Budock Vean Hotel and the Helford River Area The Helford River is one of Cornwall's true hidden gems – a wonderfully tranquil corner of the county where wooded valleys, tidal creeks and ancient gardens meet the sea. And there can be few better places from which to discover it than the beautiful Budock Vean Hotel. Set in 10 acres of gardens and woodland above the Helford, Budock Vean feels wonderfully removed from the busy Cornwall of summer traffic and crowded beaches. It is the sort of hotel where you can arrive, put the car keys away and immediately feel that you have stepped into a different world. The Budock Vean Hotel, Southern Cornwall I stayed at Budock Vean while exploring the Helford River and its surrounding countryside, and it proved to be an ideal base. From here you can walk down towards the river, explore the famous wooded waters of Frenchman's Creek, visit some of Cornwall's finest gardens or simply spend time enjoying the hotel and its peaceful setting. The Helford itself is a magical place. Unlike Cornwall's more famous coastal destinations, it has an intimate, almost secretive character. The river winds inland through steep wooded banks, dividing into a network of creeks and inlets that have attracted sailors, artists, writers and holidaymakers for generations. It is a landscape that deserves to be explored slowly – and Budock Vean is a particularly good place to start. What Is a Ria? Cornwall’s Unique River Valleys All Cornwall’s rias are scenic—a ria, as you’ll know, being a flooded river valley rather than a tidal estuary in the normal sense. Both South Devon and Cornwall are notable for their rias, which generally occur along rugged coastlines, formed by sea-level rises after the last Ice Age. The main clue, if you’re looking for a ria, is that although they can be extensive in themselves, they are rarely formed by large rivers. Gweek and the Scenic Helford Shoreline At the village of Gweek, for example, you’ll find quite a modest stream flowing into the tidal zone—nowhere near big enough to create the expansive fjord-like area that has nearly 25 miles of shoreline. A very beautiful shoreline, it is too, as anyone who has ever read Daphne du Maurier’s Frenchman’s Creek will imagine. The Budock Vean's secret lush gardens Frenchman’s Creek: A Walk Through Literary and Natural History This particular creek runs north-south, at right-angles to the main Helford River, and is a wonderful place to explore either by foot or by small boat—see the panel below for a description of the hike you can do around it. When the tide is high, Cornwall’s rias tend to have an Amazonian look about them. Thick woodlands line many of the banks and their branches and leaves hang low over the water. This gives a waterway like the Helford an altogether secretive and intimate feel that you will not see in large-river estuaries such as the Severn, Exe, Torridge or Taw. Frenchman's Creek Classic Comfort at the Budock Vean Hotel All special areas ought to have a special place in which to stay, and the Helford has just that… It comes in the form of the wonderful Budock Vean Hotel, where I was lucky enough to rest my head while attending the excellent fish-cookery classes at Annie Seabourne’s My Fish Kitchen. The Budock Vean is a classic and first-class example of its kind. By which I mean a largish countryside hotel set in beautiful grounds where a high level of service is guaranteed. I’ve been fortunate enough to stay there on three occasions and have never been disappointed. In fact, under its new ownership I’d say that it’s better than ever. Thinking of staying at the Budock Vean? “Nestled” is a word I no longer use because if you ask AI to write about something set in a landscape it will immediately reach for the “n” word. However, the Budock Vean really is nestled within its lovely grounds. To get a sense of this you can walk down through magnificent gardens to the hotel’s own private cove on the Helford River. It is the sort of place where time seems to slow, not in an overt way, but subtly, as if the pace of the day naturally adjusts to the surroundings. Check out our post on the Hotel Meudon nearby The pool at Budock Vean Dining and History at Budock Vean Meals are served in a splendid dining room that has views of the garden and the hotel’s own golf course, and the menu focuses on local ingredients. The rooms are spacious and comfortable and the whole place has a homely feel to it, which is exactly what you expect from a better class country-house hotel. The