Sea Cloud under full sail off Sicily As we look toward Summer 2026, the travel world is changing. People are moving away from crowded 'tourist traps' in favour of what I’ve always called ‘Real Experiences.’ Whether it’s a luxury windjammer in the Med or a hidden cove in North Devon, this summer is all about finding the soul of a place. Here are my top recommendations from my own notebooks and journeys. Mount Etna gently smokes above a calm sea The Mediterranean Reimagined: Small Ship Cruising The Vibe: Sailing from Naples to Valletta. If you can afford it, skip the giant liners and look for wind-powered heritage vessels. A luxury holiday under sail gives you so, so much more—somehow you are a lot more connected to the sea and you feel that you’ve been on a real maritime journey. Plus, smaller sailing vessels like the Sea Cloud can visit much more intimate ports of call. Read more:Sailing Around Sicily & The Sea Cloud Spirit The "Cool-Cation" – Switzerland With Mediterranean summers getting hotter, Switzerland is a massive 2026 trend. The Vibe: Belle Époque elegance and mountain air. Steamer leaving Vitznau Follow in Mark Twain’s footsteps in Vitznau for a quieter, cooler summer escape. These cool mountain resorts really do offer a unique atmosphere in summer. There’s always plenty to do—endless walks, boat rides, funicular journeys, and excellent restaurants. Read more:Swiss Historic Hotels and The Matterhorn Steamer docks at Vitznau The Secret West Country A West Country holiday in 2026 offers the ultimate "slow travel" escape, where the allure of the Atlantic coast meets a sophisticated, human-centred revival of heritage and food. While the Mediterranean swelters, you can find sanctuary in the "cool-cation" breeze of the North Devon cliffs or the shaded coombes of Exmoor, perhaps timing your visit to catch the 50th-anniversary celebrations of Aardman in Bristol or a first-hand foraging masterclass along the Jurassic Coast. Exmoor Coast, looking down on Lynton and Lynmouth From the rejuvenated seaside charm of Clevedon on the Somerset coast to the timeless, salt-sprayed paths of Porthleven, the region remains a bastion of authentic, non-automated experiences where every pint of craft cider and every hidden cove tells a story that no algorithm could ever replicate. Clevedon Pier on a calm summer's day The Vibe: Hidden waterfalls and circular walks with a pub at the end. Head to the "untrodden" parts of the South West Coast Path to avoid the July and August crowds. Read more:Speke’s Mill Mouth: Devon’s Secret Seaside Read more:The Classic Fowey Circular Walk Speke's Mill Mouth beach Summer Flavours Summer 2026 is the season of the 'grown-up' drink—where the ancient art of the West Country meets modern refinement. Forget the mass-produced fizz; this year is all about the revived méthode champenoise techniques. Whether it’s the hefty, smoky tannins of a vintage cider or the crisp, botanical notes of a small-batch coastal gin, these are 'liquid stories' that celebrate the true heritage of the vine and orchard. The Vibe: Alfresco dining and artisanal drinks. Read more: Vintage Ciders Vintage ciders Heading North: Denmark & Scotland While the Mediterranean remains iconic, the 'punishing' heatwaves of recent years have changed the game. For Summer 2026, savvy travellers are looking North. I’ve spent time exploring the 'Coastal Lands' of Denmark and the rugged beauty of Scotland, finding that you don’t need blistering heat to have a world-class seaside holiday. Negotiating the locks on the Calednonian Canal Denmark: Kystlandet and the "Newlyn of the North" When I visited Northern Denmark, I was struck by the incredible quality of the light, which I learned gave rise to an artistic connection between Cornwall and Denmark. The Destination: Skagen and Kystlandet (The Coastal Land). I’d also recommend a stay at the Jørgensens Hotel in Horsens for a civilised, quiet, and well-mannered escape. Jetty in Kystlandet Read more: Skagen, Denmark: Artists and Light Read more: Aarhus: Europe's City of Smiles Scotland: The Great Glen and the "Spirit of Scotland" For those seeking the "Big North" feel without leaving the UK, the Caledonian Canal offers a majestic alternative. The Vibe: Sumptuous on-board dining while gliding past Ben Nevis. It’s "Slow Travel" at its finest. Read more: Spirit of Scotland Barge Cruise Landscape on the isle of Tuno What are the biggest travel trends for Summer 2026? Travellers are increasingly looking for cooler destinations, walking holidays, authentic food experiences and slower, more sustainable ways to explore. What is a coolcation? A coolcation is a summer holiday in a destination with milder temperatures, such as the Alps, Scandinavia or the Atlantic coast, rather than the hottest Mediterranean resorts. Why are walking holidays becoming more popular? Walking holidays combine exercise, nature, local culture and good food, making them one of Europe's fastest-growing forms of leisure travel. Is the West Country a good summer alternative to overseas travel? Yes. Devon, Cornwall, Somerset and Exmoor offer spectacular coastlines, walking routes, excellent food and generally cooler temperatures than many southern European destinations.

Rediscovering Bristol’s Harbourside Charm Sipping a pint of beer the other day, the thought struck me that we humans are an odd lot. Many of us will have often made the same observation, but on this occasion it was inspired by both the beer and the lively and interesting view out of the bar’s window. Here I was in the heart of Bristol - a city I know well, but haven’t visited for years - and I was struck by how odd it is that we humans we often tend to ignore the good things around us. For example, various London friends tell me that they rarely go to the West End, despite the fact that it was one of the reasons they moved to the capital city in the first place. I am like that when it comes to this region’s handful of cities. I used to be a regular visitor to Bristol back in the days when arts venues like the Arnolfini and the Watershed were first opening, but haven’t been back in yonks. So, sipping this pint of excellent beer while looking out of the large windows of a very pleasant and trendy waterside bar, I was overcome by feelings of regret. It was a beautiful sunny day last week and Bristol’s old harbour area was looking attractive, glitzy and fascinating. I should definitely visit more often. Bristol Brewery Tours: A Visit to the Bristol Beer Factory Even the pub itself was intriguing, as was the pint of ale I keep mentioning. The dockside watering hole happened to be run by the same brewery that had made the beer - a brewery that, in my ignorance, I had not really come across before… A brewery which now happens to be one of the largest and most dynamic in all of South West England. I really do need to get out more - is what I ended up thinking… And without further ado, I did just that. I left the excellent Junction bar, down on busy Wapping Wharf, and walked a mile or so west to meet the team at the Bristol Beer Factory - a business which, in its own way, has been witness to the city’s more recent development and evolution. Back when I was haunting Bristol’s start-up galleries, art cinemas and student bars 40 years ago, the regional capital still had one foot in the grime of the Industrial Revolution - now it is widely considered one of the UK’s most desirable cities. Why Bristol Is One of the UK’s Best Places to Live And that, apparently, is thanks to the high quality of life in general, the vibrant cultural scene, and the many green and watery spaces you’ll find somewhere within sight of that famous suspension bridge. Bristol consistently ranks high in those perennial “best city in which to live” lists - it has been named Britain’s only “European Green Capital” - and it was also recognised as the country’s “happiest city” in 2024. Now, obviously none of this can be down to a single brewery no matter how good the pints it produces - but it does seem that the rise and rise of the Bristol Beer Factory reflects, to some extent, the upturn in the city’s fortunes. The Story of Bristol Beer Factory: From Milk Stout to Modern Success To find out more, I sat down in the Bristol Beer Factory’s HQ with managing director Sam Burrows and e-commerce and marketing manager Kezia Williams, who were able to provide an outline of the brewery’s 21-year journey. The story begins with its founding in 2004 and continues through two decades to the leading, modern, and socially-conscious brewery we see today. Craft Beer Heritage and Innovation The story includes early recognition, which came in 2006 after the award-winning resurrection of famous Milk Stout recipe. After that, BBF established itself as Bristol’s first modern craft brewery, introducing popular, hoppy pale-ales like Independence and Southville Hop around 2010. Sam credits part of its success to strategic investment during the COVID-19 pandemic, resulting in a full rebrand, the introduction of lagers, and the phenomenal growth of its alcohol-free Clear Head, now its second best-selling beer. And Clear Head, by the way, is a key part of their partnership with Talk Club, a men’s mental fitness charity, demonstrating a commitment to community health and social impact. Brewing in Bristol’s BS3 Heartland Due to the company’s massive growth (now employing over 110 people across the brewery and six pubs) and also because of the physical constraints of the old brewery buildings, the Bristol Beer Factory recently moved its production to a modern new facility just down the road, choosing a location that keeps its BS3 heritage. If you don’t know the city, perhaps it’s worth noting that BS3 plays host to the Ashton Gate stadium and Bristol City Football Club. The area south of the Cumberland Basin is just about as Bristol as Bristol can get. Heritage, Community and Craft Beer Identity “George Ferguson, a local architect and one of our founders, was really keen to keep all this heritage going, which is one reason he bought up the old brewery buildings here, as well as a nearby tobacco factory,” Sam told me. “They’d been brewing on this site since the 1830s - it stopped in the 1930s, then started again in 2004 when Bristol Beer Factory was formed. Early on, they found an original recipe for the milk stout that was brewed here - and it went on to win a major Campaign For Real Ale Award. “After that we became the first Bristol brewery on the craft brewing scene. Our USP has always been having a huge variety of different beers and specials.” Across their can, keg, and cask ranges, they produce around 35 to 40 different different beers or products a year. They also focus on new releases around seasonality and time-of-year. And alcohol content is also important - BBF concentrate on brewing beers with a “drinkable ABV,” generally between just 3.8% and a little higher, which is much more amenable to pub customers. Clear Head and the Alcohol-Free Craft Beer Movement “The fact that Clear Head sells so well indicates its quality and taste,” said Kezia. “We have successfully overcome some of the negative perceptions alcohol-free beers have had in the past. The recipe was perfected by Head Brewer, Tristan Hembrow, during the COVID-19 lockdown, and demonstrates the commitment we had to investment and innovation during a difficult time.” Bristol Beer Factory: Community, Charity and Brewed to Give As a food and drink writer, I’ve been to literally scores of breweries down the years, but if I’m honest I can’t remember ever visiting an outfit like the Bristol Beer Factory before. The entire operation seems so switched-on, for lack of a better phrase. The people I met who work there really do appear to share an enthusiasm - it’s as though they’re working for a sports team, rather than just another business. Perhaps one way of trying to explain this sense of togetherness which extends almost to evangelism, is to mention the company’s charitable work. In the last two years BBF has raised a staggering £625,000 for community groups across the city through its Brewed to Give initiative. Launched in 2023, the initiative pledges two percent from every brewery sale to local charities and causes. It is about more than just signing a cheque. “We donate cost-price beer, bar equipment, event space and hands-on support, helping groups raise funds for themselves, from street festivals to school raffles,” Sam explained. “In doing so, Brewed to Give flips beer into real cash, maximising the impact of its support and meaning that one hundred percent of the funds raised are kept by the community, for the community. “Every keg, cask or can leaving our yard gives something back to the city. “Brewed to Give is about connection, fairness and doing our bit for Bristol. We’re not just brewing beer, we’re helping brew a fairer city, and every pint counts.” You could say that the ales and lagers coming out of the new brewery close to the Ashton Gate stadium really do manage to reach parts other beers fail to connect with. I certainly enjoyed meeting the team, I enjoyed my brewery tour (which is something readers can do if they visit https://www.bristolbeerfactory.co.uk) and my lunch at one of the BBF venues, as well as the box of different beers, stouts and ales that I took home. And, as it happens, I thoroughly enjoyed my recent visit to central Bristol. I really should embrace our inner cities more often. SIDEBAR: Thumbs Up For Low Alcohol and a Clear Head On a tour of BBF’s impressive new brewery, head brewer Tristan Hembrow told me they use lactose in the recipe for Clear Head to give it a better mouthfeel, so it doesn’t “feel like water” which is a common complaint with alcohol-free alternatives. I’m happy to vouch that it is a very good option. Being an old fashioned imbiber of beer, I’ve not really taken to alcohol-free (or low-alcohol) options down the years, but I would be more than happy to have a pint or two of Clear Head. It is sold straight out the tap, just like any real-ale in a pub, so you can happily quaff pints and not feel left out when your mates are enjoying what some of us old dinosaurs would call “the real thing”. Tasting notes say: “With big hitting US hops Citra and Mosaic, this beer has plenty of punch as well as a subtle smooth creamy sweetness. Sharp citrus, apple and stone fruits shine through, finishing with a crisp dryness on your palette. Pairing well with everything, this beer will see you through all the seasons without the need for alcohol.” I also enjoyed BBF’s new Gravity Pils Lager (4.1% abv). “A pure, unfiltered pilsner with classic Czech character. Noble hops deliver fresh, crisp energy with a clean, refreshing finish.” Is Bristol Beer Factory open to visitors? Bristol Beer Factory regularly welcomes visitors through its taproom and selected brewery events. Check opening times before travelling. What is Bristol famous for besides beer? Bristol is famous for its historic floating harbour, street art, independent food scene, music, and vibrant cultural life alongside its excellent breweries. Is Bristol good for craft beer? Yes. Bristol is widely regarded as one of the UK's leading craft beer destinations, with numerous independent breweries, taprooms and traditional pubs. Can you visit breweries in Bristol? Several Bristol breweries offer tours, taprooms or special tasting events throughout the year. When is the best time to visit Bristol? Spring through autumn offers the best weather for exploring the harbourside, brewery taprooms and outdoor beer gardens.

