Selworthy Sands Imagine a fabulous sandy beach that’s over a quarter of a mile long and surrounded by amazingly dramatic scenery. Now imagine that beach with no one down there by the waves enjoying its winds acres. Why is it so empty? Why is it so secret? Because reaching it, then getting back to civilisation safely again, is very perilous indeed. So dangerous, in fact, that no one really wants you to go there. Certainly not the local lifeboat crew or coastguard. Because they have been called to that beach far too many times to help stranded but clueless adventurers. Warnings and Dangers: Why the Beach Remains a Secret I add the word clueless, because you can reach this beach in safety if you really do know what you are doing. By which I mean, you are acutely aware of the tidal situation on an hour-by-hour, minute-by-minute basis, and you know the secret cave that will introduce you to the beach without your having to lower yourself down a 60 foot rope. And even if you do know the whereabouts of this cave, you will need very good footwear and have excellent levels of agility to negotiate the giant slippery which you must cross to reach the sands. This Secret Place - written for the regional daily newspapers such as the Western Morning News and Western Daily Press - is one off the best beaches to be found along a 60-mile stretch of the West Country’s north coast between Weston-Super-Mare and Combe Martin. It really does boast many acres of fine golden sands –but the reason hardly anyone ever goes there is because it is extremely difficult to get to and if you do somehow manage to get yourself down to the shore, you will have a very good chance of being cut-off by the second biggest tide in the world. To read about our Exmoor walks click here The Route: Descending to Exmoor’s Hidden Shoreline The last time I went by the normal route and approached the place from the massive hill that hides it by descending the scary scree to the edge of a near vertical 60-foot cliff, I saw the old rope (that has been there for years) now terminated about 20 feet above the beach. Not a nice place to be left dangling. Author Martin Hesp at Selworthy Sands A Step Back in Time: My Personal Experience on the Secluded Beach When I was a youth there was a proper path down and not some flimsy bit of rope. A very scary path, it was too. But one which I used as a teenager nearly 50 years ago when I camped down on the beach with a girlfriend. I dread to think of the fuss that would ensure if some teenagers did that today. Walkers would be ringing rescue services on their mobile phones and there would be helicopters buzzing about the place and goodness knows what. But back then there were very few walkers, and no mobile phones. And because these secret sands are well off the beaten track (by which I mean that it is even off limits to the all-seeing all-marching South West Coast Path) it is one of the most hidden places in the entire West Country. Going through the Gull's Hole to Selworthy Sands Journey to the Top: The Scenic Route to Hurlestone Point All of which is why I am not going to describe the exact way to reach the beach – but I can divulge how you can safely reach a vantage point which will give you fabulous views of the wondrous sands without your having to risk life and limb attempting to actually be on it… The best way is to aim for the little car-park in the almost unbelievably pretty, chocolate-box village of Bossington, a mile-and-a-half north-east of Porlock. Cross the footbridge that looks as if it's been inspired by the one at Claude Monet's lily-pond, and turn left along the riverside. The path ascends gently towards Hurlestone Point - the dramatic headland which not only commands the eastern tip of Porlock Bay, but also does a massive job of effectively hiding our secret place. Walking across the boulder beach to Selworthy Sands Unveiling the Unknown: The Secret Sea-Tunnel Beneath Hurlestone Point There's a ruined coastguard look-out that sits squat on a shelf some 200 feet above the end of the jagged point and I recommend strolling out to its airy realm. From it you can peer around the corner and see the wide expanse of the sands stretching east under the great hill. What you will not see from this truly panoramic vantage point is the secret sea-tunnel which passes through the very end of the headland 150-feet beneath your feet. It is called the Gull’s Hole and only a handful of people in the entire world know of its existence. Which is why I’m not going to give directions here. However, it has been mentioned in an excellent book called The Hidden Edge of Exmoor by Kester and Elizabeth Webb which is basically an encyclopaedia for those wishing to explore this most dangerous of all the region’s coastlines. The Gull's Hole entrance to Selworthy Sands The pair describe Hurlestone Point and its secret sea-cave thus: “The ridge tapers as it descends, forming a sharp headland poking out into the sea. It looks, from the air, like a huge fossilized dragon. The top jaw of this monster is formed by a graceful anticline and, at the centre of the arch, some seven beds of rock have been punched right through by the sea, leaving a 12-foot, and very draughty, thru-cave. “This Gull Hole, with arched ceiling and convex floor, provides an easy half-tide passage from Eastern Cliffs through to Western Cliffs and Bossington Beach.” For the likes of the late Kester Webb, who was one of the Exmoor coast’s most experienced guides, the Gull’s Hole did offer an “easy” kind of access to the secret world beyond. For most of the human race it is hazardous. I can imagine a health and safety expert would turn pale if they were to see the slippery seaweed covered rocks and cliffs you need to negotiate eve, to reach it. And you must only make the attempt when the tide is right. By which I mean – when it is falling. Only at half-tide or lower can you reach the Gull’s Hole by scrambling across the rocks – and, once you are through, you’d better put a move on if you are intending to boulder-hop the half-mile to the secret sands, and then return via the same route. My Latest Scrambling Adventure to the Secret Sands I recently did this scrambled adventure in the company of my brother John - who knows the place well having lived in nearby Bossington for many years – and although we were back in plenty of time, I could see the incoming tide would have caused us major problems had we dallied out on the sands for another half hour. I’d also add that we are fairly fit blokes for our age – do not even think of trying this route if you are not in tip-top health or if you have trouble with leaping across gaps from giant boulder to giant boulder. Climbing to the Gull's Hole at Hurlestone Point can be extremely tricky Once you are on the sands you find yourself being awed by the massiveness of the place and by the vast boiler-plated cliffs that rise heavenwards to meet even bigger hogs-back hills which loom more than 900 feet above the shore. Of all the places in the region, this is the zone in which humans feel truly dwarfed by their surroundings. I have never seen another soul down here – save for that girlfriend I mention who shared a dreamy weekend with me here all those years ago. That ended in tears, by the way. My tears. And they were wept because of the severe pain I found myself in. A Bittersweet Memory: My Unforgettable Encounter with a Portuguese Man of War The lethal currents around here are powerful enough to gouge large indentations into the sand – and sometimes, when the tide is out, these can be wide and deep enough to swim in. How cheerful was I when hurled myself deep into the sun-warmed waters of one of these natural pools… And how agonised was I to discover the thing was filled with a million almost invisible stinging tentacles of a dead Portuguese Man of War jellyfish. My dreams of acting the part of some handsome young Robinson Crusoe disappeared under a thousand red weals. A Unique Event: Recalling the Historic Landing of Small Airplanes on the Secret Sands A far more memorable image is one described in The Hidden Coast of Exmoor in which Kester and Elizabeth write about the occasion in 2009 when five small aeroplanes actually landed on these wide sands. It had all been carefully arranged and the pilots of four old World War Two Austers and one modern Cub were greeted by a ground-crew who’d been taken down by Kester. The Importance of Preserving the Secret Beach's Solitude and Beauty I cannot imagine this Secret Place will ever see anything like it again – but then, it’s a location that has played host to very few human activities down the years. Long may that continue.

