Why La Palma Remains the Canaries' Most Dramatic, Untamed Island The massive volcanic spine of La Palma curves into the Atlantic like a giant question mark—a fitting shape for an island that presents a wonderful mystery: how has one of the most dramatically scenic spots in Europe managed to stay so quiet, unvisited, and unspoilt? While neighbouring Tenerife embraced mass tourism decades ago, La Palma chose a different path. You won't find bustling neon strips or crowded white-sand beaches here. Instead, you step into a world of soaring 8,000-foot volcanic rims, ancient cloud forests scented with fresh pine, and quiet colonial streets lined with historic carved-wood balconies. Traditional historic wooden balconies, Santa Cruz de La Palma Have you watched the Netflix mini-series La Palma? It’s a show that is highly likely to put thousands of people off visiting this most beautiful of islands. . Yes, there is a volcano threat, and that could cause a giant landslide into the ocean resulting in the biggest tsunami ever seen, but why let that put you off? It is one of the most dramatically scenic islands I have ever visited… While mass tourism transformed much of the Canaries, La Palma has remained blissfully untamed and authentic... The massive backbone of La Palma curves itself into a shape that makes it the world’s biggest question mark, which is highly apt because the Canarian island presents quite a mystery. It is simply this: how can it be that one of the most beautiful islands in the whole of what could loosely be described as Europe remains so unknown, unvisited and unspoilt? The forests of Caldera de Taburiente Why Visit La Palma? A Quiet Alternative to Tenerife You only have to look a few miles across the ocean from its precipitous eastern flanks to see what happens when lovely islands become known, visited and spoilt. Tenerife has many wonderful attributes, but its big bow to mass tourism isn’t one of them. “Go to La Palma, ­it is like Tenerife was 50 years ago,” said my contact at Thomson when I told her I wanted to go somewhere very scenic and reasonably quiet, with a little bit of sophistication and good living thrown in for good measure. The Perfect Destination for Discerning Travellers I made these demands for selfish reasons, but knowing my newspaper’s demographic like I do, I was aware that this is exactly the sort of holiday destination sought by a great majority of this newspaper’s readers. La Palma hit the jackpot. In fact, I have no trouble in putting it way up there in my top ten worldwide holiday recommendations to readers. What La Palma Is—and Isn’t The list of what the place lacks is so short it would be far easier to deal with it first. If you like long nights out in noisy resorts heaving with well lubricated humanity, forget La Palma. It really is quiet. If you like lolling about on endless white beaches, forget that too. La Palma is very short on sandy strands and the few it’s got are black as coal. A small fishing community, western La Palma Best Hiking Holidays in La Palma: Dramatic Landscapes and Wild Interiors Now for the positives. If you like beautiful places rich in dramatic and interesting landscapes, then you really would have to go a long way to beat La Palma. There are corners of its vast mountainous interior where you could easily pretend you were in some place like the wilds of Wyoming. Most people who visit this island go for the scenery. It’s the only sunshine destination I’ve ever been to where nine out of ten fellow tourists climb off the plane armed with hiking boots and poles. Walking is by far La Palma’s biggest attraction. Guided Walking Tours in La Palma: An Authentic Adventure Daily walking tours are offered at every hotel and the routes followed by the professional guides are as interesting as they are scenic and stunning. The organised tour I joined explored the far north of the island where we passed intriguing hippy villages, mythical and amazing dragon trees, prehistoric cave drawings, precipitous gorges, old ladies selling hand-glazed almonds, young men selling hand-made ice cream, feral but friendly dogs and a truly amazing local farmers’ market which put many of ours to shame. La Palma's Volcanic Origins and Geological Wonders I used the word precipitous, but I will refrain from doing so for the rest of this article. Everything about La Palma is precipitous. It is a world on a slope - and a steep one at that. The island doesn’t boast a volcano ­- it is a volcano. Or a whole variety of volcanoes to be exact. It is, by the way, the place that might one day - according to some geologists -­ be responsible for wiping out the eastern coastline of America with a vast tsunami. They reckon that half the island will slide into the Atlantic and cause the biggest wave in history. Canarian pines cling to volcanic slopes of La Palma Explore Caldera de Taburiente: A National Park Like No Other The northern part of the island is dominated by the mighty Caldera de Taburiente, the largest erosion crater in the world measuring six miles across and more than 5,000 feet deep. The mountains that surround the crater climb to almost 8,000 feet and you can drive around much of this rocky altitudinous ring if you have the courage and inclination. Roque de los Muchachos Observatory: Stargazing in La Palma The reason the road exists, by the way, is because the summit is home to the world-famous Roque de los Muchachos Observatory where so many galactic observations of great note have been taken in the past few decades. Dragon tress grow high above the waves in La Palma Hiking the Barranco de las Angustias: A Trail Into the Heart of the Island The one place you can’t reach by car is the enormous, forested, gorge-riddled, crater far below. Only the deep Barranco de las Angustias canyon leads into the inner area of the caldera and the only way for you to get in is to hike along one of the numerous marked trails. Cloud Forests and Canarian Pines: The Island’s Unique Ecosystem Even my teenager daughter, who is usually awed only by views of shopping malls, was rendered speechless as we walked along one of the higher trails to reach a vertigo-inducing viewpoint. And like everywhere else in La Palma above a certain altitude, the place is scented with the heady, fresh aroma of pine – it is, indeed, the most forested island in the archipelago. Microclimates and Mist: Discover the Magic of La Palma's Pine Forests On hot days (and there are a lot of hot days on La Palma) you can be toiling across bare and broiling mountainsides only to enter one of these forests and find it raining a cool and refreshing vapour that falls not from the sky but from the trees. Winter Sun Destination Close to the UK Hot days… The mere thought is magical enough on a miserable January day here in the UK. The temperature down in the Canaries at this time of the year is perfect for human consumption, and it’s the closest winter sun destination to the wet and windy England. TAKE A LOOK AT OUR POST ON TENERIFE BY CLICKING HERE Where to Stay in La Palma: A Taste of Low-Key Luxury Many travel companies offer packages to this island and I am glad to report they are doing it in the low-key kind of way La Palma deserves. Hacienda San Jorge Apartments, Los Cancajos: Tropical Comfort To call Los Cancajos a resort is a bit of an over-statement ­– it’s merely a collection of a dozen or so hotels dotted around a few shops and restaurants,­ but it does boast a sandy beach (albeit of black volcanic sand) and it is just a ten-minute bus ride from the charming, friendly and picturesque island capital of Santa Cruz. Boutique Hotels in La Palma: The Hacienda Experience The comfortable apartments are situated in colonial-style two storey buildings around a tropical garden, which itself is centred around a vast swimming pool. So proud is the hotel of these gardens it arranges daily botanical tours so you can admire the attractive little jungle at close hand. Santa Cruz de La Palma: Shopping and History in the Island Capital Not in Santa Cruz, it wasn’t. My daughter was over the moon because the place is stuffed full of the sophisticated designer label shops that mean the world to her and absolutely nothing to me. Santa Cruz, La Palma Discover Santa Cruz's Architecture and Colonial Charm Intricate wooden balconies hang over just about every street down in the old part of town and many of these are festooned with a wealth of hanging baskets. SEE ONE OF OUR POSTS ON LANZAROTE HERE History and Heritage: The Indigenous People and Spanish Arrival Before the Spaniards turned up it was divided into a dozen or so kingdoms inhabited by a kind of Neolithic indigenous people called the Benahoare. Local Delicacies and La Palma Wine Culture Madeira, not far north, is still famous for the strong wine of that name ­but long ago northern Europe’s favourite tipple was “malmsey”, ­and it came from La Palma. The island wines are still well worth quaffing today. Banana Plantations and Volcanic Landscapes in the South Walkers set off for a hike in western La Palma But it is bananas that La Palma goes bananas about nowadays, which takes us to the remote south west coast of the island. These yellow plantains rule the coastal roost in vast man-made plateaus built into the moonscapes of lava. La Palma Princess Hotel: Relaxation in a Volcanic Paradise It is the island’s only bow to large-scale tourism - and one hopes the government keep things that way – but I have to admit we hugely enjoyed luxuriating in its many acres. Final Word: La Palma is for Explorers, Not Tourists But La Palma is not really about that. It is an island that offers the ultimate in scenic adventure – much though I loved lazing by the pool, I adored the hard work of exploring its wondrous peaks much, much more. SEE OUR POST ON GRAN CANARIA HERE La Palma Travel Fact File & Highlights Getting There: Direct seasonal charter/scheduled flights from the UK (London Gatwick, Manchester) take around 4.5 hours to Santa Cruz de La Palma (SPC), or connect via Tenerife North / Gran Canaria with Binter Canarias ferries and flights. Getting Around: Hiring a small car is the best way to explore remote trailheads and mountain passes; regular Guagua (bus) routes connect Santa Cruz, Los Llanos, and Los Cancajos. Best Time for Walkers: October to May offers comfortable daytime temperatures (19°C–24°C), lush greenery, and clear skies for high-altitude trekking. Top 5 Things to Do: Hike the Caldera de Taburiente: Trek into the heart of the world’s largest erosion crater via the Barranco de las Angustias. Stargaze at Roque de los Muchachos: Visit the international observatory perched on the 7,950-foot summit above the clouds. Stroll Historic Santa Cruz: Explore the 16th-century cobbled streets, artisan shops, and famous floral wooden balconies of the capital. Walk the Ruta de los Volcanes: A dramatic ridge hike traversing the volcanic spine of Cumbre Vieja down to Fuencaliente. Sample Malvasía Wine & Local Cheese: Taste traditional sweet Malmsey wine paired with local smoked goat’s cheese (Queso Palmero) in northern hill villages. Small traditional home in northern La Palma Frequently Asked Questions Is La Palma a good alternative to Tenerife? Yes. If you prefer tranquil landscapes, dramatic walking trails, and traditional Canarian culture over bustling resort nightlife and commercial entertainment, La Palma offers a far quieter, unspoilt experience reminiscent of the Canaries decades ago. What is the best time of year to visit La Palma for walking? Autumn through late spring (October to May) offers comfortable temperatures for hiking in the mountains, escape from northern European winter weather, and clear skies for walking the rim of the Caldera de Taburiente. Do I need a car to explore La Palma? While guided walking tours and local buses connect major towns like Santa Cruz and resorts like Los Cancajos, hiring a car gives you the freedom to reach remote trailheads, high-altitude viewpoints, and the summit observatory at Roque de los Muchachos. Are the beaches in La Palma sandy? La Palma has very few classic white-sand beaches; instead, its coastline features dramatic black volcanic sand beaches, secluded pebble coves, and natural sea pools carved into the lava rock.

