There is an island far to the south west which has been supplying British tipplers with the good stuff for more centuries than most of the imported booze that we love. Shakespeare was waxing lyrical about the pleasures of the malmsey of Madeira and the delicious fortified wine was giving much pleasure long before that, given its early Greek origins. Throughout those long years the British have enjoyed a direct relationship with the Portuguese island which was a regular stopping-off point for British sailors, and there are old English families who still have a big influence in making and selling Madeira wine. But things are changing on this most beautiful of all the Atlantic islands. Tourism is holding a great deal more sway than it did even a dozen years ago, partly thanks to the fact that the ever popular destination now has regular cheap flights from local UK airports. I flew down for a few days recently to attend the beginning of a new wine festival - and therein lies a story… Because tourism is a double edged sword if ever there was one. It can have as many detrimental effects as benefits - but Madeira’s new wine festival reflects a positive side to the equation. Where to Stay for the Madeira Wine Festival Luxury & Wine Heritage: Belmond Reid’s Palace (Funchal) – The quintessential historic stay with cliffside ocean views, close to central festival tastings. Historic Quinta: Quinta da Casa Branca – Set amidst botanical gardens, perfect for a peaceful boutique stay. Vineyard & North Coast Base: Solar da Bica (São Vicente) – Ideal if you're exploring the northern wineries like Quinta do Barbusano. As everyone knows, traditional Madeira wine was - and is - fortified. The delicious and powerful stuff Shakespeare was drinking - and the Duke of Clarence was being drowned in - contains a strong rum-like spirit which effectively preserves the wine. Back in the days when fermented grape juice was a hit and miss affair created without the help of preservative agents such as sulphites, a long sea journey could spell the death of an ordinary wine - unless it was preserved with a whack of strong alcohol. It’s said the discovery of preserving wine happened by accident during long voyages to and from Portuguese colonies in the south of India. Whatever the story, English merchants working out of Madeira realised they’d found a way of creating a delicious and extremely stable product - and they stuck to their winning and profitable ways for centuries. And so for 100s of years the farmers of this mountainous isle produced grape juice for the big Madeira houses, keeping back just a little for their own personal consumption. I’m told the homemade table wines of yore were unpalatable without a touch of citrus and cane sugar. But, in recent times of cheap air travel, the burgeoning number of visitors to the island began demanding ordinary non-fortified, but drinkable, table wines with their meals. No problem - good wines could be shipped from mainland Portugal - but some local grape growers began to see a window of opportunity. It is still the case that most grapes grown on the island are sold into the big fortified wine operations, but a new brand of wine-makers like - Antonio Oliveira with his Barbusano label - have begun making delicious and interesting reds, whites and roses for the past dozen years. Hence, the new annual wine festival… Where to stay in Madeira - perfect hotels for wine-lovers These hotels cater directly to wine lovers, heritage seekers, and festival-goers: The Vine Hotel (Funchal): A stylish 5-star design hotel in central Funchal built around the theme of winemaking, complete with a rooftop infinity pool and grape-seed spa treatments. Ideal for central festival events. Reid’s Palace, A Belmond Hotel (Funchal): The legendary cliffside hotel steeped in British history (where Winston Churchill stayed). Perfect for readers seeking historic luxury. Quinta da Casa Branca (Funchal): A boutique 5-star hotel set inside a tranquil, historic botanical estate close to the city centre - appealing to food and garden enthusiasts. Hotel Quinta do Furão (São Jorge): Perched on the dramatic north coast cliffs amidst its own standing vineyard. Mentioning this bridges your section on Quinta do Barbusano and northern island drives. I’d never been to Madeira before and what I discovered was one of the most beautiful and friendliest tourists destinations I’ve called at in years. As these are the food and drink pages I won’t dwell upon the stunning scenery or the dizzying and incredible walks, but will concentrate on the Madeira wines and cuisine. It might seem odd, but the very first dish I was offered was a starter of limpets - a shellfish much scorned by us, but highly prized by the islanders. I could see why. They were a toothsome revelation. Fried in olive oil for just three or four minutes (with plenty of garlic) these little suckers were among the best shellfish I’ve tasted. I do wonder, though, if they might be a separate species from our own. Darker and flatter, they didn’t have the intense chewiness of our limpets. But perhaps best meal I had was cooked by winemaker Antonio Oliveira. We’d taken a jeep tour with a company called True Spirit and this included a visit to his amazing winery on the wild, damp north side of the island. After walking around the steep terraces perched 400 or 500 feet above the beach we enjoyed a wine-tasting - then sat down to a lunch of skewered beef cooked over vine wood. The skewers were bay tree branches as fat as your thumb - giant bays being common in the cloud forests above the vineyards. The beef was proper grass-fed stuff brought across from the Azores where they specialise in producing top notch meat. Take a look at our feature of the delicious cider in Madeira here Maybe it was the wine, or the excellent company - but that beef was the best carnivorous morsel I’ve eaten in a while. The experience was only matched by lunch the following day when, after a morning walking along one of Madeira’s famous high altitude leats (called lavadas), we descended to one of the most dramatically located beaches I have ever set foot on. To reach it we took a thousand foot cable car down the side of an immense cliff to a kind of heavenly organic garden where we were met by the enigmatic owner who showed us around his magical demesne. Mário Fernandes climbed some boulders to point out a rather straggly looking vine which he discovered in 1975. He called the Madeira Wine Institute in for a look and they identified it as an original Malvazia Candida planting from the Greek Island of Crete. They cloned it and Mário started replanting this historical one-off in the 1980s. He now uses the grapes from these ancient vines to make the nearest thing to the original malmsey that you can taste. We were lucky enough to be taken into the dark depths of a big old wine cellar by the rocky shore where Mario matures his malmseys and other early forms of tipple in old wooden barrels. And there in the fragrant gloom we tasted the liquid ambrosia, with classical music booming among the barrels and beams and the salty scents and sounds of the sea coming through an unglazed window. If you are exploring more of the archipelago, see our feature on Porto Santo by clicking here It was a magical experience. I could have stayed chatting with the charming Mario and his wife Isabel all day. Instead we eventually went to enjoy a first class lunch in his Restaurante Fajã dos Padres at the end of the beach under the 1000 foot sea cliffs, before ascending heavenwards in the scary cable car which climbs almost vertically into Madeira’s azure skies. We’re made to feel guilty about flying through such skies nowadays, but if I was limiting my airliner journeys I’d try to make Madeira and its food and wine an exception to the rule. Fine out more at www.madeirapromotionbeaureau.com Frequently Asked Questions About Visiting Madeira & The Wine Festival When is the Madeira Wine Festival held? The annual Madeira Wine Festival (Festa do Vinho) traditionally takes place in late summer, running from late August through mid-September to coincide with the grape harvest. Celebrations take place across Funchal's city centre, as well as in local vineyards across the island. What is the difference between traditional Madeira wine and new table wines? Traditional Madeira wine is a fortified wine, meaning it is blended with a neutral grape spirit to preserve it (a practice dating back centuries to survive long sea voyages). However, in recent years, local winemakers like Quinta do Barbusano have pioneered high-quality non-fortified table wines—producing crisp whites, dry rosés, and reds directly tailored for contemporary dining. Where is Quinta do Barbusano located, and can you visit? Quinta do Barbusano is located in São Vicente on the rugged northern coast of Madeira. Situated high on steep, terraced hillsides overlooking the valley, the estate offers guided vineyard tours, wine tastings, and traditional Madeiran lunches (such as beef espetada cooked over vine branches). Booking a tour or taking a 4x4 jeep excursion is the easiest way to visit. Do I need a car to explore Madeira's wineries and countryside? While central Funchal and its historic wine lodges are easily walkable, reaching rural wineries on the north coast, like those in São Vicente, requires transport. Taking an organized 4x4 jeep tour (such as True Spirit) allows you to enjoy the wine tastings safely, or you can hire a car to explore the high-altitude levadas and mountain passes at your own pace. What are the best places to stay in Madeira for wine and foodie trips? For city-centre access to the festival stalls, staying in Funchal at places like The Vine Hotel or the historic Reid’s Palace is ideal. If you prefer a tranquil base closer to the countryside and gardens, consider a traditional boutique estate such as Quinta da Casa Branca in Funchal or Hotel Quinta do Furão on the north coast.

What makes halloumi different from every other cheese? A chance encounter in rural Cyprus reveals the secret behind its famous squeak and resistance to melting, leading into an unforgettable journey through mountain villages, wineries, artisan food producers and authentic Cypriot culture. Sophia Vasileiou making halloumi Drop a slice of almost any cheese onto a hot grill, and within seconds you will be left with a smoky, ruined puddle of grease. But there are a handful of world cheeses which won’t melt at the mere sight of a naked flame. As foodies know, halloumi - Cyprus’s most famous culinary export - behaves like a gentleman under fire. Drop a slab into a pan or onto the coals, and instead of melting it forms a much-loved caramelised golden crust while retaining its firm, squeaky bite. I’d always wondered about the science behind this miracle. The secret, it turns out, lies in a cooking process where the freshly pressed curds are boiled for nearly an hour in their own whey, effectively ‘cooking’ the proteins into a permanent, heat-resistant matrix. This is the sort of thing I love about travelling. You can discover stuff you’ve never known before. I must have visited over 100 cheesemakers as a journalist so am well-versed in the basics - but when I saw an elderly lady boiling her fresh-made curds in an ancient bakery, high in the hills of Cyprus the other day, my jaw dropped. I’d never seen anyone boil fresh curds and in that moment I realised what it was that made halloumi so different from most other cheeses (with the exception of Indian paneer and Finnish leipäjuusto - see our panel to find out how this process works). It came as a revelation. I stood there in the sunshine feeling amazed and impressed. The village bakery at Letymbou above Paphos Meeting Traditional Halloumi Makers in Rural Cyprus Sophia Vasileiou Sophia Vasileiou and her husband Andreas have been making bread, cheese and other basic Cypriot delights, in the village of Letymbou above Paphos, for decades, but some years ago they turned their knowledge and skills into something of a cultural attraction. Originally, it wasn’t a formal business at all - Sophia and Andreas were simply making food and baking bread in their front yard for their own family. Then one day, two passing tourists wandered up the lane, drawn in by the rich aroma of the wood-fired oven (or fourno). Being naturally hospitable, Sophia invited them into the courtyard, fed them, and showed them how the bread and cheese were made. The visitors were so enchanted they told others, and that encounter slowly transformed the Vasileiou home into the living museum and traditional tavern it is today. It’s an authentic bakery, making bread and cheese for the surrounding villages, but it also acts as a showcase for visitors. All very fascinating, delicious and educational it is too. How Cyprus Is Reinventing Tourism Through Agritourism In a recent post I described how I was staying in Paphos at the newly revamped Asimina Suites Hotel - a five-star, all-suite property that has just undergone a significant revamp. The hotel is owned by the Constantinou Brothers, a well known family-run outfit, founded by the family of that name in the late 1970s - and anyone staying at their four hotels has the opportunity to join a selection of cultural tours which will show them more of the fascinating island of Cyprus. I am not talking about 60-seater buses and tourists descending upon a place and ruining the very thing that attracted them in the first place. The Paphos Regional Board of Tourism and the Cyprus Ministry of Tourism have been actively pushing back against the old “sun, sea, and massive tour bus” stereotype and have thrown funding and support into developing an ecosystem of small-group, culture-based, and agritourism initiatives. An old lady in Letymbou was keen to talk with the few touriss who come past her home Schemes like the government-backed Heartland of Legends have developed routes and independent agritourism networks. The purpose is to connect visitors directly with local micro-producers. The initiative is designed around small-footprint authentic encounters rather than commercial mass-tourism landmarks - and for that I give it ten-out-ten. The Real Taste of Halloumi: Fresh from the Whey So there I was, standing in Sophia’s courtyard, watching a lady whose hands moved with the effortless rhythm of 50 years’ practice. She was pulling massive loaves of village bread from the belly of a fourno. The aroma - yeasty, laced with the sweet smoke of burning olive wood - was enough to make a travelling journalist feel very hungry indeed. But, as I say, Sophia wasn’t finished. While the bread cooled, she coaxed a steaming cauldron of goat’s milk into the miracle that is fresh halloumi. Plucked warm from the whey, dusted with dried mint, and sandwiched into a thick slice of that steaming bread, it was a revelation. Forget the rubbery, salt-logged halloumi blocks we buy in plastic wrappers in Blighty. Real, raw-milk version, eaten at the source, has a gentle milky bounce and a rich, complex depth that somehow echoes rugged hillsides and mountain herbs. Cyprus Wine Country: Hidden Wineries in the Mountains Marios Kolios, of the Kolios Winery This was just our opening salvo of a gastronomic pilgrimage into the Cypriot interior. Next, our little band of food-obsessed writers zig-zagged higher into the hills to eventually reach the mountain village of Statos-Ayios Fotios. Here, perched on a ridge 3,000 feet above sea level, sits the Kolios Winery - an imposing structure built of local stone by Marios Kolios, a countryman who treats his vines with the quiet reverence of an Orthodox priest. Marios ushered us into the subterranean belly of the mountain. Outside, the Mediterranean sun burned down onto the rocky hillsides, but down in the cellar everything was cool and damp. That’s partly because a natural mountain spring trickles down through the rock, keeping the place at a constant, perfect chill without a single watt of air conditioning. We tasted his Persefoni, a white wine crafted from the local Xynisteri grape that has a hint of citrus and mountain air. But it was his Ayios Photios red that stole the moment - made from Maratheftiko, an ancient, temperamental Cypriot variety that requires wild cross-pollination. It was deep, spicy, somehow rugged - a bit like the landscape itself. Lunch with “The Master” of Amargeti Costas Papachristoforou By now, after hours in the hills, we were in need of lunch so we headed for the village of Amargeti and a remarkable taverna. However, no matter how hungry I was, I could never do justice to the massive luncheon spread laid-on for us by the culinary tour-de-force that is Costas Papachristoforou. To the locals, and the wandering journalists he feeds, he is known simply and affectionately as Mastros - a Cypriot Greek title for The Master or The Boss. Which is a nod to his jack-of-all-trades artisan brilliance. While Mastros commands front-of-house, his wife Constantina runs the kitchen, turning out wonderful family recipes passed down through generations. A mezze feast began to cover our table, plate after plate. There seemed to be no end to it - no tiny, precious portions here, but a generous, rolling tide of local flavour… Home-cured olives, sizzling wild boar sausages, and slow-cooked lamb that fell apart on your fork. We soon learned that Mastros is a man who cannot sit still. Beneath the panoramic dining terrace lies his backyard production empire. He doesn’t just run a taverna - he operates the Mastros Winery and Mastros Microbrewery on-site. Perhaps the crowning glory of his backyard production line was a dark, viscous liquid he held up like a trophy… A pure carob syrup, known historically as “Cyprus Black Gold”. This unrefined nectar, pressed from local carob pods, has a deep, smoky sweetness akin to molasses but with a distinct, chocolatey undertone. Drizzled over fresh curd cheese, it struck me that I was somehow tasting the story of this ancient island civilisation. Mastros also happens to be village mayor. After our delicious and truly Herculean lunch, he took us on an impromptu detour through Amargeti, showing off the local community museum and church with the fierce, protective pride of a true countryman. The Cyprus Most Tourists Never See This is the Cyprus so many holiday-makers miss. But it’s not one locked behind a press pass, or reserved for those in the know- it is an active, vibrant, small-scale network waiting up in the hills for anyone willing to ditch the beach resort and discover it. As we finally rolled back down the Diarizos Valley toward our hotel, the sun was dipping into the Mediterranean. Cyprus may attract legions for its beaches, but the real heartbeat of this island is found up in the hills, bubbling away in iron pots, baking in clay ovens, and aging quietly in stone cellars. FACT FILE Why Halloumi Doesn’t Melt: The Science Behind the Squeak No Acidification - Unlike most cheeses, no acid or bacterial culture is used. The pH remains high, keeping calcium bonds strong. The Boiling Phase -Curds are boiled in whey for 40–60 minutes, permanently locking proteins into a rigid structure. Because those proteins are already fully cooked, subsequent heat cannot melt them. Instead, halloumi crisps and caramelises. TRAVEL INFORMATION Martin was a guest of Constantinou Bros Asimina Suites Hotel and the Paphos Tourist Board. Prices from £1,399 per person sharing a Junior Suite on B&B basis at Asimina Suites Hotel for seven nights in June including luggage allowance and private transfers via Jet2Holidays. Hotel: Asimina Suites, Paphos Parking: Martin uses Holiday Extras for airport parking and lounges. Frequently Asked Questions About Visiting Rural Paphos & Authentic Halloumi Why doesn't halloumi melt when grilled or fried? Unlike most cheeses, traditional halloumi undergoes no acidification step during production. The freshly pressed curds are boiled directly in hot whey for 40 to 60 minutes. This high-temperature process pre-cooks the milk proteins, locking them into a heat-resistant matrix that allows the cheese to caramelise on the outside without melting into a puddle. Where can you see traditional halloumi being made in Cyprus? In the village of Letymbou, located in the hills above Paphos, Sophia and Andreas Vasileiou demonstrate traditional halloumi making and bread baking in their restored courtyard bakery. Visitors can watch fresh curds being shaped and boiled, then sample warm halloumi straight from the whey. What are the best village food and wine tours near Paphos? Letymbou: Artisan bread and cheese-making demonstrations at the Vasileiou family courtyard. Statos-Ayios Fotios: High-altitude wine tasting at Kolios Winery, home to local Xynisteri (Persefoni) and Maratheftiko (Ayios Photios) wines. Amargeti: Authentic Cypriot mezze lunches, microbrewery beers, and pure carob syrup ("Cyprus Black Gold") at Mastros Taverna. How do you get to Cyprus's agritourism mountain villages? Many small-group food, wine, and culture tours depart directly from hotels in Paphos, such as the Asimina Suites Hotel. Initiatives backed by the Cyprus Ministry of Tourism—like the Heartland of Legends network—connect travellers with small-scale local producers across the interior.

