White dunes of the Curonian Spit I have just returned from a truly magnificent press trip to Lithuania, and I am still buzzing from the experience. It was a hugely enjoyable, fascinating, and deeply interesting journey that took me through some of the most beautiful and unique coastal landscapes northern Europe has to offer. From the shifting sand dunes of the dramatic Curonian Spit to the peaceful waterways of the Nemunas Delta, this is a region that captured my imagination. I am already at work on a major, in-depth Hesp Out West style feature where I will delve into the rich culture, wonderful people, incredible food, and spectacular landscapes I encountered. Fascinating raised bogs of the Nemunas Delta That comprehensive write-up will be landing on this website very soon. However, because I know many of you will want to add this destination to your own travel wishlists , I wanted to share some highly useful, practical recommendations right away. Sent over by my fantastic PR guide from the trip, here is the essential, boots-on-the-ground information you need to navigate Lithuania’s stunning coastal region with ease. Getting Around: Airport Transfers and Car-Sharing Palanga International Airport Transport: Public transport is available from the airport, though it isn't always the most convenient option depending on your arrival time. For a seamless journey, you can pre-book a transfer using the Bolt app. Prices are very reasonable, usually ranging from €10 to €28 depending on your final destination. Useful Link: Download or book via the Bolt App Self-Driving with CityBee: If you prefer the freedom of driving yourself without the hassle of traditional rental desks, look out for the CityBee car-sharing service. You will find their cars conveniently parked right near the airport exit. Useful Link: CityBee Car-Sharing Lithuania Navigating Public Transport, Trains, and Ferries Bus Travel: If you plan to use the national bus network, you can easily check schedules and buy your tickets in advance online. Useful Link: Lithuanian Bus Tickets and Schedules Train Travel: For exploring Lithuania by rail, tickets and routes can be managed directly through the official rail portal. Useful Link: LTG Link Lithuanian Railways Crossing to the Curonian Spit (Neringa): If you are heading out to the magical Curonian Spit, it is vital to check the ferry timetables before you travel. Be aware that there are separate terminals depending on whether you are traveling as a foot passenger only or crossing with a vehicle. Useful Link: Keltas Ferry Timetables and Info Money, Language, and Local Advice Cards vs. Cash: Digital and mobile payments are accepted almost everywhere you go in Lithuania. However, it is still highly recommended to keep some euros in cash on you, particularly if you want to sample local delicacies at the traditional markets or use smaller, local transport services. Language: Language barriers are virtually non-existent for visitors here. In the vast majority of hotels, restaurants, and tourism services, the staff speak excellent English. Nature, Wildlife, and Cycling Highlights National and Regional Parks: The coastal region is a haven for nature lovers, boasting the Seaside Regional Park, the Nemunas Delta Regional Park, and the crown jewel—the Curonian Spit National Park. UNESCO World Heritage: The breathtaking landscape of the Curonian Spit is so culturally and naturally significant that it was officially inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2000. A Paradise for Birdwatching: If you are an avid birdwatcher or nature enthusiast, pack your binoculars. The region sits directly on a major international migration route between the White Sea and the Baltic Sea, making it a globally significant location for scientific research and birdwatching. Two-Wheeled Adventures: The area is a dream for cyclists, forming part of the EuroVelo network. Specifically, the EuroVelo 10 (Baltic Sea Cycle Route) runs right through the coastal area and the Curonian Spit, seamlessly connecting the Klaipėda region with neighbouring Baltic countries. (Stay tuned for the full, detailed feature on my Lithuanian adventures coming to the website very soon!) Hesp sets sail - in a land-yacht on the Curonian Spit

Every week through the work I used to do as Editorial Director for RAW Food & Drink PR I wrote and edited a double page spread for the food pages of the Western Morning News. Occasionally we'd even hit the front page… Here’s one of the latest offerings - and it’s a delicious one all to do with Christmas dinner… As December continues many of us will be thinking ahead to Christmas and wondering what kind of festivities we’ll be enjoying this year. It is going to be different - that is for sure - especially for those of us who normally cater for a crowd. So I’ve been thinking about the festive season and talking to some of my friends and colleagues in the food industry - and I have decided that, minus the dozen or more people I normally cook for, I am going to manufacture a blast of midwinter sunshine. On a plate, anyway… In other words, I am going to have fun barbecuing my way right through the midwinter holiday period. And that will include cooking almost the entire Christmas dinner outdoors - come rain or come shine… And why not? Most people who have some kind of barbecue nowadays will have one that has a lid, which means it’s only you who’s going to get wet in the rain - not the food. Indeed, more and more people are going the whole BBQ hog by owning a Japanese style kamado, which allows the home-chef to turn out slow-cooked wonders of the kind that would make any barbecue master proud - including a whole turkey. For the past half dozen years, when cooking a bird the size of a small jumbo-jet, I have slow-cooked the big tough turkey legs on my kamado - and that has given me the opportunity to add a fabulous savoury smokiness to the flavour, thanks to my friends at the Devon-based company Hot Smoked. Indeed, one of their new wood-chip kits makes an ideal present for the person who loves cooking outdoors or over a live flame (www.hotsmoked.co.uk). “Some meat can be a little bland, but hot-smoking really does increase the flavour considerably,” says Alyson Murray of Hot Smoked. “It’s easy to do - there’s no real mystery to it - you put some of our specialist wood-chips into a steel container or a double wrapping of foil (with a few holes - which help protects the wood chips so they don’t burn away too fast) and place it on the hot coals. “The lid on a kamado or any other type of good barbecue will help keep the smoke in and your food will quickly take on the subtle flavours dictated by the type of wood.” I tend to use Hot Smoked’s whisky soaked oak chips, which produce such a fantastic flavour there’s always a queue for the brown leg meat of my turkey. Before I smoked the legs of our annual Christmas bird, the queue used to go straight for the breast meat, but not any longer. “There’s nothing like a winter barbecue to blow away the lockdown blues,” Devon based outdoor cooking expert Marcus Bawden told me this week. “Your favourite restaurant might be closed, but you can easily grill up a tasty steak, a warming chilli, Sunday barbecue roast or even your big festive feast - all cooked outdoors.” Marcus teaches people to “barbecue better” at his specialist school, near Cullompton (www.ukbbqschool.com) and is an author of the best selling book Food and Fire and his next book Skewered will be out in April - and he told me: “Don’t lock yourself indoors this lockdown or at Christmas - wrap up warm and get yourself cooking up a storm. “I have been cooking my Christmas turkey on the barbecue for the last 10 years, and it's hard to beat for flavour when cooked in a Kamado Joe, you get a wonderfully crisp skin as a bonus.” Talking of Kamado Joe (www.kamadojoe.co.uk) - the European marketing manager for the brand is also based in Devon - and Ben Forte commented: “What better way to please the crowd this Christmas than with a show-stopping BBQ’d turkey taking centre stage? Obviously I use a Kamado Joe and have done so for years. It is highly versatile. You really can cook anything on them - you can grill, bake, roast, sear, smoke - and it even works perfectly as a pizza oven or rotisserie. “Then there’s the question of efficiency - the thick ceramic walls retain so much heat that you need to use less fuel to keep it hot.” Ben’s quick-fire tips for cooking a successful turkey this Christmas are… “Cook to temperature not time. The meats needs to be 75C. Add a bacon weave. This helps the breast meat stay moist and you get a bonus bit of crispy bacon. “Take your turkey out of the fridge half an hour before you start cooking - it’ll help prevent shrinkage. Cook the veg below the turkey so it catches all those juices as it cooks. Try adding a chunk of fruit wood, such as apple or cherry.” Lastly, you might ask why I’ll be doing down the barbecue route this Christmas? Well, apart from adding the sunshine flavours normally associated with summer to my midwinter meals, it will be fun to experiment. I’ve also found an excellent supply of local charcoal here on Exmoor - the Avalon BBQ Charcoal product is as good as it gets - they don’t have a website so phone 01398 323590 or 07908 939645 if you wan’t some… Normally, with 14 or 15 people to feed, I’d dare not experiment. This year my caution is going up in flames… OR... Why not consider the idea of hiring a BBQ chef for special days, family gatherings, etc. There are specialist hiring companies and all their chefs provide all the equipment, ingredients, and do the serving. A friend of mine did this recently and he told me: "Personally, I love hiring a chef for celebrations, especially when we stage a big celebratory BBQ. Why? Because I get really invested into the process, I want it to be perfect, and end up standing in front of the grill most of the time. I hired a chef for my little one's birthday and I ended up spending much more time with friends and loved that..." RECIPES Ben Forte’s BBQ “Jingleburger” - a turkey and smokey bacon burger, with Brussel sprout slaw, oak-smoked cheddar, pancetta weave, cranberry sauce and topped with a pickle and pigs in blankets. Burger Ingredients 500g Turkey Thigh