Why Visit Dartmouth? There is something special about Dartmouth. I have no particular reason for saying it - no axe to grind either way, no friends or family living there, no commercial interests, not even any special memories such as the happy beginning of a long-lost love affair - but say it I do, and I’ve been repeating it for years… A quarter of a century ago I wrote a newspaper series about all the harbour-towns dotted around the South West peninsula, and back then this is how I started an article about this most regal of havens… “Dartmouth could be described as the Queen of West Country ports. Maybe it’s something to do with the Naval College which overlooks the town with an air of imperial majesty. Or perhaps it’s something to do with the classy shops that line Dartmouth’s picturesque streets. Or it could be some subliminal belief that any village called Kingswear, which lies opposite the river, should have its queen. Then there is the River Dart itself that flows so serenely between the twin castles at its mouth. Upstream, the woods are like ermine and the water is deep azure.” See more about our Devon articles here And I am happy to repeat the words here. Happy indeed to wax lyrical about Dartmouth once again, because last week I enjoyed a very pleasant couple of days staying right in the very heart of the waterside town. Staying at the Royal Castle Hotel in Dartmouth Given all I’ve said, you can imagine how pleased I was to receive an invitation to sample a famous inn which adorns the very crown of this Queen of West Country ports. St Austell Brewery have just reopened the Royal Castle, one of Dartmouth’s most recognisable buildings, following an extensive nine-month refurbishment. And I can report that this classic old inn, dating back to the 17th century and sitting right there on the side of the town’s inner harbour, has been most tastefully and thoughtfully restored. A St Austell spokesman told me: “We really did take a lot of care to honour its heritage while introducing a fresh, contemporary feel.” They really have done just that. It would have been so easy to lose the charm of an ancient building like this, with its low ceilings and wonky floors, but the brewery has managed to retain the feeling of times past without making the place feel in the least bit corporate or “on-brand”. And they’ve done it while installing the very latest in modern-day comfort. “All 24 bedrooms – many with views over the Dart Estuary – have been completely reimagined, drawing inspiration from the coastal landscape,” said the brewery representative who invited me to stay at the Royal Castle. “Expect soft, sandy pinks, oceanic greens and earthy reds, alongside historic artworks and prints by local artist Kim Carlow. Timber floors, original windows and wood panelling have been carefully preserved and repurposed.” I don’t often resort to quoting company blurb in these articles, but you’ve got to hand it to the team who oversaw this year’s giant refurbishment and also the staff who service the place now. First class, on every level, I’d say. Winter in Dartmouth: A Cosy Harbour Escape Why am I so enthusiastic? Well, as I say, we were there last week when the weather was far from clement, but the heavy rain did not cast a cloud over our stay. As a pair of country bumpkins who live way out in the sticks, my wife and I loved being right there in the heart of town watching as the Christmas lights were being put up around the harbour-side and generally soaking up the friendly, bustling atmosphere that pervades over central Dartmouth. One afternoon we simply lounged in our room’s two comfy leather armchairs, gazing out of the window to watch the town go by. Buses and boats buzzed hither and thither just a few metres away, and somehow being tucked away in the snug warm room felt exceedingly cosy. And, kind of, celebratory. I’m not one of those Christmas junkies desperate to grab every early nuance of the coming holidays, but I can think of few places where I’d be so happy on a dark wet late-November afternoon. It was Christmassy, and our stay was as joyous as it was cosy and snug. Dining at the Royal Castle: Local Flavours at Their Best After a brisk walk out to admire the scenic wonders on offer at the mouth of the river, we enjoyed finding one of Royal Castle’s many nooks so we could enjoy a fireside drink down in the Ketch Bar. An hour or two after that, we dined upstairs in the Sloop restaurant where Head Chef Iain Aldous’ new menu showcases the best of the South West. Signature dishes include pan-roasted pigeon breast, steamed cider mussels, and a rich mushroom bourguignon pie – plus a daily catch, landed nearby. One evening I enjoyed a whole plaice fresh off the grill, the next I went for simple fish and chips which were first class. What can I say? I can only repeat that modern-day question: what’s not to like? There is something very special indeed about staying in a top-class historic inn situated right in the heart of somewhere that itself is a very special place. And the Royal Castle at Dartmouth fits that bill very well indeed. To find out more visit https://royalcastle.co.uk/ Dartmouth History & Heritage Dartmouth Wasn’t Always a Special Place Funny to think Dartmouth was once a squalid little place on the banks of a few muddy creeks. Much of the waterside area has been reclaimed over the past 500 years - many of those famously smart streets were built on marshlands. At Dartmouth Museum you can see exhibits that prove the point. The maps of yesteryear show that the town was once an altogether different shape. Reclamation on a large scale started in 1585 when The Butterwalk and its accompanying street were not even a twinkle in ye olde architect’s eye - before the 16th century this area was the home of reed buntings and ooze. Once terra-firma was firmly in place the rich merchants of the town started building. The Butterwalk went up between 1635-40 at the behest of Mark Hawkins, a merchant in the Newfoundland trade. You only have to spend a couple of minutes wandering around waterside Dartmouth today to realise that it was (and is, if my observations are anything to go by) a place of great wealth. The merchants became rich thanks to the port’s trade and their grand houses still dominate the centre of town. A local historian once told me: “The people of Dartmouth did to their town what the Dutch did to Holland. Bit by bit they extended the place by filling in creeks and marshes, and then they built on what they had taken from the river.” An extensive example of reclamation is at Coronation Park, just under the Britannia Royal Navy College and adjacent to the Upper Ferry. Where herbaceous borders now rule the roost, boat-builders once plied their trade in a jumble of sheds cluttered around tidal creeks. Dartmouth Museum, by-the-way, is to be found above the elegantly cloistered Butter Walk. A flight of stairs takes you into a splendid suite of rooms which were once part of a Mark Hawkins' apartment. With their oak panelling and ornate ceilings the rooms seem fit for a king, and were, Charles II once stayed here. The museum also boasts a fantastic collection of model sailing ships that includes a sleek Dartmouth built Fruit Schooner called Queen Charlotte. Dartmouth sent a dozen ships to defeat the Spanish Armada. Later the Pilgrim Fathers called in for repairs on their ships and, later still, townsman Thomas Newcomen invented the atmospheric pressure steam engine. Best Walks in Dartmouth Walk Out to Dartmouth Castle On a fine day there’s nothing better than a short walk downstream from the centre of Dartmouth to the actual mouth of the river. Those rich Dartmouth merchants in days of yore knew that if they wanted to have their cake and eat it, all they had to do was plug that narrow entrance to their picturesque port. So they had the castle built in 1481, making sure it had state-of-the-art defences. It was in fact the first in the country to be constructed specifically for artillery and must have been a sort of cannonball’s answer to laser-beams in star-wars. If you look closely around the area you can see how the river mouth was actually a good deal more fortified than is at first apparent - there is still plenty of evidence of other defence works to be found on both sides of the Dart. The stroll out to the castle takes you along the old cobbled quay at Bayard’s Cove to the old fort of that name. Once you enter the empty confines of Bayard Fort, walk over for the last aperture in the old walls and you will spy a hidden footpath which turns to climb a flight of steep steps. This’ll take you up to scenic Southtown Road, which you walk along to join the Warfleet Road, which will, in turn, take you to the picturesque creek of that name. From here it’s a five minute hike up to Dartmouth Castle, which is open to the public if you are interested in learning more about the estuary’s long and fascinating history. The castle and neighbouring St Petrox Church afford wonderful views of the wooded sea-cliffs that stretch away to the east on the Kingswear side of the river. Just beyond there’s a small and extremely pleasant public park known as Sugary Green where south-facing picnic benches and seats allowed us to enjoy the superb views and the warm winter sun for an hour after the rain had stopped. Frequently Asked Questions About Dartmouth and the Royal Castle Hotel Is Dartmouth worth visiting? Absolutely. Dartmouth is widely regarded as one of Devon's most attractive harbour towns, with its colourful waterfront, independent shops, historic streets and stunning setting on the River Dart. It makes an ideal destination for a weekend break or longer holiday. Where is the Royal Castle Hotel in Dartmouth? The Royal Castle Hotel occupies a prime position on Dartmouth's historic waterfront, overlooking the harbour and River Dart. Its central location means that many of the town's shops, restaurants, galleries and attractions are just a short stroll away. What makes the Royal Castle Hotel special? Dating back to the 17th century, the Royal Castle Hotel combines centuries of history with modern comforts following its recent refurbishment. Many rooms enjoy views across the harbour, while the hotel is renowned for its warm hospitality and excellent dining. How many days should you spend in Dartmouth? A two or three-night stay is ideal. This gives visitors enough time to explore the town, take a boat trip on the River Dart, visit Dartmouth Castle, sample local seafood and perhaps venture across the river to Kingswear. Can you walk to Dartmouth Castle? Yes. One of the town's most enjoyable walks follows the scenic South West Coast Path alongside the River Dart to Dartmouth Castle. The walk takes around 30 to 40 minutes and offers beautiful estuary views along the way. What are the best things to do in Dartmouth? Popular attractions include exploring the historic harbour, taking a River Dart cruise, visiting Dartmouth Castle, riding the Dartmouth Steam Railway, browsing independent shops, enjoying waterside cafés and restaurants, and taking the passenger ferry to Kingswear. Is Dartmouth a good destination all year round? Yes. While summer is the busiest season, Dartmouth is equally appealing in spring and autumn, when the surrounding countryside is colourful and visitor numbers are lower. Winter also has its charm, with cosy pubs, festive events and dramatic estuary scenery. Is Dartmouth suitable for a romantic weekend away? Very much so. With its picturesque waterfront, boutique shops, excellent restaurants and leisurely riverside walks, Dartmouth is one of Devon's most romantic destinations for couples seeking a relaxing break. Is parking easy in Dartmouth? Parking in the town centre can be limited during the summer months. Visitors often use one of the main public car parks or the Park & Ride service, both of which provide convenient access to the town centre. When is the best time to visit Dartmouth? Late spring, early summer and early autumn are particularly attractive, offering pleasant weather, beautiful gardens and fewer crowds than the peak holiday season. However, Dartmouth has plenty to offer throughout the year.