Looking for one of the prettiest short walks in South Devon? This 3.5-mile circular walk around Tuckenhay follows the tranquil shores of Bow Creek before climbing to the hidden village of Cornworthy and returning via Corkscrew Hill. Expect waterside scenery, abundant birdlife, ancient lanes and one of Devon's finest pub finishes. The Dart Valley cuts a slice of countryside so deep and secluded that it feels a world away—and this short, sensational loop from the creek-side hamlet of Tuckenhay is proof. This 3.5-mile circular walk is utterly crammed with waterside views, the haunting call of wildfowl, ancient trackways, and picturesque, time-forgotten villages. It scores at least nine-out-of-ten on the 'Hesp-patent-Hikometer'. If you like these posts take a look at our Devon page here Starting from The Maltster's Arms The journey begins right outside the legendary Maltster’s Arms pub, perfectly positioned for a post-hike reward. Leave the pub and proceed east to the little side creek which plays host to Tuckenhay Bridge. Cross the stile at the end of the creek and follow the footpath along the water’s edge. The path immediately wends and weaves along the lower contours of the Bow Wood nature reserve. This wonderful 30-acre corner of paradise—owned by the Tuppen family—is a haven of peace and quiet, delighting local wildlife thanks to the 13,000 native trees that have been planted. Bow Creek: A Hidden Haven of Haunted Mystery Eventually, the path opens onto the main expanse of Bow Creek. This hidden haven has an atmosphere of haunted mystery about it—it is Devon’s beautiful, secluded answer to Cornwall’s Frenchman's Creek. Keep an eye out for the resident shelduck, egrets, and piping oyster-catchers. (Note: The path follows the creek east, but a sign on a gate unfortunately prevents wandering all the way to Dittisham Mill Creek. It's inland for us now!) Climbing to the Mysterious Cornworthy Leave the water’s edge for a beautiful ancient track that heads inland, leading you up to the lovely old village of Cornworthy. Jane Fitzgerald, in her book Off The Map, describes how "The village of Cornworthy is almost lost between the hills that surround it. The dark stone buildings give it a rather serious air." With the history of the old Priory (now just a series of mounds) lying nearby, this place certainly feels deep and mysterious, carrying the genuine 'feel of ages'. The Grand Finale: Panoramic Views from Corkscrew Hill The final leg of the hike offers the ultimate reward: the return over Corkscrew Hill. This part of the walk offers fabulous, sweeping views—not only of Bow Creek far below, but across a whole swathe of this eastern corner of the South Hams. As the track begins its sharp descent to Tuckenhay Bridge, you can opt for the footpath that offers a shortcut across a steep field. If you do, you'll get a spectacular, helicopter view of the waterside homes—maybe one day! An evening view of Bow Creek at Tuckenhay Floyd Flashback: The Maltsters and the TV Chef For those who love a dash of celebrity history with their hike, the start of this walk is famous for its former owner: the legendary, bolshie, wine-swilling TV presenter, Keith Floyd. A West Country boy born and bred, Floyd ran The Maltster's Arms for a while. Though he is long gone, tales and legends of his time remain by the notebook load. It’s hard to imagine finding anywhere deeper and more secluded in the Devon countryside than Tuckenhay, and yet it was home to one of TV’s most irreverent stars. Raise a pint in the snug bar in honour of the region's most famous—perhaps only—TV chef. Fact File Basic Hike: Circular route from Tuckenhay along Bow Creek, up to Cornworthy, and return over Corkscrew Hill. Recommended Map: Ordnance Survey Outdoor Leisure 20 - South Devon. Distance and Going: Approximately 3.5–4 miles, good going, but be prepared for a steep climb/descent (Corkscrew Hill) and a few muddy spots. The landlord wisely recommends going clockwise to descend the steepest part. Beautiful Bow Creek near Tuckenhay Is the Tuckenhay circular walk difficult? The route is around 3.5 miles with generally good paths, although there is one steep climb and descent around Corkscrew Hill. How long does the walk take? Most walkers should allow between 1½ and 2 hours, longer if stopping for photographs or birdwatching. Where do you park for the Tuckenhay walk? Parking is available near Tuckenhay and around The Maltsters Arms, although spaces can be limited during busy periods. Is the walk dog friendly? Yes, but dogs should be kept under control around livestock and wildlife. Can you eat after the walk? The Maltsters Arms is one of South Devon's best-known riverside pubs and makes an excellent place to finish the walk.

Wild salmon… The two words conjure images of magnificent creatures leaping waterfalls as they make their way back to the place where they were born to spawn the next generation, after completing one of the most remarkable migratory routes imaginable. And for better or worse, the idea of local wild salmon also conjures thoughts of one of the most delicious seafoods available. Or I should say, used to be available. Because last summer was the final time any of us get the chance to taste this most fabulous of fish for a decade or more. The End of Salmon Netting on the River Exe Netting for salmon in England’s estuaries has come to an end now that a 10-year ban has been put in place in a bid to see if the move helps to reverse the decline in stocks. The move ended more than 1000 years of tradition and history. There’s documentary evidence to show that folk were netting these gleaming fish on the River Exe, for example, for centuries - maybe even since Roman times. So you can imagine my enthusiasm when a young chef called Tom Williams invited me to a special wild salmon supper at his excellent Salutation Inn, in Topsham. Actually, I couldn’t make it - but I did want to know about the salmon. It turned out that Tom’s dad, Ed Williams - a well known figure around the Exe estuary - is a member of a crew of nets-men who are licensed to fish for the salmon. Ed goes out onto the river for just two-and-a-half months a year with a man called Terry Rowsell and his crew - and they invited me to join them one day this week to see what the seine-netting is all about. A Day with the Last Salmon Netters I can tell you one thing it’s not about: catching fish. We returned to Topsham empty handed after a few hours hauling nets out on the mudbanks downstream. Indeed, they’d only caught two fish (along with two sea trout) in three weeks when I visited - but what they do catch, son Tom buys for the historic Salutation Inn, where he is occasionally able to put on special wild salmon suppers as a traditional treat for his regulars. It’s hard to believe that the ancient netting practise can be too ruinous for salmon stocks. These were only three boats left with a license on the Exe and , as I say, they only fished for 10 weeks a year. And when you see how seine-netting works, it is environmentally-friendly. The net is only in the water for 20 minutes and it does not cross the entire stream between the mud-banks. Even if all three boats were to shoot nets three or four times every day (which they don’t) it would leave the migratory fish pretty much unhindered. Terry told me the last time a count was made two years ago, the River Exe anglers recorded catches of more 600 salmon (many of which would have been returned) while all three netting boats together accounted for just 100. “I’ve done this all my life,” said 81-year-old Terry as we set off aboard his small boat. There used to be 25 licensed boats in my young days and then we’d make more money… Say we’d get a fiver a week in a normal job - when we were salmoning we could make as much as 60 quid. “It was nothing for us to catch 20 or 30 on a tide. Now you’re lucky to catch one or two. I think the gill nets (out to sea) are to blame.” “They’re monofilament nets and they shoot them for 25 miles,” added Ed. “What we catch doesn’t affect the stocks, we don’t think,” said Terry. “So they (the Environment Agency) are finishing a way of life. I’ve done it for 70 years, since I was a tacker. It was your real livelihood back then. There’s no money it now. Since they got the farmed salmon in Scotland - that killed the wild salmon prices. But anything wild tastes better. The Future of Wild Salmon in England “Now this fishing will be gone. There will be nobody left to do it in ten years time. I make the nets myself and no one will know how to do that. There’ll be nobody around who wants to do it anyway. Next year it will be all gone. It makes me feel sad because I think the tradition should carry on. It won’t come back - who will want to do it? You‘ve been out today - we didn’t get anything - so it’s cost me more money in petrol than anything I could make.” Beaten but not defeated… I may have been going home with an empty cool box but Ed’s son Tom had invited me to lunch at the Salutation Inn where he had prepared the most amazing seafood platter - which included a portion of the wild River Exe salmon. It was delicious and later Tom told me how his family had bought the old coaching in eight years ago and refurbished it to become the luxurious watering hole that it is today. He also told me about his own impressive career as a chef and about how he has a passion for the wild salmon that his father Ed and Terry occasionally manage to catch. “We get amazing fish,” said Tom. “If it’s not from the river it’s from the sea nearby. We’ve just had a load of lobsters in fresh from Ladram Bay. We like to get all the wild salmon that’s caught and I’m lucky that dad is a member of one of the crews. We also get salmon from another boat. Why Wild Salmon Taste Different “There is a huge difference (between wild and farmed salmon). You can see it in the appearance - it’s the depth of colour. The fish is so fresh - it hasn’t even been in a vehicle, just brought up the hill. The taste, the colour - it’s entirely different. These fishermen only take a small amount of the fish that are going up the river - and they do play a part in the preservation of the salmon.” I put it to Tom that quite a lot of the recipes you see today designed to mask the flavour of farmed salmon rather than highlight it. “We like to keep it simple,” he told me. “ Fillet it down, take the pin-bones out and score the skin - then just pan fry it. We do that as one option, but if they have a good landing we might cure it - and if there’s a really good landing we will get it cold-smoked. That is so good - when you look at that compared to supermarket smoked salmon, there is a vast difference. “We’ve done tartare salmon (raw) for a canapé party - literally just diced some with a bit of horseradish or come capers. It just doesn’t need too much doing to it. “Serving salmon here is a tradition that is a part of Topsham,” Tom added. “It has been going on for generations and generations. It is a special product that needs to be celebrated - and it is part of the town.” Tom Williams’ wild River Exe salmon with summer vegetables and basil cream Ingredients, (serves two) 2 portions wild salmon fillets, scaled and pin-boned Handful cherry tomatoes Two medium plum tomatoes 2 little gem lettuces, washed and halved Small bunch of English asparagus Large bunch of basil – keeping a few smaller leaves aside for garnish Samphire – ask your fishmonger 250ml single cream Small bundle of thyme 100ml fish stock (optional) 1 lemon 1 tbsp plain flour 2 tbsp black olive pureePreheat the oven to 150 degrees Summer vegetables Prepare the asparagus by removing the woody end and peel the stalk a little if it looks gnarly. Spike the cherry tomatoes and criss-cross the plum tomato on the top where it would attach to the vine. Lightly wash the samphire. Prepare a pan of boiling salted water and get a bowl of water full of ice ready. Blanch the asparagus for approx. three minutes, before plunging into the ice to refresh. Blanch the cherry tomatoes for 2 – 3 seconds, and the plum tomato for 10 seconds and add to the ice. Submerge the samphire in the boiling water for seconds, before adding to the ice. Blanch the basil leaves in the boiling water leaving the stalks on for three or four minutes until transparent and soft. Remove from the water and place in a blender with the cream. Blitz for a couple of minutes until you have a green basil foam. Pass through a fine sieve and season to taste. Remove all ingredients from the ice onto a tray lined with kitchen roll to drain. De-skin the tomatoes, de-seed the plum tomato and dice finely. Put the cherry tomatoes onto a lightly oiled baking tray and roast for 8 minutes. In a medium hot frying pan, add light olive oil and sauté the gem lettuce along with the thyme. Season well with salt and pepper. Once it starts to wilt, add a little fish stock if you would like to cook the lettuce thoroughly and for a deeper flavour – alternatively leave it so a little bite remains. Lightly flour the fish skin and season the fish all over. In a non-stick pan, cook skin side down for four to five minutes depending on how pink you like the fish. Turn over to seal the underside. Remove from the pan and season with a squeeze of fresh lemon juice. Lightly warm the rest of the ingredients through the oven with a little olive oil. Arrange nicely on the plate with little splodges of black olive puree, a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil to taste and garnish with the small basil leaves. Watching Terry and his crew haul those heavy nets through the tidal waters of the Exe, it struck me that this was about far more than catching fish. It was the end of a craft handed down through generations, the loss of a unique vocabulary and a way of life that had survived wars, recessions and changing fashions. Whether the ban succeeds in restoring salmon numbers remains to be seen, but nobody can deny that something precious disappeared when those nets were finally folded away. Frequently Asked Questions About Wild Salmon Netting Why has salmon netting on the River Exe ended? Commercial salmon netting in England's estuaries has been suspended under conservation measures designed to help declining wild salmon populations recover. The ban marked the end of a fishing tradition that had continued for many centuries. Is wild salmon different from farmed salmon? Yes. Wild salmon generally have firmer flesh, a deeper natural colour and a richer flavour because of their varied diet and active lifestyle. Many chefs regard wild salmon as one of Britain's finest seasonal foods. Where was salmon netting carried out? For generations, licensed fishermen worked the tidal waters of the River Exe near Topsham using traditional seine nets, passing their skills from one generation to the next. Can you still eat wild British salmon? Wild salmon is now rarely available in England because of conservation measures and strict fishing restrictions designed to protect declining stocks. Why are wild salmon numbers declining? Scientists believe several factors have contributed, including climate change, pollution, barriers to migration, habitat loss and changing conditions at sea. Conservation measures aim to improve the chances of recovery.

