Many years ago I wrote the following walk article for the newspapers after my pal Bins and I had enjoyed this extraordinary hike. I was there again this week, so thought I’d repeat the words here - because this really is a magical part of Cornwall…. We walked west as far as St Loy from Lamorna Cove and turned up onto the hills so that we could find a stone circle where we could watch the suns going down. That's right - suns. Two of them dipped towards the great, vast illuminated void of the Atlantic Ocean and we knew these were special moments indeed. The whole of England's most far-flung peninsula was bathed in light to the extent that even our chins and my long nose cast no shadow as the glow of these twin orbs was brilliant and all-embracing. We were standing amidst the standing stones of the Merry Maidens watching this cosmic phenomenon with incredulity when a band of hippies galloped up on board two horse-drawn carts. As they had arrived with their backs to the suns we were glad to point out this somewhat miraculous occurrence and were instantly repaid by a chorus of 'wows' and 'far-outs' from all but one of this merry gang. This tall, emaciated youth who looked as if he'd be more at home on University Challenge than galloping across the rocky downs of Penwith behind a pair of unshorn horses, stroked his wisp of a beard and said: "Interesting. Rather a rare meteorological phenomenon commonly known as a 'sun-dog'. And dear readers, in case long suffering and trusting among you thought I had finally lost it, I can report that the wayward young boffin was right. I rang the Met. Office's enquiries desk and the knowledgeable chap manning the phone informed me: "Parhelia - otherwise known as a sun-dog. Quite rare, noteworthy at the very least. "It happens when there's a very high layer of ice-crystals which cause the light to bend. then you can get a halo and, more rarely a mock sun or even two to the left (as ours was), right, both sides or even above the real sun." So there you have it. Although this truly far-out apparition caused me to have a bolstering snifter later that evening in Zennor's Tinners Arms, I'm sure that you will now believe that not a drop had passed my lips before I saw the twin-suns. Quick Walk Overview Distance: ~5 miles (8 km) circular Difficulty: Moderate (dramatic cliff paths with steep, rocky steps around St Loy) Starting Point: Lamorna Cove Pay & Display Car Park, PL19 6XQ Terrain: South West Coast Path cliff-edge trails, wooded coombe, inland quiet lanes, and granite downs OS Map: Explorer 102 (Land's End, Penzance & St Ives) Highlights: Lamorna Cove, Tater-du Lighthouse, boulder beach at St Loy, Merry Maidens stone circle Refreshments: The Lamorna Wink (pub) or Lamorna Cove Cafe Indeed I had been doing a good deal of driving, as that's what it takes to get from almost anywhere to Lamorna Cove. Walking the Coast Path: Lamorna Cove to Rosemodress Cliffs Ah, Lamorna Cove. Even the name is worth repeating and in the shadowy silence of a sunlit evening it is as romantic a place as any along our rocky coasts. Not that it was in the least bit romantic last time I visited its granite strewn shore. My daughter Nancy had just learned to walk and, in that way which children have of doing exactly the opposite to what they normally do, she insisted on clambering along the path under her own steam rather than riding in that well known object of parental torture - the back-pack. Sue still has nightmares about Nancy teetering along this path which, for the first half-mile or so, is riddled with unexpected abysses and sudden, vertical drops. And so it was with particular ease that I strode out west of Lamorna on the evening of the two suns with my family tucked up safely at home and only my pal Bins to worry about as he cantered off like some wily old goat in the general direction of Zawn Gamper. I only put that in because Zawn Gamper is a cove along the way and I have a weakness for places with weird names. This one sounds a bit like some half-boiled psycho in a second-rate American backwoods horror movie. Exploring St Loy and the Boulder Beaches of West Penwith Anyway, it's a lovely enough place and you get to it by walking up out of the shadowy setting of Lamorna Cove, along the sunny headlands of Rosemodress Cliffs, past Carn Barges, Gazell, Tol Toft and Tater-du. The names won't mean anything to anyone except the lobster-pot fishermen who work along here, but like I say, I simply can't resist them. Indeed I can't resist this fabulous hike and have promised Sue that we'll return Nancy-less one sunlit evening when the walk is at its best, and do the whole thing without a panic-attack in sight. As for Bins he couldn't resist a word or two with the American girls who were 'doing' the peninsula from St Ives around to Penzance. They complained that this south coast was "bitty" and they much preferred the bold, emptier northern cliffs past Zennor and St Just. Once I would have agreed, but now I'm not so sure. There is something Du Maurier-esque or even Secret Seven about this stretch, as if the most natural thing in the world along here would be to stumble across the French-speaking pirate saying a secret adieu to the lady of the manor, or perhaps a Nazi spy counting the hours until darkness cloaked his U-boat escape. This is especially feasible when you eventually get to St Loy's Cove where there are a couple of remote houses - one watching over the sea as bold as brass, the other lurking in the woods in a secret sort of way. Heading Inland to the Ancient Merry Maidens Stone Circle A footpath climbs up through these woods and along this you must go to reach the B 3315 which will take you back east. I'm sorry about this road bit, and if you really son't want to be on the tarmac there is a zig-zag route on a footpath across the fields from Boskenna Cross to Boscowen Rose and then up to the Merry Maidens. But it was getting late when were there and, having spotted the twin-suns we wanted to hop along to the Merry maidens which seemed the perfect place to soak up an atmosphere which suddenly seemed half Arthurian legend, half X-File. Frequently Asked Questions Q: Where do you park for the Lamorna Cove walk? A: There is a paid parking area right at Lamorna Cove by the harbor, which provides immediate access to the South West Coast Path heading both east and west. Q: How far is the Merry Maidens stone circle from Lamorna Cove? A: Walking inland from Lamorna Cove via St Loy or the valley lanes to the Merry Maidens is roughly 2 to 2.5 miles depending on the exact footpaths taken. Q: Is the coastal path around Lamorna Cove suitable for young children? A: The coast path heading west toward St Loy includes steep drops, uneven granite boulders, and narrow cliff paths, so extra care is needed with young children or those with limited mobility. Explore More Coastal Walks & Local Pubs:Stopping for a pint after your walk? Read our roundup of the 5 Best Circular Pub Walks in Cornwall.Heading east along the coast? Check out our guide to the Lansallos Cove Coastal Walk.

An affordable travel platform has launched a new service connecting cyclists and walkers with hosts offering spare rooms. Outdoor enthusiast and entrepreneur Emily Brown's bed4night platform provides community-based clean budget beds overnight. Built with a focus on sustainability, accessibility, and human connection, the platform aims to redefine modern travel while tackling tourers' isolation. Currently available across the UK, plans are in hand to expand into Europe with growth of the Community Interest Company, with profits reinvested locally. Built for Flexibility and Off-the-Beaten-Track Travel Designed for flexibility and accessibility, the initiative is ideal for last-minute travellers, walkers, and cyclists seeking off-the-beaten-track stays. The idea was hatched during a French bike-packing trip, Emily explaining: "After a series of travel mishaps and expensive, unsuitable accommodation options, I struggled to find a simple, affordable place to stay."At one point, I considered asking a local farmer if I could sleep in their barn. Instead, I ended up paying €160 for a small room, miles off route."That’s when it clicked... there needed to be a better way! And the concept would work in the UK as well as across the rest of Europe." Connecting Guests and Hosts in Three Easy Steps bed4night brings back a human element to travelling with real people connecting, sharing stories, and supporting one another. The platform connects guests with local hosts, offering spare rooms or garden space in three easy steps: Create your profile – Free to join and easy to set up. Connect with verified hosts – Book and secure payments safely. Rest easy – Stay with locals who care about your journey. Benefiting Local Communities Across the UK The platform is actively seeking hosts across the UK who have spare rooms or outdoor space and are open to welcoming guests, even at short notice. Added Emily: "My goal is to build something that benefits everyone. Hosts can earn extra income, travellers get affordable stays, and communities receive direct support. It’s about creating something meaningful." For travellers looking for accommodation and hosts interested in becoming involved, further information is available at the bed4night.co.uk site. Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) What is bed4night? bed4night is a UK-based Community Interest Company (CIC) platform that connects walkers, cyclists, and outdoor travellers with local hosts offering affordable spare rooms or garden camping space. Who is bed4night designed for? The platform is tailored for cyclists, bikepackers, hikers, and flexible last-minute travellers looking for simple, budget-friendly overnight stays off the main tourist routes. How do I become a host on bed4night? Anyone with a spare bedroom or outdoor garden space for camping can sign up for free on the platform to welcome guests and earn extra income.

