Winter in a historic European lakeside city can often be a somber, grey affair, but the Swiss city of Lucerne has found a spectacular way to conquer the dark post-festive blues. Every January, the city transforms into a brilliant open-air art gallery for the annual Lilu Light Festival Lucerne. For eleven days, international light artists illuminate the historic squares, bridges, facades, and narrow alleyways of the Old Town, drawing thousands of visitors out into the crisp evening air. I was fortunate enough to experience this winter magic firsthand, watching the lakeside vistas come alive. Standing by the dark lake basin, looking out across the water towards the artfully illuminated skyline, you realize that some cities are simply built for the winter light. Called the Lilu Festival of Lights, it featured an array of both Swiss and international artists showcasing illumination in all its fascinating facets. Every evening during the festival you could walk through the city between 6pm and 10pm and be enthralled by the luminous artworks. And enthralled I was, because I hadn’t really seen this sort of art-form staged en-masse before - but I am certain I will again. I say that because this is obviously a new kind of art - one that would have been impossible to design or stage just a few years ago before small but powerful computer-operated projectors were invented. Shining a New Light on Historic Swiss Architecture Basically, these machines allow an artist to do much more than simply throw a beam of coloured light at a surface of a building or at an item such as a sculpture. To take the example of one of the smallest installations in Lucerne, you can cast lights and illuminated moving shapes onto an ancient statue in a historic square - and so turn the cold stone monument into a kind of living object alive with kinetic texture. Or you can build a large temporary stage in a lake-side park and tell an entire illuminated story complete with sound effects. The most gobsmacking of all the illuminations was to be found in one of Lucerne’s massive old churches where a truly spectacular light-show - beamed across the giant vaulted roof - was accompanied by the most amazing music and sounds. The 25-minute show made you feel as though you knew what time-travel could mean. Capturing the Magic of the Lilu Light Festival I have been fortunate enough to visit Lucerne many times, but never before have I seen the historic city like this. It was thrilling and thought provoking - which is why I can imagine that many larger towns and cities might soon be staging such events in the future. But enjoying the light festival was only one of my winter treats in this special area. Based for a few nights at the majestic and altogether wonderful Hotel Schweizerhof, located right on the lakeside close to the city-centre, I was able to soak up the best Lucerne has to offer, like the riverside market in the January sunshine and a memorable lunch at the Hotel Wilden Mann, which is one of the oldest hostelries in the region. The Hotel Schweizerhof, by the way, is a grand and classy establishment that has the vibe of being reminiscent of a bygone and more elegant age. Think grand ballrooms and grand pianos in the lounge. They serve excellent food too - which they also do at the Wilden Mann where I’ve had lunch several times before. Both do classic Swiss cuisine - which is no bad thing, especially when it comes to exceptional soups and salads. I’ll tell you somewhere else that does good food in the area - or rather, 7000 feet above the city centre. And it brings me to the second part of my short city-break in Lucerne this winter. If you travel just five minutes by bus from the city centre to the southern edge of Lucerne you can alight at a stop which is just a short walk to the cable car that will take you up Mount Pilatus. What you are about to enjoy is one of the best cable car journeys in the Alps - and I say that because the views all the way up are among the most amazing in all of Europe. That is because 7000 foot high Mount Pilatus stands alone, unlike most mountains in the Alps which are, of course, connected to other surrounding peaks. We’re at the northern edge of the main massif of mountains here, so everything north and west is located far lower down on an undulating plain that descends eventually to Zurich and the German border. Directly beneath the mountain, there’s Lucerne and its beautiful lake. Then, once you’ve reached the summit on the exhilarating cable car ride, you can look south and see a massive panorama of alpine peaks stretching east to west. This is made all the more dramatic because every side of Mount Pilatus drops away steeply. Far too steep for any skiing. So there you are, right up there close to the heavens with nothing but fresh mountain air in every direction. A fact which makes it all the more amazing that there’s not one, but two hotels up here. I stayed one night at the cosy Mount Pilaus Kulm and enjoyed every minute of it. Not only did my the window of my warm and snug bedroom (just as well it was snug given it was minus 20 degrees outside) give me truly splendid mountain views, but I was also treated to a massive and delicious seven course meal up there halfway to heaven. And, talking about heaven, I also managed to visit to one of my favourite villages in the world while on the brief January trip. Vitznau is located at what seems to be the far eastern end of the lake opposite Lucerne - and it’s a truly wonderful ferry ride that will take you here. Especially if you have booked a three course lunch aboard one of the ferries that plies the lake 365 days of the year. Indeed, if you were really pressed for time while visiting the city and you wanted to do just one thing, I would suggest catching a ferry to Vitznau. Lunch on board or no lunch - the surprisingly upmarket meal is just a bonus. The real deal is travelling slowly and gracefully through some of the most beautiful mountain scenery in Europe. You call at Weggis for one thing - where Mark Twain lived for a short while, claiming it was the most beautiful village in the world. But Weggis doesn’t have the incredible Mount Riga railway and Vitznau does. That alone - and the opportunity to trundle all the way to the top of another stand-alone mountain views - gets the village my vote. The Lucerne area is a winter-wonderland of a place in January when the Lilu Festival of Lights is on, but it’s just as fabulous at any time of year in my opinion. Switzerland - the Alpine region, indeed - at its best… FACT FILE For more information on Switzerland visit www.MySwitzerland.com or call Switzerland Travel Centre on the International freephone 00800 100 200 30 or e-mail, for information info.uk@myswitzerland.com; for packages, trains and air tickets sales@stc.co.uk. Swiss International Air Lines SWISS offers more than 170 weekly flights from London City, Heathrow, Gatwick (seasonal), Manchester and Birmingham, to Zurich or Geneva. One way fares start from £67. For more information visit swiss.com or call 0345 601 0956 Swiss Travel System The Swiss Travel System provides a dedicated range of travel passes and tickets exclusively for visitors from abroad. Frequently Asked Questions About Lucerne's Light Festival When does the Lilu Light Festival in Lucerne take place? The Lilu Light Festival Lucerne takes place annually over eleven days in mid-January. The installations are typically illuminated each evening between 6:00 pm and 10:00 pm, transforming the cold winter nights into a vibrant celebration of light art. Do you need a ticket to visit the Lucerne Light Festival? The vast majority of the light installations scattered across the Old Town and the lakefront are completely free to view and explore on foot. However, specific indoor multi-sensory light shows—such as the popular signature performances hosted inside the historic Baroque Jesuit Church—require a ticket booked in advance. Is Lucerne worth visiting during the winter? Absolutely. Beyond its proximity to world-class alpine ski resorts, Lucerne embraces the winter season with a cozy, welcoming atmosphere. Events like the Lilu Light Festival, combined with traditional lakeside restaurants serving authentic Swiss fondue and raclette, make it an enchanting winter city-break destination.

Television advertisements have come a long way - look back and many were eye-wateringly bad, while some of the epic Christmas adverts today could win movie awards. But there were one or two memorable mini-masterpieces that hit screens in the 1960s and 70s - one of the first stand-out artistic creations being an evocative Dubonnet advertisement showing a young woman walking through gorgeous French countryside, backed by Canteloube’s haunting Shepherd’s Song. I was too young to taste Dubonnet at the time, and never have since - but I can still remember sitting in a bleak UK council estate in winter dreaming of the delights of a balmy Southern France. For most viewers, the advertisement didn't so much sell some obscure alcoholic drink as convey a superior, warmer, more exotic, romantic lifestyle. Years later, I found myself capturing exactly that elusive dream, enjoying a sun-drenched picnic deep in the Provençal hills with a group of traveling companions, working our way through wonderful local French food and wine in the strong heat of an autumn sun. It was one of those grab-this-and-keep-it-forever moments. Maybe it was the cool and surprisingly delicious Provençal rosé, but I lay there thinking that it might well be that life would never, ever, be quite as good as this again. That sense of timeless romance was something I felt time and again during my stay at an amazing, breathtakingly good hotel called Crillon Le Brave. A Luxury Hotel Built Across a Medieval Village It was one of those grab-this-and-keep-it-forever moments. Maybe it was the cool and surprisingly delicious Provencal rose, but I lay there thinking that it might well be that life would never, ever, be quite as good as this again. But then, that was something I felt time and again during the long weekend I spent at an amazing, breathtakingly, good hotel called Crillon Le Brave. Its staff had laid on the picnic, brought us the bikes so we would could cycle through beautiful countryside to the picturesque old quarry (where they used to get the sand to make Perrier and, for all I know, Dubonnet bottles), and generally arranged our every need and happiness for days on end. Of all the hotels in all the world, I end up writing about this one… It’s rare that I concentrate on just one establishment. I will this time, though, because I was so impressed and because all this luscious loveliness is just a two hour flight from the UK.. Let me describe the basics of Crillon Le Brave to give you some idea of why I should write about just one hotel…. Most of us know and love the type of medieval hilltop villages they go in for around the Mediterranean. Southern France is rich in them, as are parts of Spain and Italy. But, although beautiful to look at, they can sometimes feel austere and unwelcoming - which is actually part of their nature because that is what they were designed to be in more troubled times. Now imagine the concept of buying-up almost the entire upper half of such a village, and turning the various historic houses, barns, turrets and other sundry buildings into a single boutique hotel. Throw in a good swimming pool with views out over the valley, add a couple of amazing restaurants, revamp each and every one of the old homes and decorate them with different classy traditional French themes, and what you end up with is something unique and un-copy-able. Like Crillon Le Brave. Provençal Gastronomy and World-Class Cheese Located 25 miles northeast of Avignon, the 36-bedroom hotel looks out over miles and miles of vineyards and olive groves. The stunning views are dominated by vast Mount Ventoux, which all keen cyclists will know only too well (think: Tour de France). What drew me to the place, you may not be surprised to hear, was not the cycling but the promise of delicious food. Whether feasting on a gourmet dinner at the hotel's signature fine-dining establishment, La Madeleine, celebrating local, rustic produce at Bistrot 40k, or having a casual breakfast at La Grange, I was hugely delighted by the extensive traditional French fare on offer at this five-star hotel. Cheese features large, and Crillon Le Brave’s resident Maître fromagère Claudine Vigier, “curates” the extensive selection daily - all sourced from her local cheese shop in Carpentras. Claudine recommended me to try fourme des dentelles affiné au Beaumes de Venise (blue cheese flavoured with muscat de Beaumes de Venise), le dartagnant affiné au marc de Châteauneuf du Pape (cow milk, ripened with Châteauneuf du Pape wine), the secret de Provence ripened with Ventoux truffles, and the Tournesol with raisins and infused with bourbon. In an attempt to work-off all that cheese and explore the surrounding area, the team at Crillon le Brave arranged our cycle ride to Bedoin, a popular neighbouring village spot boasting a local market. We did not, thank God, ride up Mont Ventoux, but enjoyed our picnic instead. Then it was a lazy pedal over to the charming village of Mormoiron, home to beautiful old fountains and a good deal of wine production. Wine Tasting in the Shadow of Mont Ventoux The Ventoux Vineyards make up only a portion of Crillon le Brave’s impressive 35-page wine list, put together by the hotel’s resident wine sommelier, Benoit Liébus who gave us one of the most interesting talks on local viniculture that’s its been my pleasure to enjoy. Among the wines we tasted with Benoit were Vin de pays du Vaucluse viognier, Domaine du tix 2015 blanc, Ventoux, Terrasses d’éole, Mistrau, 2014 rouge, Ventoux, and Domaine de Fondrèche, 2016 rosé. Oddly enough, we were not offered Dubonnet. However, the wonderful Gallic dream which that company’s old TV advert promised all those years ago rang out long and loud for me the other day long after the picnic. As I lay in my immense bed in a classily converted room high in the ancient village I could swear I heard some distant voice singing Canteloube’s Shepherd Song out there in the warm moonlight. FACT FILE To book, email reservations@crillonlebrave.com, or telephone +33 (04) 90 65 61 61; www.crillonlebrave.com There are regular flights from various UK airports ( including Bristol Airport) to Marseille (one hour’s drive from Crillon Le Brave) and Nice (2.5 hours) at certain times of the year on Easy Jet. Frequently Asked Questions About Crillon Le Brave Where is the hotel Crillon Le Brave located? Crillon Le Brave is a luxury five-star boutique hotel located in the Vaucluse department of southeastern France, roughly 25 miles northeast of Avignon. The hotel is situated in a stunning medieval hilltop village overlooking regional vineyards, olive groves, and the famous Mont Ventoux. What makes the layout of Crillon Le Brave unique? Unlike traditional hotels housed within a single building, Crillon Le Brave occupies almost the entire upper half of a historic medieval village. The hotel's 36 bedrooms, suites, and common areas are seamlessly integrated into a cluster of interconnected historic stone houses, barns, and village turrets. Can you go wine tasting near Mont Ventoux? Yes. The region surrounding Mont Ventoux is renowned for its exceptional viniculture. Crillon Le Brave offers access to a spectacular selection of local Ventoux and Rhône Valley vintages, often accompanied by expert guided tastings from the hotel's resident sommelier.