Child of the Fjord: A Return to the Rugged Magic of Boscastle The mouth of the inlet at Boscastle When you’re a child, some places hit deep. I don’t know why this may be, but it does seem to be the case that some locations can have a profound effect so strong that you remember them many, many years later. Boscastle is one such place for me. I distinctly recall being stunned by its wild and rugged beauty as a boy. If we ever went to Cornwall on holiday, I was forever pestering my parents about a return visit to this strange, fjord-like indentation on the north coast. Perhaps that word had something to do with it. I’d read about the drama of Norwegian fjords and rather liked the idea that there were places in this world where the ocean managed to creep deep inside a bold and rocky hinterland. Looking into the inlet at Boscastle Child of the Fjord: Returning to the Rugged Magic of Boscastle The north Cornish hills are big, but they ain’t mountains—however, they are pretty steep and, where they meet the sea, they are rugged in the extreme. The steep winding valley created by the Valency stream really does allow the ocean to come tip-toeing into this landmass. Where Saltwater and Rock Meet: The Magic of the Valency Valley There’s something intimate and indescribably romantic that oozes from Boscastle’s craggy scenery. Being well disguised, it’s Cornwall’s most secret port. A giant rock stack called the Meachard protects the village from its old adversary, the Atlantic Ocean – but there’s nothing to protect the place inland save for pastoral loveliness. Of all the rivers of the West Country, the Valency is among the shortest and arguably the sweetest. It is born up on Trevilla Down, a bare hillside not far from Otterham Station, no more than half a dozen miles from Boscastle. Flowing west, the river dives deeper and deeper into a warm and welcoming wood under the hamlet of Trevilla, where it is joined by a tributary coming down from near Tresparrett. Even on a normal summer’s day, the Valency gets into full rushing gushing stride as it swings west with all the gusto of a minor mountain stream. The saltwater is like an ambassador from some different and distant land. It allows the onlooker to experience the feeling of being deep within the security of a landmass while at the same time being confronted by the frenetic dance of a vast ocean. Unless you take one of the little paths either side of the harbour, you cannot see that ocean—its wide and wild horizon is hidden from view. Take a look at our South West Coast Path guide here It is a secret place where saltwater and rock play. When there’s been a storm at sea, the blow-hole below Penally Point at the mouth of the fjord puffs great arcs of spray like a dragon. I loved it as a boy, and still feel profoundly attracted to it now. Because not much has changed at Boscastle, and I doubt it ever will. The Wellington, Boscastle The Wellington: A Staging Post for the Centuries One large and permanent feature that’s been around for centuries is the magnificent old coaching inn. The Wellington has been making guests welcome in Cornwall since the 16th Century. Long before the motor car conquered the Atlantic Highway, it was a vital staging post for weary travellers braving the windswept journey across those north Cornish hills. The pub is down at the heart of the harbour village, perfectly placed for walks along the South West Coast Path. Recently purchased by St Austell Brewery, the pub now features 14 beautifully refurbished rooms and three apartments—including turret rooms that make the most of the establishment’s castle-like features. “The refurbishment takes inspiration from the pub’s woodland and coastal surroundings, introducing dusky greens, warm reds, and burnt yellows to enhance the cosy charm,” says a St Austell Brewery spokesperson. As has been the case with Hesp Out West visits to other refurbished St Austell properties, The Wellington was no exception when it came to the impressive extent of the work. They have gone the extra mile in retaining that essential "old coaching inn atmosphere." The bar area at The Wellie, Boscastle One member of the friendly staff told me the turret room my wife and I were staying in used to be frequented by a certain Thomas Hardy. I could readily believe it. The great writer spent significant time in the area while working as a young architect on local churches, including St Juliot’s, which he saved from dilapidation in 1870. Walking in the Footsteps of Thomas Hardy and Emma Gifford For a while, a small lane flirts with the river—the very lane that takes visitors to the famous church of St Juliot, near the hamlet of Hennett. On the evening of March 3rd, 1870, a young architect named Thomas Hardy arrived in this most lovely of places. He was met at the rectory by Emma Gifford, the rector’s sister-in-law. Hardy was here to help restore the church, but between writing novels and poems, he found time to embark on a legendary holiday romance with Emma, whom he later married. The romance was hardly surprising—it is a magical setting. Pure Cornwall. Above are the great bare downs, below the soft intimacy of the river valley and beyond – always beyond – the booming, ultra-marine hint of salt and sea. A walker stands in the debris of the Valency Valley after the infanous Boscastle Flood The lovers often walked down the Valency Valley together, a journey Emma recorded vividly in her diary: “Often we walked to Boscastle harbour down the beautiful Valency Valley where we had to jump over a low wall by rough steps or get through a narrow pathway, to come out on great wide spaces suddenly, with a sparkling little brook going the same way, in which we once lost a picnic-tumbler, and there it is to this day no doubt between two boulders.” Perhaps, after the heavy rains of recent years, that forgotten tumbler has at last gone into the vast maw of the sea. Staying at The Wellington Hotel completes the literary connection—Hardy himself was a regular guest in its turret rooms during his time working on St Juliot's. Valency Valley near St Juliot's Church, just after the Boscastle Flood I’ve often tried to imagine the evening on March 3rd of that year when the young poet arrived at the local rectory to be met by Emma Gifford. The seeds of romance were sown in this remote spot, even if their eventual marriage did not stand the test of time. The Wellington’s early guest book is a “who’s who” of Victorian heavyweights. Not only did Hardy stay, but King Edward VII and Sir Henry Irving were also said to have found solace here. Planning Your Visit We had a marvellous dinner at "The Wellie," followed by a really good breakfast. Our night in the turret room promoted a warm, nostalgic feeling of times-past. For more information, visit: wellingtonhotelboscastle.com Current Deal: St Austell Brewery is currently offering Cosy Breaks – 33% off for stays up to 22nd March 2026. Use code: COSY2026 when booking by 22nd February. Boscastle Harbour Sidebar: A Brief History of Boscastle’s Secret Harbour If you’ve got the only navigable inlet along 40 miles of coast, you are always going to be in business. Boscastle made hay for centuries through maritime commerce. In their booklet Brief History of Boscastle, Rod and Anne Knight note that the harbour area was once a hub for fish cellars, smithies, and spirit stores. Ancient Roots: Iron Age settlers and Romans have both left their mark here, with over 100 Roman coins found locally. The Quays: Squire Sir Richard Grenville built the inner quay in 1584. The northern pier was later damaged by a WWII sea mine in 1947 and eventually rebuilt by the National Trust. The 2004 Flood: While Atlantic storms are common, the "Miracle of Boscastle" occurred in August 2004 when the Valency stream rose after seven-and-a-half inches of rain fell in a few hours. I was one of the first journalists on the scene at dawn the next day, awed by the devastation but relieved that no one perished. CHECK OUT OUR CORNISH PUB WALKS ARTICLE HERE Looking down Boscastle Harbour Frequently Asked Questions About Visiting Boscastle Is Boscastle worth visiting? Yes. Boscastle is one of the few natural harbour fjords on the North Cornwall coast. It offers dramatic cliffside walking along the South West Coast Path, rich maritime history, independent shops, and characterful historic inns like The Wellington. Who stayed at The Wellington Hotel in Boscastle? The Wellington Hotel boasts a famous guest list dating back to the 19th century, including author Thomas Hardy, King Edward VII, and renowned Victorian actor Sir Henry Irving. Can you walk along the South West Coast Path from Boscastle? Yes, Boscastle is directly on the South West Coast Path. Popular walks include the route south towards Tintagel Castle or inland along the wooded Valency Valley towards St Juliot's Church. Is there parking at The Wellington Hotel in Boscastle? The Wellington Hotel offers guest parking facilities, and there is also a main National Trust car park located near the centre of the village by the harbour stream. Where is the Valency Valley in Cornwall? The Valency Valley is located on the North Cornwall coast near Boscastle. The Valency River flows six miles from Trevilla Down near Otterham, cutting through wooded countryside before entering the sea at Boscastle's natural fjord harbour. What is the connection between Thomas Hardy and Boscastle? Thomas Hardy visited Boscastle in March 1870 as a young architect sent to restore St Juliot’s Church. During his stay at The Wellington Hotel, he met and fell in love with Emma Gifford. Their courtship along the Valency Valley inspired his novel *A Pair of Blue Eyes* and his famous *Poems of 1912–13*. Can you walk through the Valency Valley to St Juliot’s Church? Yes, a gentle footpath runs inland along the banks of the Valency River directly from Boscastle Harbour through lush woodland to St Juliot’s Church, making it one of the most famous literary walks in Cornwall. The Valency Valley ofter the Boscastle Flood

Devon offers an entirely different walking environment than almost anywhere else in the West Country. Whether you are scrambling up steep red-sandstone coombes, navigating ancient smuggler tracks, or strolling beneath dark forest canopies, here are five of my favourite walks across the county. CHECK OUT OUR DEVON WALKS PAGE BY CLICKING HERE 1. Ashclyst Forest — Central Devon From our earliest age we are made aware of big dark forests – they are fairytale places where big bad wolves live and where we humans get horribly lost. Novice hikers might be tempted to take a bag full of white pebbles with them, like Hansel and Gretel. Far be it from us to suggest readers deposit any kind of object into one of our environmentally immaculate forests. Instead, let’s go to Ashclyst Forest – one of the largest tracts of ancient woodland in the region – situated not in the back end of ancient beyond but just a short witch’s broom-ride from the M5. It is rich in waymarked walks and it should be impossible to get lost. Ashclyst is not only easy to reach, but hugely enjoyable - having been well preserved by its owner the National Trust. There are several car parks but the main one, situated at OS grid ref SY 001995, has an interpretation board showing the various way-marked trails which vary from 1.5 miles to a total of seven miles in length. The board also gives a brief potted history of the forest, which is interesting because you get the distinct feeling that up here - out of earshot of the modern world - this is how much of England used to be. We recommend the Trust’s Butterfly Walk - a leisurely stroll along sunken lanes and woodland rides and through broad-leaved and coniferous woodland, good for fritillary butterflies, white admiral and other butterflies. It can be a bit muddy in winter on this clay ground - for directions see the interpretation board or visit the National Trust Killerton website. Distance: 4 miles Time: 3.5 hours Difficulty: 6/10 (when wet) Image Alt Text: Sunlight filtering through ancient trees on the Butterfly Walk in Ashclyst Forest Devon 2. Branscombe West — East Devon Coast Branscombe is one of the most beautiful villages to be found in East Devon. Tucked away in its own valley, you wouldn’t think there was a village in the area at all if you were viewing the coast from out at sea. Which is probably the reason why, centuries ago, Branscombe became a busy centre for smuggling. Looking down on Branscombe, east Devon One of the best basic hikes you can do in the area is from Branscombe Mouth west on the coast path to Weston Mouth and back along the beach. It’s advisable to check the tides first, and be warned: walking along the shingle on the return leg is heavy going. So is the beginning of this walk. Climbing the Alpine-like slope that stretches up from the seaside car park at Branscombe is a puff. It is a slope of the house-roof variety. Only when you get to the top do you realise that the southerly hill which protects the village of Branscombe is, in fact, one of those sham eminences - a bit like a street frontage on a movie set. The slope ascends steeply up through the beech hanger from the village - and then ends abruptly in a sea-facing abyss. The South West Coast Path follows this ridge as it threads its way west, past various old quarries, towards a place called Berry Camp. As you stroll along here you can see the curious geographical layout and begin to realise why Branscombe became one of the smuggling capitals of the south coast. Beach huts hidden in the cliffs near Branscombe, What looks like a remote and isolated stretch of coast is in fact just a few hundred yards (as the seagull flies) from the village which is hidden and protected by this curiously positioned ridge. Most coastal hills in the region follow river valleys from inland as the stream flows towards the sea - this one runs directly parallel with the coast and so hides the valley behind it. Eventually the path takes you down to Weston Mouth. Much of the territory covered on the route is, by-the-way, owned by the National Trust - including this latter chunk down the steep contours into Weston Combe. If the tide is out you can head back along the beach. It's a bit of a trek, made all the more arduous by the fact the shingle is of the small and rolling variety. The actual distance is about two miles, but it feels more like five by the time you get back to Branscombe Mouth. Distance: 4 miles Time: 3.5 hours Difficulty: 6/10 Image Alt Text: Looking down at Branscombe Mouth and the steep coastal ridge on the East Devon coast path CHECK OUT OUR SOUTH WEST COAST PATH WALKS PAGE BY CLICKING HERE 3. Heddon’s Mouth to Woody Bay Circular — Exmoor Coast This walk always features in my Top Ten of Wonderful West Country Walks. The perpendicular plod which meanders from Heddon's Mouth to Woody Bay and back again would certainly be up there among the best-sellers. It boasts views by the vista-load, history by the ancient, dusty, book-full and enough solitude to wither a lonesome pine. The first part of this hike is down Heddon's Mouth Cleave - which really is one of the steepest, deepest valleys to be found anywhere in the West Country. It runs straight out of the depths of Exmoor down to the sea, and the fact that there's an excellent hostelry deep at the bottom of the great gulch is almost thrown into insignificance by the grandeur of it all. You can park near the pub in the small car park opposite the National Trust visitor centre which will tell you all about the remarkable terrain. Then, walk past the inn (you will need refreshment on your return) and follow the road around the bottom of the valley towards Trentishoe. After a quarter of a mile you will see the footpath leading to the beach on your right. It's a riverside mile down to the sea - one of the most dramatic miles in England. In 1827 a local farmer called Jim Hoyle was caught with no fewer than £1,180's worth of brandy hidden under his stable floors. Customs and Excise confiscated the 262 tubs of booze, but lucky Jim escaped through a back window. And now we cross the river to find the coast path which heads in an easterly direction - albeit vertically - out of the valley and along the coast on a section of the right of way which is not