Grenada Travel Guide: Exploring the Spice Island of the Caribbean
- Martin Hesp
- Jul 27, 2020
- 9 min read
Updated: Aug 27
It’s pouring with rain here in South West England and, for a moment, I find myself dreaming of the Caribbean.
Grenada comes to mind.
It is a long time since I was there, although I remember seeing the island one fine day not that long ago from afar. But the memories remain unusually vivid because Grenada is one of those Caribbean islands that seems to offer rather more than beaches and sunshine. It has the beaches you expect from a Caribbean holiday, particularly beautiful Grand Anse, but there is much more to Grenada travel than lying on the sand.
It is spectacularly green, mountainous and fragrant with spices. There are rainforest waterfalls, old forts, fishing villages, cocoa plantations, rum distilleries and, of course, Grand Anse — one of those beaches that looks almost suspiciously perfect.
But what I particularly remember about Grenada is that it felt like a real place rather than a resort manufactured for visitors.
That may be the greatest attraction of all.
Why Grenada feels different
Grenada is sometimes called the Spice Isle, and the name makes perfect sense once you start travelling around it.
Nutmeg, mace, cinnamon, cocoa and other tropical crops have long been part of the island's agricultural life. But this isn't simply something preserved for tourists to look at. You can still encounter the farms, processors, chocolate makers, distillers and local businesses that make the island's food culture so distinctive.
And then there is the landscape.
I've written about a number of Caribbean islands over the years — you can explore my Caribbean travel stories here.
The south of the island is where much of the visitor activity is concentrated, particularly around Grand Anse and the capital, St George's. But head inland and the roads climb rapidly into thick rainforest, while the north and east feel considerably quieter and more rural.
That contrast makes Grenada particularly rewarding if, like me, you enjoy hiring a car and simply seeing where the road takes you.
Grand Anse: Grenada's great beach
Grand Anse is the obvious place to start.
It is a long sweep of pale sand on the south-west coast, backed by hotels, restaurants and beach businesses but still sufficiently spacious to avoid feeling like a single enormous resort.
When I visited, I was staying at Blue Horizons Garden Resort, set among tropical gardens on the hillside behind the beach.
It was a very different experience from staying directly on the sand, but I loved the combination of gardens, birds, hillside views and the easy access to the sea.
And I did manage one memorable meal at the beachside restaurant of the much grander Spice Island Beach Resort.
Grand Anse is also perfectly positioned for exploring St George's, which lies around the headland.
St George's: one of the Caribbean's great little capitals
St George's is a town I would strongly recommend exploring rather than simply looking at from the deck of a cruise ship.
The red roofs, steep streets and horseshoe-shaped Carenage give it an immediately recognisable appearance.
It is busy, colourful and sometimes slightly chaotic — in other words, it feels alive.
I remember wandering through the market and being shown where I could buy a freshly made roti, a Caribbean curry-filled flatbread. The woman selling it even let me sit in her seat while I ate and somehow managed to keep the more persistent hawkers away from me.
That is the sort of encounter that stays with you.
The town also has museums and historic buildings worth seeking out, while the old forts above St George's provide some of the best views across the harbour and surrounding coastline.
Today, St George's remains one of the essential stops on any first visit to Grenada.
Into Grenada's rainforest
After a couple of days acclimatising around Grand Anse, we headed north in a four-wheel-drive hire car.
Grenada is not enormous, but its mountainous interior makes it feel much larger once you leave the south-west.
One of our journeys involved hiring a local guide and walking into the rainforest to find a waterfall. It was hot. It was sweaty. And it was absolutely fascinating.
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The vegetation seemed to become more luxuriant with every step, until the whole experience felt rather like taking a near-vertical stroll through a tropical version of Kew Gardens.
Grenada has numerous waterfalls, including Annandale, Seven Sisters, Concord and Royal Mount Carmel, while the mountainous interior around Grand Etang is one of the island's great natural attractions.
The point isn't simply to tick off a waterfall.
It is to experience the extraordinary change in landscape that takes place when you leave the beaches behind.
Grand Etang and the green heart of Grenada
We eventually crossed the central mountain range through the Grand Etang Forest Reserve.
At around 2,500 feet above sea level, I rather naively expected the temperature to become distinctly cooler.
It didn't. This is still the Caribbean.
But the forest was magnificent, and the volcanic landscape gives the interior a completely different character from the coast.
Grand Etang Lake sits among the mountains and rainforest, and the surrounding area is an excellent reminder that Grenada is much more than a beach destination.
If you enjoy walking, wildlife and dramatic scenery, this is the side of the island that deserves time.
The Spice Isle: nutmeg, cocoa and rum
Grenada's food story is one of the reasons I find the island so appealing.
The island's famous nutmeg industry suffered enormous damage during Hurricane Ivan in 2004, but agriculture has remained an important part of Grenadian life.
I remember visiting places where the processing of spices was still a very hands-on affair.
One particularly interesting stop was De La Grenade, where I learned more about the nutmeg fruit itself — including the fact that the fleshy material surrounding the nut and mace needn't simply be thrown away.
It can be turned into products such as syrup.
That sort of ingenuity is much more interesting to me than a sanitised tourist display.