A Cornish Hotel Stay Where the Room Is the Attraction There are rooms you pay to stay in and there are reasons why people want or need to temporarily hire a place in which to sleep. Which is an overly simplistic way of describing a vast industry that offers everything from tiny sleeping pods to large luxury suites. If we ignore work-related hotel-stays, then most visits are made by tourists of some sort who have booked a place at some location they want to explore or enjoy. It is not often that the room itself represents a yearned-for destination. Such were my thoughts recently as I lay snug and warm between luxury cotton sheets looking out at giant waves crashing on rocks just a few feet away—and beyond to a famous old granite quay protecting a fleet of fishing boats, a lighthouse and a raging ocean. Storm Watching in Style: A Rare Ocean-View Hotel Room I felt wonderfully safe and snug, despite the fact that the wall-to-ceiling windows of the room were occasionally being lashed by salt spray. This was when the thought occurred to me that there are very few hotel rooms in the world where I’d be happy to simply lie in bed looking at the view for hours on end. Don’t get me wrong. The hotel where I was staying during Storm Bram is situated in one of the most desirable locations anywhere in the UK -I would have been quite happy to get out of bed, put on waterproofs and go striding off into lovely old St Ives. And, indeed, I did just that when the mood eventually overtook me. But why not tarry a while? Why not simply enjoy being in the sort of room that gives you the thrill of the ocean without you having to endure the dreaded horrors of mal-de-mare? Pedn Olva Hotel, St Ives: A Unique Clifftop Stay Who needs to be on a boat when you’ve got St Austell Brewery’s wonderfully refurbished Pedn Olva, perched on the rocks above Porthminster Beach, right next to St Ives? It is one of the few places I know where you can enjoy the excitement of a full-on maritime experience without having to leave terra-firma. Yes, there are other hostelries where you can watch seals bobbing about, but not many. There are other hotel rooms which give you views of fishermen hauling lobster pots—but they are few in number and hardly any are quite as close to the action. For this reason alone I like to stay at Pedn Olva, on the edge of St Ives. Indeed, I have visited on several previous occasions, but having recently enjoyed the delights of St Austell’s excellent Royal Castle at Dartmouth (as described in these pages) I thought it rude not to pay a similar visit to one of the brewery’s premier Cornish establishments which has recently undergone a similar refurbishment. CHECK OUT OUR REVIEW OF 6 GREAT PLACES TO STAY IN WEST CORNWALL View of St Ives from Pedn Olva Indeed, there are three hostelries which have been given the St Austell revamp treatment this year—and Hesp Out West will be visiting the third, the wonderful Wellington at Boscastle, in January. St Austell Brewery’s Refurbishment: Inside the New Look Pedn Olva The Pedn Olva—one of St Austell Brewery’s 45 managed pubs across the South West—now features reconfigured layouts, expansive new terraces and a reimagined interior design, all inspired by the area’s coastal surroundings. At the heart of this establishment—officially described as a pub with rooms—is a new 10-metre bar, crowned by a copper sculpture from local artist Shelley Anderson, which tips a wink to West Cornwall’s industrial past. The reconfigured layout also includes snug areas, a spacious dining room, and enhanced outdoor terraces—including a rooftop deck offering panoramic sea views. A St Austell spokesman told me: “Natural materials, including granite, wood, and copper, have been used throughout, while turquoise tiling and custom carpets evoke the textures and colours of the Cornish coastline. As a venue rooted in a town synonymous with art, the interiors showcase more than 25 pieces of original, commissioned and bespoke artwork, including sculpture and stained glass, many by Cornish artists and sourced from local galleries—along with originals from renowned St Ives painters including William Black and Victor Bramley.” Bedrooms With Sea Views at Pedn Olva All 27 bedrooms have been fully refurbished, each offering sea views and reflecting that fact with their coastal-inspired décor. Food & Drink: Local Seafood and Cornish Classics Food at the Pedn Olva is served throughout the day, from breakfast to dinner, and the new menu features dishes such as grilled half-shell scallops, lobster butter fries, and charred watermelon salad, alongside Cornish classics like fish and chips, cream teas, and daily catch specials. “All our dishes champion the finest local produce, including seafood sourced from long-standing supplier Matthew Stevens, based just ten minutes away.” I was told. Why Pedn Olva Remains One of Cornwall’s Best Coastal Hotels So… yes, I love the Pedn Olva and have done for years. It always was one of my favourite places to stay in Cornwall—quite simply because of what I said at this beginning of this article. Location, location, location… That is one of the most often quoted phrases in the hospitality industry, and this place has it not in bucketfuls, but in an endless series of ocean waves. You don’t even have to get out of bed to enjoy its unique maritime vibe. And I’ll say one other thing about staying at a St Austell Brewery owned establishment. The staff are absolutely superb. They really are friendly and they go the extra mile. That alone makes their properties always worth a second look—and I for one shall be staying at the Pedn Olva again in future. Warmth of hospitality and a view second to none—a formula that cannot really be beaten. Room Rates Rooms start from: £145 per night (bed and breakfast), based on two sharing. Pedn Olva Hotel (St Austell) Brewery – https://www.staustellbrewery.co.uk/hotels/pedn-olva St Ives at Christmas Christmas in St Ives, Cornish festive traditions, things to do in St Ives in December Nowadays Mousehole tends to grab the festive headlines in far west Cornwall, thanks to its now famous harbour lights. And a worthy winner it is too when it comes to who does best at Christmas down in West Penwith. But St Ives comes a very close runner-up for several reasons… The town also pulls out a great many stops when it comes to festive illumination. The place literally glows with Christmas cheer and, just like Mousehole, all the many lights are reflected by the harbour waters, as long as the tide is in. But the town also has a great deal more to offer when it comes to Christmas shopping opportunities and to the much wider variety of watering holes that stay open at this time of year. I was quite happy dining up at the Pedn Olva in a restaurant looking out over the brightly lit nocturnal scene, but could have gone to any of several dozen good eateries. However, there’s another reason I like to visit St Ives in December. Having written a great many newspaper articles about how the greater West Country has celebrated Christmas down the centuries, I began to realise that this once remote fishing village really did go to town when it came to celebrating the midwinter festival. Several old documents I managed to unearth over the years referred to the revelries of St Ives in December. In 1865 a diarist called Robert Hunt penned a work entitled Popular Romances of the West of England; or, The Drolls, Traditions, and Superstitions of Old Cornwall—and in it he noted: “We doubt if there is a spot in 'merrie England' where Christmas receives so hearty a welcome, and is 'made so much of,' as in the old-fashioned 'antient borough of beloved St Ives.’ “The Christmas market is not a mean affair at St Ives; if the butchers cannot boast of many prize oxen or 'South Downs,' they generally manage to make the best of their 'home-raised' and well-fed cattle, and the stalls are 'titivated off' nicely too.” But it was the St Ives Christmas “guise dancing” which brought the town some notoriety. This particular form of jollity used to be enjoyed throughout the 12-days of Christmas. Mr Hunt described it thus… “Guise-dancing has found a last retreat at St Ives. This is the only town in the country where the old Cornish Christmas revelry is kept up with spirit. “Guise-dancing at St Ives is no more nor less than a pantomimic representation or bal-masque on an extensive scale, the performers outnumbering the audience, who in this case take their stand at the corners of the streets, which are but badly lighted with gas, and rendered still more dismal by the closing of the tradesmen's shops after sunset during this season, on account of the noise and uproar occasioned. The town being literally given up to a lawless mob, who go about yelling and hooting in an unearthly manner—a tone between a screech and a howl, so as to render their voices as undistinguishable as their buffoon-looking dresses.” Apparently fancy costumes and the high falsetto voices were all part of the idea that you could go about during the 12-days of Christmas, immune to law-breaking and anarchy, simply because you would not be recognised. The ancient tradition of guise-dancing disappeared from the Cornish port sometime between the two world wars—which I guess may have been a good thing. More sad was the disappearance of the old St Ives custom which saw all the town’s children repairing on Christmas Day to Porthminster Beach where they’d play games and dance. Why the Pedn Olva Keeps Drawing Me Back Some hotels impress you with polished reception desks, expensive artwork or rooms full of gadgets that you never quite work out how to use. The Pedn Olva has something much rarer. It has a view that quietly steals the show. I have stayed in plenty of hotels over the years, in Britain and overseas, but there are only a handful where I can honestly say I have been tempted simply to sit by the window and watch the world go by. At the Pedn Olva you can do exactly that. Fishing boats drift in and out of the harbour, gulls wheel overhead and, depending on the season, the sea can change character several times before breakfast. One moment it is as smooth as polished glass, the next it is flecked with white horses racing in from the Atlantic. Dining at Pedn Olva, St Ives It is this ever-changing backdrop that makes the hotel feel different every time I visit. St Ives itself is one of those places that never loses its charm. Wander down to the harbour with an ice cream, browse the galleries, stop for a coffee or simply watch the tide creep across the golden sands of Porthminster Beach. Then, when your legs begin to tire, it is comforting to know that your hotel is only a short stroll away, waiting on its rocky perch above the sea. I particularly enjoy returning in the quieter months. Summer has its obvious attractions, but there is something magical about St Ives in late autumn or winter. The streets are calmer, the beaches almost empty, and the Atlantic reminds you that this is still one of Britain's great stretches of coastline. Watching a storm roll across the bay from the warmth of the hotel lounge, with a drink close at hand, is an experience that lingers long after you've packed your bags. St Ives harbour, as seen from the Pedn Olva The Pedn Olva has never struck me as a hotel trying too hard to impress. Instead, it simply lets its remarkable setting do much of the talking. Add welcoming staff, comfortable rooms and good food, and you have all the ingredients for a memorable Cornish escape. Perhaps that's why I find myself thinking about it long after I've returned home. Some places fade surprisingly quickly from the memory. The Pedn Olva isn't one of them. Whenever I picture St Ives, it is often that familiar view from the hotel terrace that comes first to mind – the sweep of the bay, the glint of sunlight on the water and the feeling that, for a little while at least, there is nowhere else in the world I'd rather be. FAQ Is the Pedn Olva Hotel in St Ives worth staying at? If you're looking for spectacular sea views and one of Cornwall's finest hotel locations, absolutely. Every room faces the sea and the hotel combines modern comfort with one of the best positions overlooking Porthminster Beach and St Ives harbour. Does the Pedn Olva Hotel have sea-view rooms? Yes. One of the hotel's biggest attractions is that every bedroom enjoys views across St Ives Bay, making it one of Cornwall's best ocean-view hotels. Is the Pedn Olva close to St Ives town centre? Very much so. The hotel sits just a short walk from the harbour, galleries, restaurants, independent shops and beaches, making it an excellent base for exploring St Ives on foot. Can you eat at the Pedn Olva without staying there? Yes. The restaurant and bar welcome non-residents and serve breakfast, lunch and dinner, specialising in local Cornish produce and seafood alongside traditional favourites. Which beach is next to the Pedn Olva? The hotel overlooks beautiful Porthminster Beach, one of Cornwall's best-known Blue Flag beaches, while St Ives Harbour is only a few minutes away. Is Pedn Olva dog friendly? Yes. Selected bedrooms welcome dogs, making it a good choice for visitors wanting to holiday in Cornwall with their pets. Who owns the Pedn Olva Hotel? The Pedn Olva is part of the St Austell Brewery family of hotels and pubs and has recently undergone a major refurbishment inspired by Cornwall's mining heritage and coastal setting. What can you do near the Pedn Olva? Visitors can enjoy Porthminster Beach, Tate St Ives, the Barbara Hepworth Museum and Sculpture Garden, boat trips around St Ives Bay, the South West Coast Path and the many cafés, galleries and independent shops that make the town one of Cornwall's most popular destinations.

Eilean Donan Castle at Dornie when the tide is out Hello, fellow travel enthusiasts... We have been hugely impressed - and indeed spellbound - in recent days. Why? Because we are in the beautiful Highlands of Scotland and, unbelievably, the weather has been absolutely superb, which has been a real treat as we've been told it hasn't stopped raining for the past three weeks! Our recent travels have taken us right across the stunning landscapes of Northern Scotland. Our journey has been defined by long drives, sun-kissed scenery, and the warm hospitality of Black Sheep Hotels. The Cuillins on the Isle of Skye The Warm Welcome of Black Sheep Hotels in Inverness & Whispering Pines Our adventure began in the vibrant heart of the Highlands, Inverness, where the elegant Ambassador Hotel by Black Sheep Hotels became our home away from home. Their hospitality and the city's unique charm set the perfect tone for our journey. We also had the pleasure of staying at the lovely Whispering Pines Hotel, which offered a truly peaceful retreat amidst the majestic beauty of the Scottish landscapes. Epic Drives: From Thurso to Skye in the Sunshine We've been blessed with some truly fabulous sunny days, perfect for those scenic Scottish drives we've all dreamt about. We've journeyed all the way up to Thurso, experiencing the raw beauty of the far north, and have also explored the magical Isle of Skye. Every twist and turn of the road revealed a new breathtaking vista, from rugged coastlines to rolling hills. More in-Depth Scottish Travel Stories to Come! This is just a small taster of our Scottish adventure. We have so many more details, insights, and beautiful moments to share with you. Keep your eyes peeled for upcoming, more in-depth posts about our visits to Inverness, Thurso, and Skye, along with our unique experiences with Black Heep Hotels. We can't wait to share the magic of the Highlands with you! Experience the Magic of the Highlands for Yourself In the meantime, we hope you enjoy these brief highlights. Feel free to follow along on our social media for real-time updates and more breathtaking Scottish visuals. the harbour at Portree on the Isle of Skye