for those who suffer vertigo. Eventually there's a climb through the woods towards the upper section of the scattered community of Woody Bay. Heddon's Mouth beach Many of the paths around here were put in place by James Hannington, a local curate, and after that an African bishop - who found himself 'rusticated' from Oxford and forced to learn the duties of his calling at nearby Martinhoe. You'll see this rugged little hamlet across a few fields later, but you won't see poor old Hannington who was eventually done to death by irreligious natives deep in the Dark Continent. Eventually we reach the old carriageway near Woody Bay, where we turn right back towards Heddon's Mouth to enjoy the breathtaking views that sweep across the Bristol Channel. The dramatic headlands which punctuate Exmoor's vertical coast fall over themselves in a queue as they enthusiastically line up to show just who's best at being jagged and dangerous. There's Crock Point, Duty Point, Hollerday Hill above Lynton and Lynmouth and, of course the North Devon Foreland with its lighthouse blinking intermittently above the grey sea. Looking up Heddon's Cleave, North Devon Along the way we pass the remains of the Roman signal-station in which Italian soldiers must have once frozen on guard-duty. After that the track turns into the massive Cleave and takes you dramatically back to Hunter's Inn. Distance: 6 miles Time: 4 hours Difficulty: 6/10 Sea cliffs near Heddon's Mouth 4. Bonehill Down and Honeybag Tor — Dartmoor We chose the walk over Bell Tor, Chinkwell Tor and around Honeybag Tor because it is surrounded by features which, even in a thick fog, should see you safely back to your car. Which sounds a bit dramatic, but this meteorological shutdown is not unknown on the heights of Dartmoor. Walker at Honeybag Tor, Dartmoor We parked at Hemsworthy Gate, on the junction of the Haytor and Ashburton roads as they join in their bid to reach Widecombe, so that we could take the gentle stroll up to Top Tor and enjoy the rolling, unfoggy, views which stretch right across the South Hams. From Top Tor we walked due north, descending to cross the Widecombe road and reach Bonehill Rocks. This is as splendid a knot of granite as you’ll find anywhere on the moors and is very popular, given the close vicinity of several small car parks. Here we are on the big north-south ridge which rises to the east of Widecombe and which guards its moorland vale from the higher land of Dartmoor’s main south-easterly bastion, centred on Haytor. From Bonehill Rocks we descended to the north west (crossing the Bonehill lane) and, avoiding a bog, climbed Bell Tor. From there it was north-west again to Chinkwell Tor. Here you get a fantastic aerial view that allows you to look straight down the valley where the East Weburn River is making its way south to join its sister stream. Looking down the valley from Honeybag Tor, Dartmoor From Chinkwell Tor, it’s north again down over the saddle and up to Honeybag Tor, which marks the end of the ridge. You have a number of options for the return route. We retraced our steps down to the dip of the saddle where a big man-made rut slices the hill. A green path runs west down the edge of the rut into the vale, and this we followed until we gained the woodlands that fringe the North Bovey lane. Here, on the upper edge of the woods, a broad stone track follows the contours south under Chinkwell Tor, eventually climbing above the fields to regain Bonehill Down. Now we continued due south along the contours, re-crossing the main Widecombe-Haytor road to reach the Shovel Stone. Then it’s a matter of following a southerly arc around Top Tor - taking in Hollow Tor, Pil Tor and Foale’s Arrishes – before eventually returning to your vehicle. The two hour walk will give you some of the best views on Dartmoor. Distance: 4.5 miles Time: 3 hours Difficulty: 4/10 5. Otterton River and Coast — East Devon This is one of the region’s truly classic circular hiking routes. There's a serene and beautiful river, an estuary teeming with bird-life, terracotta coloured sea-cliffs affording panoramic views of the South Coast and a picture-perfect English village just to round things off. The River Otter meets the sea in South Devon The circular walk that takes you down river from Otterton to the sea at Budleigh Salterton and then north-east along the coast to Ladram Bay, before returning across the hill, is as consummate a perambulation as any you'll find on our well endowed peninsula. Where the River Otter meets the sea at Budleigh Salterton The village of Otterton would win plenty of points in a Comely Communities of England Contest but, as you'll be seeing more of the place later, turn your back on the delights of its pretty main-street and cross the river to find the footpath which follows the Otter as it heads south through a series of classic water-meadows on its way to the sea. Eventually we cross the little bridge which leads to South Farm, and see how the waterway - which spoke of Tales By the Riverbank and Ratty and Moley and Toad - suddenly manages to transform itself into something marine, salty and wild. Ladram Bay, Now we walk down the east side of the estuary along a path which takes us just above a copse. Beyond this are excellent views of the saltings and the sea which can be enjoyed from the bird-hide. Now we are on the coast path section which climbs the cliff edges east past Danger Point, Black Head, Brandy Head, Crab Ledge and Chiselbury Bay. You can see the red cliffs stretching east to Sidmouth, beyond which they stop abruptly to allow the chalk to take over. The path does a gentle roller-coaster number along the very edge of the fields, and always in front of you is High Peak. It has the biggest red cliffs of all and towers above the great curve of the coast with its Alpine look-alike peak covered in conifers. Between you and it is Ladram Bay with its attractive shingle beach, its big bold rock stacks and its holiday camp. We can avoid the latter by following the bridleway up past Monks Wall and from there it was a short walk over the hill back down into Otterton. Distance: 6 miles Time: 3 hours Difficulty: 5/10 Image Alt Text: The River Otter estuary winding past water meadows toward the sea near Otterton East Devon Ladram Bay with High Peak just behind, Devon Frequently Asked Questions About Walking in Devon What should I wear or pack for walking on Dartmoor and the Exmoor Coast? The Westcountry weather can turn from blistering sunshine to a dense maritime shutdown in a matter of minutes. Even on shorter rambles like Bonehill Down or Heddon's Mouth, always pack a dependable windproof waterproof layer, sturdy ankle-supporting boots for rugged granite paths and rolling shingle, and plenty of water. If you are venturing up onto the high moor, taking a proper Ordnance Survey paper map alongside your phone is always wise. Are these Devon walks suitable for dogs? Yes, all five routes are wonderful for four-legged companions, but sensible precautions are essential. On coastal routes like Branscombe West and Heddon's Mouth, keep dogs strictly on leads near steep cliff edges and unfenced drops. On Dartmoor and Exmoor, keep them under close control around grazing ponies, sheep, and ground-nesting birds. When is the best time of year to do these walks? Every season brings its own magic to Devon. Spring and early summer bring spectacular displays of wildflowers, sea pinks along the cliffs, and fritillary butterflies in Ashclyst Forest. Autumn turns the river valleys and ancient woodlands into rich golden canopy walks, while winter offers crisp, dramatic coastal views—though you should expect muddy tracks underfoot in clay areas. Where can I park and find refreshments along these routes? All five walks feature convenient parking at or near the start, and each route passes or finishes near an excellent West Country hostelry or traditional tearoom. Whether it's a well-earned pint at the Hunters Inn after tackling Heddon's Mouth, or a local pit-stop in Otterton village, you won't be far from good food and drink. Walkers on the coast at Ladram Bay

For the traveller willing to trade the resort bustle for a tank of petrol, the drive north to Polis Chrysochous is a revelation. Leaving the familiar confines of Paphos behind, the road climbs through steep, sun-baked hills before dropping toward a coastline that feels remarkably untouched by the hand of modern development. The Polis Bay area is the island’s quiet secret—uncluttered, breezy, and calm. This is a side of Cyprus where the locals retain the sleepy, authentic rhythm of a traditional Mediterranean life. Just along the coastal road lies Latchi, a small, sleepy harbour where the catch of the day goes straight from the wooden fishing boats to the open-air grill. Region: Region of Paphos, Akamas Peninsula & Troodos Mountains Best Time for Walking/Coolcations: Spring (March–May) & Autumn (October–November) Highlights: Akamas coastal paths, mountain villages, ancient mosaic sites, seafood tavernas Getting There: Direct flights to Paphos International Airport (PFO) Exploring the Wild Akamas Peninsula: Cyprus's Secret Coast The true appeal of this north-western corner is the Akamas Peninsula, a rugged, wind-swept wilderness where the paved roads eventually give way to dust, rock, and the sharp scent of juniper. It is a beautiful promontory that boasts both mountain and sea, offering a 10-mile hike that takes the agile enthusiast right around its craggy, spectacular demesne. IF you are enjoying this article check out many of our other accounts of global wanderings HERE An easier way to taste its delights is to take the road to the edge of the coast to the Baths of Aphrodite. Here, cool freshwater springs meet the sea in a beautiful pool set deep in the rocks of a shaded, wooded glade. From this legendary spot, you can join Aphrodite’s Trail and the neighbouring Adonis Trail, both of which introduce you to the picturesque peninsula and the nearby Smigies Nature Trail, which offers panoramic views across the great, shimmering curve of the bay. On a recent journey, we pushed even further, driving almost all the way to the UN border with the Turkish part of Cyprus to a tiny, isolated harbour in the Pomos area. It was an absolute gem, boasting a fantastic bar full of locals where we were the only foreign tourists in sight. Nearby, we stumbled upon a hidden coastal beauty spot known as the Dragon’s Cave. Standing there, looking out at the empty sea, it was impossible to imagine that anyone from the crowds of Paphos had ever been near the place. Memories of a Winter Wonderland: 35 Years Ago Finding these quiet, untamed corners of the island brought back a flood of memories from a trip I took to Cyprus nearly 35 years ago. It was February half-term, and back in the UK, it was cold, grey, and raining. Desperate for a bit of sun and warmth, we booked a last-minute deal to Paphos. But Cyprus has a way of surprising you. On one of our day trips, we found ourselves waist-deep in snow. Our breath was blooming in misty plumes and our fingers and toes were stiff with cold as we threw snowballs at each other among the soughing pines. Playing in the snow wasn't quite the winter holiday we had in mind when flying four hours south to escape the British winter, but it didn't matter—we were ecstatic. The reason we could be so joyful in its chilly grasp was the sheer geography of this remarkable island: we knew that within the hour, we could drive down the mountains and be basking on a warm beach. At 6,404 feet, Mount Olympus is the highest part of Cyprus, even hosting a ski resort. We had taken the high road threading its way right across the Troodos Mountains on our way back from Nicosia. The kids couldn't believe their eyes as our hire car suddenly entered a winter wonderland of massive drifts and alpine pistes. Hill climb towards the Troodos Mountain A Divided Capital and the Ancient Wilds That journey had taken us to Nicosia, which—following the fall of the Berlin Wall—stood as the world's only remaining divided city. Even then, 27 years after the political situation blew up in 1974, the division was stark. We dragged the kids up the viewing deck of the Woolworth building to peer through powerful binoculars into Turkish Cyprus. We could make out the great, eerie swathe of no-man's land that cuts the city in half—a rat and snake-filled strip of frozen time where washing had hung rotting on lines for decades and a car showroom sat filled with the "latest" 1974 models gathering dust. You could walk right up to the sandbag barrier guarded by Greek troops and peer through rifle slits to see the Turkish soldiers gazing back just 150 metres away. Away from that claustrophobic twilight zone, however, the vast, wild interior of Cyprus called us back. This, to me, is what the island is truly about: its extensive wilderness coasts, its mountains, massive forests, cool streams, and alpine meadows. It is a place where eagles soar, and where the rare, elusive mouflon—a goat-come-deer indigenous to Cyprus—lurks in the loneliest highland coombes. We braved 20 miles of dirt tracks high into the Tillyrian wilderness to visit a magical glade called Cedar Valley. Turning a corner into a steep valley, we found ourselves surrounded by Cedrus brevifolia, an aromatic cedar unique to the island, in a setting that looked more like a prehistoric film set than anything Hollywood could construe. The Timeless Appeal of the Cypriot Escape Even the food back then was an adventure of epic proportions. I still vividly remember a gargantuan lunch in a remote mountain village, where bearded priests sat in the shade and watched as we devoured a seemingly endless meze production line: stuffed aubergines, lamb in mint, pork in coriander, fried halloumi, squid, and that somewhat dubious Cypriot speciality—the slippery spud boiled in oil. It took the four of us three hours to consume, costing less than £20 including drinks. Decades have passed since that winter holiday. Some of the island's major resorts have gone development-mad in their endeavours to lure the tourists, and the planners have had to fight hard to keep the historic charm of Paphos intact. Yet, as my recent travels prove, if you are willing to leave the resort bustle behind, the secret north-west of Cyprus remains exactly as it was. It is still an island where you can stand in a lonely mountain forest or a hidden coastal cave, completely untamed by modern development, and find a slice of timeless Mediterranean magic. Cyprus FACT FILE Martin and fellow members of the British Guild of Travel Writers were guests of Constantinou Bros Asimina Suites Hotel and the Paphos Tourist Board. Prices from only £1399 per person for 2 people sharing a Junior Suite Land View on bed and breakfast in the Asimina Suites Hotel, for Gatwick departures for 7 nights in June and includes 22 Kg luggage allowance and private transfers - available through Jet2Holidays www.jet2holidays.com Website: https://www.Asimina-CBH.com/ UK sales office 01924 380 160 The Constantinou Bros Hotel Collection also includes Athena Royal Beach Hotel, Pioneer Beach Hotel and the family friendly Athena Beach Hotel, all located along the Paphos shoreline. Flights to Paphos are available from a wide choice of UK airports with Jet2. Jet2 has a new flight from Gatwick and regular flights from many regional airports. Frequently Asked Questions: Visiting Wild Cyprus & The Akamas Peninsula What is the best time of year to explore the Troodos Mountains and Akamas Coast? Spring (March to May) is ideal for wild coastal walking, wild flowers, and pleasant temperatures before the midsummer heat, while early spring often offers the contrast of snow on Troodos peaks with sunny days on the coast. Do you need a 4x4 to explore the Akamas Peninsula? While main roads to Latchi and the Baths of Aphrodite are paved, accessing deep tracks within the Akamas National Park requires a 4x4, boat excursion from Latchi harbour, or walking along marked coastal trails. Where should you stay when exploring Western Cyprus? Paphos serves as a fantastic coastal base with easy access to cultural sites and luxury hotels, while Latchi and Polis offer quieter village access to the wild northern coast of the peninsula.

