We have just arrived in Paphos, Cyprus for a small convention organised by the British Guild of Travel Writers. I have been looking forward to this little trip, as it's been 32 long years since I was last here - and a great deal has changed on the island since. For a start, back in those days most roads north of the town or inland were not much more than dirt tracks. That is very much not the case now. Paphos has been quietly moving with the times. It is a place where Roman mosaics and UNESCO-listed tombs sit just a short distance from a harbour that still feels like the heart of the town. For those of us visiting with the British Guild of Travel Writers, the city served as a reminder that Cyprus doesn’t need to shout to get your attention; the history and the sea air do most of the work. The town itself is split between the old quarter on the hill and the coastal Kato Paphos. It is a walkable stretch of coastline, punctuated by the mediaeval castle and a promenade that leads you past archaeological sites that date back to the 4th century BC. It remains a reliable destination for anyone who prefers their sunshine served with a side of genuine antiquity. As is so often the case with the BGTW, we have a full and exciting itinerary - and we are staying in what must be one of the best hotels in Cyprus... View from the newly revamped top floor of the Asimina Suites Hotel The Constantinou Bros Legacy The hotel landscape in Paphos is largely shaped by the Constantinou Bros Hotels. This is a family-run outfit, founded by Cypriots back in the late 1970s. They have a knack for picking prime beachfront spots, and their presence here is substantial, with four major properties including the Pioneer Beach and Athena Royal. What sets them apart is a focus on the "adult-focused" market. They’ve moved away from the noisy, family-resort model, opting instead for a quieter, more refined style of hospitality. It’s an approach that suits the Paphos temperament well—focused on good food, unhurried service, and a certain level of calm. A Refreshed Paphos Retreat: The Asimina Suites My suite in the newly revamped top floor of the Asimina Suites Hotel Our base for the trip was the Asimina Suites Hotel, a five-star, all-suite property that has just undergone a significant six-month revamp. It reopened in May 2026, and while the core of the hotel remains familiar to its many repeat guests, the updates are noticeable. The New Floor: A brand-new top floor has been added, housing the Deluxe Superior One Bedroom Sea View Suites. These offer the kind of uninterrupted Mediterranean views you’d expect, but with a layout that actually gives you room to breathe. The St Andrews Rooftop Bar: This is perhaps the most significant change—a new venue for sundowners that looks out over the coast. It’s sophisticated without being flashy. Refined Spaces: The VIPS Bar and the Lounge Bar have both been expanded to accommodate the hotel’s popularity, and the Estia Restaurant has been given a refresh, including new wooden flooring that lightens the whole space. The hotel remains an adults-only haven. It’s the sort of place where you can take a morning swim in the interconnected pools, wander through the gardens to the beach, or spend an hour in the Elixir Spa without the usual holiday clamour. For a journalist looking for a quiet desk or a traveller looking for a proper rest, it hits the mark.

A table with a view at the amazing Chateau de la Treyne For some of us the act of eating and tasting food or drink can be as interesting and profound as, say, listening to a piece of music or examining a painting. There are those who would disagree, but I know it to be true, simply because of the number of people who are willing to spend large sums on eating at award-winning restaurants. And across the wide and fertile acres of our near neighbour, France, the percentage of food-loving citizens increases dramatically. I was thinking this one evening last week just after I had popped a humble cockle into my mouth. A small shellfish I’ve enjoyed all my life, but this cockle was different. It was a super-cockle. It was as if the most cockly cockle in the world had been produced especially for this moment of personal enjoyment. It tasted of the essence of ocean. It’s velvety texture was salty, sweet and creamy all at the same time. It was so sublime, a little tear in my eye represented the kind of ecstasy I was feeling in that brief moment. Gilles Dudognon had invited another Michelin starred chef, Mathieu Guibert (chef-owner of the renowned Anne de Bretagne, located in La Plaine-sur-Mer - two stars in his case), from Brittany A Collaboration of Culinary Masters Over-the-top about this one cockle? I’d argue not… Why? Because my wife and I were at a special celebratory dinner in a well-known restaurant in southwest France being staged to celebrate the chef’s 40 years of holding a Michelin star. To mark the occasion Gilles Dudognon had invited another Michelin starred chef, Mathieu Guibert (chef-owner of the renowned Anne de Bretagne, located in La Plaine-sur-Mer - two stars in his case), from Brittany to help him prepare this very special banquet. It was Mathieu who’d brought these fresh live cockles from his local estuary - and here’s the thing… This particular course (there were many) was taking its time and the waitress explained that chef had insisted each and every little cockle should not be opened until just seconds before it was required. He’d declared no one could possibly enjoy the explosive freshness of the shellfish if it was opened even minutes before serving, let alone hours. And he was right. These were by far the best cockles I have ever eaten. Fabulous new pigeon dish at Gilles Dudognon’s La Chapelle Saint Martin The Relais & Châteaux "Triple Crown" So what was an Exmoor peasant like me doing in such a place, attending such a special dinner? For that I have to thank a friend who is a top travel PR - the same chap who took Hesp Out West on a tour of the Dordogne last autumn, the results of which were reported in these pages. Because I’d shown massive enthusiasm for the food, he invited me back to sample three glorious hotels with Michelin-starred restaurants, all within a triangle that required no more than a couple of hours driving. It was at Gilles Dudognon’s La Chapelle Saint Martin, just outside Limoges that we enjoyed the feast which so warmed the cockles of my heart. The other two establishments were Le Vieux Logis, in the pretty village of Tremolat in the River Dordogne, and Château de la Treyne, perched high above the same gorgeous waterway but some 50 miles upstream. Together they represent some of the best of their kind in all of France. The terrace at Chateau de la Treyne I am backed in that assertion by the fact that all three are members of Relais & Châteaux - an organisation built on the “five Cs”… Character, Courtesy, Calm, Charm, and Cuisine. Unlike large international luxury chains where a room in Paris looks identical to one in New York, this association mandates that every property be a unique reflection of its local terroir. So the member hotels are not corporate-run entities - they are often family-owned estates where guests are treated like friends of the family. Part of the La Chapelle Saint-Martin dining set up Whether it is the riverside drama of Château de la