Mince 4 rashers of Smoked Bacon (finely diced) 1 Egg Bacon flavour crisps (I used popcorn crisps as they are gluten free) (crushed) Brussel Slaw 250g Brussel Sprouts 2 Carrots 1 tbsp Balsamic Vinegar 4 tbsp South Carolina BBQ Sauce Other Bits Oak Smoked Cheddar 16 rashers of pancetta/streaky bacon Cranberry Sauce Pigs in blankets Pickles Brioche Buns 4 Wooden Skewers Method Combine all burger ingredients together then shape using yours hand or a burger press Finely grate sprouts and carrots, combine in a bowl and add vinegar and BBQ Sauce For the bacon weaves I use 4 rashers of pancetta cut in half and stretched out. This makes them the perfect size for the burger Now smoke your burgers in your BBQ at around 225F until they reach an internal temp of 165F. Put bacon weaves onto foil and place in the BBQ until they are crispy - and BBQ pigs in blankets Put burgers onto a hot skillet and cook for a few minutes each side, then add cheese to the top and cover for about 1 minute to melt the cheese Lastly build your Christmas burger layering the parts and securing the pig in blanket with the help of a skewer. Hot Smoked’s Spatchcocked Duck Whole duck (Creedy Carver) Olive oil Garlic Piri Piri spice rub Whisky oak chips Spatchcock the duck, score drumsticks, season with salt and pepper, then add a mix of olive oil and Piri Piri Spice plus thin garlic slices. Allow to reach room temperature. Meanwhile light your bbq or smoker and wait until it goes white hot and any open flame has subsided. Your target cooking temperature is 110 to 120 deg for 2 to 3 hours depending on the weight of the duck. Add a handful of whisky oak chips to a foil pouch or smoker box if using one and place on the greying embers. Place the duck on the grill rack, close the lid and leave to cook slowly. Remove from the smoker and crisp the skin under a grill (on a medium heat). Allow to rest before serving

The wind was howling and the rain was falling in icy sheets as I lit the barbecue one afternoon this week. Was it bloody-mindedness on my part? Am I so stubborn that I’ll do daft things despite all odds? Did I feel like King Canute, defying nature to do its worst? Not really. Our humble cottage has an area for outdoor cooking which, although open to the elements, has a large and waterproof roof. And because my wonderful Kamado Joe barbecue has a closable domed lid, no weather can actually reach the flames or the food inside. Defying the English Weather BBQ guru Marcus Bawdon is never put off by the cold Having said that, I admit to having a degree of bloody-mindedness. Why should the awful English weather throw a bucket of cold water over everything we want to do? Yes, wall-to-wall rain can ruin just about every pursuit outdoors. Even the best-equipped hiker can have a miserable time if they can’t see anything but stair-rods. However, the real joy of barbecuing is in the eating, and you can do that indoors. But why bother going through all the faff? It’s a lot of fuss when you have a perfectly serviceable oven and a hob right there in the comfort of your kitchen. Of course, there's always the other way - you could hire a specialist barbecue chef for special days, family gatherings, etc. A friend of mine did this recently and some specialist chef-hiring companies provide all the equipment, ingredients, and do the serving. My pal said: "Personally, I love hiring a chef for special celebrations, and for a BBQ it's a particularly good idea. Why? Because when I do it I get really invested into the process, I want it to be perfect, and end up standing in front of the grill most of the time. But I hired a chef for my little one's birthday and I ended up spending much more time with friends and loved that." The Secret to Better Flavour: The Maillard Reaction The answer is simple: flavour. Cooking over a live flame—as I’ve said many times before in these pages—is far superior to anything heated on a hob or in a fan-assisted oven. Not only does smoke from wood or charcoal impart extra flavour, but the dripping fats play their part too. As they sizzle, they help drive that all-important Maillard reaction—the magical point where proteins and sugars are superheated to create a savoury, browned crust. It’s this explosion of umami that elevates something simple into something fabulous. Proper BBQ beef - Maillard reaction included Cooking the Perfect Pork Loin Cooking outdoors over charcoal in a device like a kamado also has another upside: texture and succulence. The reason I was so determined to light up this weekend, despite the terrible weather, was that the family were coming around and I had purchased a large pork-loin joint. It’s a good and generous cut of meat BUT it is one that can easily dry out. Even though it has a thin layer of fat, that is often not enough to give the meat the unctuousness you want. You can end up with a rather flavourless texture that seems to suck at your teeth as you chew. That does not tend to happen if pork-loin is slow-cooked in a kamado. The device’s “stone walls” lock in the moisture; indeed, the domed lid pushes the smoky steam back down onto the meat. The consistent results even an idiot like me can achieve force me to believe the theory. Sue Stoneman's ox cheeks cooking slowly over flames Pro Tip: My pork loin was aided and abetted by layers of sliced apple and onion which the joint sat on while it cooked. This “edible trivet” broke down after an hour or two but didn’t burn thanks to a stone heat-deflector. This created the base for a thick, rich, and delicious sauce. Memories of Greece: Lamb and Tzatziki A couple of weeks ago I used the same system to cook a leg of English lamb, which I’d de-boned. In the kamado, I splay out the meat on a large cast iron skillet, rub it generously with sea salt, garlic, grated lemon rind, and rosemary and sage from the garden. After a couple of hours of charcoal-induced heat conversion, it is transformed into one of my favourite meat dishes in the world. It takes me right back to my days of living on a Greek mountainside almost 50 years ago. I always make a garlicky tzatziki (Greek yoghurt, extra virgin olive oil, mint, sea-salt, and cucumber) to go with it. Devon based BBQ Queen Sue Stoneman cooking outdoors in winter Expert Advice: The West Country Barbecue Pros Sue Stoneman’s Winter Warming Tips “Cooking outdoors on the BBQ in winter? Of course!” says Devon’s Sue Stoneman. “Wrap up warm, and while you’re lighting up, pop on a pan of your favourite local cider—in my case, Sandford Orchards Devon Red.” Sue suggests using the barbecue as an outdoor oven to save money and time: Batch Cooking: Use cheaper cuts like ox cheeks for ragu or chilli. Multi-tasking: While the meat roasts, put in jacket potatoes, a loaf of bread, or even a cake. The Experience: "There’s the fun of being outside—star-gazing on clear nights while the smells of delicious food waft around." Sue’s Rich Ox Cheek Ragu Recipe Ingredients: 3 large ox cheeks, celery, onions, carrots, garlic, 200g smoked pancetta, 300g chestnut mushrooms, 200ml red wine, 1l beef stock, passata, and tinned tomatoes. Method: Season cheeks (Sue uses Angus & Oink Black Gold). Fry pancetta and veg in a heavy-based lid pan over direct heat. Add liquids and mushrooms, then slow-cook until the beef is tender. Follow Sue on Instagram @sue_stoneman. Sue Stoneman's ox cheek ragu and pasta Marcus Bawdon: Embracing the Cold Marcus runs the UK BBQ School in Mid-Devon and is the author of four books on outdoor cooking. Marcus at the UK BBQ School “Getting out in the cold—in snow or storm—means I need to be on point with the heat control,” Marcus says. “But it’s my favourite time of year to barbecue! There's something about hugging a warm ceramic kamado, knowing you have a smoky venison chilli or casserole tucked inside.” Marcus’s Top Winter Tips: More Fuel: Use more charcoal than usual to combat the ambient cold. Stay Dry: Ensure charcoal is kept indoors; damp fuel is a nightmare to light. Lid Down: Use the air vents to control temperature rather than opening the lid. Tech Help: A wireless temperature probe allows you to monitor the food from the warmth of your kitchen. Visit Marcus at www.ukbbqschool.com.

The wonderful Asimina Suites Hotel in Paphos It’s funny how a single word or a name can conjure all manner of instant thoughts, which is particularly relevant in the world of leisure because those instantaneous ideas can have a massive influence. Is Cyprus Really Safe for British Tourists? Think about foreign holidays, for example, and then add the name of a well known location. Cyprus has for a long time been a hugely popular destination with UK tourists, but point to that island today and you might well see a person’s face cloud with doubt because of the war with Iran. But there has only been one confirmed direct hit and that was on a military base in early March. Yet advance reservations for the peak summer season are down by nearly 60 percent according to some industry reports. Fishing boat at Pomos, in north western Cyprus Well, I went to Cyprus a week ago and can report that no one is walking about in fear, there are no air-raid warning sirens, and people in the western part of the island feel as isolated and distant from war as we do here in the West Country. There was one hit from a rogue drone in early March that put a small hole in the side of an RAF building, but it occurred on the third biggest island in the Mediterranean! Cyprus is huge. There’s a sizeable mountain range and vast valleys and plains between Paphos and the Easter shores. And there has been no direct threat since. The small harbour at Pomos, in north western Cyprus What It Feels Like to Visit Cyprus in 2026 Did I feel safe during my six days on the isle? Absolutely. Safer than I’d feel in many places I’ve visited down the years. Not only did I feel safe, but I was extremely comfortable - because Cyprus is one of those Mediterranean destinations that’s been hosting visitors for so long, they’ve honed their Greek-style hospitality down to an art-form. Moreover, I was staying in one of Paphos’s most luxurious five star hotels. Returning to Paphos After Three Decades I was there for a convention organised by the British Guild of Travel Writers and I’d been looking forward to the