Looking down the River Barle from Simonsbath For centuries, we despised bogs, doing everything in our power to avoid or drain them. But increasingly, people are beginning to appreciate the value of these squelchy wet places – an idea I once witnessed at an event called Past in the Peat, part of the Festival of British Archaeology. This exhibition aimed to show not only the environmental importance of healthy peat bogs but also the rich history such landscapes contain and protect. Peatlands above Simonsbath The Secrets Within the Peat 🌍 Peat is anaerobic, meaning it seals anything within it from oxygen, preventing normal decay. Over time, exciting finds have been discovered in peat bogs, including ancient wooden trackways built across the Somerset Levels by early farmers in the 4th millennium BC. Experts now believe that Exmoor’s peat bogs, which were well-populated in Bronze Age times, may hold treasures of their own. Experts examine Exmoor's peat bogs This exhibition set the scene for a beautiful day’s walk around Simonsbath, a small settlement that might lack modern services but makes up for it with rich hiking opportunities. Go there on a sunlit summer day, and you’ll see this area of peat bogs at its very best. The Route: Walking the River Barle Valley from Simonsbath The River Barle flows down from the high, stark moorlands of The Chains, forming a lush, tree-lined valley as it heads toward its meeting point with the Exe River south of Dulverton. Simonsbath is situated along this river, and the surrounding landscape features a striking mix of forest and open moorland. Simonsbath Fact File 📍 Route: Simonsbath to Cow Castle via ridge paths north of the Barle, returning along the riverside. Recommended Map: Ordnance Survey Explorer OL9. Distance and Difficulty: Four miles, fairly easy terrain. Heading out from Simonsbath, the hike begins with a path through Birchcleave, a beautiful grove of beech trees directly to the east of the village. Instead of following the main river path, take the signposted trail to Pickedstones. This path climbs out of the woods and into open fields to the north of the Barle. From here, you proceed southeast, following the river valley from a ridge and passing the farm at Winstitchen to ascend a shoulder of land dividing the Barle from its tributary, the small and hidden White Water. (To see more Exmoor walks click here) The History: Tracing the Royal Forest and the Knight Estate As the ridge descends, leading to the meeting of these two waterways, the path approaches Cow Castle, one of Exmoor’s most picturesque and intriguing hill-forts. Its strategic position atop a steep knoll gives it an air of impregnability, explaining why early inhabitants chose it as a defensive site. While some ramparts are still visible, it’s the site’s natural steepness that adds to its sense of mystery and beauty. Turning to follow the riverside path back to Simonsbath, you’ll pass more historical sites, including the haunting ruins of Wheal Eliza. Walkers at the Wheal Eliza near Simonsbath The Industrial Past and Tragic History of Wheal Eliza ⚒️ Just before reaching Flexbarrow, you’ll see the stark remains of Wheal Eliza, a 19th-century mine where copper, manganese, and iron were once extracted. In its heyday, this lonely corner was a hive of industry, with miners sinking a 300-foot shaft and installing a large water wheel to power the pumps. For a while, it seemed the area might become an Exmoor Klondike, as 60% metallic ore was found. Encouraged by early successes, local landowner Frederic Knight even began construction on an ambitious trans-moorland railway to transport the minerals to Porlock Weir. But the venture was doomed to failure, and Wheal Eliza became a silent testament to a broken dream. Adding to its tragic allure, Wheal Eliza is also associated with the murder of young Anna Maria Burgess, whose father, William Burgess, killed her nearby and hid her body in one of the shafts. The case was recorded by Simonsbath’s first curate, Rev. William Thornton, who also acted as a detective in this remote area, where the nearest police officer was 35 miles away in Taunton. Without Thornton’s persistence, Burgess may never have been brought to justice. His chilling confession still resonates: “The child was in the way, sir – in my way and in everybody else’s way – and I thought she’d be better out of the way.” A Hike Through History This journey through Simonsbath’s peatlands offers both natural beauty and haunting stories. As you return along the river valley to Simonsbath, take a moment to reflect on the lives and dreams that played out here – some ending in glory, others in tragedy. Today, these ancient landscapes continue to hold secrets, preserved in the peat and waiting for those who venture to explore. Simonsbath & Central Exmoor Walk FAQs Where does the Simonsbath walk start? The most convenient starting point is the main Exmoor National Park car park in Simonsbath village, located just off the B3223. The walking trails are easily accessed directly from the parking area. How difficult is walking around Simonsbath? Central Exmoor offers beautiful but rugged terrain. While riverside paths along the Barle can be gentle, heading out onto the open moorland involves exposed paths, steady climbs, and terrain that can become incredibly boggy after rain. Good navigational skills and sturdy footwear are essential. What historical sights can you see on a Simonsbath walk? Simonsbath is steeped in industrial and agricultural history. Walks in the area often pass the historic Simonsbath House, remnants of the Knight family's 19th-century estate reclamation projects, and the haunting ruins of Wheal Eliza, an old iron mine in the Barle valley. Are there refreshments available in Simonsbath? Yes, the village offers options for walkers, including the traditional Exmoor Forest Inn and local tea rooms, making it an excellent base for a circular walk.

Cottage at the top of Selworthy Green, in Somerset Discover Selworthy: A Sanctuary of Nature and Tranquility 🏞️ Home of a hundred hikes, each more picturesque, dramatic, and ruggedly rural than the next, Selworthy boasts deep, moody woods, swathes of high moorland heather, vast Exmoor panoramas, rolling vistas of Porlock's perfect vale, and wild salty glimpses of the Severn Sea. All of these wonders are on offer within just a mile or two of this extraordinary village. 🌲✨ So why not follow me up along the intricate footpaths to enjoy the breathtaking views from Selworthy Beacon, before returning past the rugged cliffs and through the deep, dark forest of evergreen oaks? Selworthy Green, now looked after by the National Trust (To see more Exmoor Walks click here) The Route: Exploring Selworthy Green and Up into the Woods You can view Selworthy’s white-painted church from miles around, but it’s the car park a couple of hundred metres up the lane that offers the best starting point for this circular route. The church is far older than most of the idyllic village (mostly owned by the National Trust) that it serves. The picturesque thatched cottages, so perfectly arranged around The Green below, were established in 1810 by Sir Thomas Acland as part of a model farming commune. However, Selworthy was not a traditional village in the true sense—there never was a school, a pub, or a proper shop. Into Selworthy Combe 🌳 Just to the left of the gift shop at the top of The Green, a footpath leads north up wooded Selworthy Combe. The track splits after half a mile, and I recommend taking the right-hand fork until you reach Lady Acland’s Hut on your left. You can rest in this charming chalet, surrounded by the delicate beauty of birch trees, and perhaps think of Chekhov or Turgenev—the atmosphere here feels uniquely Russian. Behind the hut, a tiny path winds up through the woods, eventually reaching another hut at the top of the hill. The Aclands were clearly fond of huts! One of the squires used to bring his children and grandchildren to the "Wind and Weather Hut" to enjoy the views and recite his favorite poetry. Inscribed on the hut is a verse by Keble: Needs no show of mountain hoary, winding shore or deepening glen; where the landscape in its glory, teaches truth to wandering men. Not entirely sure what it means, but as a wandering man myself, it struck a chord as I crossed the road to reach Selworthy Beacon. Views from Selworthy Beacon 🔭 What incredible views await you at Selworthy Beacon! From here, you can see Wales, the Bristol Channel, the Quantocks, the Brendons, and the vast expanse of Exmoor, with Dunkery looming to the south. From Selworthy Beacon, take a section of the South West Coast Path down to Hurlestone Point. To the right, a side path leads over a steep spur down past dramatic cliffs to the old Coastguard Lookout—only recommended for those with a good head for heights! Through Bossington and the Evergreen Oak Woods 🌳 Just south of Hurlestone, two paths head toward Bossington—take the higher one, which traverses above this village. Bossington is yet another picturesque, thatched Acland community mostly owned by the National Trust. The steep slope below gives the sensation of floating, almost like being in a helicopter or a hang glider. Soon, you’ll be plunged back into the woods. This section of the walk can feel especially dark due to the canopy of evergreen oaks (Ilex). In fact, this is the largest stand of Ilex in Britain, giving the forest an almost Mediterranean feel. Follow any of the myriad paths heading southeast along the hill, and eventually, you’ll find yourself back on The Green at Selworthy, ready to join the day-trippers for a well-deserved cream tea. Fact File 📌 Route: From Selworthy Green to Selworthy Beacon, down to Hurlestone Point, and back through the evergreen oak woods. Recommended Map: Ordnance Survey OL9 – Exmoor. Distance & Difficulty: 6 miles, steep in places. Selworthy & Exmoor Hills Walk FAQs Where is the best place to start the Selworthy walk? The ideal starting point is the National Trust car park at Selworthy (above the Periwinkle Tea Rooms). From here, well-marked paths lead directly up into the surrounding woods and hills. How long is the circular walk around Selworthy? A standard circular loop through Selworthy woods up to Selworthy Beacon covers roughly 3 to 4.5 miles and typically takes between 1.5 and 2.5 hours, depending on your pace. Is the walk up to Selworthy Beacon steep? Yes, the climb through the woodland trails up toward the beacon involves a steady, fairly steep ascent. However, the paths are well-maintained, and the panoramic views across the Bristol Channel and Exmoor from the top are well worth the effort. Are there facilities available along this walking route? Excellent facilities are available at the start and end of the walk at Selworthy Green, including public toilets and a seasonal tea room. There are no facilities once you head up into the woods and onto the hills.