If you want to understand what real, uncorrupted West Country farmhouse cider tastes like, you have to make a pilgrimage to Land’s End Farm in Mudgley. And if you are lucky enough to pull up a wooden barrel in the press-house, you will meet the man who keeps this ancient Somerset tradition alive: Roger Wilkins. Land’s End Farm: The Shrine of West Country Cider Roger is a living legend in the cider world. Making real cider the same way his grandfather taught him decades ago, he relies on nothing more than ripe local bittersweet apples, a massive 100-ton hydraulic press, hessian cloths, and giant oak barrels. There are no chemicals, no added sugars, no carbonation, and certainly no fizzy factory concentrate here. Over the years, everyone from Joe Strummer and Banksy to celebrity chefs and thirsty locals have dropped into his Somerset barn to sit on overturned flagons, eat a chunk of sharp Cheddar, and sample "the agricultural lubricant" that has powered these hills for centuries. Here is a look inside the press-house with Roger, his farm, and the noble art of true Somerset farmhouse cider. IF YOU'RE ENJOYING THIS POST CHECK OUT OUR SPECIAL CIDER AND PERRY PAGE 2. Farm & Cider Profile (Insert Alongside Your Photos/Video) 🍺 Profile: Wilkins Farmhouse Cider The Producer: Roger Wilkins ("The Cider King"). Location: Land’s End Farm, Mudgley, near Wedmore, Somerset (perched on the slopes above the Somerset Levels). The Philosophy: Proper, traditional farmhouse cider. Unfiltered, unpasteurised, unsweetened, and fermented naturally in large oak vats. The Process: The Harvest: Apples drop naturally from orchard trees when fully ripe before being swept up and brought into the yard. The Mashing: Hessian bags are filled with fresh apple pulp and stacked twelve layers high to form a traditional "cheese". The Pressing: A powerful 100-ton press squeezes the pulp bone-dry, sending fresh juice directly into aged oak barrels. Zero Waste: The remaining dry apple pomace is fed directly to the farm’s herd of beef cattle. Famous Fans: The late Joe Strummer of The Clash famously declared that his happiest moment was "chilling in Somerset with a flagon of Wilkins' Farmhouse Cider from Mudgley Hill." Here's a newspaper piece which I wrote about Roger in 2017… A Somerset man will be lifting a glass this weekend to celebrate winning a prestigious national award, but as he says: “I often wets me whistle – nothing unusual in that.” It’s by wetting his whistle that Roger Wilkins has become one of the best known traditional cider-makers in the country in a lifelong career that has now earned him the Campaign For Real Ale’s exalted Pomona Award. “I make my cider by tasting it, not testing it, like some big makers do,” Roger told me. “That’s the secret of my success and that hasn’t changed since my grandfather started making cider here in 1917.” The Pomona Award is named after the Roman goddess of apples and is presented by CAMRA to the person who has done the most to promote real cider or perry either in the past 12 months or – if there is no outstanding contender for the year – someone whose ongoing work has benefited the trade. “I was a bit surprised when they told me they were giving me the award,” shrugged Roger, speaking during the seasonal apple-pressing frenzy at his Somerset Levels farm yesterday. “But don’t worry - I shan’t be getting big headed. I’ve won things before – two years ago I won the award for the best traditional cider in the country. That’s what they told me it was, anyway.” Few people in this region would be less likely to be carried away by such newfound fame. Roger Wilkins is the very picture of a no-nonsense, salt-of-the-earth cider-maker and Land’s End Farm at Mudgeley – halfway between Glastonbury and Wedmore – is for many cider fans a shrine to all things old-fashioned and unchanging. “Our only fear is that he might become some kind of celebrity with his Somerset humour and accent,” said one visitor buying Roger’s golden nectar yesterday. “Loads of famous people already come here – Johnny Rotten is a fan and Mick Jagger’s brother is a customer.” “I’m 61 and I won’t change now,” laughs Roger. “Nothing much has changed since grandfather started making cider here. The recipe for the cider is exactly the same. It was he who taught me to make it. He came here in the First World War and mother was born Christmas Day that year and I was born in the house December 1947. I helped him making cider when I was still at school.” The 100-Ton Press: How Real Farmhouse Cider is Made Roger makes a basic traditional cider. You can either buy dry or sweet, then there’s medium – which is a mix of the two. The sweet does have an additive, albeit a tiny one – just a single teaspoon full of saccharine for every 20 gallons. As the golden juice drips from his 1868 H. Beare and Sons, Newton Abbot-made cider-press, Roger tells me: “That’s it. That’s all you get in Wilkins cider – 100 per cent apple juice. Some of these modern ciders – well, all I can say is that they must have shares in Bristol Water Company.” Sarah Newson, of CAMRA's cider and perry committee, is certainly a fan: “This phenomenal contributor to the industry thoroughly deserves this award for his sheer enthusiasm and commitment to producing the best real cider,” she says. “With his farm overlooking Westhay Moor, Roger could not produce cider in a more stunning location. Maybe these surroundings have been the inspiration for his continued success.” Somehow, you can’t imagine Roger looking moodily out at the view for inspiration. “But I can tell which orchard the apples come from,” he says in his down-to-earth way. Frequently Asked Questions About Visiting Roger Wilkins Cider Where is Roger Wilkins Cider located? Roger Wilkins Cider is located at Land’s End Farm in Mudgley, near Wedmore in Somerset (Postcode: BS28 4TU), overlooking the Somerset Levels. Can you visit Roger Wilkins' farm for tastings? Yes. Land’s End Farm is an active, working farm where visitors can walk straight into the barn to taste traditional dry, medium, or sweet cider pulled directly from the barrel, alongside local Cheddar, Stilton, and pickles. What makes Roger Wilkins' cider traditional? Unlike mass-produced commercial ciders made from artificial concentrate, water, and added sugars, Roger Wilkins uses 100% pure juice pressed from local bittersweet apples. The cider ferments naturally in oak barrels without artificial carbonation or chemicals.

