Appledore, North Devon: A Guide to the Historic Fishing Village on the Taw & Torridge Estuary

Few of us ever put the places we visit into categories, but if we did they’d probably come under headings covering the locations we have to visit, like local supermarkets, shops, dentists, hospitals, whatever, and destinations we really like visiting, such as favourite holiday spots, theatres, cinemas, hiking locations etc. There’d be another category for me entitled, “Places I cannot resist visiting when I’m on my way somewhere else”.

The Irresistible Charm of Appledore, Devon

Appledore is one such place. Rarely have I driven the 53 miles from my home especially to visit Appledore, and Appledore alone - but I have lost count of the times when I’ve been exploring elsewhere in Devon or North Cornwall, and been tempted to leave the A39 at the Northam-Bideford roundabout to drive the two miles to this charming estuarine harbour village.

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Appledore: A Village, Not a Town

Did I say “town”? Sorry. Back in 2002 when I did visit Appledore specifically to write an entire newspaper feature about the place, I was told in no uncertain terms that it is not a town, but a village. Which surprised me because not only is Appledore quite a large place to have such a diminutive label, it seems to get bigger as you stroll around its many streets and alleys.

Discovering the Hidden Depths of Irsha Street

Last week I was once again amazed by Appledore’s Dr Who police box ability to seem much larger than you’d suspect. I was walking along Irsha Street, which I had assumed from sailing past the port several times aboard the MS Oldenburg, was just a shortish thoroughfare that led nowhere. It turns out that, as humble byways go, Irsha Street is a lovely lane that stretches for an impressive half-mile before giving way to the sea.

Maritime History and Coastal Pubs: The Spirit of Irsha Street

A salty alley that boasts, not one, but two public houses (The Beaver Inn and The Royal George) and more maritime history in its little finger than most streets can shake a spinnaker at.

A Stroll Through Appledore’s Historic Streets

I was driving back from North Cornwall when I promised some friends that we’d break the journey with a stroll around Appledore. We parked on the waterfront and began our visit with a walk down tiny Market Street and some of its offshoot byways such as Bude Street, at the top of which stands the magnificent Appledore Maritime Museum.

Local Flavours: From Sylvester’s Fish and Chips to John’s Deli

I can also recall an Apple Tree Mews, Gibbs Lane, a One End Street, and a Meeting Street. The latter plays host to a tiny but excellent chippie, called Sylvester’s Fish and Chips.

I was in the mood for a piece of hot fried fish and while the guy cooked it fresh, he told me about his collection of cars - Fiat 500s, Citroen 2CVs, and the like while also giving me the background to one of the strangest shop windows I’ve seen in a long while, full of mannikins and weird objets d’art.

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A Glimpse into Appledore’s Quirky Charm and Property Market

It was a great piece of fish - but if I hadn’t had a burning desire for it, I would definitely have lunched at John’s Deli on the main harbour-side road, which was once named the best delicatessen in the UK, and probably still is.

Looking up the prices of the one or two small waterside homes for sale, I also began to realise that this quaint and salty area has become highly fashionable - £half-a-million for a one-reception two-bedroom home anyone?

The Allure of Appledore’s Estuary Views

Not surprising, I guess, given its proximity to one of the most impressive estuary systems in the South West. Even back in the 19th century, a well-known gazetteer saw fit to describe the place as thus:

“Appledore has long been the resort of the neighbouring gentry, when they wish to inhale its breezes and bathe in its pellucid waters. The sea views are remarkably fine, and the walks and rides in the vicinity of the town partake of all that romantic scenery for which the northern coast of Devon has ever been so much admired.”

A Glimpse into Appledore’s Maritime Past

Irsha Street was once a very different place, filled with boatbuilders who made some of the finest wooden sailing vessels to be found anywhere around the shores of the Atlantic. I recall being told that Appledore used to be one of the country’s biggest tobacco-importing ports—a curious claim and one I’d like to know more about.

