Five Great Cornish Smuggler Hikes: Secret Coves, Wild Headlands and Coastal Inns
- Martin Hesp
- 3 hours ago
- 6 min read
If you want to understand the true spirit of Cornwall, you have to get out onto the narrow, windswept clifftops where the granite plunges into the Atlantic and the sea-caves yawn black beneath your boots.
For centuries, these lonely rocky shores and serpentine inlets were the playground of "free-traders," fishermen, wreckers, and adventurous souls slipping beneath the radar of the revenue men. Here are five of my favourite coastal hikes across West Penwith, the North Coast, and the Lizard—each one short enough to enjoy in an afternoon, but wild enough to blow away the cobwebs and plunge you headlong into classic Cornish smuggler territory.
1. Zennor Head: Mermaids, Granite Cliffs and Kernewek Lore
Perched on the high, shaggy coastal edge halfway between St Ives and St Just, Zennor feels like the very edge of the world. D.H. Lawrence fell entirely in love with the place, marvelling at the "infinite Atlantic, all peacock-mingled colours." It is also the home of the legendary Mermaid of Pendour Cove, who lured the golden-voiced choirboy Matthew Trewhella down into the deep waves.
This short, bracing figure-of-eight or lasso stroll takes you from the lonesome granite village out to the dramatic prow of Zennor Head, skirting the dizzy cliffs above Pendour before returning via the sheltered inland paths.
See a full account of a walk at Zennor here
Distance & Going: 2 miles; easy to moderate with rocky footpaths.
Map: OS Explorer 102 (Land’s End).
The Route: Park in Zennor village. Take the lane between the church and The Tinners Arms heading north-west towards the coast. Bear left towards the South West Coast Path to reach the headland, circle around the point taking in the vast sweep towards Porthzennor Cove, and pick up the return path through the bracken across the base of the headland back to the village lane.
Pub & Refreshments: The Tinners Arms, Zennor – A legendary 13th-century granite pub with low beams, roaring log fires, real ales, and proper hearty pub grub.
2. Portheras Cove: Secret Sands & The Lighthouse Keepers
Portheras is a jewel among coves—a near-perfect golden beach hidden between Pendeen and Morvah. It remains one of the region's best-kept secrets simply because it demands a proper walk to reach it.
Starting from the stark, white outpost of Pendeen Watch Lighthouse—where former keepers once stood long night watches over the treacherous offshore reefs—this hike winds along the rugged mining clifftops before dropping down to the tranquil sands of Portheras. The return takes you gently inland past weathered granite farmsteads.
Distance & Going: 2.5 miles; easy going along cliff paths and farm lanes (approx. 45–60 minutes).
Map: OS Explorer 102 (Land’s End).
The Route: Start at Pendeen Watch car park. Take the coast path east over Pendeen Cliff towards the old fishermen’s huts. Follow the path up over Portheras Cliff to the beach. To return, head up the lush valley behind the cove, take the zig-zag path up the right-hand slope to Portheras Farm, cross the small fields south-west to Calartha Farm, and walk the quiet tarmac lane back to the lighthouse.
Pub & Refreshments: The North Inn, Pendeen – A welcoming, unpretentious village pub renowned for traditional local ales, Cornish pasties, and Sunday roasts.
Read more about Portheras Cove and other fantastic local beaches here
3. Porthgwarra & Gwennap Head: Tunnels, Spume and Swashbuckle
Gwennap Head is everything Land’s End ought to be: untamed, authentic, and utterly windswept. Down in the hollow lies Porthgwarra, a tiny slipway cove straight out of a smuggling yarn. A hand-hewn tunnel pierces straight through the solid cliff to the shore, built for bringing up seaweed and gear, but evoking pure swashbuckle.
This magnificent circular route begins at the valley car park below the cliff-carved Minack Theatre, climbs out past the old cable station of Porthcurno, sweeps past Gwennap Head’s lookout, skirts the boiling seas of Nanjizal Bay, and returns through peaceful inland cauliflower fields.
Distance & Going: 7 miles; moderate coastal hiking with steep steps and uneven cliff paths.
Map: OS Explorer 102 (Land’s End).
The Route: Start at Porthcurno car park. Follow the Coast Path past the beach and up the cliff steps towards the Minack. Continue west along the high cliffs past Porthgwarra to the coastguard lookout on Gwennap Head. Follow the trail north-west above the sea caves of Nanjizal, then cut inland via Higher Bosistow and Arden-Sawah Farm, following rights-of-way past St Levan Church back to Porthcurno.