Treyne, the garden intimacy of Le Vieux Logis, or the parkland elegance of La Chapelle Saint Martin, the common thread is an obsession with the “Art of Living”. And the association has a deep commitment to culinary preservation. By staying at these properties, you are not just getting a Michelin-starred meal, you are supporting a system that champions local farmers and traditional French techniques, ensuring unique flavours in places like the Dordogne or the Limousin remain for the next generation of travellers. I was so impressed, I’m doing two articles about the trip - this one concentrating on all that glorious Michelin food - and next week looking at the three hotels from the perspective of their locales. Why go to such trouble? Because this year more people are booking either staycation holidays or trips to nearby places, for obvious reasons - and the places I am mentioning are no more than a day’s drive from Roscoff at the other end of the Plymouth ferry. I flew because, as usual, I was in a journalist’s hurry - but I’d definitely take the car next time. The garden at Le Vieux Logis, First Stop: Le Vieux Logis, Trémolat We began at Le Vieux Logis, a charming hotel in the picturesque village of Tremolat, close to where the Dordogne and Vézère rivers meet. The 16th-century priory is now a luxurious four-star hotel renowned for its gastronomic restaurant, led by Michelin-starred chef Vincent Arnould, serving refined, modern cuisine rooted in classic French technique and local specialties like truffle and foie gras. We enjoyed the springtime menu which included the area’s first green asparagus, served simply as a salad with fresh goat cheese and wild garlic. This was followed by a fillet of brill served with stuffed morels, broad beans. The main savoury dish was a “declination” of lamb, which translates as a slice of roasted leg and a cutlet served with Sarladaise potatoes and spring turnips. The spuds are named after the medieval town of Sarlat-la-Canéda, and are considered the ‘King of Potatoes’ in France. The restaurant at The garden at Le Vieux Logis, is in a wonderfully converted barn Obviously there were the usual amuse bouche as well as sweet courses and cheese as part of the Springtime Stroll Menu (“Balade Printanière”). I’m loathe to talk about anything as vulgar as money, but just to give an idea - this costs 130 euros a head with the sommelier’s wine selection at 25 euros. That is £135 for a truly memorable meal, in an exquisite restaurant with top notch wine. I’ll leave the reader to make UK comparisons. Riverside Grandeur: Château de la Treyne The next day we journeyed alongside the river, upstream to Chateau de la Treyne, which is where my jaw dropped. I mean dropped with awe. It is one of the loveliest hotels I have visited in over 40 years of travel writing - another reason I’ll be writing more about it next week. The wonderful Chateau de la Treyne hangs above the Dordogne River After entering the fabulous old chateau, perched on a cliff edge 100 feet above the river, I did manage to get my job working again - to work its way through the following menu prepared by chef Stephane Andrieux who has worked at the chateau for 28 years and who’s held a Michelin star for the past 25. Not mentioning the amuse bouche etc, I had a starter of pan-roasted foie gras, served with local white asparagus and crisped couscous pearls. My wife enjoyed blue lobster braised with organic baby carrots, ginger, lemon thyme, and a coconut-lemongrass bisque. For a mains, I went for the Quercy lamb rack, interestingly larded with smoked trout from the nearby Blagour abyss (an underground spring), served with spinach and spring vegetables. Rather surprisingly for her, Sue had the Label Rouge veal from Aveyron, served with a “garden” of peas and carrots. For pudding it was the Caribbean coffee-chocolate delice with tonka bean and cacao nibs for me, and the strawberry sablé infused with meadowsweet for Sue. The cheese course at Chateau de la Treyne I won’t bang on about how superb all this was, because you can take it on auto-pilot that it really was. I will say that the elegant dining room’s window table offered the kind of set-up I imagine you find in heaven once you’ve gone upstairs having led and absolutely saintly and blameless life. I will never forget that evening, eating the most delicious food imaginable watching the swallows darting over the waters of the Dordogne River 100 feet below. The exquisite Chateau de la Treyne Parkland Elegance: La Chapelle Saint-Martin As mentioned, we also had a very memorable dinner at La Chapelle Saint-Martin, a hotel restaurant set in its own parkland just minutes away from Limoges airport. Parkland Elegance: La Chapelle Saint-Martin As that meal was a one-off celebration, I’ll describe the normal run of fare… For example, there are starters such as seared langoustines served with local black bacon, early peas, poultry jus and a light shell foam, or mushroom ravioli, served with Comté cream and raw mushrooms. Main courses include Limousin rack of veal served with a ragout of its own juices and a deep truffle jus; or pollack served with a beurre blanc enriched with Neuvic caviar and a fresh artichoke tartare; or the magnificent Hare à la Royale - a classic for those seeking the pinnacle of traditional French game cookery. God knows how many pounds I put on last week, and I do not regret a single ounce. Magnificent. The perfect gastronomic holiday. Next week I’ll explain why this area is so idyllic and lovely I was half tempted to move there full-time. Fact File: The Southwest French "Triple Crown” Le Vieux Logis Set in a beautifully restored former tobacco-drying barn and priory, this hotel is the epitome of Périgord charm, complete with mill leat and French gardens. Location: 24510 Trémolat, France. Chef: Vincent Arnould. Key Feature: Intimate, garden-focused luxury in a quiet Dordogne village. Website: vieux-logis.com Château de la Treyne Dramatic 14th-century fortress perched on a limestone cliff directly overlooking the Dordogne river. Often cited as one of the most beautiful "castle hotels" in France. Location: 46200 Lacave, France. Chef: Stéphane Andrieux. Key Feature: The "Grand Terrace" over the river and 120 acres of private forest and parkland. Website: chateaudelatreyne.com La Chapelle Saint Martin A 19th-century manor house set within a 40-acre park. It serves as the perfect gateway to the region due to its proximity to Limoges. Location: 87510 Nieul (near Limoges), France. Chef: Gilles Dudognon (celebrating 40 years of Michelin stars in 2026). Key Feature: A celebration of Limousin heritage and parkland elegance. Website: chapellesaintmartin.com Travel Information Martin flew to Limoges from Stansted - Holiday Extras is market leader in airport parking, hotels, lounges, and transfers – in 2025 its customers saved an average of £200 per trip by booking their airport parking in advance. Booking an airport hotel with parking means less hassle and can actually cost less than booking parking alone. One nights’ standard room with breakfast at Hampton by Hilton, with six days’ Meet and Greet parking at Stansted Airport is available for £302.91 (based on arrival on 12/05/2026). Plus with Flextras, if you need to cancel or amend you can without charge. For more information, HolidayExtras.com or call 0800 316 5678.