The Exmoor coast above Porlock No public right of way in the world captures the imagination quite like the South West Coast Path - I’ve met all manner of individuals who, in some way or another, have been entranced by all or some part of the 630-mile trail. Some have had jobs maintaining the path, others have merely used it for pleasure, some have rescued people along it, written about it, painted it, studied its geology and even collected fossils from under it. To read about our Exmoor walks click here And I’ve found myself questioning my own fascination for the most beautiful path in the world. As a walks writer for 20 years, I was forever pacing up and down the coast path – but what was it that first drew me to the long thin strip of loveliness by the sea? I found part of the answer this week while looking through my father’s dusty files. He was a journalist and I recall him telling me stories about a mysterious correspondent who called himself Afghan. It was the rich vein of anecdotes from this enigmatic man that first captured my seaside imagination beyond the boyhood call of bucket and spade. Afghan, who would not have his real name printed in a newspaper, was a font of knowledge when it came to the most lonely section of the coast path – the 12 mile stretch between Porlock Weir and the North Devon Foreland. The vast vertical shoulder where Exmoor meets the sea. North Devon Foreland Here’s what my father wrote about Afghan some 40 years ago. “His notes contain references to the paths which contour through the hanging woods high over the sea on the ramparts of Exmoor. Some of these paths were little more than game trails widened by the ancient men who passed among these hunting grounds between historic Caesar’s Camp and the mysterious Guild Hall over Embelle Bay. “Landslides are not infrequent on these unstable, seawards cliffs of the moor and many of the paths which were passable in Afghan’s younger days are now unused and overgrown terminating in sheer precipices where the land has fallen away. “According to Afghan, a former landowner went to the trouble of bringing mountaineers over from Switzerland especially to construct some of these scenic paths. In steep places they worked with Alpine techniques using ropes and ice-picks. A century’s storms have swept away much of their fantastic work, and much of the remainder is quite overgrown and hidden away. “Afghan’s notes refer to Apple Dumpling Point and Cherry Tree Steep. The first is a rocky outcrop on the Culbone Path, which apparently got its name when a group of workmen, toiling there a long time ago, grew weary of hearing one of their mates boasting about his wife’s apple dumplings. While his back was turned the opened his lunch box and, to use Afghan’s phrase, ‘abstracted the apple contents from the dumplings and substituted some rubbish.’ He goes on to speak of the merriment of the workmen at their meal break, when their mate bit into his vaunted viands. Culbone Church “Whether the glorious cherry tree which gives its name to Cherry Tree Steep was planted by the monks of Chapel Knap, or grew from a walking stick which sprouted from being carelessly struck in the fruitful earth, Afghan seems uncertain, but he was more sure of himself on the matter of ghosts on these paths. “Big yellow dogs, strange figures all in black and unseen, ghostly presences all figure in his reminiscent notes. He pointed out that one part was strangely avoided by woodland birds.” The Route: Hiking the Dramatic Porlock Coastline As a boy I was taken to this eerie section of coast beyond Culbone – and indeed, there were no birds. The vertiginous area certainly does have a strange, sepulchral feel to it – which may or may not be to do with the Graves of the Forty Doones that are situated not far away. What exactly the barrows of that name are – who put them there and why - not even Afghan knew. But he did know all about the customs officer who used to patrol this most lonely of tracts. His job was to patrol the path between Porlock Weir and Lynmouth each and every night. Writing from Afghan’s notes, my father recorded: “This gentleman carried a swordstick. With it he made furious passes at a ghostly figure which insisted on accompanying him. In the end he got fed up, slashing at empty air, and in time he learned to value the company of his silent companion on the solitary night time vigils.” But my favourite of all the Afghan reminiscences is an anecdote relating to a mysterious man of true and tremendous style and élan. Again, I refer to my father’s notes: “It seems that in a little dell beside the Culbone pathway, Afghan once saw a man walking about in ever-widening circles probing the ground with a sharp-ended stick. “Curiosity getting the better of him, Afghan approached the man and asked if he had lost something. ‘No,’ was the reply. ‘But each year, when I am in this area, I always bury a couple of bottles of beer so that when the next holiday comes around and we are dry with walking, I can mystify my companions by asking them if they are thirsty. And then, as if by magic in this lonesome place, I produce the much needed drinks.’ “Afghan said nothing but watched the stranger dubiously, until the man suddenly stopped probing with his stick and began scraping aside the mossy earth. Presently he dug up two bottles of beer.” In all the years I’ve been trudging up and down the celebrated path, I have never succeeded in emulating this moment of panache. But the remarkable little tale is the reason I first fell in love with the nation’s favourite long distance trail and so I have the mysterious plucker of bottles, and Afghan, to thank for all the seaside miles I’ve paced. Exmoor coast where the Grave of the Forty Doones hide in the steep woods The 40 Graves Where are the Graves of the Forty Doones? Exmoor's vertical coastline stretches from Porlock out towards the Somerset-Devon border with hills dropping more than 1,200 feet down to sea-level. Along the way there are countless coombes with myriad paths running through thick woods where all you can hear is the cry of the peregrine and the crash of the waves. To make things worse the modern Exmoor Outdoor Leisure map makes no mention of either bandits' graves or Guildhalls - or anything else that might lead to a clue. But a 70 year-old map I have of the area does contain information... 'The Guildhall', just below Sugarloaf Hill and above Yenworthy Wood. The name 'Yenworthy' rang a bell and I looked in a cuttings file and found an old photo of the 'Doone Long Gun'. In the picture it's being held by Farmer Pile who, some thirty years ago lived at Yenworthy and for some reason kept this extraordinary weapon. Blackmoor had the Doones being shot at by just such a gun at a farm whose description fits Yenworthy exactly. In the story no-one is at home save for an old grandmother and, upon hearing that the Doones are on their way to rob her, she loads the long barrel with gunpowder, nails, tacks and anything else she can find. North Devon Foreland from the east As the marauders arrive she shoots, causing them to retreat in "great discomfiture". She had every right to do so - the last time they'd come a-calling they'd thrown the baby on the fire. With such discomfiting thoughts I dropped down over the hill into the steep coastal woods. And when I say dropped, you'll see that's no exaggeration - if you're ever lucky enough to visit this stunningly beautiful corner of the West Country. Everything is on the perpendicular around here, and if you were unfortunate enough to stumble upon the Guildhall from the south, you certainly would drop. There's a sheer 60 foot cliff face on one side of this rocky ravine. But what an eerie place the Guildhall is. There can be no geological reason for this dripping, mossy chasm, but oddly there are no records of there ever having been a quarry in such a remote location. Porlock Coast & Mysterious Graves Walk FAQs Where does the Porlock coast walk begin? This coastal walking route typically begins near Porlock Weir or the main Porlock village car parks, guiding walkers along the dramatic paths looking out over the Bristol Channel. Is the Porlock coast walk suitable for dogs? Yes, the coastal paths are popular with dog walkers. However, due to sheer cliff edges, narrow coastal trails, and the presence of nearby livestock or ground-nesting birds, dogs must be kept under close control. How difficult is the walking terrain along the Porlock coast? The terrain features stunning coastal vistas but includes uneven paths, rocky shoreline sections, and some steep ascents and descents characteristic of the Exmoor coastline. Sturdy walking boots are highly recommended.