Everyone has heard of Loch Ness for one very obvious reason - but how many readers, I wonder, know of it’s little sister, the sweetly named but equally splendid Loch Lochy? The Whispering Pine Lodge on Loch Lochy I know about it now because I recently spent a couple of nights on its southerly shore at an amazing hotel called The Whispering Pine Lodge. There can’t be many establishments in the UK better placed to show visitors the very best a place has to offer. You wake up, draw the curtains and the first thing you say is: “Wow!” Our view after opening the curtains at The Whispering Pine Lodge on Loch Lochy (We use Holiday Extras for our airport parking etc) For there, stretching before you, is the great elongated stretch of Loch Lochy, bordered on the either side by steep mountainsides. The view is magnificent. It is one of those places where you could wile away many ours without leaving your room, just admiring the view. Not that we did that - the weather was far too good to stay indoors. The Highlands have a way of wrecking the best-laid plans. You head out with a map and a modest itinerary, only to find the light hitting a sea loch so stunningly beautiful, you then double your intended mileage just to see what’s around the next headland. We did a lot of that during our recent stay at Whispering Pine Lodge, as I shall outline in a moment. But even if the heavens had delivered rain instead of sunshine I would have poured plenty of praise on this hotel. The lodge occupies a prime piece of Highland real estate, sitting right on the shores of Loch Lochy and tucked under a steep, wooded canopy that gives the place its name. The place has a long pedigree - originally built in the 1800s as a hunting lodge for the MacMartins of Letterfinlay, it eventually became the well-known Letterfinlay Lodge hotel. Under its current guise as part of the Black Sheep Hotels group, it has been polished into a retreat that feels both deeply traditional and cosmopolitan. The Whispering Pine Lodge on Loch Lochy Exploring Fort Augustus and the Great Glen We began our exploration of the area with a quick five minute drive to Fort Augustus, a village made famous by the fact that it sits at the southerly end of Loch Ness. This is one of the places where the Caledonian Canal leaves the natural lakes (or lochs), so any vessel travelling up or down the huge geological fault-line known as the Great Glen has to negotiate an impressive flight of locks right in the heart of the village. The Caledonian Canal locks at Fort Augustus You can spend a very pleasant half-hour watching the boats working their way up or down this watery ladder. In the bright, clear air of a Highland spring, the village was heaving with tourists and there was a distinct high-day and holiday feel as we strolled around. But with the sun high and the visibility stretching for miles, we felt the pull of the further west. The Great Glen is a magnificent trench, but on days like this, it serves as a gateway to the more jagged, wilder edges of the Atlantic coast. View looking up Loch Lochy The drive from Invergarry through Glen Moriston runs along a stretch of paved road the must be one of the most magnificent in Britain. It follows the river through a landscape of ancient birch and pine, eventually opening out as you climb toward the watershed. When the weather is as fine, the light illuminates range after range of hills, turning the distant peaks of Kintail into a series of overlapping blue silhouettes. One of the views on the drive from Invergarry through Glen Moriston We made our way to Dornie, where the iconic Eilean Donan Castle sits at the meeting point of three great sea lochs. Even for those who’ve seen it a thousand times on postcards and in TV travelogues, the old fort remains a marvel. As we’d visited before, we didn’t stop for the tour this time - my thoughts were firmly on the Kyle of Lochalsh and the great sweeping arc of the Skye Bridge. The iconic Eilean Donan Castle A Pilgrimage to the Isle of Skye For me, crossing onto the Isle of Skye felt like a form of pilgrimage. Nearly 50 years ago I drove all the way up to the Highlands in an old Morris 1000 van with a rowing boat on the roof, but back in those days the glorious road I’ve just described over from Invergarry was just a single track thing that rattled the bones out of both any car and certainly an old wooden boat. So we gave up and took the shorter drive to Oban - and I’ve never attempted to reach the isle since. Nowadays all the Highlands roads are glorious, by the way - far better than our own down south - and I drove our posh BMW hire car across the big bridge and finally onto Skye with a very broad smile upon my face. This huge island has a heft and gravity of its own. The place somehow draws you in with the promise of landscapes that feel older and more elemental than anything on the mainland. Bronze sculpture at Sligachan of Norman Collie and John Mackenzie, Cuillin pioneers We pushed north, the Red Cuillins rising to our left, their scree slopes glowing in the midday sun. Our destination was Portree, the island’s capital. In my humble opinion, there is no point in looking for linen-tablecloth dining when the harbour offers fish and chips that can be eaten straight from a cardboard carton. Not while fishing boats bob in the water and you can sit in warm sunshine out of a cool wind down on the harbour beach. Portree harbour Rather than retracing our steps, we decided to make a proper day of it by heading north to Uig and then west out toward Dunvegan. We bypassed the village’s famous castle, partly because it was closed, and also because we just wanted to admire the truly magnificent landscapes and seascapes of western Skye. A ferry at Uig Harbour, Skye The drive down this western coast, past Coillnore and Drynoch, offers a dramatic and raw Atlantic perspective that many visitors miss. I am tempted to say: this is proper Skye and it couldn’t be anywhere else. But then, I’ve never been over to the nearby Hebrides - I suspect they might well have similar terrains. One of my ambitions now is to visit the likes of Uist and Harris. Sea loch at Dunvegan The great western shores of Skye are windswept and rugged, punctuated by small crofting communities and sudden, breathtaking views of the sea. As we rounded the southern end of our loop, the Black Cuillins came into view - jagged, dark, and vast. I told my wife that the last time I saw anything similar - a place so big and so empty - was way up in the Yukon. The Cuillins are, perhaps, the most impressive mountains in Britain, and in this light, they looked like something from a Norse myth. Road south towards the Black Cuillins Culinary Surprises in the Highlands By the time we crossed back over the bridge and began the long journey south, the shadows were lengthening. It had been a long travel day - the kind where your eyes are slightly weary from the sheer scale of the scenery. So we stopped for dinner at Rokeby Manor, a sister property to the Whispering Pine, located near Invergarry. It is a handsome Victorian house, but the menu inside is a delightful surprise. Instead of the predictable “haggis-and-heather” clichés, we were treated to an Indian-themed dinner that was subtle, authentic, and full of genuine craft. Rokeby Manor, a sister property to the Whispering Pine This unique Highland-meets-India culinary theme is something that sets the Black Sheep Hotels apart. Back at the Whispering Pine Lodge, the food is similarly inspired. There is something brilliant about sitting in a room filled with Highland pine and looking out over the dark waters of Loch Lochy while eating food that carries the genuine heat and complexity of the subcontinent. The Lochside Brasserie manages a clever trick: it feels like a traditional Highland lodge, yet the kitchen produces Indian-inspired dishes that are genuinely delicious. The next morning, the loch was a mirror, and we really could hear the whispering or soughing in the neighbouring pines. During our stay we’d covered hundreds of miles, seen some of the finest scenery in Europe, and returned to a place that felt like a sanctuary. The Highlands may be unpredictable, but when the weather and the hospitality align as they did on this trip, there is nowhere else on earth quite like it. Chicken tikka is a Black Sheep Hotel speciality and absolutely first class A Marriage of Spices and Scenery While the menus at The Whispering Pine Lodge and Rokeby Manor offer local staples like cullen skink and haggis, it is the authentic North Indian and “Northern Frontier” cuisine that really distinguishes these Highland outposts. This is a far cry from a high-street takeaway - here, the spices are handled with the kind of restraint and complexity you’d expect from a specialist kitchen. For starters, there’s dahi chaat -bite-sized pastry puffs filled with chickpeas, tamarind chutney, and cooling yoghurt. My chicken tikka was simply one of the best I have ever sampled, cooked in a traditional clay tandoor oven. The main courses lean into rich, slow-cooked territory. The dal makhani, a North Indian black lentil curry simmered for hours, is creamy and comforting, while the Hyderabadi lamb shank—marinated in yoghurt and spices—falls away from the bone k. For those preferring seafood, the fish Amritsari offers a Punjabi-influenced take on local catch. A bold, successful marriage of Scottish produce and subcontinental heritage. Morning view from The Whispering Pine Lodge Fact File 1 The Whispering Pine Lodge and Cabins is set against a backdrop of steep forested mountain on the banks of Loch Lochy. With its own private pebbled beach, it is a short drive from Fort William. The Lochside Brasserie offers waterside dining. For further information telephone 01397 713966, email reservations@blacksheephotel.com or visit https://www.blacksheephotels.com/the-whispering-pine-lodge. Prices start from £575 for two nights for two people. Fact File 2 Martin uses Holiday Extras, the market leader in UK airport parking, hotels, lounges, and transfers. Booking airport parking means you can enjoy more holiday with less hassle. Plus with Flextras, if you need to cancel or amend you can without charge. Five days’ Meet & Greet parking at Bristol Airport is available from £138. For more information and to book, HolidayExtras.com or call 0800 316 5678. A rare view of the summit of Ben Nevis from close to the Whispering Pine Lodge FAQ Where is the Whispering Pine Lodge? The Whispering Pine Lodge stands on the shores of beautiful Loch Lochy near Spean Bridge in the Scottish Highlands. Its location makes it an excellent base for exploring Fort William, Ben Nevis, Glenfinnan and the Isle of Skye. Is the Whispering Pine Lodge a good base for visiting the Isle of Skye? Yes. Although the Isle of Skye is a day trip away, the lodge is perfectly placed for scenic drives through the Highlands, allowing visitors to combine Skye with attractions such as Glenfinnan, Loch Ness and Fort William. Can you visit Ben Nevis from the Whispering Pine Lodge? Absolutely. Ben Nevis and the Nevis Range are within easy driving distance, making the hotel an excellent choice for walkers, sightseers and outdoor enthusiasts exploring the Highlands. Does the Whispering Pine Lodge overlook Loch Lochy? Yes. One of the hotel's greatest attractions is its stunning lochside setting, with many rooms and public areas enjoying panoramic views across Loch Lochy towards the surrounding Highland mountains. Is there plenty to see near the Whispering Pine Lodge? There is no shortage of places to explore. Nearby attractions include Glenfinnan Viaduct, the Jacobite Steam Train, Ben Nevis, Neptune's Staircase, Loch Ness, the Great Glen and the Isle of Skye, making the lodge an ideal touring base.

Inverness, looking along the River Ness to the north The excitement of travelling abroad while staying in one’s own country might sound like a misnomer, but it is possible as I found out last week. We took a one hour 10 minute flight to Inverness from Bristol so that we could stay in a newly revamped hotel and explore the UK’s most northerly region, and I can report that there were times when I felt we’d travelled further afield than plenty of destinations I could name where you’d need a passport. And yes, before you say it, I know Scotland is a country in its own right - indeed, I dedicated my newspaper column last weekend to supporting the idea of Scottish independence. A lonely old croft way up in Flow Country The Ease of Heading North But it was the ease of getting there that really impressed me from the get-go. Just leave your car with Holiday Extras Meet and Greet at Bristol Airport, shuffle through security and just over an hour later, step out into what really does feel like another country. I like to travel by train whenever possible, but the last time I went this far north by rail it took over 10 hours and cost far more. We paid £19 each one way on EasyJet and the moment we stepped out of the plane at Inverness airport there was a sense that we had somehow arrived in a different world. The UK had a real taste of spring last week and we were very fortunate indeed - so we used every last ray of the warm sunshine to see whatever we could in what really is one of the most beautiful countries in the world. Also see our review of another fantastic Black Sheep Hotel by clicking here Ambassador Hotel Inverness on Ardross Terrace overlooking River Ness Boutique Luxury at the Ambassador Hotel Inverness We were invited north of the border by a small local hotel chain. Black Sheep Hotels owns a handful of excellent establishments up in that part of the world and we began our stay at the newly revamped Ambassador, located in the heart of Inverness. The town has seen a lot of change in recent times, but few things are as impressive as the transformation of the old Strathness House on Ardross Terrace, right next to the cathedral on the famous River Ness. Now rebranded as the Ambassador Hotel, its refurbishment has been a great deal more than a lick of paint. The group, owned by the siblings Sanjay and Rachna Narang, has poured some £6 million into the site, turning two 19th-century Victorian townhouses into a boutique sanctuary. The Ambassador Hotel Inverness, opposite the cathedral The rooms are “newly appointed” in the truest sense - think 19th-century travel themes meeting modern rainfall showers and beds so comfortable they threaten to derail your itinerary. Fresh and thoughtfully done, with that pleasing sense that someone has actually considered what a guest might actually want. After a day on the road (and there would be many, many miles of road ahead for my wife and I) it felt like somewhere you could properly switch off. And that was partly thanks to the incredibly helpful and friendly staff. 19th-century travel themes meet modern luxury in the newly appointed rooms. Scottish-Indian Fusion: A Culinary Masterstroke Another masterstroke is the food. The hotel’s restaurant, Talk of the Town, has what could be called a “Scottish-Indian fusion” menu that is extremely enjoyable and satisfying. Under executive chef Sinclair Pinto, who has Michelin-star DNA, the cuisine manages to pair the Highland harvest with authentic Bombay spice. Highland harvest meets Bombay spice: Salmon tikka at the "Talk of the Town" restaurant. I realise the weather doesn’t always play ball up in Scotland. And had the mists and rain rolled in, I’d have been happy to curl up in our large suite overlooking the river and read a book - but the sun was out, so off we went to do some sightseeing. Which is a huge understatement, because we really did go for it. On one day alone, I drove our hire car some 300 miles. And why not? I repeat: Scotland is one of the most beautiful countries in the world - so if the weather is good it seems reasonable to see as much as you can. Viewpoint on the road to Bonar Bridge from Inverness Journey to the Frontier: Lairg and Bonar Bridge The route north from Inverness becomes wilder and more remote every mile you go. You pass through places whose names sound like fragments of an older language - Bonar Bridge, Lairg, Helmsdale - each one a tiny punctuation mark in a vast landscape that grows steadily wilder. At Bonar Bridge, the Kyle of Sutherland river narrows and glints beneath the road. Here the water is tidal and shifting - the surrounding hills soft and ancient. The place somehow feels like border country. You’ve left the main road behind and you are on a threshold. Beyond, the Highlands proper stretch north and west in earnest. Directly north you reach the village of Lairg, which somehow feels even more like a frontier. You still see a few fields and man-made parts of the landscape, but north and west everything is wild. War memorial at Bonar Bridge Driving the Highland Wilds For many people the drive so far may have been enough. You’ll certainly have seen some impressive countryside. But driving in the far north is not like motoring anywhere else in Britain. The roads are quieter. You can travel for miles without seeing another car. And the road surfaces - something we all grumble about down south - are far superior. I’d say the ratio of potholes in these parts is 1-to-100 compared to our own highways and byways - probably because of that lack of traffic. The driver can enjoy long, sweeping stretches of road. Driving like it used to be, is how I’d put it. You also come across lengthy sections of single track road - the one north of Lairg to Tongue is over 45 miles in length, which would be a nightmare in the busy West Country. But up here it’s fine - at this time of year, at least. We came down it after doing a huge loop up around Thurso, and we only passed one other vehicle on that entire section of single road. Wild and empty views up in Flow Country Which is just as well because the landscape demands the driver’s attention. Wide moorlands roll away to distant hills. Lochs appear unexpectedly, catching the sky in their still surfaces. The light changes constantly - a patchwork of sun and shadow drifts across peat-bog, mountain, loch and lochan. Scotland has more than 30,000 fresh water lochs. It is the kind of scenery that makes you pull over, again and again, simply to look or take a thousand photos. Helmsdale and the Flow Country Once we’d reached Lairg at the start of our lasso-shaped drive, we headed towards the coast and the village of Helmsdale which, you could say, is