A Journey to the Wye Valley: Where England Meets Wales “Oh sylvan Wye! thou wanderer thro' the woods, how often has my spirit turned to thee!” So wrote William Wordsworth 227 years ago in his poem Lines Composed a Few Miles above Tintern Abbey. And I am repeating them here because I happen to be in Tintern, looking across at the River Wye. Like a great many West Country folk, I have visited this most beautiful of valleys on several occasions and never failed to be impressed by the green and glorious ebb and flow of its waters reflecting the stately forests that divide England and Wales. That is what the Wye Valley does. On one bank of the river you’re on home turf in England’s Westcountry; on the other you’ve gone abroad to Gwalia, to give Wales its archaic, poetic name. Staying at The Royal George Hotel, Tintern I am abroad as I write, looking across the river to England, sitting in a luxurious suite of an ancient coaching inn that has recently been completely refurbished — The Royal George, a fantastic find in Tintern. Having stayed the night and consumed a wonderful dinner and breakfast, I can confirm: it’s a treat. Original Welsh flagstones and timber beams have been lovingly revealed, preserving architectural details and the spirit of the hotel. An earthy colour palette, tactile soft furnishings, rough-hewn surfaces, reclaimed Welsh slate, traditional panelling, and lime-washed paints provide a contemporary, rustic feel. The Royal George has been named Wales Hotel of the Year for 2026 by The Times, Affordable Luxury in the Wye Valley But the words “ancient coaching inn” and “completely refurbished” might be translated into a single word by experienced travellers: expensive. However, The Royal George manages to offer a first-class experience for less than you’d expect. “It was always our intention to create a truly magnificent offering that would also keep the local a ‘local’,” says regional operations manager Joe Costa. “That is part of our ethos, and villagers continue to be an important part of our offering — that’s the essence of what we’re trying to achieve.” Thoughtful Design and Local Connection Greyheath Collections, which also manages luxury properties in Italy, worked with London-based interior designer Camilla Kelly from The Mint List on this Tintern project. The newly revamped inn now has 19 rooms, making it an ideal base for a weekend break or romantic escape in the “Wye Valley National Landscape (which used to be the Wye Valley Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty). “Since our reopening in August 2025 after a two-year restoration, the hotel has been immensely popular. Absolutely packed!” says Joe Costa. The Perfect Base for Exploring Tintern and the Wye Valley Of course, the inn’s prime location helps. Tintern is a paradise for walkers, cyclists, and canoeists, offering easy access to Tintern Abbey, the Offa’s Dyke Path, and the scenic River Wye. “It’s about restoring a gathering place that has been woven into Tintern’s fabric for over four centuries,” Joe adds. “We take care of our locals and get involved with any village activities. We offer top London quality, yet the prices are very reasonable.” Rooms with Heritage and Character The Royal George offers ‘Garden Rooms’ (some dog-friendly, others with patios or balconies) and six ‘Heritage Rooms’ in the old coaching inn building. These are named after Welsh and nautical figures, including the Dean Brothers, inventors of the original diving helmet — whose first salvage mission was on a ship called The Royal George. Genuine Hospitality and Fine Dining Part of the inn’s newfound popularity is down to Mr Costa and his team. As someone who visits many establishments for these pages, I can say their warmth and professionalism are exceptional. Joe Costa’s background includes years as a high-level chef on super-yachts for the ultra-wealthy — and he’s brought that sense of quality and service to Tintern, combined with genuine local care. Meet Executive Chef Gareth Hope Another key figure in The Royal George’s success is Executive Chef Gareth Hope, whose menus focus on local, seasonal ingredients: Hereford beef, Monmouth pork, Welsh lamb, and fresh seafood from Brixham and Cornwall. “We simply go for the best stuff,” says Gareth. “We let the beef, the lamb and the seafood speak for itself.” The open-plan Upper Deck Restaurant allows diners to watch the chefs at work, adding to the atmosphere of connection and transparency. My dinner of fresh Brixham crab-cake followed by Cornish plaice was superb — the restaurant buzzing with happy diners even on a mid-October Thursday. The Royal George at Tintern Location: So Near, Yet So Far It might feel like travelling abroad for many readers, but Tintern is only 15 minutes from the Severn Bridge — and the inn is just a one-minute walk across the old Cable Bridge from England into Wales, across that famous and scenic “wanderer through the woods”, the River Wye. Visit:www.theroyalgeorge.com Explore More Around Tintern Kingstone Brewery: Local Ale in the Wye Valley During our stay, the Royal George team introduced us to local characters, starting with Ed and Tori Biggs, who run Kingstone Brewery, just up the valley. “We’ve been brewing for 20 years,” says Ed. “We started out selling vegetables, but the beer sold better!” Kingstone produces eight different ales, from traditional bitters to modern citrusy styles. Their Kingstone Gold (4%) is a light golden ale perfect for session drinking, while their IPA (5.8%) nods to the area’s maritime heritage. Visitors can book tastings at the brewery bar and meet the brewers themselves. Forest Bathing and Foraging at Hill Farm High above the valley, Hill Farm offers forest bathing and yoga retreats, run by Tom Court and his team. Guests at The Royal George can join two-hour forest sessions or book massages and wellness treatments. “We’ve been here for seven years,” says Tom. “It’s about slowing down and connecting with the forest.” Hill Farm also collaborates with Jessica Lucas, a medical herbalist and foraging guide from the Forest of Dean. “The wilder and fresher the food you can get, the more nutritional and medicinal it will be,” says Jess. “Herbal medicine and foraging go hand in hand.” Learn more:https://hillfarmtintern.co.ukhttps://herbalways.net Final Thoughts: Tintern’s Timeless Appeal From Wordsworth’s “sylvan Wye” to the contemporary comfort of The Royal George, Tintern remains a place where landscape, literature, and hospitality meet. Whether you come for a romantic escape, a walking holiday, or simply a good meal and a pint, this part of the Wye Valley will always invite you to pause — and to turn your spirit toward the river once more. FAQ: The Royal George, Tintern Is The Royal George in Tintern a good place to stay? Yes. The hotel has been extensively restored and offers characterful Welsh Heritage Rooms alongside contemporary Garden Rooms. Its position close to Tintern Abbey makes it an excellent base for exploring the Wye Valley. Is The Royal George dog friendly? Yes. The hotel has designated dog-friendly rooms and welcomes dogs in several of its dining and outdoor areas. How close is The Royal George to Tintern Abbey? The abbey is just a short walk from the hotel, making The Royal George particularly convenient for visitors wanting to explore Tintern on foot. Does The Royal George have a restaurant? Yes. The hotel currently has the more formal Upper Deck Restaurant alongside the Lower Deck pub, plus its Garden and Café offerings. Is The Royal George suitable for walkers? Yes. Tintern is surrounded by woodland, riverside paths and longer Wye Valley routes, including access towards the Offa's Dyke Path and the Devil's Pulpit.

Embracing Long-John Weather on Exmoor It’s been long-john weather of late. That’s the best way to describe the biting chill that cuts through even the sturdiest mole-skin trousers from country clothing shops. Winter has firmly settled over Exmoor, and nowhere is it more evident than on the slopes of Dunkery Beacon. A Frosty Encounter on Dunkery Beacon Yesterday’s attempt to enjoy a brisk walk atop Dunkery Beacon quickly turned into a retreat. The late afternoon promised panoramas of wintry beauty, but the icy wind had other plans. Within seconds, we were back in the car, seeking refuge. (To see more Exmoor walks click here) The Importance of Layers The key to braving such weather is layers. Good thermal layers can make all the difference, allowing you to stay warm without resembling the Michelin Man under heavy coats and scarves. Proper preparation transforms a chilling hike into an enjoyable adventure. Author at Dunkery Beacon Memories of Dunkery's Icy Extremes Dunkery Beacon has seen far harsher conditions. Years ago, we parked our car on Exmoor’s highest hill and walked the four miles to my parents’ home in Selworthy. After a warming dinner, my late father drove us back up the icy road at night. Unfortunately, our journey didn’t end there. The diesel in my vehicle had frozen, forcing my father to drive us home to Luxborough. The Science Behind Diesel Freezing That was the only time I’ve witnessed diesel freezing in Britain, although it’s more common in North America. There, motorists use small burners under their engines to prevent fuel from solidifying in extreme cold. Diesel can freeze around minus 12 degrees Celsius, and this experience proved how unforgiving Exmoor’s winters can be. Modern-Day Exmoor Winters More recently, I’ve driven Dunkery’s high roads in temperatures as low as minus 14 degrees Celsius. Add the wind chill, and the cold becomes brutal. Proper gear is essential for venturing out of your vehicle to explore the moors. Winter Driving Tips for the West Country If you plan to drive across West Country hills during these frigid nights, preparation is key. Layer up, ensure your vehicle is winter-ready, and always check conditions before setting out. Experience the Beauty and Challenges of Winter on Dunkery Beacon Exmoor’s rugged beauty shines in winter, but it demands respect. With the right mindset and gear, you can safely enjoy this stunning landscape, even in the harshest conditions. Stay warm and embrace the season’s unique charm. SEE ANOTHER POST ON AMN EXMOOR BASED DUNKERY WALK HERE

Ortigia, Sicily, is the historic heart of Syracuse – a tiny island of ancient Greek temples, medieval streets and spectacular Baroque architecture joined to the mainland by two short bridges. During a recent voyage around Sicily, I spent a few hours exploring this extraordinary old quarter after calling in on the Sea Cloud Spirit. Connected to the mainland by a couple of short bridges, this island is a UNESCO World Heritage site, and for very good reason. Exploring Ortigia, Sicily Within its one square kilometre, Ortigia really does present an almost unparalleled architectural timeline. Endless cobblestone streets, known locally as vicoli, twist past remnants of Greek temples—most notably the Temple of Apollo, the oldest Doric stone temple in Sicily—before opening suddenly into grand Baroque piazzas. The spectacular Piazza Duomo, for instance, is built on the ancient acropolis, with the dazzling Cathedral incorporating the original Doric columns of a 5th-century BC Temple of Athena right into its structure. This sheer density of history makes every turn a kind of educational adventure—especially if you don’t happen to have a map, which was the case when we visited recently after calling in on the superb Sea Cloud Spirit while on a voyage around Sicily. Getting Lost in Ortigia's Ancient Streets The density of the architecture is part of Ortigia’s undeniable allure, yet it’s not without its pitfalls for the uninitiated and indeed, the briefly-distracted. While I often praise myself for a sense of direction honed by years of globetrotting, I’ll admit that the tightly-packed, shade-drenched alleyways of the former Jewish quarter, La Giudecca, did prove a match for my navigational prowess. It was here, amidst the myriad of golden stone walls and hanging laundry, that I momentarily lost my bearings—and, more accurately, my travel companion. A brief pause to purchase a couple of bags of salted caper-berries meant that I became absolutely lost when trying to find my wife. For a worrying hour or more, we played a high-stakes game of Sicilian hide-and-seek, the narrow streets acting as an effective, if unintentional, maze. Thank god we found one another in the end - before the Sea Cloud moved off for a final leg to Malta. But it just shows how easily one can become consumed and confused by the island’s intimate, confusing beauty. Street Food and Seafood in Ortigia For all the history - and the momentary sense of panic - the simple pleasures of Ortigia are what a traveller will take home from this south eastern corner of Sicily. After strolling along the bustling waterfront of the Foro Italico, or perhaps near the famed Fonte Aretusa (a freshwater spring tied to Greek mythology), the opportunity for a quick and delicious indulgence presented itself. A street vendor offered three freshly shucked oysters with a glass of chilled local dry white wine. Paired with a chilled glass of local spumante (Italian sparkling wine), the crisp, salty burst of the oyster was elevated by the dry, fizzy effervescence of the wine. It was a brief but perfect, street-side moment - one that required no reservation-only restaurant, simply an appreciation for quality and local fare. Conclusion: Ortigia is a destination that rewards both the diligent historian and the casual wanderer. Its layers of civilisation are visible on every corner, from the temples of the past to the street vendors of the present. Walk around its myriad paths, but perhaps hold your companion's hand - those vicoli are more effective than any ancient wall in keeping secrets, or, indeed, hiding the temporary separation of loved ones. Key Takeaways Must-See Site:Piazza Duomo & the Cathedral (incorporating the Temple of Athena). Mythology Fix:The Fountain of Arethusa (Fonte Aretusa), a freshwater spring on the seafront. The Vibe: A labyrinth of Baroque, medieval, and ancient Greek structures on a small island. Food Tip: Look for street vendors near the market for fresh seafood and local Sicilian wine FAQ: Is Ortigia worth visiting? Yes. Ortigia is the historic heart of Syracuse and packs Greek, medieval and Baroque history into a remarkably small area. What is Ortigia famous for? Ortigia is famous for its ancient Greek heritage, Piazza Duomo, Syracuse Cathedral, the Temple of Apollo and the Fonte Aretusa. How long do you need in Ortigia? A few hours gives you time to see the principal sights, but staying longer allows you to explore the narrow streets, waterfront and restaurants at a more leisurely pace.