Cornwall is famous for its vast, bustling stretches of golden sand, but for those willing to venture just a little off the beaten track, the Duchy reveals a far quieter, more magical side. Tucked beneath towering granite cliffs and reached via ancient packhorse trails or secret cliff paths lie dozens of untamed inlets, hidden coves, and pristine sandy bays that remain blissfully peaceful even at the height of summer. Having explored the West Country littoral for decades, I’ve compiled this guide to highlight the very best secret beaches along the Cornish coast—from the wild, oceanic coves of West Penwith to the quiet, turquoise inlets of the North Coast. Whether you are looking for crystal-clear waters for wild swimming, quiet rock pools to explore with family, or simply a secluded spot to escape the summer crowds, here is our ultimate guide to finding Cornwall's hidden seaside gems. 1. St Martin’s: The Magical White Sands of Scilly For an unforgettable seaside escape, travel 28 miles west of Land’s End to the breathtaking shores of St Martin’s in the Isles of Scilly. This northern isle features stunning white sand so exceptionally fine that historic writers once exported it to use as ink-blotting dust. The coastal paths trace from Higher Town Quay past the peaceful pastures of Little Arthur Farm, guiding walkers along a beautiful landscape where turquoise waves meet rolling downs. The path eventually reveals the striking, 45-foot red-and-white striped Daymark, erected in the 17th century, offering wide views over the uneasy Santamana Ledges. READ MORE ABOUT ST MARTINS HERE While Bread and Cheese Cove and Wine Cove provide lovely introductions, the magnificent sweep of Great Bay claims the crown as one of the finest beaches in the South West. Beneath this peaceful beauty lies an unexpected past: during the Cold War, the back end of the island was a top-secret site for experimental torpedo trials. Local islanders watched fast Wyvern aircraft roar overhead at 100 feet, dropping experimental missiles that bounced like porpoises across the waves. Today, the island has returned to what it does best, offering a perfect sanctuary of quiet solitude and untamed beauty. The St Martins Daymark from the air, isles of Scilly 2. Tregardock Strand: Geese, Slate Trails, and Wild Mussels Tregardock Strand is a hidden gem tucked along the wild north Cornish coast, located just a few miles south of Tintagel. High above the beach, the landscape is defined by the rolling fields of Tregardock Farm, where cereal crops have replaced old farming ventures. Tregardock beach This dramatic stretch of coast holds deep historical connections; in 1826, a vessel named the Narrow Escape came to grief here alongside 20 other ships involved in the historic Delabole slate trade. To reach this secret beach, travellers navigate down the narrow coastal lanes from Treligga to the farm, where a public footpath begins beside an old barn. The track snakes downward through a shallow valley, passing historic slate water butts that serve as quiet monuments to the area's industrial past. IF YOU ENJOY THIS ARTICLE CHECK OUT OUR SOUTH WEST COAST PATH PAGE The path joins the South West Coast Path before descending directly onto the sand, shadowed by 'The Mountain'—an impressive eminence commanding the cliffs. At the beach's southern end lies the beautifully named Trerubies Cove. On cold winter days, the rock pools here are densely covered in pristine, wild mussels, offering a perfect harvest for adventurous walkers seeking a true taste of Cornwall’s wild shores. TO READ ABOUT A SPECIAL WALK AROUND TREGARDOCK CLICK HERE Tregardock beach late in the afternoon 3. Strangles Beach: Hidden Footpaths, Nudists, and Fallen Shoes Plunging nearly 700 feet down an incredibly steep cliff path, Strangles Beach is a spectacular, one-and-a-half-mile stretch of sand and shingle located between Boscastle and Crackington Haven. The path down to Strangles This isolated haven is famous for its eccentric folklore; following the infamous Boscastle Flood of 2004, hundreds of washed-out shoes floated north and washed ashore here, prompting hardy hikers to hang the flotsam along a wire cliff fence. Shoes from the Boscastle flood above Strangles beach Managed carefully by the National Trust and Trevigue Farm, the rugged cliffs are grazed by a herd of wild goats brought from Lynton’s Valley of the Rocks to preserve the delicate habitat. This grazing is vital for maintaining the open grassland required by rare Mediterranean ants, which share a complex ecological relationship with the endangered Large Blue butterfly. The rock strata down on Strangles beach The dramatic headland of Cambeak keeps watch over the shore, while rare choughs and swift peregrine falcons soar through the skies. At the beach's edge, past the formidable Samphire Rock, lies Little Strand—a secluded annexe that serves as an unofficial nudist beach. Its challenging access ensures that Strangles remains delightfully empty, even in the height of summer. READ A FULL DESCRIPTION OF STRANGLES BEACH HERE Looking down on Strangles beach, 4. Church Cove: The Ancient Beachside Temple of the Lizard Perched on the brooding western edge of the Lizard Peninsula, Church Cove is a wild, windswept horseshoe bay rich in coastal romance and marine history. In the depths of winter, the Atlantic swells transform this intimate cove into a raging cauldron of spume, but in quieter times, it reveals pure, clean sands. FOR MORE WALKS IN CORNWALL SEE OUR SPECIAL CORNISH PAGE Church Cove The absolute heart of the cove is St Winwaloe’s Church, a fascinating medieval chapel dedicated to a Breton saint and famously recognised as the only Christian temple in Cornwall built directly on a beach. At high tide, the sea laps just feet from its ancient door, and its small tower stands completely separate from the main building, nestled tight against the steep inner bank. CHECK OUT OUR CHURCH COVE HIKE HERE The Church at Church Cove The surrounding landscape is preserved by the National Trust, which successfully banned vehicles from parking on the sands to restore the fragile dune system with marram grass. The cove’s dramatic past is steeped in legends of lost wealth; the King of Portugal’s treasure ship, the St Anthony, sank here in 1527, and a gold-laden Spanish vessel was wrecked nearby in the 1780s, leaving a timeless aura of mystery. Church Cove looking south 5. Lansallos Cove: Smugglers' Trails and Double Coves Tucked quietly away from the busy summer crowds of nearby Polperro and Fowey, Lansallos Cove is a textbook example of a secret South Cornish sanctuary. The approach to the beach is spectacular, following a deep, ancient pathway that winds from a lonely hamlet down through a lush valley where the Reed Water tumbles onto the shore. READ ABOUT A WALK AROUND LANSALLOS HERE Lansallos Cove, South Cornwall This valley was once home to a historic watermill, now remembered through local ghost stories of a cold-hearted miller and his wife. The beach features a distinctive cutting carved directly into the solid shale rock; though often mistaken for a dedicated smuggler's route, it was originally built by local farmers to haul wagons of sand and seaweed up to their fields. However, smuggling was a massive part of daily life here, famously highlighted in 1825 when local miners discovered a hidden cache of brandy on the shore and sneaked it underground into the Wheal Howell Mine. The surrounding 1,500 acres of unploughed cliff grassland are protected as an SSSI, providing a rich haven for rare Dartford warblers, peregrines, and vibrant butterflies. Walking east along the coast path leads directly to East Coombe, offering a perfect second cove for rock-pooling. The coast at Lansallos Cove 6. Portheras Cove: Aircraft Views, Seals, and Shipwreck Legacies Portheras Cove is the true hidden treasure of West Penwith, nestled completely out of sight half a mile east of the Pendeen Watch lighthouse. Free of signposts and largely omitted from mainstream tourism guides, this pristine beach remains an undisturbed local secret. Portheras Cove, West Cornwall For many years, the cove was entirely closed to the public after the 454-ton coaster Alacrity ran aground on Friday the 13th in September 1963; when Royal Marines blew up the vessel, sharp metal shards littered the sand until an exhaustive environmental clean-up restored the beach in 2004. Today, the cove offers flawless golden sands and exceptionally clear deep water, making it a favourite haunt for resident grey seals. Travellers can park at the lighthouse and follow a scenic coastal track down to Boat Cove, a charming, time-worn outpost where local handline fishermen store their gear in rustic huts with rusting corrugated iron roofs and barnacle-encrusted winches. From there, a narrow path winds over a low cliff, depositing walkers onto the tranquil, isolated sands of Portheras—a perfect coastal frontier where human society ends and the wild sea takes over. A walker admires Portheras Cove, 7. Newquay Harbour: The Secret Amphitheatre Behind the Surf While Newquay is universally celebrated for its world-class surf, bustling streets, and vibrant nightlife, it also harbours a tranquil, traditional soul hidden right in plain sight. Tucked beneath the busy town centre is Newquay Harbour, a beautiful natural amphitheatre that locals consider one of the best-kept secrets on Cornwall's north coast. Newquay Harbour, Cornwall This working port remains the domain of craggy, friendly local lobster fishermen who have spent their lives working these coastal waters. A fascinating feature of the harbour is its historic underground tunnel, originally excavated through the rock by St Dennis miners in 1849 to serve the old Newquay Harbour Railway. The beach at Newquay Harbour when the tide is coming in Today, the tracks are long gone, and the tunnel is used by the Newquay Gig Rowing Club to protect its historic racing boats. Local folklore fills the harbor area; elders recall mini-concerts where a piano was hauled into a cavern on nearby Porth Island for its perfect acoustics. Just beyond the bustling main streets lie the peaceful Trenance Gardens, a beautiful boating lake built entirely as a community project by locals, and the quiet, lesser-visited tidal waters of The Gannel estuary. READ ABOUT A WALK JUST THE OTHER SIDE OF THE GANNEL ESTUARY HERE Newquay beaches 8. Whitsand Bay: The Great Four-Mile Sweep of the South Coast While many of the coves in this series are tiny, rocky finger-holds on the edge of the Atlantic, Whitsand Bay offers something completely different: a monumental, dramatic four-mile sweep of sand running along the Rame Peninsula in South East Cornwall. Portwrinkle in Whitsand Bay, south east Cornwall Getting down to the sand here is an adventure in itself, requiring a steep scramble down cliff paths that wind through a unique, eclectic community of rustic holiday chalets and beach huts clinging precariously to the sheer slopes. The beaches of Whitsand Bay, south east Cornwall Whitsand is a place of massive horizons, open big-sea views, and powerful surf. It’s a beach that demands respect—the rip-tides here are notorious—but on a clear day when the tide is out, walking across those miles of shining, damp sand makes you feel like you've reached the very edge of the earth. READ MORE ABOUT WHITSAND BAY HERE Looking west out of Whitsand Bay, 9. The Industrial Serpentine Haven of Kennack Sands Tucked away on the eastern flank of the Lizard Peninsula, Carleon Cove forms the quieter, deeply historic western half of what most modern tourists simply know as Kennack Sands. What makes Carleon truly fascinating is its stark post-industrial romance. A walker in Carleon Cove Long before it became a spot for sunbathers, it was a buzzing hive of human endeavour. In the 19th century, it was the site of the Carleon Cove Serpentine Works, where local craftsmen used water power from the streaming valley to cut and polish the Lizard's famous, dark-green serpentine rock into decorative pillars and ornaments for grand buildings across Victorian Britain. READ ABOUT A SPECIAL WALK TO CARLEON COVE HERE The old mill and serpentine workings at Carleon Cove, Today, the old mill ruins are quietly melting back into the marshy valley, leaving a peaceful, sheltered beach where the freshwater stream cuts through the dark rocks to meet the tide—a perfect monument to how nature gracefully reclaims our industrial past. Freshwater stream flows into Carleon Cove, Lizard, Cornwall Frequently Asked Questions 1. Which of these secret beaches has the finest sand? The undisputed crown goes to St Martin’s in the Isles of Scilly. Its pristine white sand is exceptionally fine and light—so much so that historic writers once exported the grains to use as an ink-blotting medium before blotting paper was invented. 2. Are these hidden Cornish coves safe for swimming? While coves like Portheras offer exceptionally clear, deep water, Cornwall's wild Atlantic coast demands absolute respect. Many of these hidden spots do not have lifeguard cover, and locations like Church Cove on the Lizard can experience ferocious maelstroms, pounding waves, and heavy spume during westerly blows. Always check local tide times and sea conditions before entering the water. 3. Can I harvest wild shellfish on these beaches? At remote beaches like Tregardock Strand, the intertidal rocks are heavily covered in wild mussels. Because there are no local sewage outfalls, the water is incredibly clean, making them popular for foraging. However, always harvest safely, ensure you are not collecting during a toxic algal bloom, and exercise proper care when purging and preparing wild shellfish. 4. Why are there old structures and cuttings on these "unspoilt" beaches? Many of Cornwall's secret seasides are beautifully post-industrial. Cuttings in the solid shale at Lansallos, for instance, were carved so Victorian farmers could haul wagons of sand and seaweed up to their fields. Elsewhere, old ruins represent the remains of slate quarrying, lead mining, or the famous 19th-century serpentine stone works at Carleon Bay. How do I safely reach Cornwall’s hidden coves? Many secluded coves involve steep cliff paths, uneven granite steps, or tidal awareness. Always check local tide times before setting out, wear sturdy walking footwear, and stick to marked South West Coast Path routes. What are the best secret beaches in West Cornwall? Remote gems like Portheras Cove near Pendeen, Nanjizal near Land’s End, and Porth Joke near Crantock offer pristine sands and quiet waters away from main resort crowds.