where the Highlands meet the North Sea. The harbour at Helmsdale It’s an attractive and historic place - a village born from the hardships of the Highland Clearances - of which we were to see plenty of evidence. Somehow the quaint fishing harbour belies the strife that went on here a couple of centuries or more ago. Harbour at Helmsdale in mercurial light Next comes “the big empty”. The drive from Helmsdale up to Thurso takes you across what’s known as the Flow Country - an area of deep peat, dotted with bog pools, that forms the heart of the Caithness and Sutherland peatlands. I’ll be honest: I did not know anything like this vast and empty landscape existed in the UK. Nor did I know that there would be so many ruined old crofts still in evidence. Even a visiting Martian could see there was a time when the human population of this wild place was removed for some reason or other. Stupidity, cruelty, and greed, being the driving force behind one George Granville Leveson-Gower, the 1st Duke of Sutherland. Sea-front at Thurso looking across to Dunnet Head Thurso and the Costa Del North No, we did not go to John O’Groats. Why not? Well, because I’ve been to famous “most westerly, southerly, easterly” places before and those tourist magnets do not appeal. And anyway, nearby Dunnet Head, which you can see, from Thurso happens to be the real “most northerly” spot in the UK. Dunnet Head as seen from Thurso And the ancient town of Thurso does hit the right boxes. Partly because it’s a fine and unpretentious little town - and also because it was lunchtime, so we enjoyed excellent fish and chips right there on Britain’s most northerly seafront promenade, looking across the Pentland Firth to the Orkneys. Looking across the Pentland Firth to the distant Orkneys From Thurso, the road bends west, and the landscape shifts again. This is perhaps the most remarkable stretch of all - a place where mountains rise more abruptly, where the land feels older and more elemental. I’d never really thought about the “Costa Del North” before, but the roof of mainland Britain is one of the most remarkable coastlines I have ever travelled along. The small road weaves its way through lonely, empty, hills - passing through isolated communities such as Dounrey, Melvich, Armadake and Bettyhill - before depositing you beside the truly magnificent sea-lock at Tongue. Wow! And thrice wow! I loved it. I loved every mile of it. The lonely north coast of Flow Country A Dreamscape Return And I wanted to continue, which is possible because that valiant little highway will take you on to Durness and eventually down the West Coast past Cape Wrath. I dearly hope I shall return to do that some other time. Because the Scottish gloaming was beginning and dark clouds marshalling their forces out west looked like they might contain more than rain. The sea-loch at Tongue You wouldn’t want to be out here if snow started falling, so we took that tiny road from Tongue all the way down to Lairg - and I mention it once again because driving down it is like travelling through a dreamscape. The emptiness of the landscape somehow enters your soul. To leave Bristol in the morning and, by lunchtime, be driving through such places is a rare and wonderful thing. It reminds you that Britain still has its wild corners. Its quiet zones. Its edges. These places are not so far away at all - and you can stay in extremely comfortable and reasonably priced places like the Ambassador Hotel. Chicken tikka at The Talk of the Town, Ambassador Hotel, Inverness Fact File Located on the banks of the River Ness, The Ambassador Hotel is boutique hotel with 14 individually designed rooms. Telephone: 01463 232765 Email: reservations@ambassadorinverness.com Website: www.theambassadorinverness.com Rates: Prices start from £376 for two nights for two people - book before 30th April 2026 to take advantage of a special summer promotion with discounts of up to 25% (on bookings taken before 25th October 2026). Frequently Asked Questions about the Ambassador Hotel, Inverness Is the Ambassador Hotel Inverness a good place to stay? Yes. The Ambassador Hotel offers comfortable accommodation within easy walking distance of Inverness city centre. It combines Victorian character with modern facilities, making it a popular choice for both leisure travellers and those touring the Scottish Highlands. How far is the Ambassador Hotel from Inverness city centre? The hotel is around a 10 to 15-minute walk from the heart of Inverness, making it easy to explore the city's shops, restaurants, riverside walks and historic attractions without needing to drive. Is the Ambassador Hotel a good base for exploring the Scottish Highlands? Absolutely. Inverness is often described as the capital of the Highlands, and the Ambassador Hotel provides an excellent base for visiting Loch Ness, Culloden Battlefield, Cawdor Castle, the Black Isle and the North Coast 500. Does the Ambassador Hotel have parking? Yes, the hotel provides parking for guests, although it's always worth checking availability when you book, particularly during the busy summer months. What are the best things to do near the Ambassador Hotel? Popular nearby attractions include Inverness Castle, the River Ness, Eden Court Theatre, Inverness Museum and Art Gallery, and the Victorian Market. Many visitors also take day trips to Loch Ness and Urquhart Castle. When is the best time to visit Inverness? Late spring through early autumn offers the best weather for sightseeing and exploring the Highlands. May and September are particularly attractive months, often combining pleasant weather with fewer visitors than the peak summer season. Can you walk from the Ambassador Hotel to restaurants and pubs? Yes. One of the hotel's strengths is its convenient location. A good selection of restaurants, cafés and traditional Highland pubs can be reached on foot from the hotel. Travel Essentials Martin uses Holiday Extras, the market leader in UK airport parking, hotels, lounges, and transfers. In 2025 its customers saved an average of £200 per trip by booking in advance. Booking airport parking means you can enjoy more holiday with less hassle. Plus with Flextras, if you need to cancel or amend you can without charge. Five days’ Meet & Greet parking at Bristol Airport is available for £138.00 based on arrival on 16/04/2026. For more information and to book, visit HolidayExtras.com or call 0800 316 5678. The lonesome mountains of Flow Country

A Taste of Elegant Tuscany Grotta Giusti: Tuscany’s Hidden Thermal Wonder The composer Giuseppe Verdi once said: “You may have the universe if I may have Italy…” Which is relevant to what follows as Verdi used to stay at one of the two remarkable hotels in Tuscany which are the focus of this feature. 🏨 Two Iconic Tuscan Spa Hotels They know a lot of things about quality and class, those Italians - and Verdi was no exception. Tuscany is perhaps the standard-bearer for this rule. Just about everywhere you look in this province you will see beautiful, classical, views. Just about everywhere you eat you will be treated to wonderful food. And just about everywhere you stay there’ll be something exceptional about your surroundings. That is what I was thinking on my dual-hotel trip to Tuscany recently - a long-weekend which was full of novelty and surprises as well as the high quality I was expecting. And I emphasise the long-weekend factor because Pisa Airport is just a two hour flight on one of the regular easyJet services from Bristol, so easily do-able by anyone living in the West Country. 🏛️ Italian Hospitality Collection: A Classic Experience Grotta Giusti garden Anyway, my friends in the travel public relations world know that I have a weakness for the kind of Bel Epoque style hotels which hark back to times that were somehow more elegant, classy and altogether more stylish than the blander, ubiquitous, offerings presented by many of the big international hostility groups today. Which is why they introduced me to the folks who run the Italian Hospitality Collection - a world-class hotel, resort and spa brand that provides… “rich, authentic experiences for travellers who seek to feel loved, cherished and indulged in a genuine Italian lifestyle.” 🌿 Grotta Giusti: Tuscany’s Hidden Thermal Wonder Grotta Giusti hot water cave underneath the hotel That is what it says on the side of the very chic and classy tin, and also what you get inside. Here is what my invitation had to stay about the first of the two Tuscan hotels I visited… “With a decadent history as the former home of famed poet Giuseppe Giusti, Grotta Giusti is now a prestigious hotel that has maintained its historical air and natural charm with a backdrop of antique furnishings and paintings. It offers lavish rooms with marble bathrooms, a large outdoor thermal swimming pool and a private underground thermal cave and lake, where guests can scuba dive or indulge in a spot of floating therapy.” Apart from being elegant and lovely to look at, it was one of the most remarkable hotels I’ve ever stayed in. No wonder Giuseppe Verdi used to stay here. The lovely naturally heated pool at Grotta Giusti ♨️ Thermal Spa Culture in Tuscany Basically, both the Grotta Guisti and its sister hotel - the palatial Bagni di Pisa, 40 miles away - evolved over time because of their twin locations, which happen to be right on top of a major geological fault that crosses Italy. What this means is that hot water warmed by the Earth’s core bubbles close to the surface - and that this has been utilised for all manner of curative and cleansing purposes since Roman senators once relaxed hereabout 2000 years ago. Hot water spas play a much bigger part in Italian culture than they do here - indeed both hotels feature a new wellness programme called Equilibrium, developed by top doctors who incorporate the various spa therapies to help reduce inflammation in the body. We haven’t time here to go into this in detail, but I had a chat with Equilibrium’s founder, a Dr Fortunati, and he told me how the programme focuses on the relationship between the mind and the nervous, endocrine and immune systems. The front of Bagni di Pisa hotel and spa 🚶‍♂️ Exploring the Tuscan Countryside It all seemed to make sense, but I was only around for a weekend so wanted to simply soak up the lovely feeling of being in Tuscany in spring. To do this I went for a couple of wonderful walks and a cycle ride around the picturesque rural area in which the hotel is set. I also enjoyed swimming in the vast open air pool which is open also to members of the public who turn up in droves to immerse themselves in its hot waters. It was all wonderfully Italian, with large family groups chatting and laughing as they bobbed out amid steam in spring sunshine. 🌌 Floating Therapy & The Thermal Cave Experience Grotta Giusti has recently undergone an extensive €1.5 million renovation. Verdi described the place as the “eighth wonder of the world” – mainly because it does boast the largest thermal cave in Europe - but I couldn’t help but wonder how much more he’d be impressed now It is in the cave that guests can scuba dive or indulge in that spot of “floating therapy”, which I found to be a profoundly moving experience. People regularly come out of the cave in tears after floating weightlessly - some say it’s like being in their mother’s womb. Your body adapts to the hot water in the cave where you are escorted at all times by experienced divers. The air is hot as well, so that when a diver holds you weightless on the tips of his fingers and gently swishes you about, you feel as though you are floating weightless in outer space. Town centre at Lucca 🏛️ Bagni di Pisa: Aristocratic Spa Luxury The pools and therapies available at the sister Bagni di Pisa hotel are altogether different. Same hot water, but another atmosphere. Slightly more upmarket. Reminiscent of the sort of place Agatha Christie might have visited. If Hercule Poirot ever went anywhere to “take the waters” this would be the place. Actually, someone who did write something famous in this very hotel was Mary Shelley - who finished penning her story Frankenstein here after being partly inspired to write it back at home in Somerset’s Quantock Hills. I attended a wine class in the sumptuous bar area named after her and husband, poet Percy Bysshe Shelley. The Shelley bar is set in its original 18th century furnishings. The wonderful central town square in Lucca 🌍 Location & Nearby Tuscan Gems The Bagni di Pisa is an elegant five-star spa resort in San Giuliano Terme, just a few kilometres from Pisa, Livorno and Lucca, where we spent a wonderful Sunday morning exploring. And I’d say the hotel has more class in its little finger than many a hostelry I know where rooms cost three times the price. 👑 A Hotel Fit for Royalty Gustav IV Adolf of Sweden and George IV both stayed here as well as the Shelleys and all their famous friends. And if its good enough for the inventor of Frankenstein, it’s good enough for me. Although I did feel a little Frankenstein-like during a spa treatment which saw me covered head-to-toe in sea salt for some reason I could never quite determine. 🍷 Final Thoughts: A True Taste of Tuscany I was soon back on my feet again enjoying a true sumptuous dinner. The food in both hotels is as fabulous as you’d expect, but as I’ve written about the culinary experience in another article I won’t repeat it here. What I would say is - if you fancy a real and very elegant taste of Tuscany, then a stay at these hotels will most certainly fulfil your Italianate desires… Classic Tuscan countryside

Harbour Hotel, Christchurch Have you ever found yourself visiting somewhere new and thinking that you really would like to return? It must happen to all of us now and then - and last week I was on just such a return journey. The first time I ventured into the interesting corner of the South Coast in question, I was so taken with it the trip resulted in an article here in the Hesp Out West series. Some readers may recall an article about Hengistbury Head in east Dorset and the colourful beach huts on the sand-strip at Mudeford. Mudeford is actually a coastal community split in two - it’s dual sand-spits are interrupted by the watery mouth of Christchurch Harbour - a large natural lagoon lined by reed-beds and sandbanks which combine to make up the 870 acre SSSI (Site of Special Scientific Interest). Needless to say, it is a popular place for birdwatchers. Looking out over Christchurch Harbour Hengistbury Head and the View Across Christchurch Harbour The whole watery shooting match is protected from the prevailing gales in the English Channel by Hengistbury Head - which is something of a geological marvel in itself. Its layers of ironstone, clay, and sand are plain to see and they offer a glimpse of literally millions of years of history. Highlight What to Expect Top Tip for Visitors Location & Setting Situated right on the water's edge at Harbour Hotel Christchurch, looking out over the SSSI lagoon. Request a window table or sit on the outdoor terrace for panoramic views toward Mudeford. Culinary Focus Produce-led coastal dining with an emphasis on fresh, locally landed fish and seafood. Try Chef Patron Alex Aitken's signature seafood dishes or the catch-of-the-day specials. Vibe & Style Relaxed, upscale waterside atmosphere perfect for special occasions or weekend lunches. Pair your meal with a walk along Christchurch Harbour or over to Hengistbury Head. Nearby Highlights Mudeford Sandbank, colorful beach huts, and Warren Hill views over to the Isle of Wight. Take the short local ferry across the harbour entrance to explore the sand spit. Walk along the headland’s well-maintained paths as I did last summer and you’ll come across a diverse range of habitats, from heathland and grassland in the coastal acres to marshes and deep oak woodlands on the more sheltered inland side. The views from Warren Hill at the top of the headland are truly expansive, providing panoramas across Christchurch Harbour to the Isle of Wight. The famous beach-huts on the sand spit at Mudeford And it was while I was up there on Warren Hill that I spotted a rather wonderful looking hotel on the far side of Christchurch Harbour. Well… blow me down if I didn’t receive an email recently from a pubic relations person representing the hotel. On this return visit to east Dorset, I checked into the Harbour Hotel Christchurch and dined at The Jetty, the waterside restaurant led by chef Alex Aitken. An Invitation to The Jetty at Harbour Hotel Christchurch “I would love to invite you to join us at The Jetty at Harbour Hotel, Christchurch to mark a special milestone,” wrote the PR. “The waterside restaurant celebrates its 15th anniversary this winter - which is notable because The Jetty has become one of the South Coast’s best-loved dining destinations, renowned for its produce-led cooking, relaxed coastal atmosphere and uninterrupted harbour views. “Led by award-winning Chef Patron Alex Aitken, the restaurant has spent the past 15 years championing seasonal ingredients and strong relationships with local fishermen and producers.” Award-winning Chef Patron