Stepping off a small wooden boat onto the sun-baked quay of Spinalonga is a sobering experience. Resting in the turquoise waters of Mirabello Bay, just a short hop across the lagoon from the quiet fishing village of Plaka, this tiny 85-acre islet carries a weight of human history out of all proportion to its size. To the eye, it is visually mesmerising: thick Venetian ramparts of golden limestone curve dramatically around the shoreline, while crumbling Ottoman stone houses climb the terraced hillside toward breathtaking views of the Cretan coast. Yet every wall on tells a double story. Built as a formidable Venetian sea fortress in the 16th century, it spent the first half of the 20th century as Europe’s last active leper colony (1903–1957). Thousands of men and women were exiled here through "Dante’s Gate"—the dark, narrow tunnel leading from the landing stage—forced to build a community, a life, and a sanctuary out of isolation. Though primarily a photo essay capturing the stark light, silent alleys, and weathered battlements of this extraordinary place, here is a guide to the layered history of Spinalonga. 🏛️ Spinalonga at a Glance: Layers of History Location: Gulf of Elounda, Lasithi region, Eastern Crete (facing the seaside village of Plaka). The Venetian Era (1579–1715): Fortified by the Venetians to guard the strategic salt pans of Elounda. Its massive bastions made it one of the most impenetrable sea fortresses in the Mediterranean—so strong it remained in Venetian hands for nearly 50 years after the rest of Crete fell to the Ottomans. The Ottoman Village (1715–1903): Under Ottoman rule, a thriving trading community developed on the islet, leaving behind rows of two-storey stone shops and houses lining the main street. The Leper Colony (1903–1957): Declared an isolated sanctuary for sufferers of Hansen’s disease (leprosy). Rather than giving up, the residents formed "The Brotherhood of the Sick," establishing their own cafes, barber shops, electric generator, theater, and church (St. Panteleimon) until the colony closed in 1957 following the discovery of a cure. Literary Connection: Immortalised in Victoria Hislop’s international bestseller The Island. IF YOU LIKE THIS POST CHECK OUT OUR ARTICLE ON THE IMBROS GORGE Through Dante’s Gate: Arriving on Spinalonga The Venetian Battlements and Ottoman Alleys Frequently Asked Questions About Visiting Spinalonga How do you get to Spinalonga Island? Spinalonga is accessible only by boat. Regular passenger boats depart daily from the small village of Plaka (a quick 10-minute crossing), as well as from the nearby resort towns of Elounda and Agios Nikolaos. How long does it take to walk around Spinalonga? The circular path around the perimeter of the islet takes about 1 to 1.5 hours to walk at a leisurely pace. Allow 2 to 3 hours if you plan to climb up to the upper Venetian bastions and take photographs. Why is Spinalonga famous? Spinalonga is world-famous for its dramatic history. It served as a powerful 16th-century Venetian sea fortress, an Ottoman settlement, and later as one of Europe's last active leper colonies from 1903 to 1957. It was also the setting for Victoria Hislop's bestselling novel *The Island*.

When the West Country swelters under a summer heatwave, my mind inevitably wanders toward the frozen edges of the world. There are times when the sticky heat becomes so heavy that the only mental antidote is to summon the memory of howling sub-zero winds, vast fields of volcanic black ash, and the intense, electric-blue heart of an Icelandic glacier. Iceland is an island that strips travel down to its rawest elements. It is a landscape where earth and sky exist in a constant, dramatic tussle—where subterranean fire boils under thick sheets of ancient ice, and where you can stand on a sea-cliff with the Atlantic gale roaring in your ears, feeling utterly, delightfully small. Escaping the Heat: The Call of the Far North I spent time exploring this formidable country, venturing out across its rugged southern coast, standing at the foot of creeping glaciers, and watching icebergs drift silently across glacial lagoons toward the open ocean. When the mercury rises back home, those icy vistas remain crystal clear in my memory... One thing the now defunct airline WOW Air had arranged for me was a snowmobiling adventure that took me to the top of the spectacular Mýrdalsjökull glacier, where you can - if you are lucky - enjoy breathtaking views. Snowmobiles are easy to drive but I was glad I had a guide because there are deep crevasses everywhere and much of the vast ice-cap is amazingly featureless so it would be easy to get lost. Like every Icelander I met, the guide was a wonderful and friendly chap who spoke perfect English - though I began to wish he didn’t when, at the very top of the glacier, he told us the whole thing was sitting on a live volcano that was more than 50 years overdue blowing its top. Creeping Blue Ice and Volcanic Black Ash He said when it did the 900 feet of solid ice would melt in just two hours and the resulting explosion would be far, far, worse than the 2010 eruptions of Eyjafjallajökull which stopped Atlantic flights. So to this day I am enjoying the sunshine when I can - you never know when it’s going to be hidden behind a bloody great big cloud for years on end. Frequently Asked Questions About Visiting Iceland's Glaciers Where are the best glaciers to visit in Iceland? Vatnajökull in the southeast is Europe’s largest ice cap by volume and offers incredible glacier-tongues like Svínafellsjökull. Other popular and accessible glaciers include Mýrdalsjökull and Solheimajökull along the southern coast. Can you walk on a glacier in Iceland without a guide? No. Glacier walking requires specialist safety gear (crampons, ice axes, and harnesses) and deep local knowledge of hidden crevasses and unstable ice structure. Always join a certified local glacier guide. What is the best time of year to see Iceland’s glaciers and ice lagoons? Glaciers and lagoons like Jökulsárlón can be visited year-round. Summer offers long daylight hours, milder weather, and easy road travel along the Ring Road, while winter brings dramatic ice cave tours and chances to see the Northern Lights.

There is a distinct, intoxicating magic to the French West Indies that you simply do not find anywhere else in the Caribbean. Stepping off a boat or plane onto Martinique, the senses are hit with a heady blend of French sophistication and lush, sultry tropical vitality. The Rugged North: Mount Pelée and Black Sand Shores It is an island of dramatic contrasts: in the rugged north, the brooding volcanic peak of Mount Pelée looms above rainforest-cloaked ravines and dark sand beaches; down in the south, gentle turquoise bays lap against powdery white shores lined with swaying palms. And then, of course, there is the food and drink. Martinique is home to Rhum Agricole—distilled directly from fresh-pressed sugarcane juice rather than molasses—producing a spirit so complex and tied to its terroir that it holds its own official French AOC designation, just like Champagne or Cognac. Though primarily a visual gallery of my travels across this spectacular island, here is a taste of what makes Martinique one of the most fascinating corners of the Windward Isles. I wasn’t in Martinique long. Just long enough to get chased by a small mob. It was a long time ago that I spent a rainy afternoon on Martinique, the Caribbean island - and I am remembering it today because this lockdown period has tended to inspire more dreams than usual. And the occasional nightmare. And few nightmares are as frightening as the ones where you get chased by a mob of people. That has only happened to me once and it was because I dared take a few snaps in the market in Fort-de-France. I knew it was a sensitive area - the people there do not like cameras, but I was doing a few close ups of exotic fruit. And… Wow, had to run. Fast. Luckily I can do that - or could 18 years ago. Got back to the Star Clipper in the heavy tropical rain - and dreamed about the adventure last night. So just remembering it here and wondering when I’ll ever get the chance to go to Martinique again. I’d like to, Beautiful island from what I could see of it in the rain. But I never did get to sample the battery juice they were selling. I’ve been lucky enough to visit a lot of Caribbean islands but don’t think I’ve stayed on one as briefly as my sojourn on Martinique. 🌴 Island Fact File: Martinique at a Glance Location: Lesser Antilles, Windward Islands (nestled between Dominica to the north and Saint Lucia to the south). Status: An overseas region and department of France (part of the European Union, using the Euro €). Landscape: Volcanic and mountainous in the north (dominated by Mount Pelée, 1,397m), transitioning to rolling hills, mangrove inlets, and white-sand beaches in the south. Capital & Culture: Fort-de-France is the bustling capital, famous for its grand Schoelcher Library, covered spice market, and vibrant Creole gastronomy. Food & Drink Highlights: Rhum Agricole: World-renowned sugarcane rum (visit historic distilleries like Habitation Clément or Depaz). Accras de Morue: Crispy, spiced salt-cod fritters served with hot sauce chien. Colombo de Poulet: A rich, fragrant Creole curry influenced by 19th-century Indian arrivals. Best Time to Visit: December to May (the dry season, or Carême), offering warm sunshine and pleasant breezes. Frequently Asked Questions About Visiting Martinique What language is spoken in Martinique? French is the official language. French Creole (Kréyol) is widely spoken in daily life across the island. English is understood in major hotels and tourist hubs, but knowing a few basic French phrases goes a long way. Do British or European visitors need a visa for Martinique? Because Martinique is an overseas department of France, EU citizens do not need a visa. UK passport holders can visit visa-free for short stays (up to 90 days), though you will clear French immigration on arrival. What is Rhum Agricole and why is Martinique famous for it? Unlike standard rums made from industrial molasses, Rhum Agricole is distilled directly from pure, fresh sugarcane juice. Martinique is the only region in the world to hold a protected Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée (AOC) for its rum, producing an exceptionally fresh, herbal, and complex spirit.