There is something about a Cornish coastal path that demands a celebratory pint at the finish line. Over decades of exploring these cliffs for the Western Morning News and Western Daily Press, I’ve found that the best days out are almost always 'circular'—getting you back to the car without a logistics headache—and invariably involve some kind of watering hole, in my case preferably an historic inn. In this collection, I’ve rounded up five of my favourite loops that capture the spirit of Cornwall, from the sheltered creeks of the Helford to the rugged mysticism of West Penwith. Waterside at Flushing Best Circular Pub Walks in Cornwall 1. The Classic Fowey & Hall Walk Loop Distance: 4 Miles | Difficulty: Moderate | Terrain: Woodland paths, creek shores & two ferry crossings The Pub: The Lugger Inn (Polruan) or The King of Prussia (Fowey) A contender for the absolute best short walk in the West Country. This legendary four-mile circuit includes two scenic ferry rides across the estuary, deep ancient woodlands, sweeping views down Pont Pill, and a dramatic glimpse of Lantic Bay. The Route: From Fowey town across to Bodinnick on the ferry, along the historic Hall Walk track above Pont Pill, down into Polruan, and back across the harbour to Fowey. The Pub: Enjoy a well-earned pint at The Lugger Inn right on the quay at Polruan before catching the ferry home. Fowey from the water 2. The Mawnan Smith & Helford Peninsula Distance: 4.5 Miles | Difficulty: Easy-Moderate | Terrain: Sheltered coastal path, subtropical gardens & wooded coves The Pub: The Red Lion (Mawnan Smith) or The Ferry Boat Inn (Helford Passage) This "lasso-shaped" loop explores the tranquil, almost Mediterranean coastline where the Helford River meets Falmouth Bay. It passes the historic WWII embarkation point at Polgwidden Cove and skirts the edges of Glendurgan and Trebah gardens. The Route: Starting at Mawnan Church, rounding the headland at Rosemullion Head, following the creek edge, and looping inland via quiet lanes. The Pub: Stop for a waterside drink at The Ferry Boat Inn or head up the hill for a proper pub meal at The Red Lion in Mawnan Smith. Helford Passage The Route: Starting at Mawnan Church, rounding Rosemullion Head, and skirting the edge of Glendurgan Gardens. The Pub: A well-earned roast at The Red Lion in Mawnan Smith or a waterside drink at the Ferry Boat Inn. Read the full guide 3. The Flushing & Mylor Creek Circuit Distance: 4 Miles | Difficulty: Easy | Terrain: Flat estuary paths, tidal creeks & historic boatyards The Pub: The Royal Standard (Flushing) or The Pandora Inn (Restronguet) A wonderful "watery" walk offering panoramic views across Falmouth Docks and the Carrick Roads without the heavy climbing of the open outer coast path. The Route: Sets off from the historic 18th-century packet-ship village of Flushing, rounding Trefusis Point to Mylor Marina, before returning over the gently rolling fields. The Pub: Settle in at The Royal Standard in Flushing, or extend your stroll up the creek to the famous 13th-century Pandora Inn with its floating drinking pontoon. Harbour at Flushing 4. Lamorna Cove & The Merry Maidens Distance: 5 Miles | Difficulty: Moderate-Strenuous | Terrain: Granite cliff paths, ancient trackways & granite moorland The Pub: The Lamorna Wink or The Logan Rock Inn (Treen) Step into the "Deep West" of Penwith. This walk blends the romantic, boulder-strewn coastline of Lamorna Cove—famous for its early 20th-century impressionist artists' colony—with the eerie, mystical atmosphere of the 4,000-year-old Merry Maidens stone circle inland. Lamorna Cove The Route: Clamber out of Lamorna Cove onto Rosemodress Cliffs, before turning inland across ancient granite field boundaries to the stone circle, returning via the wooded valley. The Pub: Steep yourself in local lore at The Lamorna Wink (named after a wink given to smugglers) or take a short detour to The Logan Rock Inn at Treen. Lamorna Cove 5. The Lansallos "Secret" Coastal Loop Distance: 3.5 Miles | Difficulty: Moderate | Terrain: Ancient packhorse trails, hidden coves & open farmland The Pub: The Blue Peter Inn (Polperro) If you want to escape the summer crowds of nearby Polperro, this hidden gem offers what the National Trust calls "one of the most beautiful approaches to the coast in Cornwall." Lansallos The Route: From Lansallos church down a sunken medieval packhorse trail to the secluded beach at Lansallos Cove, east along the cliffs to East Coombe, and back across field paths. The Pub: Lansallos village is delightfully unspoilt and pub-free, making it the perfect precursor to a scenic 10-minute drive into Polperro for a pint at the waterside Blue Peter Inn. Read the full guide Lansallos Why These Walks? Each of these routes has been hand-selected because they offer the "Holy Trinity" of Cornish hiking: a circular route, coastal views, and a historic pub nearby. Whether you are looking for the rugged cliffs of the north or the wooded creeks of the south, these 5 walks represent the very best of Martin Hesp’s "Hikometer" ratings. Frequently Asked Questions: Cornish Pub Walks Are these circular pub walks dog-friendly? Yes, all five routes follow public footpaths and the South West Coast Path where dogs are welcome on leads. Most traditional Cornish coastal inns (including The Ferry Boat Inn, The Red Lion, and The Blue Peter) are very dog-friendly in the bar areas. What is the best time of year for walking in Cornwall? Spring (April to June) and early autumn (September to October) offer ideal walking conditions—milder temperatures, active wildlife, blooming wildflowers, and quieter paths compared to peak July and August. Do I need to book ferries in advance for the Fowey Hall Walk?No advance booking is needed. The foot ferries between Fowey, Bodinnick, and Polruan run continuously throughout the day during the main walking season.

I wouldn’t put this up in summer - these beaches can get crowded. or some of them can - not all. But now autumn is arriving you might go to any of these and find yourself alone. Which would be wonderful…. Anyway, this is my shortlist of 10 Great West Country Beaches Take a look at our South West Coast path guide here Pedn Vounder beach with the tide almost in, West Cornwall With so many spectacular coastlines right on our doorstep, you don't need to board a flight to enjoy excellent cheap UK getaways this year. Pedn Vounder: 1. Pedn Vounder, West Cornwall Best for: Wild scenery, crystal waters, and adventurous walkers Location: West Penwith (Near Treen) My No.1 favourite beach in the South West. Just thinking of its white sand, dramatic granite cliffs, and turquoise water makes me want to jump in the car and drive the 160 miles it takes to reach it from Exmoor. It’s located in furthest West Penwith—and be warned, the descent down the cliff path requires a sure foot and hanging onto a rope! Where to Stay Nearby: Treen, Porthcurno, and Penzance are ideal bases for exploring the far west tip of Cornwall. Woolacombe beach strethces south 2. Woolacombe, North Devon Best for: Massive sandy expanses, world-class surf, and family days out Location: North Devon Coast (Near Ilfracombe & Braunton) The antithesis to Pedn Vounder. Easy to reach, huge, and extremely popular—but the crowds don't go there for nothing. With fabulous golden sand and rolling Atlantic surf, this is England's answer to California. If you want to escape the summer hordes, you can always take a walk along the vast sand dunes toward Baggy Point. Where to Stay Nearby: Woolacombe, Mortehoe, and Croyde offer excellent coastal hotels, cottages, and holiday parks right on the doorstep of the surf. Beer beach in east Devon 3. Beer, East Devon Best for: Old-world coastal charm, fresh seafood, and traditional seaside heritage Location: East Devon Jurassic Coast (Near Seaton & Sidmouth) Not the booze, but the wonderful old-fashioned cobble beach set beneath the towering white chalk cliffs of East Devon. Think excellent tea shops housed in wooden beach huts, clinker-built motorboats available to hire, local fishermen hauling their crab boats up on winches, and families who have been coming here for generations. Where to Stay Nearby: The picturesque village of Beer itself, or neighboring coastal towns like Sidmouth and Seaton. A lot of beaches on St Martins 4. St Martin’s Bay, Isles of Scilly Best for: Subtropical white sand, crystal-clear snorkeling, and utter tranquility Location: St Martin's Island, Isles of Scilly Simply the finest, purest white sand to be found anywhere in Europe. This is where the West Country turns into the Caribbean—the blue-green waters are so clear you can easily see the fine sand 40 feet down when snorkeling. Remote, pristine, and completely unforgettable. Where to Stay Nearby: Stay directly on St Martin's for luxury island retreats and island guesthouses, or base yourself on St Mary's and take the local ferry across. 5. Doniford, Somerset Best for: Fossil hunting, rock-pooling, and fascinating coastal geology Location: Somerset Coast (Near Watchet & Williton) The complete opposite of the Scillonian paradise above. You can't see an inch through the silty waters of this Bristol Channel beach, and it isn't "beautiful" in the classic sandy postcard sense. But it is deeply fascinating. Daniel Defoe was amazed when he visited in 1724, discovering huge prehistoric fossils embedded directly in the sweeping natural stone pavements exposed at low tide. 6. Maceley Cove, South Devon Best for: Remote horseshoe coves, crystal-clear swimming, and rugged solitude Location: South Hams (Near East Prawle & Start Point) If you adore distant, empty coves where a small horseshoe of golden sand is bordered by rock pools and a restless, crystal-clear sea, then Maceley Cove is for you. Wonderfully wild, picturesque, and surprisingly Mediterranean in feel, the coast around the charming village of East Prawle sits right at the top of my personal list of favourite places. Where to Stay Nearby: East Prawle, Salcombe, or Kingsbridge make brilliant bases for exploring the hidden coves of the South Hams. 7. Porthcothan, North Cornwall Best for: Classic Cornish surf, dramatic headlands, and TV film location hunting Location: North Cornwall (Between Padstow & Newquay) One of the finest beaches on the Seven Bays stretch of North Cornwall. Excellent sand and surf with a maze of alluring rock pools uncovered as the tide retreats. You might even recognise the surrounding cliff-tops where Ross Poldark galloped in the hit BBC television series. Where to Stay Nearby: Padstow, St Merryn, and Mawgan Porth provide fantastic hotel, cottage, and culinary bases nearby. 8. Lantic Bay, South Cornwall Best for: Boating access, sweeping coastal vistas, and quiet sandy retreats Location: South Cornwall Coast (Near Polruan & Fowey) Another classic horseshoe of sand bordered by rocky reefs and translucent water. Like Maceley, Lantic Bay is a bit of a steep trek on foot from nearby Polruan—which is precisely why it remains so unspoilt and proves immensely popular with visiting yachts and leisure craft all summer long. Where to Stay Nearby: Fowey, Polruan, or Bodinnick across the estuary offer stunning water-front stays. 9. Portheras Cove, West Cornwall Best for: Untamed wilderness, ozone sea breezes, and quiet perfection Location: Far West Cornwall (Near Pendeen & St Just) Tucked away beneath the imposing Pendeen Watch Lighthouse in West Penwith, Portheras is a true jewel among coves. A golden sand beach of near-perfect proportions, this remote stretch of rocky littoral hangs in the memory like an oceanic, ozone-filled dream. Where to Stay Nearby: St Just, Pendeen, or the artistic hub of St Ives just up the coast road. 10. Vault Beach, Roseland Peninsula Best for: Secluded coastlines, wild swimming, and untouched natural beauty Location: South Cornwall (Near Mevagissey & Dodman Point) Tucked away miles from anywhere on Cornwall's quiet Roseland Peninsula, somewhere between Mevagissey and the high headland of Dodman Point. Vault Beach is one of the true sandy jewels in the West Country crown—a vast, curving sweep of shingle and sand. (Watch out for naturists who enjoy the quiet far end!) Where to Stay Nearby: Gorran Haven, Mevagissey, or Portscatho along the gentle Roseland coast. Frequently Asked Questions: Visiting West Country Beaches Which West Country beaches are best for avoiding summer crowds? Remote coves that require a walk or steep descent—such as Maceley Cove in South Devon, Lantic Bay in South Cornwall, or Portheras Cove near Pendeen—remain relatively quiet even in high season compared to main resort beaches. Are these beaches dog-friendly year-round? Many of the more secluded coves like Portheras, Pedn Vounder, and Maceley Cove do not have seasonal dog bans, whereas main resort beaches like Woolacombe enforce seasonal restrictions in designated zones. Where can I find Caribbean-style white sand beaches in the UK? St Martin’s Bay in the Isles of Scilly offers fine, pure white sand and turquoise sea so clear you can see 40 feet down to the seabed.