Pub & Refreshments: Minack Theatre Café (stunning cliff-hung views) or The Porthcurno Beach Café (light lunches and cream teas). For a pint on the way back, head to The Logan Rock Inn in nearby Treen.
See more about Porthgwarra by clicking here
4. Godrevy Point & The Knavocks: Wrecks, Reefs and Smugglers Cove
At the northern entrance to St Ives Bay lies Godrevy Point, looking out towards the lonely white hexagonal lighthouse perched on its island. These waters hide "The Stones"—a notoriously deadly reef that claimed dozens of ships, including the ill-fated steamer Nile in 1854.
This breezy, exhilarating walk starts by the dunes of Gwithian Towans, passes the mouth of the tin-tinted Red River, rounds the high headland where seals often haul out in the gullies below, and traces the heather-strewn downs of The Knavocks above Smugglers Cove before looping back across the fields.
Distance & Going: 2.5 miles; easy going along wide cliff trails and sandy paths.
Map: OS Explorer 102 (Land’s End).
The Route: Park at the National Trust car park near Godrevy/Gwithian Bridge. Cross the boardwalks and follow the coastal path north past Magow Rocks to Godrevy Point. Round the point with views of the island, heading east past the tumulus across The Knavocks (above Smugglers Cove). Turn inland along the farm track towards Higher Pencobben, descending the gentle lane back to the car park.
Pub & Refreshments: Godrevy Café – Tucked behind the dunes, serving excellent coffee, cakes, and hot lunches. For a proper pint, The Red River Inn in Gwithian village is just down the road. And the Barret Arms, Portreath.
READ ABOUT THE BARRET ARMS AND PORTREATH HERE
5. Cadgwith & Poltesco: Serpentine Crafts, Light and Smugglers' Creeks
Cadgwith is not so much a harbour as a breathtaking cleft in the Lizard rocks, where thatch-roofed cottages tumble down to a shingle cove crammed with brightly painted fishing boats, sea-worn crab pots, and ropes. It has an unmistakable air of timeless coastal life.
This circuit takes you up from the village to Ruan Minor, down into the lush, wooded depths of the Poltesco Valley to explore the ruined Victorian serpentine works at Carleon Cove, with an optional dip at sandy Kennack Sands before tracing the Coast Path back around Enys Head into Cadgwith.
Distance & Going: 4 miles; easy to moderate walking along quiet country lanes and undulating coastal path.
Map: OS Explorer 103 (The Lizard).
The Route: Start in Cadgwith Cove. Walk inland up the lane to Ruan Minor, turning down the narrow lane by the church into the Poltesco Valley. Explore Carleon Cove and the old watermill ruins, then head north along the coast path over Thorny Cliff to Kennack Sands (if you fancy a swim). Retrace your steps back to Carleon Cove and follow the South West Coast Path south round Polbream Point, Enys Head, and Kildown Point back into Cadgwith.
Pub & Refreshments: The Cadgwith Cove Inn – A genuine, 300-year-old traditional fishermen's pub renowned for fresh local crab, local ales, and spontaneous sea-shanty singing. For tea and cakes, drop into The Old Cellar House by the beach.
SEE MORE ABOUT THE HISTORIC CORNISH SERPENTINE INDUSTRY HERE
Frequently Asked Questions
Are these Cornish coastal walks dog-friendly?
Yes, all five routes follow public rights of way and the South West Coast Path. However, dogs must be kept on leads near steep cliff edges, around free-roaming livestock on the downs (such as The Knavocks), and near working farmsteads. Most of the featured pubs—including The Tinners Arms and The Cadgwith Cove Inn—welcome well-behaved dogs.
What footwear is needed for these smuggler walks?
Sturdy walking boots or trail shoes with good grip are strongly recommended. While the distances are mostly between 2 and 4 miles (with Porthgwarra at 7 miles), the paths involve granite steps, uneven rocks, exposed tree roots, and occasional muddy sections inland.
Which of these hikes is best for a quick circular walk?
Zennor Head (2 miles) and Portheras Cove (2.5 miles) are ideal if you are short on time. Both can be completed in about an hour, delivering rugged cliff-edge drama and sweeping sea views without a major time commitment.
Is there mobile phone reception along these remote coves?
Mobile signal can be very patchy down in deep valleys and coves such as Portheras, Pendour, and Porthgwarra. It is wise to check your route details or download offline maps before setting out.