Discovering One of Cornwall’s Least Touristy Harbours If you had to make a shortlist of the West Country’s finest attributes, then the peninsula’s harbour towns and villages would be near the top. You only have to visit our seaside venues at any time of the year nowadays to know that is the case. Some of the prettiest havens are nowadays filled with visitors summer and winter. Which, to many of us, immediately begs the question… Which are the least visited most untouristy communities by the sea? There aren’t many left, specially down in Cornwall. But I do know of one harbour that has not been turned into a maritime theme-park for the visitors - and I was lucky enough to spend a couple of nights in its wonderful environs recently. SEE OTHER PLACES TO STAY ON THE NORTH CORNISH COAST HERE Portreath: A Rare Un-touristy Haven in Cornwall When it comes to popular Cornish seaside destinations, Portreath has never been top of anyone’s wish-list. Why not? Well, to put it bluntly, this was very much a working harbour. Coal in, copper and tin out. As such, it was not treated with much respect by the people who’ve run the place down the centuries. The mining industry required Welsh coal to power its pumps and whatever, and this was the ideal port through which the black stuff could be imported. Once the coal-yards and ore had gone, the post-industrialised state of the place lent itself to a cheap land-grab by the local authorities, who bunged up inexpensive housing here as an overflow option for nearby Camborne and Redruth. It is the only harbour I know of, in either Cornwall or Devon, that is almost entirely surrounded by a low-cost housing estate. But, in a funny way, this less-than-scenic mix of concrete and cheap-build has helped save the place from the ravishes of tourism. To such an extent that I’d now say that Portreath is one of my favourite seaside towns in Cornwall. It is the only port ‘down west’ that has been subjected to almost zero commercialisation. It has a truly fabulous beach. And it has a soul. Staying in Portreath: The Basset Arms Reborn Which brings me to the hostelry where my wife and I had the good fortune to stay recently. When I first heard that the old Basset Arms, situated just a stone’s throw from the beach at Portreath, had been taken over by the folk from the famous Carbis Bay Estate, I thought perhaps this was the first sign the old coal-harbour was about to go through the process of becoming gentrified. After all, Carbis Bay is what you’d call “high-end”. Prime ministers and American presidents get to stay in the likes of Carbis Bay. And, indeed, the team has brought the brand’s well-known levels of quality and service to Portreath. But… And it is a big but… The small and modest Basset Arms has not been converted into the kind of watering-hole where only the rich need apply. Instead, this historic, end-of-terrace, hostelry has been upgraded into something which could be best described as a very good community pub. It welcomes locals who come in to play darts and pool. It caters for local folk who fancy a meal out at a price that will not break the bank. And it greets Coast Path walkers to stay in its comfortable rooms, located above the busy bar. A Community Pub with Real Cornish Warmth I loved our visit to the Basset Arms. It suited this old journalist to a tee. The staff were wonderfully friendly, nothing was too much trouble. One night we were there, they were preparing their weekly ‘pie, pint and pudding night’, and of course I was more than happy to consume whatever was on offer. It turned out to be the best beef and ale pie I have enjoyed in a long time (superb pastry) and the apple pie hit the same high mark. Quality pie-and-mash, apple-pie and a pint of Tribute all for £21? That’ll do nicely, thank you. I have seen similar elsewhere costing twice as much. The lovely duty-manager, Jody, told me that the majority of diners in the pub that night (it was just about full) were locals, many of whom had come the short distance down from Camborne or Redruth. There was a certainly a jolly buzz about the place. Walking the Coast Path from Portreath The next morning we went for a long and wonderful walk along the coast path west of Portreath which, much to my delight, allowed me to discover a section of the long distance trail I’d never visited before. Why Carbis Bay Invested in Portreath So… The Basset Arms, now refurnished as a kind of annex to the much-celebrated Carbis Bay Estate… What’s all that about? To find the answer I talked to co-owner Kelly Barker, who wasn’t difficult to find as she was waitressing on the pie-and-pint night. She was able to tell me how it was that one of the top hospitality outfits in the South West had decided to invest in the old coal-harbour town. For a start, Kelly is a fan of the concept of community. It was she who first came across the main seaside cafe at Portreath and decided with her friend Stephen Baker, owner of the Carbis Bay Estate, to purchase the lease and run it as a community-led diner. Which she has been doing successfully for the past couple of years. When the lease of the pub, just 100 metres away from the Pod Cafe, came up for grabs earlier this year, it seemed like an obvious extension. READ OUR FULL REVIEW OF CARBIS BAY HERE “We took over the lease at the end of April and opened the doors on the 29th of July. The whole place needed a complete refurbishment. When we took over, we didn’t think it was going to be quite as much work, but there really wasn’t a halfway house - we had to do it all,” Kelly told me. “And do it sympathetically. We wanted to keep some of the character of what was here before. Having said that, everything needed doing, from the plumbing to the electrics. Every single wall upstairs was taken down. At one point, there were holes through the floor when I was showing potential future staff around!” I observed that the good thing was they’d kept the place a proper pub. “Yes, that was always our intention,” she replied. “There were so many rumours: ‘It's going to be flats,’ ‘It's going to be a posh dining restaurant,’ but we just tried to reiterate, ‘No, it’s going to still be a pub.’ Keeping Portreath Local “We want it to be a community pub, just like the cafe. It’s community-led. We want people to come in, celebrate birthdays, special occasions, get-togethers, and make memories. We wanted it to be very much food led, though, so we really wanted that to be the driving force of the business. “Stephen decided it was a good thing to branch out because that’s what makes Carbis Bay so wonderful - a businesses that branches out with multiple income streams which all support one another. You’ve got a network of staff who can move around the different venues. That’s what we’ve tried to do here in Portreath - we have staff who work in both the pub and the Pod Cafe.” The Basset Arms relationship with the venues at Carbis Bay means that coast path walkers can take advantage of special deals which allow them to stay a night at Portreath, then hike on to the Gannet Arms situated above Carbis Bay. Indeed, we enjoyed a superb lunch at the Gannet Inn while on a tour of the area. A Pub with Heart and Community Spirit I was taken by Kelly’s affection for Portreath. “It has a soul,” she told me. “It has plenty of characters who come in and have a chat. We have all these lovely people who come in on a regular basis - so it’s very much a community pub. If they have a TR postcode or a PL postcode they get 10% discount as well. “So we’re trying to support locals. At the same time we must keep up the quality. We’re able to keep up a consistency, thanks to the chefs and the calibre that comes from Carbis Bay. So there’s a real focus on using the right supplier - being as local as we can and using as much seasonal produce as possible. What we’re doing here is hearty pub food.” Hearty is the word. Warm and hearty would be even better. So if you’re in Cornwall take a trip down the old mining valley from Redruth and enjoy the superb sandy beach, before having lunch or supper in the Basset Arms - and maybe even stay a night or two in the newly revamped rooms. You stand a good chance of seeing Cornwall at its best. To find out more visit https://bassetarms.co.uk/ Portreath Rich In History Colliers were calling at Portreath until just 50 years ago, but if you’d visited 70 or 80 years before that, you’d have found the three linear basins packed with shipping. There are old photos of the dock in its heyday depicting mountains of coal strewn across the yards alongside piles of copper-ore from the neighbouring mines. Portreath used to be called Bassett’s Cove after the family who, for nine centuries, held title to the neighbouring manor at Trehidy. They helped develop the extensive mineral workings in this corner of Cornwall. Until 1809 Bassett's Cove was just a fishing village, but exports of copper were beginning to change the area’s fortunes. It was in that year that a tramway - one of the earliest railways in Britain, and the first in Cornwall - was opened linking Portreath to the St Day mine some five miles inland. For the next 100 years Portreath was one of Cornwall’s busiest harbours with the docks groaning under the weight of Cusgarne and Poldice copper, as well as Redruth tin, and the huge amounts of Welsh coal required to power the mines. The wild coastline must have given skippers nightmares. Portreath was not an easy port to enter, or leave. Just north of the harbour is Horse Rock and less than a mile offshore is the wedge-shaped Gull Rock - between these two the fleet would sometimes be forced to anchor for days waiting for the swell to die down. Even in light airs the Atlantic could cause problems - in the early 1800’s William Jenkin, a merchant from Redruth, counted 28 boats riding out beyond the breakers waiting to enter port. There would often be just as many ships inside the harbour waiting to leave. During the previous century this could be a very grim anchorage indeed. The tinners of the Camborne area were an infamous lot keen to supplement their meagre wages with a bit of wrecking. On Christmas Eve 1751 they found a Spanish ship laden with logwood, indigo, silver coin and bullion lying wrecked in a cove called Ralph's Cupboard. Needless to say, they had the lot away and tidied up by demolishing the ship until there was nothing left. Frequently Asked Questions about Portreath, Cornwall Where is Portreath in Cornwall? Portreath is a picturesque harbour village on Cornwall's north coast, between Hayle and Porthtowan, about three miles north-west of Redruth. Once one of Cornwall's busiest industrial ports, it is now a peaceful seaside destination with a beautiful beach and dramatic coastal scenery. Is Portreath worth visiting? Absolutely. Portreath offers a wonderful combination of history, spectacular coastal views, a wide sandy beach, excellent walking and a relaxed atmosphere. Unlike some of Cornwall's better-known resorts, it retains the feel of a genuine Cornish community. Why is Portreath famous? Portreath played an important role during Cornwall's mining boom. For many years its harbour exported copper and tin from the rich mines around Redruth and Camborne. Today visitors can still see reminders of this industrial heritage alongside the attractive harbour and beach. What can you do in Portreath? Visitors can enjoy the sandy beach, explore the historic harbour, walk the South West Coast Path, watch surfers tackling the Atlantic waves, enjoy local cafés and pubs, or use the village as a base for exploring nearby attractions including Godrevy, St Agnes and Tehidy Country Park. Is Portreath beach good for families? Yes. At low tide Portreath Beach provides a large expanse of golden sand that's ideal for families, beach games and rock pooling. During the summer months lifeguards patrol the beach at designated times, making it a popular choice for safe family days out. Can you surf at Portreath? Yes. Portreath is well known among surfers, particularly during autumn and winter when Atlantic swells create excellent waves. Beginners should always check local conditions and seek advice before entering the water. Are there good walks from Portreath? Portreath sits directly on the South West Coast Path, offering spectacular walks in both directions. Walkers can head west towards Godrevy and Gwithian or east towards Porthtowan, enjoying rugged cliffs, wildflowers, seabirds and breathtaking coastal views. Where can you stay in Portreath? Accommodation ranges from holiday cottages and apartments to welcoming hotels and traditional inns. The recently refurbished Basset Arms has become one of the village's most attractive places to stay, combining modern comfort with historic character and excellent food. When is the best time to visit Portreath? Portreath is enjoyable throughout the year. Spring brings wildflowers along the cliffs, summer offers beach weather and family holidays, autumn often provides warm seas and quieter beaches, while winter showcases the dramatic power of the Atlantic Ocean. Is Portreath less crowded than other Cornish resorts? Yes. Although it's becoming better known, Portreath is generally much quieter than nearby destinations such as St Ives, Newquay or Padstow. That makes it an excellent choice for visitors looking to experience Cornwall at a more relaxed pace.