Hidden away on Cornwall's beautiful Lizard Peninsula, Church Cove is one of those rare places that seems almost untouched by time. A medieval church sits just yards from the sand, Atlantic waves crash onto nearby Dollar Cove, and the South West Coast Path threads its way across magnificent cliffs. This is one of Cornwall's most atmospheric walks, combining history, wildlife and breathtaking coastal scenery. Why Church Cove is One of Cornwall's Hidden Treasures Imagine a church made of wine. There are such things dotted around the world on coasts where sailors have been close to drowning. Having survived they build a shrine in thanks to their Lord, and if the ship in which they were travelling happens to have been carrying wine – they ritualistically pour some into the mortar mix. There’s a lonely church with a similar yarn in Cornwall - St Winwaloe’s is at Gunwalloe, on the west coast of the Lizard peninsula and it is probably closer to the sea than any other church in the West Country. When the tide is up and there’s a blow from the west, spray must beat against its ancient door, which is situated just a few feet above and beyond the sandy acres of Church Cove. While staying at the amazing Mullion Cove Harbour apartments, we enjoyed this walk exploring the region south of Halzephron Cliff along the littoral to the south of Mullion Cove, taking in Church Cove and its temple and neighbouring Poldhu Cove. Starting the Walk at Gunwalloe To find the area in question, travel south from Helston alongside the giant Culdrose airbase and turn right, taking signs for Gunwalloe. This is a cul-de-sac of a lane that takes you down to the coast. At the end of this road you’ll come to Church Cove. Once there, you’ll see a large car park behind the farm at Winnianton - and one walking option is to do the short but highly enjoyable figure-of-8 hike that took me just over an hour. IF YOU ENJOY THIS ARTICLE, CHECK OUT OUR OTHER CORNISH HIKES HERE And what an hour it was – one of those bright-light-treatment jobs that make you feel exhilarated to be alive. First though, the boring bit. I walked back up the hill I’d just driven down so that I could reach the top of Halzephron Cliff and turn south once again. This is not so bad as you may think because, after a narrow bit, the roadside sward widens into a pleasant path. Eventually the road reaches the cliff-side and this is where you turn sharp left along the coast path. It’s called Halzephron by the way, because the prefix comes from the Cornish “als” – or Hell (“ephron” comes from the Cornish “yfarn” for cliff). And hell it is – or would be if you happened to be swashing about the base of the cliff in a storm. Many ships have come to grizzly ends below these crags. The coast path takes you out along this small but fearsome headland and around the point at Pedngwinian. Now the path turns south east to descend slowly around the ramparts of a rough, rocky beach called Jangye-ryn. CHECK OTHER SOUTH WEST COAST PATH ARTICLES HERE You are now back to more-or-less where you parked your car, but do not think of going home yet because next comes one of the strangest and most unexpected bits of the Cornish coast. Jangye-ryn is separated from Church Cove by the small but noble headland which protects St Winwaloe from the waves. The Church of the Storms This promontory raises its grassy and flower-strewn head on a 60 foot shoulder of rock that ascends abruptly from the salty lowlands that lurk behind both beaches and play host to the church. Apparently there was a settlement here way back on Domesday times and there was a church of sorts – but the present building dates back to around the 14th or 15th centuries. I walked around the mini-headland so that I could enjoy aerial views of both bays and the church and its graveyard. One of the oddest things about St Winwaloe is that its small tower is completely separate from the main building, being set snug against the steep inner bank of the headland. It’s an incredibly romantic place – if I were to shoot a movie about swashbuckling smugglers of yore, I’d definitely use the church as a location. The sense of romance is somewhat underlined by the wedding confetti which blows about in the wind near the gate – certainly it would seem to be a suitably enigmatic place in which to get hitched. Noticing a public right of way ascending inland from the church up over the gold course, I climbed the National Trust owned Towans (as the course is known) and then joined the lane south down to Poldhu Cove. The trust owns much of the land around here, and a good thing too. I read somewhere that Church Cove used to become one giant car park in summer when vehicles were allowed on the beach and this was having a ruinous effect on the fragile environment. Much the same applied to Poldhu Cove, but now cars have been prevented from parking there too, and marram grass has been planted to stabilise the dunes. Poldhu Cove, Cornwall Having reached Poldhu it’s simply a matter of joining the coast path and heading back north to Church Cove. As you go, you may ponder over which sailor built the sea-borne church in gratitude to his Maker. No one knows if the legend is true, but it’s a fact that the King of Portugal’s treasure ship – the St Anthony – went down near here in 1527 and that an unidentified Spanish ship was wrecked just north of the church in the 1780’s. Legends of gold, silver and grateful sailors have been associated with the location ever since, but then, it’s that sort of place. Walk Information Basic hike: Parking at Winnianton, walk back up road to Halzephron Cliff, join coast path back to Church Cove – then take right of way across golf course inland (beware low flying balls) and join road down to Poldhu Cove before eventually taking coast path back to start. Recommended map: OS Explorer 103 The Lizard, or National Trust Lizard West Coast leaflet. Distance and going: three and a half miles, easy-going. Eat and drink: The Halzephron Inn The Hazelphron Inn FAQ Where is Church Cove in Cornwall? Church Cove lies at Gunwalloe on the Lizard Peninsula, between Poldhu Cove and Porthleven. It is famous for its medieval church standing beside the beach. Why is it called the Church of the Storms? The tiny medieval church, dedicated to St Winwaloe, sits remarkably close to the sea and has survived centuries of Atlantic storms, earning it the nickname "The Church of the Storms". Is Church Cove featured in Poldark? Yes. Church Cove and nearby Dollar Cove were used as filming locations in the BBC series Poldark, adding to the area's popularity with visitors. Is the walk suitable for families? Yes. There are several shorter walking options around Church Cove, while more adventurous walkers can continue along the South West Coast Path towards Poldhu or Mullion. Can you swim at Church Cove? Yes, when sea conditions are safe. Lifeguards are typically present during the school summer holidays, but always check local conditions before entering the water. What wildlife might I see? Look out for seabirds, wildflowers, butterflies and, if you're lucky, seals offshore. The surrounding dunes and reedbeds are also important habitats for wildlife.