Pint of Guinness in the Luttrell Arms Secret Garden, Dunster The Glories of Pub Gardens As I strode along Cogden Beach in warm sunshine recently, my thoughts turned to the great reopening. By which I mean not pubs after lockdown—but the simple return of warmer days and the end of winter. Over Easter I saw any number of pubs, restaurants and cafés throwing open their outdoor spaces—and they were rammed. We are, it seems, a nation that simply needs to be outside when the weather plays ball. And few pleasures compare to what I call “eating the view.” Best Pub Gardens in Cornwall View of Bryher in the Scillies from close to New Inn Tresco The New Inn, Tresco, Isles of Scilly After a Skybus-and-ferry journey, this is bliss. Sub-tropical planting, sea views to Bryher, and food that always seems to taste better for the effort it took to get there. https://www.tresco.co.uk/eat-drink/new-inn Cadgwith Cove Inn, Lizard A proper working fishing village backdrop and a pint after a long drive down the Lizard—hard to beat. https://www.cadgwithcoveinn.co.uk Looking out of the Cadgwith Inn to the small cosy garden The Mariners, Rock For those who like their garden with a side of serious food—this one has a loyal following for good reason. https://www.themarinersrock.co.uk Looking across Camel Estuary to Rock, home of the Mariners Inn The Ship Inn, Porthleven A classic harbour-side perch where the view does half the work and the atmosphere does the rest. https://theshipinnporthleven.co.uk/ Gurnard’s Head, West Penwith Wild, remote, and beautifully understated—this is outdoor dining with a sense of place right out in the hills of West Penwith. https://www.gurnardshead.co.uk/ Local foraging exert gathers wild greens for the Gurnard's Head Best Pub Gardens in Devon The Turf on the Exe Estuary The Turf Locks, Exe Estuary Half the pleasure is getting there—bike, boat or boot leather. Then comes the reward. Booking highly recommended. https://www.turflock.co.uk Bike or walk - the only way to get to Turf Lock on the Exe Estuary The Ferry Boat Inn, Shaldon A grandstand view of estuary life—boats, birds, and the odd bit of drama. https://www.ferryboatinnshaldon.co.uk The garden at the Ferry Boat Inn, Shaldon with views across to Teignmouth The Pig’s Nose, East Prawle Not so much a garden—more a village-wide sprawl on sunny days. All the better for it. One of my favourite pubs in all the world. https://www.pigsnoseinn.co.uk/ The author and the landlady - Martin Hesp with Lesley from the Pig's Nose The Malsters, Tuckenhay A dream pub with a fabulous waterside garden that encourages lingering. Great food and good rooms. https://www.themaltstersarms.co.uk The Maltsters at Tuckenay in South Devon The Drewe Arms, Drewsteignton Right on the edge of Dartmoor—classic, timeless, and exactly what you hope for. https://www.thedrewearms.co.uk The Drewe Arms at pretty little Drewsteignton on the edge of Dartmoor The Millbrook Inn, South Pool Known for its garden setting and strong food reputation. A bit tucked away—and all the better for it. https://www.millbrookinnsouthpool.co.uk Collecting vegetables for the excellent food at the Millbrook Inn The Mason’s Arms, Knowstone Food-led, but with a garden that makes you want to linger. A truly fabulus inn located in an out of the way village close to southern Exmoor. https://www.masonsarmsknowstone.co.uk Two journalistic colleagues at the Mason Arms, Knowstone Best Pub Gardens in Somerset View from the "Secret Garden" at Dunster - looking across to Dunster Castle The Luttrell Arms, Dunster One of my regular haunts. The “secret garden” is sheltered, atmospheric, and ideal for a quiet pint. https://luttrellarms.co.uk/ The 'secret garden' at the Luttrell Arms, Dunster Porlock Weir Hotel, Porlock Right on the harbour edge—peaceful, scenic, and wonderfully unhurried. And great food. https://porlockweirhotel.co.uk/ View from the garden at Porlock Weir Hotel The Farmer’s Arms, Combe Florey Near the Quantocks, with a proper country garden and excellent food. https://www.thefarmersarmscombeflorey.co.uk Jane and Tim, landlords of the Farmer's Arms, Combe Florey The Carew Arms, Crowcombe A classic village pub with a generous lawn and right next to the beautiful Quantock Hills. https://www.carewarmscrowcombe.co.uk Garden at the Carew Arms, Crowcombe The King Alfred, Burrowbridge Out on the Levels—open, slightly wild, and especially good at sunset. https://www.kingalfredinn.co.uk Best Pub Gardens in Dorset The Club House Garden, West Bexington The Club House, West Bexington Sea air, seafood, and that glorious Chesil Beach backdrop. https://www.theclubhousewestbexington.co.uk/ Fish at the Club House, West Bexington The Anchor Inn, Seatown A fine place to sit and watch the world—and the tide—go by. And a great centre for some dramatic coastal walking. https://www.anchorinnseatown.co.uk The Anchor Inn at Seatown, Dorset coast The Bottle Inn, near Lambert's Castle One of the best and most quirky pubs in Dorset. Very simple food but good - and fabulous beer and cider. https://www.thebottleinnmarshwood.co.uk Landlord and landlady of the Bottle Inn, Dorset Unique & Unusual Outdoor Dining River Exe Café A floating dining experience reached by boat—still on my list, I must admit. https://www.riverexecafe.com/ A Final Thought This is, of course, a ridiculously short list. After decades of beetling around the West Country I could easily name dozens more—and no doubt you have your own favourites. If you know a pub with a garden that deserves a mention, do drop me a line at how@martinhesp.co.uk. Because when the sun shines in this part of the world, there are few better places to be than sitting outside with a pint, a plate, and a view worth savouring.

A hiker admires one of the "wild" sculptures on Cogden Beach, Dorset There are times when you can spend far too much time behind a steering wheel. It happened to me the other day when several appointments took me to deepest darkest Dorset… As I began the drive home - along what must be one of the most dramatic coastal roads in England (the B3157) - I caught a glimpse of the car park close to Cogden Beach and before I knew it I was enjoying a good walk along the shore. Finding Cogden Beach on the Dorset Coast To find this particular corner of our glorious littoral you need to travel along the scenic coast road that climbs east out of Burton Bradstock to eventually reach Abbotsbury. Just a mile along the B3157 you will see the National Trust car park, that seems to be there for no other purpose than to give motorists a glorious view. However, a paved path descends a quarter of a mile through trust-owned land down to Cogden Beach. You could, if you wish, begin a seaside stroll further west at Burton Beach, which is the coastal end of the village of that name – then scrunch your way along Hive Beach - before reaching the spot where I descended to the sea, but you will only see more of the same if you do… Track down to Cogden Beach Walking Along Chesil Beach What I did was walk down from the car park and turn left to stride along the shoreline to West Bexington. This is more arduous than it sounds - as anyone who has ever attempted to walk the length of nearby Chesil Beach (of which this is the most western part) will tell you, the loose gravel that creates this shoreline consists does not lend itself to the human gait. Your feet sink in the same way they would in soft sand, so that walking one mile in it requires the same exertion has marching three on a normal surface. What you find yourself doing is walking in a peculiar flat-footed kind of way because the normal action of planting down your ankle first then exchanging your weight forwards using the length of your foot is guaranteed to sink each footstep deeper. (If you're enjoying this article take a look at solme of our other West Country walks posts here ) The Peculiar Art of Walking on Shingle The flat-footed style is an inelegant stomp which will make you look either like some kind of rustic simpleton or a weird spawn of Frankenstein. My companion and I experimented with various kinds of foot-placement as we made our way the two miles to West Bexington and eventually came out on the side of the hip-swinging, mincing gait you sometimes seen employed by a pantomime dame. Don’t worry about looking daft - you’re unlikely to be spotted by anyone. Not many people stroll east along Cogden Beach, probably because it is so exhausting. The beach stretches west towards West Bay with Golden Cap in the background Why This Dorset Walk Is Worth It Well worthwhile, though, because it is one of those big long ozone-filled beaches that is guaranteed somehow to invigorate the inner areas of one’s dusty soul, especially after a long winter. The joy of this walk is partly thanks to the fact that the most amazing artworks made of flotsam and jetsam are to be found along the shore. Who builds them, and why, I have no idea. I was just glad that they’d taken the trouble to do so. The little beach sculptures are fun. West Bexington and a Notable Restaurant Anyway, eventually we reach West Bexington which has featured in this series before when we visited the much-celebrated Club House . I say “much-celebrated” because the place has won not only two AA rosettes but a huge reputation. The young head chef, Will Hickton, is a talented chap who is passionate about using the freshest local produce at the restaurant, which is part of a triumvirate that includes the Hive Beach Café in Burton Bradstock and The Watch House. Will’s lobster bisque was one of the best soups I’d consumed in a long time. We also enjoyed a gargantuan sea-bass, a sharing platter brought to us on a large wooden board with a few beautifully cooked chips and other sides such as a watercress salad and a creamy slaw. We cleared every last morsel and I heartily recommend the place. History, Smugglers and the Landscape Some years ago the National Trust purchased land along this coast to preserve the integrity of the entire length of Chesil Beach, and now leases the inland areas such as the acres around the wonderful Tamarisk Farm (which has also featured in these pages before) and much of the area is now designated as the West Bexington Nature Reserve. Tamarisk Farm The seaside hamlet looks modern, being basically a single street lined with villas, but the place is actually rich in history. The Domesday Book refers to a village called Bessintone and down the centuries there was a lot of smuggling hereabouts. One local who defied the excise-men was farmer Isaac Gulliver who lived above the coast here close to the Eggardon Hill. Apparently his farm was used as a logistics centre for industrial scale smuggling activities. The Return Along the Coast Path If you’re driving along up on the road you do not get the full atmosphere of just how lonely and empty this stretch of coast is, but down behind the reed-beds you can certainly see why the smugglers of old liked the place for their arcane goings on. The coast path weaves its way west behind the reed-filled lakes or meres and eventually brings you back to the concrete track that leads down from the trust car park. It’s not the longest or even the most dramatic coastal walk in our region, but it is breathtaking in its own way – and a great deal more magnificent than any shoreline some countries can boast. Fact File: Cogden Beach to West Bexington Walk Fact FileBasic walk: from Cogden Beach east of Burton Bradstock to West Bexington along the shore, returning via the coast path. Distance and going: four miles – difficult going thanks to beach gravel on way out, easy coming back.