Bristol is one of those West Country cities that seems to get more interesting every time I visit. There is the harbour, of course, along with the old streets, museums, galleries and lively cultural scene. But increasingly I find myself thinking about Bristol in another way: as a very good destination for a food-and-hotel weekend. On a recent visit I had the opportunity to try the new winter menu at The River Grille, the restaurant at The Bristol Hotel, before spending the night at Hotel du Vin in the city centre. It proved to be a very enjoyable combination of good food and comfortable accommodation – and a reminder that you don't necessarily have to travel far from the West Country to enjoy a proper city break. Dinner at The River Grille, Bristol The River Grille occupies a particularly attractive position beside Bristol's historic harbour, within The Bristol Hotel. It is an elegant setting, but the food is what really interested me. My visit coincided with the launch of the restaurant's new winter menu, created by Executive Head Chef Pawel Mikolajczewski. There was an emphasis on seasonal cooking and, importantly for a restaurant in this part of the country, on produce from Bristol and the wider West Country. That regional connection is something I always like to see. It gives a restaurant a sense of place rather than making it feel as though its menu could belong anywhere in Britain. The River Grille uses local suppliers including Buxton Butchers for its meat, while the cooking combines familiar British ingredients with a touch of French influence. Brixham scallops and seasonal flavours I began with pan-seared Brixham scallops, served with a sweet butternut squash purée and a crisp of Parma ham. It was a good example of what the kitchen was trying to achieve: a relatively simple combination of ingredients, but with contrasting flavours and textures. The sweetness of the scallops and squash worked particularly well with the salty Parma ham. There was also a reassuringly seasonal feel to the dish. Brixham is only a short distance away in West Country terms, and I have always thought that seafood is at its best when a restaurant allows the quality of the fish or shellfish to do much of the talking. Duo of duck à l'orange For my main course I chose the duo of duck. This consisted of a confit duck leg alongside half a duck breast à l'orange – a classic French preparation – with Parmesan gnocchi and seasonal green vegetables. The duck was rich and succulent, while the gnocchi provided a lighter accompaniment than you might expect. IF YOU ENJOY THIS POST SEE OUR FEATURE ON GREAT PLACEs TO STAY IN NORTH CORNWALL The whole dish worked because it combined a traditional flavour – duck à l'orange – with a slightly more contemporary presentation. There was also plenty of food on the plate, which is not always the case when you eat in a smart city-centre restaurant. Staying at Hotel du Vin Bristol After dinner we stayed at Hotel du Vin in Bristol city centre. Location is one of the great advantages of this hotel. Bristol is a city that rewards exploration, and being centrally located means that many of the city's attractions, restaurants, historic buildings and harbour-side sights are within easy reach. The hotel itself is extremely comfortable and well appointed, with the sort of atmosphere that makes it a pleasant place to return to after a day – or evening – out in the city. For me, that is an important part of choosing a city hotel. A good location is useful, but you also want somewhere that feels like an enjoyable part of the trip rather than simply somewhere to sleep. Hotel du Vin certainly provided that. A very good Bristol breakfast Breakfast was another highlight. It was first-class, with good-quality food and attentive service – exactly what you want from a hotel breakfast when you have another day of exploring ahead of you. And that brings me back to the attraction of Bristol as a short break. You can arrive, stay somewhere central, enjoy a good dinner, explore the city on foot and then start the following morning with a proper breakfast before heading home. For someone living in the West Country, that makes Bristol particularly appealing: it feels like a genuine city escape without requiring a long journey. Is Bristol good for a foodie weekend? I certainly think so. Bristol has developed a reputation for having an interesting and increasingly sophisticated food scene, but it hasn't lost its connection with the West Country. That combination appeals to me. At The River Grille, for example, I could enjoy Brixham scallops and locally sourced meat alongside cooking influenced by classic French cuisine. Then, with Hotel du Vin providing a comfortable central base, the whole thing became more than simply a restaurant visit. It became a small city break built around food. And sometimes those are the best sort of breaks: a good meal, a comfortable bed, a decent breakfast and a city interesting enough to make you want to go out and explore it. Planning a Bristol food-and-hotel break The River Grille is at The Bristol Hotel on Prince Street, beside the harbour, while Hotel du Vin is in the city centre at Narrow Lewins Mead. Both are well placed for exploring central Bristol, making the combination particularly convenient for a short break. If you're looking for a West Country city break built around good food, comfortable accommodation and plenty to explore on foot, Bristol is well worth considering. FAQ Is Bristol a good destination for a foodie weekend? Yes. Bristol has an increasingly varied food scene, with restaurants ranging from sophisticated city-centre dining to independent cafés, pubs and restaurants, while its location makes it an easy West Country city break. Where is good to eat in Bristol? The River Grille at The Bristol Hotel is one option for smart dining in central Bristol, with a menu that makes use of seasonal ingredients and produce from the West Country. Where is a good place to stay in Bristol? Hotel du Vin Bristol is a comfortable, centrally located option, making it convenient for exploring the city on foot as well as enjoying its restaurants, harbour and attractions. Check our post on a wonderful hotel in the Forest of Dean

Author Martin Hesp at Cannop Ponds on the Forest of Dean There’s something magic, almost thrilling, about exploring a place you’ve heard about all your life, but never visited before - especially if the area concerned happens to be in the same region where you live. A magic and a thrill that came my way last week when I spent a couple of days in the Forest of Dean… We’d been invited to experience the excellent food and accommodation at a small boutique hotel set in a handsome little village on the edge of this historic and intriguing area - and, needless to say, it took me all of a nano-second to take up the offer. Partly because I sat there wondering why I hadn’t visited this forested area before. It’s just the other side of the older Severn Bridge and I’ve visited the neighbouring, wonderful Wye Valley many times. But the high plateau just to the east, which plays host to large areas of woodland and half-forgotten coal mines has evaded my radar. The award-winning Tudor Farmhouse Hotel, situated in the village of Clearwell, A Historic Base at Clearwell: The Tudor Farmhouse Hotel I’ve now put that little oversight to bed having stayed at the award-winning Tudor Farmhouse Hotel, situated in the village of Clearwell, where Gloucestershire’s Forest of Dean and the Wye Valley meet. It’s a former working farm, dating back to the 13th Century, converted into 20 luxurious bedrooms and suites. The restaurant, headed-up by a hugely talented chef, serves homely yet inventive and delicious dishes sourced from the kitchen garden and suppliers within a 20 mile radius. The garden at the Tudor Farmhouse Hotel, Clearwell, All well and good, then. Just my sort of place. Stylish, understated, low-key, beautifully furnished and appointed, with a truly lovely staff. And I really did enjoy the food and meeting the friendly and talented chef, Arron Christopher (see panel). Clearwell’s steep-sided valley eventually runs down to the Wye, but if you head half-a-mile up the hill from the hotel you enter the Forest of Dean proper. Which is a funny old place, in some ways. Hilltop ex-mining villages are dotted here and there, but travel just a 100 metres or so down one of their low streets and you suddenly find yourself deep in woodland. The Ancient Green Cathedral There is a particular kind of quiet that can dominate proceedings in an area of ancient tree cover - and you can sense this when you slip beneath the canopy of the Forest of Dean. Not silence so much, as a deep, resonant hush - the sort of sound and sensation that makes you instinctively lower your voice, as if entering a vast, green cathedral. Beneath the canopy of the Forest of Dean. Unlike the open moors found elsewhere in the West Country, this intriguing area offers something more grounded, intimate, with layers here there and everywhere running deep into history. It is a landscape where nature and human industry have intertwined over the centuries. You see it in the old stone walls, the half-hidden tracks of long-abandoned tramways, and the sudden, dramatic viewpoints that open up through the trees. Dramatic Vistas at Symonds Yat Rock A perfect day in the Forest is best started early, when the morning mist still hangs low in the valleys. A walk up to Symonds Yat Rock is the traditional introduction, and for good reason. Standing on that limestone crag, looking down at the