If you love discovering places that many visitors simply drive past, this walk is for you. Tregardock Beach is one of North Cornwall's best-kept secrets – a glorious sweep of sand reached only on foot. The walk combines dramatic cliffs, crashing Atlantic waves, secluded coves and exhilarating stretches of the South West Coast Path to create one of the finest coastal walks in Cornwall. Why Tregardock is One of Cornwall's Hidden Gems At first glance the name Narrow Escape might seem a good appellation for a boat, but second thoughts will undoubtedly conjure the idea the vessel’s makers were tempting providence. And that's the way it was just over 180 years ago when the Narrow Escape, of Clovelly, failed to live up to her optimistic name and she was smashed to smithereens by a heavy ground swell just south of Tintagel. IF YOU ENJOY THIS HIKE TAKE A LOOK AT OUR OTHER CORNISH WALKS Starting the Walk But what was she doing there on that lonely, jagged and most inhospitable stretch of the region's coastlines? That's what I wondered as I mused over the inevitable ending of a boat with such a name. There is only one thing for a vessel to do betwixt Tintagel and Port Isaac - steer well clear. But then, I'm a modern man - a fair-weather sailor in more ways than one. Back in 1826 they did things with their boats that mariners wouldn't dream of doing today. Like pulling up on the sand between the rocks at places like Tregardock Beach to take on Delabole slate. Crazy. You'd need to be the sort of optimist that calls your boat Narrow Escape to think you could get away with that - although she wasn't the only vessel to come to grief loading the grey gold of Delabole. Reading about this suicidal trade, I made up my mind to visit this treacherous stretch of coast. Walking the North Cornwall Coast To do so I turned down the coastal lane off the B3314 at Westdowns and discovered another bye-way which would take me toward The Mountain. That is the name of the eminence that commands the North Cornish coast between Tregonnick Point and Jacket's Point, and it is a central feature of this circular hike. The lane terminates at a farm called Tregardock and there is just room to park in winter if you don't mind wedging your car up the bank to ensure a clear way for the folk who live there. Just before the road gives way to private property there's a public footpath on the right by a barn, and down this you go towards the sea. Discovering Tregardock Beach The track curves down a shallow valley to meet the Coast Path. Just beyond the junction - across a shoulder of hill that takes you out of the valley - another path descends towards Tregardock Beach and this I can recommend as a well worthwhile detour if you fancy a paddle or a picnic on the sands. Alternatively you could yourself a few mussels - the rocks are covered in them. I know people who've come a cropper eating wild shellfish, so I am very careful indeed when it comes to preparing these succulent beauties – basically I only collect them from lonesome beaches far from any sewerage outfall. And you don’t get much lonelier than Tregardock. CHECK OUT OUT WALKS ON THE SOUTH WEST COAST PATH Wildlife and Coastal Scenery I was there once, just before the November snow, and as an icy wind was blowing from the east that day the place was something of a suntrap. Several other people seemed to have realised the same thing, and it was rather pleasant to be on a wild and otherwise empty beach in winter and see a few other kindred spirits. It was a long climb from the beach back up The Mountain, but well worth the effort for the views. J.R.A. Hocking described the area beautifully when writing his book Walking In Cornwall back in the 1930's: "One wonders why this bare but far from barren country, which is slanted to the sea winds, yet gets some shelter from the enclosing ridge, should be so very deserted... "There is always a sense of quiet and light and open-hearted peacefulness about it,” writes Hocking. “And yet the whole district is so lonely and out of the way that it would form the nucleus of the National Coastal Park which the C.P.R.E. suggested might be proclaimed between Cambeak and the mouth of the Camel." This park never happened, alas, but old Hocking would have been relieved to know that great sections of the area are now in the ownership of the National Trust and so are assured eternal protection from the sort of commercial ravages that have attacked nearby Tintagel. Most of this walk, indeed, is on trust territory. All of the coastal part is anyway, including Tregardock Cliff, which we follow south. Far below, on the lower slopes, a beam engine once provided power for a couple of mines. A savage and unwholesome place to go digging, but they were after silver and antimony, so perhaps it was worth it. I don't know whether they hit lucky or not and would like to hear, if anyone happens to know. After a while we descend into a deep 'V'-shaped ravine known as Dannonchapel. At least, that's what the National Trust calls this property, which it regards as an important location both in terms of flora and fauna. A footpath heads off up the gorge and this we follow along the stream, before beginning the steep diagonal climb up to reach the farm at Tregragon. Once past the buildings we turn left and walk across the fields towards the top of the hill where we meet another path heading sharp left, back down to Tregardock where we began. And so, no narrow escapes for me - not that sunny day, at least. But do watch it down on the beach - the tide comes in fast and you can easily be cut off. Get caught out and there's no escape - and you will suffer the same fate as that old slate boat with the optimistic name. Walk Information Basic hike: from Tregardock (which you'll find on map due west of Delabole) down to Tregardock Beach, back over The Mountain and along Tregardock Cliff to deep ravine below Dannonchapel. Up ravine to Tregragon and over fields back to car. Recommended map: either Ordnance Survey Explorer 109 or 111. Distance and going: four-and-half miles - steep in places. FAQ Is Tregardock Beach worth visiting? Absolutely. Tregardock is one of North Cornwall's least crowded beaches, reached only on foot. Its dramatic cliffs, waterfall and peaceful setting make it feel wonderfully unspoilt. How difficult is the Tregardock walk? The walk is moderate to strenuous because the North Cornwall coast involves several steep climbs, but the scenery more than rewards the effort. Can you swim at Tregardock Beach? Only with care and when conditions are suitable. There are no lifeguards and the beach almost disappears at high tide, so always check tide times before setting out. Is Tregardock Beach suitable for families? Older children who enjoy walking will love the adventure, but the steep approach means it isn't suitable for pushchairs. Are dogs allowed? Yes. Dogs are generally welcome throughout the year, making it a popular destination for walkers with pets. What other places are nearby? The walk lies between Trebarwith Strand, Tintagel, Delabole and Port Isaac, making it easy to combine with a longer day exploring North Cornwall.

There are many wonderful Exmoor walks, but few can match the sheer drama of this circular route from Lynton and Lynmouth. Beginning beside the harbour before climbing to the famous Valley of Rocks, this walk combines towering sea cliffs, Victorian engineering, literary history and some of the finest coastal scenery in England. If you're only planning one walk on Exmoor, make it this one. Why Lynton and Lynmouth Offer One of Exmoor's Best Walks Lynton and Lynmouth enjoy the most spectacular panoramas in England. It's no exaggeration; I have trawled mentally through every burg I know and cannot think of any town or village that compares with the sheer drama of this perpendicular place. Starting the Walk from Lynmouth Anyone who has ridden on the famous Lyn Cliff Railway will know what I mean. Stand on the outer platform of the ascending car and it's the nearest thing to taking off in a helicopter you can experience without leaving the ground. This walk forms part of my complete Exmoor Walking Guide. The higher you go, the more grandiose the whole scene becomes, which is not surprising really given that the tallest cliffs in England are just across the bay. Taking a ride on the railway would be the easy way to start this walk having strolled down the riverside to the sea from the bus stop – but we thought we’d better get in a bit of exercise after sitting on the top of the bus so walked up the zigzag path which begins just to the left of the funicular. I warn you, the Victorians didn't call the place Little Switzerland for nothing. This is a real climb that takes you very steeply up 500 feet. Close to the top, just as you are about to enter Lynton, you will see that the coast path sets off to the west and there’s a sign pointing along it to the Valley of Rocks – and this is where we are headed. Walking Through the Valley of Rocks I do know a number of people who tremble at the mere thought of walks that boast an altitudinous aspect – if you are one of these vertigo sufferers, then this part of the route is not for you. There’s nothing dangerous or arduous about it, but the hillside does plunge rather alarmingly towards the sea way, way, beneath. The local wild goats don’t seem to mind the savage slopes, but can be seen calmly munching down along the precipices with the same equanimity the average sheep shows in the average flat field. But never mind the drop, enjoy the absolutely amazing views that stretch west along the vertiginous coast instead. These are some of the best coastal views in England. After about a mile and a half of this maritime/alpine mix, the path finds a vast opening in the slopes which introduces it to the famous Valley of Rocks. The poet Coleridge loved it here and referred to the “commotion of the elements” and both William and sister Dorothy Wordsworth joined him, naming it “The Valley of Stones”. R.D. Blackmore made it the setting for Mother Melldrum’s cave in Lorna Doone, but it’s Robert Southey’s description I like best - he called the place: “The palace of pre-Adamite kings” and said it contained “the very bones and skeleton of the earth.” Indeed, he went to claim the Lynton and Lynmouth area to be “The finest spot that I ever saw” with the exception of Cintra in Italy. Walk Details Distance: approximately 5 miles Time: 2½–3 hours Difficulty: Moderate Terrain: Coast path, woodland paths, town streets and some steep climbs Parking: Lynton or Lynmouth car parks Dogs: Suitable but keep leads handy near livestock and goats Best season: All year Just inland from the coast path there’s the nation’s most dramatically placed traffic roundabout, situated dead in the centre of the Valley of Rocks – and from there it was a simple matter of turning left and walking up past the nation’s most dramatically situated cricket pitch to the west end of Lynton. On the way we doffed our caps to Mother Melldrum who, for all I know, still lurks up in the rocks of the Devil’s Cheese-ring. It’s the stack of vertical rock that sits a quarter way up the cleave. If you take a detour up to it you find it’s deceptively massive, but manages to be dwarfed by the general scale of the valley. Returning Through Victorian Lynton But we had a bus to catch and made our way up to the east end of the cleave which then leads you directly into Lynton’s main street. At the top of Lee Road live the Poor Clares. How poor they are I do not know, but the nuns have a large and dignified looking convent which is occasionally open to the public. Continuing down the main-street you pass the imposing town hall with its happy mixture of architectural styles. Gothic, neo-Tudor and art nouveau all combine to make the wonderful old place look like something dreamed up in some baroque fantasy by Sir Arthur Conan-Doyle. Actually Sir Arthur officially opened the place just over 100 years ago and in a way his man Sherlock Holmes paid for it. The building was funded by Sir George Newnes, part of whose wealth came from publishing Conan-Doyle's stories. CHECK OUT SOUTH WEST COAST PATH HIKES HERE Continuing again along the main-street we come to Church Hill past the vast Valley of Rocks Hotel. Adjacent to this there’s the church and graveyard where there’s a seat commemorating the life of the mellifluously named Manners Nightingale. North Walk Hill passes between the graveyard and the hotel and leads to the zigzag paths that descend to Lynmouth. You cross the railway twice before regaining the seafront where you can dawdle, if you’ve time, and admire the Rhenish Tower on the old stone quay. You might also take a turn around the display in the Flood Memorial Hall and take a look at the photographs of the infamous Flood Disaster that almost completely destroyed this community 56 years ago. Frequently Asked Questions Is the Lynton and Lynmouth walk suitable for beginners? Yes. Although there are some steep climbs between Lynmouth and Lynton, the paths are well maintained and the route is manageable for anyone with a reasonable level of fitness. How long is the Lynton and Lynmouth circular walk? Allow around 2½ to 3 hours to complete the circular walk at a leisurely pace, with plenty of time to enjoy the views. Can I use the Cliff Railway instead of climbing? Yes. The famous water-powered Lynton & Lynmouth Cliff Railway provides an enjoyable alternative to the steep zigzag footpath and is an attraction in its own right. Are there cafés and pubs along the route? Yes. Both Lynton and Lynmouth have an excellent choice of cafés, tea rooms and traditional pubs, making this an ideal walk for combining spectacular scenery with lunch or cream tea. What makes the Valley of Rocks so special? The Valley of Rocks is one of Exmoor's most iconic landscapes, famous for its towering rock formations, wild goats and breathtaking views across the Bristol Channel. It has inspired writers including Coleridge, Wordsworth and R. D. Blackmore. When is the best time to visit? Spring and autumn offer wonderful walking conditions, while clear summer evenings provide spectacular sunsets over the sea. Winter brings dramatic skies and far fewer visitors.