estate at Budock Vean has a history dating back to medieval times. The current manor house was transformed into a country house hotel and welcomed its first guests in 1933. It quickly gained recognition, attracting a clientele that included figures from the entertainment world. During WWII, it served as a restaurant for US Air Force personnel who were preparing locally for D Day. In 1987, the Barlow family acquired the hotel, managing it until its recent sale to Philema Hospitality Management, a family-owned company which has its roots in the South West. Their portfolio also includes the Boringdon Hall Hotel in South Devon, as well as the Fistral Beach Hotel and Spa and Esplanade Hotel, both in Newquay. The Budock Vean’s friendly general manager, Darryl Reburn, took me on a tour of the hotel, outlining some of the exciting plans the company has for the future, and we also visited a couple of the truly luxurious new lodges on the estate. The lovely old place looks set to be welcoming guests for a long time to come, and I hope to be among their number. Where Budock Vean's gardens meet the Helford Passage Check out https://www.budockvean.co.uk/. Walk the Literary Path – Frenchman’s Creek One of the great benefits of staying at the Budock Vean Hotel is that you are spoiled with a choice of lovely walks. One of the easiest and best known takes you to Frenchman’s Creek, although you will have to take the foot-ferry across the Helford Passage. Pure unabashed, unashamed romanticism—that's the theme of this hike. Frenchman's Creek has more of a novel's atmosphere than any other literary waterside location. If the tide is out the place literally oozes with the stuff of legend. If it’s in, then the shimmering tranquillity allows you to mentally plunge straight into the derring-deeds of Daphne du Maurier's brilliant tale. There is always something special about arriving at the beginning of a walk by boat, and to my way of thinking the Helford Passage foot-ferry provides a good dose of that sense of magic. Frenchman's Creek However, Du Maurier was a little less effusive—she wrote: “Helford hamlet was no inducement to a sailor ashore, the few cottage folk dull-witted and uncommunicative…” I’d say there is nothing dull-witted about the person who can afford one of those cottages nowadays. A lane leads along the creek, past the pub and picturesque abodes, and eventually crosses a stream at a point close to where a footpath sign points to Manaccan. We take the track through the trees until a junction allows us to turn right into Under Wood and climb the hill towards the farm called Kestle, an ancient homestead full of character situated on the ridge dividing Helford from the small valley that plays host to Frenchman's Creek. Du Maurier’s description fits the scene perfectly: “There once again was the glimmer of water that had surprised her... the creek, still and soundless, shrouded by the trees, hidden from the eyes of men.” The National Trust owns the woods along Frenchman’s Pill up to the creek, and its staff have laid a path along the waterside so we can enjoy its hidden delights. You cannot reach it by road. Eventually, the path climbs to meet a private drive. Turn right here and follow the road until you see a public footpath sign on your left. This leads down through more Trust-owned woods, ending at Penarvon Cove. Then it’s a short track back to the ferry landing-stage. Check out other places to stay in the area... Ferry Boat Inn at the Helford Passage Dinner at the Ferry Boat Inn, Helford Passage One evening when we were staying at the Budock Vean, we strolled down through the lovely grounds to reach the South West Coast Path, which took us up around the golf course and eventually to the Ferry Boat Inn for dinner. This wonderful old pub is one of my favourites in Cornwall. I can’t put my finger on exactly why, but the historic inn located right down by the waterside in Helford Passage always seems to have a busy and happy vibe. As a beer-drinker I can vouch that the ale is always very good—and as a food-lover I can say the same about the excellent pub-grub. We had a tasty fritter topped by locally cured trout and sour cream for a starter, followed by a magnificent fillet of Cornish hake and also a dish of “loaded fries” with Philip Warren beef brisket. See our post on the Polurrian Hotel just a few miles away As I say, great Cornish pub grub—and just what you need after enjoying one of the area’s many fabulous hikes. View from the Ferry Boat Inn, Helford Passage