Polurrian on the Lizard Review: Staying at One of Cornwall's Finest Cliff-Top Hotels
- Martin Hesp
- Aug 17
- 9 min read
We had all endured weeks of dark skies leaking copious amounts of rain - but in our case the weather, and indeed the season, seemed to change in one startling, blinding, beautiful moment.
I was lying on a large, comfortable bed, about to have a snooze after a long day out in Cornwall, and suddenly the hotel room was filled with the brightest sunlight we’d seen since last summer. So bright that my wife was forced to put on her sunglasses. It was that bright, even indoors!
But what made that moment really special was the sudden and unexpected noise. Not the most melodic sound in the world, but one that was wonderfully and hauntingly meaningful. It was the airy screeching of house-martins and swallows! Suddenly, there they were, scores of them circling the eaves of the grand Polurrian Hotel, perched high on the Lizard’s west coast.
I cannot remember a half hour like it. I have never before witnessed the changing of the seasons in such an instant and condensed form. Weeks of rain suddenly cast away by the intensity of the sunshine. Months of cold and storms brushed away by the aerial dance magnificent flying creatures which had flown all the way from the tropics!
Why stay at the Polurrian on the Lizard?
Perched high on the cliffs just outside Mullion, with sweeping views across Mount's Bay towards the open Atlantic, the Polurrian occupies one of those glorious positions that hotel designers can never create because nature has already done the hard work for them. You come here as much for the location as the hotel itself. The South West Coast Path passes almost beneath the gardens, a secluded little cove lies just below the cliffs, and within a few minutes' drive you can be standing at Lizard Point, gazing out from the southernmost tip of mainland Britain.
If you'd like to experience the Polurrian for yourself, click below to check the latest prices and availability. There's no obligation to book, but it's always worth comparing dates, as room rates can vary throughout the year.
Yet the Polurrian is much more than somewhere to rest your head after a day exploring Cornwall. It is one of those increasingly rare hotels that still feels spacious. There are broad lawns looking out to sea, comfortable lounges where you can happily while away an afternoon with a coffee or something stronger, indoor and outdoor swimming pools, tennis courts and enough corners in which simply to sit and admire the view. Whether you're a couple looking for a relaxing short break, walkers tackling the coast path or a family determined to make the most of Cornwall's beaches, it somehow manages to cater for everyone without ever feeling crowded.
Dogs are welcome too
Anyone who enjoys walking the Cornish coast knows that holidays are often better with a dog trotting along in front, nose to the ground and tail wagging furiously at every new discovery. The Polurrian clearly understands that. Well-behaved dogs are genuinely welcome here and aren't simply tolerated. The hotel provides bowls, blankets and treats, and the staff are happy to point owners towards some of the best local walks. With miles of South West Coast Path passing virtually outside the front door, plus beaches and open countryside all around, it would be difficult to imagine a better base for a dog-friendly holiday in Cornwall. There is a modest nightly charge for canine guests, but for many owners it is a small price to pay for not having to leave a much-loved companion behind.
If you are interested in this hotel take a look at our review of the Hotel Meudon, also in South Cornwall
Food and dining
A hotel can have the finest views in Britain, but if the food disappoints it somehow takes the shine off the whole stay. Fortunately, that isn't the case here. During our visit we found the cooking to be consistently good, served without fuss by friendly staff who seemed genuinely keen for everyone to enjoy themselves. Since then the Polurrian has developed its menus even further, making the most of Cornwall's outstanding produce. Fresh seafood, locally reared meat, seasonal vegetables and excellent Cornish dairy products all feature strongly, while there are plenty of vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free choices too. Whether you choose a leisurely breakfast before heading out to the cliffs, a relaxed lunch in the Vista Lounge or dinner in the restaurant as the sun sinks into the Atlantic, the emphasis is firmly on good local ingredients rather than unnecessary frills. And somehow everything tastes just that little bit better when accompanied by one of the finest sea views in Cornwall.
The Lizard is the Southern Most Point
It marked the very moment they’d returned to these shores after overwintering in Africa. We’d not spotted a single one of these excited, soaring, darting birds so far this year. Certainly not up in our Exmoor homeland… But down there, just a couple of miles from England’s most southerly point, they suddenly appeared en-masse. Entire squadrons of them. Screaming and weaving and soaring this way and that. The British mainland’s most southerly point at the Lizard is about 140 miles north of the nearest bit of the French coast - I don’t know if these tiny birds simply belt straight across but imagine it must be the case given that they wing-it all the way from Africa.
The hotel's fascinating history
The hotel has quite a story. It has played host to all manner of visitors, including Guglielmo Marconi, Winston Churchill and even Hollywood’s Clark Gable. Marconi stayed there in 1901 while sending the first ever transatlantic radio messages from nearby Poldhu Cove. Eight years after his stay, a fire devastated the original building, destroying everything but the garden terraces. A new hotel was built and the Polurrian became a hive of activity once again. During the Second World War, the place was turned into an officers’ mess for nearby RAF Predannack and, in 1953, the heart-throb Gable stayed there with co-star Gene Tierney while filming the romantic thriller, Never Let Me Go. You can see the original trailer on YouTube and there’s also a grainy clip showing an extraordinary black and white car chase through the cobbled streets of Mevagissey.