Settling in to a classic English village Moving to a new country is a big step. Settling in Britain involves more than just finding a place to live. It requires a thoughtful approach to daily life and health. Expat wellness is key for newcomers looking to thrive in their new environment. By focusing on cultural integration, individuals can build connections and feel at home while living in the UK. One important aspect of this transition is securing UK health insurance for expats. This step ensures that individuals are prepared for any medical needs that may arise. Understanding the local healthcare system helps newcomers feel more secure and confident in their new surroundings. This guide will explore how balancing local culinary experiences with travel and health planning can create a smooth transition for those relocating from the United States. Embracing British food, exploring local markets, and prioritizing wellness can lead to a fulfilling life in Britain. Exploring British Culinary Traditions and Local Markets Exploring British culinary traditions is a vital part of settling in Britain. It allows newcomers to connect with the local culture through food. One of the best ways to experience this is by visiting local food markets. These markets offer a treasure trove of flavors and ingredients unique to the region. Discovering Regional Farmers Markets Farmers markets play a significant role in showcasing British produce. They provide a platform for local farmers to sell their goods directly to consumers. Here are some benefits of visiting these markets: Access to fresh, seasonal ingredients Support for local farmers and businesses Opportunities to learn about traditional British recipes Some notable farmers markets include the historic Borough Market in London, which has been around since at least 1014. These markets not only offer fresh produce but also foster cultural integration through shared food experiences. Adapting to Seasonal British Ingredients Understanding and adapting to seasonal ingredients is essential for anyone settling in Britain. The British climate influences what can be grown throughout the year. By using seasonal ingredients, home cooks can enjoy dishes that reflect the rhythm of British life. This practice encourages creativity in the kitchen and enhances the connection to local food traditions. Incorporating seasonal ingredients into meals can lead to: Healthier eating habits More flavorful dishes A deeper appreciation for British culinary traditions Engaging with local food markets and embracing seasonal produce can significantly enrich the experience of settling in Britain. Navigating UK health insurance for expats for Peace of Mind Living in the UK can be an exciting adventure, but understanding the British healthcare system is crucial for newcomers. The National Health Service (NHS) provides comprehensive care, yet many expats opt for private UK health insurance for expats. This choice often leads to quicker access to specialists and treatments. Navigating NHS access is essential for anyone living in the UK. It determines how individuals interact with healthcare providers and emergency services. Here are some key points to consider: Registration with a local GP is necessary for NHS access. Emergency services can be accessed through 999 or 112. Private health insurance can cover services not provided by the NHS. Having private UK health insurance for expats offers significant peace of mind. It allows individuals to manage their health proactively. This flexibility can help avoid disruptions to the excitement of starting a new life abroad. Expats can enjoy their time in the UK, knowing they have options for healthcare when needed. Understanding both the NHS and private insurance options can empower expats. They can navigate the medical landscape with confidence, ensuring that health concerns do not overshadow their new experiences. Maintaining Everyday Wellness Through Travel and Nature Settling in Britain offers a unique opportunity to embrace a healthy lifestyle enriched by the country's breathtaking landscapes. The UK's "Right to Roam" legislation provides access to vast areas of countryside. This allows individuals to engage in outdoor activities that are essential for long-term expat wellness. Exploring these natural spaces can boost both physical and mental health. Incorporating seasonal ingredients into daily meals is another way to enhance wellness. Fresh produce not only supports a balanced diet but also connects individuals to local culture. Eating what's in season encourages healthier eating habits and promotes sustainability. This approach complements the active lifestyle encouraged by British travel. Having UK health insurance for expats adds a layer of security that fosters peace of mind. With this coverage, individuals can focus on enjoying their surroundings and maintaining their health. Together, these practices create a fulfilling experience that enhances overall well-being while living in the UK.

Why the Cornish Coast Is So Special Few coastlines stir the soul quite like Cornwall's. From towering granite cliffs and tiny fishing harbours to hidden coves where seals bask beneath Atlantic skies, this remarkable peninsula has shaped my life as a journalist, walker and novelist. Over more than five decades I've wandered hundreds of miles of the Cornish coast, uncovering places that never appear in most guidebooks. This article brings together some of the landscapes, stories and unforgettable moments that make Cornwall one of Britain's greatest coastal destinations. To see more of our Cornish Walks click here Here’s a walk article which includes Bedruthan that I wrote many years ago… There was a jangling of keys and in an instance I spotted the beast I’d driven miles to see. Corn buntings are not immediately obvious in the great ornithological pantheon of birds. They look like fat sparrows. Moreover, they are – in West Country terms – an endangered species. The modest bunting has only one toehold left on Cornwall and that is on the particularly lovely strip of coastline that stretches from Padstow down towards Newquay. I was only too pleased to go and meet the farmers who are being paid by the RSPB to farm in a way that helps the corn buntings, as one of them happens to own and run my one of favourite campsites. And while I was there, Ordnance Survey's Explorer Map 106 persuaded me there was a decent chance of a circular stroll in the area that would enable me to breathe fresh air and spot small brown birds all at the same time. The big golden sand beach at Porthcothan stretches inland with all the wide self-importance of a great river in its final lap of estuarine glory. Except there is no river, just the trickles and runlets of an extremely modest stream. Up at the top of the beach this stream makes a bit of a fuss with a puddle or two, but across the road its true riverine identity is revealed. The great sandy gut that promised a river of force was made by a minnow so small that the Ordnance Survey doesn't even bother to give it a name on the map. What they do show though is a footpath which follows the stream's northern bank. To find it you must climb a short way up the hill that leads towards Padstow and there you'll see a track on your right. Once past Porthcothan Mill the path resumes its stream-side course all the way up to the hamlet of Penrose. I have never been to Ireland, but I'm blowed if Penrose doesn't have an Irish feel to it. I somehow expected a local sage to issue from one of the squat cottages and lilt lyrical as a jig. But not a soul stirred in the lonely corner that somehow ended up in Cornwall instead of Connemara and so I took the road due south back down into the river valley and up the other side towards Trethewell. Just after bridging the stream, the lane does a left and then a right and at the latter corner a footpath heads across the field towards the coast. This cuts a dog-leg and rejoins the road at Trevorgey. Directly opposite another lane climbs gently to Engollan where yet another branches right to Tregona. Here you have a choice of following it past Bedruthan to the busy coastal road or turning right down the valley along a footpath which eventually terminates on the B3276 further north at a place called Efflins. The former route will take you close the Bedruthan Steps which is quite simply one of the most fabulous beaches to be found anywhere in Europe. The National Trust owns much of the cliff-top property here and the organisation has a car park and visitor information centre. But I was there recently and the August crowds were very much at large, so I took the latter option of the shorter, latter route past Efflins to Pentire Farm. This corner of coast is also owned by the National Trust and here the organisation has a hostel where volunteer workers can stay. "I have just three wardens covering 40 per cent of a 100 mile long stretch of coastline," I was informed by the local Countryside Manager of the trust's extensive North Cornish holdings. "So we very much rely on volunteers - some of whom come on organised full-time work parties, while others are just interested in doing a day or two here or there. The Beach Head Hostel is where they can stay." I had telephoned to ask him the name of the curious plant which seems to dominate so many of the cliff-top hedgerows around this particular part of the world. Having walked around dramatic Park Head and descended down to a bay called Porth Mear I had wondered, as I have often done before, about this strange feathery shrub that sits upon all the dry stone walls near Trevendar Farm. "Tamarisk," he said immediately. "It comes from South Africa originally and you often find it around parts of the Mediterranean coast. The point is that it is tremendously salt resistant so it makes an excellent windbreak near the sea. "By-the-way, when you were down there in the valley behind Porth Mear did you notice that we've been doing quite a lot of work up in the reed beds by the stream? That valley really is a marvellous habitat for wildlife but it does need looking after..." I had noticed. This peaceful, silent coombe is one of my favourite places in Cornwall and often have I seen a peregrine quartering its secret crooks and crannies. There is something almost Spanish about the valley's northern flanks - the dry stone walls and the ancient tracks audibly escorted by the soughing of the gently bending tamarisk. This is where I spotted my corn bunting, which is easy to identify when you know that it’s call sounds exactly like the jangling of keys. Back at the campsite Chateau Hesp was flapping splendidly in the wind and pinned to it there was a note from my wife and kids that said: “Gone to the beach...” Which, apart from walking, is what you go to Cornwall for. Fact File Basic Hike: from Porthcothan Cove inland to Penrose and back via Bedruthan Steps and the coast. Recommended map: Ordnance Survey Explorer 106. Distance & Going: 7 miles easy going. I've been walking, photographing and writing about Cornwall for more than half a century. During that time I've covered thousands of miles of coastline, interviewed fishermen, lighthouse keepers, artists, lifeboat crews and chefs, and discovered countless places that continue to surprise me. This article is a celebration of the coastline that has inspired so much of my journalism and fiction. FAQ Where is the most beautiful part of the Cornish coast? Beauty is subjective, but favourites include the Land's End peninsula, the Lizard, the Helford River, St Agnes Heritage Coast, Boscastle and the north coast around Tintagel. Cornwall offers everything from rugged Atlantic cliffs to sheltered fishing harbours. When is the best time to visit the Cornish coast? Late spring and early autumn are often ideal, with fewer crowds, mild weather and excellent walking conditions. What is the best coastal walk in Cornwall? The South West Coast Path offers hundreds of miles of outstanding walking. Popular sections include St Ives to Zennor, Boscastle to Tintagel, Porthcurno to Land's End and Fowey to Polruan. Is the Cornish coast good for wildlife? Yes. Visitors regularly see grey seals, dolphins, basking sharks, peregrine falcons, choughs and a wealth of seabirds depending on the season. Which fishing villages should I visit? Some of the most atmospheric include Mousehole, Port Isaac, Cadgwith, Polperro, Boscastle, Coverack and Newlyn, each with its own distinctive character and maritime history.