trip, as it has been 32 long years since I last visited. A great deal has changed. For a start, back in those days most roads north of the town or inland were not much more than dirt tracks. That is very much not the case now. The old fort at Paphos Harbour How Paphos Has Changed: Ancient History Meets Smart Tourism Paphos has been moving with the times. Yes, there are still ancient ruins with Roman mosaics and UNESCO-listed tombs - and they still sit just a short distance from the historic harbour which still feels like the heart of the town. But the place has grown and has redesigned itself to become a tourist Mecca with the aim of making life easy, comfortable and enjoyable for the many thousands of northern Europeans (mainly British) who visit. In some ways Cyprus is a Greek form of little England. Because of our lengthy historic connections with the island there is a sense of Britishness everywhere you go - not in an overwhelming way - I’m not talking about Union Jacks, fish-n-chips, or English-style pubs, but in a rather comforting, underlying sense. An old olive press in the mountains above Paphos Why Cyprus Still Feels Comfortable for British Visitors For example, they drive on the same side of the road. They use the same three-pin plugs. Just about every local you meet will be fluent in English. I’m pointing all this out to underline not only the safety and security angle, but also that comfortable sense of knowing what’s what. They’ve hit a nice balance, especially for older tourists. You have no doubt that you’re somewhere very foreign indeed - there’s all that wondrous Greek-style food, those warm seas, coasts filled with ancient history and scenic mountains dotted with quaint and rustic villages. Fabulous. A great place in which to explore. The Constantinou Brothers and a Different Kind of Cyprus Holiday But then there’s that polished hospitality - and no one in Cyprus is better at it than the Constantinou Brothers. I refer to a well known family-run outfit, founded by the family of that name in the late 1970s. The Constantinou presence in the Paphos area is impressive, they have four major properties, but what sets them apart is their focus on the adult market. They’ve moved away from the noisy, family-resort model, opting instead for a quieter, more refined style of hospitality. It’s an approach that suits the Paphos temperament well - all about good food, unhurried service, and a rather welcome level of calm. Review: Asimina Suites Hotel, Paphos We were staying at the newly revamped Asimina Suites Hotel - a five-star, all-suite property that has just undergone a significant six-month revamp. It reopened just this month with new top-floor sea-view suites that offer the kind of uninterrupted Mediterranean views you’d expect. There’s also a new rooftop bar where you can enjoy sundowners along with other new bars and restaurant areas. Food at Asimina Suites: Better Than Expected Talking of which, let’s mention that food. All those years ago when I was last in Paphos with two small children, you did everything you could to get out of the seaside hotels into the towns and villages so you could escape the mass-produced package-tour offering and enjoy good local dishes - even if it meant driving along dirt roads. The roads are now paved but there’s no need to move an inch. I’d go as far as to say the Asimina Suites has some of the best large-seaside-hotel food I’ve enjoyed anywhere. If it wasn’t for my sense of adventure and need to get out and explore, I’d have happily dined there night and day for a week. There’s a superb buffet and also a lovely a la carte restaurant just above the beach. As I will be writing about the amazing food of Cyprus next week I’ll skip any more mention of it here. Suffice to say, I must have returned home a stone heavier. An Adults-Only Escape on the Cyprus Coast That might be because I did a lot of lolling about. The hotel is an adults-only haven - the sort of place where you can take a morning swim in the interconnected pools, wander through gardens to the beach, or spend an hour in the spa. A place without the usual holiday clamour. For a journalist looking to relax after the trauma of his car breaking down on the way to the airport, it certainly hit the mark. Our breakfast spread at the Asimina Suites Hotel, Paphos Exploring Paphos on Foot There’s a wonderful pedestrian promenade that takes you all the way from the Asimina Suites up along the coast to the old harbour area - and that is the main way in which I attempted to keep down those pounds and ounces. It’s a pleasant half hour stroll past all the hotels until you reach the busy hub of lower Paphos. The town is split between the old quarter which is situated right up on the hill and coastal, or “Kato” (lower) Paphos - and, as I said earlier, it has successfully redesigned itself to being what’s known in the trade as a ‘smart tourism’ hub. It somehow manages to blend its rich history with a sophisticated modern infrastructure. Roman Mosaics, Tombs and Ancient Paphos, Cyprus The Kato Paphos Archaeological Park remains the big draw for those interested in the past. Here, the impressively preserved Roman mosaics of the House of Dionysos offer a kind of masterclass in ancient storytelling. Nearby, the Tombs of the Kings - monolithic chambers carved directly into the bedrock - provide a stark, silent contrast to the bustling harbour just a mile away. The Tombs of the Kings at Paphos What Happened to the Old Paphos Market? It was up in the “Old Town” that I was to get my biggest surprise. I recall taking my kids up there in a hire car to visit a busy crazily hot market, where donkeys and mules lined the un-paved streets and fish-stalls stood next to purveyors of local meat. I loved it and rather mourn its passing. Very little of that remains. A massive multi-million-euro regeneration project, launched when Paphos became a European Capital of Culture, was designed to “strip away the grit to reveal a neoclassical gem”. The revitalisation transformed Kennedy Square into a sophisticated urban hub, while once-dilapidated landmarks like Ibrahim’s Khan have been reimagined as cultural centres for local artisans. Pedestrianised streets now lead to the renovated municipal market, where traditional leatherwork meets modern boutiques - without a local vegetable, or a fish, or a hunk of meat in sight. Yes, I know, it has to be done. I imagine the old market would be a modern food safety expert’s nightmare - and the blend of ‘smart city’ tech with historic preservation does work. But I missed the colour and the frantic buzz of the old place. A gin tasting session at the new rooftop bar Asimina Suites Hotel North of Paphos: Discovering Polis, Latchi and the Akamas Peninsula For the traveller willing to trade the resort bustle for a tank of petrol, the drive north to Polis Chrysochous is a revelation. Leaving Paphos behind, the road climbs through hills before dropping toward a coastline that feels remarkably untouched by the hand of modern development. The appeal here is the Akamas Peninsula, a rugged wilderness where the paved roads eventually give way to dust and juniper. Here you’ll find the Baths of Aphrodite, where cool freshwater springs meet the sea, and the nearby Smigies Nature Trail, offering panoramic views across the great curve of the bay. Polis itself retains the sleepy, authentic rhythm of a traditional Cypriot town. Just along the road lies Latchi, a small harbour where the catch of the day goes straight from boats to the grill. The Polis Bay area is the island’s quiet secret - uncluttered, breezy, and calm. We went almost all the way to the border with the Turkish part of Cyprus to a little harbour in the Pomos area, it was a gem with a fantastic bar full of locals. We were the only foreign tourists there. After we found a little beauty spot known as the Dragon’s Cave - and couldn’t image that anyone from the crowds of Paphos had ever been near the place. The Dragon's Cave on Cyprus north western coast Returning to Luxury After Exploring Wild Cyprus Even so, it meant a long day out for me and one of my travel-writer mates, and we were both glad to be back in the luxurious confines of the Asimina Suites Hotel that evening where a large cool suite and a welcome glass of quality wine awaited. Booking Information and Flight Options to Cyprus The BGTW were guests of Constantinou Bros Asimina Suites Hotel and the Paphos Tourist Board. Prices from only £1399 per person for 2 people sharing a Junior Suite Land View on bed and breakfast in the Asimina Suites Hotel, for Gatwick departures for 7 nights in June and includes 22 Kg luggage allowance and private transfers - available through Jet2Holidays www.jet2holidays.com Website: https://www.Asimina-CBH.com/UK sales office 01924 380 160 The Constantinou Bros Hotel Collection also includes Athena Royal Beach Hotel, Pioneer Beach Hotel and the family friendly Athena Beach Hotel, all located along the Paphos shoreline. Flights to Paphos are available from a wide choice of UK airports with Jet2. Jet2 has a new flight from Gatwick and regular flights from many regional airports. FAQs Q: Is Cyprus safe to visit right now? A: Tourist areas such as Paphos remain calm and many visitors report feeling extremely safe despite wider regional tensions. Q: What are the best places to visit near Paphos? A: Polis, Latchi, the Akamas Peninsula, Baths of Aphrodite and Kato Paphos Archaeological Park are all worth exploring. Q: Is Paphos suitable for older travellers? A: Yes. English is widely spoken, infrastructure is modern and many hotels focus on comfort and quieter experiences. Q: What is Asimina Suites Hotel like? A: It is an adults-only five-star all-suite hotel offering sea views, pools, spa facilities and multiple dining options. Q: Can you explore authentic Cyprus away from resorts? A: Yes. Areas north of Paphos around Polis and Pomos offer quieter and more traditional experiences. A village baker in the mountains above Paphos I’ve recently launched a Substack - https://martinhesp.substack.com/ - featuring new travel writing, old columns and observations from life on the road. If you’ve enjoyed this piece, you can find more there — and perhaps even support the venture if the mood takes you.