If you gather a group of artisan cheesemakers and specialist mongers around a table, you quickly realise their conversation goes far beyond milk and curds. For these producers, slow food is a philosophy. It is about soil health, landscape preservation, and preserving centuries-old traditions that turn simple pasture grass into world-class food. Britain is currently enjoying a phenomenal artisan cheese renaissance. From traditional clothbound Devonian Cheddars aged in cool cellars to Dutch-style Goudas crafted on Cornish family farms, British cheesemakers are producing varieties that rival anything found on the Continent. Here is a celebration of the passion, heritage, and remarkable individuals driving the British cheese movement today. So you can imagine my surprise one day recently when I began to realise that I was turning into a real-life version of cheese-loving Mr Wallace while my young dog called Finn was looking like an authentic double for Gromit. IF YOU'RE ENJOYING THIS POST LOOK AT ANOTHER OF OUR ARTICLES ON THE SUBJECT OF CHEESE HERE It all began a couple of months ago when a small but slightly aromatic package arrived by parcel post. I am not one of those food-writers who gets inundated with the latest products, but for some reason the the UK’s oldest cheesemonger, Paxton & Whitfield, had decided to send me a selection of their new Spanish cheese range (see below). Very powerful and delicious morsels they were too - so much so I phoned the company’s pubic relations guy to thank him. We had a pleasant chat and one thing led to another, as they say. The next thing I knew I was being invited to be a judge at the British Cheese Awards 2019. The Philosophy of Slow Food and Artisan Dairy It is a great honour and I will indeed be turning up at the Royal Bath and West Show-ground in order to help judge the vast number of cheeses on display as part of this year’s Bath and West Show. But I’d better be in my best Wallace and Gromit cheese-loving mood as there will me more than 150 different cheddars alone for me to taste. Indeed, the British Cheese Awards is celebrating the enduring appeal of cheddar this year with two new awards for cheesemakers of Britain’s favourite cheese. The new awards will be for best block cheddar and for best traditional cheddar. “Cheddar is without doubt Britain’s favourite cheese,” said a man from the British Cheese Board who explained that we eat 330,000 tonnes of the stuff every year. “And its appeal is not diminishing,” he went on. “At the 2018 British Cheese Awards 155 cheddars were entered into the competition. That’s an increase of 158 per cent when compared to the first year of the awards in 1994, when 60 cheddars were entered.” By the way, some of this increase is believed to be down to characters like Wallace and Gromit who so famously loved eating cheese throughout their animated adventures. So much has this been the case, there was even a Wallace and Gromit cheese festival touring the UK ( https://wallaceandgromit.com/news/join-wallace-and-gromit-cheesefest-uk ). Julius Longman, chairman of the British Cheese Awards, told me: “Cheddar production is a major part of the British cheese industry and is not only enjoyed by consumers here in Britain, but also globally. A high number of the cheesemakers who enter their cheddars into the competition export their cheeses, helping promote this wonderful cheese throughout the world. “With its importance - and based on the number of entries we had last year - the committee decided to create two new cheddar awards so that we can celebrate all types of this delicious cheese, from cloth-bound to block produced.” From Pasture to Plate: Why Soil Health Matters for Flavour Wallace and Gromit, me, and a million other folk who love cheese are officially known as “turophiles” (a connoisseur of cheese - a cheese fancier) - and this year staff at the awards have been asking a number of leading cheddar cheesemakers what makes this particular dairy-product so appealing. Giles Barber, of Somerset-based Barber’s Farmhouse Cheesemakers, said: “Cheddar is such a versatile cheese that nothing comes close to being able to replace it. You can enjoy it on its own, in a sandwich with some good pickle or use it in recipes. It has such a universal appeal. Whilst diets and tastes have changed over the years, cheddar has been adaptable and is as relevant to today’s consumers as it’s ever been.” One thing that has changed since the British Cheese Awards were first staged in 1994, is consumer taste.. Devon cheesemaker Mary Quicke, says: “Back in 1994 most mainstream cheddar cheese was much milder. Now cheddar flavours are much more varied. For instance, we now age cheese to up to two years and select in a way we never did before for different profiles of cheese.” The cheddars available today have a much wider variety of fuller flavours, be they mild or more mature - a development which, according to industry experts, has been led by changing consumer tastes. “Another change over the past 26 years has been the increased use of technology in the production and how the cheese is matured,” said a spokesman for the awards. “All the cheesemakers we interviewed highlighted this explaining that it has helped improve the quality of the cheese.” At Somerset’s artisan Westcombe Dairy, for example, cheesemakers use a robot to turn and brush the cheeses in its purpose built maturing rooms. The robot is affectionately known as ‘Tina the Turner’… Somehow, you can imagine all sorts of shenanigans going on if Tina was to appear in a Wallace and Gromit production. I have visions of Wallace tinkering with her workings and the robot taking over the farm and the fairylands around Cheddar. But maybe I’m only having that nightmare because I’ve eaten too much cheese… RECIPES Quicke's Signature Cheese Scones “The quintessential British snack, our recipe repertoire wouldn't be complete without our signature cheese scones,” says Mary Quicke on her company’s website https://www.quickes.co.uk “ We've combined our classic Mature Clothbound Cheddar with our very own take on Red Leicester - our Quicke's Devonshire Red. But this recipe works with any of our cheeses, it's a great way to use up any left over bits of cheese you have. Spread with a thick helping of Quicke's Cows' Whey Butter and a dollop of chutney; the perfect choice for a savoury, summery afternoon tea. Ingredients 680g (24oz) plain flour 170g (6oz) Quicke's Cows' Whey Butter 285g (10oz) Quicke's Mature Clothbound Cheddar, grated 340g (12floz) milk 75g (3oz) Quicke's Devonshire Red Clothbound Cheese, grated Salt and pepper Method Heat the over to 220C/425F/Gas Mark 7. Lightly grease a baking sheet. Mix together the flour and salt and rub in the Quicke's Cows' Whey Butter. Stir in Quicke's Mature Cheddar and then the milk to form a soft dough. Turn on to a floured work surface and knead very lightly. Pat out to a round 2cm/3/4in thick. Use 5cm/2in cutter to stamp out rounds and place on the baking sheet. Lightly knead together the rest of the dough and stamp out more scones to use it all up. Brush the tops of the scones with a little milk and top with Quicke's Devonshire Red Cheese. Bake for 12-15 minutes until well risen and golden. Cool on a wire rack. Spread thickly with Quicke's Cow's Whey Butter and a good dollop of chutney. Barber’s 1833 Cheddar, Wiltshire Bacon and Garden Pea Risotto Ingredients 125g of Barber’s 1833 Vintage reserve cheddar 2 x small onions / shallots 120g garden peas 100ml dry white wine 250g risotto rice 125g butter 250g smoked bacon chunks 350/400ml vegetable stock Method Heat butter frying pan and add the onion. Fry for 5 minutes until translucent. Add the risotto rice and stir well, ensuring every grain is coated in butter. Grill bacon chunks under the grill until browned and crispy Pour in the wine and let it bubble until it’s almost all evaporated. Add the stock a ladleful at a time, stirring constantly, adding more stock only once the last ladleful has been absorbed. Bring a small pan of salted water to the boil and blanch the garden peas, remove and drain Once the rice is cooked, stir through grated Barber’s Cheddar. Stir in the bacon chunks Stir in drained peas Place a tray lined with baking parchment and sprinkled with the remaining grated cheddar under a hot grill. Grill until the cheddar is bubbling and brown. Remove from the grill and allow to cool for 4 to 5 minutes – it will crisp up Break chunks of the cheddar crisp up and place on risotto as garnish. Frequently Asked Questions About British Artisan Cheese What makes artisan British cheese different from mass-produced supermarket cheese? Artisan British cheese is crafted in small batches using traditional methods, often with raw or unpasteurised milk from single herds. Unlike factory-made cheese, artisan cheeses reflect the natural variations of seasonal grazing, soil health, and slow aging processes, resulting in far richer and more complex flavours. What are the most famous traditional British cheeses? While Cheddar is the most famous export, traditional British cheeses include Stilton, Red Leicester, Wensleydale, Cheshire, and Lancashire, as well as modern artisan varieties like Cornish Gouda and regional soft cheeses. Why is soil health so important in traditional cheesemaking? The quality and diversity of grasses, herbs, and clover in the pasture directly influence the diet of the dairy herd. This shapes the natural fats and subtle flavour profiles of the milk, which are then captured during the cheese-fermentation process.