great, looping horseshoe bend of the River Wye as it carves its way through the gorge, you get a sense of the scale of the grand vista that stretches into Herefordshire and Wales even if the panorama does not give you much idea of the lay of the land. The famous view from Symonds Yat Rock The great loops of the Wye are enough to confuse anyone. Stroll out on Forestry England’s aerial walkway to the actual Symonds Yat Rock and you’ll see the river both flowing towards you and then flowing away - walk a few hundred metres to the viewpoint by the excellent little log-cabin cafe and you see that the river, far below in another ravine, is flowing in an altogether different direction. The River Wye beneath Symonds Yat Rock All very confusing unless you look at a map. But dramatic. So dramatic that, during the late 18th century, the Wye Valley became the birthplace of British tourism through what was known as the “Wye Tour”. Wealthy travellers, locked out of Europe by the Napoleonic Wars, took boat trips down the river. The dramatic, limestone cliffs of Symonds Yat offered the ultimate romantic viewpoint, epitomising the “Picturesque” art movement and establishing scenic landscape appreciation as a popular leisure activity. The vast majority of the public land, ancient woodland, and major visitor car parks in the Forest of Dean - including the world-famous viewpoint at Symonds Yat Rock - are owned by the Crown and managed on behalf of the nation by Forestry England, and they’ve done a good job. It must be difficult catering for the number of people who want to visit such a famous viewpoint, but the organisation has managed to pull off the impossible without wrecking the glorious look of the place. The Wye flows in another direction under Symonds Yat Rock The Forest of Dean was designated as a royal hunting forest before the Norman Conquest of 1066. In 1938, it became the UK’s very first National Forest Park. Today, Forestry England looks after roughly 24,000 acres of this historic landscape. Leisure car parks, including those at Symonds Yat Rock, Beechenhurst, Mallards Pike, and the Forest of Dean Cycle Centre, fall under the organisation’s jurisdiction. Parking fees collected at these sites are reinvested into the conservation, wildlife protection, and maintenance of the forest trails. Off the Beaten Track: Cycling and Walking Trails But the true magic of the Forest lies away from the famous vantage points. Exploring the endless woodlands is the real joy of visiting this area - and I have to say I envied those who were doing by bicycle. The Forest of Dean is a premier cycling hub, centred around the Cannop Valley. The impressive network caters to all abilities and features a fairly flat, 11-mile Family Cycle Trail along historic, disused railway lines. There are also challenging, dedicated downhill mountain bike tracks. I plan to return with my mountain bike, but for us last week Shank’s Pony was the only choice. And walking among the towering oaks, beeches, and ancient sweet chestnuts was wonderful enough. The New Fancy Viewpoint, Forest of Dean To glean a better understanding of the lay-of-the land we visited the New Fancy Viewpoint (once the site of the old New Fancy Colliery). A short circular walk here offers spectacular 360-degree panoramic views over the Forest of Dean’s rolling canopy. Forestry England has transformed the former coal spoil heap into a scenic lookout, featuring a unique “Geomap” sculpture that illustrates the complex geology of the forest’s coalfield. Standing up there, high on the now wooded spoil heap, I had the same feeling I sometimes sense in corners of Dartmoor or Bodmin Moor. That this was once a place teeming with industry - an area where men and women once laboured hard for decades or centuries, bringing stuff out of the bowels of the earth. Tin, copper, coal. None of it came out easily. Back-breaking, exhausting, grinding work and tough, rough lives. Now there’s silence and birdsong. Cannop Ponds The Tranquil Waters of Cannop Ponds As the heat of the day intensified, a stroll around the dark, reflective waters of Cannop Ponds offered something of a respite. These two scenic lakes were originally created in the 1820s to supply water to the local ironworks. Today, they form a tranquil wetland haven within the heart of the forest. Managed by Forestry England, the ponds are renowned for their thriving birdlife - including mandarin ducks and reed warblers - and they offer cool shady banks for coarse fishing, gentle walks, and peaceful picnics under the woodland canopy. At last, the heat of the day was overtaken by a sudden thunderstorm, so we clambered into the car and did a drive around the area, taking in the old harbour at Lydney (which I intend writing about more fully soon), Cinderford and Monmouth before returning, happy and hungry, to the lovely Tudor Farmhouse Hotel. The main street at Monmouth I liked the Forest of Dean and plan on returning, next time with a mountain-bike. It’s a quiet and understated place that somehow has a completely different atmosphere and feel to anywhere else in the West Country region. It may have witnessed the birth of British tourism over 200 years ago, but I’d say it is now one of the least touristy pretty places in the whole of the South West. The cosy interior at the award-winning Tudor Farmhouse Hotel, Clearwell Dining at The Tudor Farmhouse Hotel We had such a good dinner at this wonderful, select and beautifully presented small hotel, I thought I’d have a chat with the chef Arron Christopher, whose culinary journey has brought him full circle. Raised just minutes away from the hotel, he left the Forest of Dean at 17 to pursue a career in catering. Over the next 25 years, he climbed the ranks of the fine dining world, working in highly acclaimed, multi-Rosette and Michelin-starred kitchens, including notable stints at Le Manoir aux Quat'Saisons during its one-star era, and The Vineyard in Berkshire. But eventually Arron wanted to return to his home area. A tip from his agent led him to the Tudor Farmhouse, he fell in love with the venue and the owners. “I grew up in Berry Hill, just a few minutes away, and left when I was 17 for cheffing jobs. When we had our first child, and I moved back to the area to be closer to family, but I was doing agency work - going away for weeks at a time. Then I came here and fell in love with the place straight away. I think I’ve found my forever job.” Arron's menu includes starters like Dorset crab with XO cracker, pickled cucumber and dashi and hay-baked heritage carrots with a carrot-top pesto and pickled baby carrots - mains like Herefordshire beef with wild garlic, smoked pomme purée and bone marrow or pan fried stone bass with a courgette salad, basil oil and confit cherry tomato. Desserts include Arron’s rhubarb mess with poached rhubarb, lemon balm and lime meringue and lemon and thyme posset, with a shortbread crumb and raspberry sorbet. Tudor Farmhouse Hotel has been run by Hari and Colin Fell for over 20 years, and the couple renovated the property and designed the rooms themselves. After years of investment and continual improvement, the hotel was recently awarded 4 stars from the AA guide and has become one of the best loved destinations in the area. Room rates start from £165 B&B. www.tudorfarmhousehotel.co.uk / @tudorfarmhousehotel Tasting Menu £75 Wine Pairing £40(Optional) Chef’s special tasting menu is compiled from the very freshest produce and includes an appetiser, 5 courses followed by tea & coffee with petits fours. The menu can be enjoyed with a specially chosen flight of 5 matched wines. A cheeseboard is available at an additional cost of £15 for a board for two. We also offer a pescatarian and vegetarian tasting menu. BBQ Scallop Sweetcorn| Chive| Roe| Bisque Bourcier- Martinot Vire- Clesse Recolte 2021 Isle Of Wight Tomatoes Shiso| Bloody Mary| Ewes Curd Gruner Veltliner, Federspiel Kollmutz, Erich Machherndl 2024 Sole Aster| Mussels| Samphire| Pomme Vitelotte Green KomoKabras Albarino 2024 Monmouthshire Free Range Pork Pink Lady| Turnips| Hash Cheveau Beaujolais Villages Or Rouge 2023 Chocolate Cremeux Yuzu| Ginger| Matcha Torres Floralis Moscatel Oro NV Optional Extra (£15 for two to share): Artisan Cheeses, Celery, Grapes, Pear and Ginger Chutney, Savoury Crackers Tanners LBV Port £7 per 50ml glass Coffee or tea with home-made petits fours Flight of Wines A 70ml serving of wine, or a 50ml serving of fortified wine, has been selected to accompany each dish. The wine recommendations have been selected based on their origin, characteristics and compatibility with the dishes. FAQs Is the Forest of Dean worth visiting? Yes. The Forest of Dean combines ancient woodland, spectacular viewpoints, walking trails, cycling routes, wildlife and excellent food, making it one of England's most rewarding destinations. What is the best viewpoint in the Forest of Dean? Symonds Yat Rock is the best-known viewpoint, offering dramatic views over the looping River Wye and surrounding woodland. Where should I stay in the Forest of Dean? The Tudor Farmhouse Hotel in Clearwell offers luxury accommodation, an award-winning restaurant and an ideal base for exploring both the Forest of Dean and the Wye Valley. Can you cycle in the Forest of Dean? Yes. The Forest of Dean has family-friendly cycle trails, mountain bike routes and purpose-built downhill tracks managed by Forestry England. Is the Forest of Dean good for walking? Absolutely. Ancient woodland, lakes, panoramic viewpoints and quiet trails make it one of England's finest walking destinations.