Monty the lurcher at Buckland Beacon Editors, publishers, bank managers - to hell with the lot of them, said I, casting my diary to the wind and heading for the hills. The recent re-opening of Dartmoor, or at least 60 percent of it, offered a promise of mountain air and panoramic views, and without more ado I shoved all my other engagements to one side. I wasn't the only one. I have never seen Dartmoor so packed on a weekday afternoon. School kids were orienteering, old folk were sipping tea in lay-bys, mountain-bikers were doing wheelies, bird-watchers were hot on the trail of wheatears, and me, along with a thousand or two others of his ilk, was hiking. Where to Walk on Dartmoor: South and East Moor Options But where to roam? You are more than spoilt for choice among the hills and dales of south and eastern Dartmoor. "Ever been to Buckland Beacon?" said a communications officer for the National Park Authority. "It has one of the best views in Devon and there's a great walk to it from Haytor." He had been showing me detailed maps of the newly re-opened footpaths at the National Park's HQ near Bovey Tracey, so it was just a five minute drive up the hill to the beginning of his proposed hike. However, at Haytor the giant rocks seemed as if they were about to sink under the weight of human-kind, so I drove on to neighbouring Saddle Tor to begin the four mile stroll. Haytor Rocks Route Guide: Saddle Tor to Buckland Beacon Walk Basically the walk takes you west to Top Tor and then south through Foale's Arrishes across Blackslade Down and over Buckland Common until you reach the Beacon and its Ten Commandment Rocks. More about them later, but first I'll quickly mention that the most desirable return route crosses Rippon Tor; however I cannot recommend you go that way because it traverses non-access land grazed by stock and so the farmer might, understandably at the present time, be unhappy at the sight of troops of Express and Echo readers hauling their way across the hill. There is a path though, and once the threat of foot and mouth is finally laid to rest then Rippon Tor takes you directly back from whence you came and so completes a superb circular walk. Haytor Rocks We returned the way we came, which was all right as there is much to see and admire up here on the roof of the world. Saddle Tor and Top Tor: Dramatic Views and Logan Stones Saddle Tor is an easy pile to climb and doesn't look particularly spectacular as you ascend from the road. But once you're up there you realise that its northern aspect is far more dramatic - its lofty ramparts fall quickly away to reveal a massive sweeping panorama of the central moors. IF you are enjoying this Dartmoor walk why not check out our Exmoor hikes here It's an "avenue tor" which means that the rocks are split into two separate stacks. You can walk between these towards what the map calls Seven Lords Lands. Who the seven lords were I have no idea and can find no mention of them in my extensive library of books on Dartmoor. Looking west at our walking route from Haytor Beyond, across the Widecombe road is Top Tor which sounds as if it should be up there among the big stacks, but is in fact a modest molehill compared with some of its neighbours. It's known locally as 'Tapter' and is a somewhat fragmented pile. Among the rocks is a 'logan-stone' - there are several of these on the moor: great rocks left to stand on just one pivotal point after erosion has taken away the surrounding soil. Foale’s Arrishes and Dartmoor Legends A quarter of a mile due south is Pil Tor and directly beyond are Foale's Arrishes. Who was Foale, and what is an arrish? You may ask... I did and could only find that a man called Foale used to empound his animals up here in the walled remains of an ancient Iron Age farmstead. As usual, good old William Crossing, Dartmoor's premier chronicler, saved me from further ignorance in the matter with a yarn which I, in turn, shall pass on to you: "It was at Foale's Arrishes that a certain villager once decided to settle," says Crossing in his Guide to Dartmoor. "And though his neighbours tried to persuade him to remain where he was, he set out one day with the avowed intention of erecting a shelter on the spot, and passing his remaining days there. "But like Cyrus, who, as Persian legends say, having gone into retirement, suddenly disappeared, the labourer was never seen again. Whether he was spirited away by the pixies, or fell prey to the Evil One, who is said to take an airing occasionally on Tor Hill, on the slope of which the Arrishes are situated, nobody could say; all that was certain was that the neighbourhood knew him no more." Buckland Beacon: Views, History and the Ten Commandments Stones With a shudder we passed the forlorn looking Arrishes and headed for William's Well which is a small stream that rises just under Wittaburrow. Beyond is the tiny road that leads west towards the great Dart valley complex of combes, and this we crossed to gain Buckland Common. The Ten Commandments at Buckland Beacon This is a great south pointing peninsula of hill that cleaves its way into the Dart valley and affords fine views every step of the way. There are plenty of level tracks to follow and they all lead to Buckland Beacon which dominates the southern tip of the common. "This small group of rocks attains an elevation of 1,282 feet," says Crossing, "and though presenting nothing striking in itself, should by all means be visited on account of the particularly fine views commanded from it." Crossing then goes on at length to detail all the points of the compass that you can survey from this lofty height - but suffice to say that you can see as far east as Beer Head beyond Sidmouth, and as far south as Bolt Head, just south of Salcombe. This is Big Country Devon-style, and the wooded twistings and turnings of the Dart far below only accentuate the vastness of the scene. Ten Commandments set in stone at Buckland Beacon As its name suggests, Buckland Beacon was used as a signal point for centuries and standing on its ramparts it is easy to imagine the somewhat awesome foreboding which would result from lighting a fire up here. A French invasion perhaps or maybe the Spanish fleet... Whatever the threat you might find yourself turning to God - and at Buckland Beacon that is easy to do thanks to the Ten Commandments which have been hewn into two massive stones just below the tor. Why lord of the manor William Whitely paid for these two slabs to be so marked back in 1928 I am not altogether sure - but I am told the stone mason who did the deed had to spend many months in this draughty spot carving out the strictures. He even lived next to the job in a temporary hut, but certainly one can think of far worse places to eke a daily crust. Whoever he was, he did a fine job and, suitably sobered, we turned north to retrace our steps across the moor with all those Thou Shalt Not's ringing in our ears. It must have been several hours before I broke one, but that's another story... looking downhill from Buckland Beacon Dartmoor Walk Fact File Basic Hike: From Saddle Tor to Buckland Beacon via Top Tor and Foale's Arrishes. Recommended Map: Ordnance Survey Outdoor Leisure 28 Distance and going: four miles easy going, fairly level throughout. FAQ Content: Is the Saddle Tor to Buckland Beacon walk easy? Yes, it’s around four miles and mostly level, suitable for most walkers with basic fitness. Where do you start the walk? Most people begin near Saddle Tor, especially when Haytor is busy. Can you walk a circular route? Yes, via Rippon Tor, but only when access restrictions allow. What are the Ten Commandments stones? Large carved stones near Buckland Beacon, commissioned in 1928 and engraved with biblical commandments. When is the best time to visit Dartmoor? Spring and autumn offer the best balance of weather, light, and fewer crowds.

Foragers on a Devon estuary A Salad Transformed by the Garden One day this week, returning from a supermarket with a couple of lettuces, a cucumber, some tomatoes and a bag of watercress, I wandered into our somewhat neglected garden and picked wild garlic, parsley, spinach and mint. And my goodness, didn’t they improve that evening’s salad! The quick forage lifted our bowl of healthy delights from being a fairly plain affair to the kind of salad we were eating in those fancy French Michelin restaurant’s I was writing about recently. And the upgrade was free. Which is a welcome thing in a world where a basic cucumber in a cut-price supermarket now costs £1. Wow! A quid for a cuke! If it wasn’t here before, the time has definitely arrived when we need to box clever when it comes to the things we put on the table. Just a couple of minutes picking and one minute’s chopping, and job done. Quick, simple and delicious. It’s just a matter of getting into the habit and going the extra mile - or, in my case, the extra 20 metres. Spring in the West Country represents a sudden and very welcome greening of the larder. For over 20 years I’ve been writing about seasonal delights in this newspaper and this week I’ve been looking back over some of the foodie articles I have penned in April, May and June. Here’s the pick of the bunch… The Squeak of the Spear (Fresh English Asparagus) You do not need me to tell you that fresh asparagus represents one of the crowning glories of the English food year. Grab it while you can, is the motto. No other vegetable offers quite such a bang for your bucks. It might not be the cheapest item at the greengrocer’s, but it does offer good value for money if you value flavour over weight. “Don’t buy asparagus unless you can hear it squeak,” I was told by one Somerset asparagus farmer. “That’s the best way to tell if it’s fresh. With the best will in the world, the stuff from places like Spain cannot be as fresh as this.” The spears from his fields did indeed squeak with freshness, having been picked just an hour or so before. And a little bit goes a long way, especially if you ignore the usual advice and utilise those lower stalks people normally throw in the compost. A modern high-powered blender will knock seven bells out of those woody ends and you can use the resultant puree to flavour stocks for soups or risottos. The important thing is to pass the finished slow-cooked stock through a fine sieve to extract any fibrous bits. With asparagus, best to keep things simple. Why would you want to add anything else? All I add is butter and maybe just a little pepper and salt with the tiniest squeeze of lemon. If I’m just spoiling myself and my wife, I’ll go for a plain bowl of the stuff - no cutlery, just fingers and a glass of dry but fruity white wine. Perhaps the most simple way to prepare asparagus it is to put it into a roasting tin, pour a little olive oil over it with a sprinkle of coarse sea salt. Shake and roast for a few minutes, depending on the thickness - and prepare yourself for one of those sensual experiences which make life worth living. Deliciously Dirty: The Cornish Early (New Potatoes) If the South West is the first place in Britain in which you can buy a fresh picked strawberry, then the west of Cornwall is the place for the finest new potatoes to be found in mainland Britain. Cornwall’s mild climate and the influence of the Gulf Stream make the western part of the county particularly suitable for growing the mainland’s first new potatoes of the season, which most locals would swear are infinitely superior to any imported spuds. To test if a potato is a genuine Cornish Early, gently rub the skin with a fingernail - it should rub off easily. Many so-called new potatoes on sale in shops are imposters - either grown in countries like Egypt, Israel, or Cyprus, then kept in cold storage. The Cornish Early is sold dirty and unwashed to protect its delicate skin and texture. As a farmer called Jeff Thomas once said to me while standing in a field with a view of Land’s End: “Get some new Cornish potatoes with a bit of Cornish butter, salt, pepper and a bit of mint… Magic. It’s like eating truffles.” The field where Jeff Thomas said those words was on the top of these cliffs Hedgerow Bounty (Wild Garlic and Spring Foraging) Chief among pickable and delicious things to eat in the hedgerows right now is wild garlic, or ramsons. In fact, we’re overrun with the stuff here in Exmoor’s eastern valleys. This pungent plant will have unfurled its single flower stalk by now, which means it’s the ideal time to pick both the leaves and the petals before everything turns brown. A quick 20-minute walk in my valley can