I was working on my children’s story today - which is a nice thing to do on a wet and windy afternoon until your eyes grow weary with the words on the screen. The story is a sort of Dunster Fairytale - and it put me in mind of this lovely walk in the area. I’m talking about the hike that takes you out of Minehead and across the hills that lie inland to the south of the seaside town. Minehead, for those who don’t know it, is surrounded by high steep ridges which stretch around from the west to the south (to the north lies the Bristol Channel and to, the east, the flatlands of Dunster marshes). North Hill, to the west, is the prominence more favoured by walkers because it runs along the coast and plays host to the very start (or end) of the South West Coast Path. But the ridge to the south offers a fine hiking country as well, because you can still look down on plenty of seashore - but you also eventually get enormous vistas of the Avill Valley running up to Dunkery Beacon (Exmoor’s highest hill) and also of the central massif that is Croydon Hill, above Dunster’s historic Deer Park. The Route: Climbing Grabbist Hill from Dunster Village We walked up out of Minehead town centre to a place called Cher which is on what passes for the Minehead-to-Porlock bypass. Strange name, Cher - and nothing to do with female rockstars. Instead it is an ancient place where the Minehead Hobby Horse has traditionally performed a kind of primeval mating ritual on the dawn of each May Day. I remember witnessing these shenanigans some 30 years ago and, even then, wondering if something called political correctness wouldn’t one day step in to “clean up” the act. Think: fair maddens being held down underneath the shifting pulsating girth of a giant frisky man-made horse… Anyway, moving rapidly on we turned right and walked along the pavement for a few hundred metres before crossing the main-road and heading up the steep lane that eventually leads to Hopcott Common. Soon the climb takes you into the trees and after a while the paved road terminates in a car park, after which there is a choice of tracks which continue to ascend towards the common and the top. My advice is to stick to the tracks on your right, otherwise you might find yourself being lead along the contours to Alcombe Common, which is a bit low down on the ridge for our overall intentions. The righthand tracks will take you up through the trees and eventually introduce you to an ancient beech hedge (in which the trees have grown to heights of 60 or 70 feet) and this in turn will take you out onto the airy heaths of Hopcott ridge. Up here you are treated to magnificent views not only of Minehead far below, but of most of the vale of West Somerset, whose shoreline stretches east toward the distant Quantock Hills. We turned left to join the main ridge track and walk in the direction which increasingly revealed more and more of the vale. Once the Knowle Hill forests were out of the way on our righthand side, we were also able to see the deep, green, almost gorge-like valley of the Avill. Across the abyss to the south we could spy Vinegar Hill rising to lovely Gallox Hill with the remains of its ancient fortress - and past that there were the great forests of Croydon Hill climbing ever upwards towards the distant high escarpment of the Brendons. It’s a wide and well-worn track that runs east to Grabbist - the famous hill where Mrs Cecil Frances Alexander was so impressed that she wrote the hymn All Things Bright and Beautiful. As you near Dunster from this altitudinous angle, the track divides once or twice - but what we are looking for is the little path at Grabbist which cuts down the steepest (or southerly) side of this most vertical of hills. You could go straight on down into the village (as indeed this column did last time it ventured this way) but this time I wanted to take the public right-of-way that runs down through the trees on that near vertical southern slopes. It’s not too bad a descent, as the track drops gently down the contours rather than plunging straight for the bottom - which is just as well because if it did you’d need a climbing rope. Down and down goes the path - past then little shelf where the old Giant of Dunster is said to have lived - to a junction near the foot of Grabbist where you can go either left or right. We chose the latter because my daughter had left her car in the old Gallox Bridge part of the village. I suggest you do the same because you can stroll down to the ancient clapper bridge on the other side of which there’s a newish path that will take you down beside the River Avill under Dunster Castle’s ramparts before introducing you to the village’s main car parks. Beyond these there’s the A39 Minehead road where you can take a bus back to town, or a little further still there’s the West Somerset Railway which will do the same. Or you could walk on to the beach and turn left along the West Somerset Coast Path - which would eventually take you back to Minehead seafront. Either way, this is a lovely, lovely, walk that will show you unusual and dramatic views of some of the best known places in West Somerset. Exmoor Walk Details & Practical Information Basic walk: from Minehead over Hopcott Common to Dunster returning by bus, steam-train or along the West Somerset Coast Path. Distance and going: one way walk 4 miles - just over 6 if returning via the coast - easy going good tracks but a steep climb up to Hopcott. LOCAL VENUES Beyond the woods, the Foresters At the base of steep Grabbist Hill you will see the roadside Forester Arms in Dunster - a good local for a drink and some pub grub. https://www.foresters-arms-dunster.co.uk/ Liking the Luttrell In the centre of Dunster there’s the famous Luttrell Arms - a wonderful and stylish historic inn with excellent food. https://www.luttrellarms.co.uk/ All Ashore for the Ship Aground If you’re walking back along the coast - or if you fancy lunch or a snack back in Minehead rather than in Dunster, try the Old Ship Aground down by the quay where the food is reasonable and very reasonably priced. http://www.theoldshipaground.com/ To read about our Exmoor walks click here Grabbist Hill & Dunster Walk FAQs How long is the Grabbist Hill walk from Dunster? The walk typically takes between 1.5 to 2.5 hours depending on your chosen loop, covering roughly 3 to 4.5 miles of varied terrain. Is the walk up Grabbist Hill difficult? The initial ascent out of Dunster village is quite steep and requires a reasonable level of fitness, but once you reach the ridge line, the walking is relatively flat, open, and highly rewarding. Are dogs allowed on the Grabbist Hill walking trails? Yes, dogs are welcome on Grabbist Hill, but because it is a managed part of the Exmoor landscape, you may encounter free-roaming livestock. Dogs should be kept under close control or on a lead when sheep or ponies are present. Where is the best place to park for this Exmoor walk? The best option is to use the main pay-and-display car parks in Dunster village (such as the Dunster Steep car park) and begin your walk on foot from the village center up toward the ridge.

A Luxury Hideaway Above Mousehole, Cornwall A Cornish Holiday Invitation That’s Hard to Refuse Here’s an invitation few could resist: “Why don’t you and your wife try out a beautiful little hideaway property for two, perched above a famous Cornish fishing village? When you’re there, we’ll cook you a meal so memorable, you’ll be talking about it for months!” Okay, I’m in. Who wouldn’t be? Controversy Versus Reality: Is the Fallen Angel an Eyesore? Oh… until you see online that one of the more scurrilous national newspapers recently did a hatchet-job on the particular hideaway in question, calling it an eyesore. Which is claptrap. I have now stayed at the Fallen Angel, a fabulous, architect-designed, tiny, two-room property at Mousehole, and believe it adds but does not take anything away from this highly-popular, much-changed, harbour-village. A Modern Holiday Home That Blends with Mousehole’s Changing Identity It is a modern building and not an old granite cottage, that much is true. But in my opinion it fits ideally with its setting and does not impinge in any way when it comes to the overall look of the village. Moreover, when I say that Mousehole is much-changed, I mean in a demographic sense. No longer home to fishing families, the village is now one of the most holiday-home-centric communities in the South West peninsula. More than half of those charming little terraced homes are holiday-homes and AirBandBs. If you enjoy this page look at other Cornish articles on our website The Transformation of a Derelict Shed into a Romantic Getaway in Cornwall Which is another reason why I feel supportive of the property in question. An existing dwelling was not taken away from being a potential home for a local family - instead, the owners rescued what was more-or-less a derelict shed sitting on a very steep, overgrown, parcel of land. I know that to be true because I’ve seen a photo-album filled with pictures focussing on the development of the place. Experiencing the Fallen Angel in Mousehole I was more than happy with the idea of going to stay in the Fallen Angel at Mousehole - and even happier after my wife and I had spent a wonderful weekend in the so-called “Hitler’s bunker”. Honestly! Where do scurrilous tabloids get their mad ideas from, other than in their bid to create more cheap and nasty clickbait? And Hitler’s bunker was deep underground - not a place enjoying truly glorious views… Incredible Coastal Views and Intimate Luxury The Fallen Angel has some of the best coastal views in this region. It is a wonderful little, one-up-one-down, property. I highly recommend it to anyone who’s looking for somewhere unique and very special, perhaps in which to spend a special occasion with a loved one. Wedding anniversary? Honeymoon? Then the place offers a perfect getaway. Indeed, I’m told it’s popular with those who plan an “elopement wedding”, which I didn’t even know was a thing. The Inside Story: Romance, Architecture and Attention to Detail I do now, because my friend Rebecca Farrington-Turner told me so. Indeed, it was she who sent the invitation mentioned in the first paragraph. Because, with her husband Robin Turner, (the Cornish seafood expert well known to readers of these pages), Rebecca runs Indulgence Catering - a superb little outfit which often provides wondrous meals to those folk fortunate enough to have hired the Fallen Angel. More about them later, because they did indeed bring us a banquet we shall remember for months. A True Cornish Hideaway That Lives Up to Its Name But first, why do I keep using the phrase hideaway to describe a property which, as I’ve said, is perched above a village? Surely, you can’t have it both ways - either you’re tucked away or you are located in a situation which enjoys tremendous views? Well, one of the excellent things about this architect-designed property is that the shape of the one-up-one-down building follows the line of a slight tuck in the steep contours above Mousehole. As such, it has a tucked-away aspect - it does not shout its presence to those standing down on the quayside looking up at the hills behind. To quote the property’s blurb: “Set in its own sub-tropical gardens, every element of the creative architecture, landscaped garden and interior design has been thought through to deliver a decadent and relaxing hideaway for two.” Accessing the Fallen Angel: Secluded Yet Worth the Effort But this hideaway theme does perhaps point to the Fallen Angel’s one slight drawback. It is hard to find. You cannot drive to it, or even near it. Indeed, I’d recommend parking in the village’s quayside car-park and doing a recce on foot before dragging your luggage up through the narrow streets to find the steep path which eventually takes you to the steps leading to the old wooden door that seals-off the landscaped garden from the rest of the world. The Luxurious Interior of a High-End Cornish Holiday Rental However, once you’re behind that door - once you’ve climbed the steps between the palm trees and the Japanese style gravel terraces to the villa itself - you will realise what I mean about ‘hideaway’. Private bolt-hole might be better. Attractive and luxurious retreat would be even more accurate. Because this place is luxurious. One of the most luxurious holiday-homes I’ve stayed in, which is saying something, because I’ve stayed in a lot. Everything is well-thought-out and top-of-its-class. Even the toaster is the snazziest I have ever used. To use the phrase “well-appointed” wouldn’t quite do the Fallen Angel justice. Everything in it is superb, and that is before you look out of the panoramic wall-to-ceiling windows and admire the view. An Upside-Down Design Perfect for Scenic Living Like the last Cornish holiday villa we featured in Hesp Out West, it’s an upside-down property. And why not? If you’ve got superb panoramas why not let the upper storey be the main living area where you spend most of your waking time? So the Fallen Angel has a large living room-kitchen with a balcony upstairs, and a very cosy but almost equally panoramic bedroom underneath. So panoramic, in fact, that there’s even a large old antique bath at the foot of the bed which allows you to soak an hour away while still enjoying the views. Dining with Indulgence Catering: A Highlight of the Stay We’re running out of space because I need to talk about Indulgence Catering, but let me describe a stay in Mousehole’s Fallen Angel this way… My wife and I are great do-ers and explorers. Usually whenever we go anywhere, we get out and about spending morning, noon and night hiking, or dining out, or whatever. At the Fallen Angel we more-or-less stayed put. We had gorgeous weather a couple of weekends ago, so there was every excuse to get out and explore? But apart from one hike and a couple of visits to the village pub, we put our feet up, didn’t go anywhere near the car, and simply enjoyed being in this fabulous place. If that isn’t a recommendation to kick crazy tabloid headlines into touch, I don’t know what is. FAQ Where is The Fallen Angel? The Fallen Angel is a luxury holiday property overlooking the fishing village of Mousehole on Cornwall's spectacular south-west coast. Is The Fallen Angel suitable for couples? Yes. Designed for two guests, it offers a peaceful and romantic setting with exceptional sea views and luxurious interiors. What makes The Fallen Angel unique? Its striking contemporary architecture, panoramic views over Mount's Bay and dramatic upside-down design make it unlike almost any other holiday property in Cornwall. Can you walk into Mousehole from The Fallen Angel? Yes. The harbour, galleries, cafés and restaurants of Mousehole are within easy walking distance. What is there to see near Mousehole? Visitors can explore Mousehole harbour, nearby Newlyn, Penzance, St Michael's Mount, the Minack Theatre, Land's End and the dramatic coastline of West Penwith. Is The Fallen Angel open all year? Yes. The property is ideal for both summer holidays and cosy winter breaks, when its dramatic coastal setting is especially atmospheric. Is it a good base for exploring West Cornwall? Absolutely. It provides easy access to many of Cornwall's best-known attractions while offering a peaceful retreat away from the busiest tourist areas.

