Lundy Island Walk: Walking Around Devon's Extraordinary Atlantic Island
Updated: Aug 23
I've been visiting Lundy for more than 20 years, both as a journalist and simply because I love the place. This was the first report I ever filed from the island...
Lundy Island Walk – At a Glance
Location: Bristol Channel, off the North Devon coast
Island: Around 3 miles long and ½ mile wide
Character: Rugged granite island, cliffs and open countryside
Best for: Walking, wildlife, seabirds, seals and spectacular views
Highlights: Old Light, Jenny's Cove, Earthquake, North End and Gannets' Rock
Food: Marisco Tavern
Difficulty: Moderate to strenuous depending on route and conditions
Dogs: Check current restrictions before travelling
When it comes to watching sunsets nothing - anywhere - beats the lantern plate in the glass crown of Old Light perched 100 feet above the granite crags of Lundy Island. You can see the flickering beams of 21 other lighthouses around the Atlantic Approaches, you can see the coasts of Wales, Somerset, Devon and Cornwall.
This is the most extraordinary room-with-a-view in England. Except, of course, it isn't England; it's Lundy and here, on Devonshire's answer to the Outer Hebrides, anything and everything is just that little bit different.
Walking Around Lundy Island
Most people who travel out to Lundy attempt the circumnavigation of this three mile long, half-mile wide, lump of rock located where the tide races of the Bristol Channel meet the Atlantic.
The first thing all visitors to Lundy must do after disembarking from the ship, is climb the steep track from the new landing jetty. Basically, Lundy is a high plateau surrounded by cliffs. This walk is a clockwise circumnavigation of the plateau.
South West Point and Goat Island
After visiting the small village at the top of the track for refreshments or supplies, walk past St Helena's Church and west to the cliffs of South West Point, and then turn north towards Goat Island. The cliffs are a bit on the crumbly side and anyone walking there should give the edge a respectful foot or two.
This is where we saw our first black rabbit - a breed indigenous to Lundy but at present threatened by the dreaded myxomatosis – we say dozens of little bodies on our way around the isle.
I've written more about my many visits to Lundy Island here...
Old Light, Ackland's Moor and the Golf Course
Walking north past Old Light on Beacon Hill, we cross Ackland's Moor which boasts the unlikely remains of a nine hole golf course as well as what is supposed to be – or have been - an airstrip.
Earthquake and Jenny's Cove
Earthquake is the strange name of the next corner of island, which we find after crossing the Quarter Wall. Lundy is divided into four by the three great walls placed at quarter intervals that cross from one side of the island to the other.
At Earthquake there are chasms that you can't see the bottom of – and they leave you with the unnerving impression that whatever tore the granite asunder around here must have had plenty of points on the Richter Scale. Apparently the fissures were caused by the Lisbon earthquake of 1755.
Earthquake is a good place from which to view the sea-bird colonies that cling to the cliffs around Jenny's Cove.
Puffins on Lundy Island
The name Lundy is Norse for Puffin Island, so it's a good job there are some of these hilarious birds left. In recent years their numbers have dropped alarmingly and no-one is quite sure why, but there still a few breeding pairs and so comic are their antics that you can watch them for hours.
Lundy is famous for its puffins, although sightings aren't guaranteed. The birds return to breed seasonally, while the island's cliffs also support other seabirds including guillemots and razorbills.
Walking around the steep slopes close to their burrows, the puffins look like pompous fellows off to some posh, old-fashioned London club. But then, suddenly, they hurl themselves off the cliff only to survive by flapping their stumpy wings like pistons. Their landings are just as alarming as they hurtle cliff-wards with only a last second application of air brakes and a downing of undercarriage to save them from oblivion.
Now we marched past Halfway Wall and Threequarter Wall, to the quiet wilderness of North End. On the way you may pass some of the island’s goats and see the wild Soay sheep which are Lundy's answer to antelope. Their rapidity is no doubt aided by the remarkable spring-like quality of the turf which makes the island a delightful place in which to walk.
North End, Gannets' Rock and Lundy's Wildlife
Rounding North End we begin our journey down the eastern side of the island. Soon we come to Gannets' Rock where you can, if you’re lucky, watch seals as they loll in the sun. Occasionally one will roll lazily into the sea and shoot off like a torpedo through the clear water, somehow belying its beached appearance of so much docile blubber.
Then it is south again, past the remains of the old gun battery called Brazen Ward. Once across Threequarter Wall, you can chose either to walk directly south along the island’s central track, or take the more interesting coast path.
This will take you down the east side of the island, past the historic quarries and through the rhododendron jungle where you might see a Sika deer or two. Eventually a steep path will take you back up to Lundy’s small settlement where you can enjoy a well earned pint at the Marisco Tavern.
I’ll put some more Lundy posts up - but in the meantime here is my old friend, island general manager Derek Green, raising the Lundy flag.
What Makes Lundy Island Such a Special Walk?
Lundy is only a few miles long, but walking across this extraordinary granite island feels like stepping into another world. There are no cars, few modern distractions and, wherever you look, the Atlantic is never far away.
The walk takes you through a remarkable mixture of landscapes – rugged cliffs, open moorland, old quarries, ancient buildings and narrow tracks – while the wildlife is just as memorable. Puffins and other seabirds occupy the cliffs, grey seals can be seen around the coast, while Lundy's famous goats and Soay sheep roam freely across the island.
Then there are the historic landmarks: the old lighthouse, Marisco Castle and the curious remains of Lundy's past. Add the sense of isolation, the extraordinary sea views and the chance to finish your walk at the Marisco Tavern, and Lundy becomes much more than simply a good day's walking. It is an adventure in miniature, just off the North Devon coast.
Frequently Asked Questions About Lundy Island
Is Lundy Island good for walking?
Yes. Walking is one of the best ways to experience Lundy, with footpaths crossing the island and routes taking in cliffs, historic sites, wildlife and spectacular sea views. The terrain can be uneven and some sections are steep, so suitable footwear is advisable.
How long does it take to walk around Lundy Island?
It depends on the route and how much time you spend looking at wildlife and landmarks. The National Trust's current circular wildlife walk is around 4 miles and takes about two hours, while longer routes around more of the island can take considerably longer.
Can you see puffins on Lundy Island?
Yes, although sightings aren't guaranteed. Puffins are one of Lundy's most famous inhabitants and return to the island to breed. The cliffs around Jenny's Cove are among the places where visitors may see them.
What other wildlife can you see on Lundy Island?
Lundy is home to a remarkable range of wildlife, including grey seals, goats, sika deer and numerous seabirds. Its surrounding waters are also rich in marine life.
What are the main things to see on Lundy Island?
Highlights include Old Light, Jenny's Cove, Earthquake, North End, the historic settlement, Marisco Castle and the island's spectacular cliffs and wildlife.
Where can you eat on Lundy Island?
The Marisco Tavern is the island's pub and an important stopping point for visitors. The National Trust also identifies it as the traditional pub serving informal food.
How do you get to Lundy Island?
Lundy is reached by boat from the North Devon coast, with services associated with Ilfracombe and Bideford. Because travel arrangements and operating dates can change, visitors should check the official Lundy information before travelling.