easily supply me with enough wild greenery to make all manner of delicious dishes. Picking wild garlic on Exmoor Wild garlic makes a superb form of pesto. Basically, what you need is a fistful of herbs, a smaller amount of nuts, some hard cheese, and a squeeze of lemon juice. Within seconds you will have a small cupful of the closest your garden will ever get to producing rocket-fuel - at least, in the flavour stakes. Read more about Wild Garlic here Glint of Green on the Slab (Samphire and Coastal Foraging) There was a glint of green in the fishmongers’. That was all it took for me to do a double take while wandering through Lyme Regis one day. When you see the colour green lurking on a fishmonger’s slab, it probably means the shopkeeper is selling samphire. Samphire growing wild in West Country saltings This is marsh samphire, sometimes known as glasswort. When you see it sprouting around estuaries in the wild, it looks a bit like a miniature desert cacti, and it is delicious. It’s almost impossible to describe its flavour and texture. The closest I can get is - a bit like salty asparagus served in a crunchy jelly that has bite. Be warned: it often grows in protected areas, but if you very carefully snip the very tips off with a pair of scissors all your are doing is emulating the chomping action of a salt-march sheep. You won’t be doing ay harm and you do not need much - fill an empty crisps bag and you’ll have enough. Freshly steamed samphire tips You can also find plenty of rock samphire growing around West Country sea-cliffs and it is equally tasty, but I prefer to pickle that particular delicacy. Read an article dedicated to estuary foraging here Whether you pick or buy samphire, you must wash it, making sure any sand is cleaned away. I then steam it briefly - for a minute or two - before tossing in a bowl with butter, black pepper and several squeezes of lemon. You will not need any salt, because samphire comes ready-salted. If you really want to impress your friends, flash-fry fillets of West Country sea-bass, mackerel or red mullet and place them artistically upon a pile of the peppered and lemony samphire. The Al-Fresco Revival (Spring Picnics and Outdoor Dining) It’s a strange thought, but we are not so many dawns away from Midsummer Day. In the mind of your average foodie, this can translate to what is potentially the best meal in the world… The humble picnic. I’ve written about dining al fresco on many occasions, but for me the most memorable was a picnic I enjoyed in an old sand-quarry in the heart of Provence. The very quarry, indeed, where they used to get the sand for making the iconic green Perrier water bottles. It was hot, the food was delicious, the rose wine was perfect, and the company was wonderful. The sort of day you remember for decades. Memorable picnic in a sand quarry in Provence I know a few people who do not relish a picnic, but not many. There is something magical about sitting on the ground in the middle of nature consuming food that has, more-or-less, already been prepared. Read more about picnics here You can’t go wrong if you look towards the Mediterranean. A fantastic dip to go with crisp French bread is one made from pureed roast vegetables - aubergines, red and green peppers, and sweet white onions blended with olive oil and a handful of fresh herbs. In Provence, there’s a classic shepherd’s snack which consists of a baguette that has been stuffed with ripe tomatoes, herbs, garlic, onion and peppers all soaked in local olive oil. The whole thing is wrapped in foil and preferably pressed under a heavy weight for a few hours to produce a tube of crunchy gooey deliciousness. The Passing Scent of the Seasons (Why Seasonal Food Still Matters) Imagine taking a boat ride especially to smell a sweet and lovely fragrance... That sentence takes me to another set of articles written down the years. A century ago, so much soft fruit was grown in the Torridge valley that springtime excursions would ply up and down from Bideford so that happy punters could become intoxicated by the scent of strawberries wafting heavy on the breeze. Exactly the same thing used to happen on the Tamar, both in strawberry and in cherry season. Cotehele Quay on the Tamar used to play host to fruit boats and pleasure steamers Now we import irradiated strawberries 12 months of the year and the Torridge and Tamar are, for the most part, scentless. But let us not bemoan the passing of yesteryear - instead let’s rejoice in the seasonal food that still lurks beyond our hedgerows waiting to be picked, plucked, gleaned, caught, harvested and cured. Whether it’s the first leaves of spinach adorning a health-giving daily salad, or a sea-bass grilled and served on a bed of young sorrel, these ingredients provide all that is best when it comes to the sublime taste of spring. For those of us willing to get our boots muddy or visit a local farm shop, the rewards are immense. It’s a matter of buy now while you can. Nothing is more guaranteed to pep up your cooking than the fabulous fresh ingredients that are becoming increasingly available across Southern Britain. IF YOU ARE ENJOYING THIS ARTICLE CHECK OUT https://www.martinhespfoodandtravel.com/post/foraging-wild-food-in-estuaries Rock samphire - also edible, especially when pickled Frequently Asked Questions About Spring Foraging in the West Country What can you forage in the West Country in spring? In spring, the West Country offers a rich variety of wild foods including wild garlic (ramsons), young nettles, sorrel, and early herbs such as parsley and mint. Coastal areas also provide samphire later in the season. Is wild garlic safe to eat? Yes, wild garlic is safe and delicious, but it must be correctly identified. It has a strong garlic smell when crushed. Avoid confusing it with similar-looking plants like lily of the valley, which are poisonous. When is English asparagus in season? English asparagus is typically in season from late April to June. It is best enjoyed fresh and locally grown, as flavour declines quickly after picking. What are Cornish new potatoes? Cornish new potatoes are early-season potatoes grown in Cornwall’s mild climate. They are usually sold unwashed (“dirty”) to preserve their delicate skins and flavour. What does samphire taste like? Samphire has a unique flavour often described as salty, fresh, and slightly like asparagus with a crisp texture. It pairs particularly well with fish. Do you need permission to forage in the UK? Yes. You can forage small amounts for personal use on public land where permitted, but you must always respect local regulations and avoid protected areas. How do you prepare wild garlic? Wild garlic can be eaten raw in salads, blended into pesto, or lightly cooked in soups, risottos, and sauces. Both the leaves and flowers are edible. What is the best way to cook asparagus? The best way is to keep it simple: lightly steam, roast, or pan-cook with butter, olive oil, salt, pepper, and a squeeze of lemon.

From Journalism to Fiction: The Origins of The Cornish Snapper A world-weary journalist suddenly finds himself working with a young female photographer. No big deal, but the thing is she turns out to be a genius when it comes to noticing tiny clues and solving mysteries. And there, in essence, is the theme of my new series of novels. The aging hack is Watson to the young woman’s Sherlock Holmes. Why am I telling you this, apart from my bid to get a cheeky advert for a newly published book? Well, because if you read this newspaper then you are probably interested in the scenic and engaging world that is our region - and you may even be interested in how we journalists get to tell its story. The Cornish Snapper: The Granite Mystery, is set in 2002 and in order to write it I looked back at my many travels as a feature writer nosing my way around the South West, and I also recalled the endless adventures I had with professional newspaper photographers (sometimes known as ‘snappers’). A Crime Story Rooted in Real Experience The name Richard Austin will be remembered by readers because he was a truly brilliant press photographer and many of the images he snapped over more than 25 years for this newspaper group will have stuck in the minds of many. He and I really did have numerous adventures working as a team. It was the early 2000s when we started working together and back then I could see how his expensive new digital cameras were helping to revolutionise everything we did in the media. Suddenly, images were instantaneous. We could examine a photo on the spot - on the screen on the back of one of Richard’s big Canon cameras - and often I remember him muttering something like: “That’s one for the front page.” Award winning photographer Richard Austin I’d write my story accordingly. Or sometimes I’d suggest getting a close-up with one of his massive telephoto lenses so I could highlight whatever it was in the ensuing article. Richard, who is now retired and living in Lyme Regis, was a remarkable professional. The only press photographer, as far as I know, ever to win both the ultimate UK awards, Press Photographer and Sports Photographer, in the same year. He would stop at nothing to get the right shot. He would, for example, lie down in a muddy field to get the right angle, climb a tree, or whatever it took to get that image just so. My late father, who worked as a journalist all this life, used to sometimes come along on my travels and he’d say: “I wish I’d had a snapper like that to illustrate my work. Those images really amplify your story. They make everything look like award-winning work.” You can see on this page a photograph I once took of Richard, snapping away at an interview high on the edge of a Cornish headland. My photo doesn’t really do it justice, but there he was hanging almost upside down on a scary slope - despite the fact that he was nervous when it came to heights. Richard Austin "upside down" on a Cornish peninsula getting just the right shot The Idea That Sparked the Series Around about that time I heard a BBC radio programme entitled something like: Is Crime Dead? A panel of crime-writers all agreed it was becoming more difficult to write about contemporary crime because solving cases was limited to specialist officers, scientists and other technical experts. It was all about things like DNA testing. There was no longer room for the enthusiastic amateur. The Miss Marples of the world had been confined to history, and so was Sherlock Holmes. That very day I was driving back from covering a murder for this newspaper, and I thought…. “Hang on. The crime reporter of a large regional daily would have plenty of excuse to be around crime scenes.” That morning the duty news-editor - a well known figure in West Country journalism - had barked instructions down the phone for me to do “something writerly”. He wanted a poignant description of the murder scene and a rather emotional account relating to the mood of the village where it happened. Which suited me. I am absolutely hopeless at almost everything else in this world and not really any good at a load of facts and figures - but I am good at being observant and I’m not bad at writing. An AI impression of Veryan Lammoran, the Cornish Snapper It turned out to be pretty gruesome and terribly, terribly sad. A little girl and her mother had been killed and it soon transpired that the man who did it had finished his own life soon afterwards. I sat in my car tapping out words on my laptop describing how the girl’s wind-chimes were ringing in the breeze of the open window of her bedroom, just above the place where she’d been shot. I asked Richard to zoom in with his big 500 mm lens and photograph the wind chimes - and that image, along with my description, duly appeared on the next day’s front page. The story upset me, as it would upset most people. But as I drove home listening to the crime-writers on the car radio, I thought how wrong they were. A newspaper reporter would have every excuse to be near a crime-scene. Indeed, knowing who we were, the police that day had let me and Richard get a little closer to the scene while they kept most members of the public well back. That’s when I had my brainwave. It would be the photographer who could get really close to details, thanks to those giant lenses mounted on the new digital cameras. Brilliant! And it would stand to reason that the reporter would be a natural fit for the Dr Watson character. Arthur Conan Doyle’s retired army doctor didn’t really have any reason to go writing down details surrounding