Tamarisk Farm: Where the Animals Forget to Die Just occasionally, even after more than 50 years of journalism, someone utters something during an interview the likes of which you have never heard before. For a writer, those rare, magical moments are as joyous as hearing a pristine piece of music or smelling fresh-mown hay. I was sitting in a sunlit coastal garden on an organic farm overlooking Dorset’s Chesil Beach alongside the poet James Crowden. A weathered woman with rough, soil-stained hands was telling us about the land and her livestock when she casually delivered a line I have never forgotten. She said: “We have one or two elderly animals, like horses, that graze out in some of the fields—and sometimes I think the animals here have such a lovely life, they forget to die.” Not only has no one ever said such a thing to me before, but I drove home thinking just how incredibly rare such a thing probably is. The idea that you could have animals which are so happy they forget to die… Can you imagine that happening anywhere that produces food for a big-chain supermarket? An Organic Idyllic Overlooking Chesil Beach No. And of course it doesn’t really happen at Tamarisk Farm on the Dorset coast either. But the thing about this extraordinary place - and the people who run it - is that the visitor could almost be led into believing it could. You can almost imagine an American moviemaker turning up at West Bexington, just along the shore from Abbotsbury at a place where Chesil Beach is getting its act together, and deciding to make a film, say, about an heroic and jolly little pig using the farm as its central location. Actually, talking of pigs, there will soon be real-life Babe lookalikes romping along beside the sheep in the big wide open fields that slope down to the English Channel hereabouts - because the Pearse family who farm at Tamarisk have learned that the latest scientific research shows grazing pigs alongside sheep can be beneficial when it comes to tape-worms and other nasties. By now some hard-bitten agriculturalists might be thinking I have taken leave of my senses or was given something odd and organic to drink in my Dorset tea… But that’s not the very real and down-to-earth impression you get when talking to Josephine and Arthur Pearse, their daughter Ellen and her husband Adam, and their daughter Lila and her partner Ben, as well as Rebecca and Rosie who look after the vegetable side of the business. Sixty Years of Organic Agriculture in West Bexington The family has been here for well over half a century farming organically. Indeed, Tamarisk was one of the first registered organic farms in the country. And they’ve been so successful at it they’ve grow the business so that it now includes two neighbouring National Trust owned farms as well as their own, and covers a south-facing salty patch of land extending to some 800 acres. Joining the Soil Association in 1961: Member Number Seven Sitting in the garden talking to members of the Pearse family, it was Josephine who outlined details of some of the early times: “We bought the house in 1958, then we went to work in Nigeria for three years - and then came back because our third child was getting thinner and thinner. We came back and she blossomed. “Arthur wanted to farm three or four acres for vegetables and we went to ask the farmer if he’d sell a bit of land, but he wouldn’t. As we started to walk away I suddenly had a vision of spreading out over the land and doing things, so I turned and said: ‘Will you sell the whole lot?’ And he said he’d do that. “We were already thinking about farming organically - in Nigeria we had been growing our own food. Arthur had a lot of experience gardening as a child. As a parson’s son, he spent all of his holidays in the garden. People did use the phrase organic back then,” Josephine recalls. “Chemical free farming, But they didn’t have any standards. We joined the Soil Association in 1961 and our number is seven in the South West, so we were pretty early. “The first inspectors we had were three other organic farmers - there were very few of them, anywhere. And they came more as peer support and as an exchange of ideas. Nowadays it is an audit against a set of formal standards.” Nurturing Soil Health for Generations At this point daughter Ellen took over the story of the early years, even though she was but a child at the time: “We had a set of ideas and understanding. We know the soil is fundamental, we know the soil is extremely complex - and we know that what follows from the soil, if you have that right, then everything is going to be right. “Science continues to justify this as time goes on. The understanding of the complexities of soil is now immense - so much more than it was back then. “We had some understanding of the difficulties and dangers of the chemical practices which we didn’t like the look of - but we didn’t have the details. Everything that society thought was safe and marvellous, like DDT for example, did harm both in itself and also to the environment. We didn’t know that for sure, but we sort of guessed it. And now it’s been shown that it’s true. “DDT was only the first of a series of nasty things which chemicals have been doing - and which they’re still doing.” Ellen and husband Adam came back to live on the farm when they began having children and took the business in a more arable direction. “Adam and I re-established the arable and took on the cattle and sheep - and my parents did the vegetables. Then came a time when it was too much for them, so we brought people in to do the veg. The aim is to have a good mixture - and the reasoning for that is that everything helps everything else. Everything feeds everything else. “If you think about an arable farmer, he or she is busy at a particular time of the year, then they have times when they are not - so we fill those other times with other things. We set our timings up with lambing and calving, for example, to fit in so we have time for other things. So the farm is a kind of network in the way it all meshes together.” IF YOU'RE ENJOYING THIS POST Read my feature on nearby COGDEN BEACH This interconnection within the farm and its various agricultural systems and output is something the family takes seriously - and it goes beyond timings and the fact that manure from the cattle helps grow the vegetables. “Our daughter and Ben are looking at ways of increasing that meshing for the benefit of all the farm,” said Ellen. “For example, we will have some pigs coming soon that will run with the sheep - and we are hoping that this will help with parasites. The research has been done that shows this works.” The farm’s interconnectivity is plain to see, both in the little shop located in a barn at West Bexington and also on the website at http://tamariskfarm.co.uk where you will see a wide range of organic vegetables on sale along with grass fed beef, lamb and mutton, organic whole-grains, pulse and stoneground flour, as well as sheepskins and wool. It’s not surprising the National Trust invited them to take on the tenancies of the two neighbouring farms. Not only does the family operate in an environmentally friendly way, but they also believe in improving soils - which is exactly what they’ve been doing at the holding to the east, called Labour In Vain Farm. “A name that is not deserved,” said Ellen. “I used to think it was because of the heavy clay, but there are just three fields that have been influenced by geology and I think the whole farm was named after them. We are putting that right - we have to build up the humous - but once we do that, the soil is going to be fantastic.” So fantastic, that maybe Rebecca the vegetable gardener - who is a keen contributor to the Land Worker’s Alliance, campaigning for small scale farmers - will one day see ancient animals out at Labour In Vain, living long lives because they’re too happy to die. Frequently Asked Questions About Tamarisk Farm Where is Tamarisk Farm located? Tamarisk Farm is situated in West Bexington on the Dorset coast, nestled right alongside Chesil Beach near Abbotsbury. Is Tamarisk Farm an organic farm? Yes, Tamarisk Farm was one of the earliest registered organic farms in the UK. They joined the Soil Association in 1961 (holding member registration number 7 in the South West) and continue to farm organically across 800 acres of coastal land. What does Tamarisk Farm produce? The farm produces organic vegetables, grains, grass-fed meats (including mutton and beef), and wool products, managed in harmony with the surrounding coastal environment and National Trust land.

