keltas Ferry Timetables and Info Money, Language, and Local Advice Cards vs. Cash: Digital and mobile payments are accepted almost everywhere you go in Lithuania. However, it is still highly recommended to keep some euros in cash on you, particularly if you want to sample local delicacies at the traditional markets or use smaller, local transport services. Language: Language barriers are virtually non-existent for visitors here. In the vast majority of hotels, restaurants, and tourism services, the staff speak excellent English. Nature, Wildlife, and Cycling Highlights National and Regional Parks: The coastal region is a haven for nature lovers, boasting the Seaside Regional Park, the Nemunas Delta Regional Park, and the crown jewel—the Curonian Spit National Park. UNESCO World Heritage: The breathtaking landscape of the Curonian Spit is so culturally and naturally significant that it was officially inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2000. A Paradise for Birdwatching: If you are an avid birdwatcher or nature enthusiast, pack your binoculars. The region sits directly on a major international migration route between the White Sea and the Baltic Sea, making it a globally significant location for scientific research and birdwatching. Two-Wheeled Adventures: The area is a dream for cyclists, forming part of the EuroVelo network. Specifically, the EuroVelo 10 (Baltic Sea Cycle Route) runs right through the coastal area and the Curonian Spit, seamlessly connecting the Klaipėda region with neighbouring Baltic countries. (Stay tuned for the full, detailed feature on my Lithuanian adventures coming to the website very soon!) Hesp sets sail - in a land-yacht on the Curonian Spit