La Chapelle Saint Martin MEAL TO REMEMBER Last night we were incredibly honoured to attend a special celebratory dinner at this famous restaurant just outside Limoges - and what a meal it was. One of the best I can remember - prepared by not one but two Michelin starred French chefs. More of that later, but first here's the story behind the celebrations. Gilles Dudognon - 40 Years a Michelin Chef There is a particular kind of magic that settles over a place when it has been loved, scrubbed, and perfected for decades. When you pull up the drive of La Chapelle Saint Martin, just outside Limoges, you aren’t just entering a hotel; you are stepping into a living, breathing testament to the art of French hospitality. And 2026 marks a milestone that few in the gruelling world of high gastronomy ever reach: forty consecutive years of holding a Michelin star. Gilles Dudognon (left) has managed a rare Michelin feat In an industry that often chases the "new" and the "trendy" until the soul of the cooking is bleached white, Gilles Dudognon has managed a much rarer feat. He has kept the flame burning without ever letting the smoke cloud his vision. To hold a star for four decades isn’t just about technical precision; it’s about a deep-rooted, stubborn sincerity. Gilles Dudognon with fellow Michelin chef Mathieu Guilbert The Flame That Never Faded I’ve always believed that the best food can help tell a blindfolded person exactly where they are standing. In the land of porcelain and rolling Limousin pastures, Gilles has spent forty years defending a "cuisine of truth." It is food that respects the seasons and, more importantly, the people who pull the ingredients from the soil. Looking ahead to this anniversary year, Gilles reflects on a journey that began under the tutelage of greats like Jean-Marie Amat and Philippe Da Silva. But he also credits the humble, generous influence of his grandmother, Marie, who taught him that the ultimate goal of cooking is the gift of the meal itself. "I have never considered this star an achievement," Gilles says, with the kind of humility you only find in masters of their craft. "But rather a responsibility to pass on, to move people, and to keep a soulful house alive." A Family Affair What makes 2026 truly special at La Chapelle isn't just the trophies on the wall, but the people in the kitchen and the corridors. This is a year of "transmission"—that beautiful French concept of passing the torch. Gilles is joined in this chapter by his partner Aude, who has helped shape the estate’s modern identity, and his son Henri. Seeing a new generation step into the fold, carrying the family motto—To live is to persist!—is, for Gilles, a greater pride than any accolade from Paris. A Year of Celebration If you find yourself in this corner of the Haute-Vienne in 2026, you are in for a treat. The estate is throwing open its doors for a year-long festival of gastronomy. Expect: Four-Hands Dinners: Gilles welcoming great chef friends into his kitchen for collaborative feasts. Garden Events: Making the most of the stunning Saint Martin grounds with convivial outdoor gatherings. Cultural Performances: Blending the arts with the table. Charity Initiatives: Including a dedicated commitment to Pink October. La Chapelle Saint Martin has always been more than a restaurant; it is a sanctuary of the senses. Whether you are there for the porcelain, the parkland, or that legendary Michelin-starred plate, 2026 is the year to visit and witness a legacy in full bloom. Here’s to forty years of the Dudognon touch—and to the next forty yet to come. So what about last night's memorable feast prepared by both Gilles and Mathieu Guilbert... Here's the menu below - it was all 1000 percent first class but the pigeon ballotine really did pull olut all the stops. A superb dish - and a newly invented one, we were told. Pigeon ballotine A four-handed Menu Pigeon Ballotine Grilled Green Asparagus Stew, Foie Gras, Dill Peas, Black Lemon and Peanut Sauce Haddock Risotto, Thick Langoustine Carpaccio Parmesan Emulsion Delicately poached Turbot, Rigadeaux and from my native Retz Fish stock and Cardamom Lamb Loin Wrapped in Swiss Chard Leaves, Confit of Pork Belly with Tapenade, Mint-Infused Broad Bean Mousse, Garlic and Rosemary The Soufflé of La Maison du Fromage Coconut Mousse and Praline, Lime Crème Brûlée, Delicate Falernum Sorbet Turbot with cockles

Withypool Common near where Hope Bourne used to live I’ve just listened to a remarkable two-person play on BBC Radio 4 all about Hope Bourne – the now relatively famous Exmoor writer and painter. It was excellent. First class. Beautifully written and acted. The woman playing Hope had her voice off to perfection – it could have been her sister. Not that she had one. And it set me thinking… ✍️ When Hope Bourne Refused an Interview A book by Hope Bourne lies open on my desk. Inside is a note written in September 1988 to my journalist father, Peter Hesp, which reads: “You ask about a possible interview – the answer, sadly, must be no…” I won’t go into her reasons for refusing – they were deeply personal and related to her health. But she did soften her stance slightly, enclosing her newly installed telephone number. Ex-directory, of course. She added that my father would be welcome to visit her informally – not as a journalist, but as a friend – if he fancied the journey to her remote corner of Exmoor, where she lived in a tiny, half-derelict caravan. 🌧️ A Call That Changed Everything Which is why what happened two years later was so extraordinary. Out of the blue, both my father and I received a call from Hope herself. This time she wasn’t reluctant – she was insistent. Urgent, even. She wanted to speak out. She was furious with the government of the day – and particularly with Prime Minister Margaret Thatcher. She felt she could no longer remain silent. So we headed for the hills above Withypool. It was one of those proper  Exmoor days – wind howling, rain slashing sideways across the moor. (For an overview of our special Exmoor Walks on this website click here ) 🚗 Waiting in the Storm on Exmoor We sat in my father’s tiny Mini Metro, the car rocking in the gale, waiting. I had commissions from The Guardian  and BBC radio. Whatever happened next would need to be turned into something publishable. And then, through the sheets of rain… 🧥 “A Jaunty Bundle of Anoraks” Here’s an extract from my Guardian  piece, published Friday, February 16, 1990: “Eventually what came out of the swirling torrents was a jaunty bundle of anoraks and scarves. After a great unravelling of these many outer layers, we at last met Miss Hope Bourne. She took the front passenger seat and, holding the other journalist’s hand, she turned to me: ‘Yes, I am a political creature and that is why I have decided to speak out. And yet for 30 years I have lived in these hills, no better than an animal.’” Hope Bourne shot straight from the hip – and at that moment, all her guns (she was, incidentally, a fine shot) were aimed firmly at Margaret Thatcher. “It takes a woman to see the cruel, wicked misuse of powers which is undoubtedly taking us toward a totalitarian state,” she said quietly. “I have voted Tory all my life, but now I am lost… Yes, I hate that bloody woman… Now I hate her because of her cruelty.” 