Alex Aitken, of The Jetty at the Harbour Hotel Well, blow me down twice in a row… Why? Because a dozen years ago I spent an entire day fishing and cooking with Alex Aitken and wrote about the experience in this newspaper. We were in the South Hams, and Alex was taking time out from The Jetty to do a seafood masterclass down at the Salcombe Harbour Hotel, which is part of the same group. And this is what I jotted in my notebook as we bobbed up and down catching not a single fish… “Alex Aitken is one of those larger-than-life types who seems utterly undaunted by either a lack of fish, or anything else for that matter. Which is probably why, as an untrained, unschooled chef - he managed to retain a Michelin star for over 14 years at various establishments he has either cooked at or owned.” The lack of fish was not a problem as Alex had plenty of fresh seafood that he - or someone at least - had caught earlier… And as he began to prepare various creatures of the deep, Alex told me about the idea of getting people to go fishing, then returning to a professional kitchen environment to watch it being cooked: “I like to go out with people and do the catch-it-cook-it-eat-it thing. It’s great to know exactly where the fish comes from, but it’s also about the freshness. “A lot of people are worried about how to treat fish - and they also get very species-particular. They’ll only eat Dover-sole, not lemon-sole. They’ll only eat cod, not whiting. I think this helps give people more respect for the fish we catch.” A dozen years later, here I was consuming a monumental fish dinner at The Jetty and talking to Alex once again. This time our chat covered the remarkable career of this rather enigmatic chef. Aitken is a rare breed in the culinary world: a Michelin-starred chef who never attended catering college and never worked in another person's kitchen. His journey began far from the kitchen-pass, starting as a 15-year-old on a fishing trawler in Dunbar, Scotland. These early experiences in the "dangerous" world of commercial fishing gave him an intuitive, lifelong understanding of seafood and a unique rapport with fishermen that allows him to source the best “wild food” directly from the quay. A gurnard ready for prep at The Jetty Chef Alex Aitken – From Fishing Trawler to Michelin Star Transitioning from the sea to the dining room, the young Aitken moved south and, initially, built his reputation as a maître d' in the classic style - the ultimate front-of-house “fixer”. It wasn’t until 1983, with the birth of his son AJ, that he and his wife Caroline took the plunge into restaurant ownership in the New Forest. Despite having never cooked professionally, Alex talks about being struck by a “great infection” for the craft. “I never went to college. I never learned to be a chef... I just got that bug. It was like an infection, but a great big infection. I just wanted more and more,” he told me the other day as we chatted in a comfortable at the Harbour Hotel, Christchurch. Driven by a relentless work ethic, he taught himself the trade by eating at the world’s best restaurants and working “night and day”, eventually holding a Michelin star for total of 15 years. “I’ve never ever worked in anybody else’s kitchens but my own,” Alex mused, explaining that this allows him to have a “very special relationship” with both his staff and his suppliers. “We see our customers as friends, not enemies. My staff don’t fear a customer arriving - they say, ‘That’s great, it’s another customer.’ And that is important. It’s vital. Why? Well, accountancy has managed the concept 'hospitality' out of this business in many ways - but not if I can help it. “As for our suppliers, if I visit one of the local quays and start talking to the fishermen, within a very short space of time I’m on the boat... I can build that relationship quite quickly. And I pay good dollar.” Although the Harbour Hotel Group is quite a large corporate concern, Alex sees The Jetty as a true family enterprise, working alongside his son and daughter-in-law within the business. AJ is general manager of the Harbour Hotel Christchurch which has The Jetty in its grounds and, like his father, he is a vocal advocate for “true hospitality”. Interior at The Jetty Dining at The Jetty – A Dorset Restaurant That Defies the Seasons Their his success is certainly visible in the numbers. Even on the rain-soaked Tuesday in February when we were there, The Jetty restaurant was packed. Same applied for the luncheon service. This, the pair told me, is achieved through a combination of high-value “story-driven” offers and also that staff culture which views customers as friends rather than enemies. I did not want to ask Alex his age but given his lengthy career I did wonder if he was still a hands-on chef working all the shifts… “Less and less, if I’m honest. I’m of a certain age! I’m in my fifth decade of cooking. But I am hands-on with every single menu, and I am in the kitchen at some point every single day. I also do something called ‘Lunch with Alex’ on the first Friday of the month, where I cook three courses live for the guests. It’s about talking to people.” And this, no doubt, is part of the reason his restaurant continues to defy the seasonal lulls seen along many parts of the South West coast. Yes, east Dorset is much more urban than vast swathes of the rural West Country, so there are “plenty of chimney pots” (which is how hospitality industry experts sometimes refer to a potential customer-base) but to be continuously busy during the back-end of winter would certainly be the envy of many a restauranteur, hotelier or publican in this region. Having experience a meal at The Jetty and a night at the comfortable Harbour Hotel Christchurch, I can tell you that the Aitken team gets everything just right. Harbour Hotel Christchurch – Fact File Harbour Hotel Christchurch is a waterfront boutique hotel overlooking Mudeford Quay on the Dorset coast. The hotel has 64 bedrooms and suites, many with views across the water, a luxury HarSPA and The Jetty restaurant. My comfortable room at the Harbour Hotel, Chistchurch Rooms from £135 per night, based on two adults sharing B&B. www.harbourhotels.co.uk/our-hotels/dorset/harbour-hotel-christchurch Frequently Asked Questions About The Jetty Christchurch Where is The Jetty restaurant located? The Jetty is situated at the Harbour Hotel Christchurch in East Dorset, positioned directly on the edge of Christchurch Harbour with views across the water toward Mudeford. Who is the chef at The Jetty in Christchurch? The Jetty is led by award-winning Chef Patron Alex Aitken, who previously held a Michelin star for over 14 years and specializes in fresh, produce-led seafood cooking. Do you need to book in advance for The Jetty? Yes, due to its popularity as a key South Coast dining destination, advance reservations are strongly recommended—especially for weekend lunches and dinner service during the summer season.

Working from anywhere sounds great until you find yourself in a situation with a looming deadline and no viable internet connection. Even worse, if you find yourself on the wrong end of a hack with all your client information seemingly lost in the void. For digital nomads, device security is not a niche concern. It is the job. Of course, basic cyber hygiene practices such as keeping software up to date, using antivirus protection, and maintaining backups are essential when you’re moving between airports, cafés, rental flats, and co-working spaces. It’s not glamorous advice, admittedly, but it is the sort of boring discipline that keeps a stolen password or malware hit from turning into a full-scale crisis. Password managers help here too, and cloud storage can help with continuity as well, especially if a device is lost or damaged. But free services come with trade-offs around storage limits, features, and sometimes privacy expectations. The point is not to avoid them entirely. It’s to know exactly what you are trusting them with. Be Careful With Public Wi-Fi Public Wi-Fi is convenient, but it’s also one of the easiest ways for your data to end up somewhere it absolutely should not. Travelers should always confirm the network name before connecting, avoid logging into sensitive accounts on public Wi-Fi, and use a business or personal VPN if they must connect. For digital nomads who are still figuring out what is a vpn vs proxy, it’s worth knowing that a VPN generally offers stronger protection for internet traffic on shared networks. Use Strong Authentication on Every Important Account A strong password is good. Strong authentication is better. MFA helps prevent unauthorized access even if a password has been compromised, and recommends using it whenever possible, especially for email accounts. That matters because email often acts as the master key to everything else: banking, storage, work apps, travel bookings, and password resets. If there is one habit worth treating as non-negotiable, it is enabling two-factor authentication on anything critical. Understand Privacy and Data Rules in Different Countries Digital nomads also need to remember that data protection is not identical everywhere. In Canada, PIPEDA applies to private-sector organizations that collect, use, or disclose personal information in the course of commercial activity. That doesn’t automatically tell you what happens in every country you visit, but it does underline the need to keep an eye on local rules and platform requirements when working abroad. Privacy law is not the most thrilling part of the nomad fantasy, but ignoring it is usually a bad way to make the story more interesting. Good Security Habits Make Remote Work More Sustainable It’s not really that complicated. Keep devices updated, use a password manager, back up your files, avoid trusting public networks, turn on MFA, and stay alert to how privacy rules change between countries. None of that makes you invincible, of course. But it does make you much harder to catch out, and that is usually what practical security is really about. This article was written in collaboration with our travel technology partners.

Traditional pleasure boat on the Dordogne River Introduction: The West Country Spirit in South West France If you're dreaming of a part of France where mediaeval castles crown wooded hills, rivers drift through golden limestone valleys and lunch can happily stretch into late afternoon, then the Dordogne deserves to be high on your list. During a week exploring this remarkable corner of south-west France, I discovered not just three exceptional hotels but a region that reminded me, in many ways, of the England I remember from childhood. This is my guide to one of France's most rewarding destinations. The West Country how it used to be. That would be one way of describing central south-western France. Highly rural, un-urbanised, unspoilt and gloriously beautiful. Last week these pages were all about the incredible food served in three Relais & Chateau hotels, but I decided to write a second article because this wonderful area is only a day’s drive if you cross to France by ferry, so almost within what I’d call “staycation status”. Which is important in these times when we don’t know if or when airlines will run out of fuel for their planes. In this guide • Why visit the Dordogne? • The best luxury hotels • Beautiful villages • Great food and wine • Castles and rivers • Things to do • Suggested itinerary • Frequently Asked Questions Why Visit the Dordogne? There are parts of France that dazzle you with grand boulevards, glamorous beaches or famous landmarks. The Dordogne works its magic rather differently. It doesn't shout for attention. Instead, it quietly wins you over with its gentle landscapes, timeless villages and an almost old-fashioned way of life that seems to have survived while much of the modern world rushed on ahead. It is a region that rewards those prepared to slow down. The roads twist lazily through rolling countryside where walnut groves, vineyards and sunflower fields compete for your attention. Around almost every corner there seems to be another honey-coloured village, another magnificent château perched high above the river or another inviting café where lunch is regarded as an important event rather than something to be hurried through. The River Dordogne is the lifeblood of the region. It winds gracefully through wooded valleys, beneath ancient bridges and past medieval castles that have watched over its waters for centuries. Whether you choose to paddle a canoe downstream, drift along on a traditional gabarre, or simply sit beside the river with a glass of local wine, it is impossible not to feel yourself slipping into a slower rhythm of life. History is everywhere. Some of Europe's finest prehistoric cave paintings lie hidden beneath these hills, while bastide towns, Romanesque churches and ancient fortresses tell stories stretching back hundreds, even thousands, of years. Yet the Dordogne never feels like an open-air museum. These places are still lived in, loved and very much part of everyday life. Then there is the food. For many people, that alone is reason enough to visit. This is one of France's great gastronomic regions, famous for duck, foie gras, black truffles, walnuts, strawberries, goat's cheese and the excellent wines of nearby Bergerac. Village markets overflow with fresh local produce, while family-run restaurants and Michelin-starred dining rooms celebrate ingredients that rarely have to travel more than a few miles. Perhaps what I like most about the Dordogne is that it feels reassuringly real. It has not been polished into perfection for visitors. Farmers still work the land, church bells still punctuate the day and village life carries on much as it always has. For those seeking authentic France rather than manufactured attractions, this beautiful corner of the country is hard to better. Spend a few days here and you'll soon understand why so many visitors return again and again. The Dordogne has a quiet charm that lingers long after you've packed your suitcase and headed home. It is the sort of place that gently gets beneath your skin, leaving you already planning your next visit before the first one has quite come to an end. Great Food and Wine If there is one thing the people of the Dordogne understand better than most, it is how to enjoy good food. Meals here are not simply about satisfying hunger; they are occasions to be savoured, shared and remembered. Even the simplest village restaurant often serves dishes prepared with a care and pride that would put many city establishments to shame. This is one of France's great food regions, blessed with an astonishing abundance of local produce. Duck appears in almost every imaginable form, from confit and magret to rich foie gras. Black truffles, known locally as the 'black diamonds' of the Périgord, add their unmistakable flavour to many winter dishes, while walnuts, strawberries, mushrooms and artisan cheeses all play starring roles on local menus. Markets are a joy to explore, their colourful stalls piled high with freshly picked vegetables, homemade pâtés, crusty bread and tempting pastries. It is the sort of place where you find yourself buying ingredients for an impromptu picnic simply because everything looks so irresistible. The wines deserve equal attention. Nearby Bergerac produces excellent reds, whites and rosés, along with the celebrated sweet wines of Monbazillac. They may not enjoy the international fame of neighbouring Bordeaux, but that is very much to the visitor's advantage, offering outstanding quality and remarkable value. Together, the food and wine provide one more compelling reason why the Dordogne is such a rewarding destination. Castles and Rivers The River Dordogne has shaped this region for centuries, carving its way through wooded valleys and beneath towering limestone cliffs before meandering past some of the finest castles in France. It is difficult to imagine a more picturesque landscape. Time and again the road rounds a bend to reveal another magnificent château standing proudly above the river, as though keeping watch over the countryside below. Many of these castles date back to the Hundred Years' War, when this corner of France found itself on the frontier between England and France. Today they provide a fascinating glimpse into a turbulent past, their towers, battlements and great halls remarkably well preserved. Among the most impressive are Beynac, Castelnaud and the fairy-tale Château de la Treyne, each offering spectacular views across the valley. The river itself is every bit as captivating. Traditional gabarre boats once carried timber and wine downstream, while today visitors are more likely to explore by canoe or kayak, drifting peacefully beneath ancient bridges and past sleepy riverside villages. Others simply choose to sit beside the water with a leisurely lunch or a glass of Bergerac wine, watching the world glide gently by. In the Dordogne, the river is not just part of the scenery – it is the heartbeat of the region. Things to Do in the Dordogne The beauty of the Dordogne is that there is