FAQ Is the Helford River worth visiting? Yes. The Helford is one of Cornwall's most beautiful rias, famous for wooded creeks, peaceful sailing waters, riverside walks and literary links with Daphne du Maurier. Can you walk around the Helford River? There are several excellent walks including Frenchman's Creek, Helford Passage, Durgan and sections of the South West Coast Path. Where is Budock Vean Hotel? Budock Vean Hotel sits above the Helford River near Helford Passage, surrounded by woodland, gardens and its own golf course. What is Frenchman's Creek famous for? Frenchman's Creek inspired Daphne du Maurier's famous novel of the same name and remains one of Cornwall's most atmospheric woodland creeks.

Looking for a luxury Mediterranean cruise? We sailed aboard the magnificent three-masted Sea Cloud Spirit on an unforgettable voyage from Naples to Malta, calling at Trapani, Palermo, Taormina and Syracuse before arriving in Valletta. Here's what it was really like to cruise around Sicily under sail, together with tips on the ports, excursions and whether this remarkable ship is worth the price. Why Cruise from Naples to Malta? If you’re going on a voyage, then the Bay of Naples makes for a pretty classic embarkation point. A great many historical figures have departed the shores beneath smoky old Vesuvius - way back in time the mythical Odysseus had his encounter with the Sirens somewhere on this coast; Roman Emperors such as Claudius and Tiberius spent time in the bay area; Admiral Nelson famously evacuated King Ferdinand IV and his court from Naples aboard his flagship, HMS Vanguard along, of course, with Sir William Hamilton and his own siren of a wife, Emma; and later the English poets Lord Byron, Percy Bysshe Shelley, John Keats all took to the sea hereabouts. So what was good for that little lot was certainly good enough for me - especially as I was embarking on a journey from Naples aboard the fabulous Sea Cloud Spirit - the three-masted sailing ship I raved about in our other Sea Cloud post. Planning a Sea Cloud Spirit cruise from Naples? Many passengers arrive a day early. Compare hotels close to Naples cruise terminal before you sail. Naples: A City of Vibrant Contrasts But first a note about Naples itself. The quote says: “when a man is tired of London he is tired of life”, but I’d prefer to use it in connection with Naples - a slightly crazy city which is loud, highly colourful and buzzing with life. I know of few other places that are quite as hot and frenzied, while at the same time being so stylish and cool. Not that I could live there, it’d be far too exhausting for an old country hick like me. But I loved our recent short stay prior to joining our cruise. I even managed to discover an excellent and inexpensive hotel situated just 50 metres from the ship’s berth (the Smart Hotel, situated on the actual quay). Our 24-hours in the city prior to embarkation included two delicious meals in local restaurants (more expensive than Naples used to be, but not bad at under £70 for two, including wine) and a ridiculously cheap shopping expedition (clothes in Italy are fabulous value). However, with the heat heading up towards 40 degrees we were very pleased indeed to board the cool, sleek and air-condition Sea Cloud Spirit come late afternoon. Gliding out of the central old port on the open air Lido Deck with its masts all its its wood and brass, with a glass of champagne in my hand at sunset, was not something I’ll forget in a hurry. Capri's Unexpected Downpour and a Mediterranean Cool Down Nor was our visit to Capri the next morning. Why? Because the heavens opened in tropical style and the rain crashed down in sheets. So forceful was the downpour, shopkeepers manning the island’s glitzy and expensive establishments were photographing the deluge and the flash flooding from the protection of their doorways. We, however, got a real soaking. Not that it bothered us much because we were soon back aboard ship and, anyway, we’ve been to Capri a couple of times before in its usual bright sunshine. The Sea Cloud Spirit off Capri with a gathering storm behind Dark storm hitting the island of Capri Streets of Capri getting wet in the storm Moreover, the giant rainstorm cleared the air across the entire region and helped cool the central Mediterranean's muggy temperatures for the rest of our trip. Discovering Trapani: Sicily's Historic Salt Trade Hub Trapani harbour Sicily After 36 hours at sea we arrived at Trapani, on Sicily’s western coast. A fascinating old