Watergate Bay: a great place to stay for walks on the North Cornwall coast
- Martin Hesp
- 1 day ago
- 9 min read
There are plenty of reasons for staying at Watergate Bay, but one of the best is something that has little to do with the hotel itself.
It is the walking.
I have stayed at the Watergate Bay Hotel a couple of times and always liked the idea that, once you've parked the car, you are already in one of the most spectacular stretches of north Cornwall. And within a few miles there are some superb coastal walks taking in enormous beaches, towering cliffs, hidden coves and some of the wildest scenery in this part of the county.
Two of my favourite walks are around Bedruthan Steps and Porth Mear, just a few miles north of Watergate Bay.
One is a relatively short circular walk that concentrates on the great drama of the cliffs. The other starts at Porthcothan and takes a longer inland-and-coastal route through some wonderfully quiet Cornish countryside before joining the coast near Bedruthan.
Together they make a pretty convincing case for using Watergate Bay as a base for a walking break.
Watergate Bay Hotel
Watergate Bay is one of those places where the geography does much of the work.
The hotel sits immediately above the huge sweep of beach, with the Atlantic stretching away in front of it. It is close enough to Newquay to be convenient, but once you are looking out over the sea it feels considerably more removed from the town.
I've stayed here a couple of times and particularly like the fact that it works as a proper base rather than somewhere you simply return to after a day sightseeing.
You can walk on the beach, eat well, look at the Atlantic and, most importantly for the purposes of this article, get out into some wonderful coastal walking country without having to spend half the day driving.
And if you head north from Watergate Bay, the coast quickly becomes increasingly spectacular.
Walk 1: Bedruthan Steps and Porth Mear
Bedruthan Steps is one of the most dramatic bits of coast to be found anywhere in England, let alone along the West Country.
The beaches, rock islands and cliffs between Park Head in the north and Trerathick Point in the south combine to create a scene so sensational that countless thousands of visitors come here every year simply to stand on the cliff top and go oooh-and-aaah.
But there is a way of experiencing Bedruthan that is considerably more rewarding than simply looking at it from the National Trust car park.
Park at the National Trust's Carnewas car park and follow the path towards the sea. The anticipation builds as the specially constructed stone path carries you towards the cliffs.
Then suddenly you are on the brink.
And you understand what all the fuss is about.
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The cliffs here are mighty — and horribly vertical. There is no need for an ugly fence along the cliff edge to tell you that this is somewhere to take care. Sensible people naturally keep well back.
The great attraction, however, is the possibility of descending the cliff staircase to the beach.
There is an important caveat. The staircase is not always open, and the beach section of the walk is dependent on tides and conditions. The National Trust closes the steps when they consider the descent unsafe, and you should always check the current arrangements and tide times before setting off.
When I did this walk, we were lucky enough to get down.
The staircase is surprisingly steep and, at times, alarmingly so. At the bottom we headed north across the rocks, passing the stack known as Redcove Island, before finding a natural cave which took us underneath the cliffs.
Beyond it was a beautiful, virtually empty bay, with sands stretching towards Samaritan Island. It was one of those moments when Cornwall seems to have been keeping its best scenery hidden.
Back on the clifftop, the route continues north along the coast path, past Samaritan Island and the more substantial Diggory's Island before reaching Pentire Steps and Park Head.
The path doesn't actually take you out to the extreme tip of Park Head, although you can explore further if you wish. Given the precipitous nature of the cliffs, I would advise considerable caution.
The coast path then turns north-east above a couple of wonderfully craggy and inaccessible coves before dropping dramatically into Porth Mear.
This is one of my favourite places in Cornwall.
The coast path plunges into a steep V-shaped valley which has an extraordinary untouched quality. At its end lies Porth Mear itself, a beautiful little cove and a superb place for rock-pooling.
When my children were young, reaching the Trescore Islands at low tide was one of those small Cornish adventures that could occupy them for hours.
This time I was walking rather than messing about in rock pools, so the route heads inland up the valley along a permissive path towards Pentire Farm.
From there another path crosses the fields before returning to Pentire Steps and the coast path, eventually bringing you back to Carnewas.
It is a lasso-shaped walk with the opportunity for a seaside adventure — and, put simply, one of the best hikes of that description you will find anywhere.
Bedruthan Steps walk: at a glance
Start: National Trust Carnewas car park
Distance: About 3.5 miles
Going: Generally easy, although the descent to the beach involves a steep staircase
Map: Ordnance Survey Explorer 106
Important: Check National Trust access arrangements and tide times before attempting the beach section.
Walk 2: Porthcothan to Bedruthan
The second walk begins a little further south at Porthcothan, but eventually brings you into the same spectacular stretch of coast.
It is a longer walk — about seven miles — and has a rather different character because it combines inland lanes, farmland, wildlife and quiet valleys with the great coastal drama of Bedruthan. I originally came here partly because I was looking for corn buntings.
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They are not immediately obvious members of the great ornithological pantheon. They look rather like fat sparrows and, in Cornwall, have become an increasingly scarce bird.
At the time I wrote the original article, this particular section of the north Cornish coast represented one of their last remaining strongholds.
I had been visiting farmers who were working with the RSPB to manage their land in ways that would help the birds. And while I was there, Ordnance Survey Explorer 106 suggested that there was also a rather good circular walk to be found in the area.
Porthcothan itself is a magnificent starting point.
Its huge golden beach stretches inland with all the self-importance of a great river in its final approach to the sea. Except there isn't really a river at all — merely a modest stream.