The Island Popularity Game: Why Bryher Sometimes Wins There are few places on earth that haunt a traveler’s daydreams quite like the Isles of Scilly. The body of this particular article was actually penned some years ago, back when my duties for the Western Morning News had me making the crossing every couple of months—a grueling assignment, as you can imagine, that left me with salt-spray in my boots and a permanent affection for this magical archipelago. Looking back through my journals, one thing remains as true today as it was then: every single rocky outcrop in Scillonia seems to demand a ranking in a sort of inter-island popularity stakes. Talk to anyone who has stepped ashore on the islands, and the odds are they will immediately announce: "Oh, so-and-so is our absolute favourite," or "X is lovely, but Y is the one we always go back to." It is like a bag of bright, colourful sweets in which you will always search out a favourite, even though they are all drawn from the same sea. Or a horse race where you cannot help but pick out a filly, even if you have no real interest in the turf. The islands present the regular visitor with a pleasantly taxing conundrum. Walk around them—as I have done endlessly over the decades—and the beauty contest heats up into a daunting, delightfully confusing obligation to assemble and re-assemble your personal pecking order. First for me it was once (and maybe still is) St Agnes where I spent some hot summer months as a freshly dropped-out teenager. Then it was St Martins with its white sand beaches and its intimate and lovely redundant flower fields being all hot and Mediterranean in the southern breeze. Then Tresco with its luxuriant gardens and general variety. But often my favourite tends to be Bryher. Even the island's soft and beautiful name is enough to make me want to return as soon as possible. One reason I love going to Bryher is because I have friends on the island. I have known David and Kathy Stedeford for a great many years and also I am very fond of calling in on the Pender family and talking about fish and catches, and seafood in general... Bryher. Neither the largest nor the smallest, not the wildest or the loneliest, not the rockiest or the greenest. But Bryher: most quintessential, most inviting and perhaps most axiomatic and characteristic of all of the Isles of Scilly. Of course perfect weather can go a long way to swaying a vote in the island popularity contest, and the heavens were just about as blue as they can get the last time I disembarked at Church Quay. Starting the Circular Walk: Clockwise from Church Quay Within a minute of stepping foot on Bryher I was doing what I'd come for: following the footpath which circumnavigates the island. Give me a choice and I tend to go clockwise - I don't know why and I'd be interested to hear other views on this peculiar aberration. But just up the hill from All Saints Church there is a path which turns sharp left offering walkers the immediate opportunity to 'do' the island in the favoured direction. Southward to Green Bay & Rushy Bay This quickly dips down into one of the most strange and beautiful corners to be found anywhere in Scilly. As you pass Veronica Farm and enter the area known as Southward, Bryher takes on an altogether Caribbean air. At Green Bay, fat juicy succulent plants cover just about everything, except for the men who come and go down narrow paths leading from the shore to sheds where boats, particularly catamarans, seem to be in the making. Then, suddenly, you're out of the St Lucia look-a-like area and onto the flanks of Samson Hill heading for Works Point, where you will see the remains of the miniature fields which have perhaps adorned these south-eastern slopes for a millennium or more. Who built the banks and tended the crops I have no idea, except for some romantic notion of hardy islanders toiling away in a salty idyll of self-sufficiency. Around the corner we come across one of Scillonia's most celebrated beaches. The south-facing white sands of Rushy Bay are among the most popular in the archipelago. Beyond, to the west, is Droppy Nose Point. This section of the path takes you around Bryher's south-west peninsula known as Heathy Hill and from the top of the aptly named mound fabulous views of the Norrard Rocks, mystical, uninhabited Samson and distant Bishops Rock Lighthouse can be enjoyed. North Across Great Porth to Hell Bay Now the way heads north around a large bay called Great Porth, past a few houses and an art gallery. This is situated in a converted pilot gig hut and it probably has the best views of any gallery in... I was going to say in England, but this isn't England and views and vistas in the Fortunate Isles are ten-a-penny. Still heading north the hiker passes the Hell Bay Hotel, which is oddly named as it is some distance from the inlet which gives it the name. But then, you wouldn't expect this splendid hostelry to take its appellation from nearby Stinking Porth. Next come the reed-beds of the island's Great Pool which, in the right season, offers fruitful opportunities for birdwatchers. Twitchers who don't like roughing it can watch the birds from the comfort of Hell Bay's ornate and luxurious lounge which definitely has the best views of any such place in Britain. Now we have a choice of proceeding onwards up the island or detouring left around Gweal Hill. That latter is worth the climb for the fantastic vistas you get from the top. Before you lies the craggy confusion of the Western Rocks. High Cliffs, Badplace Hill, and the View to Tresco Next comes Great Popplestones Bay and now we're out on the high rocky cliffs of the island's north-west corner. Someone told me that the sea never rests in Hell Bay, and they were right. Even on the hottest and calmest of summer days I have watched the ocean here stirring uneasily and creating a skirt of white water on the rocks under Badplace Hill. These places were obviously named with gruesome accuracy. But the grim hill soon brings the walker a satisfying reward as the next stretch offers some of the most pleasant hiking in Scilly. As you head back down south toward The Town (which, by-the-way, is the most exaggerated place-name I've ever come across describing, as it does, half-a-dozen dwellings) the path runs high along the side of the Tresco Channel which is a sort of fjord between the two islands. IFYOU ARE ENJOYING THIS POST CHECK OUT OUR ARTICLE ON TRESCO HERE Just a few hundred yards across this dramatic sound Cromwell's Castle sits solid and cylindrical on Tresco's rocky shore. The castle was built in 1651 when there was a fear that the Dutch might invade, but in these somewhat happier times yachts from The Lowlands and many other countries now overnight peacefully under the ramparts. As we reach the southern edge of Shipmanhead Down, so the great vista of the central Scillonian archipelago opens up and this splendid apparition alone is enough to earn Bryher a bag full of brownie points in the inter-island popularity game. Frequently Asked Questions About Visiting Bryher How do you get to the Isle of Bryher? Bryher is accessed by local passenger boat from St Mary's or the neighboring island of Tresco. Boat schedules run daily during the main holiday season and depend on tides and weather. Can you walk around the entire Isle of Bryher in one day? Yes. The circular coastal walk around Bryher is roughly 4 to 5 miles long and takes about 2 to 3 hours of steady walking, though you'll want to allow extra time to stop at beaches, local art galleries, and view points. What are the main sights to see on a walk around Bryher? Key highlights include the white sands of Rushy Bay, the dramatic Atlantic swells at Hell Bay, views of Samson and Bishop Rock from Heathy Hill, and looking across the Tresco Channel toward Cromwell's Castle. When is the best time of year to visit Bryher? Late spring through early autumn (May to September) offers the best weather for walking, boat travel, and enjoying the island's coastal scenery and outdoor cafes.