place, jutting out into the sea on its own small promontory between steep mountains and dead flat salt-pans. Indeed, it’s history is based on the once highly valuable salt-trade and the harbour is still busy with fishing boats and ferries which ply to-and-fro to the nearby Egadi Islands. Like a lot of historic Sicilian ports, the old town seems to close in on itself, shrugging off the neighbouring sea and anyone who might be on it with large bastions of the local tufa stone. Seaside properties in Trapani There’s a good reason why Sicilian ports do this. Being at the centre of the Mediterranean, the large island was a target for invaders and pirates over many centuries. Trapani’s streets wind through the older sections of town, eventually opening onto more recent expansions and also the beaches of peninsula’s north coast. And high above town, the village of Erice is perched atop Monte San Giuliano and a journey up there by cable car is one of the must-do things you can enjoy in the area. It is a place of medieval walls and stone buildings clustered along narrow, cobbled paths. The vast panoramas encompass the sea, the salt-pans, the neighbouring uplands and a huge distant plain. We very much enjoyed a trip up to Erice, partly because it was a lot cooler up there. Palermo: Sicily's Vibrant Capital and Culinary Delights Next, for us, was an overnight sail around Sicily’s mountainous north-western corner to the island capital, Palermo. What a place… I’d never visited before despite the city being on my wish-list for years - a wish-list made all the more urgent recently as I watched Stanley Tucci’s 'Searching for Italy’ TV series. In one episode the actor explores Palermo’s lively markets and learns about the international influences on Sicilian cuisine. I did exactly the same thing. Indeed, I videoed exactly the same fish merchant chanting the delights of his fresh seafood - it would have been difficult to miss him! The city’s multilayered history is to be seen in the diverse architecture. Structures reflecting Norman, Arab, and Baroque styles stand alongside one another, particularly in the older districts. Palermo is a mix of wide boulevards leading to more confined areas where narrow streets set off in every direction. It’s in these narrow byways that the city’s daily life unfolds, especially in and around the open-air markets, such as the opens you find at Ballarò and Vucciria. I’ll admit to being far too addicted to these places, with all their colour and their noise, scents and savoury smells, to worry too much about Palermo's numerous churches and former palaces. In the evening we were treated to a wonderful concert aboard the Sea Cloud Spirit - as mentioned in last week’s article, four world-class musicians from the ensemble Recondite Armonia blew the 70-or-so passengers away with their musicianship. Scenic Sailing and the Straits of Messina Next was another day at sea - a particularly comfortable and scenic one as we sailed with a following wind along Sicily’s mountainous northern coast, passing between it and the Aeolian archipelago, namely Lipari (the largest island), Salina, Vulcano, Stromboli (with its active volcano puffing the occasional plume of smoke), Panarea, Filicudi and Alicudi. In his “welcome aboard” lecture the Sea Cloud Spirit’s captain had promised us he’d try to sail us down through the Straits of Messina in daylight, as the passage between mainland Italy and Sicily really is a maritime treat. But for a while it looked as though we were going to be disappointed because the authorities give ships certain time slots so that they can negotiate the strong currents and difficult waters safely. How he managed to persuade them to move forward our slot from 11pm to an early time I do not know, but he did and we passengers were grateful for it. Sailing through the Straits at sunset, with Mount Etna gently wafting red smoke from its high summit, is the kind of experience you can bore dinner guests with for decades to come. Taormina and Syracuse: Sicilian Gems The next morning we awoke moored off the port of Giardina Naxos, which really acts as the seaside annex for the well known hilltop town of Taormina. Some readers might recognise the name - it was the real-life location for the highly popular The White Lotus TV series’ second season. The luxurious San Domenico Palace, a former monastery converted into a high-end hotel, served as the fictional White Lotus resort, its historic architecture and panoramic terraces featuring prominently throughout