a mystery or a crime, but that is a newspaper reporter’s job. A natural fit. The photographer, or snapper, would be Holmes and the person writing the narrative, the reporter, would be the new Dr Watson. AI image of Thomas Hamilton who 'writes' the Cornish Snapper narrative Why Cornwall Became the Perfect Setting In my spare time I quickly knocked out three different stories based on this crime-fiction pairing. And I set the mystery tales in Cornwall for a couple of reasons… One was that I rather liked the conjunction between the word “snapper” - which for the most part relates to a kind of fish - and the place which lands a great deal of this nation’s seafood. So “Cornish Snapper” seemed to have some kind of authentic a ring to it. Secondly, it was Cornwall itself. It has such a well known and unique identity. If I’d gone for my own zone of operations - the whole of the West Country - it could come across as being more vague or amorphous. The windswept granite moors, the wild coast with its coves, the sea-cliffs and fishing villages, the mysterious moodiness of the Duchy’s interior… All these things added up to an easily identified and recognised whole. Lamorna Cove features in The Cornish Snapper Plus, things get smaller and more concentrated the further west you go in Cornwall. It would be plausible to have the central characters move from one location to an altogether different one in just a few minutes - easy to do in a place where one coast is less than half-an-hour’s drive from the other. A good recipe for variety - you don’t want to bore your readers. Which is why the first of my Snapper stories features Newlyn harbour, the rocky heights of Trencrom Hill, the coast around Lamorna Cove, St Ives, windswept Hayle Towans, lonely Tregonning Hill, and the peaceful upper reaches of the Fal estuary. It also includes two of Cornwall’s biggest industries: fishing and China clay. The fishing harbour at Newlyn, as featured in The Cornish Snapper The Moment the Story Changed However, the three original short stories I wrote never went anywhere. Publishers weren’t interested and I tried selling them on Amazon but had no clue what I was doing so I took them off its listing. Then a few years later I was down in Cornwall on a job with the wonderful Emily Whitfield-Wicks. We often worked together and Emily was - and is - a highly talented photographer (and artist). This particular job was on a remote part of the Cornish coast and for some reason it required us to walk down to the sea-cliffs. On the way, I told her how much the story we were working on (the sudden and unexpected sale of an entire Cornish village) would have suited my Snapper series - which I described in a little more detail after she’d asked. Real life Cornish "snapper" Emily Whitfield-Wicks “You’ve missed a trick,” she cried. “You should have made the photographer a female! It would add to the whole dynamic and be much more interesting.” She was absolutely right. So during the Covid lockdowns I went through the first of my old Snapper stories changing the male photographer into a female - and in doing so discovered the first version wasn’t really all that well written, so I heavily edited and rewrote as I went. In doing so, I made the narrative three times longer and, I think, gave it the space to become more absorbing. I borrowed many descriptions and accounts of places and sometimes people which I’d written first hand, on the spot, while down in Cornwall in my old day-job as senior feature writer for this newspaper. The author, Martin Hesp, back in the days when he was a roving feature writer From Rejection to Self-Publishing And so a novel is born. I thought it might be snapped up by a publisher but after numerous rejection slips, I decided to set up my own small publishing company and produce the book myself. They weren’t rejections, actually - most said something like: “We love your story - we are excited about publishing it! All we ask is a small author contribution. Just send us three-and-a-half-thousand-quid and you will become a best selling author.” Hmmm. It didn’t take Sherlock Holmes to see that was a dodgy road to go down. Where to Find The Cornish Snapper If you are interested, look out for The Cornish Snapper: The Granite Mystery - which is available for bookshops to stock now, or find the title on Amazon (https://amzn.eu/d/0dIdzLAX) - and if you do read it, a review on Amazon always helps independent authors. Martin will be speaking about the Cornish Snapper at Brendon Books in Taunton on Tuesday 19th May at 7pm. To book online visit www.brendonbooks.org or call 01823 337742. Alternatively, you can visit Bath Place, Taunton TA1 4ER. View from Hayle Towans where the fictional Cornish Snapper is said to live

We have just arrived in Paphos, Cyprus for a small convention organised by the British Guild of Travel Writers. I have been looking forward to this little trip, as it's been 32 long years since I was last here - and a great deal has changed on the island since. For a start, back in those days most roads north of the town or inland were not much more than dirt tracks. That is very much not the case now. Paphos has been quietly moving with the times. It is a place where Roman mosaics and UNESCO-listed tombs sit just a short distance from a harbour that still feels like the heart of the town. For those of us visiting with the British Guild of Travel Writers, the city served as a reminder that Cyprus doesn’t need to shout to get your attention; the history and the sea air do most of the work. The town itself is split between the old quarter on the hill and the coastal Kato Paphos. It is a walkable stretch of coastline, punctuated by the mediaeval castle and a promenade that leads you past archaeological sites that date back to the 4th century BC. It remains a reliable destination for anyone who prefers their sunshine served with a side of genuine antiquity. As is so often the case with the BGTW, we have a full and exciting itinerary - and we are staying in what must be one of the best hotels in Cyprus... View from the newly revamped top floor of the Asimina Suites Hotel The Constantinou Bros Legacy The hotel landscape in Paphos is largely shaped by the Constantinou Bros Hotels. This is a family-run outfit, founded by Cypriots back in the late 1970s. They have a knack for picking prime beachfront spots, and their presence here is substantial, with four major properties including the Pioneer Beach and Athena Royal. What sets them apart is a focus on the "adult-focused" market. They’ve moved away from the noisy, family-resort model, opting instead for a quieter, more refined style of hospitality. It’s an approach that suits the Paphos temperament well—focused on good food, unhurried service, and a certain level of calm. A Refreshed Paphos Retreat: The Asimina Suites My suite in the newly revamped top floor of the Asimina Suites Hotel Our base for the trip was the Asimina Suites Hotel, a five-star, all-suite property that has just undergone a significant six-month revamp. It reopened in May 2026, and while the core of the hotel remains familiar to its many repeat guests, the updates are noticeable. The New Floor: A brand-new top floor has been added, housing the Deluxe Superior One Bedroom Sea View Suites. These offer the kind of uninterrupted Mediterranean views you’d expect, but with a layout that actually gives you room to breathe. The St Andrews Rooftop Bar: This is perhaps the most significant change—a new venue for sundowners that looks out over the coast. It’s sophisticated without being flashy. Refined Spaces: The VIPS Bar and the Lounge Bar have both been expanded to accommodate the hotel’s popularity, and the Estia Restaurant has been given a refresh, including new wooden flooring that lightens the whole space. The hotel remains an adults-only haven. It’s the sort of place where you can take a morning swim in the interconnected pools, wander through the gardens to the beach, or spend an hour in the Elixir Spa without the usual holiday clamour. For a journalist looking for a quiet desk or a traveller looking for a proper rest, it hits the mark.

A table with a view at the amazing Chateau de la Treyne For some of us the act of eating and tasting food or drink can be as interesting and profound as, say, listening to a piece of music or examining a painting. There are those who would disagree, but I know it to be true, simply because of the number of people who are willing to spend large sums on eating at award-winning restaurants. And across the wide and fertile acres of our near neighbour, France, the percentage of food-loving citizens increases dramatically. I was thinking this one evening last week just after I had popped a humble cockle into my mouth. A small shellfish I’ve enjoyed all my life, but this cockle was different. It was a super-cockle. It was as if the most cockly cockle in the world had been produced especially for this moment of personal enjoyment. It tasted of the essence of ocean. It’s velvety texture was salty, sweet and creamy all at the same time. It was so sublime, a little tear in my eye represented the kind of ecstasy I was feeling in that brief moment. Gilles Dudognon had invited another Michelin starred chef, Mathieu Guibert (chef-owner of the renowned Anne de Bretagne, located in La Plaine-sur-Mer - two stars in his case), from Brittany A Collaboration of Culinary Masters Over-the-top about this one cockle? I’d argue not… Why? Because my wife and I were at a special celebratory dinner in a well-known restaurant in southwest France being staged to celebrate the chef’s 40 years of holding a Michelin star. To mark the occasion Gilles Dudognon had invited another Michelin starred chef, Mathieu Guibert (chef-owner of the renowned Anne de Bretagne, located in La Plaine-sur-Mer - two stars in his case), from Brittany to help him prepare this very special banquet. It was Mathieu who’d brought these fresh live cockles from his local estuary - and here’s the thing… This particular course (there were many) was taking its time and the waitress explained that chef had insisted each and every little cockle should not be opened until just seconds before it was required. He’d declared no one could possibly enjoy the explosive freshness of the shellfish if it was opened even minutes before serving, let alone hours. And he was right. These were by far the best cockles I have ever eaten. Fabulous new pigeon dish at Gilles Dudognon’s La Chapelle Saint Martin The Relais & Châteaux "Triple Crown" So what was an Exmoor peasant like me doing in such a place, attending such a special dinner? For that I have to thank a friend who is a top travel PR - the same chap who took Hesp Out West on a tour of the Dordogne last autumn, the results of which were reported in these pages. Because I’d shown massive enthusiasm for the food, he invited me back to sample three glorious hotels with Michelin-starred restaurants, all within a triangle that required no more than a couple of hours driving. It was at Gilles Dudognon’s La Chapelle Saint Martin, just outside Limoges that we enjoyed the feast which so warmed the cockles of my heart. The other two establishments were Le Vieux Logis, in the pretty village of Tremolat in the River Dordogne, and Château de la Treyne, perched high above the same gorgeous waterway but some 50 miles upstream. Together they represent some of the best of their kind in all of France. The terrace at Chateau de la Treyne I am backed in that assertion by the fact that all three are members of Relais & Châteaux - an organisation built on the “five Cs”… Character, Courtesy, Calm, Charm, and Cuisine. Unlike large international luxury chains where a room in Paris looks identical to one in New York, this association mandates that every property be a unique reflection of its local terroir. So the member hotels are not corporate-run entities - they are often family-owned estates where guests are treated like friends of the family. Part of the La Chapelle Saint-Martin dining set up Whether it is the riverside drama of Château de la Treyne, the garden intimacy of Le Vieux Logis, or the parkland elegance of La Chapelle Saint Martin, the common thread is an obsession with the “Art of Living”. And the association has a deep commitment to culinary preservation. By staying at these properties, you are not just getting a Michelin-starred meal, you are supporting a system that champions local farmers and traditional French techniques, ensuring unique flavours in places like the Dordogne or the Limousin remain for the