The Christmas Market in Basel, Switzerland, is sometimes regarded as one of the most enchanting and vibrant holiday destinations in Europe - nearly one million people visit the central city each year specially to see the Christmas lights and stalls. Located in the heart of the city, this festive bazaar transforms Basel into a winter wonderland, drawing visitors from all corners of the globe. Basel Christmas Market in the Medieval Old Town Basel, with its medieval city centre, provides a picturesque backdrop for the Christmas Market. The market traditionally opens in late November and runs until Christmas Eve, blending historical charm with modern festivity. The streets and squares, especially around Barfüsserplatz and Münsterplatz, are adorned with twinkling lights and festive decorations, creating a magical atmosphere. CHECK OUT OUR POST ON THE CHRISTMAS MARKET AT BERN What to Eat at the Basel Christmas Market The Christmas Market is renowned for its unique blend of traditional Swiss and contemporary crafts. Over 180 beautifully decorated stalls offer everything from handmade toys and ornaments to local artisan products. The market is also a gastronomic delight, featuring an array of Swiss treats like raclette, fondue, Basel Läckerli (a gingerbread-like biscuit), and mulled wine. Christmas at Münsterplatz and Barfüsserplatz Beyond shopping, the market offers a variety of cultural experiences. Choir performances, storytelling sessions, and a dedicated Fairy Tale Forest in Münsterplatz are especially popular with families. The Christmas Fairy Tale Forest, with its enchanting displays and activities, is a paradise for children, offering craft workshops, pony rides, and even a visit with Santa Claus. Sustainable and Eco-friendly Practices In recent years, the Basel Christmas Market has made strides in sustainability. Many stalls have adopted eco-friendly practices, reducing plastic use and offering sustainable goods. This commitment to the environment adds an additional layer of appeal for environmentally conscious visitors. Actually Christmas is taken so seriously by the Swiss in this city that Basel even boasts its own specialist shop which celebrates the midwinter festivities 365 days a years. SEE OUR POST ON OTHER CHRISTMAS MARKETS AROUND SWITZERLAND Johan Wanner: Basel's Extraordinary Christmas Shop The Johan Wanner Christmas Shop is a unique store, located in the city's charming Spalenberg area, is a treasure trove of holiday magic, attracting visitors from around the world. Founded by Johan Wanner, a renowned connoisseur of Christmas decorations, the shop offers an exquisite collection of handcrafted ornaments, nativity scenes, and festive decorations. Each item in the store is a piece of art, reflecting the craftsmanship and traditions of various cultures. The shop's interior resembles a winter wonderland, with ornaments delicately hanging from the ceiling and shelves adorned with glittering lights and decorations. From classic Swiss designs to international motifs, the diversity of the collection is astounding. If I am being really honest, I found the place just a little bit over the top, but who am I to make such observations? A gloomy old Englishman, that’s who. It has to be said, Johan Wanner's shop is more than just a retail space; it's a destination for those who love Christmas and its traditions. It's a place where the holiday spirit is alive throughout the year, offering a unique experience to those who visit. FAQ Is Basel Christmas Market worth visiting?Yes. Basel's medieval Old Town provides a spectacular setting for its Christmas markets, with festive lights, traditional Swiss food, crafts and Christmas decorations. Where is the Basel Christmas Market?The main Christmas markets are centred around Münsterplatz and Barfüsserplatz in Basel's historic Old Town. What can you eat at the Basel Christmas Market?Visitors can enjoy Swiss favourites including raclette, fondue, Basel Läckerli, roasted chestnuts and mulled wine. What makes the Basel Christmas Market special?The combination of Basel's medieval city centre, elaborate Christmas lights, traditional market stalls and festive atmosphere makes it one of Switzerland's best-known Christmas destinations. What is the Johan Wanner Christmas Shop in Basel?Johan Wanner's Christmas Shop is a specialist Christmas store in Basel selling decorations, ornaments and nativity scenes throughout the year. It is an extraordinary destination for Christmas enthusiasts. When does the Basel Christmas Market take place?The Basel Christmas Market traditionally runs during the weeks leading up to Christmas, but dates and opening times vary each year, so visitors should check the current arrangements before travelling.

Bern Christmas Markets: A Winter Wonderland in Switzerland Seasonal crowds are guaranteed in the run up to Christmas at Bern, the Swiss capital – a small but ancient city perched on a steep hill which creates a large U-shaped bend in the River Aare. Bern lends itself to Yuletide magic so much, they stage not one, but nine Christmas markets each year. There’s the Berner Sternenmarkt, right in the middle of town next to the Bundeshaus (Parliament building). This festively decorated affair has numerous chalets offering seasonal delicacies and hot beverages as well as products from local designers. My favourite was the Oscar Elch market, which takes over the Ringgenpärkli park, overlooking the river gorge. In the snow, this really is a winter wonderland. Try the hot Gløgg (Scandinavian mulled wine made from red wine, vodka and spices) and the homemade tarte flambée – a cross between a savoury tart and a pizza. Try the hot Gløgg (Scandinavian mulled wine made from red wine, vodka and spices) and the homemade tarte flambée – a cross between a savoury tart and a pizza. IF YOU'RE ENJOYING THIS POST SEE ANOTHER OF OUR SWISS CHRISTMAS ARTICLES Bern’s Medieval Arcades – The Lauben But the magic of Bern isn’t confined to the open air or the bravado of the cold. One of the city’s unsung winter heroes is its network of medieval arcades—the Lauben. These six kilometres of covered stone walkways, the longest in Europe, mean you can traverse the UNESCO-listed Old Town while protected from the Alpine elements, dipping in and out of cellar shops that seem to have barely changed in centuries. It allows for a civilised sort of shopping where one can hunt for gifts without getting damp. Handcrafted Treasures at Münsterplatz For those seeking something a trifle more contemplative than the bustle of the Parliament square, the market atMünsterplatz is a must. Standing beneath the towering Gothic spire of Bern Minster—the highest church tower in Switzerland—this gathering focuses strictly on high-quality handicrafts. There are no plastic trinkets here; instead, you find local artisans blowing glass, carving wood, or selling the region’s distinct ceramics. It feels less like a fairground and more like a gallery that has spilled out onto the cobblestones. SEE OUR POST ON THE CHRISTMAS MARKET IN BASEL Raclette and Alpine Flavours at Waisenhausplatz Of course, walking these steep streets builds an appetite, and the nose is constantly tempted. Beyond the Gløgg, the unmistakable aroma of melted cheese drifts from the Waisenhausplatz, the oldest of the city's gatherings. Here, amidst the nostalgia of wooden toys and festive baubles, one simply must pause for a Raclette. Watching the bubbling wheel of Alpine cheese being scraped over steaming potatoes and pickles is a piece of theatre in itself—and a hearty, necessary fuel for the walk back up the hill. As dusk falls and the famous Zytglogge clock tower chimes the hour, the entire peninsula seems to glow, suspended in the dark curve of the river. It is a place that doesn't just celebrate Christmas; with its ancient stone and warming fires, Bern feels as though it was built specifically for it. Bern’s Best Christmas Treats: Haselnusslebkuchen & Mandelbärli You can’t talk about Bernese sustenance without paying proper homage to the Haselnusslebkuchen. To dismiss this simply as "gingerbread" would be a grave injustice to the local bakers. Unlike the rock-hard cookies one might encounter elsewhere, the Bernese version is a revelation—curiously absent of flour and made almost entirely of ground hazelnuts, sugar, and egg whites. It is a dense, chewy, aromatic slab of joy that practically dissolves on the tongue. Often emblazoned with the city’s heraldic bear in icing sugar, it is the sort of treat that demands to be smuggled home in a suitcase, though few make it past the airport. Speaking of the city's obsession with the bear—a creature that has lent its name and image to the capital since the 12th century—you will inevitably encounter the Mandelbärli. These are small, bear-shaped almond cakes that come in flavours ranging from vanilla to chocolate and even Irish cream. They are lighter than the lebkuchen but equally dangerous to the waistline, perfect for slipping into a pocket as a fortification against the nipping wind. Savory Swiss Classics: Zibelechueche & Heisse Schoggi On the savoury front, if you have had your fill of melted cheese (if such a thing is possible), you must seek out a slice of Zibelechueche. This onion tart is the stuff of legend in Bern, usually celebrated during the November Onion Market, but happily available throughout the festive season. It is a rich, creamy, custard-like quiche that manages to be deeply comforting without being heavy—the onions rendered down to a sweet, translucent softness that pairs magnificently with a crisp glass of local Fendant wine. And finally, for a warming finish, forego the standard coffee and order a Heisse Schoggi. This is Switzerland, after all; they do not insult you with powdered mixes and water. Expect a cup of rich, melted chocolate and milk, often topped with a mountain of Schlagrahm (whipped cream) so dense you could stand a spoon in it. It is the perfect punctuation mark to a day spent wandering the cobbles. FAQ What are the best Christmas markets in Bern?Bern has several atmospheric Christmas markets, particularly around the historic Old Town, where the medieval buildings and covered arcades provide a beautiful setting for festive stalls. Is Bern worth visiting at Christmas?Yes. Bern's medieval Old Town, Christmas markets, festive lights and traditional Swiss food make it particularly atmospheric during the Christmas season. What can you eat at the Christmas markets in Bern?Visitors can enjoy Swiss winter favourites including raclette, lebkuchen and other traditional festive treats, as well as hot drinks and street food. What is Bern like in winter?Bern can be cold and snowy in winter, but its historic centre is particularly attractive at Christmas, with festive markets, decorated streets and the city's famous covered arcades. What are the best things to do in Bern at Christmas?Explore the Christmas markets, wander through Bern's medieval Old Town, visit Bern Minster, browse the covered arcades and try some traditional Swiss Christmas food. When are the Bern Christmas markets held?The Christmas markets normally take place during the weeks leading up to Christmas, but dates and opening times vary each year, so check the current arrangements before travelling.