Most people assume that every cup of tea drunk in Britain begins life on a plantation thousands of miles away in India, Sri Lanka or China. Few realise that some of England's finest tea is actually grown in Cornwall. Hidden within the sheltered valleys of the Tregothnan Estate, near Truro, thousands of tea bushes flourish in a unique microclimate, producing award-winning English tea that has surprised growers around the world. I first met the remarkable Jonathon Jones, the visionary behind the project, some years ago, and his story of determination, innovation and horticultural daring remains one of the most fascinating I've encountered in more than fifty years as a West Country journalist. Can tea really be grown in England? I’ve known Jonathon Jones, of Cornwall’s amazing Tregothnan Estate, for many years - and was glad to hear he’d recently been awarded the OBE - which he richly deserves as he is a passionate man who constantly goes the extra mile to promote the fantastic tea they produce from the beautiful gardens high above the River Fal. In the podcast Jonathon tells me all about Cornish tea - but here’s an article I once wrote about the estate’s amazing rhododendrons which also get a brief mention in our chat… Read More About Cornwall by clicking here Some of the biggest early blooms in Britain have been braving recent storms to show their colours in Cornwall. How Cornwall became Britain's tea-growing county Magnolia campbellii has become the signifier for spring in England - and each year during this February weekend six ancient trees located across the county are famed for producing more than 50 open blooms apiece. Yesterday staff at Tregothnan Gardens had counted 47 open blooms - each the size of a dinner plate - but they say hundreds more are poised to open on Monday. “Tregothnan has been consistently warmer than Darjeeling in India all winter,” commented Jonathon Jones, managing director of trading at Tregothnan. “The famous flouncy pink magnolia tree comes from Darjeeling and often bursts into flower at Tregothnan at exactly the same time as its siblings in India.” Mr Jones explained: “The magnolia was a confirmation to the botanists at Tregothnan that tea bushes would thrive alongside these trees, just like they do in Darjeeling. So the first tea in the UK was established and is now marketed as the most British tea in history. “The forecast is for more winter warmth and a typically early spring tea season at the Europe’s largest tea gardens,” he added. The tea gardens are open by appointment and attract visitors from across the world, including the official twinning committee from Darjeeling. “Tea tourism has become a flourishing business, continuing with a fascination with our national drink,” said Mr Jones. “The charity weekend on 13th April is set to be the biggest yet, raising funds for iSight Cornwall. “Premium tea sales have risen rapidly since the referendum to leave the EU, a phenomena that we believe is twofold. Tea offers comfort in times of uncertainty and is celebrated by exporters of Britishness to Commonwealth countries and the USA. “Leaves picked in January are already on sale in top London stores,” said Mr Jones. Frequently Asked Questions About Cornish Tea Can tea really be grown in England? Yes. Although most of the world's tea comes from countries such as India, Sri Lanka and China, tea can also be grown successfully in parts of England with the right climate. Cornwall's mild winters, high rainfall and sheltered valleys create ideal conditions for growing tea plants. Where is Tregothnan Tea grown? Tregothnan Tea is grown on the historic Tregothnan Estate near Truro in Cornwall. The estate's unique microclimate allows tea bushes to thrive, making it one of England's best-known tea-growing estates. Who is Jonathon Jones OBE? Jonathon Jones OBE is the entrepreneur and horticultural pioneer behind Tregothnan's successful tea-growing venture. His vision helped prove that high-quality tea could be produced commercially in Cornwall, attracting international attention for English-grown tea. Is Tregothnan the only tea plantation in England? Tregothnan was the first estate to produce English-grown tea commercially and remains the country's most famous tea producer. A small number of other growers have since established tea gardens elsewhere in England, but Cornwall remains closely associated with the revival of British tea growing. What makes Cornish tea different? Cornish tea benefits from Cornwall's unique combination of mild temperatures, plentiful rainfall and fertile soil. The leaves are carefully picked and processed on the estate, producing distinctive teas with delicate flavours and a strong sense of place. Can you visit the Tregothnan Estate? The Tregothnan Estate is not generally open to the public in the same way as many country houses and gardens, although special guided tours and events are occasionally organised. Visitors can, however, enjoy Tregothnan tea in selected cafés, hotels and retailers throughout Cornwall and beyond. What is the difference between Cornish tea and a Cornish cream tea? They are quite different. Cornish tea refers to tea grown in Cornwall, while a Cornish cream tea is the traditional West Country treat of freshly baked scones served with strawberry jam, Cornish clotted cream and a pot of tea. Why is the story of Cornish tea so remarkable? For centuries Britain has been one of the world's great tea-drinking nations, yet almost all of its tea was imported. The success of Tregothnan demonstrated that tea could be grown commercially in England, creating a fascinating new chapter in Cornwall's rich agricultural and horticultural history.

Few culinary traditions are as delightfully English as the classic cream tea. Freshly baked scones, rich West Country clotted cream, fruity strawberry jam and a pot of proper tea have been bringing friends and families together for generations. While the friendly rivalry between Devon and Cornwall over whether the jam or the cream should go on first continues to make headlines, neighbouring Somerset quietly serves some of the finest cream teas in the country. Over many years of exploring the West Country, I've discovered that some of the loveliest tea gardens are tucked away among Somerset's villages, gardens and rolling countryside. In this guide I'll explain what makes a traditional English cream tea so special, explore its fascinating history and share some of my favourite places to enjoy this timeless treat. A Quintessential British Food Dispute: The Cream Tea Conundrum Over the years I have written a great many articles about the classic Engish cream tea - mainly based on the big row that goes on between Devon and Cornwall concerning whether it’s cream or jam first? It’s all a bit silly really - something made up by journalists like me who needed good stories and head-lines during the slack period of high summer. I've eaten cream teas from Padstow to Porlock and have lost count of the number of Devon and Cornwall tea gardens I've visited over the last fifty years... Other regions in the world have their big debates—some disputes are centuries old, others lead to bloodshed—but few resurface and inspire so many storms-in-a-teacup as the great Westcountry debate concerning cream teas. Cream or Jam First? The Question That Divides a Region Should you adorn a scone with cream or jam first? It’s an overriding question that has spurned a thousand newspaper headlines, let alone heated debates in otherwise quiet and polite tea-rooms. But now one of the country’s leading mathematicians has used logic and numeric wizardry to come down firmly on the side of the latter. It is the jam first... At least, it is according to the latest research carried out by Dr Eugenia Cheng from the University of Sheffield’s School of Mathematics and Statistics. If you are enjoying this article, take a look at one of the best afternoon teas to be found anywhere by clicking here Cornwall Rejoices: A Win for the Jam-First Method The news is causing great excitement in Cornwall, which traditionally (but not altogether accurately) claims to be the home of the jam-first system. So much excitement, in fact, that Rodda’s—the county’s leading maker of clotted cream—will be mounting an exhibit explaining Dr Cheng’s new formula at its Royal Cornwall Show stand. Devon and Somerset Hit Back: A Cream-First Legacy But cream-tea lovers in Devon and Somerset (where traditionally the cream comes first) say they’re smelling something of a rat among the strawberries. It was, they point out, none other than Rodda’s who commissioned the new study. Cue: protestations of innocence from the Cornish company: “When we commissioned the research we specially chose a university professor from out of the county because we wanted it to be objective,” a spokesman told the Western Morning News. “And Dr Cheng is someone who is famous for connecting food and maths. We put it to her because we wanted her to come up with a perfect cream-tea equation. The Science Behind the Scone: Dr Cheng’s Cream Tea Formula “What she’s talking about is not just the clotted cream question, but also the whipped cream controversy,” the spokesman continued. “People often use whipped cream in other parts of the country—this is about the importance of clotted cream. “We didn’t say to a top mathematician: ‘These are the results we want you to find’.” Dr Cheng’s formula calls for the jam to be spread first in order to avoid the danger of it running off the edge: “Jam, due to its density, needs to be spread prior to the application of the clotted cream—putting it on after the cream may cause the jam to run off—creating sticky fingers,” says Dr Cheng, who has made a film of her reasoning. She added that a 5mm rim should be left between the jam and the edge of the scone, and between the jam and cream. “Building a good scone is like building a good sandcastle – you need a wider base, and then it needs to get narrower as it goes up so that it doesn’t collapse or drip.” Devon Cream Tea Traditions and the Fight for PDO Status Although the logic might sound correct, it won’t please the folk who mustered around a campaign launched in May 2010 at the Devon County Show to have the name "Devon cream tea" protected within the EU under Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) rules. “It’s definitely cream first—it always has been since I was a little girl going to the Harvest Festival teas,” declares Heather Knee, of the award-winning Broadway House cream tea establishment in Topsham. “We’ve won many awards for our cream-teas including accolades from Taste of the West. We are the best in the west and this is the way you do it,” she added, pointing out the instructions on her website (broadwayhouse.com/creamtea) which call for no less than half an inch of cream first, then the jam. Signpost to tea room in the National Trust's Selworthy Green The National Trust’s Diplomatic Cream Tea Solution Most purveyors of cream teas take the middle road. A spokesman for the National Trust, which has more tea-rooms than most, said: “Our catering department in the South West arranged a photo-shoot which showed scones with jam on top of the cream and we got complaints. They weren’t just a tease—people were deadly serious. So we serve the three ingredients separately, then people can arrange the scones, cream and jam as they please. It’s the only way.” Read about Cornish-grown tea in a fascinating article by clicking here Nick and Jacqui Dawe of the famous cream tea garden at Kilve Chantry Local Wisdom: "Just Do It How You Like It" And some believe the whole cream-first debate is nothing but a huge storm in a teacup. Nancy Johns—who, until this year, made cream teas professionally at Hartland Quay and Hartland Abbey for just under half a century—told the WMN: “I’m a Devon girl through and through—but I always put the cream on first, which they say is the Cornish way. It’s all a load of rubbish—you do it the way you grew up with—and a lot of people in this part of Devon put the cream on first. Just do it how you like it—that’s what I say.” Final Thoughts: The Cream Tea Will Always Be Personal Whether you favour jam first or cream, the West Country cream tea remains a beloved British tradition. While science may have its say, in the end, it’s taste, memory, and regional pride that rule the tea table.