Some walks are beautiful. Others tell a story. This one does both. High on the Quantock Hills lies a landscape of ancient hill-forts, lonely combes and haunting place names including Dead Woman's Ditch and Walford's Gibbet. These dramatic locations inspired key scenes in my historical novel The Last Broomsquire, based on one of Somerset's most tragic true stories. Join me on a circular walk through one of England's oldest Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty, where history, legend and literature come together beneath wide West Country skies. I originally did this walk in order to celebrate an anniversary of my novel The Last Broomsquire. The book’s initial publisher James Crowden, and the poetess Catherine Simmonds - who had both been invited by the National Trust to give readings of their work at the Coleridge Cottage in nearby Nether Stowey - joined me for the hike. The three of us went for a walk in the hills above the village to talk about the Broomsquire story and see the real-life locations where some of it was set. It was a fascinating excursion for me because Catherine, who helped edit the novel, knows a great deal more about the real story on which I based my 200-year-old tale than I do - which isn’t something you’ll hear many authors say. Anyway, it was such a wonderful hike in such a beauteous place, I have no qualms when it comes to telling you all about it here. Our aim was to walk in a big loop around Dead Woman’s Ditch and Walford’s Gibbet - both of which are at the epicentre of the novel and, as it happens, of the Quantocks themselves. The Real Story Behind The Last Broomsquire The macabre sounding ditch is actually a prehistoric rampart, erected for defensive purposes to help keep the Bronze Age people safe, but Jane Shorney wasn't safe when she passed its way 200 years ago. Actually, I’m not sure how close she was to the ditch which is now so indelibly linked with her passing - local legend has it that she was murdered here but Catherine told me the actual deed was done much further down the hill. However, it was the case that one dark night Shorney’s sharp tongue lashed once too often at Johnny Walford, the handsome father of her children, and he felled her with a single blow before taking out his clasp knife and finishing the job. The Ordnance Survey map still bears the name Walford’s Gibbet, a mile down the road. That's where he paid the ultimate price for the grim thing that he had done. When Judge Kenyon sentenced Walford more than two centuries ago, he was so overcome with remorse over his own fatal judgment wept - which was not a common thing for one of the old hanging judges of the time. Oddly though, not many people shed a single tear for the woman who lay dead with her throat ripped out up in the hills. The popular father of her children dangled nearby for a year and a day as an example to others who might think of silencing their wives on a permanent basis. Walford was so good looking in life that it was said by locals that, “He looked better dead after a year and a day than most men do in their prime…” That’s the real story, but my novel weaves plenty of fanciful escapades around the colourful character of the young broomsquire. They, by the way, were a strange and long-lost itinerant people who lived on the Quantocks (and elsewhere) and collected broom from which they manufactured besoms - by which I mean the sort of domestic brushes favoured by witches. So much for all that drama - the best place at which to begin our circular stroll (as is the case with so many of the Quantocks’ best hikes) is Crowcombe Park Gate. You can’t go wrong with Crowcombe Park Gate, no matter in which direction you decide to wander. In this walk we traipse north-east across the flanks of Black Hill to pass Wilmot’s Pool - which used to be called Withyman’s Pool - not that anyone has any idea of who either Mr W was. From the small hilltop pond we go north again so that we can see Dowsborough directly in front of us. The great green dome looks nothing like any other Quantock hill and I reckon this is the very view which inspired Coleridge’s famous line which starts “sea, hill and wood”. To reach the stately pleasure dome, we take the path which descends deep into Lady’s Combe, which more-or-less separates Dowsborough from the main ridge. From here there’s a track due north around the western, then northern, contours of Dowsborough. The view over the Bristol Channel from here is exceptional. You are treated to an aerial panorama of the seaway’s twin islands – Steep Holm and Flat Holm. By walking around the northern flanks of the huge earthwork which crowns Dowsborough’s wooded summit (which, for the archaeologically inclined, it is an irregularly oval univallate contour hill-fort with counterscarp enclosing seven acres) we were able to descend eastwards through the woods to the aforementioned gibbet where Johnny Walford departed this mortal coil in real life - and may, or may not, have done in my novel. For some reason I always thought the ancient oak tree on the corner, where the Bin Combe lane makes a tight bend, was the actual place where they stringed Johnny up, but Catherine put me right by telling me the authorities built a gibbet out in the nearby field. It’s all a bit sepulchral and strange - and certainly, it is amazing now to think that this lonesome place once played host to more than 2000 folk who turned up to watch the execution. From here we made our way up Five Lords Combe - heading west up the contours between what are increasingly low and stunted oaks as Robin Upright’s Hill get higher towards Quantocks’ central ridge. I wish I could tell you who this upstanding person was, but - like Messrs Wilmot and Witchycombe - Mr Upright’s story has been lost in the mysterious mists of Somerset time. The scrub oaks accompanied us most of the way up the hill and also around its southerly flanks almost to the place where we reached that spooky groove, otherwise known as Dead Woman's Ditch. From there we returned in the gloaming to the Park Gate by walking west again along the upper edge of forested Rams Combe and then, finally, making a short but gentle ascent up the ridge which plays host to Quantock Hills walking version of Piccadilly Circus. It had been a jolly literary walk with literary friends - but I went home, as I always do when it comes to this part of the Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, utterly haunted by what was, and what may have been. Fact File Basic hike: across the roof of the Quantocks from Crowcombe Park Gate to Dowsborough - down to Walford’s Gibbet - returning via Robin Upright’s Hill and Dead Woman’s Ditch. Recommended map: Ordnance Survey Explorer 140 Quantock Hills. Distance and going: four miles – easy going. Where does this Quantock walk start? The circular walk begins at Crowcombe Park Gate before heading towards Dowsborough, Walford's Gibbet and Dead Woman's Ditch, returning along the Quantock ridge. How long is the walk? The route is approximately four miles and follows mostly easy paths, making it suitable for most walkers with a reasonable level of fitness. What is Dead Woman's Ditch? Despite its name, Dead Woman's Ditch is a prehistoric earthwork built during the Bronze or Iron Age. Local legend later linked it with the murder of Jane Shorney, which inspired The Last Broomsquire. What is Walford's Gibbet? Walford's Gibbet marks the area where Johnny Walford was executed after being convicted of murdering Jane Shorney in the early nineteenth century. The tragic story forms the historical inspiration for The Last Broomsquire. Is this walk suitable all year? Yes. The Quantocks are beautiful throughout the year, although sturdy footwear is recommended after wet weather because some woodland paths can become muddy.

There is something almost magical about entering a forest. The noise of modern life fades, the air becomes cooler and scented with leaves and earth, and every bend in the path promises another discovery. Whether you're searching for wildlife, ancient trees, colourful autumn leaves or simply a place to escape for a few hours, Britain's forests offer some of the country's most rewarding walking experiences. This walk reminded me just how restorative a day beneath the trees can be. “If we sing of the woods, let them be woods of consular dignity,” wrote the poet Virgil in ancient times. I’ll you what I think has very little dignity at present - and that is the Government’s latest round of advice for the lockdown. Much of it is confusing and doesn’t make sense. I can foresee a mass migration to the countryside if the weather holds and the sun gets warmer - and we do not have the logistics in place for all manner of things. Pubs and restaurants are closed, village shops have limited supplies… Even all the public toilets across the national park here are shut for the duration. Visitors need facilities, and the countryside is very short of them at the moment. Anyway, to get back to Virgil and his woods… Being in forests is good for you - good for the soul and for mental health - so I thought I’d repeat an article I wrote on the subject last year…. I’ve never really understood what Virgil meant, but this region’s woodlands retain wondrous amounts dignity, consular or otherwise. Which is one reason I like walking in them so much. Trees are good friends to mankind in all manner of ways. We can make things out of their wood and they provide a fabulous habitat for all manner of plants and creatures. They also act as a valuable carbon sink in these times when humankind seems so hell bent on wrecking the planet with our love of cars, consumerism, convenience and easy indoor living. But these things come at a price - and I’m not just talking about the planet’s atmosphere. Humans were not really designed to live in the modern rat race or in vast cities made of concrete - and trees, or forests, offer a kind of gentle salve or cure. If you enjoy this post click here to find some of our Forest Walks in the South West Why Forest Walks Are Good for Mind and Body Research studies carried out in many countries over the past decade have show that when people walk or spend time in forests, they relax, calm down and generally chill out - all of which can conjure better health. Some countries like South Korea are now planting large forests in and around large cities to afford their hard working populations a natural way to tune their ravaged souls and feel better about life. Discovering Ancient Woodland Here in the West Country we have a great many forests, copses and woodlands. And we have the excellent Forestry England which owns and manages large tracts of land across the peninsula. And the good news about the FC is that it has changed the way it plants trees down the years - no longer do they cover massive acreages with big black forests of endless, lifeless, conifers. Carefully selected mixed planting which incorporates many indigenous species is more the order of the day - which makes such forests far more pleasant to walk in. Also the Forestry England welcomes walkers to stroll its many tracks and rides unless, of course, large scale clearance operations are underway - which they happen to be in several of my favourite forests at the moment. The other things about forests and woodlands is that they can offer wonderful shelter belts for walkers to enjoy at this time of year when midwinter storms are raging through. I can remember one day in particular a few years ago when I was intending to do a walk on Dartmoor and the wind and rain were so savage my car was swaying from side to side as I drove past lonely Warren Inn. A few miles later I pulled into Bellever Forest and enjoyed an hour-long hike in the most gentle of conditions. I could hear the gale booming in the distant outer trees, but where I was in the heart of the forest you could have dropped a feather and it would have landed at your feet. Walking is an important form of exercise for those of us who do not play regular sport or go to the gym - which is why its a good idea to keep putting one foot in front of another even in winter. A recent Natural England survey found that a massive 57 per cent of people said a walk or a ramble was the main activity enjoyed on any kind of outdoor leisure visit they made. “It’s been shown that the great outdoors is the best motivator to keep people walking and active,” said a Natural England spokesman. “It’s also the easiest form of exercise to make part of your daily routine and the significant effect it can have on reducing or coping with stress really can make a difference to peoples’ lives.” Exercising outside can improve concentration for several hours afterwards and makes you more resilient to stress or helps cope with stress. Walking protects our joints from wear and tear thanks to muscle build-up - and it improves your immune system for up to 24 hours after a walk which can help prevent you from catching a cold. If you walk for 30 minutes a day you can burn off 2,000 calories a week (the equivalent of six Mars bars) or 150 calories per mile. That may not seem like a lot but walking and keeping fit also increases your metabolism, so it’s good for you even when you’re not doing it. As I’ve mentioned above, research shows that our stress levels fall within minutes of contact with nature – good for body and mind And walking crosses all generations so everyone can get involved. Research has shown that if children haven’t had the opportunity to be in the natural environmental on their own before the age of 11, they’re unlikely to use the great outdoors in later life and therefore benefit from the stress relieving qualities the outdoors can bring. So - taking this dual theme of walking and forests - I put together a list of some of the best woodland hikes in the South West. If there is an interest, I will put the full list on another Lockdown day. I’m not claiming that every step of every walk will be surrounded by trees - some are but others will include copses, woods or forests along the way. FAQ Section Why are forest walks so relaxing? Woodland environments reduce noise, provide shade and immerse walkers in nature. Many people find that walking among trees helps reduce stress while improving wellbeing. What should I take on a forest walk? Wear sturdy footwear, carry waterproof clothing, water, a map or GPS, and binoculars if you enjoy wildlife watching. When is the best time to visit a forest? Every season offers something different. Spring brings wildflowers, summer offers cool shade, autumn is famous for colourful foliage and winter reveals woodland structure and far-reaching views. Are forest walks suitable for families? Many forests have waymarked trails suitable for all ages, with shorter routes, picnic areas and opportunities to spot birds, butterflies and other wildlife. What wildlife might I see on a forest walk? Depending on the location, you may see deer, foxes, squirrels, woodpeckers, owls, butterflies and a wide variety of woodland plants and fungi.