Grenada's cocoa industry is equally fascinating, and today visitors can explore working estates and chocolate producers as part of the island's growing food tourism scene.
Then there is rum.
A visit to a traditional distillery such as River Antoine offers a glimpse of an altogether older Caribbean industrial tradition, with its historic water-powered machinery still central to production.
This is one of those places where the story is every bit as interesting as the drink.
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Petite Anse: my northern Grenada memory
Eventually our journey took us to the far north of the island and to the lovely Petite Anse resort.
It had been developed by an English couple, Philip and Annie Clift, and I remember being completely seduced by the setting.
The hotel sat among tropical gardens with sweeping views across the Caribbean towards Carriacou and the Grenadines.
What can I say about it?
Well, put it like this: when my novel writing finally pays dividends with some kind of Hollywood deal — in my dreams — Petite Anse is the sort of place where I imagine escaping when the British winter becomes too cold and wearisome.
The views. The style. The sounds of the rainforest.
The crash of the warm sea.
The cooling, scented inter-island breeze.
Some places simply get under your skin.
A note for today's traveller: this is a memory of my visit rather than a current hotel review, so check the present-day status of any accommodation before making plans.
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Sauteurs and the north of Grenada
On our way back south we passed through Sauteurs, a small town at the northern end of the island.
The area is associated with the tragic history of the indigenous Carib people, and the dramatic cliffs around Sauteurs are a reminder that Grenada's story did not begin with European colonisation or the arrival of tourism.
The island has a complicated history involving indigenous peoples, French and British rule, slavery, independence and the political upheavals of the twentieth century.
That history is worth understanding because it adds another dimension to what otherwise might appear to be simply a beautiful tropical island.
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Grenada's other islands: Carriacou and Petite Martinique
One thing I would emphasise more strongly today than I did when I originally wrote this article is that Grenada is not just one island.
The country consists of Grenada itself, Carriacou and Petite Martinique.
Carriacou has a distinctly different atmosphere from the main island, with places such as Hillsborough and Tyrell Bay, quieter beaches and a remarkable tradition of wooden boatbuilding.
Petite Martinique is smaller again and considerably more low-key.
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Both islands suffered badly from Hurricane Beryl in 2024, particularly Carriacou and Petite Martinique, and their recovery is an important part of the more recent Grenadian story.
For today's visitor, I would regard Carriacou as a destination in its own right rather than something to squeeze into a hurried day trip. Allowing a couple of nights makes far more sense if your schedule permits.
It is another reason why Grenada works so well for travellers who like to explore rather than simply stay beside a swimming pool.
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Is Grenada still worth visiting?
Absolutely.
In fact, the thing that attracted me to Grenada all those years ago remains the thing I like most about it.
It feels varied.
You can spend the morning swimming at Grand Anse, wander around St George's in the afternoon, drive into the rainforest the following day and then find yourself eating chocolate or visiting a rum distillery before sunset.
The island has become more developed since my visit, and tourism is clearly growing. There are more luxury hotels and more sophisticated visitor experiences than there once were.
But Grenada has not lost the combination of landscape, agriculture, food, history and everyday Caribbean life that made such an impression on me.
And that, rather than simply the sunshine, is why I would recommend it.
Frequently asked questions about Grenada
What is Grenada famous for?
Grenada is best known as the Spice Isle because of its long association with nutmeg, mace and other spices. It is also famous for Grand Anse Beach, its rainforest and waterfalls, St George's, cocoa and chocolate, traditional rum production and excellent diving.
Is Grenada good for a first Caribbean holiday?
Yes. Grenada is small enough to explore relatively easily but varied enough to offer beaches, mountains, rainforest, history, food and culture. It is particularly good for travellers who want more than an all-inclusive beach holiday.
What is the best beach in Grenada?
Grand Anse is the island's best-known beach and one of its major attractions. It combines a beautiful long sweep of sand with easy access to accommodation, restaurants and other facilities.
Is Grenada just a beach destination?
Definitely not. The mountainous interior, Grand Etang, rainforest walks, waterfalls, spice and cocoa estates, rum distilleries and historic St George's are all reasons to leave the beach.
Can you visit Carriacou as part of a Grenada holiday?
Yes. Carriacou is part of the country of Grenada and can be reached from the main island by sea or air. I would allow at least two or three nights if you want to experience it properly rather than rushing through on a day trip.
When is the best time to visit Grenada?
The drier months from roughly January to May are generally the most reliable for sunshine, although Grenada can be visited throughout the year. The wetter months bring greener landscapes but also require greater awareness of tropical weather and hurricanes.
Why is Grenada called the Spice Isle?
Because spices — particularly nutmeg and mace — have played an important role in Grenada's agriculture and identity for generations. Cocoa, cinnamon and other crops also contribute to the island's distinctive food culture.
My Grenada
I first went to Grenada because I wanted to see another side of the Caribbean.
I found beaches, certainly.
But I also found rainforest, waterfalls, spices, chocolate, rum, steep streets, little fishing villages, extraordinary views and people who were prepared to stop and talk.
That is what I remember.
And perhaps that is why, on a wet day in Somerset, Grenada still has the ability to make me look out of the window and start dreaming.
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