The Baltic shore of the Curonian Spit There’ll be many readers who do not like heatwaves. I could never understand this when I was young, but now… The heat can be too much for a bloke who’s pushing 70. A lot of people agree - witness the rise and rise of the “coolcation”. The word had not been invented at the start of this decade, but now it’s one of the most searched-for travel topics and, given the way the plant seems to be warming, it is a trend that’s set to continue. I was certainly glad of the opportunity to take a “coolcation” recently, having been invited to spend a few days in Lithuania. And I enjoyed every minute of it, despite my initial reaction that an ex-Soviet-bloc country might be a drab and dreary, lacklustre sort of place. How wrong I was! Within minutes of landing at tiny Palanga Airport, we found ourselves in what I could only describe as a kind of Scandinavian Switzerland. By which I mean: posh! Sleek apartment buildings and modern architecture seemed to dominate the forested seaside town - we didn’t spot any of those depressing high-rise housing blocks the Soviets used to build in all their towns. The cars were all better and newer than the ones on our roads - and the roads themselves were devoid of potholes! Typical scene in Palanga As for the drab and dreary Communist style food I’d been dreading… We never saw any of that. Indeed, I’d say Lithuania fed me some of the best grub I’ve had in a while - and at a very reasonable price. So what was I doing in this neck of the Baltic woods? Well, the folk who run tourism in Lithuania are keen to tell the world about their Amber Coast - and a very pleasant, interesting and unusual part of the Scandinavian littoral it is too. The pier at Palanga First Impressions of Palanga: Seaside Resorts & Botanical Parks As I say, our introduction to Lithuania began at Palanga - a location easily reached on cheap flights from the UK - and a place that instantly shattered every preconceived notion I’d harboured about post-Soviet Baltic states. We were whisked away from the airport straight to a lunch that instantly told me my fears of “Communist food” were unfounded. Instead of the grey, uninspired cabbage-and-potato mash I had secretly braced myself for, I was treated to prime examples of modern European culinary flair. The ingredients were fresh, the presentation immaculate, and the flavours crisp. My very first meal in Lithuania was a simple prawn salad, but it was a magnificent example of its kind. Fresh prawn salad in Palanga Refuelled and feeling a little foolish about my earlier anxieties, we were taken on a walking tour of Palanga. This forested seaside town owes its elegance to the Tiškevičiai counts, a visionary family of Polish-Lithuanian nobility who transformed a fishing village into a high-society resort during the 19th century. They built a grand neo-Renaissance palace, but their true gift to the town was the surrounding Palanga Botanical Park. Designed by the famous French landscape architect Édouard André, the park is a masterpiece. It’s now a public space, but felt more like an aristocratic estate, where manicured lawns weave seamlessly through dense pine forests that march down to the Baltic shore. Palanga Botanical Park We had a fascinating half-hour in the Amber Museum housed inside the counts’ old palace - a dazzling collection of prehistoric resin containing everything from ancient twigs to preserved insects. A Baltic breeze began to pick up, providing the kind of “coolcation” climate I had been expecting, as we strolled around the elegant seafront area and called at the Palanga Resort Museum - a curious old villa, also owned by the Tiškevičiai counts. We stayed at a large and popular (filled with Lithuanians and Poles) spa hotel which provided us with a magnificent dinner and a hearty breakfast that featured everything from local cheeses to fresh pastries. So we we’re well set-up for our day out in Klaipėda, Lithuania’s only seaport. Exploring Klaipėda: Old Town & The Castle Museum Historically known as Memel, the city has a distinct German flavour, having spent centuries under Prussian rule. Our guided stroll through the Old Town revealed a grid of cobbled streets lined with 19th-century timber-framed buildings (Fachwerk). Rising from the historic ramparts where the Danė River meets the lagoon, Klaipėda’s newly restored Castle Museum complex blends medieval ruins with striking modern architecture. Actually, we were among the first visitors to this newly opened museum and we were astounded by the place - it must have cost millions of Euro to build. Klaipėda’s newly restored Castle Museum complex Housed within underground bastions and pristine new pavilions, the museum utilises cutting-edge holograms, massive projection zones, and thousands of archaeological artefacts to bring the old 13th-century Memelburg fortress vividly back to life. The town is a place that feels deeply connected to the sea, a theme that carried through to another superb lunch at a town-centre restaurant where local fish was the undisputed star of the show. We also visited the Švyturys Brewery - a large city-centre outfit that hosts guided tours and makes very very good beers. The Curonian Spit: Lithuania's Natural Wonder In the afternoon we caught the ferry across the lagoon to the Curonian Spit - and this second half of our trip was, to me, the great highlight of our Lithuanian tour. The harbour inside the Curonian Lagoon at Nida You need to look at a map to begin to understand the lay of the land and sea in these parts, because the four-minute ferry crossing does not do the geography justice. The Curonian Spit is a 61-mile-long, narrow ribbon of sand dunes - extending north to south and dividing the Baltic with the inland Curonian Lagoon. It is shared between Lithuania and Russia’s Kaliningrad Oblast region, which straddles the southern half of the spit. Since the Ukrainian war this strange sea-bound border has been closed - huge watchtowers loom over pine woods and dunes and the place has a distinct Cold War feel to it. The Baltic shoreline of the Spit The Spit is, without exaggeration, one of the most remarkable landscapes I have ever come across. As we drove south long it, our guide regaled us with local folklore - tales of giants who supposedly scooped up the sand in their aprons to form the peninsula to protect the fishermen from the wrath of Baltic storms. The ferry from Klaipėda To witness the drama of this UNESCO World Heritage site, we met a park ranger at the Nagliai Spit Nature Reserve. Walking along the boardwalks through the ‘Dead Dunes’, you could be forgiven for thinking you’d stepped onto another planet. Huge, shifting hills of pale sand, sculpted by the Baltic winds, have slowly marched across the landscape over the centuries, burying entire villages beneath them. It is stark, beautiful, and utterly silent place. In the Nagliai Nature Reserve there are places where the sands have covered entire villages The Curonian Spit & Nida: Sand Dunes, Land-Yachting & Lagoon Views By late afternoon, we reached Nida, the largest settlement on the Lithuanian side of the spit. Here, the local architecture changes again - the town is famous for its brightly painted wooden fishermen’s houses, decorated with intricate weather vanes. But we weren’t just here to admire the woodwork. At the old Nida Airfield, we were introduced to the exhilarating sport of ‘blokart’ (land-yacht) sailing. Hesp on the land-yacht at Nida I wasn’t sure how my joints would take to being strapped into a three-wheeled buggy just inches off the tarmac, but the moment the wind caught the sail and I tore down the runway, any hesitation vanished. It was thrilling, and my little yacht was remarkably easy to control. I loved it. It was just a couple of minutes’ drive to the lovely Prie Marių Nida guesthouse, located on the inland shore of the spit. From here we could get an idea of just how vast the Curonian Lagoon is - and the next day were were to find out by crossing in a a fast boat. The journey took 40 very bumpy minutes. The lovely Prie Marių Nida guesthouse, right of picture But first we were able to enjoy our evening stay at this handsome, well kept little guesthouse, run by a lovely and welcoming family. Mark Bibby Jackson of the British Guild of Travel writers at the Prie Marių Nida guesthouse We were also treated to an excellent dinner of traditional Lithuanian dishes at the Nerija viešbutis restoranas - reckoned to be one of the best eateries in the region. I can vouch that it is, especially seeing that, at my request, our banquet included one of Lithuania’s national dishes… The famous pink soup, šaltibarščiai, is a refreshing cold beetroot broth - vibrant in colour and flavour - made with shredded beetroot, kefir or buttermilk, crisp cucumbers, and fresh dill. It is one of those dishes where the sum is greater than its parts. A perfect hot-weather dish. The famous pink soup, šaltibarščiai, is a refreshing cold beetroot broth Wildlife in the Nemunas Delta The next morning we were aboard the speedboat for a tour across the lagoon to the Nemunas Delta - a labyrinth of rivers, canals, and vast wetlands that acts as a vital highway for millions of migratory birds. We watched huge flocks of waterfowl take flight as sea-eagles and harriers flitted here and there above the endless reed-beds. The Nemunas Delta Our voyage brought us to the Ventė Cape Ornithological Station, one of the oldest bird-trapping and ringing stations in Europe, established back in 1929. We were treated to a bird-ringing demonstration by the resident scientist, who handled various small birds with astonishing speed and care. Bird ringing at Ventė Cape Ornithological Station For lunch, we stopped at a family-run establishment called Mėlynasis Karpis (The Blue Carp), located in the heart of the fishery region. Mėlynasis Karpis (The Blue Carp) Needless to say, the main ingredients are taken straight from the ponds. My sturgeon steak was one of the best bits of fish I’ve ever tasted, which is saying something. My sturgeon steak was one of the best bits of fish I’ve ever tasted And what’s the best thing to do after a large and delicious lunch? Head for a raised bog, of course. The Aukštumala Raised Bog is one of the most famous of its kind in the world, having been the first to be scientifically studied and written about in endless research papers. A boardwalk allows you to walk right into the heart of this ecosystem of mosses, stunted pine trees, and dark pools without getting your boots muddy. A truly ancient environment, that looks exactly as it did thousands of years ago. The Aukštumala Raised Bog History, Wellness and a Final Surprise Our final afternoon took us inland to Kretinga, a town steeped in religious history. We were welcomed with coffee and traditional desserts before embarking on a tour entitled “The Secrets of the Monastery”. A bit gruesome in places, but fascinating if you like vast old churches and monasteries. We spent our final night at the nearby Atostogų parkas (Holiday Park) wellness centre, where I happily soaked away the miles in their geothermal mineral water pools - the perfect antidote for a travel writer who had spent the last three days walking dunes, sailing land-yachts, and exploring bogs. Lithuania didn’t just surprise me - it completely changed my understanding of that part of the world. The eastern Baltic is a truly fascinating place. For anyone looking to escape the oppressive heat of southern Europe for a sophisticated, green, and thoroughly “posh” northern getaway, the Amber Coast offers an easy-to-reach, hassle-free option. Fact File Lithuania Tourism: Lithuania Travel Official Tourism Site CityBee Car Sharing: CityBee Lithuania Lithuanian Railways: LTG Link Train Tickets Curonian Spit Ferry Information: Smiltynė Ferry Timetables The region has one national park (Curonian Spit) as well as two regional parks: the Nemunas Delta Regional Park and the Seaside Regional Park. The region is also part of the EuroVelo cycling network, with EuroVelo 10 (Baltic Sea Cycle Route) passing through the coastal area. Martin flew from Stansted and stayed at the Hampton by Hilton before his early-morning flight. Holiday Extras is the market leader in UK airport parking, hotels, lounges and transfers. For current prices and bookings visit: Holiday Extras Frequently Asked Questions: Planning a Coolcation on Lithuania's Baltic Coast What is the best month for a 'coolcation' on Lithuania’s Amber Coast? June through August offers warm daylight and fresh Baltic sea breezes, with daytime temperatures usually hovering pleasantly between 18°C and 23°C—ideal for outdoor activities without oppressive heatwaves. How do you get to Palanga and the Curonian Spit from the UK? Direct flights operate from UK airports (including London Stansted) directly into Palanga Airport. From Palanga, Klaipėda and the Curonian Spit ferry are less than a 30-minute drive or bus journey. Where should you stay when visiting the Curonian Spit? Nida is the main hub on the Lithuanian side of the spit, featuring traditional timber guesthouses along the Curonian Lagoon. Palanga offers larger spa hotels and coastal resort accommodation.

A successful company retreat is about more than reserving a meeting room. The best retreats bring teams together in an inspiring setting where collaboration, relationship-building, and relaxation happen naturally. Choosing a destination that offers productive workspaces alongside memorable experiences can help organisations create events that employees genuinely look forward to attending. Breckenridge provides the perfect backdrop for corporate retreats thanks to its mountain scenery, year-round outdoor activities, and vibrant downtown atmosphere. At Hotel Alpenrock, business groups can combine professional meeting facilities with luxury accommodations and easy access to the area's many attractions, creating a retreat that balances productivity with recreation. Meeting and Breakout Space Options Every company retreat has unique goals, whether it's strategic planning, leadership development, team building, client presentations, or company-wide celebrations. Hotel Alpenrock offers flexible meeting spaces that can be configured to support a wide variety of event formats. Large meeting rooms accommodate keynote presentations, company updates, and general sessions, while smaller breakout rooms allow departments or project teams to collaborate in more focused settings. This flexibility makes it easy to build customised agendas that include presentations, workshops, brainstorming sessions, and networking opportunities throughout the day. Organisations searching for conference space in breckenridge often prioritising venues that combine professional amenities with an inspiring atmosphere. Hotel Alpenrock delivers both by pairing modern meeting facilities with panoramic mountain surroundings that encourage creativity and meaningful collaboration. In addition to well-appointed event spaces, attendees benefit from high-quality dining, comfortable gathering areas, and attentive hospitality that help meetings run smoothly from arrival through departure. Between sessions, teams can enjoy fresh mountain air, informal conversations, or scenic walks that foster stronger relationships outside the conference room. Room Blocks and Group Booking Process Comfortable accommodations play a major role in the success of any corporate retreat. Rather than requiring attendees to stay at multiple properties, Hotel Alpenrock makes it easy to organise room blocks that keep teams together throughout the event. Reserving breckenridge hotel suites and guest rooms through a coordinated group booking process simplifies logistics for organisers while providing attendees with a comfortable home base during their stay. Group room blocks also make it easier to coordinate arrivals, networking events, breakfasts, and evening gatherings without unnecessary transportation between locations. The hotel's event specialists work closely with planners to help coordinate accommodations, meeting schedules, catering, and event details, allowing organisers to focus on the goals of the retreat rather than day-to-day logistics. Beyond structured meetings, the surrounding destination offers countless opportunities for team-building activities. Skiing and snowboarding during the winter, hiking and mountain biking in the summer, along with local dining, shopping, and outdoor adventures, allow colleagues to strengthen relationships in a relaxed environment. Companies selecting a breckenridge resort for their retreat benefit from a destination that encourages both productivity and recreation, creating an experience employees are likely to remember long after returning to the office. Final Thoughts A memorable company retreat requires more than meeting rooms—it requires a destination that inspires collaboration while giving teams opportunities to connect outside the workplace. Hotel Alpenrock combines flexible meeting spaces, comfortable accommodations, professional event support, and the beauty of the Rocky Mountains to create an exceptional setting for corporate gatherings. Whether you're hosting an executive retreat, annual planning session, or company-wide event, Hotel Alpenrock provides everything needed to bring your team together in one unforgettable Breckenridge experience.