next generation of travellers. I was so impressed, I’m doing two articles about the trip - this one concentrating on all that glorious Michelin food - and next week looking at the three hotels from the perspective of their locales. Why go to such trouble? Because this year more people are booking either staycation holidays or trips to nearby places, for obvious reasons - and the places I am mentioning are no more than a day’s drive from Roscoff at the other end of the Plymouth ferry. I flew because, as usual, I was in a journalist’s hurry - but I’d definitely take the car next time. The garden at Le Vieux Logis, First Stop: Le Vieux Logis, Trémolat We began at Le Vieux Logis, a charming hotel in the picturesque village of Tremolat, close to where the Dordogne and Vézère rivers meet. The 16th-century priory is now a luxurious four-star hotel renowned for its gastronomic restaurant, led by Michelin-starred chef Vincent Arnould, serving refined, modern cuisine rooted in classic French technique and local specialties like truffle and foie gras. We enjoyed the springtime menu which included the area’s first green asparagus, served simply as a salad with fresh goat cheese and wild garlic. This was followed by a fillet of brill served with stuffed morels, broad beans. The main savoury dish was a “declination” of lamb, which translates as a slice of roasted leg and a cutlet served with Sarladaise potatoes and spring turnips. The spuds are named after the medieval town of Sarlat-la-Canéda, and are considered the ‘King of Potatoes’ in France. The restaurant at The garden at Le Vieux Logis, is in a wonderfully converted barn Obviously there were the usual amuse bouche as well as sweet courses and cheese as part of the Springtime Stroll Menu (“Balade Printanière”). I’m loathe to talk about anything as vulgar as money, but just to give an idea - this costs 130 euros a head with the sommelier’s wine selection at 25 euros. That is £135 for a truly memorable meal, in an exquisite restaurant with top notch wine. I’ll leave the reader to make UK comparisons. Riverside Grandeur: Château de la Treyne The next day we journeyed alongside the river, upstream to Chateau de la Treyne, which is where my jaw dropped. I mean dropped with awe. It is one of the loveliest hotels I have visited in over 40 years of travel writing - another reason I’ll be writing more about it next week. The wonderful Chateau de la Treyne hangs above the Dordogne River After entering the fabulous old chateau, perched on a cliff edge 100 feet above the river, I did manage to get my job working again - to work its way through the following menu prepared by chef Stephane Andrieux who has worked at the chateau for 28 years and who’s held a Michelin star for the past 25. Not mentioning the amuse bouche etc, I had a starter of pan-roasted foie gras, served with local white asparagus and crisped couscous pearls. My wife enjoyed blue lobster braised with organic baby carrots, ginger, lemon thyme, and a coconut-lemongrass bisque. For a mains, I went for the Quercy lamb rack, interestingly larded with smoked trout from the nearby Blagour abyss (an underground spring), served with spinach and spring vegetables. Rather surprisingly for her, Sue had the Label Rouge veal from Aveyron, served with a “garden” of peas and carrots. For pudding it was the Caribbean coffee-chocolate delice with tonka bean and cacao nibs for me, and the strawberry sablé infused with meadowsweet for Sue. The cheese course at Chateau de la Treyne I won’t bang on about how superb all this was, because you can take it on auto-pilot that it really was. I will say that the elegant dining room’s window table offered the kind of set-up I imagine you find in heaven once you’ve gone upstairs having led and absolutely saintly and blameless life. I will never forget that evening, eating the most delicious food imaginable watching the swallows darting over the waters of the Dordogne River 100 feet below. The exquisite Chateau de la Treyne Parkland Elegance: La Chapelle Saint-Martin As mentioned, we also had a very memorable dinner at La Chapelle Saint-Martin, a hotel restaurant set in its own parkland just minutes away from Limoges airport. Parkland Elegance: La Chapelle Saint-Martin As that meal was a one-off celebration, I’ll describe the normal run of fare… For example, there are starters such as seared langoustines served with local black bacon, early peas, poultry jus and a light shell foam, or mushroom ravioli, served with Comté cream and raw mushrooms. Main courses include Limousin rack of veal served with a ragout of its own juices and a deep truffle jus; or pollack served with a beurre blanc enriched with Neuvic caviar and a fresh artichoke tartare; or the magnificent Hare à la Royale - a classic for those seeking the pinnacle of traditional French game cookery. God knows how many pounds I put on last week, and I do not regret a single ounce. Magnificent. The perfect gastronomic holiday. Next week I’ll explain why this area is so idyllic and lovely I was half tempted to move there full-time. Fact File: The Southwest French "Triple Crown” Le Vieux Logis Set in a beautifully restored former tobacco-drying barn and priory, this hotel is the epitome of Périgord charm, complete with mill leat and French gardens. Location: 24510 Trémolat, France. Chef: Vincent Arnould. Key Feature: Intimate, garden-focused luxury in a quiet Dordogne village. Website: vieux-logis.com Château de la Treyne Dramatic 14th-century fortress perched on a limestone cliff directly overlooking the Dordogne river. Often cited as one of the most beautiful "castle hotels" in France. Location: 46200 Lacave, France. Chef: Stéphane Andrieux. Key Feature: The "Grand Terrace" over the river and 120 acres of private forest and parkland. Website: chateaudelatreyne.com La Chapelle Saint Martin A 19th-century manor house set within a 40-acre park. It serves as the perfect gateway to the region due to its proximity to Limoges. Location: 87510 Nieul (near Limoges), France. Chef: Gilles Dudognon (celebrating 40 years of Michelin stars in 2026). Key Feature: A celebration of Limousin heritage and parkland elegance. Website: chapellesaintmartin.com Travel Information Martin flew to Limoges from Stansted - Holiday Extras is market leader in airport parking, hotels, lounges, and transfers – in 2025 its customers saved an average of £200 per trip by booking their airport parking in advance. Booking an airport hotel with parking means less hassle and can actually cost less than booking parking alone. One nights’ standard room with breakfast at Hampton by Hilton, with six days’ Meet and Greet parking at Stansted Airport is available for £302.91 (based on arrival on 12/05/2026). Plus with Flextras, if you need to cancel or amend you can without charge. For more information, HolidayExtras.com or call 0800 316 5678.

Pint of Guinness in the Luttrell Arms Secret Garden, Dunster The Glories of Pub Gardens As I strode along Cogden Beach in warm sunshine recently, my thoughts turned to the great reopening. By which I mean not pubs after lockdown—but the simple return of warmer days and the end of winter. Over Easter I saw any number of pubs, restaurants and cafés throwing open their outdoor spaces—and they were rammed. We are, it seems, a nation that simply needs to be outside when the weather plays ball. And few pleasures compare to what I call “eating the view.” Best Pub Gardens in Cornwall View of Bryher in the Scillies from close to New Inn Tresco The New Inn, Tresco, Isles of Scilly After a Skybus-and-ferry journey, this is bliss. Sub-tropical planting, sea views to Bryher, and food that always seems to taste better for the effort it took to get there. https://www.tresco.co.uk/eat-drink/new-inn Cadgwith Cove Inn, Lizard A proper working fishing village backdrop and a pint after a long drive down the Lizard—hard to beat. https://www.cadgwithcoveinn.co.uk Looking out of the Cadgwith Inn to the small cosy garden The Mariners, Rock For those who like their garden with a side of serious food—this one has a loyal following for good reason. https://www.themarinersrock.co.uk Looking across Camel Estuary to Rock, home of the Mariners Inn The Ship Inn, Porthleven A classic harbour-side perch where the view does half the work and the atmosphere does the rest. https://theshipinnporthleven.co.uk/ Gurnard’s Head, West Penwith Wild, remote, and beautifully understated—this is outdoor dining with a sense of place right out in the hills of West Penwith. https://www.gurnardshead.co.uk/ Local foraging exert gathers wild greens for the Gurnard's Head Best Pub Gardens in Devon The Turf on the Exe Estuary The Turf Locks, Exe Estuary Half the pleasure is getting there—bike, boat or boot leather. Then comes the reward. Booking highly recommended. https://www.turflock.co.uk Bike or walk - the only way to get to Turf Lock on the Exe Estuary The Ferry Boat Inn, Shaldon A grandstand view of estuary life—boats, birds, and the odd bit of drama. https://www.ferryboatinnshaldon.co.uk The garden at the Ferry Boat Inn, Shaldon with views across to Teignmouth The Pig’s Nose, East Prawle Not so much a garden—more a village-wide sprawl on sunny days. All the better for it. One of my favourite pubs in all the world. https://www.pigsnoseinn.co.uk/ The author and the landlady - Martin Hesp with Lesley from the Pig's Nose The Malsters, Tuckenhay A dream pub with a fabulous waterside garden that encourages lingering. Great food and good rooms. https://www.themaltstersarms.co.uk The Maltsters at Tuckenay in South Devon The Drewe Arms, Drewsteignton Right on the edge of Dartmoor—classic, timeless, and exactly what you hope for. https://www.thedrewearms.co.uk The Drewe Arms at pretty little Drewsteignton on the edge of Dartmoor The Millbrook Inn, South Pool Known for its garden setting and strong food reputation. A bit tucked away—and all the better for it. https://www.millbrookinnsouthpool.co.uk Collecting vegetables for the excellent food at the Millbrook Inn The Mason’s Arms, Knowstone Food-led, but with a garden that makes you want to linger. A truly fabulus inn located in an out of the way village close to southern Exmoor. https://www.masonsarmsknowstone.co.uk Two journalistic colleagues at the Mason Arms, Knowstone Best Pub Gardens in Somerset View from the "Secret Garden" at Dunster - looking across to Dunster Castle The Luttrell Arms, Dunster One of my regular haunts. The “secret garden” is sheltered, atmospheric, and ideal for a quiet pint. https://luttrellarms.co.uk/ The 'secret garden' at the Luttrell Arms, Dunster Porlock Weir Hotel, Porlock Right on the harbour edge—peaceful, scenic, and wonderfully unhurried. And great food. https://porlockweirhotel.co.uk/ View from the garden at Porlock Weir Hotel The Farmer’s Arms, Combe Florey Near the Quantocks, with a proper country garden and excellent food. https://www.thefarmersarmscombeflorey.co.uk Jane and Tim, landlords of the Farmer's Arms, Combe Florey The Carew Arms, Crowcombe A classic village pub with a generous lawn and right next to the beautiful Quantock Hills. https://www.carewarmscrowcombe.co.uk Garden at the Carew Arms, Crowcombe The King Alfred, Burrowbridge Out on the Levels—open, slightly wild, and especially good at sunset. https://www.kingalfredinn.co.uk Best Pub Gardens in Dorset The Club House Garden, West Bexington The Club House, West Bexington Sea air, seafood, and that glorious Chesil Beach backdrop. https://www.theclubhousewestbexington.co.uk/ Fish at the Club House, West Bexington The Anchor Inn, Seatown A fine place to sit and watch the world—and the tide—go by. And a great centre for some dramatic coastal walking. https://www.anchorinnseatown.co.uk The Anchor Inn at Seatown, Dorset coast The Bottle Inn, near Lambert's Castle One of the best and most quirky pubs in Dorset. Very simple food but good - and fabulous beer and cider. https://www.thebottleinnmarshwood.co.uk Landlord and landlady of the Bottle Inn, Dorset Unique & Unusual Outdoor Dining River Exe Café A floating dining experience reached by boat—still on my list, I must admit. https://www.riverexecafe.com/ A Final Thought This is, of course, a ridiculously short list. After decades of beetling around the West Country I could easily name dozens more—and no doubt you have your own favourites. If you know a pub with a garden that deserves a mention, do drop me a line at how@martinhesp.co.uk. Because when the sun shines in this part of the world, there are few better places to be than sitting outside with a pint, a plate, and a view worth savouring.