My bike at Turf Lock The Exe Estuary Trail is widely regarded as one of the finest cycling routes in Devon. Following the shores of the River Exe between Exeter, Topsham, Lympstone and Exmouth, this largely traffic-free trail combines spectacular estuary views with abundant wildlife, waterside cafés and easy riding suitable for cyclists of almost every ability. It also forms part of the National Cycle Network Route 2. Cycling from Exeter to Exmouth No one needs a web article to tell them that estuaries are very, very special places. These zones where rivers meet the sea create a magical mix of fresh and salt water - a brackish blend that makes them some of the most productive and important habitats on Earth. Estuaries serve as nurseries for fish and shellfish, and are critical feeding grounds for thousands of migratory birds. But they’re more than just wildlife havens, estuaries are nature’s filters, cleaning pollutants from our waterways before they reach the ocean. Their salt-marshes and mudflats also act as natural defences, protecting coastlines from storm surges and erosion. They also happen to be fascinating and beautiful places where you can spend a day exploring creeks, wildlife reserves and waterside villages, as well as simply taking in the ever-changing scenes that come and go with the changing of the tides. 🚴‍♂️ Exe Estuary Trail – Quick Guide Serves: Day-trippers, cyclists, families, walkers Preparation Time: 1 day (allow 4–6 hours with stops) Difficulty: Easy to moderate (mostly flat, a few small hills) Ingredients: 🚲 A bike (electric or traditional – hire available in Exeter, Exmouth & Topsham) 🎟️ Ferry fare (£6 adult + £2 bike, cash only, Starcross–Exmouth, 07934 461672) 🥪 Snacks or pub lunch stop (try the Turf Hotel) 🐦 Binoculars for birdwatching (Bowling Green Marsh RSPB, Dawlish Warren) 💷 Fish & chips in Exmouth (Rockfish recommended) Method: Begin in Topsham (or Exeter/Exmouth if preferred). Cycle anticlockwise: follow pavements and quiet paths toward Exeter, crossing the A379 cycle bridge. Ride south past the Exeter Ship Canal, reedbeds and reserves, stopping at the Turf Hotel. Continue to Starcross – either cycle on via Dawlish Warren or cross to the ferry quay. Take the Starcross Ferry across to Exmouth’s new harbour (15 mins). Pause for seaside lunch or fish & chips, then follow the Exmouth promenade cycleway. Head north up the east bank through Lympstone, Exton and past Lympstone Manor, Nutwell Court, and the Royal Marines base. Cross the River Clyst bridge and enjoy birdwatching at Bowling Green Marsh. Return to Topsham to complete the full circuit (16 miles). Cycling the Exe Estuary Trail The reason I was thinking about estuaries one day last week was because I was cycling alongside one of the South West’s largest and most important. And when I say “cycled alongside” I really mean “circumnavigated”. How do you circumnavigate an estuary on a bicycle? Good question. You’d have difficulty cycling around many West Country estuaries - but there is one huge, glorious stretch of water, sand, reed and mud that is well-equipped for such an adventure. I’m talking about the Exe Estuary, which nowadays boasts the Exe Trail - a 16-mile stretch of bicycling beauty and pedalling perfection. I am happy to hurl all the superlatives I can at this long and winding road. A road which, of course, is for the most part restricted for the use of cyclists and walkers. It is wonderful. If you own a bicycle and live in the region, do yourself a favour and ride along all or part of it soon. Why I Love Cycling with an Electric Bike I say that as the owner of a very good electric bike - and I mention this for two reasons… One, because I have no truck with those pedantic pedallists who go around declaring that electric bikes are a form of cheating. Cheating what, or who? I get nothing but 100 percent enjoyment out of my mountain bike and if its electric motor makes life just a little bit easier, then so much the better. Secondly, as a car driver whose job has required him to travel far too many miles along the West Country’s narrow and windy roads for the past quarter of a century, I am only too aware of the dangers of cycling on the highway. Yes, bicycles have every right on our roads - but, no, I don’t have the courage to be on one. A quiet country lane is as brave as I get. So a dedicated cycle-way feels like heaven. We should have more of them. Practical Information – Riding the Exe Estuary Trail Length: 16 miles (mostly flat, with a few gentle hills) Start/Finish: Topsham, Exeter, Exmouth, or Dawlish Warren Highlights: Wildlife reserves, historic pubs, seaside towns, ferries, castles, boardwalks Bike Hire: Available in Exeter, Exmouth, and Topsham Ferry Info: Starcross to Exmouth ferry (cash only) Starting the Ride in Topsham I was pleased to discover that even the highway sections of the Exe Trail run along special dedicated sections of pavement or footpath. We discovered this soon after leaving Topsham, which is where we chose to park and begin our adventure. My friends who’d done the excursion before were planning to take the little Topsham ferry, which takes you across the Exe to the extensive reed-beds on the west side and the cycleway which runs right down the western side of the estuary. Alas, the tides weren’t playing ball thanks to a large depression out in the Atlantic, and the ferryman told us his first service was going to be an hour late. The Exe Trail passes under the M5 motorway We were determined to stick to our anticlockwise plan for the bike ride, so decided to take in the more urban part of the ride up towards Exeter. After pedalling along pavements and down side streets for a couple of miles we crossed the busy A379 near Countess Weir. Here the trail crosses the Exe via a dedicated cycle bridge, which allowed us to immediately recross the road with the help of traffic lights to join the cycleway proper. Cycling the West Bank of the Exe Estuary That’s the boring bit over and done with. We’re now heading down the side of the Exeter Ship Canal, past the city’s sewerage works and under the M5 motorway, to start enjoying the wider open acres and vistas of the estuary. Many readers will know this section down the west side of the estuary, as it takes you past reed-beds, meadows and bird reserves to what is a rather famous pub, the 103-year-old Turf Hotel. To quote the pub’s website: “Our Grade-II listed building still holds its original shape, with slanting floors, wonky windows and snuggly alcoves bathed in natural light. Extensive gardens stretch across our unrivalled waterside setting, immersing guests in the natural beauty of Exeter Canal and the River Exe estuary.” We were duly immersed and refreshed with a drink, but didn’t have lunch as it was a little too early. Instead it was onwards and downwards, past the Powderham Estate and its castle, to the waterside village of Starcross. We must mention the railway here, as the entire cycle journey is accompanied by trains - fast express services and other slower trains on the mainline this side of the river, and local diesel units plying to and fro from Exmouth on the other. The trail towards Powderham Highlights Along the West Bank of the Exe Turf Hotel – a Grade-II listed pub with gardens stretching down to the estuary. Powderham Castle & Estate – sweeping historic parkland. Starcross – a railway village where you can choose to pedal on or catch the ferry to Exmouth. The Starcross ferry (£6 for adults, plus £2 for your bike – cash only, call 07934 461672) is a highlight. In just 15 minutes you’re gliding past Dawlish Warren and into Exmouth’s smart new harbour. Starcross Starcross to Exmouth by Ferry At Starcross you have a choice, you can either proceed along the Exe Trail, following it past Cockwood and around the inland part of Dawlish Warren, or you can do what we did and lug your bicycles over the mainline footbridge to reach the ferry quay. It is this excellent service which allows you to complete the circumnavigation (contact 07934 461672 - and note it’s cash only). A 15-minute voyage out of Starcross and along the inner shore of Dawlish Warren brings you to the actual mouth of the estuary, after which you are able to disembark at Exmouth’s posh new harbour area on the eastern shore. Very enjoyable indeed! The fare is £6 for adults and £2 for the bike - one of the few costs involved with this truly wonderful day-out. Starcross-Exmouth ferry Another cost for us was the fish and chip take-away we enjoyed from the Exmouth’s Rockfish outlet. Mitch Tonks’ seafood is always good and our Cornish hake and chips was no exception. Exmouth’s Rockfish Cycling the East Bank Back to Topsham After a tootle along the length of Exmouth’s expansive and busy seafront (which also has a dedicated cycleway along the promenade) we turned north and wove our way through the streets to the main Exeter road. Here the Exe Trail sensibly follows the pavement rather than the busy highway for half-a-mile before leaving it for the welcome peace and quiet of the waterside. The marina at Exmouth Now we are heading up the east bank of the estuary, and rather wonderfully the trail sticks to it just about all the way up to Topsham, where we began. There are a couple of exceptions where it climbs low hills to follow some very quiet lanes around Lympstone and Exton, but these little diversions are fun in their own way. You get to see how the other half live - by which I mean, the extremely wealthy other half. Blimey! This is East Devon’s Millionaire’s Row - some of the massively upgraded homes in the nether regions of these two villages are posh with a large capital P. Network Rail’s Exmouth branch-line runs between the trail and the waterside for much of the way, but it does not detract from the joy of the journey - in fact, the people who built the cycleway pulled out a great many stops when they devised this route up the estuary’s east bank. In quite a few places the trail runs along raised board-walk style sections, lifting cyclists and walkers above creeks and salt-marshes. We pass Michael Caines’ Lympstone Manor and its vineyard, and also the grand old mansion at Nutwell Court, as well as the famous Royal Marines base, which I’d never seen from the waterside before. Board-walk style sections, lifting cyclists and walkers above creeks and salt-marshes There’s a particularly impressive bridge crossing the River Clyst tributary, which in turn introduces you the the well-known Bowling Green Marsh RSPB reserve. And so on into Tospham which, as an estuary port, is one of the jewels in Devon’s crown. A Perfect Devon Cycling Day Out As I say, a truly wonderful day out. And certainly not too exhausting - the trail is mostly flat - there are just a couple of low hills to climb. If you own a bike, what are you waiting for? If you don’t, you can hire one for the day at various centres around the trail, all contactable online. Sidebar – Sustrans and the National Cycle Network The Exe Estuary Trail forms part of Route 2 on the National Cycle Network, cared for by Sustrans. The UK-wide network covers 12,000 miles of signed paths and routes for walking, wheeling, cycling and exploring outdoors. A spokesperson for Sustrans told me: “As custodians of the network, we have a vision for a society in which the way we travel creates healthier places and happier lives for everyone - so our mission is to make it easier for everyone to walk, wheel and cycle.” Frequently Asked Questions About the Exe Estuary Trail How long is the Exe Estuary Trail? The full Exe Estuary Trail is around 26 miles (42 km), linking Exeter, Exmouth and Dawlish Warren. Many cyclists choose shorter sections, such as Exeter to Exmouth, which is around 11 miles. Is the Exe Estuary Trail suitable for families? Yes. Much of the trail is flat, traffic-free and well surfaced, making it one of the best family-friendly cycle routes in Devon. Young children should still be supervised where the trail crosses roads or passes through busy areas. Can you hire bikes on the Exe Estuary Trail? Yes. Bike hire is available at several locations, including Exeter and Dawlish Warren, making it easy to enjoy the trail even if you don't have your own bicycle. Can you cycle the whole Exe Estuary? Yes. Many cyclists complete a circular route by using the seasonal ferry between Exmouth and Starcross before returning along the opposite side of the estuary. What wildlife might I see? The Exe Estuary is internationally important for birds. Depending on the season you may spot avocets, little egrets, oystercatchers, curlews, Brent geese and many other species. Is the Exe Estuary Trail difficult? No. It is regarded as one of Devon's easiest long-distance cycle rides because it is mostly level and largely traffic free, making it suitable for leisure cyclists and families. Where are the best places to stop? Popular stopping points include Exeter Quay, Topsham, Lympstone and Exmouth, where you'll find cafés, pubs, picnic spots and excellent views across the estuary. When is the best time to ride the Exe Estuary Trail? Spring and early autumn are ideal, with pleasant temperatures, colourful scenery and abundant birdlife. Summer is also popular, although it can be busier during school holidays.