🏕️ Life in a Caravan on Exmoor When it came to material wealth, Hope Bourne lived far removed from the stockbroker belt. Her “stock” was her neighbour’s cattle, which she tended in exchange for ground rent on her 12-foot caravan, perched high in a remote coombe. The caravan itself was so dilapidated that a tarpaulin was pegged over the entire structure to keep out the weather. We had to meet her at the bottom of the valley. My father had visited years earlier and remembered that there was only room for one person inside. To read about a walk around the area where Hope Bourne s ued to live click here... 🦌 Survival, Self-Reliance and a Rifle Hope lived without electricity, running water, or modern comforts. Her one practical luxury? A high-velocity rifle. “There are plenty of rabbits and the occasional hare… I’ve always been able to butcher my own meat. The things I have managed to teach myself, I have always done well. Shooting is one of them.” She was clear-eyed about her lifestyle: “Don’t think I’m just an oddball who likes living far away from civilisation. As I am poor, it has been a matter of necessity.” And yet, there was resilience – even pride. 💪 Toughness Forged on the Moor Her stories bordered on the unbelievable: “Once I broke my knee in that hollow down there. I had to crawl over two fields to get home. I made myself a splint and hobbled about for months… No, I didn’t go to a doctor.” In 30 years, she had visited a doctor just once – after midges stung her eyes and temporarily blinded her. 🎩 From Victorian Upbringing to Wild Exmoor Life This rugged existence stood in stark contrast to her earlier life. Hope had been brought up in a genteel, almost Victorian household by her widowed schoolteacher mother. But when her mother died, so too did her financial security. She sold the family home in Devon and, with only a few hundred pounds, retreated into the wilds of Exmoor. 🌟 A Life That Might Have Been As a young woman, Hope had dreamed of influence and impact: “I felt the urge to be a great speaker… one of those people who make history.” Instead, illness and circumstance intervened. She left school at 14, suffered from asthma, and lived a restricted life at home until her mother’s death. But then came a turning point: “I made a list of all the things I had been told not to do… then I did every one of them.” And with that, she remade herself. “In fact… you could now describe me as being quite robust.” 📚 Why Hope Bourne Still Matters Today Listening to that BBC Radio 4 play reminded me just how extraordinary Hope Bourne really was. Not just a writer. Not just an artist. But a fiercely independent spirit who carved out a life on her own uncompromising terms in one of England’s wildest landscapes. And perhaps that’s why she still resonates today – in an age that rarely produces such characters. Who was Hope Bourne? She was one of Exmoor’s most distinctive writers and artists, known for living alone on the moor and documenting its wildlife and landscape. A rainbow on Withypool Common

Best Alloy Wheels for Long Road Trips Across Uk The process of planning a long road trip throughout the UK creates an exciting experience which lets travellers explore the Scottish Highlands and drive along the Jurassic Coast and use the major motorways that connect the country's primary urban centres. Drivers who want to maximise their fuel efficiency and driving comfort should pay attention to how the selection of alloy wheels affects performance. It provides two key benefits because they improve your vehicle's visual appeal, and they help enhance its performance and safety features and driving experience. Why Choosing the Right Wheels Matters When preparing your car for extended journeys, investing in quality wheels can make a noticeable difference. Transform the look of your vehicle with premium alloy wheels from Tyre Safety Centre — expertly designed to combine sleek style, lasting durability, and superior performance. The right set ensures better heat dissipation during long drives and improved handling on varied road conditions, which is especially valuable when travelling across the diverse terrains found throughout the UK. Durability for UK Road Conditions Durability is a major factor to be considered. During a long journey by car, you can expect to use motorways, country roads which may be a little bumpy, and maybe even potholes. High-quality alloy wheels are usually lighter than steel alternatives, which means that less pressure is put on your suspension system, and at the same time, it results in better fuel efficiency. That is why they are perfect for drivers who make a hundred miles in one trip. What is more, their capability to resist rust is one more reason why they are a great choice given the UK's changeable weather conditions, from wet roads and coastal salt. Improved Comfort and Handling Another important factor is comfort and handling. A well-made set of alloy wheels can greatly improve your vehicle’s grip and stability, especially when driving on winding roads in places like Wales or the Lake District. Better traction leads to more control during sudden braking or in bad weather, making your journey safer and more enjoyable. For anyone planning long trips, this added reliability offers valuable peace of mind. Style and Aesthetic Appeal Style matters too, especially to drivers who care a lot about how their vehicle looks. On road trips, you’ll spot plenty of chances to take great photos, and stylish alloy wheels can make your car look even better. With today’s designs, you get the look you want and the engineering it needs, so performance never has to take a back seat. No matter if you want something sporty or more polished, you’ll find choices that match your style. Maintenance Tips for Long Trips Lastly, don't forget about maintenance. Clean and inspect your alloy wheels before heading out. Conducting regular inspections throughout your journey can help avoid little issues evolving into larger problems. Maintaining them properly not only prolongs their life but also gives you a smooth performance every time on the way. Conclusion Choosing the right alloy wheels is important when planning a long road trip across the UK. They improve handling and durability, boost style, and can even help efficiency—benefits that make your trip better overall. Choosing the right set helps ensure the journey is comfortable, safe, and memorable for the right reasons. e right set helps ensure the journey is comfortable, safe, and memorable for the right reasons.