no shortage of things to see and do, yet nothing ever feels hurried. One day might be spent wandering around a bustling market in Sarlat, the next exploring a mediaeval castle or discovering one of Europe's most remarkable prehistoric cave sites. Every outing seems to uncover another layer of the region's rich history and culture. Those who enjoy the outdoors are particularly well served. Canoeing along the River Dordogne is one of the classic experiences, offering a wonderfully peaceful way to admire the castles and villages from the water. Walkers and cyclists will find miles of quiet country lanes and woodland paths, while gardeners can visit some of France's finest formal gardens, many attached to magnificent country houses. Food lovers are equally spoiled. Morning markets brim with local produce, vineyard tours introduce the excellent wines of Bergerac and Monbazillac, and countless restaurants celebrate the region's celebrated gastronomy, from rustic village bistros to Michelin-starred dining rooms. Perhaps the greatest pleasure of all, however, is simply taking your time. Stop for coffee in a sleepy village square, linger over lunch beneath the shade of a plane tree or pause at a viewpoint overlooking the river. In the Dordogne, some of the happiest moments are the unplanned ones, when you stumble upon a hidden village or a breathtaking view that never appeared in the guidebooks. What is Relais & Châteaux? A Unique Luxury Travel Experience While each of the three hotels we visited is unique, they share a common DNA as members of Relais & Châteaux. This global association is not a hotel chain, more a fellowship of independent “Maîtres de Maison”, dedicated to the “Art of Living”. In order to belong, an establishment must offer more than luxury - it must possess a distinctiveness and a deep-rooted connection to its local terroir. The Dordogne’s “Triple Crown” of Luxury Hotels The holy trinity I choose consisted of Château de la Treyne - a jaw-droopingly beautiful cliff-top sentinel perched above the River Dordogne. Le Vieux Logis offers an intimate village sanctuary - homely luxury with a rich heritage, among the Dordogne of water meadows. And La Chapelle Saint Martin serves as the pastoral gateway, a manor of parkland and porcelain history. Château de la Treyne: A Cliff-Top Castle Above the Dordogne We’re in the more easterly, upstream end of the Dordogne River when we visit the first. You drive across a narrow suspension bridge to reach Château de la Treyne and, as you go, you can see it perched dramatically on its cliff above the river. It is one of those “wow” moments. Even I, after 40 years of travel-writing, muttered to my wife: “Blimey! Are we really staying there?” Its beautiful proportioned towers and weathered stone battlements are reflected on the surface of one of France’s loveliest waterways. The castle doesn’t just sit by the river, it looms over it. But once you’ve arrived up the splendid private drive, you find that Château de la Treyne manages a magic of its own. Despite being such an imposing place (you really do feel this is a place reserved for the French aristocracy of old) you discover that this ancient fortress feels like a home. Our gorgeous red-themed suite at Château de la Treyne The staff are so warm and friendly, you instantly feel that you’re welcome to put up your feet here alongside any millionaires or celebrities who might be there. And you are likely to meet the owner, Stephanie, who couldn’t be more charming and welcoming. One night when the Michelin starred kitchen was closed she personally served us a lovely fresh salad she’d made along with some delightful local cheeses, and stayed chatting for an hour telling us all about how she and her husband had poured cash and much passion into the place over many years. An investment which is noticeable. In my job I have visited a vast number of hotels and rarely do I come away muttering words like “absolute perfection”. At Château de la Treyne, I did. The exquisite and historic dining room at Château de la Treyne Curated Silence: The Landscape and Atmosphere It’s a place defined by what I heard described as a “curated silence”. To the rear, a forest stretches across 120 acres of the estate and up into the steep hills - but this sense of wilderness is balanced by formal gardens which offer a contrast of manicured box-hedges and gravel paths. The kind of landscape that encourages a slow, rhythmic existence. You find yourself walking the terrace - a wide, stone-flagged expanse that feels like the deck of a great ship - simply to watch the way the evening light catches the grey-gold of the Quercy stone. I could happily have stayed in our grand suite overlooking the river for days. From the four-poster bed we could see the river winding its way west among the steep hills and, as the martins and swifts came and went with their shrill cries, there were times when I didn’t know if I was waking or dreaming. Château de la Treyne looms high above the River Dordogne Le Vieux Logis: A Village Sanctuary in the Dordogne Good dreams also happen at Le Vieux Logis, some 45 miles downstream. If you take the scenic route along the river, as we did, it is a truly memorable journey. You pass impossibly scenic villages such as La Roque-Gageac and Limeuil, to name but two. The French colleague who arranged our trip put things this way… “If Château de la Treyne is a soaring aria, Le Vieux Logis is a masterfully composed piece of chamber music.” The beautiful gardens at Le Vieux Logis Compared to the chateau, is a place of horizontal beauty where the stone buildings - a former priory and a collection of tobacco-drying barns - seem to have grown directly out of the water meadows. The delight here is found in the detail… the sound of the ancient mill leat trickling through the grounds and the architectural precision of the boxwood gardens, which look like a green velvet tapestry laid out in the spring sunshine. And here too, there is an effortless, lived-in elegance that is a long way from the stiff formality of many high-end French hotels. You feel it in the way the sunlight filters through the lime trees onto the terrace and in the cosy, honey-coloured interiors that smell faintly of woodsmoke and beeswax. The River Dordogne as it sweeps past the village of Trémolat Château de la Treyne Best for: Romance, Michelin dining and spectacular river views. Le Vieux Logis Best for: Garden lovers, foodies and exploring the villages of the Périgord. La Chapelle Saint Martin Best for: Peace, parkland and discovering the Limousin. Life in Trémolat: Authentic Rural France This is a village sanctuary, deeply integrated into the life of the small and lovely community of Trémolat. The boundary between the hotel’s parkland and the surrounding village and countryside is somehow blurred. The chateau was perched aloft - somehow dreamily tucked away from the world - this place is very much part of a very pleasant, small, living, working community. We met an English couple during our stay who’ve lived in another part of France for 15 years, and they described Le Vieux Logis as “one of the best small hotels in the country”. Which is saying something. A peaceful, garden-scented retreat where time slows down to the pace of the river looping lazily through the valley nearby. Le Vieux Logis, pictured on the right, is in the heart of the village of Tremolat And again, a wonderful warm and friendly staff. There is a story about how the previous owner - a well known figure in the district - spent years developing the place with his wife, then passed away leaving the property to a small handful of core members of staff. It was a good move. They have an undoubted passion for the place. I’ve stayed at Le Vieux Logis before and one of them, manageress Estelle, really did welcome me like an old friend the other day. Her husband, another of the owners, is the Michelin starred chef, and a very talented one at that. This wooded hills and valleys around Trémolat are lovely. I’d go as far as to say it is one of the prettiest areas in all of South West France. I would happily spend a week or two here e-biking from village to village, or perhaps canoeing down the river. There are lots of old homes and buildings in the Dordogne village of Tremolat La Chapelle Saint Martin: Limousin Elegance and Parkland Retreat We flew to Limoges on our recent trip, which brings me to the third of our hotels - because La Chapelle Saint Martin is just minutes from the regional airport (about an hour-and-a-half’s drive from Château de la Treyne). The highly regarded award winning establishment offers a different kind of charm, defined by the expansive rolling parklands of the Haute-Vienne. If the other two hotels are dominated by the Dordogne, this 19th-century manor house sits within a forty-acre estate of ancient cedars and sprawling lawns that provide a sense of exclusive peace and quiet. La Chapelle Saint Martin sits in its own parkland above two lakes The manor, once the country retreat of a wealthy porcelain manufacturer, overlooks wide lawns set in mature woodlands, punctuated by a series of small lakes. Walking the grounds feels like stepping into a nineteenth-century landscape painting - a manicured wilderness that manages to be both grand and deeply peaceful. It’s the perfect environmental palate cleanser - a welcome transition from the hustle and bustle of travel to the stillness of a truly historic French retreat. And the couple who own and run the place are clever people. Gilles Dudognon and his partner Aude Bourliataux have built a small but impressive empire centred around Limoges, all under the “Collection Saint Martin” banner. La Chapelle Saint Martin in morning light As I noted last week, chef Giles is celebrating 40 years of holding a Michelin star - and he has spread his talents to several other ventures. La Table du Couvent is an atmospheric restaurant set in a 12th-century former monastery canteen in the heart of Limoges, specialising in wood-fired meats and 100% Limousin beef cooked in a giant open hearth. Then there’s Le 27, a stylish, contemporary bistro and art gallery space in Limoges that offers high-quality, inventive seasonal cooking at a more casual price point. The large conservatory at La Chapelle Saint Martin They even own a famous cheese shop in town - La Maison du Fromage - one of the oldest and most respected cheese shops in the region, featuring a stunning three-level maturing cellar. The couple also have two other classy places in which you can stay locally, and they even have a side passion for vintage travel called LocaPassion, allowing guests at La Chapelle to rent classic 2CVs or Land Rovers for their own exploration of the countryside. The Dordogne's Beautiful Villages One of the greatest pleasures of exploring the Dordogne is that there is never any need to hurry. Every few miles another beautiful village appears, inviting you to park the car, wander its narrow lanes and discover yet another corner of rural France that seems almost untouched by time. Many are built from the region's warm honey-coloured limestone, their shuttered houses tumbling down hillsides towards the river. Window boxes overflow with geraniums, ancient churches stand proudly at the centre of village life and tiny squares are shaded by plane trees beneath which locals linger over coffee or an unhurried lunch. Some villages, such as La Roque-Gageac and Beynac-et-Cazenac, cling dramatically to cliffs overlooking the Dordogne, their mediaeval streets winding steeply between centuries-old buildings. Others, including Trémolat and Limeuil, have a quieter, more understated charm, offering peaceful riverside walks and a glimpse of everyday life far removed from the bustle of modern cities. The delight is that every village has its own personality. One may be known for its bustling weekly market, another for a magnificent château, another for a Michelin-starred restaurant or simply for the timeless beauty of its setting. Together they create a region that seems almost designed for leisurely exploration, where every day's drive brings another unexpected discovery and another reason to fall just a little more in love with the Dordogne. Exploring the Monts de Blond and Montrol-Sénard Wonderful old buildings at Montrol-Sénard, a “village-musée” As we were only there a couple of nights, we took our hire car a few miles north to the Monts de Blond, a range of forested, granite-strewn hills. One of the highlights is Montrol-Sénard, a “village-musée” where time has effectively been frozen in the year 1900. We loved this quiet backwater and were delighted to stroll around the village entering the museum buildings quite freely without the need for any ticket or payment. A poignant, open-air museum focussing on the rural life of yesteryear, where you are free to wander through places like the old schoolhouse, the cobbler’s workshop, and traditional farm cottages, all perfectly preserved. Montrol-Sénard captures the quiet, vanished nostalgia of the Limousin before the rush of the modern world. While I’m not quite 126 years old yet, the place did remind me in some ways of the West Country of my youth. Quiet. Silent even. A deeply rural space that time has almost forgotten. I was spellbound. But then, I remained spellbound for the entire week. One of the free-to-enter museum buildings in Wonderful old buildings at Montrol-Sénard, Frequently Asked Questions About Visiting the Dordogne Where is the Dordogne? The Dordogne is a beautiful region in south-west France, known historically as the Périgord. It lies east of Bordeaux and north of Toulouse, with the River Dordogne winding through rolling countryside, mediaeval villages, vineyards and spectacular castles. Why is the Dordogne so popular? The Dordogne offers a wonderful blend of history, scenery and gastronomy. Visitors come for its fairytale villages, magnificent châteaux, prehistoric caves, excellent walking, river activities and some of the finest food and wine in France. It is a region that appeals equally to history lovers, food enthusiasts and anyone seeking a slower pace of life. When is the best time to visit the Dordogne? The Dordogne is delightful from spring through to autumn. May and June bring colourful gardens and pleasant temperatures, while September and early October are ideal for quieter sightseeing, harvest festivals and enjoying the region's famous food and wine. Summer is naturally the busiest season but also offers lively markets and long sunny evenings. What are the most beautiful villages in the Dordogne? Among the best-known are Beynac-et-Cazenac, La Roque-Gageac, Limeuil, Domme, Castelnaud-la-Chapelle and Trémolat. Each has its own character, from dramatic clifftop settings and mediaeval streets to peaceful riverside locations and bustling weekly markets. How many days should I spend in the Dordogne? To appreciate the region properly, allow at least five to seven days. That gives you time to explore several villages, visit a few castles, enjoy the local cuisine, browse traditional markets and relax beside the River Dordogne without feeling rushed. What is the Dordogne famous for? The Dordogne is renowned for its prehistoric caves, medieval castles, beautiful villages, duck dishes, foie gras, black truffles, walnuts and Bergerac wines. It is also one of France's finest destinations for scenic driving, walking and canoeing. Is the Dordogne good for food lovers? Absolutely. The region is one of France's gastronomic treasures. Traditional restaurants serve local specialities including duck confit, magret, foie gras, truffles, walnuts, artisan cheeses and seasonal produce, while Bergerac and Monbazillac produce excellent wines to accompany every meal. What are the best things to do in the Dordogne? Popular activities include visiting castles, exploring mediaeval villages, canoeing on the River Dordogne, discovering prehistoric cave art, wandering colourful food markets, enjoying vineyard tours, walking through the countryside and dining in both rustic inns and Michelin-starred restaurants. Is the Dordogne suitable for a touring holiday? Yes. The region is ideal for touring by car. Distances between attractions are relatively short, the countryside is wonderfully scenic and every day brings fresh discoveries, whether it's a hidden village, an impressive château or a riverside restaurant serving memorable local cuisine. Is the Dordogne expensive? The Dordogne caters for every budget. Alongside luxurious country house hotels and Michelin-starred restaurants, you'll find welcoming chambres d'hôtes, family-run hotels, village cafés and excellent-value restaurants serving authentic regional cooking. With a little planning, it is perfectly possible to enjoy the region without spending a fortune. Fact File: The Southwest France “Triple Crown” Le Vieux Logis Set in a beautifully restored former tobacco-drying barn and priory, this hotel is the epitome of Périgord charm.Contact: +33 5 53 22 80 06 www.vieux-logis.com Château de la Treyne Dramatic 14th-century fortress perched on a limestone cliff directly overlooking the Dordogne river.Contact: +33 5 65 27 60 60 www.chateaudelatreyne.com La Chapelle Saint Martin A 19th-century manor house set within a 40-acre park. Serves as the perfect gateway to the region.Contact: +33 5 55 75 80 17 www.chapellesaintmartin.com Travel Tip: Save Money on Airport Parking Martin uses Holiday Extras, market leader in airport parking, hotels, lounges, and transfers – in 2025 its customers saved an average of £200 per trip by booking their airport parking in advance. For more information, HolidayExtras.com or call 0800 316 5678. Cliff dwellings at La Roque-Gageac