Eleven miles off the North Devon coast lies a place that feels like another world. Lundy is an island of soaring granite cliffs, puffins, seals and spectacular Atlantic views, where there are no cars, only a handful of permanent residents and time seems to slow to the rhythm of the sea. On this unforgettable visit I combined one of Britain's finest island adventures with an outdoor seafood feast, discovering why Lundy remains one of the West Country's most magical destinations. This article is unashamedly about persuading you to experience the delights of preparing and eating the UK’s amazing maritime harvest right next to the place where it was caught. It’s a well known fact that, for some mysterious reason, food tastes better outdoors. It is also a fact that localness can help hugely with freshness, when means things are bound to be more delicious. But the real reason we’re being evangelistic about buying and eating West Country seafood in particular is that a huge percentage of it is exported abroad before it even has a chance to stop flapping straight from one of our trawlers. If you enjoy this post check out our Walk On Lundy The fish crew on Lundy with Dan the Fishman When we journeyed out to Lundy to have a beach barbecue for this article, we were joined by a well known North Devon fish processing worker known to one and all as Birdseye - and he pointed from the decks of the MS Oldenburgh to five trawlers which were chugging endlessly up and down the mouth of the Bristol Channel. “They’re after squid,” said Birdseye. “Right now they’ll be catching those tiny ones they love so much in countries like France and Greece. Later tonight a big artic’ lorry will come down to Appledore and the whole lot will go for export. Every single one.” Now, I don’t know about you, but this seems a terrible shame to me. The likes of Appledore ought to be groaning under the weight of permanent fresh fish-stalls selling delicious local catches. Indeed, Appledore should be one of the UK centres for food lovers who turn up in droves drooling at the mouth. That’s what would happen if the estuarine town was located on French or Spanish shores. But instead of that, we Brits shrug our shoulders - then, after watching TV chefs extolling the delights of fresh local seafood, we try to go out and find it, fail, and return home via a supermarket where they sell seafood that is… Well, that is not exactly still flapping fresh. There is one man in North Devon who is desperate to change all this - and indeed who runs his own fish-stalls at local markets. I suppose we could have called him Desperate Dan, if his much better known name wasn’t Dan the Fishman. Dan is an unashamed evangelist when it comes to seafood, and as such he occasionally invites me to a beach barbecue or picnic where we get to cook the finest of fresh catches right next to the place where the stuff was taken from the sea. On this occasion it was the turn of Lundy - an island famed in fishery circles because it has, for a long time, been surrounded by a marine protection zone - originally put in place by fishermen rather than conservationists - which has helped increase the natural restocking ratios of various species. And here’s what Dan had to say about our seafood day out which began by us leaving Bideford aboard the Oldenburgh… “I used to be one of the lifeboat coxswains for the Clovelly lifeboat - and living in the village I’ve always considered Lundy to be one of my neighbours - so returning as Dan the Fishman is very special to me. It has a marine conservation zone, so cooking there will be an extra treat. “Not only are we going to be looking at the sea where the fish are caught, but travelling across it - so aboard today we are preparing a little breakfast of Westcountry kippers steeped in a hot pan of water, served with - believe it or not - coarse cut marmalade. The combo works! It’s a flavour thing. “You’ve got to get the sequence right - you’ve got to get the kipper in the mouth first, but you have to dab just a little bit of bitter marmalade on it just like a relish. We are serving that hand-held in a bap, with bread made by a local baker overnight.” In case you’re wondering if the kipper-and-marmalade combo worked, several passengers were handed baps and a Chinese woman said she believed the dish would go down very well in the north of her native country. Which could mean more of our precious fish will be exported rather than less… Anyway, back to Dan and his Lundy adventure master-plan… “When everything has settled down on the voyage, we are going to feed Captain Jerry, and his eight-man crew, with an early lunch as a little thank-you. It’s going to be a selection of smoked fish from Dieter Wirtz at Plaistow Mills. We’ve got Exmoor smoked trout and a gravlax made of trout - and I’ve made our own smoked trout pate. It’s a really nice combination.” Halfway through the two-and-half hour crossing we took the splendid platter of smoked fish up to the bridge, much to the delight of skipper Jerry Waller. “This doesn’t happen often enough,” he beamed. “We normally have a four star lunch - in the winter it’s a roast and in summer it’s salad - but it is wonderful to taste some local fish. “The crab and the lobster here are definitely improving,” he said, scanning the unusually smooth blue sea that lay between the ship and the big green island. “The local fishermen have been telling us about a few problems that were caused by the winter storms, but this has been a great new season for us. “In fact, it’s been the best we’ve had since 2007 - and we are really hoping the summer will carry through August and September. At this time of year we are doing three Lundy sailings a week, and as we move into July that will go up to four.” So that will give readers plenty of opportunity to try this island beach-cooking adventure for themselves… A statement which caused me to ask Dan Garnett (to give the Fishman his real name) what other treats he had lined up… “If we are feeling peckish at any time I have prepared a few local lobsters for some simple straightforward lobster sandwiches - which will have a bit of mayo and Dijon mustard put together in some nice sourdough bread,” said the ever-ebullient purveyor of fish. “On the island we are setting up with some very simple, small-scale, camping stove equipment to show just how easy it is to get everything into just one rucksack. It allows you not only to just enjoy being by the sea - you can cook and eat outdoors which gives you the whole experience. “So we’re going to cook it, eat it - and taste the sea. We have the very first of this season’s large mackerel - I have picked out some very nice fish which we will fillet. The mackerel will be a main course - simply fried skin-side down, served with an elder-flower and gooseberry relish and a warm citrussy potato salad. “For a little starter we’re doing Lundy beach scallops in a simple marinade with Cornish chilli sea salt - served on a bed of small glass noodles - washed down with some beautiful wine which has been donated to us from Bray Valley Wines. The help I’ve had for this little expedition has come from quite a few family businesses - so this can be a fabulous day out that any of your readers can enjoy.” As we prepared to land on Lundy, Dan concluded his bout of fishy evangelism: “The hi-tech lightweight kit you can buy now to cook on outdoors is amazing - so there’s no point in just taking sandwiches. Get adventurous and cook something out on the beach. That is the ultimate way of enjoying this North Devon coast.” As we went ashore we were met by my old friend Derek Green, Lundy’s general manager, and he welcomed our mission: “We have one main beach in the landing bay which stretches 300 yards, so there’s plenty of room for your readers to come and enjoy the seaside here and have a barbecue. “Lundy has been leading the way for marine conservation for over 40 years now,” said Derek. “Having a no-take zone here means that areas fully populate, then species spill out to other areas. And the fishermen are benefitting from that - the lobster, crab and scallop catch around Lundy is better now than it’s ever been. “So we are delighted - it just goes to show how sustainable fishing can actually work in partnership with conservation,” added the Lundy manager who told me his island plays host to more than 16,000 day-visitors a year. “We very much encourage people to come and enjoy the great outdoors which the island has to offer - and on a day like this we will often smell the aroma of barbecues - which is fantastic.” And indeed, it was fantastic. As Dan gutted, filleted and fried, local gulls enjoyed the cast off bits and bobs - and a great gang of human outdoor fish-consumption enthusiasts ate their fill. One guy who’d come along to help was a retired professional whose work for nearly 40 years had taken him to just about every country on the planet - and as we returned to Bideford quay after a long, long day he said: “On a day like this you couldn’t have a better day out anywhere. And I mean anywhere. The views, the food - the whole experience. I sometimes wonder if Westcountry people really realise just how lucky they are.” Lundy Beach Scallops This tempting one pan dish is one of the fastest to prepare and cook. Serve as a generous starter or make larger for a main course. Best served as a summer beach picnic or as a garden treat. Ingredients Serves four 4 scallops per person (with corals) Olive oil (4tbsps) Good pinch of Cornish chilli sea salt Garlic paste (1tsp) 2 Finely chopped spring onions Finely chopped Fresh ginger (1 tsp) Ground black pepper White wine ¼ glass 1 lemon Small pack of glass or fine noodles Method Cook noodles for one minute in lightly salted boiling water. Drain and set aside, cover with foil to keep warm. Pour olive oil into small bowl, add pepper and sea salt. Put the scallops into the seasoned oil Heat the remaining oil, add the spring onions and cook gently without allowing to brown. Add 1 teaspoon of the garlic paste and half a teaspoon of the chopped ginger, cook for a further 2 minutes. Increase the heat and add the drained scallops. Sear for approximately 45 seconds each side. Add the wine followed by the warm noodles. Adjust the seasoning to taste. Heat through and serve with a fresh squeeze of lemon. Enjoy the flavour and the view! Lundy Beach Scallops This tempting one pan dish is one of the fastest to prepare and cook. Serve as a generous starter or make larger for a main course. Best served as a summer beach picnic or as a garden treat. Ingredients Serves four 4 scallops per person (with corals) Olive oil (4tbsps) Good pinch of Cornish chilli sea salt Garlic paste (1tsp) 2 Finely chopped spring onions Finely chopped Fresh ginger (1 tsp) Ground black pepper White wine ¼ glass 1 lemon Small pack of glass or fine noodles Method Cook noodles for one minute in lightly salted boiling water. Drain and set aside, cover with foil to keep warm. Pour olive oil into small bowl, add pepper and sea salt. Put the scallops into the seasoned oil Heat the remaining oil, add the spring onions and cook gently without allowing to brown. Add 1 teaspoon of the garlic paste and half a teaspoon of the chopped ginger, cook for a further 2 minutes. Increase the heat and add the drained scallops. Sear for approximately 45 seconds each side. Add the wine followed by the warm noodles. Adjust the seasoning to taste. Heat through and serve with a fresh squeeze of lemon. Enjoy the flavour and the view! FAQ Section Where is Lundy? Lundy lies in the Bristol Channel, around 11 miles off the North Devon coast. It is managed by the Landmark Trust and is famous for its dramatic scenery, wildlife and peaceful atmosphere. How do you get to Lundy? Most visitors travel aboard the MS Oldenburg from Ilfracombe or Bideford between spring and autumn. A helicopter service also operates for staying guests during the winter months. Is Lundy good for wildlife? Yes. Lundy is famous for puffins, grey seals, seabirds and marine life. Conservation work has helped seabird numbers recover dramatically in recent years. Can you eat on Lundy? Yes. Visitors can enjoy meals at the Marisco Tavern, buy picnic supplies from the island shop or, where permitted and prepared responsibly, enjoy outdoor picnics and barbecues in suitable locations. Is Lundy worth a day trip? Absolutely. A day trip offers spectacular coastal walks, historic landmarks, abundant wildlife and a rare chance to experience one of England's most remote islands. Staying overnight, however, allows you to appreciate the island once the day visitors have departed