Exploring the Lizard from the hotel
We used it as a base to explore the Lizard peninsula, but there were plenty of nearby coastal walks to be enjoyed straight from the front door while the sun shone, including the one to lovely Poldhu Cove where there is a wonderful beach cafe. More about those establishments in a moment…
Although it was sunny, there was a brisk chill wind blowing down from the north. Which puts the Lizard into a league of its own - because as the mainland’s most southerly zone it tends to be protected from anything that’s coming down from the Arctic. I’d say that during the afternoon we spent at south-facing Kennack Sands just east of Lizard Point, we were the warmest and most protected enjoyers of the great outdoors anywhere in Britain.
I have seen this wonderful beach packed in high summer, but on this sunny April afternoon we were just about the only people there. While I pottered around studying the rock-pools on the far side of the steep little knoll which cuts Kennack Sands in two, my companions enjoyed cups of tea at the excellent little beachside cafe. There’s not one but two of these diminutive catering establishments beside this beautiful but out-of-the-way beach, and I salute the fact that they exist.
Because I am beginning to think that beach cafes are one of the jewels in Britain’s crown.
Tiny, little-talked about jewels, maybe - but they are upping their game around the coasts and offering better and better food and drink as times goes by.
Indeed, we enjoyed an excellent and good value classic cream tea in one of the little cliffside huts right down on Lizard Point. From 100 feet above the shore we could sea giant waves clashing with one another as they arrived from either side of the Lizard’s west and east coasts. As the ferocious wind blew and shook the cafe windows in that bright sunshine, we could watch as the famous local choughs wheeled acrobatically on the updrafts. I got a few odd looks from the young and charming waiting staff for putting cream on my scones first, then jam - and was indeed informed this was not the Cornish way - but I am a Somerset boy, and must do what my mum told me.
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Looking for other places to stay?
While I'd happily recommend the Polurrian, every traveller is different. If you're looking for a cosy B&B, a family hotel, a seaside cottage or somewhere with a different budget, you'll find plenty of excellent accommodation around Mullion and the beautiful Lizard Peninsula.
Anyway, it was lovely sitting there down at the bottom end of England in that gale. Exhilarating even. I’ve heard the classic West Country cream tea described in many way before, but never exhilarating…
During our stay on the Lizard, we also visited wonderful Porthleven - alas, a fortnight early so that we missed the culinary splendours of the harbour town’s annual food festival (read more here).
But for now, this recent Lizard mini-break was exactly the sort of thing this website seeks to promote. It was by most people’s standards easily affordable, and it was filled with the promise of interesting places to visit and great food to eat. It was, in a nutshell, a very do-able and achievable, adventure. And for me it happened to mark the moment when winter changed into summer.
Is the Polurrian Good Value?
Cornwall has no shortage of fine hotels, but many occupy the sort of price bracket that encourages a sharp intake of breath before you click the "Book Now" button. The Polurrian strikes me as a rather happier compromise. It enjoys one of the finest cliff-top settings in the county, offers facilities that many more expensive hotels would envy and, perhaps most importantly of all, never loses its relaxed and welcoming atmosphere.
No, it isn't the cheapest place to stay on the Lizard, nor should it be. But when you consider the sea views, the comfortable accommodation, the excellent food, the swimming pools, the easy access to the coast path and the sheer amount there is to do without ever getting back into the car, I think it represents excellent value. It is the sort of hotel where you arrive intending to spend most of your time exploring Cornwall, only to find yourself quite happy lingering over breakfast, sitting on the terrace with a coffee or simply watching the Atlantic perform beyond the windows.
Would I stay there again? Without hesitation. In fact, next time I think I'd book an extra night, because the Lizard deserves more than a hurried visit and the Polurrian is just the sort of place that encourages you to slow down and enjoy it.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is the Polurrian Hotel dog friendly?
Yes. Well-behaved dogs are welcome in selected rooms, and the hotel provides dog bowls, blankets and treats. With miles of coast path nearby, it's an excellent base for a walking holiday with your four-legged companion.
Does the Polurrian have a swimming pool?
It has both an indoor swimming pool and a seasonal outdoor pool, together with a hot tub, gym and tennis court, making it a good choice whatever the weather.
Is the Polurrian suitable for families?
Very much so. Families are well catered for with spacious grounds, children's play areas, family rooms, indoor games and easy access to nearby beaches and attractions.
Can you walk from the hotel?
Yes, and that's one of its greatest strengths. The South West Coast Path passes close to the hotel, with wonderful walks to Mullion Cove, Poldhu Cove and Lizard Point, while the hotel's own cove is just a short walk below the cliffs.
Is there parking?
Yes. Complimentary on-site parking is available for guests.
What is the food like?
The emphasis is on fresh Cornish ingredients, including locally landed seafood, regional meat and seasonal produce. Guests can choose between the restaurant, the relaxed Vista Lounge, afternoon teas and the bar, all accompanied by magnificent sea views.
What is there to see nearby?
The hotel is perfectly placed for exploring the Lizard Peninsula. Lizard Point, Kynance Cove, Mullion Cove, Poldhu Cove, Kennack Sands, Porthleven and the Marconi Centre are all within easy reach, making it an excellent base for discovering one of Cornwall's most beautiful corners.Explore more of the Lizard Peninsula
If you're planning a few days in this beautiful corner of Cornwall, you may also enjoy:
Lizard Point
Kynance Cove
Poldhu Cove
Kennack Sands
Porthleven
Mullion Cove
South West Coast Path