Walking down into Vienna from the vineyards above the city They say climate change may lead to the more extreme types of weather hitting these isles, and if that is the case it is probably worth studying the food habits of near neighbours who already experience huge meteorological variety. You do not have to go far to find it. Cross the Alps and descend to the great plains of the Danube in Eastern Austria and you will find yourself under the influence of a continental weather system that does not enjoy the controlling temperate effect provided by a vast ocean. So the winters are cold and the summers are hot. When I was in Vienna this summer the thermometer was measuring a stifling 39 degrees. That’s hot. Too hot. And what do the Viennese do? They reach for their cooling cucumbers, which seemed an excellent idea to me... Even the free-to-use water coolers in the excellent Ruby Lissi Hotel in the heart of town were scattered with sliced cucumbers which gave the water a curiously cooling and comforting edge. The Historic Grandeur of Viennese Coffee House Culture As we ate our way across town in the heatwave, there were salads with everything - and every salad majored on the good old cuke - always dressed with salt and always scattered with dill. Lots and lots of dill everywhere, in fact. A herb which always seems somehow cooling in its slightly anniseedy, fragrant, way. The thing about salads is that they are, for the most part, easy to make. You simply chop or slice whatever summer veg you have and consume it with some sort of dressing. So great summer salad recipes do not tend to hit the headlines or be the stuff of culinary legend. But when you have months of cold and ice each year when nothing much grows, then you need techniques and tricks which turn limited ingredients into great food. And sometimes these techniques and tricks become elevated into what you could call classic recipes. Beyond the Schnitzel: Traditional Savoury Staples In Vienna, wiener-schnitzel, goulash and apple strudel fit the famous bill and are, all three, applicable to both freezing winter conditions and sizzling summer, as long as you adapt them slightly. But there’s a fourth Viennese classic which, although famous and much loved in its home town, doesn’t travel abroad much - probably because tafelspitz translates into English as “boiled beef”. Let’s face it, if you didn’t know better and you saw boiled beef on a restaurant menu, you’d probably move on. Classic boiled beef (tafelspitz) in Vienna However, tafelspitz is surprisingly and amazingly good. - and it is easy to see how, with a few tweaks, you could adapt it either to summer or winter eating. here’s But more about Viennese food thanks to information gleaned from one of the city’s professional guides, Beatrice Aumayr. “The boiled beef tafelspitz is said to have been one of the favourite dished of our emperor Francis Joseph. You cook the meat in a bouillon with the bones so you get a nice strong stock with vegetables and onions. Then you slice the meat and eat it with spinach and potatoes and apple sauce and horseradish. It is a light meat dish. You. Can also serve the soup in which it was cooked, with the vegetables. The waxy potatoes may also have a sour cream and dill dressing. Tafelspitz is a great art and is wonderful if you do it well. “But dill potatoes with sour cream is usually served with a (Viennese) frankfurter which is actually a very light kind of sausage- that is excellent very down to earth cooking. “But the most famous dish is the wiener-schnitzel, which is actually from Lombardy,” said Beatrice. “That part of Italy belonged to Austria until 1918. In fact, Austrian food is a mixture from all our former empire countries. There was a gentleman called Field Marshal Rejetzki and he lived near Milan and was served a local dish called Côtes de veau à la milanaise. He liked it, so when he came home he had the recipe in his luggage and he began to serve it to his friends in Vienna. Selection of cooked meats in Vienna “This turned into wiener-schnitzel. What we have added to it is the potato salad for which you need waxy potatoes that you cook in their skins, then slice. You make a dressing from corn oil and vinegar with some sugar, salt and pepper. The meat is usually veal, but some people prefer pork because they say it’s juicier,” said Beatrice. “You dip it into flour then eggs then breadcrumbs. Catfish and chips in Vienna “The paprika and goulash dishes come from Hungary - as does the apple-strudel - but really it was from Turkey before that. The people were eating a lot of meat,” she added. “Our food can be heavy and if you eat it on a very hot day you can get tired. But our winters were extremely cold and because there were no fridges the people were depending on the meat in winter. Probably too much. “Also popular is venison roasted with a pepper sauce the is served with dumplings and cranberries. We have a lot of black pudding as well and that we eat that with rosti. Brawn we eat with apple vinegar, which you can also get as a balsamic type. We call the brawn a souse, and we put salt, pepper and vinegar on it. The classic Viennese sausage “It’s filling food, but at the end of the day it’s not what you eat - it’s how much you eat,” said Beatrice. “The restaurants have begun to learn not to serve too big a portion because they want you to eat a starter and a main course so it’s more manageable. And we are good at puddings as well, so don’t miss out on those. “Apart from apple-strudel, Kaiserschmarrn is a soft, fluffy pancake ripped into bites and slightly roasted in a pan, served with compote, applesauce or stewed plums.” Poppy seed and plum cakes Discovering the True Flavours of Austria's Capital I liked the food in Vienna and, having now visited Austria. Both in freezing winter conditions and in a relentless heatwave, can report that the cuisine does a very good job of supporting one’s gastronomic requirements, whatever the weather. Recipe Classic Tafelspitz (boiled beef) Ingredients: 1 round of beef (topside), approx. 2 kg (with a little fat) approx. 750 g beef bones 3 carrots 3 turnips/parsnips 1 small celeriac 1 onion 2 bay leaves 10 peppercorns 2 juniper berries salt chopped chives for decoration Preparation: Fill a large pot with about 5 litres of cold water and boil the bones. Remove the sinew and skin from the beef but leave the fat on. Place the meat, bay leaves, peppercorns and juniper berries in the water and simmer just below boiling point on low heat for about 2–2 1/2 hours, regularly skimming off the fat. Halve the unpeeled onion, and fry, without fat, on the cut surface until dark brown. Cut vegetables into large cubes and add with the onion to the meat. Simmer for another hour until the meat is really tender. Remove the meat, strain the soup, and put the meat back in the soup for a while. Take note: as long as the meat is sitting in the soup, don’t add salt, otherwise it will become red and dry up. Slice the meat, and arrange on a warmed plate. Pour over a little soup, add salt to taste, and sprinkle with chives. Serve with extra-crispy fried potatoes, chive sauce and apple-horseradish sauce. Cooking time: Depending on the quality of the beef, 3–3 1/2 hours Frequently Asked Questions About Viennese Cuisine What is the most famous food in Vienna? While the iconic Wiener Schnitzel (a thin, breaded, and deep-fried veal cutlet) is undoubtedly Vienna's most famous dish, the city's culinary heritage is incredibly diverse. Other definitive national dishes include Tafelspitz (succulent boiled beef served with horseradish and apple) and rich, slow-cooked Austrian goulash. Why is Vienna's coffee house culture so famous? Viennese coffee houses are celebrated globally because they are treated as extended living rooms rather than just quick places to drink espresso. Officially recognized by UNESCO as an intangible cultural heritage, these historic spaces encourage patrons to sit for hours with a single coffee, a newspaper, and a piece of traditional cake like Sachertorte. What should food lovers buy at the Vienna Naschmarkt? The Naschmarkt is Vienna's most celebrated food market, stretching for over half a mile. It is the perfect place to sample local Austrian cheeses, regional wines, freshly baked bread, Falafel, and unique Viennese sweets, offering a vibrant cross-section of both traditional and international flavours. A Viennese take on steak tartare