Many of you have recently joined me on the coastal trails of the West Country with the launch of my new series, The Cornish Snapper . But while Lammoran and Hamilton are busy uncovering the grit and secrets of the modern shoreline, I have been back at the "sharp end" of the editing desk with a very different kind of story. I am thrilled to announce that a newly reimagined and significantly tightened edition of my novel, The Lemon Tree Forest , is now live. A Journey Reimagined As a journalist, I’ve spent over 50 years learning that sometimes the best way to tell a story is to know exactly what to leave out. When I first released The Lemon Tree Forest , it was a sprawling, lyrical epic. And it was very much written from the heart because all of the locations concerned - and many of the people who inspired the characters in the novel - were real. I knew them. However, I felt the "clash" between the descriptive beauty of the landscapes and the high-octane tension of the thriller elements needed resolving. I have now completed a massive edit, cutting nearly 40,000 words from the original manuscript. The result is what I call the "Director’s Cut"—a version that is leaner, faster, and far more urgent. From the Wilds of Exmoor to the Peaks of Switzerland The heart of the story remains: a sweeping adventure of love, fear, and loyalty. It begins in the lesser known hills of Exmoor, in a crumbling manor house where Sebastian seeks a quiet life of rebuilding. But the past rarely arrives gently. What follows is a sun-drenched romance on a Greek island and a reckless affair that eventually forces a desperate, heart-pounding escape across the mountains of Switzerland. At the centre of it all is Sasha—beautiful, complicated, and hunted by a powerful family who will stop at nothing to control her. Why This Version? In this new edition, the romance feels more immediate and the danger closer. By trimming the "ballast," the transitions between the lyrical atmosphere of the forest and the pulse-pounding action of the escape are now seamless. Whether you are a fan of international suspense or deep, atmospheric romance, this version has been crafted to keep you turning the pages. How to Read the New Edition I wanted to make this new version as accessible as possible for my digital readers. It is currently available as a Kindle ebook for just £1.99 — a perfect entry point for those who haven't yet ventured into the forest, or a fresh experience for those who remember the original. Click here to find The Lemon Tree Forest on Amazon Thank you for your continued support as I navigate this busy season of two very different launches. Whether you are following the investigative trail with the Snapper  or escaping into the mountains with Sebastian and Sasha, I hope you enjoy the journey. Author’s Note:  If you enjoy the book, please consider leaving a brief review on Amazon. In the world of digital publishing, those small stars make a world of difference in helping new readers find the "Forest." An imagined scene from The Lemon Tree Forest

If there’s one thing most of us will feel in desperate need of in midwinter, it is a little sunshine.  You can jump on an airliner and get it. In a centrally heated conservatory you can feel it or you can dream about it under a sun-bed - but generally speaking the rays still beam down upon a world that is chilly and grey. You can, however, have a go at making your own. By which I mean prepare some kind of food that somehow captures the essence of sunshine.  There are foods and dishes all around the hotter parts of the world which seem to encapsulate the fact that they’ve been grown or prepared with the help of masses of sunlight. Not long ago I was pondering the subject of sunshine food in the bright warm islands of the Canaries where some things served at table seem to screech sunshine up at you.  Anyone who has holidayed down there half way to the Equator will know that most savour meals are accompanied by two or sometimes three small pots containing brightly coloured substances. In our stumbling culinary English we might describe them as dips, or sauces, or even salsas - but the real name for these intensely flavoured little accompaniments is mojo - pronounced mo-ho.  And they really do add a splash of sunshine to just about everything imaginable, from dry bread to hearty stews, from Canarian salted new potatoes to grilled octopus - which happens to be my own favourite way of consuming these liquid flavour bombs.   Mojo come in all manner of colours from orange to fiery red, or green to porcelain white, depending on their ingredients. Basically all are heavily flavoured with garlic - some are mild and creamy while others are spicy, or picón as it’s known locally.  Most will contain quite a lot of olive oil - some vinegar, or orange, lemon or lime juice - local sea salt, red pepper, generous amounts of cumin, almonds, thyme, oregano, coriander along with several other spices.  Canarian islanders - being from the busiest corner of the heaving Atlantic Ocean - emigrated all over the world down the centuries and took their mojos with them to places like Cuba, Puerto Rico, and Venezuela, other parts of Latin America and many of the non-Hispanic Caribbean islands. Canarian mojos didn’t just stay in the islands—they made their way to Cuba, where their bright, zesty flavours influenced local cuisine. In Havana, you can enjoy bold dishes like ropa vieja , tostones , and moros y cristianos , and no trip is complete without sampling the world-famous Cuban cigars , whether at a tobacco farm in Viñales or a shop in the city, ideally paired with a sip of rum or cafecito. Beyond food, the island’s vibrant streets, live music, and salsa rhythms bring Cuban culture to life, making every meal and moment feel like a taste of sunshine. But back at home in the islands most Canarian families have their own recipe for mojo - and let me say right away that the fresh homemade offerings are vastly superior to the jarred, industrially-made, versions served in many of the tourist restaurants. I was on a walking tour of Lanzarote with my friends from Ramblers Worldwide Holidays, and the beauty of this was the fact that we reached remote villages high in the hills or along lonely coasts, well away from the main visitor centres. The little restaurants and bars where we stopped for late lunches or tapas were more likely to bring us homemade dishes accompanied by mamma’s or granny’s favourite award-winning mojos.  The saucy offerings can be hugely variable in flavour, spiciness and texture. For example, there is a creamy garlicky almond mojo which is often used to accompany roasted meat. Canarian saffron is another favourite ingredient - apparently mojos made with it are often served alongside fried cheese. The wonderful thing is that, unlike so many holiday sunshine foods which do not travel well to freezing old Blighty, mojos made here can taste just as good as those found in the remote mountain restaurants and bars of Lanzarote. What you need are fresh good quality ingredients and one of those small food processors which are much better for making tiny amounts of liquid mixes than their big brothers where you end up having to make a minimum of half a pint. Having said that, many of the oil and vinegar based mojos will last in jars kept in the fridge for weeks or even months.  The secret is to experiment around the basic theme, adding whatever flavourings take your fancy. Even the most basic of mojos will add real life and sunshine to end of British winter stodgy stews and roasts that somehow require a kick up their lacklustre backsides. My stolid beef casserole this week suddenly became so exciting I thought it capable of leaping off the plate to dance the South American tango…  Basic Red Mojo  Bulb of best garlic you can find, 1 red chilli, 1 teaspoon of cumin freshly ground, 1 teaspoon of paprika, 4 tablespoons of vinegar, 10 tablespoons of olive oil, sea salt to taste. Peel the garlic cloves and take out any green cores which you find developing at this time of year. Put all the ingredients into the mini-food-processor and whizz into a thick paste. This can be diluted with a splash of water - or better still the juice of an orange or a couple of tangerines.  Basic Green Mojo  1 green peppers, small bunch of fresh coriander or parsley, 4 cloves of garlic, 2 teaspoons sea salt, 2 tablespoons white wine vinegar, 4 tablespoons olive oil 1 teaspoon cumin, 1 slice of white bread. Again, simply bung the lot into the mini-food-processor and whizz for 30 seconds. I add blanched ground almonds and lime juice if I am going to serve this mojo with fish. Another variation on the green theme mojo verde uses avocado - a mix which I think goes very well with salty traditional British cheeses like a strong cheddar.