If we think we are feeling lonely or isolated during the lockdown, why not try remembering the lot of the lighthouse keepers… That really was loneliness and isolation - especially if you were stuck on one of the many off-shore lights for months on end… Did the tall cylindrical marvels of Victorian engineering really shake and shudder when mountainous waves hit them? Was it a dangerous job? Was it boring? Were the keepers an odd bunch, as is sometimes suggested by modern myth? The answers to these and other questions are stranger and more fascinating than I could ever have imaged. I heard tales of waves smashing through windows more than 100 feet above the waves. I learned of the romance between husband and wife which saw them semaphoring one another across the maelstrom. I even got to know about kite-fishing – an exotic sport I’d never heard of before… To find out about the life and times of the West Country’s lighthouse keepers I once travelled nearly as west as you can get in England – to the village of Pendeen in West Penwith, which of course, has its very own light. The Lonely Life of a Lighthouse Keeper The Pendeen Watch as its sometimes called was the last posting of an extraordinary man with an extraordinary name. Handel Bluer is named after the composer – all the male members of his clan get the same musical treatment – but Handel is far more used to seeing a symphony of the ocean waves than he is hearing the orchestration of musicians. The first thing to say about Handel was that he had a sense of humour. He joked and laughed constantly regardless of the fact that he sometimes struggles to walk when I met him. “It’s the nerve-endings in my legs,” he told me. “At first they thought I’d got Lyme’s Disease because. But it’s not that – for a long time now I’ve been wondering if it’s the result of mercury poisoning.” Lighthouse keepers were no strangers to mercury, as Handel explained: “The waves do run up the side of the lighthouse and the mercury trough will be vibrated so much that the mercury will splash out. So then you have to go up there with a dustpan and brush cleaning up the mercury - you put it in a jar and then clean it. “You put it in a shammy leather, hold it over a container, then squeeze the leather hard as you can - and the mercury will go through the pores of the leather, but the dirt will stay behind.” Life on Cornwall's Offshore Lighthouses This not exactly healthy procedure was only necessary out on the big sea-borne lighthouses such as the Bishop Rock west of Scilly and the Longships, off Land’s End. They are what Handel calls “proper” lighthouses as opposed to the “convalescent homes” attached to large lumps of land. Handel has served in all types. After we’d removed ourselves from windy Pendeen Watch the mile or so to the snug bungalow he shares with his wife Joan, he told me something of his long career at Trinity House. “I was an engineer working in foundries. Things got a bit tight in the early Fifties - newly married, couple of kiddies - talk about recession… I had to have a job which was long lasting and I saw the advert for a lighthouse keeper. So I went for an interview and passed the examination. ‘Have you got two of everything?’ they asked. ‘Yes’. ‘Well then you can join’.” “Then it was a case of going round different lighthouses learning the ropes as you went. Every lighthouse is different - you would think it would be nice if every lighthouse had the same kind of diesel engine and generator, but they don’t. “Trinity House didn’t work like that. So you had to go around different lighthouses in order to learn all the different bits and pieces - which was fun. The only problem was in 1953-1956 you could be earning about £20-£25 a week - my wages suddenly went down to about £7.10 shillings – and I had to provide my own food whilst I was out there, but have enough food ashore to keep the wife and kiddies. How Lighthouse Keepers Lived Before Automation “That was a bit of a struggle, but we carried on,” shrugs Handel, who struck me as the kind of man who’d never be particularly fazed by anything. “Eventually I got posted to the Longships at Land’s End where there were cottages just ashore. “Lovely. Cottages facing due west so whenever the wind blew you knew about it - you didn’t have the windows open for too long. Around the door it was all painted white - a big white band - that was for the keepers to stand in with their black flags.” You have to picture this to even begin to imagine something so bizarre. Back in the days to which Handel refers there wasn’t much in the way of radio and certainly no mobile phones – so the keepers out on the Longships would communicate with their loved ones by semaphore. Joan Handel would stand in her cottage window doing the same. “You’d be surprised how fast you can go,” grinned Handel. “There are a lot of abbreviations - if I asked a question I might get the letter ‘y’ for yes and so on. There was one occasion when I upset the lady - I don’t know how I did it - but she just gave the V sign with the flags and shut the window. “In places like that you’ll do about two months out and one month on shore - if you’re lucky. When I say ‘if your lucky’ - one year on the Longships I only saw the wife for 90 days. That was because - if the weather’s against you - you can’t get off. “You've not got to let things worry you too much. I'm laid back - sometimes too laid back,” Handel muttered under his beard. “If it’s going to happen – it’s going to happen." Longships, Wolf Rock and Bishop Rock “There were always three lighthouse keepers locked up together,” replied Handel when I asked him about personnel numbers. He then told me the rather macabre reason why: “In the earlier days on smaller lighthouses there’d be just two – but there was this occasion when there were two blokes who came from the same village. They were known to always be arguing - and fate had it one day that one of the keepers died. “The other bloke can’t get rid of the body, otherwise people would say he killed him - so he lashed him to the rails outside the lantern and had him there for about six weeks before somebody noticed the arm wasn’t waving to the boats. It was a dead body flapping about. Eventually they got the man off - who was in a heck of a state and from then onwards it’s always been three keepers on a lighthouse.” It sounded like a silly kind of question, but I asked Handel about the basic work of a lighthouse keeper. “The light is there to guide mariners - it’s never there to say: ‘Keep away’. So our job was to maintain that light as a signal at its full brilliancy - at the correct characteristics - all night long, every night, whatever. “We used to work in turns,” said Handel, explaining the basic four hour system of watches. “If you had the morning watch, you were also the cook for the day. You had all morning to do it. The other two were going about doing the polishing, dusting and cleaning and filling up the oil tanks. “In the early days there was a clockwork mechanism,” Handel went on. “You had to wind it up every half hour - the Bishop Rock every hour - and there were a very heavy series of weights like a grandfather clock, except the chain went down the length of the tower. “That was sometimes useful, because if you had a difference on opinion with one of your colleagues and he just went to bed - this chain tube went down through the bedroom and you could wind up the weights, shall we say noisily.” I asked him about differences of opinion in such an enclosed space… “If you weren’t in charge, then you had to put up with what you got. When I became a principal keeper, then I could quite easily recommend that a person went somewhere else. But, yes, you had to learn you get on with each other. “Why we have politicians, I don’t know,” mused Handel. “Because when I was on a lighthouse we’d sort out the world in an afternoon.” Perhaps the best way to any man’s heart is through his belly: “You soon learned how to cook,” smiled Handel. “The first thing you were asked on a lighthouse was: 'How’s your gravy?' It was basically meat and two veg all the year round. We used to look happily in the lady’s magazines for the cookery tips.” The only real variation to the diet was fish – were lighthouse keepers keen on fishing? “Lots of fishing and kite-fishing,” he replied. “You would make a rather large kite about the size of a tabletop using cod-line - then you would make a line of feathers for the tailings. Then you would chuck it off the gallery and it would slowly start to come down. But, once the feathers hit the water, it (the kite) became buoyant. “So then you could fly it in an ark of about 100 to 150 yards from the tower. Yonks and yonks ago on the Eddystone we came in with a 20 pound pollock. Well, after that we persuaded a visiting mechanic if he could make us a little hand-driven winch on the gallery rail because a pollack 160 feet out the water gets a little hard on the fingers. “We used to have what we call a "rubbie-dubbie" bag - a net with rotten fish in it - and we would dangle it over the side. On the ebb the effluvia, shall we say, went along the water line and the fish were attracted to it. So we would fish in that line and you’d be surprised how many fish we caught - mackerel everyday - you could get pollack no problem. “We would decide we wanted a particular fish for supper - we would have some black bream - so we were chucking fish back until we had half a dozen black bream. We didn’t go hungry.” And what about the most obvious question of all: storms? Surely, I asked, being somewhere like Bishop Rock must have been terrifying in a maelstrom? “It’s frightening,” said Handel. “But you are reassured on the Bishop because it is two lighthouses in one really. The early lighthouse which was built in the 1700s - that one was a bit too low and a bit too narrow. So what they did was they encased that in the present lighthouse so the bottom two thirds of the Bishop Rock is actually two lighthouses thick. “The waves do run up the side of the lighthouse,” Handel went on. “If you really want bad weather, go to the Longships because that does disappear regularly. “Whenever a storm was due somebody had to go up on the roof and turn the valves round so any saltwater landing on the roof would be directed over the side and not into the (fresh) water tank. “On the Longships the fog signal was an explosive device which meant you had to 4oz chargers of gun cotton on a jib outside the lantern. Now the jib sometimes would get a bit stiff in operation - this meant going up a ladder, climbing up the roof and then going a quarter the way round the roof. This could be in the middle of the night in a blizzard - and often was. You weren’t sounding for fog - you were sounding for snow.” It sounded like an extraordinary existence – both frightening and interesting. I asked Handel to tell me about life after lighthouse keeping… “I retired at 65 as soon as the age came up. I said: ‘Thank you very much - now can I go?’ I asked if I could have a little bungalow. Fed up with steps you see. Not too big - and not too far from a pub - and here we are about 100 yards from the pub.” Did he miss being on a lighthouse? “I sometimes wake up in the middle of the night wondering if the light has gone out,” sighed Handel. “That would be a major thing - if the light went out… You wake up thinking - heck I’m home in bed. No, after 13 years in retirement I don’t miss it. I’ve got so many other things here I can do.” Frequently Asked Questions About Lighthouse Keepers What did a lighthouse keeper do? Lighthouse keepers maintained the light, cleaned the powerful lenses, operated fog signals, monitored the weather and ensured the lighthouse remained operational in all conditions. Their work was essential for the safety of ships at sea. Did lighthouse keepers really live alone? Some did. Offshore lighthouses often required small teams working together for weeks at a time, while particularly remote stations could feel intensely isolated, especially during winter storms. Are there still lighthouse keepers in the UK? Most British lighthouses are now fully automated and monitored remotely by Trinity House, so resident lighthouse keepers have largely disappeared. Their unique way of life is now part of Britain's maritime history. Which are Cornwall's most famous lighthouses? Among the best known are Longships Lighthouse off Land's End, Wolf Rock Lighthouse between Land's End and the Isles of Scilly, Godrevy Lighthouse near St Ives and Lizard Lighthouse on Cornwall's southern tip. What made lighthouse keeping so dangerous? Keepers faced violent Atlantic storms, huge breaking waves, mechanical failures and long periods without relief. Reaching offshore lighthouses often depended entirely on favourable weather. How long would lighthouse keepers stay on duty? Rotations varied depending on the lighthouse, but many keepers spent several weeks living on isolated rocks before being relieved by another crew. Why are people still fascinated by lighthouse keepers? The profession combined courage, solitude, responsibility and resilience. Their stories capture a disappearing world in which a handful of people protected countless lives from some of Britain's most hazardous coastlines.