Exploring the countryside is one of the greatest joys of walking. You can revisit a place you know intimately and yet find a footpath that leads you into a part of it you've never experienced before — suddenly revealing breathtaking views you never knew existed. Another enchanting aspect of walking is discovering unexpected connections: a familiar town or village approached from a completely new direction, allowing you to see it with fresh eyes. 🌲🏙 A Magical Walk Around Minehead 🏜️ Recently, I embarked on such an adventure with my daughter and her boyfriend. Our walk took us out of Minehead, across the hills that lie to the south of this beautiful seaside town. Minehead is surrounded by steep ridges: to the west lies North Hill, a favourite for walkers as it hosts the start of the South West Coast Path. (To see more Exmoor walks click here) However, the ridge to the south offers equally spectacular hiking with views over both the coastline and the dramatic Avill Valley, stretching towards Dunkery Beacon, the highest point on Exmoor. Cher: A Quirky Starting Point 🎤 We started our walk from Minehead town centre, heading up to a location called Cher. The name may make you think of the famous singer, but it has nothing to do with her! Cher is an ancient place, rich in history, where the Minehead Hobby Horse has performed its May Day rituals for centuries. It’s a strange spectacle, and I remember watching it years ago, wondering how long it would endure in the face of modern sensibilities. From Cher, we crossed the main road and headed up the steep lane that leads to Hopcott Common. The climb soon takes you into the woods, and after a while, the road gives way to a car park where various tracks lead upwards. To reach our goal, we took the righthand paths, which brought us through an ancient beech hedge, eventually opening up onto the heaths of Hopcott Ridge. Panoramic Views Over West Somerset 🗻 Up on Hopcott Ridge, we were rewarded with magnificent views of Minehead below, as well as the entire vale of West Somerset, which stretches towards the distant Quantock Hills. Turning left, we continued along the ridge, where more and more of the vale revealed itself. On our right, we caught glimpses of the Avill Valley and the rising hills of Vinegar Hill and Gallox Hill, crowned by ancient fort ruins. The wide ridge track eventually led us to Grabbist, the famous hill that inspired Mrs. Cecil Frances Alexander to write the hymn "All Things Bright and Beautiful." Nearing Dunster, we found a steep path cutting down through the trees on Grabbist's southern slope — a challenging but rewarding descent that brought us to the outskirts of the village. Exploring Dunster: A Historic Village 🏭 Once at the foot of Grabbist, we headed towards Gallox Bridge, where my daughter had parked her car. This area offers many options to continue exploring: you can visit the ancient clapper bridge, walk along the River Avill beneath Dunster Castle, or head to the village’s main car parks. From there, you can choose between taking a bus or the West Somerset Railway back to Minehead — or extend your adventure by walking along the West Somerset Coast Path back to Minehead seafront. No matter which option you choose, this walk offers a unique and rewarding experience, showcasing unusual and dramatic views of some of the best-known spots in West Somerset. Fact File ✉️ Route: Minehead over Hopcott Common to Dunster, returning by bus, steam train, or the West Somerset Coast Path Distance: One-way walk of 4 miles; 6+ miles if returning via the coast Difficulty: Easy going on well-maintained tracks, with a steep initial climb to Hopcott 👌 Beyond the Woods, the Foresters At the base of Grabbist Hill, you’ll find the Forester Arms — a cozy local pub in Dunster with great food and drinks. Forester Arms Dunster Liking the Luttrell 🏰 In the heart of Dunster lies the famous Luttrell Arms, a historic inn offering delicious meals in a charming setting. Luttrell Arms All Ashore for the Ship Aground 🚢 If you prefer to dine back in Minehead, the Old Ship Aground near the quay is a fantastic option for lunch or a snack. The Old Ship Aground Embark on this lovely walk and discover a new perspective of West Somerset — it’s an adventure that’s sure to leave you with lasting memories. 😍🌿

They call it the view that launched a thousand crashes, and tragically, it's all too true: Dunster Castle has claimed lives as motorists slam on their brakes to take in the breathtaking sight. The Spellbinding View of Dunster Castle Dunster Castle sits just off the main Minehead road The view appears as a stunning surprise when driving on the A39 towards Minehead from Carhampton. Suddenly, there it is: the great castle hanging above Dunster Lawns, as if straight out of a fairy tale. This panorama truly captures the essence of the old market town nestled between the hills, the castle, and the sea. It is a show-stopper, one of those places in the West Country that exudes a magic all of its own. Dunster: A Picture-Perfect West Country Jewel 🌃 Dunster is, arguably, the crown jewel among the West Country's scenic honey-pots. Point your camera anywhere in this picturesque village, and you'll capture a timeless shot. The famous Yarn Market, which dominates the main street, is one of the most photographed structures in the region. Back in 1823, William Hazlitt described Dunster: "Eyeing it wistfully as it lay below us, contrasted with the woody scene around, it looked as clear, as pure, as embrowned and ideal as any landscape I have seen since..." Walk around Dunster today, and it's easy to agree with Hazlitt. The charm is palpable. A Hymn-Worthy Landscape 👨‍🌄 Just over a century ago, Mrs. Cecil Frances Alexander was so enchanted that she wrote the famous hymn "All Things Bright and Beautiful" while sitting on Grabbist, the hill that serves as Dunster's backdrop. Dunkery Beacon, rising beyond the Avill Valley, may not be exactly a "purple headed mountain," but the sentiment rings true enough. A Village of Timeless Appeal ⏳ Dunster is as historic as it is beautiful, and it attracts day-trippers like a magnet. Yet, it has remained resilient against the pressures of mass tourism. The National Trust plays a significant role here, owning Dunster Castle and managing traffic to help preserve the village's charm. The Trust's car park, conveniently located just off the main road, alleviates much of the congestion in the village. The Castle That Dominates All 🏰 The sight of Dunster Castle perched on its knoll is ever-present, following you wherever you wander in the village. Originally established in 1067, this ancient fortress has ruled over Dunster for almost a thousand years. Its presence looms large, omnipotent even on the darkest winter nights. The Luttrell family lived in the castle for centuries until Colonel Sir Walter Luttrell gifted it to the National Trust in 1976. Though times have changed, the influence of the castle remains palpable, and the sense of power from this ancient seat still lingers. Legends of Lady Elizabeth and a Naked Ride 🚃 Dunster is steeped in history, filled with legends and anecdotes. One such tale tells of Lady Elizabeth de Mohun, who rode naked at dawn to claim land for the villagers after her husband made the daring condition. Grateful townsfolk supposedly averted their eyes, but, well, that part might be stretching it! Rolling History Under Dunster's Castle Walls 🛠️ From mediaeval masons building the grand church and priory to Benedictine monks silently filing past the Nunnery, a pageant of history has unfolded beneath the castle walls. Even King Charles II, escaping the plague, found temporary refuge here. The history of Dunster is woven with stories of packmen, farmers' wives spinning yarn, and ancient market dealings under the iconic Yarn Market roof. Today, the village might not have a grocery store, but its gift shops still offer a charming, tourist-friendly experience. The Village That Time Couldn't Spoil 🚗🗿 Though cars now fill the historic streets, Dunster has managed to keep the modern world at bay. The old centre remains untouched by sprawling developments, and every year during the candle-lit Christmas festival, the village offers a glimpse of its magical past. It's a shame the bypass never happened – the High Street remains cluttered with vehicles. But if you imagine it car-free, you get a sense of the wonder that Dunster once held and still manages to evoke. Hidden Gems of Dunster 💎 A Few Things You Didn't Know: A legend that a giant was locked in a dungeon turned out to be partly true – a manacled skeleton was uncovered during the last century in Dunster Castle's Gatehouse. Dunster once had a port called "The Hawn," which still exists in some form, though now it's landlocked and inhabited by ducks. There is a reputed tunnel from the Castle to Conygar Tower, the hilltop folly that crowns the woodland opposite the village. Thomas Hardy's novel "A Laodicean" was set in Dunster, although it remains one of his lesser-known works. The villagers still recall their very own ogre with the "Giant's Seat" high on Grabbist, from where the friendly giant was said to wave and help dry their washing! Dunster's deep history and enchanting scenery make it a must-visit location on any Westcountry itinerary. Come for the views, stay for the legends, and watch out as you round that bend on the A39! 🌱