the show. We went up to Taormina to enjoy the stunning views of the Ionian Sea and Mount Etna. The town’s layout features a central pedestrian street, the Corso Umberto, which is lined with historic buildings, shops, and cafes. Side alleys branch off, revealing more intimate squares and quieter corners. The ancient Greek Theatre, carved into the hillside, is a prominent landmark, and is still used for performances. At one end, a cable car descends to the coast, where you’ll find rocky coves and the renowned Isola Bella, a small, protected island. It is now a museum and visitor centre, but I was amused to learn it was for many years owned by the Trevelyan family, of Cornish origins. The Sea Cloud Spirit, like all cruise ships, offers excursions from its destination ports - the only difference being that the usual giant floating cities require fleets of buses and armies of guides, whereas our modest-sized vessel employed only the odd luxury minibus here or there. At Giardina Naxos local boatmen had been hired to take us around the rocky coves and show us the areas many sea-caves. Continuing your holiday in Sicily? Compare hotels across Sicily if you're planning to stay before or after your cruise. Our final Sicilian stop was the south-eastern port of Syracuse, an historic walled city if ever there was one. I say walled city, but the oldest and best known part of town is actually an island connected to the mainland by three bridges. The isle of Ortigia has a distinct character of its own. Structures from different eras stand shoulder-to-shoulder, with remnants of ancient Greek and Roman periods interwoven between, and Medieval and Baroque additions are to be seen everywhere. Basically, old Syracuse is a living museum. Which is as it should be because the place was a significant Mediterranean city for centuries. There’s no choice but to use Shanks’ Pony if you want to explore Ortigia, a compact rabbit-warren of a place made up of narrow alleys and open squares. My smart-watch said I’d done 14,000 steps by the time I’d spent the morning there. Not bad in 35-degree heat, although the deep narrow streets offer plenty of shade. Narrow streets of Syracuse The central square, though, was hot. It is dominated by the Duomo, Syracuse's cathedral, which has the columns of an ancient Greek temple hiding inside its Baroque facade. Nearby, the Fountain of Arethusa, a freshwater spring located directly beside the sea, is a natural feature and helps to explain why early sailors settled here. Onward to Malta Some of them, thousands of years ago, may have set sail for Malta in their boats. We did too, but there was nothing rudimentary about our vessel as we enjoyed a final Captain’s Dinner aboard the luxurious Sea Cloud Spirit. The 101-mile overnight journey passed with nothing more than a wine-induced hiccup or two. Exploring Malta after your cruise? Valletta makes an excellent place to spend a few extra days. FACT FILE 1: Sea Cloud Cruises Martin cruised aboard the Sea Cloud Spirit as a guest of Sea Cloud Cruises - find out more at www.seacloud.com and contact the company by emailing: info@seacloud.com Phone: +49 (0)40-30 95 92-50 - or you can reach their cruise consultancy at: cruise-consultant@seacloud.com Phone.: +49 (0)40-30 95 92-50 To get more of an idea of the cruises take a look at https://www.youtube.com/user/SEACLOUDCRUISESGmbH FACT FILE 2: Airport Parking Martin parked at Heathrow with Holiday Extras. Nine days’ parking at Maple Parking Business Meet & Greet at Heathrow Terminal 5 is available for £203.99 (based on arrival on 05/08/2025). For more information and to book, HolidayExtras.com or call 0800 316 5678. Frequently Asked Questions Is Sea Cloud Spirit a luxury cruise ship? Yes. Sea Cloud Spirit is a five-star sailing ship combining traditional square-rigged elegance with modern luxury. Guests enjoy spacious cabins, fine dining, attentive service and the unique experience of travelling under sail. Where does a Naples to Malta cruise visit? This itinerary includes several of Sicily's most fascinating destinations, including Trapani, Palermo, Taormina and Syracuse, before finishing in the historic Maltese capital of Valletta. What is special about cruising aboard Sea Cloud Spirit? Unlike most cruise ships, Sea Cloud Spirit is a three-masted sailing vessel carrying relatively few passengers. The atmosphere is intimate and relaxed, with opportunities to watch the crew set the sails by hand while enjoying exceptional food and personalised service. When is the best time for a Mediterranean cruise around Sicily? Spring (April to June) and autumn (September to October) usually offer warm sunshine, comfortable temperatures and fewer crowds, making them ideal for exploring Sicily and Malta. Is Valletta worth staying in after the cruise? Absolutely. Valletta is a UNESCO World Heritage city packed with historic buildings, excellent restaurants, museums and magnificent harbour views. Many travellers choose to spend a few extra days there after disembarking.