August is in full swing, and this year uncertainty and unfavourable exchange rates could mean that the West Country peninsula becomes busier than ever with visitors attempting to find respite from an increasingly worrying world. Empty Cornish coves Forget city-breaks and trendy downtown destinations—wild, unspoilt, quiet, empty places are what’s needed. There’s been a plethora of books and guides published in recent years singing the virtues of going to wild places and including everything from wild swimming to tree-hugging—but which are the best places in which to chill out in South West England? One guide describes the region as being full of… “Storm-battered headlands, hidden waterfalls, tumbledown cottages, the ruins of haunted chapels deep in forgotten woods, mediaeval Green Men, old mines and quarries being recaptured by nature, rusting sea-forts tottering on sandbanks…” Not a bad overview. But there seems to be a more general perception that the “quaint little Westcountry” is a place where folk go on holiday, have a cream tea and maybe swallow a crab sandwich in some overly commercialised fishing village, before going back to their caravans or guest-houses. Even when people are looking for green leafy voids, oceanic vastness or moorland emptiness on the national stage, we get overlooked or forgotten. Walkers on the moors at Zennor, West Cornwall Secret Walks in Somerset: The Brendons, Levels, and Quantocks I live in the Brendon Hills—the eastern limb of Exmoor—which I know through my extensive walking researches to be the least visited range of uplands anywhere south of The Pennines. Fine by me, but visitors miss out on the amazing walks and panoramas that the escarpment can offer without the risk of ever seeing another tourist in sight. The Brendon Hills If you were to walk on wild and lofty Bird’s Hill high above the West Somerset village of Monksilver, for example, there’s little chance that you would see another living soul—be it summer or winter. In fact, before the Coleridge Way long-distance trail was inaugurated to skirt the hill, you could have spent years up there without seeing another human being. Much the same could be said about the vast amphitheatre of valleys two miles west that surround the remote hamlet of Comberow. Coleridge Way passes through the Brendon Hills Again, you are highly unlikely to meet anyone. There’s another vast Somerset location which joins the Brendons in luring very, very few tourists at all. The Somerset Levels offer some of the best “get-away-from-it-all” venues anywhere in England. There are fantastic walking routes, cycleways or even canoeing possibilities which will see you being the only person in the vast empty landscape. Filled with charming, unspoilt villages that play host to quiet pubs, the Levels are ideal for anyone who likes gentle walks or cycle rides with no gradients—but who also likes to see loads of wildlife and plant-life. It can’t be beaten for its enormous flocks of birds—or hosts of butterflies for that matter. (CHECK OUT OUR SOMERSET WALKS PAGE HERE) Somerset Levels, an empty landscape full of birds For a real landscape treat, visit the National Trust’s Burrow Mump, right in the heart of the Levels. Enigmatic, lonely—this is a steep island in a sea of green flatness which occasionally turns blue when the Levels flood. Stand by the ruined church on the summit and you can gaze down at the place where King Alfred burned the cakes. The edges of the Levels also offer some amazing locations in which to escape the madding crowd. Try the fabulous Polden Way, for example—its six short miles which take you along the ridge to the east of the Levels offer some of the best hiking panoramas in the West Country. Escape the High-Summer Crowds in Somerset Check live availability for quiet B&Bs, countryside cottages, and historic inns across the Somerset Levels and Exmoor escarpment using our interactive accommodation finder: View of flooding from the top of Burrowbridge Mump, Somerset Levels Quiet Spots Across East & South Devon Down into Devon, there’s the lovely Blackdown Hills Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty—which must be one of the least visited AONB areas in England. Again, it’s an area full of charming villages and endless rights-of-way where you’ll hardly ever see another person. On the Blackdown Hills, Castle Neroche is the vantage point—the lynch-pin—that casts its dark and historic eye over just about all of the troublesome borderlands which used to divide Wessex from the West Country proper. Up here you are walking along the ramparts of the old Norman fort, and pretty spectacular ramparts they are. Apart from the breath-taking views, the very slopes of the Norman workings are astonishing enough with near vertical drops plunging 80 feet down into the forest. Typical landscape in the Blackdowns AONB You can look across at another AONB from here—and a stroll along Quantock’s airy heights where the wind never stops whispering among the pale deciduous grasses and where the panoramas come in wide-screen mode, is one of the most peaceful things you could ever do. Few places inspire such an innate and elemental sense that seems to tell you that here, in the cups of the coombes, lies the very bosom of the English countryside. Perhaps it is the homely redness of the sandstone, maybe it is the very shape of those superb curves that contour every glade and headland: it is hard to say exactly how or why the hills score so many points on the wilderness front. Go up Bicknoller Coombe to the big empty ridge for some of the best, loneliest, moments the Quantocks have to offer. View looking south from ridge of the Quantock Hills Remote Exmoor: Wild Valleys and Empty Acres Moving west again, Exmoor does, of course, boast some of the emptiest, least visited acres in all of England. The great ravine between Kitnor Heath and Codsend Moors just south of Dunkery seems to be a no-go zone for humans. On the numerous occasions I’ve walked there since boyhood, I have never seen a single person there. There are a lot of ravens. And deer. Then there are the partridges making their strange, almost exotic, chirring noises in the riverine abyss deep below Codsend. A few sheep bleating, a few larks ascending. No sound of man. The deer moving imperceptibly through the bracken, a group of Exmoor ponies way on the horizon, a few cattle minding their own business. And not much else at all. (CHECK OUT OUR EXMOOR WALKS PAGE HERE) The lonely expanse of central Exmoor Then there’s Larbarrow, Southern England’s answer to the African savannah or the Russian steppes. The vast hinterland that rises to the north of the young River Exe is a primeval landscape which has more or less been untouched by the hand of man. Stand in its midst and the only straight line of man’s making you may see is an airliner’s vapour trail. Everything else will be as nature intended. This is the England where great herds of big wild animals would have once roamed unmolested. And this is where you can roam pretty much unmolested to this day. No one for miles in the middle of Exmoor on a sunny day Coastal Seclusion & Hidden Forests Down in East Devon, Aylesbeare Common is a place which still retains a sense of wilderness. It’s a rare chunk of ancient heathland that plays home to the largest number of butterfly species to be found in any RSPB reserve. Incredible really, to be just a few miles outside Exeter and into such a great swathe of nature-rich wilderness… Extensive forests in East Devon Exactly the same could be said for Ashclyst Forest. It is just a mile or two off the M5, yet the National Trust owned forest boasts a sense of concealment. It breathes privacy and seclusion. Ashclyst is a mixed woodland and you get the distinct feeling, walking out of earshot of the modern world, that this is how much of England used to be. Golden Cap might be one of the most highly protected places in the region, being a key point of the Jurassic Coast World Heritage Site, and yet its lofty summit still exudes wilderness, as does much of the National Trust’s Golden Cap estate. Rare snakes, lizards, butterflies and birds all haunt the area, but it’s the stupendous views that give you the sense of lofty isolation. From Golden Cap you can look down across the gargantuan landslides that mark this coast—past a million dinosaur fossils to Charmouth, and on again along half of the Jurassic Park. Golden Cap, Dorset You only have to climb the Haldon Hill range just south of Exeter to know that there’s plenty of awesome countryside where you can go to feel immersed in nature. Yes, these hills do have two major roads running through them—but walk out to lofty Obelisk Plantation, stroll through Gilpin’s Bottom or wander through Deadman’s Coombe out to Whiteway Wood and you will know you are somewhere very lonesome and lovely indeed. Beyond lie the South Hams, and here again there are wild empty spaces to enjoy. The area might be one of the region’s more well-to-do zones—most barns may have been converted into posh residential hideaways—but there are plenty of lonesome corners nevertheless. Even near urban Torbay you can discover a sense of solitude almost as profound and deep as that to be enjoyed on the heights of distant Dartmoor. Seeking Solitude in Devon in High Summer? Bypass the jammed coastal resorts and drop anchor in the quiet heart of the county. From remote Dartmoor edge inns to secretive B&Bs hidden in the Blackdown Hills and Central Devon, find peaceful bases off the beaten track. Forests on Dartmoor Hidden Coast of Devon Walk the coast path south over Long Sands, down to Scabbacombe Sands, then up to the great headland which borrows the tiny cove’s name and you will enjoy some of the best open countryside that 630-mile right of way has to offer. And yet you will be just two miles from the streets of Brixham and three from the restaurants of Dartmouth. Sail south a dozen miles and things get even wilder. The coast south of Hallsands running out to Start Point is one of the most undomesticated sections of the entire South West littoral - a terrain known as coastal heath dips steeply to the sea in places where once, long ago, crofters used to scratch a living in a few tiny fields. (CHECK OUT OUR DEVON WALKS PAGE HERE) The empty village of Hallsands, South Devon Now none but gulls and walkers go there—and much the same can be said for the amazing coastal strip around the corner along the beautiful section between Start and Prawle Points. And this southerly wilderness doesn’t finish here. Past Prawle there is one of the most scenic stretches of coastline to be enjoyed anywhere in England. The amazing, empty, magical section between Prawle and the Salcombe estuary might seem obsessed with porky names (there’s Gammon Head, Pig’s Nose and Ham Stone) but no place in the country could be further from thoughts of a pig sty. Wild coast near East Prawle Central Devon: England's Bermuda Triangle I’ll admit we’re in the rather busy South Hams here—if real emptiness and quietude is what you want you might like to try a great swathe of central Devon which could be described as England’s Bermuda Triangle. Hardly anyone ever seems to go there. The triangle that stretches west from Crediton and Tiverton even has a hamlet called Nomansland smack in the middle of it which seems to bear out the notion. Go somewhere like the area north of Chawleigh and walk in the scenic Little Dart Valley and you will see what I mean. This has nothing to do with the region’s other River Dart—but it is just as lovely in its own remote and silent way. Empty forests at Eggesford, Central Devon Not far away, still out in the middle of nowhere, Eggesford is a splendid place in which to take a stroll. “Despite the lack of habitation in the area all trains stop at Eggesford Station because the local landowner made that a condition of releasing the land to build the railway which opened in 1854.” So says a local walks leaflet which also says that Thomas Hardy once alighted here in 1885 and described the scenery as “lovely” and the great house as “handsome”. Nothing much has changed. Far to the north again, someone ought to write a book about the enigmatic hinterland which lies between the A39 and the jagged Atlantic coast after the road turns left at Clovelly and heads south for Bude. The jagged rocky coast near Morwenstow This is “wrecker” country where dangerous denizens once haunted the coast helping themselves to whatever the sea washed up—where, later, Parson Hawker tamed them into helping stricken sailors or at least picking up the 'gobbets'—which were human bits and pieces left over from the storm. The village of Kilkhampton, deep in Wreckers' Country But it boasts more than coastal savagery. The visitor looking for wilderness is drawn into deep, secretive valleys that lead down to those frightening, razor cliffs. They will find bluebell woods hiding from the cruel sea, dizzying waterfalls and hidden hamlets snug in quiet coombes. High above all this the Tamar is born, and if you follow this south you’ll come to some very empty places indeed. Take Cookworthy Moor to name but one. It’s impossible to imagine now, as you stroll along a muddy track in the big gloomy forest somewhere out on the bleak clay-lands of Tamar country—now known as Ruby Country—but once upon a time hordes of happy holidaymakers would rattle on trains through this lonesome place on their way to the Cornish coast. Further downstream the Tamar becomes surrounded by higher and higher hills which are the first risings and eminences of Bodmin Moor and Dartmoor. Tamar river scene near Cotehele Dartmoor & Bodmin Moor Wilderness Walks Where could be wilder than Dartmoor? In England you’d have to go a long way north to find a landscape that’s emptier and less mucked about with by mankind. One location I’d choose to represent a wilder, more peaceful Britain would be Tavy Cleave and beyond. Nowhere I know in this peninsula is wilder or more empty—the roaring river cuts through the rocky ravine and there have been times when I’ve thought the place has looked more Andean or Himalayan than something from homely Devonshire. (CHECK OUT OUR CORNWALL WALKS PAGE HERE) Lonely Tavy Cleave, West Dartmoor I’d also recommend the headwaters of the East Dart River—walking up there from Postbridge is like striding into Conrad’s novel Heart of Darkness. Then there’s Taw Head, which is plonk in the centre of Dartmoor’s northern vastness. It is as middle-of-nowhere-ish as you get in this peninsula. Now we can cross the Tamar into Cornwall in search of a bit of peace and quiet… A Cornish press photographer once growled to me: “I don’t know how I do my job in July and August—half the county is one big traffic jam.” No one who’s ever been west of the Tamar during high summer will have any argument with this statement, but that’s not to say the place isn’t rich in wild places… Footbridge on the lonely River Tavy, West Devon Escaping High Summer Crowds in Cornwall It’s often said that South East Cornwall is the county’s forgotten corner—and it is true to say that often the tourists pass right on by in their hurry to head west. The coastline from Cawsand out to Rame Head is wonderfully wild and scenic—indeed, it is hard to imagine you are just a few miles from Plymouth, the 11th biggest city in England. Rame Head is a magnificent affair and to reach it you must climb countless steps to the top of an oceanic knoll. Here stands the ruined 14th century Chapel of St Michael—it may be drafty, but apparently the local church comes out here once a year for a full-blown service. The wind never stops whispering among the wild lichen gardens of the holy eaves, and from the chapel's gaping southerly window you can see the Eddystone Lighthouse being vertical and brave out there in the great disc-world of the sea. Beating the High-Summer Traffic in Cornwall? You don't need to get stuck in coastal gridlock to enjoy the far West. Discover quiet B&Bs, granite moorland cottages, and tucked-away village inns across South East Cornwall, Bodmin Moor, and the far reaches of West Penwith. Walker with Rame Head in the background One of the least wild places along this part of the littoral is Polperro, which is not surprising as it’s one of the region's prettiest ports. But just to the west of Tourist Central you will discover one of the most beautiful and dramatic stretches of coastline we have. The South West Coast Path does its usual trick of undulating here—it goes up, and it goes down—past Nealand Point and Colors Cove, beyond Blackybale Point and Penslake Cove. Now let’s head inland directly north to the roof of Cornwall. Minions is Cornwall's topmost village—at least, in altitudinous terms. There isn't much else up there but a pub, a tea-room and the most extraordinary views—and there is all of Bodmin Moor stretching off in the general direction of the Atlantic Ocean. Cornish coast at Polperro You cannot walk an inch on these lonely plains without bumping into the past. If it's not the prehistoric stone circles, then it's the clutter left by tin-streamers, copper miners and quarrymen who knocked seven bells out of the moors. Few places in the region are as torn up and generally mucked about with as this once productive corner—now there’s no one save the odd walker. Rocks overlooking the old clay workings on Bodmin Moor I could add just about all Bodmin Moor to the West Country empty-place listings, as it is the region’s least visited stand-alone upland. Now let’s go south—a long way south—as far, in fact, as you can go without getting your feet wet. The remarkable Lizard peninsula deserves an article of its own when it comes to empty places. Not all the Lizard, of course—some parts get very busy indeed. But if I was pushed into naming just one spot where gulls go to be lonely on the cape, then it would be Black Head, the mighty headland that guards the eastern shores at the end of Chynhalls Cliff near Coverack. Empty summer beach on east coast of the Lizard Travelling towards the sunset, a great deal of West Penwith can be wild and empty even on the busiest of days. Stick a granite finger into a mighty ocean and that’s the windswept result you’re bound to get. I won’t mention the various “secret” coves I know tucked under the north Penwith Moors, because the last time I did, some readers complained I was putting up a flag that would make them secret no more… The best thing about West Penwith is the ability to explore and discover secret empty places of your own… But just as a hint I’ll tell you that the walk to Zawn Gamper—a cove in the very far west—will introduce you to a very empty zone indeed. Along the way you will be introduced to wild and people-less headlands like Rosemodress Cliffs, Carn Barges, Gazell, Tol Toft and Tater-du. Old Cornish tin mines in a West Penwith valley This is only the most fleeting of round-ups. It would be easy to go into far greater detail and name the exact locations of many of the West Country’s lovely wild and empty zones. But A) we haven’t room—you’d need an entire book, or two… and B) there is something to be said for the people who complained last time I named specific beaches in Cornwall. By telling people about them, we could be guilty of helping to spoil them. Which is why this article has given just a taster of the places where you can go to escape the madding crowds this August. Frequently Asked Questions Where can I go to avoid crowds in Devon during summer? While coastal towns like Salcombe and Torbay get busy in August, central Devon—often dubbed "England's Bermuda Triangle" between Crediton and Tiverton—remains wonderfully quiet. The Little Dart Valley, Eggesford Forest, and the clay-lands of Ruby Country near the Tamar offer peaceful, crowd-free walking. What are the least visited hills in Somerset? The Brendon Hills, forming the eastern limb of Exmoor, are among the least visited uplands south of the Pennines. Walks over Bird's Hill above Monksilver or through the valley amphitheatres surrounding Comberow offer wide panoramas with almost no other walkers in sight. Can you find quiet coastal walks in Cornwall in peak season? Yes. While popular fishing villages and surfing beaches can be packed in July and August, quieter stretches include the coastline between Start Point and Prawle Point, Rame Head in South East Cornwall, and the remote coastal headlands along the far western tip of West Penwith. Is Exmoor quiet in August? Exmoor contains some of the emptiest acres in southern England. Deep valleys like the ravine between Kitnor Heath and Codsend Moors, or the vast open savannah-like hinterland around Larbarrow, remain serene and virtually untouched by peak summer tourism.

