Finding these quiet, untamed corners of the island brought back a flood of memories from a trip I took to Cyprus nearly 35 years ago. It was February half-term, and back in the UK, it was cold, grey, and raining. Desperate for a bit of sun and warmth, we booked a last-minute deal to Paphos. But Cyprus has a way of surprising you. On one of our day trips, we found ourselves waist-deep in snow.

What makes halloumi different from every other cheese? A chance encounter in rural Cyprus reveals the secret behind its famous squeak and resistance to melting, leading into an unforgettable journey through mountain villages, wineries, artisan food producers and authentic Cypriot culture.