Most people imagine Oman as a land of deserts, golden dunes and endless horizons. But climb into the Hajar Mountains and another world appears. Jebel Akhdar – the Green Mountain – is a landscape of deep canyons, ancient stone villages, terraced fruit orchards and fragrant rose gardens. Its cooler climate has sustained mountain communities for centuries and offers travellers one of the most spectacular and unexpected journeys in the Arabian Peninsula. My journey through these remarkable highlands revealed an Oman that few visitors ever expect to find. Discovering Jebel Akhdar, Oman's Green Mountain As another Middle Eastern conflict continues any thoughts of travelling to, and exploring, that amazing region diminish once again. But for years Oman has offered safe - and amazingly scenic - exception to the rule that the region can be unsafe to visit. Foreign places can grow in the imagination during a person’s formative years – we can nurture romantic and colourful ideas about a country or region and somehow they stick as you grow older. For example, mental images of the Middle East can be seeded and amplified by biblical stories. Then, perhaps, we may watch a classic movie like Lawrence of Arabia - and suddenly the hot dusty region takes on a whole new allure and fascination. What we see in our Arabian Night tinted imaginations are sandy deserts dotted with green oasis; bare mountains hiding white villages carved out of rock, lined with date palm gardens watered by clear flowing streams; haughty camels strutting where other creatures would fear to tread; mysterious gun-toting people in long robes; the haunting sounds of the Imam calling folk to prayer… Then the world changes. Suddenly the Middle East – or much of it anyway – becomes a little bit hazardous for Westerners. In some places – the most Arabic and perhaps beautiful of them all, like the Yemen – travel becomes downright dangerous. We find ourselves writing off all those oriental dreams of Sinbad and Scheherazade. For many of us the more interesting destinations in the Arab world have become unsafe, while the few relatively secure places are two-dimensional and boring. And then we discover Oman… The wild and wonderful sultanate is all you ever imagined the Arabic Middle East could be. And perhaps a little more. Much if it is stunningly beautiful. The scenery can be awesome and dramatic. And the people are fantastically friendly – even though we Brits helped put the boot in to some of the hill tribes not so very long ago. In fact, I went to a crag above one very beautiful village high in the Akhdar Mountains where my guide told me we’d be going no further. He said the people there were fed up with being gawped at by the odd tourist who was passing. Martin Hesp in the Hajar Highlands “Tourists? What tourists?” I protested looking at the vast empty rocky amphitheatre around me… That’s when he told me the truth - that British forces had bombed the place in the 1950s. I tell you this because I wish to underline just how warm and friendly most Omanis are, regardless of any British involvement in the country’s history. This is partly because these patriotic people are passionate about the country in which they live and are proud to share it with visitors. Driving into the Hajar Mountains The first time I visited Oman my itinerary took me away from Muscat as a guide from the excellent Bahwan Travel Group turned up in comfortable air conditioned four wheel drive to take me exploring. It was these adventures – mainly in the Akhdar Mountain region - that I shall remember for a long, long time to come. The range extends some 200 miles just inland from the Gulf of Oman and is as spectacular a sequence of eminences as I’ve ever seen. The highest point, Jabal Shams (the mountain of the sun), is almost 10,000 feet in altitude and is the highest point in Oman and the whole of eastern Arabia – and I know for a fact that it’s altitudinous because I was taken almost to the summit where you will notice a distinct shortness of breath. These are desert mountains – by which I mean that they are, for the most part, bare rock. However, the higher areas receive a foot of precipitation each year which is enough, in the incredibly deep ravines and valleys at least, for scattered shrubs and trees and allows some agriculture. Hence the name which, translated, means the Green Mountains. A bit of a colourful exaggeration. But then, I come from the emerald West of England. The green bits you see are mainly where the locals have built complex runnels and aqueducts to irrigate terraced gardens in the valley bottoms. These are magical oases among vast vertical slabs of bare rock which seem to reach high into the heavens. And I saw a great many of the mountains - roaring ever higher up seemingly impossible tracks in our four wheel drive. The most memorable journey was up the amazing Wadi Nakher, located in the depths of Oman's deepest canyon. Believe me, this is the nearest thing you’ll see to the Grand Canyon this side of the Atlantic. Ancient Villages Clinging to the Cliffs Apart from the little villages which cling impossibly to the sides of crags – with their terraced gardens and date palms looking more biblical than anything I’ve ever seen before – the place exudes a sense of eternal ancientness. This is perhaps echoed by the fact that humans have been living in these lonesome places for a very long time – probably as far back as 100,000 years. That makes our own ancient sites look about as old as a Home County new town… Somehow you are aware of this time-immemorial aspect of the landscape as you lurch and bounce along the tracks that pass up through the wadis – which are the river valleys or ravines that man and his domestic animals have been plying up and down since way before the last Ice Age. Terraced Orchards and Rose Gardens It’s not all savage scenery – the Jebel Al Akhdar is renowned for its fruit orchards which you find in the aforementioned terraces. Apricots, figs, peaches, grapes, apples, pears, pomegranates, plums, almonds and walnuts are grown up here amid the rocks under the endlessly blue skies. Even better known are the roses of Jebel Al Akhdar - rosewater is distilled in homes across the range and the air in spring is said to be filled with fragrance. Spectacular Views Across Deep Canyons Perhaps most noteworthy of all is Nizwa - the gateway to the mountain range. The oasis city was the nation’s capital back in the 6th and 7th centuries, which means that it is a place which groans with history and romance. And this in turn means that is the most popular tourist attraction in Oman – although you could hardly say the visitors overrun the many historic buildings or the imposing fort built in the mid 17th century by Imam Sultan Bin Saif Al Ya'ribi. The town has a population of around 70,000 and is almost completely surrounded by an immense palm oasis that stretches for five or so miles along the course of two wadis. At the very heart of the place is the famous, bustling, souk where you buy all manner of locally made copper and silver jewellery. Nizwah, which is sometimes called “The Pearl of Islam”, wasn’t always so welcoming of tourists. Just 60 years ago the British explorer Wilfred Thesiger was forced to steer clear of the place having arrived at an oasis just outside. Back in those days the town was run by an extremely strict regime and Thesiger’s Bedouin companions were convinced that the Nizwah-ites would have his guts for garters. They don’t spurn tourists nowadays but try and sell them some kind of craft item or nick-nack instead. Which is fine – although I have one complaint when it comes to the relationship that Omanis have with their visitors… And that is the food. I’d been looking forward to some kind of local repast in Nizwah, but it was never going to happen. It seems that food preparation in Oman is almost always done by women – but in this Muslim country they are not really expected to be out and about making a living by cooking for strangers. The result is that there are no restaurants selling local food. Eating outside the big international hotels means dining in one of the ubiquitous Indian restaurants that have a complete national monopoly when it comes to cuisine in this country. Which is also fine. I like Indian food – especially the Keralan cuisine which is often served in the road houses out there in the mountains. But I would also have liked to sample Omani cooking. However… This is the one and only downside of this most extraordinary of countries. Why is Jebel Akhdar called the Green Mountain? Unlike much of Oman, the altitude allows fruit trees, roses, walnuts, pomegranates and other crops to flourish, creating lush terraces that give the mountain its name. Do you need a 4WD to visit Jebel Akhdar? Yes. Access beyond the checkpoint requires a four-wheel-drive vehicle because of the steep mountain road. Visitors should check current requirements before travelling. What is the best time to visit Jebel Akhdar? October to April offers the most pleasant weather, while March and April are especially popular for the famous Damask rose season when the mountain terraces burst into bloom. What can you do in Jebel Akhdar? Visitors can hike through ancient villages, explore terraced orchards, admire dramatic canyon views, visit rose-water distilleries and experience traditional Omani mountain culture.