Aboard the Sea Cloud Spirit We’ve recently been on a voyage aboard there amazing Sea Cloud Spirit and I am writing about it in tomorrow’s newspapers - namely the Western Morning News and Western Daily Press. After that I’ll be putting up a number of articles on here. Embarking in Naples The journey on the Sea Cloud Spirit commenced in Naples. The ship proceeded to Capri, where guests disembarked in what turned out to be the most heavy rainstorm imaginable. All good fun though and we had plenty of time to dry off because we then sailed to Trapani on the west coast of Sicily - a journey which took 36 hours under full cavas. The next stop was Sicily’s capital, Palermo - a vibrant town if ever there was one. . The Sea Cloud Spirit then transited the Messina Strait, continuing to Giardini Naxos and Taormina. The stop off at Giardini Naxos was particularly pleasant as we were able to take a small boat ride and swim in the rolling sea. The itinerary included a stop in Syracuse before the ship’s final leg to Valletta, Malta. Here on the website we will be outlining much much more ab out this fantastic voyage. And just to prove I was there here’s me enjoying a magic moment on the Lido Deck of the amazing Sea Cloud Spirit….

There Ought to Be More of Them… There ought to be more of them… is what my friends and I were agreeing while driving home from the Three Counties Autumn Show at Malvern . We were talking about large-scale country shows that take place at this time of the year because we hugely enjoyed our visit to the show, which is billed as the “UK’s biggest harvest season celebration”. It offers the ultimate demonstration of something this nation can do very well indeed… We are capable of growing some very good food. A Shrine to the Best of British Produce I have never seen such glorious fruit and vegetables. The Harvest Pavilion at the show could be described as a shrine dedicated to top-notch plant-based food. My friends and I were staggered by the quality. By the way, we’re not talking here about the fabulous CANNA UK National Giant Vegetables Championship, which is a huge (in more ways than one) crowd-pleaser at Malvern. The pre-event advertising blurb declared: “Needs to be seen to be believed!” That was no exaggeration. The veggie beasts in question were amazing! Jaw-dropping! But despite being a fun thing to admire, giant veg does not exactly whet the taste-buds. Big applause to the growers, but the Land of the Giants does not translate to anything you’d want to put on a plate. The Harvest Pavilion: A Feast for the Eyes Unlike the glorious Harvest Pavilion where more than 100 Grow to Show classes had attracted entries of prime vegetables and fruits (as well as cut-flowers, alpines, succulents, and a lot more besides). I do not exaggerate when I say that, collectively, the competition represented a celebration of the best plant-based edible matter I have ever seen in these islands. The market baskets (to give them the technical name) or vegetable collection displays were simply stunning. Each one represented a harvest festival on steroids in its own right. A still-life painter’s dream. I am not a vegetarian, but if one of these was delivered to my door each week, I’d be happy to go meat-free. Why Aren’t There More Autumn Country Shows? So I did find myself wondering why there aren’t more in the way of large-scale country shows staged in autumn? After all, we’ve been in prime harvest season over the past month - the very best of British is on display in just about every rural county - so why not strut-your-stuff and show the world what you can do? Of course, there are historical reasons why many of the large county shows (such as the Royal Cornwall, Devon County, Bath & West and, indeed, the Royal Three Counties) are held in late spring or early summer. For them a central component is the livestock, and early summer provides an ideal time to show off farm animals. Cattle, sheep, and pigs can be in peak physical condition after spring-grazing and of course farmers are keen to show off their breeding stock to potential buyers and demonstrate the quality of their bloodlines before animals are sold to market. There’s also, traditionally, been a slight lull in the farming calendar after spring planting and before the demanding main harvest. Autumn Shows: A Celebration of the Harvest Autumn-based shows have a different focus - their aim is to celebrate the harvest itself, with an emphasis on horticulture, food, and produce. And there really was a great deal to enjoy at the Three Counties Show-ground last weekend. Besides the fabulous produce there was the Garden Theatre, hosted this year by August Bernstein, head of The Raymond Blanc Gardening School at Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons. He welcomed a range of special guests, including BBC Gardeners’ World presenters Monty Don OBE and Adam Frost. The Gardening Village was filled with impressive floral displays and seasonal bargains, where green-fingered visitors were eyeing up next season’s inspiration and browsing the Bulb Market with its specialist growers. The RHS Flower Show in the Floral Marquee was, needless to say, a true celebration of plants and flowers featuring stunning floral displays and rare and unusual plants. The Great Malvern Cake Off and More There was also the The Great Malvern Cake Off tent, hosted by chef, author and regular on ITV’s This Morning, Marcus Bean, who was joined by a host of familiar faces from The Great British Bake Off. All this alongside all the usual fun of the fair that you’d see at any large country show. Far too much to mention here - everything from the World Pole Climbing Championships to farmyard animal events, to “dinosaur experiences” and willow weaving demos… Not to mention a truly vast food hall which was one of the biggest and best I’ve seen at any country show. A Perfectly Timed Rural Celebration In a nutshell, the Three Counties Autumn Show is a major rural event that enjoys perfect timing. I’d recommend paying a visit next September if you can. Planning an Autumn Break? The Three Counties Autumn Show is an excellent excuse for a long weekend exploring the Malvern Hills, historic Great Malvern, Ledbury and the surrounding countryside. Early autumn is one of Britain's finest seasons, with orchards heavy with fruit, cider-making underway and woodlands beginning to turn gold. FAQ When is the Three Counties Autumn Show held? The show normally takes place in September at the Three Counties Showground in Malvern, celebrating the British harvest with farming, food and countryside traditions. Where is the Three Counties Autumn Show? The event is held at the Three Counties Showground near Malvern, on the borders of Worcestershire, Herefordshire and Gloucestershire. What can visitors see at the Three Counties Autumn Show? Visitors can enjoy livestock competitions, giant vegetables, food and drink producers, cider, countryside crafts, demonstrations, shopping, family entertainment and horticultural displays. Is the Three Counties Autumn Show suitable for families? Yes. There are activities for all ages including farm animals, machinery displays, equestrian events, food experiences and hands-on demonstrations. Why is the Three Counties Autumn Show famous? It is regarded as one of Britain's biggest celebrations of the harvest season and showcases the very best of British farming, food production and rural life.