Tim Bannerman and family building a sandcastle at Lee Bay, on the Exmoor coast It’s been a great year for… Well, there are lots of things the hot weather has been good for, but let’s say at the start that five heatwaves and an ongoing drought have resulted in seriously bad news for many people. However, there are times when you have to look on the sunny side of life, even if the planet’s climate is getting too hot and scary. And this summer has been a great season for sandcastle building alongside other seaside activities—things you can enjoy if the rain isn’t falling in sheets and if a gale isn’t blowing. Which has so often been the case during the past few decades. So let’s be light-hearted while we can. The essential tools of sandcastle building Inspiration at Lee Bay I was reminded of the art of sandcastle building one day this week when we took our grandchildren to the little North Devon inlet of Lee Bay, just west of Lynmouth. I always think of it as Exmoor’s best beach and recently recommended it to an old friend who was holidaying locally and who wanted to take his grandchildren somewhere where they could join in with his great passion for building sandcastles. Tim Bannerman is a friend who, in some ways, changed my whole way of thinking way back when I was in my late teens. For it was this poet, actor and all-round-good-chap who did more than anyone else to convince me that life is for living to the full and not a thing you should worry about or fill with angst. Many years after I first met him (and by the time we both had kids of our own) he sent me an amazing 5,000-word treatise on the art of sandcastle building, which amused me then much as it does now. Because it somehow underlines the fact that we can all do more in the way of genuine celebration—even when it comes to something simple like sitting on a beach. CHECK OUT OUR SELECTION OF SOUTH WEST COAST PATH WALKS HERE v The Philosophy of Ephemeral Palaces In this case, most people envisage a plastic beach bucket when they think of sandcastles… Fill it with the necessary granular substance, turn it upside down, and dump it onto the beach: job done. They might put a plastic flag on it or even dig a moat around it, but that’s more-or-less as far as most sandcastle building goes. Tim does much more. He builds huge fantasy palaces whenever he’s on some foreshore with the necessary ingredient—i.e. sand that has a kind of sticking quality to it, especially when damp. As I say, he even penned a grand essay on the subject, treating the humble seaside mound as a metaphor for human existence. Which amused me because what I thought was this… Sand equals loose grains that fall apart. Castle: a building of strength. Conundrum: why is it that people are obsessed by the mad idea of forming the latter out of the former? As Tim points out, building a proper sandcastle is a race against the sun, the moon, and the pitiless, devouring sea. You wait for the moment the tide ebbs to reveal that perfect, flat expanse of sand. Then you set to work cutting away, shaping, carving, and tunnelling until a proud, noble edifice stands ready for King Arthur and Guinevere to take up residence. Then the tide comes back. By the next morning: nothing. Just flat, unblemished sand. Sandcastle enthusiast Tim Bannerman “Why do it?” asks Tim. “Because it is like life. We start small, we build our lives, our careers, our little towers of achievement. And in the end, the tide comes in. But while that castle was there, caught in that last flash of the sun, my goodness it was arresting! Touching, romantic, funny, poignant, theatrical. It is a fairy story, a pop-up book, pure theatre.