Discovering the Wild Delights of Cornwall Whatever floats your boat… There are folk who prefer spending a November day in a crowded shopping mall, but I am not one of them. Give me a clean, remote, rocky, Cornish beach and a couple of top chefs to go foraging with, and I am one happy old newspaper hack - one who happens to love the idea of cooking with wild ingredients. 🐚 Cornwall is one of Britain's finest places for coastal foraging. From edible seaweeds and samphire to shellfish and wild coastal herbs, its beaches and rocky shores have inspired generations of chefs. During this unique day out I joined some of Cornwall's leading cooks to discover how they gather ingredients from the shoreline before turning them into restaurant-quality dishes The Joy of Cooking with Wild Ingredients One of the joys about being a keen home-cook is that there’s always plenty of new and exciting stuff to explore. Of course, even top professional chefs never stop learning but, for us amateurs, the field is very wide and diverse indeed. We tend to be jacks-of-all-trades and masters-of-none - which is why cookery schools and courses run by experienced chefs are hugely popular. You’re likely to come away with a kitchen drawer full of new tips, shortcuts, and skills. 🍳 A Day with Jude Kereama: Foraging and Cooking Imagine my excitement then, when well-known Cornish chef and restaurant proprietor Jude Kereama invited me to spend a day foraging for wild coastal ingredients, which we’d then use in his kitchens. How good does life get? I’d spend some time out on a particularly wild (and therefore unpolluted) part of the Cornish coast and also get to see how experts use things like rock-samphire, seaweed, and even hottentot-fig. Porthleven: Cornwall's Culinary Haven Regular readers might recall that we have featured the culinary wonders of Porthleven before. The Cornish harbour village punches way above its weight when it comes to food and drink. I promised I’d return one day after my new chef pals, Jude and his colleague Ross Sloan, invited me back for a cookery masterclass after the busy summer season was over. 🌊 The Culinary Magic of Kota Restaurants In April, I was writing about the reasons why Porthleven had become such a foodie destination and, in doing so, I highlighted an extraordinary multi-course tasting menu prepared by Ross at Porthleven’s Kota Restaurant, where he’s head chef. The article also mentioned the neighbouring Kota Kai restaurant - both establishments are owned by the charming and highly talented Jude, who helped set up Porthleven’s hugely successful annual food festival. He has played a large part in why this small coastal town has become such a food Mecca. 🍽️ Jude Kereama's Culinary Journey New Zealand born Jude honed his kitchen skills with one of NZ’s top chefs before coming to the UK, where he met his late wife, Jane. Searching for a restaurant, they settled in Porthleven and opened Kota in 2006, before launching Kota Kai in 2011. Kota (meaning ‘shellfish’ in Maori - Jude is half Maori, half Chinese-Malay) and Kota Kai have since become stalwarts of the Cornish food scene. Jude was also a favourite on the Great British Menu 2021 and was named ‘Chef of the Year’ in the 2019 Trencherman’s Guide Awards. "The Rockpool": A Coastal Inspiration No wonder I was looking forward to spending time with Jude in a kitchen - and my excitement hit enthusiastic schoolboy levels when Jude announced that his plan was to… “Put the beach on a plate.” “The inspiration for my dish 'The Rockpool' came while I was on Great British Menu,” he explained. “It’s a tribute to time I’ve spent with my son. We would often go rock pooling together, sampling seafood right there by the shore. This kind of family experience inspired me to create a dish that captures the essence of a rock-pool on a plate, celebrating the diversity and richness of the sea.” 🦀 Cooking Techniques with the Jasper Grill Jude also wanted to show me how chefs at Kota Kai, perched above Porthleven’s inner harbour, take food to another level by using the kitchen’s charcoal-fuelled Jasper Grill. “It imparts an incredible smoky flavour that really enhances every ingredient. For instance, as part of the base for this dish, I charred some carrots in the Jasper until they were blackened, then peeled them to reveal a sweet, concentrated flavour inside.” Sustainability and Respect for Ingredients Jude’s approach is all about maximising the potential of each ingredient. “I also utilised components that might otherwise be discarded, like red mullet bones and a monkfish tail. Roasting these brings out their gelatine and flavour, adding complexity to the broth. I love this kind of cooking because it respects every part of the ingredient. The bones, the scraps - they’re rich in flavour, and when treated properly, they can transform a simple broth into something deeply satisfying and complex.” 🌱 Foraging on the Cornish Coast With Ross Sloan, we set off to clamber down to remote rocky beaches along the coast, not far from Porthleven. None were easily accessible, and we had to watch our step, so I was glad to be in the company of two local chefs who come out along this stretch on an almost daily basis. Harvesting Seaweed and Hottentot-Fig “We’ve got some sea lettuce, which is one of my favourites - and some purple dulce,” said Ross after a few minutes. “Seaweed is as seasonal as everything else. In autumn, it starts to come off the rocks and float away - just like you see leaves falling from trees - so we are doing well with this little haul.” 🌿 A Unique Culinary Experience A few carefully placed fingers of pickled hottentot-fig - alongside some sea-purslane and strands of edible seaweed - certainly helped to give Jude’s Rockpool on a Plate the genuine look, feel, and taste of the local seashore. I loved the dish. Indeed, it is such an authentic representation of the Atlantic coastline I think it should be declared Cornwall’s “national dish”. Jude Kereama’s Rockpool on a Plate Recipe This recipe is for the bisque sauce served on the Rockpool dish. You could make the seafood element with any fish or shellfish you have to hand - adding some sea-vegetables or seaweeds as a garnish. Rock or marsh samphire, sea purslane, or indeed pickled hottentot-fig all go very well, not only adding to the appearance but giving a sharp, acidic, almost sweet kick, to the salty seafood. 🍲 Ingredients for the Bisque Cold pressed rapeseed oil for frying 600 gms red mullet bones, heads, eyes removed and gills cleaned 2 banana shallots diced ½ fennel bulb diced 1 carrot peeled and diced 1 stick celery diced 2 cloves garlic crushed ½ thyme ginger grated 2 sticks lemongrass chopped 3 leaves Kaffir Lime leaf 1 shot of Pernod 100 gms chopped tomatoes 1 tablespoon of red miso paste Pinch of cayenne pepper 2 pinches saffron strands 1 ½ litre fish stock Salt and pepper to taste Method Fry off the fish bones in the oil in a pan until golden. Add all the vegetables, garlic, ginger, lemongrass, kaffir lime leaf, and cook until softened. Deglaze with the Pernod and flame. Add all the other ingredients and cook for ½ hour. Blitz in a high-speed blender and pass through a fine sieve. Bring back to the heat and reduce until you have a nice consistency and season with salt and pepper. Frequently Asked Questions About Coastal Foraging in Cornwall Is coastal foraging legal in Cornwall? Yes, coastal foraging is generally legal in Cornwall, provided you collect responsibly and avoid protected areas or species. Always check local regulations and never remove more than you need, leaving plenty for wildlife and other foragers. What can you forage on the Cornish coast? Depending on the season, you may find edible seaweeds, samphire, rock samphire, mussels, winkles, limpets and a variety of wild coastal herbs. Identification is essential, as some species should not be eaten. Is seaweed safe to eat? Many species of seaweed are highly nutritious and have been eaten for centuries. However, only harvest seaweed that you can positively identify, and avoid collecting from polluted waters or busy harbours. Do I need experience to go coastal foraging? Beginners are always best advised to join a guided foraging walk. Learning from an experienced forager helps you identify edible plants safely while understanding local wildlife and conservation. What equipment should I take? A small knife, a basket or cloth bag, sturdy footwear and a field guide are useful. It's also wise to carry gloves, check tide times before setting out and avoid slippery rocks. When is the best time of year for coastal foraging in Cornwall? Every season offers something different. Spring brings fresh coastal greens, summer is ideal for samphire and many seaweeds, while autumn can provide shellfish and fungi in nearby woodlands. Can I eat shellfish that I collect? Shellfish can carry harmful bacteria or toxins, particularly after heavy rain or during algal blooms. Only collect from approved waters and make sure you know how to prepare and cook them safely. How can I forage responsibly? Only take what you need, never uproot entire plants, avoid disturbing wildlife and leave plenty behind for nature to thrive. Responsible foraging helps protect Cornwall's remarkable coastal habitats for future generations.

There are summer walks, and then there are heatwave walks. Walkers on the South West Coast Path When temperatures soar, the sensible rambler looks for sea breezes rather than sheltered valleys, airy headlands instead of baking lanes, deep woodland instead of exposed farmland, or the high emptiness of the moors where the wind never quite seems to stop blowing. Lundy can offer a cool walks location thanks to its ocean breezes The West Country is wonderfully blessed in this respect. From the wild cliffs of North Devon to the forests of the Tamar Valley, from the granite heights of Dartmoor to the islands of Scilly, there are countless places where walking remains a pleasure long after the beaches have become crowded and the pavements begin to shimmer. Here are ten of my favourites. Some I've walked dozens of times over the years; others still surprise me every time I return. All have one thing in common—they come into their own when the thermometer starts climbing. West Country woodlands are wonderful for cooler walks Walks included in this guide Godolphin Estate, Cornwall – Ancient hills, mining history and breezy heathland. Lerryn to St Winnow, Cornwall – Peaceful woodland and riverside walking beside the River Fowey. Pentire Point, North Cornwall – One of Britain's finest headland walks above the Atlantic. St Agnes, Isles of Scilly – An island stroll where cooling sea breezes are never far away. Morte Point and Bull Point, North Devon – Dramatic cliffs, sea air and unforgettable coastal scenery. Lustleigh Cleave, Dartmoor – Deep wooded valleys and spectacular granite viewpoints. Larkbarrow, Exmoor – Open moorland where even on the hottest days the breeze is rarely absent. Tamar Valley Trails – Shady woodland paths through one of Britain's great mining landscapes. Lundy Island – A complete island adventure surrounded by ocean on every side. Holford to Crowcombe, Quantock Hills – Ancient combes, literary history and one of my favourite pub lunches. 10 Best West Country Walks for a Heatwave: Cool Coastal, Woodland and Moorland Escapes Godolphin Estate, Cornwall Distance: 3½ miles Difficulty: Easy to Moderate Best for: Open breezy hilltops and mining history Godolphin Hill - one of Cornwall's southern uplands One of the great pleasures of wandering the West Country is stumbling across places that somehow remain under the tourist radar. Godolphin is one of those rare treasures. Hidden between Helston and Hayle, this National Trust estate spreads across 555 acres of heath, woodland and ancient mining country, all gathered around the magnificent hump of Godolphin Hill. The landscape is layered with history, from Bronze Age settlements to the engine houses that once echoed with the sounds of Cornwall's great mining age. I usually begin at Mount Whistle, where an old mine chimney now overlooks a peaceful National Trust car park. From there it is an easy climb to the summit of Godolphin Hill, where sea breezes usually take the edge off even the warmest summer afternoon. The walk then drops gently towards atmospheric Godolphin House before circling back beneath the western slopes of the hill. It isn't a demanding walk, but it is endlessly rewarding, with wide-ranging views, flowering heathland and reminders at every turn that Cornwall's landscape has been shaped as much by industry as by nature. This is exactly the sort of place I seek out during a heatwave. While beaches fill with sunseekers, Godolphin remains surprisingly peaceful, the breeze is almost constant, and there is always another corner waiting to be discovered. A cool stream at Godolphin in Cornwall Lerryn to St Winnow, Cornwall Distance: 5 miles Difficulty: Moderate Best for: Woodland shade and riverside tranquillity Low tide at Lerryn, in Southern Cornwall This has long been one of my favourite walks anywhere in Cornwall, especially when the weather turns hot. It begins innocently enough by hopping across the famous stepping stones at Lerryn before climbing through quiet fields towards Ethy House. Soon afterwards the path slips beneath the trees into woodland that many believe inspired Kenneth Grahame's Wild Wood in The Wind in the Willows. Whether or not the story is entirely true hardly matters; once inside these deep, cool woods it feels entirely believable. Beyond the forest lies the sleepy little parish of St Winnow, one of those timeless Cornish places where herons glide across the river and little seems to change from one decade to the next. The return journey is pure delight. The path hugs the wooded banks of the River Fowey before following peaceful Lerryn Creek back to the village. It is cool, green