Such a statement may well have been made on Exmoor 4,500 years ago. Ancient Man had a great liking for rocks – as edifices like Stonehenge and Cornwall’s Merry Maidens so magnificently prove to this day – but on Exmoor he came up against a slight problem. Rocks of any size are few and far between on the moors so the ceremonial loving locals had to make do with anything they could find – as the tiny standing stone in our picture proves. The ancient hill-fort at Countisbury Why Are Exmoor's Standing Stones So Small? It is part of an ancient stone circle situated not far from the lonely road that crosses the high plateau between Exford and Porlock. The 80-foot circle comprises ten standing stones and broken off stumps, and 11 recumbent stones. It’s believed, judging by the spacing, there would originally have been 43 stones, six feet apart – but half have either sunk in the soft peat, or been dragged off by farmers and road-menders down the centuries. Such is the lot of Exmoor’s ancient monuments. Look carefully around the moor and here and there you may find menhir-shaped stones incorporated in gateways and stonewalls – some older houses even have them in their large traditional open fireplaces. To see more EXMOOR WALKS click here From "Prairie-Busting" to Preservation After the invention of four-wheel drive tractors, things got even worse for the ancient remains. In the 1970s and 80s the Exmoor National Park Authority held emergency meetings because archaeologists were horrified to find that the micro-monoliths of the moor were being ploughed under. Thankfully, farmers no longer go in for prairie-busting activities – a number of agreements were set up which put a stop to further ploughing of the precious moorland. But who were the original denizens of the hills and why did they see fit to place vertically lodged stones in circles and in long straight rows? Such edifices are thought to have been the work of the people who lived here around about 4,500 to 5,000 years ago. These weren’t the old Mesolithic hunter-gatherers who’d dwelt here since the final vestiges of the last Ice Age, but members of the New Stone Age. Ruins at Larkbarrow in the heart of the moors The Flint Workers of Hawkcombe Head There is evidence of the Neolithic reign not far from the stone circle on Porlock Common – stroll around Hawkcombe Head for long enough gazing intently at the turfy ground and you are very likely to come across a shard or two of flint. You may even find the odd arrow or hammerhead hewn out of the stuff. Flint does not occur naturally on Exmoor, but it was brought all the way here by the people of the New Stone Age and shaped into tools at Hawkcombe Head. The area is known as a “napping floor” – where the Stone Age people shaped raw flint into tools - and the tools made here helped the men and women of the day clear Exmoor of its primeval forests. Farming was just beginning to find its muddy feet in the West Country. It has been estimated that, using the basic stone tools of the time, it would have taken an average sized family no less than five generations to clear just half a square mile of ground. Hard work, no doubt, but they kept hacking away at the smaller trees of the hilltops and so turned the plateaus like Exmoor, Dartmoor and Bodmin Moor into the agricultural savannahs that we now call moorlands. Explore More: If you enjoy these tales of the West Country landscape, listen to my Adventures in Journalism podcast for deep dives into regional history. The Rise of the Beaker People This disafforestation – and the odd flint here or there – is all that’s left to bear witness to several thousand years of hard labour. Archaeologists used to believe the next step in Britain’s human evolution occurred with the arrival of the so-called “Beaker People”, but this theory is now in doubt. The Beaker Folk were given the strange name because of the shape of the pottery vessels that are often found in the round graves, otherwise known as barrows. Exmoor is rich in these sepulchral humps. You can see them from the Brendon escarpment in the east of the national park, all the way to the lonely Chains in the west. Two of the best known are Joaney How and Robin How on the slopes of Dunkery Beacon. Magic, Ley-Lines, and Force Fields So much for the vague history – but what were the henges and stone rows for? No one knows. If they tell you they do, they are either lying or doing some wishful thinking. Over the years I’ve studied such things on the moor, I’ve come across all sorts of weird people who’ve theorised on the meaning of the stones. The Douser: I found a man dangling a gold ring on a silken thread over the Long Stone out on the Chains, claiming he could tell "good" stones from "evil" ones. The Ley-Line Hunters: A father and son team used copper dousing rods and maps to calculate "invisible force fields." It sounds crazy, but given that archaeologists are still uncertain how Early Man dragged the vast stones of Stonehenge from Wales to Wiltshire, they may have some sort of point. A 7,000-Year Connection The henges and rows probably had some sort of religious, sacrificial, or spiritual role. Many of Exmoor’s stone rows lead down towards springs – and some people think early man worshipped water-based gods. On the other hand, the structures may have been put in place merely to show people the way in Exmoor’s regular bouts of fog. No one knows. What we do know is that these ancient edifices remind us of who we are and where we have come from. If you find it hard to believe that we modern sophisticated people have anything to do with those early, hairy, hunter-gatherers – then you ought to know that a recent DNA survey carried out in the Cheddar area found that today’s population has nearly identical sequences to that taken from a Mesolithic skeleton found in a local cave. That man died more than 7,000 years ago and his relatives are still living in the district today. A fact worth remembering, next time you are gazing at the sepulchral stony remains on the moors. FAQ Are there ancient stone circles on Exmoor?Yes. Exmoor has numerous prehistoric stone circles, stone rows and standing stones, particularly across the open moorland. How old are Exmoor's stone circles?Many are associated with the Neolithic and Bronze Age periods, broadly dating back several thousand years. Why are Exmoor's standing stones so small?Unlike Stonehenge, Exmoor has relatively few naturally occurring large stones, so prehistoric communities appear to have used smaller stones available locally. What were Exmoor's stone circles used for?Their exact purpose remains uncertain. Archaeologists have suggested ceremonial, ritual, religious and possibly practical explanations. Where can you see prehistoric monuments on Exmoor?Ancient stones, stone rows and barrows can be found across the moor, including areas around Porlock Common, Hawkcombe Head, Dunkery and the Chains. Can you walk to Exmoor's ancient stone circles?Yes, several prehistoric monuments can be incorporated into walks across the open moorland, although some are remote and require careful navigation.

My wife thought I’d lost my last remaining marbles when I posed the question 20 years ago in a bid to come up with some plan for, what then, was a faltering career. Journalist Martin Hesp on a hike over Bodmin Moor, Cornwall After some years working as a freelance radio reporter and producer for the BBC, I’d had a bash at running my own video production company — a crazy move which saw me both make and lose money. Unfortunately, my being almost dyslexic when it comes to numbers and accounts caused me to lose more than make, so I needed to change tack before I managed to get myself into financial difficulty. Hence the seemingly bizarre idea to walk and get paid for it. Not quite as crazy as it sounds when, for long periods of your working life, you’ve made a good living out of being a freelance writer for newspapers and magazines. I had done just that for more than a decade in my younger years. Indeed, for the best part of five years I’d worked almost exclusively for one of the major national newspapers as a freelance feature writer — and it was a collection of my yellowing Guardian articles that I took with me to the Western Morning News HQ in Plymouth in 1999. “What a regional daily paper needs is a weekly country walk, illustrated with some nice photos,” is what I said to Philip Bowern, who is still my friend and colleague to this day. Amazingly — and much to my wife’s surprise — Philip agreed, and I produced a weekly walk for the WMN for over 20 years Journalist Martin Hesp attacked by seagulls while on a reporting job in St Ives, Putting the Miles In I’d like to be able to say that this totals over 1,100 different hikes, but it wouldn’t quite be true. Firstly because I picked up a dangerous illness in a jungle some years ago and spent time in hospital where the medics had to think and work hard to save my life. That six-week gap was followed almost ten years later by a major heart operation to fix the heart valve which the jungle bacteria nearly wrecked. That resulted in another 10 weeks away from the long and winding road. It’s also true to say that things like long periods of really bad weather, alongside a few other factors outside my control, have occasionally forced me to revisit and rewrite old walks done years ago. Having said that, I’ve put some miles in to the WMN walks pages — perhaps 4,000 to 6,000 miles by my (admittedly hopeless) calculations. I’ve climbed and descended the equivalent of half a dozen Mount Everests and I’ve been baked, soaked, boiled and frozen. And just once in 20 years have I got lost on a hike. I was in the middle of northern Dartmoor when a sudden fog made everything further than the tips of my fingers disappear. This was in pre-mobile-phone days so I had no satellite positioning aid — and, I’m sorry to admit, no compass. You don’t really need one for 999 out of a 1,000 West Country walks, if you have a good sense of direction. I knew we were slightly to the west of the main watershed, so reasoned that any stream we could pick up would flow in the general direction towards the place where we’d parked. So by listening hard and then stumbling towards the sound of moving water, we found and followed a brook that eventually joined the River Tavy, which in turn took us back to within 50 metres of my car. Travel writer Martin Hesp hiking with two lurchers “That’s Put the Kibosh on That Then, Hespie” The first real hitch in my walks-writing career came in the form of a terrible thing which had serious ramifications for a great many careers and businesses. Nearly mine, but not quite. When the foot and mouth outbreak hit in 2001, WMN editor Barrie Williams called me in and said: “That’s put the kibosh on that then, Hespie. The countryside is closed so we can’t even reprint some of your previous walks. We don’t want to frustrate readers by suggesting walks they can’t do — so for the time being your goose is cooked.” I don’t often think fast on my feet — not successfully anyway — but on this occasion I managed a career-saving: “On the contrary Barrie… People need places to walk more than ever, now the countryside is closed. I’ll do town and city walks. There are plenty of town trails and both the readers and the good burghers of such places will be chuffed.” They were. Or so it seemed. I believe that to be true because eventually Mr Williams presented me with an offer I couldn’t refuse. By then the WMN was paying me a freelance rate to write all manner of news features and columns and Barrie suddenly announced that he was fed up with “haemorrhaging money like water” in my direction. The choice was to either quit freelancing for the paper altogether, or become a fully-fledged staff member. I took the latter option and still have the official letter of employment in which Barrie said he was pleased “to make an honest man” of me. It also states that I would never be expected to work from a company office — which explains why I only darken the WMN doors about once in every two years. “No good newspaper story was ever found inside a newspaper office,” is what Barrie said, when I pointed out that I lived (and still live) 96 miles from WMN HQ. Flying ants on Brown Willy in Cornwall Flying Ants, Rutting Stags, and Good Companions And so the walks continued — and still do all these years later. During the 20 years I have been attacked by dogs just three times, I have been almost overwhelmed by the stench of a dead whale rotting on a remote Devon beach, almost choked by a vast thick cloud of flying ants on the very top of Brown Willy, dodged pheasant shot several times, avoided ranting nutters on at least four occasions and ducked to escape flying golf balls twice. I once made my elderly mother and father wade through an icy Dartmoor stream having discovered a footbridge was down on a rapidly darkening winter’s afternoon. On another occasion I watched with alarm as a friend who’d just had a heart operation turned white on the slopes of Golden Cap. A friend and I once flirted with pneumonia after we’d rescued a drowning ewe from a raging Exmoor river. And, also on Exmoor, I once came face to face with a rutting stag in the gloaming. As he galloped at me I thought my end had come, until he suddenly veered away and shot off through the woods. People often ask if they can join me on my newspaper hikes and so I’ve walked with international business consultants, out-of-work printers, blacksmiths, computer analysts, airline pursers, writers, farmers, surfing-instructors, acorn pickers, famous actors, housewives, WI members, drug addicts, alcoholics, CEOs, PR people, TV executives, teachers, male poets and one very beautiful female poet. I must have had more than a dozen enquiries from publishers asking if I’d consider making the walks into a book, and one day I will. A Top Five West Country Shortlist I have lost count of the times people have asked me to name my favourite West Country walk, or the equal number of times I’ve had to say something about that being mission impossible. Walks are like music or food. One day you’ll be in the mood for a particular dish or tune — the next you might want something more spicy or perhaps more calming. If I had to go for a shortlist of, say, five great West Country hikes I’d divide the region up and go for: The splendour of the multi-level Woody Bay to Hunter’s Inn and Heddon’s Mouth hike on the Exmoor coast; The glories of the Otterton, Budleigh, Ladram Bay, High Peak circular on the East Devon coast; The Dr Blackall’s Drive hike in a fabulous part of Dartmoor; The Fowey, Hall Walk, Lantic Bay circular on the South Cornish coast; and The circumnavigation of St Mary’s in the Isles of Scilly. Walkers approach the red cliffs of Ladram Bay, Devon But if you came back to me with suggestions for better walks I’d probably agree with you. My lists are hardly written in soft Exmoor shale, let alone in hard Dartmoor granite. The thing is to be enthusiastic about all the walks which you end up following and writing about. Consistency and Rapport Which is sometimes tougher than you may think. People often say they’d like my job — and some even occasionally tell the editor they could do a better job. I’m sure they could. But for how long? Writing any series of articles without a break, week-in, week-out for 20 years, is a proper job of work. Doing a couple of dozen, then running out of steam is not what a newspaper editor wants. What they need is for correspondents to have consistency — and a rapport with the readers. I don’t know if either the newspaper bosses, or the Grim Reaper, will let me do the walks for the next 20 years — but I can say I’d like to give it a damn good bash. Remaining upright and walking through beautiful countryside is as good as life gets — and to be paid for doing it is a lottery-winning ticket if ever I heard of one. Heddon's Mouth on the Exmoor coast

