Chablis, the Morvan and Vézelay make a wonderful road-trip combination in rural Burgundy. Martin Hesp goes in search of quiet roads, great wine, forests, lakes, ancient villages and the France he loves.

The real delight of this place is found in the quiet details. It is the soothing sound of the ancient mill leat trickling through the grounds, the architectural precision of the boxwood gardens that resemble a green velvet tapestry in the sunshine, and the cosy interiors that smell faintly of woodsmoke and beeswax. Unlike retreats that sit dreamily tucked away from society, Le Vieux Logis is deeply integrated into the life of Trémolat, a small, living, working community.