Discover Cornwall Beyond the Beaches: A Hidden Gem Walk Through the Luxulyan Valley Cornwall may be famed for its sun-drenched beaches and dramatic coastlines, but inland lies a different kind of beauty—one that's mysterious, lush, and steeped in history. If you’re seeking a truly immersive walking experience in Cornwall away from the crowds, the Luxulyan Valley walk delivers peace, heritage, and natural splendour in equal measure. The Luxulyan Valley Walk: A Hidden Treasure in Inland Cornwall A Lesser-Known Walking Route with Rich Rewards Forget the main roads and seaside rush—head inland from Par, just off the A390, and you’ll find Ponts Mill , the starting point of an unforgettable circular hike through the Luxulyan Valley and along the Saint's Way . This area is a designated World Heritage Site and one of Cornwall’s best kept secrets . Walk Overview: Facts at a Glance Route: Ponts Mill → Treffry Viaduct → Luxulyan Village → Saint's Way via Prideaux Woods → St Blazey → Ponts Mill Distance: Approx. 7 miles (11.3 km) Trail Conditions: Sometimes muddy; moderate difficulty Recommended Map: Ordnance Survey Explorer 107 Type: Circular walk Highlights: Treffry Viaduct, industrial heritage, woodland trails, hill fort, distant views of the Cornish Alps Through the Ancient Woods of the Luxulyan Valley Begin your walk near the quaintly named “Porcupine” and cross into the Luxulyan Valley —a wooded ravine full of birdsong and beauty, especially during autumn when the leaves turn to gold. The trail runs northwest through ancient oak and beech woods, passing remnants of Cornwall’s industrial past. Treffry Viaduct: Cornwall’s Industrial Icon A key highlight is the Treffry Viaduct —a breathtaking granite structure towering 89 feet high and stretching 650 feet in length. Built between 1839 and 1842 by Joseph Treffry , this historic feat of engineering was designed to carry both water and horse-drawn tramways to power local mines and quarries. The viaduct’s 10 grand arches and massive granite base make it one of Cornwall’s most important industrial monuments. You can even walk across the top of it—though that requires a short detour up the valley sides. Discover the Village of Luxulyan After following the trail under the viaduct, you’ll emerge from the trees and head up a quiet country lane to reach the charming village of Luxulyan . The village lends its name to luxulyanite , a rare Cornish granite. Don't miss the ancient church dedicated to Saints Ciricius and Julitta , possibly built from this very stone. From here, pick up the Saint’s Way , a historic pilgrim path that leads south through open countryside with sweeping views of the Cornish Alps —the strange white peaks formed from china clay mining spoil. Prideaux Woods and the Hill Fort Above Warren Wood The route skirts the impressive Prideaux Estate and enters Prideaux Woods , offering glimpses of manicured landscapes reminiscent of the English shires—an unexpected and graceful contrast to rugged moorland or coast. Further along, the path passes an ancient hill fort above Warren Wood , another reminder of the region’s long and layered history. Final Stretch: Returning to Ponts Mill After descending into St Blazey, there's a short paved section along the Tywardreath Highway , followed by a final quiet lane leading back to Ponts Mill, where your journey began. While this specific loop offers plenty, there are countless variations of this walk, each revealing a different facet of this magical valley. Practical Tips and Suggestions Footwear: Sturdy walking boots recommended, especially after rain Best Season: Autumn for colour, spring for wildflowers Facilities: Limited – bring water and snacks Alternative Routes: Several – the Friends of Luxulyan Valley website offers great suggestions: www.luxulyanvalley.co.uk If you’ve discovered a better variation of the walk or want to share your own experience, feel free to email me at walks@martinhesp.co.uk

I first did this walk more than 25 years ago and took the following photos on a very early form of digital camera—which is why the quality of some images is not so good - but, believe me, the views around this hike are absolutely superb. The walk is based in the attractive environs of the strangely named village of Mawnan Smith, and fits well with Hesp's patent recipe for perfect walking: i.e. you can't beat pottering around a peninsula. The peninsula in question is a ragged affair situated at the watery junction where Falmouth Bay meets the mouth of the Helford River. Starting the Helford Passage Coastal Path Walk I was recently at the excellent Ferry Boat Inn at Helford Passage for a dose of refreshment, and found myself reluctant to leave the waterside - it was all a-twinkle, as if the very heavens had plunged in for a dip. Far too cold, of course, for humans to immerse themselves in the sea - but certainly warm enough for us to bathe ourselves in the intense sunlight. Planning the Rosemullion Head Walk with Ordnance Survey Map Reaching for Ordnance Survey Explorer Map 103, I soon planned a route along the coast - a sort of lasso-shaped walk out along Mawnan's twin-horned peninsula. It's all very simple - I merely followed the coast path east out of the Passage and kept going until I passed Rosemullion Head. Then it was up over the hill, down past the church, and back to Helford's shore again. Discovering Polgwidden Cove and WWII History The first thing the path encounters east of our start point, is the strange but beautiful Polgwidden Cove. Strange because there are signs that once mankind was very busy here - which he was: 7,500 American troops embarked for the Normandy Invasion from this cove. They were off to take Omaha Beach, and it was no joyride - within the first three hours of fighting they lost a staggering 83 percent of the fighting force in casualties. There's a memorial to these brave men just inside Trebah Gardens, which run down a small coombe to the beach. This magical wonderland is to be the subject of a special article elsewhere on this site. Suffice to say that Trebah is open to the public daily, for a well-worthwhile entry fee. Passing Glendurgan Gardens and Enjoying the Helford Estuary Views Onwards and alongwards - past another great garden, this time National Trust-owned Glendurgan - also well worth the entry fee. We however, continue along the best value thing in Britain - the absolutely free coast path. It rounds Grebe Rock to enter the little bay at Porth Saxon. It's all very lovely indeed - in fact I can safely say there is no other stretch of the coastline like it. There's something Mediterranean about this littoral - which is not surprising really, given its sheltered south-facing aspect. Both gardens mentioned have won fame for growing plants it would be impossible to nurture elsewhere in these cold and windy isles. Exploring Toll Point and Helford River Vistas Beyond the tiny bay of Porthallack we climb into the fields and ascend around Toll Point. This is where you get the very best views of the Helford River - you can see up the estuary to where the Polwheveral Creek joins the main stream at Groyne Point. If you go on a sunny summer's day all this will be packed with people messing about in boats, but the day we were there not one maritime soul was taking advantage of the stiff breeze. Walking the Wild Cornish Cliffs Towards Mawnan Church Now, suddenly, we are away from the soft, Cote d'Azur style coastline of the river, and into proper Cornish wilderness. Rough cliffs and furzy downs rise up above Mawnan Shear and Parson's Beach as we make our way north-east towards the church. Legends and History Around St Maunanus Church Real 'Daphne Du Maurier Country' this - a place of moonlit trysts, smugglers and privateers. The old church dedicated to St Maunanus stands just inland of the steep, sea-facing woods - and the whole locale has an altogether mysterious air. And it's not all fantasy - there really were swashbuckling deeds of derring-do in