Sea Cloud under full sail off Sicily As we look toward Summer 2026, the travel world is changing. People are moving away from crowded 'tourist traps' in favour of what I’ve always called ‘Real Experiences.’ Whether it’s a luxury windjammer in the Med or a hidden cove in North Devon, this summer is all about finding the soul of a place. Here are my top recommendations from my own notebooks and journeys. Mount Etna gently smokes above a calm sea The Mediterranean Reimagined: Small Ship Cruising The Vibe: Sailing from Naples to Valletta. If you can afford it, skip the giant liners and look for wind-powered heritage vessels. A luxury holiday under sail gives you so, so much more—somehow you are a lot more connected to the sea and you feel that you’ve been on a real maritime journey. Plus, smaller sailing vessels like the Sea Cloud can visit much more intimate ports of call. Read more:Sailing Around Sicily & The Sea Cloud Spirit The "Cool-Cation" – Switzerland With Mediterranean summers getting hotter, Switzerland is a massive 2026 trend. The Vibe: Belle Époque elegance and mountain air. Steamer leaving Vitznau Follow in Mark Twain’s footsteps in Vitznau for a quieter, cooler summer escape. These cool mountain resorts really do offer a unique atmosphere in summer. There’s always plenty to do—endless walks, boat rides, funicular journeys, and excellent restaurants. Read more:Swiss Historic Hotels and The Matterhorn Steamer docks at Vitznau The Secret West Country A West Country holiday in 2026 offers the ultimate "slow travel" escape, where the allure of the Atlantic coast meets a sophisticated, human-centred revival of heritage and food. While the Mediterranean swelters, you can find sanctuary in the "cool-cation" breeze of the North Devon cliffs or the shaded coombes of Exmoor, perhaps timing your visit to catch the 50th-anniversary celebrations of Aardman in Bristol or a first-hand foraging masterclass along the Jurassic Coast. Exmoor Coast, looking down on Lynton and Lynmouth From the rejuvenated seaside charm of Clevedon on the Somerset coast to the timeless, salt-sprayed paths of Porthleven, the region remains a bastion of authentic, non-automated experiences where every pint of craft cider and every hidden cove tells a story that no algorithm could ever replicate. Clevedon Pier on a calm summer's day The Vibe: Hidden waterfalls and circular walks with a pub at the end. Head to the "untrodden" parts of the South West Coast Path to avoid the July and August crowds. Read more:Speke’s Mill Mouth: Devon’s Secret Seaside Read more:The Classic Fowey Circular Walk Speke's Mill Mouth beach Summer Flavours Summer 2026 is the season of the 'grown-up' drink—where the ancient art of the West Country meets modern refinement. Forget the mass-produced fizz; this year is all about the revived méthode champenoise techniques. Whether it’s the hefty, smoky tannins of a vintage cider or the crisp, botanical notes of a small-batch coastal gin, these are 'liquid stories' that celebrate the true heritage of the vine and orchard. The Vibe: Alfresco dining and artisanal drinks. Read more: Vintage Ciders Vintage ciders Heading North: Denmark & Scotland While the Mediterranean remains iconic, the 'punishing' heatwaves of recent years have changed the game. For Summer 2026, savvy travellers are looking North. I’ve spent time exploring the 'Coastal Lands' of Denmark and the rugged beauty of Scotland, finding that you don’t need blistering heat to have a world-class seaside holiday. Negotiating the locks on the Calednonian Canal Denmark: Kystlandet and the "Newlyn of the North" When I visited Northern Denmark, I was struck by the incredible quality of the light, which I learned gave rise to an artistic connection between Cornwall and Denmark. The Destination: Skagen and Kystlandet (The Coastal Land). I’d also recommend a stay at the Jørgensens Hotel in Horsens for a civilised, quiet, and well-mannered escape. Jetty in Kystlandet Read more: Skagen, Denmark: Artists and Light Read more: Aarhus: Europe's City of Smiles Scotland: The Great Glen and the "Spirit of Scotland" For those seeking the "Big North" feel without leaving the UK, the Caledonian Canal offers a majestic alternative. The Vibe: Sumptuous on-board dining while gliding past Ben Nevis. It’s "Slow Travel" at its finest. Read more: Spirit of Scotland Barge Cruise Landscape on the isle of Tuno What are the biggest travel trends for Summer 2026? Travellers are increasingly looking for cooler destinations, walking holidays, authentic food experiences and slower, more sustainable ways to explore. What is a coolcation? A coolcation is a summer holiday in a destination with milder temperatures, such as the Alps, Scandinavia or the Atlantic coast, rather than the hottest Mediterranean resorts. Why are walking holidays becoming more popular? Walking holidays combine exercise, nature, local culture and good food, making them one of Europe's fastest-growing forms of leisure travel. Is the West Country a good summer alternative to overseas travel? Yes. Devon, Cornwall, Somerset and Exmoor offer spectacular coastlines, walking routes, excellent food and generally cooler temperatures than many southern European destinations.

Rediscovering Bristol’s Harbourside Charm Sipping a pint of beer the other day, the thought struck me that we humans are an odd lot. Many of us will have often made the same observation, but on this occasion it was inspired by both the beer and the lively and interesting view out of the bar’s window. Here I was in the heart of Bristol - a city I know well, but haven’t visited for years - and I was struck by how odd it is that we humans we often tend to ignore the good things around us. For example, various London friends tell me that they rarely go to the West End, despite the fact that it was one of the reasons they moved to the capital city in the first place. I am like that when it comes to this region’s handful of cities. I used to be a regular visitor to Bristol back in the days when arts venues like the Arnolfini and the Watershed were first opening, but haven’t been back in yonks. So, sipping this pint of excellent beer while looking out of the large windows of a very pleasant and trendy waterside bar, I was overcome by feelings of regret. It was a beautiful sunny day last week and Bristol’s old harbour area was looking attractive, glitzy and fascinating. I should definitely visit more often. Bristol Brewery Tours: A Visit to the Bristol Beer Factory Even the pub itself was intriguing, as was the pint of ale I keep mentioning. The dockside watering hole happened to be run by the same brewery that had made the beer - a brewery that, in my ignorance, I had not really come across before… A brewery which now happens to be one of the largest and most dynamic in all of South West England. I really do need to get out more - is what I ended up thinking… And without further ado, I did just that. I left the excellent Junction bar, down on busy Wapping Wharf, and walked a mile or so west to meet the team at the Bristol Beer Factory - a business which, in its own way, has been witness to the city’s more recent development and evolution. Back when I was haunting Bristol’s start-up galleries, art cinemas and student bars 40 years ago, the regional capital still had one foot in the grime of the Industrial Revolution - now it is widely considered one of the UK’s most desirable cities. Why Bristol Is One of the UK’s Best Places to Live And that, apparently, is thanks to the high quality of life in general, the vibrant cultural scene, and the many green and watery spaces you’ll find somewhere within sight of that famous suspension bridge. Bristol consistently ranks high in those perennial “best city in which to live” lists - it has been named Britain’s only “European Green Capital” - and it was also recognised as the country’s “happiest city” in 2024. Now, obviously none of this can be down to a single brewery no matter how good the pints it produces - but it does seem that the rise and rise of the Bristol Beer Factory reflects, to some extent, the upturn in the city’s fortunes. The Story of Bristol Beer Factory: From Milk Stout to Modern Success To find out more, I sat down in the Bristol Beer Factory’s HQ with managing director Sam Burrows and e-commerce and marketing manager Kezia Williams, who were able to provide an outline of the brewery’s 21-year journey. The story begins with its founding in 2004 and continues through two decades to the leading, modern, and socially-conscious brewery we see today. Craft Beer Heritage and Innovation The story includes early recognition, which came in 2006 after the award-winning resurrection of famous Milk Stout recipe. After that, BBF established itself as Bristol’s first modern craft brewery, introducing popular, hoppy pale-ales like Independence and Southville Hop around 2010. Sam credits part of its success to strategic investment during the COVID-19 pandemic, resulting in a full rebrand, the introduction of lagers, and the phenomenal growth of its alcohol-free Clear Head, now its second best-selling beer. And Clear Head, by the way, is a key part of their partnership with Talk Club, a men’s mental fitness charity, demonstrating a commitment to community health and social impact. Brewing in Bristol’s BS3 Heartland Due to the company’s massive growth (now employing over 110 people across the brewery and six pubs) and also because of the physical constraints of the old brewery buildings, the Bristol Beer Factory recently moved its production to a modern new facility just down the road, choosing a location that keeps its BS3 heritage. If you don’t know the city, perhaps it’s worth noting that BS3 plays host to the Ashton Gate stadium and Bristol City Football Club. The area south of the Cumberland Basin is just about as Bristol as Bristol can get. Heritage, Community and Craft Beer Identity “George Ferguson, a local architect and one of our founders, was really keen to keep all this heritage going, which is one reason he bought up the old brewery buildings here, as well as a nearby tobacco factory,” Sam told me. “They’d been