If some grand hotels feel like a soaring operatic aria, Le Vieux Logis is a masterfully composed piece of chamber music. Located some 45 miles downstream from the high cliffs of the upper Dordogne, this beautiful estate offers a landscape of horizontal peace. The honey-coloured stone buildings—a former 16th-century priory and a collection of old tobacco-drying barns—seem to have grown directly out of the lush water meadows. The real delight of this place is found in the quiet details. It is the soothing sound of the ancient mill leat trickling through the grounds, the architectural precision of the boxwood gardens that resemble a green velvet tapestry in the sunshine, and the cosy interiors that smell faintly of woodsmoke and beeswax. Unlike retreats that sit dreamily tucked away from society, Le Vieux Logis is deeply integrated into the life of Trémolat, a small, living, working community. The boundary between the hotel’s parkland and the surrounding village is beautifully blurred. During our stay, an English couple who have lived in France for 15 years told me it was simply "one of the best small hotels in the country." The warmth of the place is a testament to its unique heritage. Years ago, the previous owner passed the property on to a small handful of core staff members. That decision injected an undeniable passion into the running of the hotel. Returning here felt like visiting family; the manageress, Estelle, welcomed me like an old friend, and her husband happens to be the exceptionally talented, Michelin-starred chef. The wooded hills and sweeping valleys around Trémolat make it one of the prettiest pockets in all of southwest France. It is an idyllic base for a slow-paced holiday—whether you fancy e-biking from one historic village to the next or spending an afternoon canoeing down the lazy loops of the river. Why Stay in Trémolat? There are villages that have become victims of their own success, their cobbled streets crowded with coach parties and souvenir shops. Trémolat has somehow managed to avoid that fate. It sits quietly beside a broad sweep of the River Dordogne, wrapped in lush water meadows and woodland, content simply to be itself. This is not a place to race around with a checklist. It is somewhere to slow down, order another coffee beneath the shade of a plane tree and watch village life unfold at a civilised French pace. Wander along narrow lanes lined with honey-coloured stone cottages, pause outside the ancient church or simply stroll to the river's edge where the Dordogne drifts lazily past. It is wonderfully peaceful. For anyone wanting to explore the Périgord, Trémolat is also remarkably well placed. Within an easy drive lie some of the Dordogne's greatest treasures – medieval market towns, fairy-tale châteaux, prehistoric caves and villages so beautiful they seem almost too perfect to be real. Sarlat, Bergerac, Beynac-et-Cazenac, Limeuil and La Roque-Gageac all make rewarding day trips before returning to the calm embrace of Trémolat as evening falls. The surrounding countryside is made for gentle adventures. Canoes glide along the Dordogne, cyclists follow quiet country lanes and walkers discover wooded paths, walnut groves and vineyards where little seems to have changed for generations. Every bend in the road reveals another picture-postcard scene – a Romanesque church, an ancient pigeon tower, a sleepy hamlet or a field glowing with sunflowers in high summer. And then there is the food. This is the heart of one of France's great gastronomic regions, where menus celebrate foie gras, duck, walnuts, truffles, strawberries and rich local wines. Village markets overflow with produce that looks as though it has been gathered only moments before, while family-run restaurants continue traditions that have been handed down through generations. What makes Trémolat especially appealing, though, is its authenticity. It has all the beauty for which the Dordogne is famous but none of the sense that it exists solely for visitors. It is a living village where people still greet one another in the street, where church bells mark the passing of the day and where time seems to move just a little more gently. After a day exploring castles, rivers and vineyards, there can be few finer places to return to than Le Vieux Logis, whose gardens and gracious hospitality seem to reflect the very spirit of Trémolat itself. It is the sort of place that quietly gets under your skin and, long after you have returned home, leaves you wondering when you might be able to come back. Travel Planner's Note Getting There & Staying Smart: The highly rural, unspoilt landscapes of central south-western France offer a perfect "staycation-style" getaway that is easily accessible. While flying into Limoges is incredibly efficient, these destinations are no more than a day's drive from the ferry terminal at Roscoff, making a classic road trip an exceptional option. When organising travel logistics, utilising Holiday Extras for airport parking, hotels, and lounges can significantly cut costs—with travellers saving an average of £200 per trip by booking their parking arrangements well in advance. Find out more at HolidayExtras.com or via 0800 316 5678. Frequently Asked Questions About Le Vieux Logis and Trémolat Where is Le Vieux Logis? Le Vieux Logis is located in the charming village of Trémolat in the Dordogne (Périgord) region of south-west France. Surrounded by peaceful water meadows and rolling countryside, it provides an ideal base for exploring some of France's prettiest villages, historic castles and renowned food markets. Is Le Vieux Logis a luxury hotel? Yes. Le Vieux Logis is regarded as one of the Dordogne's finest luxury country hotels. It combines elegant bedrooms, beautiful gardens, outstanding service and an acclaimed restaurant, all within a collection of lovingly restored stone buildings that retain the character of a traditional French village. What makes Trémolat special? Trémolat is one of those villages that has escaped mass tourism. Nestled beside the River Dordogne, it offers a wonderfully peaceful atmosphere, attractive stone houses, quiet lanes and easy access to many of the region's best attractions while remaining an authentic French village. What is there to see near Trémolat? The village is perfectly placed for exploring many of the Dordogne's highlights, including Sarlat-la-Canéda, Bergerac, Beynac-et-Cazenac, Limeuil, La Roque-Gageac and the prehistoric caves of the Vézère Valley. Visitors can also enjoy canoeing on the Dordogne, scenic walks, vineyards and colourful local markets. Is Le Vieux Logis good for a romantic break? Absolutely. The peaceful setting, beautiful gardens, fine dining and luxurious accommodation make Le Vieux Logis an excellent choice for couples celebrating a special occasion or simply looking for a relaxing escape in the French countryside. Does Le Vieux Logis have a good restaurant? Yes. Dining is one of the hotel's greatest attractions. The restaurant has earned an excellent reputation for showcasing the outstanding produce of the Dordogne, including duck, foie gras, walnuts, truffles and seasonal vegetables, all prepared with skill and imagination. When is the best time to visit the Dordogne? Spring and early summer bring colourful gardens, blossom and comfortable temperatures, while autumn is a wonderful season for food lovers, with truffles, mushrooms, walnuts and vineyards at their best. Summer offers long sunny days and lively village markets, although it is naturally the busiest time of year. How do I get to Trémolat? The nearest airport is Bergerac Dordogne Périgord Airport, which is around 40 minutes away by car. Trémolat is also easily reached by road from Bordeaux and Toulouse, making it an excellent destination for a touring holiday through south-west France. Is Trémolat a good base for exploring the Dordogne? Very much so. Its central location allows visitors to explore the river valleys, medieval villages, castles and gardens of the Dordogne before returning each evening to the peace and tranquillity of the countryside. Why should I stay at Le Vieux Logis instead of in a larger town? Choosing Le Vieux Logis allows you to experience the quieter, more authentic side of the Dordogne. Rather than staying in a busy tourist centre, you'll enjoy village life, exceptional food, beautiful surroundings and easy access to the region's major attractions without sacrificing comfort or luxury.

Somewhere off the northwest coast of Africa, lies the isle of Madeira - a gem that has been popular with British visitors for decades, or even centuries. The place is enchanting. Madeira is a remote isle where nature, culture, and history converge, offering a perfect blend of relaxation and adventure. Here's why a brief visit to Madeira might be just what your soul needs. Planning a Short Break to Madeira: Highlights & Itinerary If you are looking for a quick warm-weather getaway from the UK, Madeira is hard to beat. With direct flights from regional UK airports taking just over three hours, you can leave a chilly morning behind and be having lunch in Funchal by early afternoon. Whether you have 3 or 4 days to explore, here are the essential highlights to include in a short Madeira trip: Funchal Old Town & Farmers' Market: Explore the Mercado dos Lavradores, sample local tropical fruits, and wander streets lined with painted doors. Monte Cable Car & Botanical Gardens: Ride the cable car up from the Funchal waterfront for sweeping Atlantic views and lush garden walks. Coastal Walking & Levadas: Take a gentle hike along one of the island's famous irrigation canals, or stroll the cliffside promenade at Praia Formosa. Seafood & Poncha: Indulge in fresh black scabbardfish, sizzling garlic limpets, and a traditional glass of poncha in a local tavern. Day 1: Arrival and First Impressions As your plane descends toward the island - sometimes rather bumpily because the airport is somewhat renown for its sudden and sometimes violent cross-winds - the first thing that strikes you is the green landscape contrasted against the deep blue of the Atlantic Ocean. Madeira is often called the "Pearl of the Atlantic," and it's easy to see why. There are lush forests, terrifyingly high sea-cliffs, terraced vineyards, vertiginous farms and even one flat-ish area - a weird plain 5000 feet above sea-level - all surrounded by the ever-present ocean. Your first day on the island can be spent exploring the capital, Funchal, a charming city that perfectly encapsulates Madeira's unique blend of old-world charm and modern sophistication. Strolling through the cobblestone streets of the Old Town, you'll find colourful buildings adorned with azulejos, the traditional Portuguese tiles, and an array of local boutiques and cafés. The Mercado dos Lavradores, a lively market in the heart of Funchal, is a delight—here, you can sample exotic fruits like passionfruit and custard apples, or admire the vibrant display of tropical flowers. Find out about the delicious wine they make on Madeira by reading our special feature, here Ever heard of Madeira's sister island – Porto Santo? Find out more by clicking here As evening falls, head to the Marina for a sunset drink. Watching the sun dip below the horizon, casting a warm glow over the city's waterfront, is the perfect way to end your first day. Dinner in Funchal offers a chance to taste the island's cuisine, which is heavily influenced by the sea. Freshly caught black scabbard-fish, sometimes served with banana, is a local delicacy that shouldn't be missed. Day 2: Nature's Playground Madeira is a wonderful place for nature lovers, and even in a short visit, there's ample opportunity to immerse yourself in the island's stunning landscapes. Start your day with a visit to the Laurisilva Forest, a UNESCO World Heritage site. This ancient laurel forest is a living relic from the Tertiary period, offering a glimpse into a world that has remained largely unchanged for millions of years. Hiking through its mist-shrouded paths, with the sound of birdsong echoing through the trees, feels like stepping into a fairy tale. If you enjoy this post check out another feature we have on the beautiful island of Madeira For those seeking more of a thrill, Madeira's famous levadas—narrow irrigation channels that crisscross the island—offer a unique hiking experience. The Levada do Caldeirão Verde is particularly popular, leading you through tunnels and along steep cliffs, all the while offering breathtaking views of waterfalls and verdant valleys. If you'd prefer a more leisurely day, consider taking a scenic drive along the island's north coast. The winding roads lead you through picturesque villages like Santana, known for its traditional thatched houses, and Porto Moniz, where you can take a refreshing dip in the natural volcanic pools. Day 3: A Taste of Tradition No visit to Madeira would be complete without indulging in its rich cultural traditions. Start your final day with a cable car ride up to Monte, a hilltop village overlooking Funchal. The journey itself is spectacular, offering panoramic views of the city and the sea. At the top, you'll find the Monte Palace Tropical Garden, a lush oasis filled with exotic plants, koi ponds, and an impressive collection of African art. After exploring the gardens, make your way to the Church of Our Lady of Monte, where the island's patron saint, Nossa Senhora do Monte, is enshrined. The church is also the final resting place of Charles I, the last Emperor of Austria, adding a touch of historical intrigue to your visit. For a truly unique experience, take a toboggan ride back down to Funchal. This traditional mode of transport, which dates back to the 19th century, involves sitting in a wicker sled that is expertly steered down the steep streets by two "carreiros" in white uniforms and straw hats. It's a thrilling ride that will leave you with a lasting memory of Madeira's quirky charm. Before you leave the island, be sure to enjoy a glass of Madeira wine, the island's most famous export. Whether you prefer a dry Sercial or a sweet Malmsey, there's no better way to toast your brief but unforgettable stay on this extraordinary island. The Lasting Impression Madeira may be small in size, but it's a destination that leaves a big impression. Even a few days on this island are enough to fall under its spell. From the stunning natural landscapes to the rich cultural heritage, Madeira offers a unique blend of experiences that cater to every type of traveller. As you board your flight home, with memories of rugged cliffs, lush forests, and warm hospitality fresh in your mind, you might find yourself already dreaming of your return. Because once you've tasted the magic of Madeira, it's impossible not to want more. Where to Stay for a Short Getaway in Madeira Having a central or well-connected base makes a short break much smoother. Here are four standout accommodation options: The Vine Hotel (Funchal): A central 5-star hotel themed around winemaking, complete with a rooftop infinity pool and panoramic city views. Golden Residence Hotel (Funchal): Located on the cliffside near Praia Formosa beach, offering ocean views, coastal walking paths, and peaceful sunsets. Reid’s Palace, A Belmond Hotel (Funchal): Madeira's legendary cliffside luxury resort with historic charm, subtropical gardens, and oceanfront dining. Quinta da Casa Branca (Funchal): A boutique hotel set inside historic botanical gardens, ideal for a quiet, relaxing stay close to central Funchal. Frequently Asked Questions About a Short Break to Madeira Is 3 or 4 days enough time to visit Madeira? Yes, a short break of 3 to 4 days is plenty of time to experience Funchal, enjoy local seafood dining, ride the Monte cable car, and take a guided levada walk or jeep tour. Staying near Funchal keeps travel times short. What is the fastest way to get to Madeira from the UK? Direct flights operate regularly from airports like Bristol, London, and Manchester via carriers such as EasyJet and Jet2. The flight time is approximately 3 hours and 30 minutes. Where should I stay in Madeira for a quick weekend trip? For a short getaway, stay in or near central Funchal (such as The Vine Hotel or Reid's Palace) or along the Lido/Formosa coastline at the Golden Residence Hotel. This keeps you close to restaurants, tours, and airport transfers. Do I need to rent a car for a short stay in Madeira? No, for a 3 to 4-day trip, renting a car isn't strictly necessary. Funchal is very walkable, public buses and taxis are inexpensive, and guided day tours will pick you up directly from your hotel for island excursions.