and wonderfully quiet, with the river never far away and birdsong replacing the traffic noise of modern life. If someone asked me to recommend one walk that perfectly captures Cornwall's wooded river valleys, this would be very close to the top of the list. The famous stepping stones at Lerryn Pentire Point, North Cornwall Distance: 4 miles Difficulty: Moderate Best for: Sea breezes, cliff scenery and Atlantic views The path out to Pentire, North Cornwall Some walks seem to have been designed by nature itself, and Pentire Point is one of them. Jutting boldly into the Atlantic at the mouth of the River Camel, this magnificent National Trust headland escaped development back in the 1930s thanks to a determined campaign that prevented it being covered in holiday bungalows. Every time I walk here I'm grateful those protestors won. The route begins at Pentireglaze, just beyond Polzeath, before dropping through a peaceful valley towards the little beach below Pentire Farm. Almost immediately the cliffs begin to rise and the Atlantic starts to dominate the view. On a hot day the breeze rolling in from the ocean can make the difference between an exhausting hike and an exhilarating one. The broad grassy summit of Pentire Point positively invites you to stop and simply gaze out to sea, but I always recommend pressing on to The Rumps, the spectacular twin headland that guards the entrance to the Camel Estuary. The rocks here look as though they have been twisted and folded by some giant hand while, nearby, The Mouls rise sharply from the waves like the remains of some forgotten kingdom. Returning along the coast path completes one of Cornwall's classic cliff walks, with the sea rarely out of sight and the cooling Atlantic never far away. Looking down along the Pentire headland coastline St Agnes, Isles of Scilly Distance: Around 3 miles (plus optional circuit of Gugh) Difficulty: Easy Best for: Island tranquillity and constant sea air Looking across to St Agnes from St Marys in the Scillies If ever there was a place made for walking in warm weather, it is the Isles of Scilly. The islands seem to create their own climate. Even when mainland Cornwall is sweltering, the sea breezes here keep conditions wonderfully comfortable, and nowhere demonstrates that better than tiny St Agnes. Leaving the quay at Porth Conger, the path soon reaches the sandbar linking St Agnes with neighbouring Gugh. If the tide allows, it's worth crossing over for a short detour before continuing around the coast. The western shoreline is full of quiet delights. Beady Pool still occasionally yields colourful beads from a seventeenth-century shipwreck, while the weather-sculpted granite around Castella Down seems to have been carved by giants rather than wind and salt. I never pass St Warna's Well without thinking of the old story that the patron saint of shipwrecks landed here in a humble wicker coracle. Eventually the path reaches the famous Troy Town Maze before looping back inland past the lighthouse, Britain's smallest school, cosy cafés and tiny flower-filled lanes. Walking on St Agnes is never about covering great distances. It is about slowing down, breathing deeply and allowing the rhythm of island life to work its quiet magic. Lighthouse in the centre of St Agnes in the Scillies Morte Point and Bull Point, North Devon Distance: 3 miles Difficulty: Moderate Best for: Spectacular coastal scenery and invigorating sea air Bull Point from Morte Point in North Devon There is something about walking beside the Atlantic that no inland ramble can quite match. The sea sharpens every sense. You smell the salt long before you reach the cliffs and hear the surf long before you see it. Morte Point delivers that experience in abundance. From the village of Mortehoe the path quickly reaches the narrow spine of the headland where ancient rocks rise like a procession of weather-beaten razorbacks stretching into the ocean. It is easy to understand why generations of sailors called the Morte Stone the Death Stone. These waters have claimed many ships. After exploring the tip of the headland, the coast path swings north past secluded coves and dramatic cliffs before reaching Bull Point, where North Devon's coastline finally turns south towards Hartland. The lighthouse standing guard over this great corner of England has become one of my favourite landmarks anywhere on the coast. Even on the hottest summer afternoons there is nearly always a brisk wind blowing here. The Atlantic never allows the air to become still for long, making this one of my favourite places to escape the heat while enjoying some of the finest coastal scenery in Britain. Looking north fromMorte Point Lustleigh Cleave, Dartmoor Martin Hesp peers over an old stone bridge at Lustleigh Cleave Distance: 5 miles Difficulty: Moderate Best for: Woodland shade, granite tors and Dartmoor views When the thermometer begins nudging thirty degrees, most people think of the coast. I often think of Lustleigh Cleave. This great wooded chasm carved into the eastern flanks of Dartmoor is one of Devon's hidden masterpieces. William Crossing described it as "one of the loveliest nooks in the whole of Devon" and, having wandered here in every season, I'm not inclined to argue. The climb begins gently from the picture-postcard village of Lustleigh before winding steeply through ancient woodland to the granite outcrops of Sharpitor. Suddenly the trees fall away and the enormous gulf of the Cleave opens beneath your feet. From the famous Nut Crackers rocks you can gaze across to Hound Tor Wood and the distant slopes rising towards Manaton, while further along Harton Chest provides one of the finest picnic spots I know anywhere on Dartmoor. Eventually the route swings beneath Hunter's Tor before returning through cool woodland paths where the shade offers welcome relief on even the hottest afternoons. There are grander tors on Dartmoor and there are higher summits, but few walks combine woodland, rivers, granite and breathtaking viewpoints quite so perfectly. On a sweltering summer's day it feels like nature's own air-conditioning. Larkbarrow, Exmoor Distance: 6 miles Difficulty: Moderate Best for: High moorland and wide open spaces The site of the old farm at Larbarrow on Exmoor There are moments when only a big landscape will do. West of Dunkery lies one of the loneliest corners of Exmoor, a place where the horizon stretches away in every direction and the wind seems determined never to stop blowing. On hot summer days that breeze is worth its weight in gold. Beginning at lonely Larkbarrow Corner, the walk heads out across the high moor towards Elsworthy before following one of Exmoor's enduring mysteries – the remains of a supposed canal that was never really a canal at all. Whether it was intended to feed mines, supply a railway or serve some forgotten Victorian scheme is still debated. What remains today is simply another curious thread woven into Exmoor's remarkable history. Beyond the old earthworks the landscape becomes wonderfully empty. There are no villages, no cafés and often no other walkers. Just rolling moorland, distant skylarks and the occasional glimpse of wild red deer moving across the heather. The return route drops through the lonely ruins of Larkbarrow Farm before climbing back to the road. If your idea of escaping a heatwave is leaving civilisation behind for a few glorious hours, this is one of the finest walks in the South West. The path to Larkbarrow on the top of Exmoor Tamar Valley Trails, Devon Distance: 4½ miles Difficulty: Easy to Moderate Best for: Deep woodland shade and industrial history The Tamar runs through the hills of the Devon Cornwall border Not every heatwave walk has to be about sea cliffs or open moorland. Sometimes the coolest place to be is beneath a leafy canopy beside a river. The Tamar Valley Trails offer exactly that. Created as part of an ambitious heritage project, these paths explore the remains of Devon Great Consols, once the largest copper mine in the world before becoming the world's biggest producer of arsenic. It is difficult to imagine today that such peaceful woodland was once alive with engines, tramways and thousands of miners. The route begins beside the visitor centre before following old railway beds, canals and woodland tracks through a landscape where nature has quietly reclaimed its industrial past. Along the way you pass the evocative remains of Wheal Emma, Wheal Josiah and other great mines whose names still echo through Cornish and Devon mining history. Towering trees provide almost continuous shade, while the surrounding woodland hums with birdsong rather than machinery. It is one of those places where history and nature seem perfectly balanced. This is a leisurely walk rather than a strenuous hike, making it ideal for families or anyone wanting to enjoy the outdoors without battling the full force of the summer sun. The woodlands around the Great Devon Consoles make for cool walking in hot weather Lundy Island, Devon Distance: 8–9 miles (full circuit) Difficulty: Moderate Best for: Wildlife, sea views and the ultimate island adventure Old Light, on the top of Lundy Island There is something wonderfully liberating about walking on an island. Once the ferry has steamed away, the mainland seems to belong to another world. Lundy is only three miles long and half a mile wide, yet it feels infinitely larger. Rising from the meeting place of the Bristol Channel and the Atlantic, this great granite outcrop offers some of the most exhilarating walking anywhere in the British Isles. The climb from Landing Beach is steep, but once you reach the tiny village, the island quickly works its magic. Heading west towards South West Point, the route follows magnificent cliffs above Goat Island before reaching the Old Light. If you have a head for heights, climb the lighthouse tower for a breathtaking panorama across the surrounding seas. Further north the island becomes quieter still. Ackland's Moor, the old Quarter Wall, Earthquake and Needle Rock lead you through landscapes alive with seabirds, where puffins, guillemots and razorbills make their homes on towering cliffs. At the wild North End the sense of isolation reaches its peak before the route turns south again along the eastern coast, passing old quarries, forgotten gun batteries and the ever-present sound of waves breaking below. Lundy is far more than a pleasant walk. It is a complete escape. Even during the hottest spell of summer the ocean is never more than a few hundred yards away, carrying cool breezes and reminding you that this remarkable island belongs as much to the sea as it does to the land. Hiker at the Earthquake area of Lundy Island Holford to Crowcombe, Quantock Hills, Somerset Distance: 4 miles (one way, with return options) Difficulty: Moderate Best for: Woodland combes, sweeping views and a rewarding pub lunch The Quantocks may not possess the dramatic grandeur of Dartmoor or Exmoor, but they have a quiet magic all of their own. Walker in Holford Glen This walk begins in the lovely village of Holford, where ancient combes climb gently into some of the most beautiful woodland in Somerset. It was a landscape loved by both Samuel Taylor Coleridge and William Wordsworth, and it is easy to understand why. The valleys possess a timeless, almost enchanted quality. The steady ascent through Hodder's Combe eventually reaches the broad crest of the Quantock ridge. Suddenly the trees disappear and enormous views open out across the Bristol Channel towards Wales, while behind you the rolling hills of Somerset stretch away into the distance. Turning towards Crowcombe, the route follows high tracks before descending through the edge of Crowcombe Park into one of the prettiest villages on the hills. There is, I confess, another reason this has always been one of my favourite walks. It finishes within easy strolling distance of the Carew Arms, one of those proper English country pubs where a pint of good bitter and a satisfying lunch somehow taste even better after a morning spent crossing the hills. It seems an entirely fitting way to end a summer walk. The wooded valleys above Holford on the Quantock Hills Final Thoughts One of the greatest pleasures of living in — or visiting — the West Country is that there is always another path waiting to be explored. When the beaches are crowded and the roads are busy, these walks offer something different: cool woodland glades, windswept headlands, lonely moors and islands where the sea breeze is never far away. I've walked every one of these routes, many of them several times over the years, and each has earned its place here for a different reason. Some are exhilarating, others peaceful; some reveal fascinating fragments of history while others simply allow you to escape into nature for a few precious hours. If this collection inspires you to lace up your boots and head out during the next spell of fine weather, then it will have done its job. The South West has no shortage of magnificent walks — these just happen to be ten that I return to time and time again. Happy walking. More West Country Walking Inspiration Best Coastal Walks in Cornwall Favourite Dartmoor Walks Walking the Isles of Scilly Exmoor in Winter Best Woodland Walks in Devon