A walker admires North Cornwall's Bedruthan Steps beach from the National Trust area on the clifftops There are two very good reasons for visiting North Cornwall. One is to see the place. The other is to walk it. I've been doing both for decades, and over the years I've stayed in quite a few Cornish hotels, holiday houses and other places that make particularly good bases for exploring the coast on foot. So this isn't intended to be a list of accommodation picked from a brochure. These are places I know from personal experience — and, importantly, they are places where you can combine a comfortable stay with some genuinely excellent walking. North Cornwall is particularly good for this. From the enormous Atlantic beaches around Newquay and Watergate Bay to the cliffs, coves and headlands around Bedruthan, Polzeath and the Camel estuary, there are some extraordinary walks packed into a relatively small area. Walkers find their way to Hollywell Beach near Newquay Here are some of my favourites. Watergate Bay Hotel Best for: dramatic Atlantic scenery, beach life and easy access to some of North Cornwall's finest coastal walks I've stayed at the Watergate Bay Hotel a couple of times, and one of the things I particularly like about it is that you don't have to get back into the car to start enjoying the coast. The hotel sits above the great sweep of Watergate Bay, just north of Newquay. The Watergate Bay Hotel It's an excellent place to stay if you want a mixture of comfortable accommodation, good food, beach and serious coastal walking. And some of the finest walking country in North Cornwall is only a few miles away. One of my favourite walks takes in Bedruthan Steps, Park Head and Porth Mear. Bedruthan Steps is one of the most dramatic stretches of coast in England. The cliffs are enormous, the sea stacks spectacular and the whole place has the quality of a gigantic natural amphitheatre. The beach at Bedruthan Steps But don't just stand at the National Trust viewpoint and take a photograph. When conditions allow, you can descend the steep staircase to the beach and explore beneath the cliffs before climbing back up and continuing north along the coast path. The walk eventually reaches Park Head before turning inland and dropping into the beautiful valley of Porth Mear — one of my favourite places in Cornwall. The second walk I've written about begins at Porthcothan and makes a longer circuit through the countryside before eventually reaching the Bedruthan area. That walk is about seven miles and has a different character. There are quiet lanes, farms, streams and valleys before the landscape suddenly opens up into the great Atlantic scenery. It's a particularly good reminder that North Cornwall isn't simply beaches and cliffs. Behind the spectacular coast lies a fascinating working landscape — and one that is valuable for wildlife too. The Trescore Islands near Porthcothan The walking advantage Watergate Bay is a particularly good base if you want hotel comfort without sacrificing access to wild coastal scenery. You can spend the day walking the cliffs, return for a shower and a meal, and still have the Atlantic immediately outside your window. Read more: Watergate Bay: a great place to stay for walks on the North Cornwall coast View from room at Watergate Bay St Moritz Hotel, Polzeath Best for: a classic North Cornwall seaside base with superb walking around the Camel estuary The St Moritz Hotel occupies a particularly attractive position above Polzeath and Daymer Bay, in one of my favourite parts of North Cornwall. This is an area where you really can leave the car behind for a while. The St Moritz Hotel on the Camel Estuary The South West Coast Path is close at hand and there are walks taking you around the great headlands above Polzeath, along Daymer Bay and towards the Camel estuary. It's the sort of landscape that rewards exploration because the scenery changes dramatically over relatively short distances. One minute you can be looking out across the Atlantic from high cliffs; the next you're walking beside the sheltered waters of the Camel. And then there is Pentire Point and The Rumps. This is one of the great walks of North Cornwall. Pentire Point looms above Polzeath Beach The enormous Pentire headland guards the mouth of the Camel, while The Rumps forms a dramatic twin headland beyond it. The coast path makes a wonderfully satisfying circular walk here, with huge views over the estuary and out towards the Atlantic. The Rumps also contains the remains of an Iron Age cliff castle, while the Pentire headland has a memorial to the poet Lawrence Binyon, who wrote For the Fallen here. The landscape is beautiful, but it also has a fascinating history. One of the things I like about the St Moritz is that you can combine this kind of walking with a proper seaside break. Polzeath, Daymer Bay, Rock and the Camel estuary are all within easy reach. The walking advantage This is a particularly good choice if you want several different types of walk within easy reach — exposed Atlantic cliffs, sandy beaches, estuary paths and countryside. Daymer Bay at low tide Pendeenah, Polzeath Best for: a large, stylish self-catering house with spectacular coastal views Pendeenah is rather different from the hotels in this list. My wife and I stayed here for a few days in winter and found it an extraordinary place. It is an upside-down house, with the bedrooms downstairs and the main living areas upstairs. The reasoning is obvious once you get inside. The super light upper floor of Pendeenah, a luxury holiday home in Polzeath The upper floor is flooded with natural light and has enormous windows looking towards the coast. From the house you can look towards Pentire Point and the Atlantic beyond. Pendeenah is part of the Latitude50 collection of holiday properties around Polzeath, Rock, Daymer Bay and Port Isaac. These aren't conventional holiday cottages. Many are substantial, architect-designed properties intended for groups and families. Pendeenah sleeps up to ten people, making the economics rather different from a hotel. Split between several couples or a family group, a high-end house can become surprisingly reasonable. View across the Doom Bar from a poin t close to Pendeenah But the real attraction for walkers is the location. The South West Coast Path is only a short distance away and the Pentire Point and The Rumps circular walk is virtually on the doorstep. During our stay we also walked along the estuary towards Rock and crossed over to Padstow by ferry. At low tide there is another option: walking across the sands around Daymer Bay, although tide conditions obviously need to be taken into account. There is also the chance to visit St Enodoc Church and the grave of John Betjeman, tucked away beneath the golf course at Trebetherick. The walking advantage Pendeenah is the choice for people who want a walking base for a group or family rather than a hotel room — particularly if views, space and self-catering matter. Read more: Winter Week in Polzeath: staying at Pendeenah and walking Pentire Point and The Rumps The view from the beach at Polzeath The Headland Hotel, Newquay Best for: combining a grand Cornish hotel with dramatic coastal walking Newquay might not immediately sound like a walking destination. It is, after all, one of Cornwall's best-known seaside resorts, famous for surfing, beaches and summer crowds. But walk away from the centre and a different Newquay emerges. I've stayed at the Headland Hotel a couple of times and it makes a particularly good base for discovering that side of the town. The Headland Hotel, Newquay The hotel itself occupies a spectacular position above Fistral Beach, and from here you can join the South West Coast Path and explore the headlands around Newquay. The contrast is part of the appeal. You can spend the morning walking above Atlantic cliffs and around beaches and rocky coves, then return to the comforts of a substantial Victorian seaside hotel. The Headland also provides an excellent starting point for exploring further afield. Watergate Bay is only a short distance along the coast, while the quieter beaches and cliffs around Porth and beyond provide plenty of opportunities to escape the busiest parts of Newquay. Fistral Beach, Newquay, with the Headland Hotel above The walking advantage The Headland is particularly good for anyone who likes the idea of a traditional grand seaside hotel but wants proper coastal walking close by. You get the drama of the Atlantic without having to sacrifice the restaurants, shops and other attractions of a major Cornish resort. Headland Hotel, Newquay, in winter Which North Cornwall base should you choose? For me, the answer depends on what sort of break you're after. For hotel comfort and spectacular Atlantic scenery: Watergate Bay. For traditional seaside atmosphere and a superb variety of coastal walks: St Moritz, Polzeath. For a group or family wanting a large, stylish self-catering property: Pendeenah. For a grand seaside hotel combined with the attractions of a resort: The Headland, Newquay. The harbour at Newquay What links all four is that they aren't simply places where you can sleep at night. They put you in the landscape. And that's really what I look for when choosing somewhere to stay in Cornwall. A good hotel is all very well. A beautiful holiday house is even better. But give me somewhere where I can walk out of the door, pick up the coast path and spend the day following the Atlantic — and I'm interested. The shoreline at Bedruthan Steps More North Cornwall walking There is plenty more on this website for anyone planning a walking holiday in the county, including my walks around Tregardock Beach, the Polzeath/Pentire Point area and the spectacular coastline around Bedruthan Steps and Porth Mear. North Cornwall is one of those places where you can return again and again and still find another headland, another cove or another stretch of coast path worth exploring. And after all these years, I'm still doing exactly that. Bedruthan: Read our post about Bedruthan Steps and other Cornish beaches. Porthcothan: Read our post about some of the Best Cornish & Devon Beaches Polzeath:Read about walking Pentire Point and The Rumps from Polzeath Holywell:Read my walk around Holywell Bay near Newquay The Huers' Hut in Newquay Frequently Asked Questions Where is the best place to stay in North Cornwall for walking? There isn't one answer because it depends on the sort of walking you enjoy. Watergate Bay is excellent for dramatic Atlantic coast walks around Bedruthan and Porth Mear, while Polzeath gives access to Pentire Point, The Rumps, Daymer Bay and the Camel estuary. Newquay is another good option if you want coastal walking combined with the attractions of a major seaside resort. What are the best coastal walks in North Cornwall? Some of my favourites include the coast around Bedruthan Steps and Porth Mear, Pentire Point and The Rumps near Polzeath, and the coastal paths around Newquay and Watergate Bay. North Cornwall has an exceptional variety of cliffs, beaches, headlands and estuary scenery. Is Watergate Bay a good base for a walking holiday? Yes. Watergate Bay is particularly well positioned for exploring the coast around Bedruthan Steps, Park Head and Porth Mear, while the beach and hotel provide somewhere comfortable to return to after a day's walking. Is Polzeath good for walking? Very much so. Polzeath is close to some outstanding coastal walking, including Pentire Point and The Rumps. There are also walks towards Daymer Bay, Rock and the Camel estuary, making it possible to enjoy several very different landscapes from the same base. Can you walk from Newquay along the coast? Yes. Newquay has access to the South West Coast Path and several excellent coastal walks around the town and its beaches. Staying at the Headland Hotel is particularly useful if you want to combine a traditional seaside hotel with easy access to the cliffs around Fistral and the surrounding coast. Is North Cornwall good for a walking holiday? North Cornwall is one of the best parts of the county for a walking holiday. The coastline combines dramatic cliffs, sandy beaches, secluded coves, headlands and estuary landscapes, while the inland countryside provides quieter alternatives when the coast is busy. Are these places recommendations based on personal experience? Yes. The accommodation featured in this article comes from places I have stayed at or written about from personal experience, while the walks are based on routes I have actually walked over many years of exploring Cornwall.