Caribbean food is far more than jerk chicken and rum punch. In St Lucia I discovered a vibrant culinary culture built on fresh seafood, tropical fruit, fragrant herbs and recipes passed down through generations. From the colourful stalls of Castries Market to luxury resort kitchens and organic rainforest gardens, I met chefs determined to celebrate authentic island ingredients and show visitors the true taste of the Caribbean. Their passion revealed why Caribbean cuisine is becoming one of the world's most exciting food destinations. This post includes Caribbean recipes for Avocado & Bitter Gourd Salad, Grilled Chicken with Mango Kuchela, and Zepina (Spinach) Soup with Jerk Shrimps It was hot. Ridiculously hot. And there, among the organic gardens in the rainforest, a young chef stooped to pick a herb that tasted like coriander, but was twice as strong. Later, in the heated frenzy of the capital’s main fruit and veg market, another older chef reached out for a weird looking plant that tasted like spinach and was destined to become one of the best soups I have ever eaten. To see more articles like this visit our Food & Drink page by clicking here Discovering the Authentic Flavours of St Lucia There’s an old saying that goes: “We travel not to escape life, but for life not to escape us…” And I believe the phrase also covers a person’s adventures in the discovery of food, partly because what you can learn thousands of miles away can easily be applied back at home. That was what I was thinking on the idyllic island of St Lucia in the Caribbean where I spent a couple of days with two remarkable chefs who work at two entirely separate resorts located at either end of the island, and both - in their own very different ways - are on journeys of discovery that are allowing them to get the very best out of a whole new genre that incorporates genuine, authentic, Caribbean food. And there is a direct link between what they are doing down there in the Tropics, and what is happening across the UK food scene. For example, both chefs are discovering pungent and delicious herbs and spices that, until now, have often been ignored by top chefs in the Caribbean but which have been the secret preserves of the local farmers and growers. You could say exactly the same about the way some chefs and home cooks in Britain are discovering the lights of things like wild garlic, which have always grown here but which have been ignored for decades. If you’ve been lucky enough to go to the Caribbean in previous times you will know that visitors tend to have been served the universal entity loosely called “international cuisine”, with a few dishes like “jerk chicken” thrown in here and there as a bow to local food. For years, indeed, you could have said something similar about many regional British hotels and restaurants which served the same kind of food you could eat in London, Paris or New York, was punctuated now and again by something local like a Cornish pasty or stargazy pie. Now the world seems to have woken up from its lengthy culinary slumber. Tired old usual-suspects are beginning to vanish from menus and are being replaced by real, vibrant, local food that speaks or even shouts of the landscape where it was picked or harvested or caught, and cooked. Exploring Castries Market with a Caribbean Chef Here’s how Peter Juma Mahaba put it when I spent a day with him both purchasing local ingredients at Castries market in St Lucia, and cooking them at Rendezvous, the resort where he is executive chef. “The traveller is seeking new and authentic experiences and food is one of the avenues where they can enjoy this. ‘International cuisines’ can be had anywhere in the world and are typically European in background. The local or Caribbean food is one way in which the traveller can connect to the local culture of the islands and experience a piece of tradition that has been passed down from family to family.” As we walked amid the hot and sweaty stalls of Castries market chatting with the ladies who seemed to be the people in charge of selling everything, Peter went on: “What makes any cuisine memorable is its unique local ingredients along with the traditional and authentic preparation. Using the local products gives us the opportunity to select quality product and have a guarantee degree of freshness for our dishes “The products we can see here in the market offer a different texture, taste and uniqueness which cannot be found elsewhere. The herbs that are available - like seasoning peppers, shadow benny, little leaf thyme and cinnamon bark - add a flavourful dimension which is unique to the islands. This gives us an opportunity to offer an authentic ‘farm to table’ experience which is different and exciting. Peter then cooked me a seven course tasting menu in which each dish featured one of the remarkable items we’d bought from the market. And it was one of the most memorable meals I’ve ever had. Indeed, the Rendezvous is planning to make the market-visit a special feature for visitors who wish to sign up to enjoying a hyper-local meal Tropical Herbs and Spices That Define Caribbean Cooking Two hour’s drive south across the mountains and through the rainforest, the chefs at Jade Mountain resort do not need to go to the market often because his resort has its very own estate, complete with organic gardens where he picks local ingredients and experiments in growing a ever-wider range with a head gardener who happens to have a doctorate in tropical horticulture. The last time I visited the chef had only been in post at the amazingly beautiful twin resorts of Anse Chastanet and Jade Mountain for a few months - and after a career spent cooking in many exotic parts of the world he is being bowled over by the extraordinary range of vegetables, fruits, herbs and spices he is discovering in the Emerald Estate gardens. The garden, surrounded by rainforest just behind the fishing village of Soufriere and just under the remains of a massive old volcano, was without the most exotic horticultural endeavour I’ve ever visited, and we spent an entire morning strolling around it with Stefan tasting herbs and spices I didn’t know existed. Karolin Troubetzkoy, executive director of Anse Chastanet and Jade Mountain resorts also serves as president of the Caribbean Hotel and Tourism Association, and she told me that tourists increasingly ranked food as a primary motivator in their travel decisions. “Visitors to our Caribbean region are looking for unique culinary experiences and locally sourced products. Increasingly, our culinary offerings are driving destination traffic alongside established factors such as accommodation and scenery,” said Karolyn. Farm-to-Table Dining in the Caribbean Back at his kitchens at the unbelievably stylish Jade Mountain, the chef showed me a local fish he’s keen to buy from the fishermen who hunt the coral reefs. It’s called a lionfish and the catching and eating of it represents a true win-win situation. Staff at Jade Mountain had discovered that lionfish have been decimating populations of other marine creatures ever since it had been accidentally introduced to the Caribbean. The chef also discovered that it was delicious to eat. Now the kitchen pays local fishermen to catch these predatory but delicious marine creatures and stage a special event at which the lionfish is prepared in a variety of ways and eaten. To me, this story symbolises all that food should be. By eating good local ingredients we aren’t wrecking the planet - we are helping it to thrive and also putting money into the pockets of local farmers, gardeners, meat producers and fisherman instead of big greedy corporations. Recipes from the Rendezvous resort in northern St Lucia Many of the stranger sounding items like bitter gourd in these recipes appear in larger supermarkets nowadays and certainly in West Indian markets in British cities. Shadow bennie taste remarkably like coriander, only stronger. Avocado and bitter gourd salad Ingredients serves 4 1 piece avocado cut into wedges ½ piece bitter gourd (4oz) 1 teaspoonful sugar 1 cup coconut milk 1 table spoon olive oil 2 cracked bay leaf seeds 1 star anise 1 whole, squeezed orange juice chairman’s reserve rum For tamarind dressing 1 piece tamarind- deseeded and shell removed 1 sprig shadow bennie - finely chopped Grated nutmeg for taste 1 oz onions – finely chopped 4 oz olive oil ¼ green tomatoes, seeds removed and finely chopped - Salt pepper Method, Mix all the ingredients in a gastronomic bowl and chill before serving Method Cut the bitter gourd in half lengthwise, remove the seeds with spoon and slice thinly Soak the bitter gourd in coconut milk for 20 minutes Cook the bitter gourd in salted boiling water for 5 minutes, Pour olive oil in a sauce pan and caramelise the onions, sugar, star anise and cracked bay seeds Add orange juice, bitter gourd and rum, then toss for 1 minute. Chill until required Serve with avocado, organic lettuce and tamarind dressing Grilled Chicken with Mango Kuchela Ingredients serves 4 4 pieces chicken breast ¼ piece garlic clove cut into two 1 whole mango-half ripe, peeled and finely diced 1 bunch shadow bennie, roughly chopped garam masala 1 oz onions – grated 1 green chilli -f inely chopped salt pepper Mix all the ingredients in a bowl and chill before serving For the baste ½ oz extra virgin olive oil 2 medium cloves garlic, mashed with a pinch of salt into a paste ¼ oz lemon juice from about 1 lemon 1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh rosemary 1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh thyme 1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh oregano 1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes Mix all the ingredients in a bowl Method for the chicken, Baste the chicken breasts and allow to chill for 30 minutes. Place the chicken on the hot side of the grill, directly above the coals. Sear the breasts for four minutes per side, turning only once and brushing with baste, until golden brown. If the grill flares up, move them to the warm, or indirect, side of the grate. When the breasts are properly browned and cooked, remove from grill. Test for doneness. Serve chicken breast with shadow bennie (or coriander) rice, mango kuchela and celery gravy Zepina (or alternatively, spinach) soup with jerk shrimps Ingredients serves 4 1/2 lb fresh zepina (or spinach) leaves ¼ piece garlic clove cut into two bouquet garni ½ pint of vegetable stock salt and pepper ¼ pint coconut milk 2 oz celery diced 3 oz onions – roughly chopped 2 oz double cream 4 oz shrimps 1 table spoonful jerk marinade olive oil Method Sauté the onions, garlic and the zepina leaves in olive oil. Add the bouquet garni and vegetable stock and cook until the leaves are tender. Remove the bouquet garni and puree the soup in a blender Strain the soup and add in coconut milk, salt pepper and simmer for 10 minutes In a separate pan, sauté the shrimps with jerk marinade and cook for 3 minutes. Garnish the soup with jerk shrimps FAQ Section What is traditional Caribbean food? Traditional Caribbean cuisine combines fresh seafood, tropical fruit, root vegetables, spices and herbs influenced by African, Indigenous, European and Indian cultures. Every island has its own distinctive dishes and flavours. What food is St Lucia famous for? St Lucia is known for fresh fish, green figs and saltfish, breadfruit, tropical fruits, Creole dishes and recipes using local herbs, spices and Scotch bonnet chillies. Can visitors learn Caribbean cooking? Yes. Many resorts and local chefs offer market tours and cooking classes where visitors can learn traditional Caribbean recipes using fresh local ingredients. Why is Caribbean cuisine becoming more popular? Travellers increasingly want authentic food experiences using locally grown ingredients rather than international hotel menus. Caribbean chefs are celebrating regional traditions while creating exciting modern dishes. What ingredients are commonly used in Caribbean cooking? Fresh fish, coconut, plantain, breadfruit, mango, thyme, cinnamon, allspice, Scotch bonnet peppers, coriander-like herbs and tropical vegetables are staples of Caribbean kitchens.