It has most definitely been one of those “Phew, what a scorcher!” weeks. Not sure what the weather will be like on Saturday when these words are published but, as I write, it’s so hot everyone I know is actively looking for shade, or a cooling breeze at least. And where better to find the latter than a beach? The big hot-water bottle, otherwise known as the Atlantic Ocean, which keeps us warm in winter, also does a good job of keeping us cooler in summer. Earlier I drove along Minehead beach and the car’s external temperature was 27 C - a mile or two inland it had gone up to 30 degrees - which proved to me that the amazing coolant effect really does exist. And, of course, if it really does get too hot you can always jump in the sea - in most places anyway - but admittedly not at Minehead if the tide is out and halfway to the horizon. Anyway, beaches are the places to be in a heatwave - and a great many people agree with that notion if my drive earlier today was anything to go by. There were several thousand people on Minehead beach which, because of the huge tidal drop, is not the most popular strand in the West Country. The empty white sands of Pedn Vounder, West Cornwall About 1.5 million years ago a man or woman walked out of a cave in Africa and spent the day on the beach. They were called Homo Erectus - Upright Man – and during those very early lifetimes they spent an awful lot of time by the seaside. In fact, the first real humans spent the best part of a million years on the beaches of Africa before their successors, known as Homo Sapiens, began to travel over the land bridges into Europe some 500,000 years ago. Beaches were, and are, good places to be. For a start, they’re fairly safe when compared with impenetrable jungles – and they’re rich in food. Shellfish are easy to harvest and are extremely nutritious, as is seaweed. And, if you’re clever enough, you can even catch fish in quantities that will sustain you for days. And, as I say, we still love to be beside the seaside today, though most of us think more in terms of lounging about in deckchairs eating ice-creams and sandwiches than grabbing wild food. Some folk though, are still bound up in the ancient world of harvesting the bounties of sea and shore - then there are the artists, boat builders, coastguards and a whole host of others who rely upon the littoral to making a living. Cape Cornwall on a blustery day “I must go down to the sea again, to the lonely sea and the sky,” wrote John Macefield. And I know exactly what he means. There is something magically alluring about the shore, and this peninsula has more shores – and better shores – than most. During my extensive travels for this newspaper, I have skived off down some sea-lane or other a thousand times - sometimes just to catch the briefest glimpse of the waves. It is like being addicted to a saline solution. Even the lanes leading to beaches have a certain quality about them. They are places of sea holly, sea spurge and squill - rock samphire, fennel and sandwort. The names, the sounds, the scents, the heady euphoria of breathing ozone… Such are the delights of the sea. Who can blame anyone for wanting to work on, or near, the ocean? One of the factors of human interaction with the sea that intrigues me most is how localised the various traditions are. Every stretch of coast seems to have its own style of boat, there are different nets, rigs and even oars. But today it is too hot to go on writing about our love affair with the seaside. I am simply going to point you towards a random selection of my favourite beaches in the hopes you might one day enjoy at least one of the following… Pedn Vounder beach, West Cornwall, Pedn Vounder My No1 favourite. Just thinking of its perfect rocks, sea and sand makes me want to jump in the car and drive the 160 miles it would take to reach this westerly spot. Pity it’s so distant in furthest West Penwith. And, be warned, the climb down requires you to hang on to a rope. Colourful beach huts at Woolacombe Woolacombe The antithesis to Pedn Vounder. Easy-to-reach, huge, extremely popular… But the crowds don’t go there for nothing - fabulous sand and surf, this is England’s answer to California. And you can always escape the hordes by walking along the dunes to Baggy Point. Beer in East Devon is always busy in summer Beer Not the booze but the wonderful old-fashioned cobble beach under the East Devon village of that name… Think: excellent tea-shops located in wooden beach huts, clinker-built motorboats you can hire, fishermen hauling their crab boats up on winches and local families who’ve been hanging out here for summertime decades. Not a soul of the beaches of St Martins St Martins Bay, Isles of Scilly Simply the best, finest, white sand to be found anywhere in Europe. This is where the West Country turns into the Caribbean - the blue-green waters are so clear you can see that fine white sand 40 feet down when you are snorkelling. Remote. Beautiful. Unforgettable. Not a soul of the wide stretch of the beach at Doniford, West Somerset Doniford The opposite of the above. You can’t see a single inch through the waters on this Bristol Channel beach. It is not even very beautiful - at least, not in a classic way. But it is fascinating. Daniel Defoe thought so when he came here in 1724. He was amazed at the large fossils that he found dotted among the great natural stone pavements. Maceley Cove, near East Prawle and the wonderful Pig's Nose Inn Maceley Cove If you adore distant, empty coves where a small horseshoe of sand is bordered by rocks and pools and a restless, crystal-clear sea, then Maceley Cove is for you. So wonderfully wild, picturesque and oddly foreign are the environs around the charming little village of East Prawle - that the area long ago ascended straight to the top of my list of favourite places. The sands and rocks at Porthcothan, North Cornish coast Porthcothan One of the finest beaches on the North Cornish coast. Great sand and surf, with plenty of alluring rock-pools when the tide goes down. You might even recognise the place where Ross Poldark in the recent TV series forever galloped along the top of the cliffs. Lantic Bay, near Polruan, Cornwall Lantic Bay Another small horseshoe of sand bordered by rocks and pools and crystal-clear sea classic… And like Maceley and so many other coves, a bit difficult to reach on foot from nearby Polruan. Which is why this one is so popular with boating beach-goers all summer long. Portheras Cove, West Cornwall Portheras Cove Another West Penwith special. Portheras, tucked away under the Pendeen Watch Lighthouse, is a jewel among coves. A golden sand beach of near perfect proportions. A remote bit of rocky littoral that hangs in the mind like a beautiful dream. A fabulous, oceanic, ozone-filled dream… National Trust rangers climber the hill above Ayrmer Cove Ayrmer Cove An untouched gem on the South Devon coast, Ayrmer Cove is a secluded, sandy haven flanked by dramatic, dark shale cliffs. Reached via a picturesque, half-mile walk through a deep, wooded valley from the National Trust car park at Ringmore, this quiet beach bypasses the usual resort crowds. At low tide, it reveals a fascinating network of rock pools and striking geological formations, including the iconic Ayrmer Rock rising from the surf. It is an idyllic, breezy spot for walkers tackling the rugged South West Coast Path, offering panoramic views out toward Burgh Island and the open English Channel.

Strange how trends come around. The classic afternoon tea has had its ups and downs over the years - there were times when it seemed to have passed almost completely out of fashion, holding on in just a few upmarket traditional haunts like The Ritz. When I was a boy, a posh afternoon tea was the ultimate dream for people like my mother and her Westcountry friends but, decades later working as a food writer, I somehow managed to ignore the existence of these very British and grand repasts for years on end. Now they are back. My daughter and her friends, for example, will occasionally devote an entire day off in their busy lives to enjoy this very British afternoon ritual, Instagramming everything as they make their way through the dainty sandwiches, cakes and pastries. She turned green with envy the other day when I told her that I may have recently discovered the best grand afternoon tea in all of England. Which is a big claim too make… Could the classic afternoon tea served at the Harbour Loft on St Michael’s Mount really be the best in the land? Why St Michael's Mount is One of Cornwall's Most Magical Places For a start, I suppose you could argue that an island off the coast isn’t really “in the land”. But that’s being pedantic and, anyway, there are good reason I make the claim. For a start, this well-known restaurant has now devoted itself to the unique and complex art-form of the afternoon tea. Which surprised me because, half a dozen years ago, I visited the establishment to meet the dynamic young head-chef, one-time heavy-metal rock-band lead singer Gregory Milne, who was making a tremendous name for himself preparing all-manner of wondrous seafood dishes mixed with foraged offerings from the island’s small woodland and its beaches. Now Greg has devoted himself to pursuing afternoon tea perfection. And the amazing thing is that the local seafood and the foraging is still in evidence. There are tiny savoury tartlets featuring things like mini-home-cured mackerel fillets and tips of local asparagus topped by wild garlic stalks and flowers. There are perfect cut sandwiches containing all manner fabulous ingredients. There are immaculate sweet dainties featuring things like pine needle essence gathered from the island’s trees. And of course, there’s a whopping great big cream tea besides, just to make sure no one goes hungry. All this at a cost of £32.50 per person. Which is actually very good value - there was enough of it to have my wife and I asking for doggy bags. While I admit I’m not exactly an aficionado when it comes to the classic afternoon tea, I can tell you that The Ritz version comes in at £75 a head, while Harrods charges £73. And it’s what you get on the plate which counts most. And the moment I tasted the beautiful little amuse-bouche savoury - a cured Cornish mackerel, asparagus and prune ketchup crostini - I knew we were in for something special. Accompanying this was an English pea, sea-vegetable and horseradish tartlet. I’d say they were the best small bites I have eaten anywhere this year. Crustless sandwiches featured a Davidstow cheddar and wild garlic pesto, a house-baked gammon and rhubarb conserve, a third filled with grilled leek and wild leek salsa, and (my favourite) the fennel pollen egg mayonnaise. Moving onto the sweeter morsels, there was a pine and rose mousse cake, alongside a walnut, tarragon and dark chocolate financier, as well as a sour lemon and raspberry ripple chiffon. Then, of course, there was the cream tea - house-baked scones with local Trewithen Dairy clotted cream Cornish strawberry jam. Needless to say, this is all accompanied by a pot of excellent local Tregothnan tea, although you could pay extra and go for Cornish sparkling wine. All very impressive, especially when you learn that the man running the kitchen has never been to a catering college. Instead, Greg spent his early adulthood working as both a lead-singer in a heavy metal band and a National Trust warden. When we first met six years ago, Greg had not long been the island’s head-chef. He took me foraging, using private paths (normally only open to gardeners and estate workers) where we picked various sea vegetables as well as wild edible flowers and woodland herbs. We harvested a bag of young nettle leaves with which he made the most amazing, vibrant and zingy mayonnaise. As I say, he still goes out foraging now, but everything is aimed at that one distinct repast: the classic afternoon tea. So why the change? Greg explained that after Covid, the island management team thought about streamlining the food-offering and brought in a consultant. It was he who came up with the idea specialising in an afternoon tea. At first, Greg was not convinced. “But eventually I came round to the idea and I was like… right, I’m not gonna lean into it as much as I can. With my full personality - foraging - everything! So I put together this menu and I thought it was pretty brave. It featured loads of foraged stuff from the island and loads of crazy concepts,” Greg told me. “Then we invited James and Mary, Lord and Lady St Levan (of the St Aubyn family which retains a 999 year lease on the place), who live in the castle, at to come down and try it. They tasted it and were like… ‘Yeah, let's go!’… I was a little surprised because I was being edgy - almost pushy - wanting to get my flavours in there. But they went for it! “Now it’s become a kind of theme,” says Greg. “People come to Saint Michael’s Mount for tea and they are experiencing the flavours of the island. In many ways it contains all the flavours I was featuring before. And it is proving to be a huge success.” I bet it is. The place was packed on the chilly but sunny mid-week spring day we were there. I hope and trust the management will never be tempted to water down this remarkable offering by making it somehow more conventional. Greg tells me the flavours will change with the seasons, and I look forward to another visit some other time. Because I’d like to answer my own question: is this the best afternoon tea in all the land? Whether it is or not, the St Michael’s Mount afternoon tea is set to become one of this region’s must-do, bucket-list, rituals. Frequently Asked Questions Can you have afternoon tea on St Michael's Mount? Yes. The Harbour Loft restaurant serves afternoon tea on selected days, with advance booking recommended. Depending on your booking, access to parts of the island may also be included. Is St Michael's Mount worth visiting? Absolutely. With its medieval castle, subtropical gardens, harbour, spectacular coastal scenery and excellent dining, it is one of Cornwall's most iconic attractions. How do you reach St Michael's Mount? Visitors can walk across the famous causeway at low tide or take the ferry boat when the tide is in. What makes Cornish afternoon tea different? Traditional Cornish afternoon tea features freshly baked scones topped with strawberry jam first and then clotted cream, alongside cakes, sandwiches and locally sourced ingredients.