Follow that stream inland and the landscape changes completely.
The path runs alongside it towards Porthcothan Mill and eventually reaches the little hamlet of Penrose.
There is something almost Irish about Penrose. It is one of those lonely Cornish settlements that somehow seems to have wandered across the Atlantic and ended up in the wrong country.
From here the route heads south along lanes and tracks before climbing towards Trethewell and eventually crossing fields towards Trevorgey.
The landscape is peaceful and agricultural, a useful reminder that the north Cornish coast isn't simply cliffs and beaches. Behind the spectacular shoreline there is a working countryside of farms, lanes, hedges and valleys.
Eventually you have the option of heading towards the Bedruthan area.
On my walk I avoided the crowds around the National Trust car park and took a shorter route towards Pentire Farm.
This is National Trust country, and the quiet valleys around here are particularly good for wildlife. Porth Mear is again one of the highlights.
The valley behind it has an almost Mediterranean or Spanish feel in places, with dry-stone walls and tamarisk bending in the salty wind.
The tamarisk fascinated me when I first walked here. A National Trust countryside manager explained that it is extremely salt-resistant and makes an effective windbreak beside the sea.
The same valley also provides valuable wildlife habitat.
And somewhere around here I heard the unmistakable call of the corn bunting — a sound which really does resemble a jangling bunch of keys.
Eventually the route returns towards the coast and the Bedruthan country, giving you the opportunity to enjoy some of the finest scenery on this stretch of Cornwall before completing the circuit.
Porthcothan–Bedruthan walk: at a glance
Start: Porthcothan Cove
Distance: About 7 miles
Going: Generally easy
Map: Ordnance Survey Explorer 106
Highlights: Porthcothan, Penrose, Pentire Farm, Porth Mear, Bedruthan and the north Cornish coast
Character: A mixture of inland tracks, lanes, farmland and spectacular coast.
Why Watergate Bay makes such a good base
The great advantage of staying at Watergate Bay is that you don't have to choose between a traditional Cornish holiday and a walking break.
You can have both.
Spend a morning walking the cliffs and coves around Bedruthan, return to the hotel for a shower and a leisurely afternoon, then go down to Watergate Bay itself and watch the Atlantic rolling in.
Alternatively, tackle the longer Porthcothan circuit and return knowing you've spent several hours exploring a section of Cornwall which is surprisingly wild despite being relatively close to Newquay.
Newquay/Holywell – another coastal walk very close to Watergate Bay:
Cornish Seaside Walks: Holywell – a beautiful walk just outside Newquay
Cornwall beaches:
And there are plenty of other possibilities in the same general area.
The coast south of Watergate Bay leads towards Mawgan Porth and eventually Newquay. Head north and you quickly reach Bedruthan, Park Head and Porth Mear, while continuing towards Padstow opens up yet more superb walking.
This is what I particularly like about Watergate Bay as a base.
It isn't simply a hotel beside a famous beach. It puts you within easy reach of a remarkable piece of Cornwall. For walkers, that matters.
Because sometimes the best way to appreciate a great hotel is to spend the day walking through the landscape around it — and then come back to somewhere comfortable overlooking the same Atlantic you have just been battling your way along.
Watergate Bay and the coast around Bedruthan provide exactly that combination.
More Cornwall walking and places to stay
If you're planning a walking break in Cornwall, you might also enjoy my other features on places to stay and walks around the county. I've gradually been bringing together some of my favourite Cornish hotels, guesthouses and coastal walks based on places I have actually stayed and walked.
Polzeath and the Pentire Point/The Rumps walk:
Watergate Bay is particularly good for anyone who wants spectacular coastal scenery without being completely cut off from the comforts of a proper hotel.
And after a day on the cliffs, there are few better sights than the Atlantic from Watergate Bay.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is Watergate Bay a good base for walking in North Cornwall?
Yes. Watergate Bay is particularly well placed for exploring the north Cornish coast. Bedruthan Steps, Porth Mear and Porthcothan are all within easy reach, while there are many other coastal walks around Newquay and towards Padstow.
What are the best walks near Watergate Bay?
Two particularly rewarding walks are the circular walk around Bedruthan Steps and Porth Mear, and the longer Porthcothan to Bedruthan route. Both combine dramatic coastal scenery with quieter inland sections.
How far is Bedruthan Steps from Watergate Bay?
Bedruthan Steps is only a few miles north of Watergate Bay, making it an easy excursion if you are staying at the Watergate Bay Hotel.
Can you walk down to Bedruthan beach?
There is a steep staircase giving access to the beach when it is open, but access is not guaranteed. The National Trust closes the staircase when conditions make the descent unsafe. Tide times are also extremely important because visitors can become cut off.
Is the Bedruthan Steps walk suitable for everyone?
The main clifftop walking is relatively straightforward, but the cliffs are high and exposed and the descent to the beach involves a steep staircase. Anyone attempting the beach section should be comfortable with steep steps and should check conditions before setting out.
Is Porth Mear worth visiting?
Very much so. Porth Mear is one of my favourite places on this stretch of the Cornish coast, with a beautiful secluded cove at the end of a steep valley. It also makes a lovely contrast to the dramatic cliffs and crowds around Bedruthan Steps.
Is Watergate Bay good for a walking holiday?
It can be an excellent base for a walking break, particularly for people who want to combine proper coastal walking with a comfortable hotel, restaurants and the beach. The location makes it possible to explore several sections of the North Cornwall coast without having to change accommodation.