brewing on this site since the 1830s - it stopped in the 1930s, then started again in 2004 when Bristol Beer Factory was formed. Early on, they found an original recipe for the milk stout that was brewed here - and it went on to win a major Campaign For Real Ale Award. “After that we became the first Bristol brewery on the craft brewing scene. Our USP has always been having a huge variety of different beers and specials.” Across their can, keg, and cask ranges, they produce around 35 to 40 different different beers or products a year. They also focus on new releases around seasonality and time-of-year. And alcohol content is also important - BBF concentrate on brewing beers with a “drinkable ABV,” generally between just 3.8% and a little higher, which is much more amenable to pub customers. Clear Head and the Alcohol-Free Craft Beer Movement “The fact that Clear Head sells so well indicates its quality and taste,” said Kezia. “We have successfully overcome some of the negative perceptions alcohol-free beers have had in the past. The recipe was perfected by Head Brewer, Tristan Hembrow, during the COVID-19 lockdown, and demonstrates the commitment we had to investment and innovation during a difficult time.” Bristol Beer Factory: Community, Charity and Brewed to Give As a food and drink writer, I’ve been to literally scores of breweries down the years, but if I’m honest I can’t remember ever visiting an outfit like the Bristol Beer Factory before. The entire operation seems so switched-on, for lack of a better phrase. The people I met who work there really do appear to share an enthusiasm - it’s as though they’re working for a sports team, rather than just another business. Perhaps one way of trying to explain this sense of togetherness which extends almost to evangelism, is to mention the company’s charitable work. In the last two years BBF has raised a staggering £625,000 for community groups across the city through its Brewed to Give initiative. Launched in 2023, the initiative pledges two percent from every brewery sale to local charities and causes. It is about more than just signing a cheque. “We donate cost-price beer, bar equipment, event space and hands-on support, helping groups raise funds for themselves, from street festivals to school raffles,” Sam explained. “In doing so, Brewed to Give flips beer into real cash, maximising the impact of its support and meaning that one hundred percent of the funds raised are kept by the community, for the community. “Every keg, cask or can leaving our yard gives something back to the city. “Brewed to Give is about connection, fairness and doing our bit for Bristol. We’re not just brewing beer, we’re helping brew a fairer city, and every pint counts.” You could say that the ales and lagers coming out of the new brewery close to the Ashton Gate stadium really do manage to reach parts other beers fail to connect with. I certainly enjoyed meeting the team, I enjoyed my brewery tour (which is something readers can do if they visit https://www.bristolbeerfactory.co.uk) and my lunch at one of the BBF venues, as well as the box of different beers, stouts and ales that I took home. And, as it happens, I thoroughly enjoyed my recent visit to central Bristol. I really should embrace our inner cities more often. SIDEBAR: Thumbs Up For Low Alcohol and a Clear Head On a tour of BBF’s impressive new brewery, head brewer Tristan Hembrow told me they use lactose in the recipe for Clear Head to give it a better mouthfeel, so it doesn’t “feel like water” which is a common complaint with alcohol-free alternatives. I’m happy to vouch that it is a very good option. Being an old fashioned imbiber of beer, I’ve not really taken to alcohol-free (or low-alcohol) options down the years, but I would be more than happy to have a pint or two of Clear Head. It is sold straight out the tap, just like any real-ale in a pub, so you can happily quaff pints and not feel left out when your mates are enjoying what some of us old dinosaurs would call “the real thing”. Tasting notes say: “With big hitting US hops Citra and Mosaic, this beer has plenty of punch as well as a subtle smooth creamy sweetness. Sharp citrus, apple and stone fruits shine through, finishing with a crisp dryness on your palette. Pairing well with everything, this beer will see you through all the seasons without the need for alcohol.” I also enjoyed BBF’s new Gravity Pils Lager (4.1% abv). “A pure, unfiltered pilsner with classic Czech character. Noble hops deliver fresh, crisp energy with a clean, refreshing finish.” Is Bristol Beer Factory open to visitors? Bristol Beer Factory regularly welcomes visitors through its taproom and selected brewery events. Check opening times before travelling. What is Bristol famous for besides beer? Bristol is famous for its historic floating harbour, street art, independent food scene, music, and vibrant cultural life alongside its excellent breweries. Is Bristol good for craft beer? Yes. Bristol is widely regarded as one of the UK's leading craft beer destinations, with numerous independent breweries, taprooms and traditional pubs. Can you visit breweries in Bristol? Several Bristol breweries offer tours, taprooms or special tasting events throughout the year. When is the best time to visit Bristol? Spring through autumn offers the best weather for exploring the harbourside, brewery taprooms and outdoor beer gardens.

Looking for one of the prettiest short walks in South Devon? This 3.5-mile circular walk around Tuckenhay follows the tranquil shores of Bow Creek before climbing to the hidden village of Cornworthy and returning via Corkscrew Hill. Expect waterside scenery, abundant birdlife, ancient lanes and one of Devon's finest pub finishes. The Dart Valley cuts a slice of countryside so deep and secluded that it feels a world away—and this short, sensational loop from the creek-side hamlet of Tuckenhay is proof. This 3.5-mile circular walk is utterly crammed with waterside views, the haunting call of wildfowl, ancient trackways, and picturesque, time-forgotten villages. It scores at least nine-out-of-ten on the 'Hesp-patent-Hikometer'. If you like these posts take a look at our Devon page here Starting from The Maltster's Arms The journey begins right outside the legendary Maltster’s Arms pub, perfectly positioned for a post-hike reward. Leave the pub and proceed east to the little side creek which plays host to Tuckenhay Bridge. Cross the stile at the end of the creek and follow the footpath along the water’s edge. The path immediately wends and weaves along the lower contours of the Bow Wood nature reserve. This wonderful 30-acre corner of paradise—owned by the Tuppen family—is a haven of peace and quiet, delighting local wildlife thanks to the 13,000 native trees that have been planted. Bow Creek: A Hidden Haven of Haunted Mystery Eventually, the path opens onto the main expanse of Bow Creek. This hidden haven has an atmosphere of haunted mystery about it—it is Devon’s beautiful, secluded answer to Cornwall’s Frenchman's Creek. Keep an eye out for the resident shelduck, egrets, and piping oyster-catchers. (Note: The path follows the creek east, but a sign on a gate unfortunately prevents wandering all the way to Dittisham Mill Creek. It's inland for us now!) Climbing to the Mysterious Cornworthy Leave the water’s edge for a beautiful ancient track that heads inland, leading you up to the lovely old village of Cornworthy. Jane Fitzgerald, in her book Off The Map, describes how "The village of Cornworthy is almost lost between the hills that surround it. The dark stone buildings give it a rather serious air." With the history of the old Priory (now just a series of mounds) lying nearby, this place certainly feels deep and mysterious, carrying the genuine 'feel of ages'. The Grand Finale: Panoramic Views from Corkscrew Hill The final leg of the hike offers the ultimate reward: the return over Corkscrew Hill. This part of the walk offers fabulous, sweeping views—not only of Bow Creek far below, but across a whole swathe of this eastern corner of the South Hams. As the track begins its sharp descent to Tuckenhay Bridge, you can opt for the footpath that offers a shortcut across a steep field. If you do, you'll get a spectacular, helicopter view of the waterside homes—maybe one day! An evening view of Bow Creek at Tuckenhay Floyd Flashback: The Maltsters and the TV Chef For those who love a dash of celebrity history with their hike, the start of this walk is famous for its former owner: the legendary, bolshie, wine-swilling TV presenter, Keith Floyd. A West Country boy born and bred, Floyd ran The Maltster's Arms for a while. Though he is long gone, tales and legends of his time remain by the notebook load. It’s hard to imagine finding anywhere deeper and more secluded in the Devon countryside than Tuckenhay, and yet it was home to one of TV’s most irreverent stars. Raise a pint in the snug bar in honour of the region's most famous—perhaps only—TV chef. Fact File Basic Hike: Circular route from Tuckenhay along Bow Creek, up to Cornworthy, and return over Corkscrew Hill. Recommended Map: Ordnance Survey Outdoor Leisure 20 - South Devon. Distance and Going: Approximately 3.5–4 miles, good going, but be prepared for a steep climb/descent (Corkscrew Hill) and a few muddy spots. The landlord wisely recommends going clockwise to descend the steepest part. Beautiful Bow Creek near Tuckenhay Is the Tuckenhay circular walk difficult? The route is around 3.5 miles with generally good paths, although there is one steep climb and descent around Corkscrew Hill. How long does the walk take? Most walkers should allow between 1½ and 2 hours, longer if stopping for photographs or birdwatching. Where do you park for the Tuckenhay walk? Parking is available near Tuckenhay and around The Maltsters Arms, although spaces can be limited during busy periods. Is the walk dog friendly? Yes, but dogs should be kept under control around livestock and wildlife. Can you eat after the walk? The Maltsters Arms is one of South Devon's best-known riverside pubs and makes an excellent place to finish the walk.