“It is imagination,” he continues. “A stage whose Jean Cocteau backdrop and chiaroscuro mystery lacks only you to fill, bestride or strut and fret your hour upon it. Infinitely complex, just like life—given half a chance.” Tim even tackles the matter of architectural style, warning against going “over the top in some über Baroque, soppy Disney kind of way,” suggesting instead that a hint of Gothic, Palladian, or Gaudí adds a certain je ne sais quoi. “Just a quick thought: the ‘slightly ruined 18th-century folly look’ can come in quite handy,” he writes, recalling William Beckford, whose 300-foot-high Fonthill Abbey collapsed into rubble 12 years after it was built. “So you can always say that your castle has been dedicated to the great, if foolish, Mr Beckford in anticipation that it might come to a similar fate.” One of the Bannerman sand palaces The Master Rules For those looking to turn Tim’s philosophy into practice, he offers a few rules: The Sand: Test your beach. Dig a shovel-full to see if it holds together when squeezed and check it has depth. Grit or shallow rock will break your heart. The Tools: Ditch the flimsy plastic. You need real, flat-bottomed and pointy metal spades, plus proper garden spades for the heavy lifting. “Buckets,” Tim warns, “are good for the under-fours, but not much else if you want to avoid the Tommy Cooper fez-look to your castle.” The Technique: Pack it down. Roll up your sleeves and build a pile nearly as high as yourself. Pack it down firmly with hands and feet, then carve down vertically into the mound using a spade. For authentic crenellations? Press a finger down at regular intervals along the top of the wall. A Tim Bannerman sandcastle as the tide comes in Secrets from the National Sandcastle Competition Tim isn’t the only one taking the craft to heroic lengths. No one quite knows why the British are so crazy about sandcastles, but a competition to see who could build the best was for a time one of the most popular annual events on the West Country coast. I was sent to Croyde beach one year to report on the weird, wonderful, and ephemeral creations of something called the National Sandcastle Competition, which was held to raise vital funds for the North Devon Hospice. Travel writer Martin Hesp with the award-winning sandcastle building team at Croyde, Devon Lacking a specialist sandcastle competition correspondent, the Western Morning News asked me to go along and get tips by the bucket-and-spade load from a world-beating team. Staff from North Devon Homes had won the title multiple times, and their secret weapons went well beyond the traditional wooden spade: Secret Weapon Number One: A plant sprayer full of water. Nothing glues sand together quite like a fine mist, especially on a hot day when finer sand features dry out and blow away in the breeze. Secret Weapon Number Two: Professional plasterer’s floats and specialised trowels. When I joined a key team member on the sand, we weren’t building turrets or barbicans—we were carving an eight-foot-long hippopotamus complete with neck rolls and water ripples. “We don’t tend to get many actual castles in the competition,” my guide admitted with a shrug. “It tends to be all sorts.” Secret Weapon Number Three: Military planning. The team would first of all plot-out their assigned seven-metre pitch onto a strict grid before even stepping onto the strand, assigning dedicated diggers to stockpile wet sand before the fine detail work begins. The head of a sandcastle hippo at Croyde beach So, before this sunny summer draws to a close, why not have a go? Take along a reasonably good spade and a hand-held plant-sprayer and you could find yourself impressing the entire crowded beach. You could even inspire an interest in Gothic or Palladian architecture in your children or grandchildren. Beach Foraging: A Wild Shoreline Feast I add this to the general beach-experience mix knowing that environmentalists will groan at the idea—but you can forage for delicious food if you’re on the right kind of seashore and the waters are unpolluted. Which does translate to many of the West Country’s more remote shores… SEE OUR SELECTION OF POSTS ON SUMMER FEASTS AND FLAVOURS HERE Shoreline vegetables foraged for free “For me collecting seafood is a real treat,” a keen beach-forager once told me. “The London people were always very keen on this sort of thing—jellied eels and so on—but that was a different generation when there were shellfish bars outside pubs on Sunday mornings. That’s all gone now—but I can go and get it for myself. “This is my idea of heaven,” he said, as we decanted cooking stoves, chopping boards, sieves and other paraphernalia onto rocks bordering the outgoing tide. “You go to Brittany and you’ll find little girls and grannies and aunties so on with baskets hung over their shoulders all raking away for razor fish, limpets, mussels and