The idea that one can leave one’s remote English home in the morning and be somewhere very foreign indeed by lunchtime will never cease to excite me, yet I know members of younger generations who shrug it off as being an ordinary fact of everyday life. Perhaps it’s because I can remember when such a thing was rare - the preserve of the rich. Now most people enjoy blasting abroad once in a while and we are fortunate to have a regional airport that makes it all the more easy to do. I recently left my Exmoor home early one rainy morning and I was enjoying a truly delicious dish of local seafood in a sunlit Funchal restaurant by lunchtime. If you enjoy this article why not check out Madeira Atlantic Festival That, to me, is amazing. The fact that there are now regular flights to this island from our own regional airport at Bristol is a wondrous thing. I can drive to the airport in an hour and leave the car in the new multi-storey car-park just a couple of minutes walk from the terminal. Then there’s the fact that modern aircraft have cut flying times so that Madeira is now only just over three hours away… Yes, many frown upon flying. But air-travel for the masses is one of the most extraordinary leaps forward we have achieved as a race and the fact that aeroplane manufacturers are constantly making improvements to make airliners more efficient should not be overlooked. Let’s face it, no one’s going to put this genie back in the bottle, so perhaps it’s a case of… if you can’t beat ‘em, join ‘em, and help the industry get better and greener. You might want to add the idea that, if you’re going to fly, you may as well go somewhere special. And places don’t come much more special than Madeira. If, as a travel writer with more than 40 years experience, I was to make a short-list of destinations which would most appeal to the readership of this particular newspaper, I would put Madeira very near the top. It is hugely scenic, it’s not that far away, it enjoys a truly enviable climate, it has a rather classy elegance, and it is safe. Just about everywhere you can go on the 34-mile-long and 14-wide island will have a stunning backdrop. Equally important, right out there in the Atlantic Ocean the weather tends to be temperate so that in winter you can have lovely warm days while in summer you will rarely be hit by the exhausting heatwaves suffered by many other southerly destinations. The food and drink is superb and there is nothing at all tacky about the island’s tourist offering. Lastly, the chances of being harassed on the street or even mugged are just about zero Even the island’s negative points can turn into plusses. For example, the fact that there are no wide sandy beaches means that you won’t find any of those mega-resorts that dominate many sunshine destinations. Such places are fine in their own way, but they do set a different tone. Longer airport queues (more queues everywhere, to be exact) and almost certainly a lot more frenetic activity and noise. If pounding music and all-day-full-English-breakfasts are your idea of holiday heaven, probably best avoid Madeira. However, if you like exploring beautiful places and your idea of scenery is more Himalayan than Holland, this is the place for you. The island boasts some of the best scenic walking to be found anywhere, thanks partly to a unique network of irrigation canals, known as levadas. These narrow waterways - many built centuries ago - snake around even the steepest slopes of the mountains and could be described as early wonders of the engineering world. The wonderful thing for walkers is that many are accompanied by paths or narrow walkways so that staff maintaining the all-important irrigation system and water supply can attend to the upkeep. As most levadas follow contours with hardly any kind of gradient being involved, it means you can enjoy lengthy level walks in the steepest landscapes imaginable. Unless you’re an old hand who has been to the island many times before, I’d recommend joining one of the guided levada walks. Some of the waterways can take you to fairly inaccessible and truly perpendicular places. And while you’re looking at the guided hikes on offer, you might also try one of the old “royal paths” - an extraordinary network of cobbled trails built by the decree of a 19th century Portuguese king who realised that his island subjects required an alternative transport system to the coastal boats which used to be the only link between communities. Although these cobbled routes were designed as simple pathways for villagers and their oxen-drawn sledges, they represent incredible feats of engineering. And many demand a good head for heights - like the one I did (the Caminho Real do Paúl do Mar) from a village perched almost vertically 1800 feet above a small harbour. The cobbled pathway zig-zags down an extremely steep gorge and the one-and-a-half hour hike gives you some idea of how the folk of this island must have lived before the invention of the internal combustion engine. If exploring steep natural scenery is not for you, then a perhaps a day strolling around Madeira’s elegant and charming capital is more the ticket. I’d certainly recommend it. Funchal is one of the loveliest cities I know. The place is both rich in history and good looks. Moreover, it enjoys that wonderful vibrancy which you sometimes get when a location is both home to a busy local population and throngs of admiring tourists. One definite must-see is the Mercado dos Lavradores, Funchal’s market, where vendors have stalls displaying vast arrays of fresh fruits, vegetables, and flowers as well as some of the finest seafood you will see anywhere. Head upstairs to a section where they sell Madeiran specialities and you have the chance of sampling a selection of island fruits and delicacies. It’s a great idea - you’re served a plateful of delicious local morsels for about £4 and you can try a tot of ‘poncha’, a traditional alcoholic drink made with aguardente de cana (distilled alcohol made from sugar cane), honey, sugar, and, traditionally, either orange juice or lemon juice - although some varieties include other fruit juices. It certainly packs a punch, but at the same time it’s refreshing and rather welcome in the heat of the day. Wander into the Old Town, not far from the market, you can explore an area of narrow, winding streets. Go early in the morning and the zone will be so quiet, you can almost feel what the city must have been like centuries ago when the island was regarded as one of the most remote places in the civilised world. The absence of crowds will also allow you to see how many of the buildings are adorned with painted doors and intricate tile-work. The doors are part of scheme designed to tell the stories of the city’s past. As morning turns to afternoon you will see a very different place indeed. Now the streets will be packed as the restaurateurs haul their tables out into the cobbled alleyways and waiters weave through the crowds bearing trays of the island’s celebrated cuisine. Which brings us to the cost of visiting Madeira. Being a Portuguese island, it is not particularly expensive, regardless of its classy elegance. A meal in Old Town will be around the same as in the UK, as will the booze. However, there are cheaper alternatives. Walk ten minutes back towards the heart of the city and up into the streets and squares around the historic city hall, and you will see restaurants advertising their menu of the day (menu do dia) for as little as 6 to 8 euros. That’s for a couple of courses - a single dish of the day might cost less than a fiver. Good local food… This is where the office workers and shop assistants come for lunch. If you enjoy this post see our feature on Madeira's little sister-island, Porto Santo I was fortunate enough to dine at several restaurants in Funchal, including at the historic and stylish Theo’s situated, in the heart of the city close to the waterfront. Here chef Júlio Pereira creates world-class dishes with a heavy island influence. I had amazing local shrimp rissoles as well as a delightful airy concoction described as cod pani-puri with a potato emulsion. I particularly enjoyed a seafood stew featuring local scarlet prawns and several varieties of fish. One evening we went to the stylish Quinta Magnólia restaurant (set in gardens near the heart of town) where I ate a magnificent fillet of the local black scabbard fish, served with the nicest tomato-based risotto imaginable. We also lunched at the new Basalto restaurant, perched on a cliff overlooking one of the swimming areas which, having narrow rocky beaches, Madeira specialises in. Here I enjoyed a leisurely lunch of limpets followed by a delightful ceviche, as well as a dish called ‘gaiado’, which is made from sun-dried bonito tuna. If you enjoy this post check out our feature on Madeira's cider On another day we travelled put to the amazing Sol Poente restaurant which is also perched on sea-cliffs, the time at the dramatically situated seaside resort known as Ponta do Sol. The seafood lunch we enjoyed there was one of the best of its kind I’ve had image, but I might be biased because the dramatic backdrop was so stunning I can’t imagine anyone would ever forget having had a meal there. Back in Funchal the cathedral offers a welcome refuge on a warm afternoon, with its unique blend of Gothic and Romanesque styles. We also ventured along the waterfront so that we could take the cable car ride up to Monte. At the top, you can enjoy the wonderful Monte Palace Gardens and, if you wished you could enjoy the famous wicker toboggan ride back down towards town. I’ve done that before so contented myself with enjoying the gardens before taking a cab to my hotel, the Golden Residence, located west of the main city. The hotel is perched on a cliff overlooking a wide bay containing a stony beach called Praia Formosa. There’s an amazing promenade for walkers, which runs for miles right along this section of coast. Anyway, one of the highlights of my stay was to have a barbecue dinner in the of the Golden Residence gardens. My table was perched close to the edge of the cliff and as the sun went down I could admire what must be one of the best dinner-time views imaginable, looking west to the vast cliffs of Cabo Girao. Truly stunning. And made even more magical by the thought that, that very morning I’d left a very cold and rainy Exmoor. Where to Stay in Madeira If you are planning a trip to the island, here are four top accommodation options ranging from cliffside oceanfront stays to historic garden quintas: Golden Residence Hotel (Funchal): Perched dramatically on a cliff overlooking Praia Formosa beach and Cabo Girão, offering incredible sunset views, cliffside dining, and easy access to the coastal promenade. Reid’s Palace, A Belmond Hotel (Funchal): Madeira's iconic luxury hotel set on subtropical cliffside gardens, boasting historic elegance and fine dining. The Vine Hotel (Funchal): A stylish 5-star design hotel in the heart of Funchal, built around a winemaking theme with a rooftop pool. Quinta da Casa Branca (Funchal): A boutique hotel nestled within lush botanical gardens, offering a peaceful sanctuary close to Funchal's city centre. Fact File Martin visited the island as a guest of Madeira Tourism - to find out more visitmadeira.com/en Direct flights to Madeira from the South West: Bristol – Madeira Operated by Easyjet Weekly frequencies – Mondays, Thursdays & Saturdays June 2024 until June 2025 Bristol – Madeira Operated by Jet2.com Weekly frequency – Mondays June 2024 until December 2025 Travel writer Martin Hesp hiking in Madeira Frequently Asked Questions About Visiting Madeira What is the best area to stay in Madeira for first-time visitors? Funchal, the island's capital, is the best base for first-time visitors. Staying in central Funchal or the Lido area gives you easy access to historic sites, the Mercado dos Lavradores, top seafood restaurants, and coastal promenades, as well as easy pickup points for guided levada walks. How do you get to Madeira from the South West of England? Direct flights run regularly from Bristol Airport (BRS) to Funchal (FNC) via airlines like EasyJet and Jet2. The flight time is just over three hours, making it an ideal warm-weather escape from the UK. What are the best hotel accommodations in Funchal and Madeira? Depending on your travel style, standout hotel stays include: Golden Residence Hotel: A cliffside hotel located west of central Funchal overlooking Praia Formosa beach, perfect for coastal sunset views. Reid’s Palace, A Belmond Hotel: The legendary cliffside luxury resort steeped in history, famed for its afternoon teas and oceanfront views. The Vine Hotel: A modern 5-star hotel in central Funchal themed around winemaking and luxury dining. Quinta da Casa Branca: A tranquil boutique hotel set within historic botanical gardens close to Funchal’s town centre. Do you need a car to explore Madeira? If you are staying in Funchal and plan to do organized levada walks or 4x4 jeep tours, you do not necessarily need a rental car. However, hiring a car gives you the freedom to explore remote coastal restaurants like Sol Poente in Ponta do Sol or dramatic high-altitude viewpoints like Cabo Girão at your own pace. Is Madeira expensive for food and drink? No, Madeira offers exceptional value for money. While fine-dining establishments and cliffside seafood spots serve world-class meals at reasonable prices, local taverns and cafes in central Funchal offer traditional "menu do dia" (lunch menus of the day) for as little as €6 to €8 per person.