Wild salmon… The two words conjure images of magnificent creatures leaping waterfalls as they make their way back to the place where they were born to spawn the next generation, after completing one of the most remarkable migratory routes imaginable. And for better or worse, the idea of local wild salmon also conjures thoughts of one of the most delicious seafoods available. Or I should say, used to be available. Because last summer was the final time any of us get the chance to taste this most fabulous of fish for a decade or more. The End of Salmon Netting on the River Exe Netting for salmon in England’s estuaries has come to an end now that a 10-year ban has been put in place in a bid to see if the move helps to reverse the decline in stocks. The move ended more than 1000 years of tradition and history. There’s documentary evidence to show that folk were netting these gleaming fish on the River Exe, for example, for centuries - maybe even since Roman times. So you can imagine my enthusiasm when a young chef called Tom Williams invited me to a special wild salmon supper at his excellent Salutation Inn, in Topsham. Actually, I couldn’t make it - but I did want to know about the salmon. It turned out that Tom’s dad, Ed Williams - a well known figure around the Exe estuary - is a member of a crew of nets-men who are licensed to fish for the salmon. Ed goes out onto the river for just two-and-a-half months a year with a man called Terry Rowsell and his crew - and they invited me to join them one day this week to see what the seine-netting is all about. A Day with the Last Salmon Netters I can tell you one thing it’s not about: catching fish. We returned to Topsham empty handed after a few hours hauling nets out on the mudbanks downstream. Indeed, they’d only caught two fish (along with two sea trout) in three weeks when I visited - but what they do catch, son Tom buys for the historic Salutation Inn, where he is occasionally able to put on special wild salmon suppers as a traditional treat for his regulars. It’s hard to believe that the ancient netting practise can be too ruinous for salmon stocks. These were only three boats left with a license on the Exe and , as I say, they only fished for 10 weeks a year. And when you see how seine-netting works, it is environmentally-friendly. The net is only in the water for 20 minutes and it does not cross the entire stream between the mud-banks. Even if all three boats were to shoot nets three or four times every day (which they don’t) it would leave the migratory fish pretty much unhindered. Terry told me the last time a count was made two years ago, the River Exe anglers recorded catches of more 600 salmon (many of which would have been returned) while all three netting boats together accounted for just 100. “I’ve done this all my life,” said 81-year-old Terry as we set off aboard his small boat. There used to be 25 licensed boats in my young days and then we’d make more money… Say we’d get a fiver a week in a normal job - when we were salmoning we could make as much as 60 quid. “It was nothing for us to catch 20 or 30 on a tide. Now you’re lucky to catch one or two. I think the gill nets (out to sea) are to blame.” “They’re monofilament nets and they shoot them for 25 miles,” added Ed. “What we catch doesn’t affect the stocks, we don’t think,” said Terry. “So they (the Environment Agency) are finishing a way of life. I’ve done it for 70 years, since I was a tacker. It was your real livelihood back then. There’s no money it now. Since they got the farmed salmon in Scotland - that killed the wild salmon prices. But anything wild tastes better. The Future of Wild Salmon in England “Now this fishing will be gone. There will be nobody left to do it in ten years time. I make the nets myself and no one will know how to do that. There’ll be nobody around who wants to do it anyway. Next year it will be all gone. It makes me feel sad because I think the tradition should carry on. It won’t come back - who will want to do it? You‘ve been out today - we didn’t get anything - so it’s cost me more money in petrol than anything I could make.” Beaten but not defeated… I may have been going home with an empty cool box but Ed’s son Tom had invited me to lunch at the Salutation Inn where he had prepared the most amazing seafood platter - which included a portion of the wild River Exe salmon. It was delicious and later Tom told me how his family had bought the old coaching in eight years ago and refurbished it to become the luxurious watering hole that it is today. He also told me about his own impressive career as a chef and about how he has a passion for the wild salmon that his father Ed and Terry occasionally manage to catch. “We get amazing fish,” said Tom. “If it’s not from the river it’s from the sea nearby. We’ve just had a load of lobsters in fresh from Ladram Bay. We like to get all the wild salmon that’s caught and I’m lucky that dad is a member of one of the crews. We also get salmon from another boat. Why Wild Salmon Taste Different “There is a huge difference (between wild and farmed salmon). You can see it in the appearance - it’s the depth of colour. The fish is so fresh - it hasn’t even been in a vehicle, just brought up the hill. The taste, the colour - it’s entirely different. These fishermen only take a small amount of the fish that are going up the river - and they do play a part in the preservation of the salmon.” I put it to Tom that quite a lot of the recipes you see today designed to mask the flavour of farmed salmon rather than highlight it. “We like to keep it simple,” he told me. “ Fillet it down, take the pin-bones out and score the skin - then just pan fry it. We do that as one option, but if they have a good landing we might cure it - and if there’s a really good landing we will get it cold-smoked. That is so good - when you look at that compared to supermarket smoked salmon, there is a vast difference. “We’ve done tartare salmon (raw) for a canapé party - literally just diced some with a bit of horseradish or come capers. It just doesn’t need too much doing to it. “Serving salmon here is a tradition that is a part of Topsham,” Tom added. “It has been going on for generations and generations. It is a special product that needs to be celebrated - and it is part of the town.” Tom Williams’ wild River Exe salmon with summer vegetables and basil cream Ingredients, (serves two) 2 portions wild salmon fillets, scaled and pin-boned Handful cherry tomatoes Two medium plum tomatoes 2 little gem lettuces, washed and halved Small bunch of English asparagus Large bunch of basil – keeping a few smaller leaves aside for garnish Samphire – ask your fishmonger 250ml single cream Small bundle of thyme 100ml fish stock (optional) 1 lemon 1 tbsp plain flour 2 tbsp black olive pureePreheat the oven to 150 degrees Summer vegetables Prepare the asparagus by removing the woody end and peel the stalk a little if it looks gnarly. Spike the cherry tomatoes and criss-cross the plum tomato on the top where it would attach to the vine. Lightly wash the samphire. Prepare a pan of boiling salted water and get a bowl of water full of ice ready. Blanch the asparagus for approx. three minutes, before plunging into the ice to refresh. Blanch the cherry tomatoes for 2 – 3 seconds, and the plum tomato for 10 seconds and add to the ice. Submerge the samphire in the boiling water for seconds, before adding to the ice. Blanch the basil leaves in the boiling water leaving the stalks on for three or four minutes until transparent and soft. Remove from the water and place in a blender with the cream. Blitz for a couple of minutes until you have a green basil foam. Pass through a fine sieve and season to taste. Remove all ingredients from the ice onto a tray lined with kitchen roll to drain. De-skin the tomatoes, de-seed the plum tomato and dice finely. Put the cherry tomatoes onto a lightly oiled baking tray and roast for 8 minutes. In a medium hot frying pan, add light olive oil and sauté the gem lettuce along with the thyme. Season well with salt and pepper. Once it starts to wilt, add a little fish stock if you would like to cook the lettuce thoroughly and for a deeper flavour – alternatively leave it so a little bite remains. Lightly flour the fish skin and season the fish all over. In a non-stick pan, cook skin side down for four to five minutes depending on how pink you like the fish. Turn over to seal the underside. Remove from the pan and season with a squeeze of fresh lemon juice. Lightly warm the rest of the ingredients through the oven with a little olive oil. Arrange nicely on the plate with little splodges of black olive puree, a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil to taste and garnish with the small basil leaves. Watching Terry and his crew haul those heavy nets through the tidal waters of the Exe, it struck me that this was about far more than catching fish. It was the end of a craft handed down through generations, the loss of a unique vocabulary and a way of life that had survived wars, recessions and changing fashions. Whether the ban succeeds in restoring salmon numbers remains to be seen, but nobody can deny that something precious disappeared when those nets were finally folded away. Frequently Asked Questions About Wild Salmon Netting Why has salmon netting on the River Exe ended? Commercial salmon netting in England's estuaries has been suspended under conservation measures designed to help declining wild salmon populations recover. The ban marked the end of a fishing tradition that had continued for many centuries. Is wild salmon different from farmed salmon? Yes. Wild salmon generally have firmer flesh, a deeper natural colour and a richer flavour because of their varied diet and active lifestyle. Many chefs regard wild salmon as one of Britain's finest seasonal foods. Where was salmon netting carried out? For generations, licensed fishermen worked the tidal waters of the River Exe near Topsham using traditional seine nets, passing their skills from one generation to the next. Can you still eat wild British salmon? Wild salmon is now rarely available in England because of conservation measures and strict fishing restrictions designed to protect declining stocks. Why are wild salmon numbers declining? Scientists believe several factors have contributed, including climate change, pollution, barriers to migration, habitat loss and changing conditions at sea. Conservation measures aim to improve the chances of recovery.