Windswept Beauty: Walking Around The Stern and Northam Burrows

Puffing on nothing but the Atlantic breeze, we continued our walk around an estuarine bay known as The Stern, and out onto wonderful, windswept Northam Burrows.

Why I Always Find Time for Appledore

There are places you plan to visit and places that somehow keep calling you back. Appledore falls firmly into the second category. I've lost count of the number of times I've been driving through North Devon with every intention of pressing on towards Westward Ho!, Clovelly or Hartland, only to find myself turning off for "just half an hour."

Half an hour, of course, is never enough.

There's something about Appledore that encourages you to slow your pace. Perhaps it's the maze of narrow lanes, where every corner reveals another whitewashed cottage, a brightly painted front door or a glimpse of the estuary sparkling between the houses. Perhaps it's the smell of salt carried in on the tide, mingling with fresh coffee and fish and chips from the quayside. Or perhaps it's simply the knowledge that this is a village which has never forgotten its seafaring roots.

I enjoy wandering without any particular destination, peering into tiny galleries, browsing independent shops and stopping to watch the ebb and flow of life on the waterfront. The tides transform the whole scene from hour to hour, giving photographers endless opportunities and ensuring no two visits ever feel quite the same.

In an age when so many seaside resorts compete for attention with ever bigger attractions, Appledore's greatest strength is that it doesn't seem to try very hard at all. It remains wonderfully authentic, quietly confident in its history and character. For me, that's precisely its charm—and the reason I suspect I'll keep making those "unexpected" detours for many years to come.

Frequently Asked Questions About Visiting Appledore, North Devon

Where is Appledore?

Appledore is a historic fishing village in North Devon, situated where the Rivers Taw and Torridge meet before flowing into Bideford Bay. It lies just a few miles from Bideford, Instow and the seaside resort of Westward Ho!, making it an ideal base for exploring the North Devon coast.

Is Appledore worth visiting?

Absolutely. Appledore is one of North Devon's most charming villages, with colourful cottages, narrow lanes, a bustling quay, fascinating maritime history and beautiful estuary views. It's perfect for a leisurely stroll, a seafood lunch or simply soaking up its timeless atmosphere.

What is Appledore famous for?

Appledore has been an important fishing and shipbuilding centre for centuries. Today it is renowned for its picturesque waterfront, independent galleries, welcoming cafés, traditional pubs and the excellent North Devon Maritime Museum.

What are the best things to do in Appledore?

Visitors can wander the narrow streets, explore Irsha Street, browse independent shops and galleries, visit the Maritime Museum, enjoy fresh seafood on the quay, walk along the estuary or take a seasonal ferry across to Instow.

Is there parking in Appledore?

Yes. Several public car parks serve the village, including parking close to the quayside. During the summer holidays and on sunny weekends they can become busy, so arriving early is a good idea.

Can you walk from Appledore to Northam Burrows?

Yes. One of the area's most enjoyable walks follows the estuary towards Northam Burrows Country Park, offering magnificent views across the Taw and Torridge Estuary towards Instow and Bideford Bay.

Is there a ferry between Appledore and Instow?

Yes. A seasonal passenger ferry usually operates between Appledore and Instow, providing a delightful way to explore both villages. It is advisable to check operating times before travelling, as services are weather and tide dependent.

Is Appledore dog friendly?

Yes. Dogs are welcome throughout much of the village and on many nearby walking routes. Several cafés and pubs also welcome well-behaved dogs, making Appledore a popular destination for visitors travelling with pets.

When is the best time to visit Appledore?

Appledore is delightful throughout the year, but late spring, summer and early autumn offer the best weather for exploring the waterfront, walking the estuary and enjoying outdoor cafés. High tide brings the harbour to life, while sunsets over the estuary can be particularly memorable.

Why should I visit Appledore instead of busier Devon resorts?

Unlike some of Devon's larger seaside towns, Appledore has retained its authentic fishing village character. Its peaceful atmosphere, maritime heritage, colourful cottages and welcoming community make it one of North Devon's true hidden gems.