What a summer… It’s no wonder that many of us have been eating outdoors as often as we can. Who wants to be in a stuffy, overheated kitchen when the temperatures are rising above 30 degrees? Half the time in a heatwave, the word ‘cooking’ just doesn’t apply. Prepping a bit of salad is more the thing. There’s nothing better than a cooling bowl of tomato salad on an overly warm evening. That is not something I’d have actually bothered to write in a newspaper even a short time ago, because the flavour of the great majority of tomatoes grown and sold in this country was poor to zero. Unless you grew your own, there just were none of the little red flavour bombs around even five years ago — or for most of my adult lifetime, indeed. Supermarket tomatoes became something of a joke — as did the phrase “Grown for flavour” when it began to be introduced to packs of industrialised greenhouse produce. But now we must take our hats off to the growers who supply the big chains with tomatoes and other summer veg. Even in the cut-price stores this summer you’ve been able to buy punnets of named varieties, some of which aren’t at all bad. Those watery, thick-skinned red billiard balls of yesteryear are becoming a bad memory. In just a few years, high-end growers — particularly those making the most of the often sunny (especially this year) Isle of Wight — have fundamentally transformed what we can buy on a standard food-shop. Where once everything was bred purely for shelf-life and uniform shape, today’s top-tier varieties really are bred for flavour. Food writers and chefs have been taking notice, and for good reason. The Science of Flavour: What is the Brix Rating? The secret in all this is something called the Brix rating. In simple terms, Brix is a scale used to measure the natural sugar content in produce (one degree Brix equals one gram of sucrose per 100 grams of liquid). Standard mass-market round tomatoes often hover around a bland 3 or 4 on the scale. But the high-brix cultivars hitting the shelves this summer regularly hit 8, 9, or even higher. It’s not just about raw sweetness, either — high sugar levels act as an amplifier for the natural acids and aromatic compounds, giving you that full-bodied, nostalgic tomato punch that used to be confined to Mediterranean holidays or to the produce coming out of a gardener’s own greenhouse at home. The Best Summer Tomato Varieties to Look For If you’re looking to build a summer platter without turning on the stove, these are the named varieties worth hunting down: Piccolo: Considered by some as the king of the supermarket cherry-vine varieties (found in M&S, Waitrose, and top-tier ranges). It boasts a high Brix score, thin skin, and an aromatic, intense sweetness. Pink Oishi: A pink-hued heritage beefsteak grown on the Isle of Wight. Sliced thick, it offers a silky texture with a rich, savoury umami depth rather than sharp acidity. Viola Cocktail: A traditional vine-ripened cocktail tomato that has been winning blind taste tests. It delivers that classic, punchy "old-fashioned" tomato scent and a perfect sweet-acid balance. Sugardrop & Santini: Small baby plums that pack a dense, concentrated punch. Santini is delightfully fleshy with few seeds, while Sugardrop is purely about crisp, intense sweetness. Coeur de Bœuf (Oxheart): The classic, heavily ribbed Italian beefsteak. It’s velvety, dense, and meaty, making it ideal to slice raw onto a platter with fine olive oil and flaky sea salt. One important tip: Keep them out of the fridge — cold temperatures kill those delicate aromatic volatiles. The Cucumber Revival: Say Goodbye to Watery Greens Which brings us to the humble cucumber — a salad staple that, until recently, was about as exciting as a glass of tap water. To quote the good Dr. Samuel Johnson: "A cucumber should be well sliced, and dressed with pepper and vinegar, and then thrown out, as good for nothing." For years, British shoppers were stuck with standard European straight cucumbers — large, perfectly-formed, shrink-wrapped cylinders bred to be indestructible in transit, packed with soggy, watery seeds and encased in a bitter skin. Now, though, the cucumber market is undergoing its own quiet revival, sometimes driven by a shift toward mini snacking varieties and soil-grown organic crops. If you’ve picked up an organic cucumber from Lidl lately, your tastebuds aren’t deceiving you — they really are a world away from the mass-produced greenhouse versions. Three Reasons Behind a Better Cucumber Flavour Over Tough Outer Armour: Don’t be fooled by a rugged, tough skin — often found on home-grown or organic ridge varieties. Beneath that thick outer hide lies dense, sweet, highly concentrated flesh that puts watery commercial greens to shame. Simply peel off the rough skin, and you are left with top-tier flavour. Denser Flesh and Less Water: Better cultivars (like Persian or organic mini varieties) have tightly structured flesh with tiny seeds, meaning they retain their crisp crunch rather than turning slushy the moment they are cut. Soil and Sunlight: Organic and soil-grown cucumbers grow at a slower, natural pace compared to hydroponic ones. This concentrates their natural mineral salts and green, cooling sweetness. The Salting Trick: Whatever cucumber you use, cut or slice it, toss it with a generous pinch of sea salt, and let it sit in a colander over the sink for 20 minutes. As that pool of pale green, watery juice drains away, the texture transforms from flabby to brilliantly crisp, and the natural cucumber flavour becomes instantly concentrated and punchy. Sweet Peppers: The Long, Sweet Revolution If standard blocky bell peppers are the reliable workhorses of the veg drawer, the long, tapered pointed jobs are the stars of a raw summer feast. Specifically, the Ramiro or Palermo peppers (often sold as "Sweet Pointed" or "Extra Sweet" in M&S, Waitrose, and Tesco Finest). Grown to mature fully on the vine, they carry virtually no bitterness and have a thinner skin than standard bell peppers. Their natural sugars peak in mid-to-late summer, giving them a crisp, juicy bite that is almost fruit-like in its sweetness. The No-Cook Trick: Don’t bother chopping them into neat rings. Tear them open by hand, pull out the core, and snap them into jagged, rustic shards. Dip them straight into good olive oil mixed with sea salt, or scoop up soft, creamy goat’s cheese. Radishes: Bringing Back the Pepper Radishes suffered the same fate as old-school supermarket tomatoes for years — bred to look like perfect little red marbles, but tasting mostly of water. Fortunately, the revival of heritage varieties has brought back the fiery pepperiness that makes a radish so refreshing on a hot day. French Breakfast: Long and oblong with a white tip, these are mild, crunchy, and delightfully peppery without blowing your head off. Heritage Mixed Radishes: (Widely available in M&S and Waitrose in summer). Cut these open and you get stunning pink, purple, and white starbursts. They have a denser texture and a sharp, mustardy bite that cuts through rich food brilliantly. The Classic French Preparation: I also slice and salt the cheaper ones and after a few hours under a sprinkle of the white stuff they do lose a lot of liquid and gain in flavour. You can also enjoy them the Middle European way — trim the roots, wash them well (leaving a nub of the green stem for a handle), and serve them whole alongside a slab of heavily salted, good-quality unpasteurised butter and a pile of crusty bread. Smear the radish into the cold, rich butter and eat alongside a cold top-quality German or Czech lager for one of the simplest and greatest no-cook treats available in summer. Assembling a World-Class West Country Summer Platter When you aren't cooking, the charcuterie and cheese often need to carry the whole show. Forget mass-market imports — the West Country and its immediate neighbours are producing world-beating cured meats and unpasteurised cheeses that belong on any proper summer platter: Farmhouse & Unpasteurised Cheeses Somerset: Traditional clothbound raw-milk cheddars like Keen’s, Montgomery’s, or Westcombe. They offer a deep, savoury, broth-like umami bite and a crumbly structure that pairs effortlessly with sweet Ramiro peppers and ripe Piccolo tomatoes. Devon: The iconic Sharpham soft cheese (from near Totnes), rich and buttery, or Quicke’s clothbound cheddar from the rich pastures of Devon’s Creedy Valley bringing a grassy, nut-like depth. Cornwall: A wedge of nettle-wrapped Cornish Yarg or creamy Helford Blue, providing a sharp, buttery kick to sit alongside sliced tomatoes. Herefordshire: Dorstone from Neal’s Yard Creamery — a turret-shaped, ash-rolled goat’s cheese with a light, mousse-like texture and a bright, citrusy acidity that cuts through rich food brilliantly. Gloucestershire: A genuine single-estate Double Gloucester or a tangy, ash-coated Cerney Ash goat’s cheese from the Cotswolds. Regional Artisan Charcuterie Dorset: Capreolus Fine Foods (based in West Dorset). Their award-winning air-dried Dorset Coppa and Dorset Guanciale carry sweet, marbled fat that melts on the tongue. Devon: Good Game Charcuterie in Topsham, using local free-range pigs and game to produce traditional, salt-cured salami, coppa, and bresaola without artificial preservatives. Somerset: Somerset Charcuterie, blending traditional Italian and Spanish curing techniques with local flavours like West Country cider, mustard, and wild garlic. Cornwall: Duchy Charcuterie (Redruth), producing extraordinary air-dried hams, spicy chorizo, and black-pudding salamis. The Essential Pantry Elevators Caperberries: Served whole with their stems attached, these firm, seed-filled berries offer a satisfying, vinegary pop. They slice clean through the rich fats of cured pork and raw-milk cheddar, instantly clearing the palate. Salted Anchovies & Olives: A few Spanish or Italian salt-cured anchovies in extra virgin olive oil laid over a slice of Pink Oishi tomato, accompanied by a scattering of plump, brine-cured olives. Toss a crusty loaf of local sourdough on the board, pour a small bowl of good olive oil, sprinkle with sea salt, and you have a regional, no-cook feast fit for the hottest afternoon of the summer. The "At a Glance" Summer Salad Guide What is the Brix rating in tomatoes? Brix measures the natural sugar content in produce. Standard supermarket tomatoes usually score a bland 3 or 4, whereas high-Brix varieties (like Piccolo or Pink Oishi) hit 8 or 9, amplifying natural aromatics and sweet-acid balance. Should you keep fresh tomatoes in the fridge? No. Cold temperatures destroy the delicate volatile aromatic compounds that give tomatoes their rich, nostalgic flavour. Keep them at room temperature on the counter. How do you make cucumbers less watery and more crisp? Slice your cucumber, toss generously with sea salt, and let it sit in a colander over the sink for 20 minutes. Draining off that excess pale juice concentrates the natural flavour and leaves the texture brilliantly crisp. What are the best West Country cheeses for a no-cook summer board? Clothbound raw-milk cheddars (Keen’s, Montgomery’s, Westcombe), buttery Sharpham soft cheese, nettle-wrapped Cornish Yarg, and citrusy ash-coated goat’s cheese like Cotswold Cerney Ash or Herefordshire Dorstone.