A hiker admires one of the "wild" sculptures on Cogden Beach, Dorset There are times when you can spend far too much time behind a steering wheel. It happened to me the other day when several appointments took me to deepest darkest Dorset… As I began the drive home - along what must be one of the most dramatic coastal roads in England (the B3157) - I caught a glimpse of the car park close to Cogden Beach and before I knew it I was enjoying a good walk along the shore. Finding Cogden Beach on the Dorset Coast To find this particular corner of our glorious littoral you need to travel along the scenic coast road that climbs east out of Burton Bradstock to eventually reach Abbotsbury. Just a mile along the B3157 you will see the National Trust car park, that seems to be there for no other purpose than to give motorists a glorious view. However, a paved path descends a quarter of a mile through trust-owned land down to Cogden Beach. You could, if you wish, begin a seaside stroll further west at Burton Beach, which is the coastal end of the village of that name – then scrunch your way along Hive Beach - before reaching the spot where I descended to the sea, but you will only see more of the same if you do… Track down to Cogden Beach Walking Along Chesil Beach What I did was walk down from the car park and turn left to stride along the shoreline to West Bexington. This is more arduous than it sounds - as anyone who has ever attempted to walk the length of nearby Chesil Beach (of which this is the most western part) will tell you, the loose gravel that creates this shoreline consists does not lend itself to the human gait. Your feet sink in the same way they would in soft sand, so that walking one mile in it requires the same exertion has marching three on a normal surface. What you find yourself doing is walking in a peculiar flat-footed kind of way because the normal action of planting down your ankle first then exchanging your weight forwards using the length of your foot is guaranteed to sink each footstep deeper. (If you're enjoying this article take a look at solme of our other West Country walks posts here ) The Peculiar Art of Walking on Shingle The flat-footed style is an inelegant stomp which will make you look either like some kind of rustic simpleton or a weird spawn of Frankenstein. My companion and I experimented with various kinds of foot-placement as we made our way the two miles to West Bexington and eventually came out on the side of the hip-swinging, mincing gait you sometimes seen employed by a pantomime dame. Don’t worry about looking daft - you’re unlikely to be spotted by anyone. Not many people stroll east along Cogden Beach, probably because it is so exhausting. The beach stretches west towards West Bay with Golden Cap in the background Why This Dorset Walk Is Worth It Well worthwhile, though, because it is one of those big long ozone-filled beaches that is guaranteed somehow to invigorate the inner areas of one’s dusty soul, especially after a long winter. The joy of this walk is partly thanks to the fact that the most amazing artworks made of flotsam and jetsam are to be found along the shore. Who builds them, and why, I have no idea. I was just glad that they’d taken the trouble to do so. The little beach sculptures are fun. West Bexington and a Notable Restaurant Anyway, eventually we reach West Bexington which has featured in this series before when we visited the much-celebrated Club House . I say “much-celebrated” because the place has won not only two AA rosettes but a huge reputation. The young head chef, Will Hickton, is a talented chap who is passionate about using the freshest local produce at the restaurant, which is part of a triumvirate that includes the Hive Beach Café in Burton Bradstock and The Watch House. Will’s lobster bisque was one of the best soups I’d consumed in a long time. We also enjoyed a gargantuan sea-bass, a sharing platter brought to us on a large wooden board with a few beautifully cooked chips and other sides such as a watercress salad and a creamy slaw. We cleared every last morsel and I heartily recommend the place. History, Smugglers and the Landscape Some years ago the National Trust purchased land along this coast to preserve the integrity of the entire length of Chesil Beach, and now leases the inland areas such as the acres around the wonderful Tamarisk Farm (which has also featured in these pages before) and much of the area is now designated as the West Bexington Nature Reserve. Tamarisk Farm The seaside hamlet looks modern, being basically a single street lined with villas, but the place is actually rich in history. The Domesday Book refers to a village called Bessintone and down the centuries there was a lot of smuggling hereabouts. One local who defied the excise-men was farmer Isaac Gulliver who lived above the coast here close to the Eggardon Hill. Apparently his farm was used as a logistics centre for industrial scale smuggling activities. The Return Along the Coast Path If you’re driving along up on the road you do not get the full atmosphere of just how lonely and empty this stretch of coast is, but down behind the reed-beds you can certainly see why the smugglers of old liked the place for their arcane goings on. The coast path weaves its way west behind the reed-filled lakes or meres and eventually brings you back to the concrete track that leads down from the trust car park. It’s not the longest or even the most dramatic coastal walk in our region, but it is breathtaking in its own way – and a great deal more magnificent than any shoreline some countries can boast. Fact File: Cogden Beach to West Bexington Walk Fact FileBasic walk: from Cogden Beach east of Burton Bradstock to West Bexington along the shore, returning via the coast path. Distance and going: four miles – difficult going thanks to beach gravel on way out, easy coming back.

La Chapelle Saint Martin MEAL TO REMEMBER Last night we were incredibly honoured to attend a special celebratory dinner at this famous restaurant just outside Limoges - and what a meal it was. One of the best I can remember - prepared by not one but two Michelin starred French chefs. More of that later, but first here's the story behind the celebrations. Gilles Dudognon - 40 Years a Michelin Chef There is a particular kind of magic that settles over a place when it has been loved, scrubbed, and perfected for decades. When you pull up the drive of La Chapelle Saint Martin, just outside Limoges, you aren’t just entering a hotel; you are stepping into a living, breathing testament to the art of French hospitality. And 2026 marks a milestone that few in the gruelling world of high gastronomy ever reach: forty consecutive years of holding a Michelin star. Gilles Dudognon (left) has managed a rare Michelin feat In an industry that often chases the "new" and the "trendy" until the soul of the cooking is bleached white, Gilles Dudognon has managed a much rarer feat. He has kept the flame burning without ever letting the smoke cloud his vision. To hold a star for four decades isn’t just about technical precision; it’s about a deep-rooted, stubborn sincerity. Gilles Dudognon with fellow Michelin chef Mathieu Guilbert The Flame That Never Faded I’ve always believed that the best food can help tell a blindfolded person exactly where they are standing. In the land of porcelain and rolling Limousin pastures, Gilles has spent forty years defending a "cuisine of truth." It is food that respects the seasons and, more importantly, the people who pull the ingredients from the soil. Looking ahead to this anniversary year, Gilles reflects on a journey that began under the tutelage of greats like Jean-Marie Amat and Philippe Da Silva. But he also credits the humble, generous influence of his grandmother, Marie, who taught him that the ultimate goal of cooking is the gift of the meal itself. "I have never considered this star an achievement," Gilles says, with the kind of humility you only find in masters of their craft. "But rather a responsibility to pass on, to move people, and to keep a soulful house alive." A Family Affair What makes 2026 truly special at La Chapelle isn't just the trophies on the wall, but the people in the kitchen and the corridors. This is a year of "transmission"—that beautiful French concept of passing the torch. Gilles is joined in this chapter by his partner Aude, who has helped shape the estate’s modern identity, and his son Henri. Seeing a new generation step into the fold, carrying the family motto—To live is to persist!—is, for Gilles, a greater pride than any accolade from Paris. A Year of Celebration If you find yourself in this corner of the Haute-Vienne in 2026, you are in for a treat. The estate is throwing open its doors for a year-long festival of gastronomy. Expect: Four-Hands Dinners: Gilles welcoming great chef friends into his kitchen for collaborative feasts. Garden Events: Making the most of the stunning Saint Martin grounds with convivial outdoor gatherings. Cultural Performances: Blending the arts with the table. Charity Initiatives: Including a dedicated commitment to Pink October. La Chapelle Saint Martin has always been more than a restaurant; it is a sanctuary of the senses. Whether you are there for the porcelain, the parkland, or that legendary Michelin-starred plate, 2026 is the year to visit and witness a legacy in full bloom. Here’s to forty years of the Dudognon touch—and to the next forty yet to come. So what about last night's memorable feast prepared by both Gilles and Mathieu Guilbert... Here's the menu below - it was all 1000 percent first class but the pigeon ballotine really did pull olut all the stops. A superb dish - and a newly invented one, we were told. Pigeon ballotine A four-handed Menu Pigeon Ballotine Grilled Green Asparagus Stew, Foie Gras, Dill Peas, Black Lemon and Peanut Sauce Haddock Risotto, Thick Langoustine Carpaccio Parmesan Emulsion Delicately poached Turbot, Rigadeaux and from my native Retz Fish stock and Cardamom Lamb Loin Wrapped in Swiss Chard Leaves, Confit of Pork Belly with Tapenade, Mint-Infused Broad Bean Mousse, Garlic and Rosemary The Soufflé of La Maison du Fromage Coconut Mousse and Praline, Lime Crème Brûlée, Delicate Falernum Sorbet Turbot with cockles