these parts. Take, for instance, the local legend, always referred to as The Fine and Brave. The tale occurred during the French Wars of the 18th century when the women of Mawnan Smith took to their heels upon hearing that an invasion force had arrived down in one of the coves. Not to run away - but to meet the French with all the force they could muster. Down the lane they went, pitchforks in hand - their petticoats flying in the wind. Red petticoats, as it happened - which was fortunate because the French mistook the women for a troop of Redcoat soldiers, and scarpered as fast as their sails would take them. Following the Coastal Path to Rosemullion Head The coast path weaves through the wood by the church to issue out onto the cliffs above Shag Rock. One day I'm going to count all the Shag Rocks off Cornwall - I bet there are hundreds - anyway, we're heading north-east again along a particularly rough bit of coast that eventually takes us to Rosemullion Head - a handsome little headland which affords superb views of Falmouth Bay and the distant mouth of the River Fal. Returning Inland via Gatamala Cove and Mawnan Church Fortunately for prosperity, much of the land covered by this walk (including Rosemullion Head) is owned by the National Trust. A few hundred yards west we come to a place called Gatamala Cove and inland of this there's a footpath cutting through Trust land, which we follow to the top of the hill, where we reach the road. It's not busy with traffic, or at least it wasn't when I was there, which is just as well because we must turn left to walk down the road - back to Mawnan Church. Actually, I doubt if it ever gets too busy as the lane doesn't head anywhere but to the church, a few houses and a farm. Enjoying the Wildflower Meadows and Returning to Helford Passage Just to the right of the car-park next to the church, a footpath introduces the walker to a number of meadows that enjoy what must be one of the most sheltered spots in England. I suppose the little valley might get a little blustery in a westerly gale, but the day we were there it was primrose heaven - you could have sunbathed amid the banks of yellow flowers - yet just a stone's throw away you'd have frozen to death. The path eventually meets the shore at the aforementioned Porthallack - so now it's simply a matter of retracing our footsteps west along the coast to Helford Passage. Summary of the Helford River Circular Walk Not the longest, wildest or most adventuresome walk in the West Country - but a fine and beautiful saunter nevertheless. And all within a few miles of one of Cornwall's biggest towns. Fact File Martin stayed at the excellent Budkock Vean Hotel while on his recent trip and there will be a special article about the hotel coming soon. Basic Hike: from Helford Passage east along coast path to eventually reach Rosemullion Head - then inland to Mawnan Church and down a footpath to regain the coast path via which we return to the Passage. Recommended map: Ordnance Survey Explorer 103 - The Lizard. Distance and going: about four-and-a-half miles, easy going.

Discover Cornwall’s Hidden Coastal Gem Just Minutes from Plymouth As the 15th biggest city in England you wouldn’t think Plymouth could boast such a thing as a secret seaside – but the old maritime community knows a thing or two about the sea and, rather cleverly, keeps a beautiful stretch of coast very much to itself. It’s not that secret as most Plymouthians have some kind of relationship with Whitsand Bay – even though it’s across the border in Cornwall, they pop over on the Torpoint Ferry and head for their very own salty backyard. And very lovely it is too. But the great sweep of shoreline that bends west from Rame Head to Looe Island is, for the rest of us, one of the least known bits of the Cornish littoral. Cornwall’s “Forgotten Peninsula” and Its Secluded Coastline I say that because despite its proximity to Plymouth, Cornwall’s extreme south-east corner is often described as the county’s “forgotten peninsula”. That’s partly because it is a bit of a fiddle to get to – most tourists just drive on by once they’ve crossed the Tamar Bridge and don’t think of turning left down the serpentine roads that wiggle and wind in order to avoid massive St Germans Creek and its attendant tributaries. Next comes a high ridge, crowned at one point by the oddly named village of Crafthole – and then there’s the sea. The big, wide, sparkling, blue expanse of sea that is Whitsand Bay. A Coastline of Fortresses, Chalets, and Maritime History Fortresses, old and not so old, are a feature of this coast – though none could fire a shot in anger nowadays. The only bang you’ll hear, apart from the ones resounding from a small arms firing range, is the knock of the auctioneer’s gavel as yet another luxury apartment with sea views goes under the hammer. The same property auctioneer might also sell the occasional chalet that comes onto the market – for this is a coast of chalets . They began to appear along the slopes of Treninnow Cliff between the two world wars and originally were modest little hand-built holiday homes for working-class Plymouthians who couldn’t afford to go further afield. The Unique Charm of Treninnow Cliff Chalets “Who would want to?” That’s what you’d ask if you’d been there on the fresh, sparkling, sunlit day last week when I passed by. Indeed, today these modest home-built “huts” swap hands for in excess of £500,000. Out of my league but worth every penny, I’d say – although this fabulous, scattered community of wooden chalets has been threatened in the past by local authorities wishing to “clean the coast up”. I’ve also heard rumours of ground rents becoming so expensive that some of the older families who’ve held onto their wondrous maritime legacy could be priced out. Which would be a shame. I think the shanty-town feel of this community adds wonderfully to this big empty stretch of coast – indeed it is the nearest thing England has to certain sections of the Californian littoral . If you’re ever in San Francisco, go 30 miles north to Stinson Beach and you’ll see what I mean. Secret Beaches Beyond Portwrinkle and Eglarooze Cliff Anyway, given all this human attention you might be inclined to agree with a Plymouth-born colleague of mine who said: “There aren’t any secret seasides along that bit of coast.” Apart from the fact that this entire bay is unknown to most West Country folk, I know what he means. To an extent. But even beach-loving Plymouthians don’t reach the parts that this Secret Seasides series manages to find. I’ve tried to avoid using the phrase “where gulls go to be lonely” in this series – so in this case will adapt it to “where sheep go to be lonely” – for that is the only land-based mammal you’ll find if you go on west past the Treninnow Cliff chalet community , beyond Crafthole and the tiny harbour hamlet of Portwrinkle , and find your way out along Eglarooze Cliff . The sheep are being used to graze off the steep slopes above the sea-cliffs – and the herbage does need a bit of a seeing-to, for sure. I nearly ruined a perfectly good suit as I clambered down the slopes this week (don’t ask why I was wearing a suit on such an unlikely adventure) – but I did manage to descend to what must be some of the most unvisited beaches within 40 miles of Plymouth. Remote Beaches Under Cargloth Cliffs And there, under Cargloth Cliffs – just inland from a remarkable rock stack called The Brawn , near a place known as Beaks Horn – I lolled for half an hour eating my midday sandwiches on a beach that no one except for kayakers can have visited for years. There are a series of four beaches between Britain Point (just west of Portwrinkle) and the bigger headland at Cargloth and I cannot, in the interests of health and safety, recommend that you visit any of them. But if you do, I will promise you this: in no way will you be able to imagine you are just five miles as the seagull flies from the region’s largest city.