winkles—and sometimes there’s nothing left. “But it’s amazing how big they all are here,” he said grabbing a handful of wild mussels on a wild north Cornish beach. “There’s no problem of over-collecting on this shore.” With that, off we went jabbing this and hoicking that—we even climbed a lower part of the cliff to pick the rock samphire and sea-beet which would act as our vegetable ration. Which spurs me to make a very important point: do not harvest plants like these by grabbing tufts and ripping them from the ground. Pick off the tops with care—you’re almost pruning them. That way you won’t be damaging the plants. TAKE A LOOK AT OUR SECTION ON CORNISH WALKS HERE The Art of the Limpet My own favourite hunter-gatherer act of the day was levering limpets. Armed with a short stubby knife you must approach these stubborn creatures with caution—bump or jab them without accuracy and you’ve had it—the limpet will go into a kind of superglue defensive state of suction, and you won’t have a chance of getting it from the rock. A limpet gatherer in North Devon The element of surprise is their undoing. Make a quick, accurate lunge, pushing the knife between its shell and the rock, and—ping—that’s another muscle-bound wonder for the seafood stew. I did try limpets when I was a kid. It was not a success. Think: gristle, unchewable seafood chewing gum. My old pal was aware of their muscular reputation—which is why he asked us to search for the limpets first so they could go into a pan of bubbling white wine while we went off hunting for the other shellfish. We simply washed any sand off their undersides and chucked them in—shell and all—and there they simmered for the best part of 45 minutes and were absolutely delicious. Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) What makes Lee Bay near Lynmouth good for sandcastles? Lee Bay on the Exmoor coast is a sheltered cove where the ebbing tide uncovers clean, cohesive sand with good depth—ideal for compacting and carving before the Atlantic tide returns. How do you stop sandcastles from drying out and blowing away? A garden pressure plant sprayer filled with sea water is the secret used by championship teams. Lightly misting the structure keeps delicate details damp and bound together against the sun and sea breeze. How do you harvest and cook limpets so they aren't tough? Prise them cleanly off the rock using a sudden, low strike with a blunt knife before they clamp down. To overcome their muscular texture, wash the shells and simmer them gently in bubbling white wine, garlic, or stock for at least 40 to 45 minutes. How should you forage rock samphire and sea-beet sustainably? Never pull wild greens up by the root. Use a small knife or your fingers to pinch off the tender top shoots only—effectively pruning the plant so it continues to grow. A pan of delicious beach-stew - foraged seaweed and shellfish simmering in wine

And so to Le Marche, one of Italy’s least spoilt and most beautiful regions. The Chianti-shire effect has yet to spread its posh English roots across the Apennine Mountains that cut a lofty strip down the peninsula’s spine, so you really do get an Italy that feels, tastes and sounds like it should. Castelluccio in Le Marche Exploring the Landscape of Le Marche: From Coast to Mountains From the narrow coastal plain, the land rises first gently, then sharply, to the peaks of the Apennines. The further uphill you go, the fewer the folk you will find. And once you get into the Sibillini Mountains National Park, there are very few folk at all for most of the year. Things, though, do heat up in August when lots of city dwellers from Rome and Milan make for the uplands in an attempt to keep cool. But, as is the case with Dartmoor or Exmoor, you can soon lose the madding crowd if you so wish by the simple expedient of walking more than 500 metres from the nearest road. Staying in Remote Luxury: La Cantina in the Sibillini Mountains The house we rented was far from the madding crowd anyway. La Cantina is situated in its own remote valley near to the mountain resort of Fiastra – a small village situated next to a lake which is just about the only place in miles that draws anything like a crowd. To reach the large old farmhouse we had to negotiate a mile and a half of white gravel track, so that when we arrived we felt quite grandiose in our very own private remote and scenic location. The place can easily sleep ten, it is fully equipped, and you can enjoy the sweeping views from its idyllically placed terraces. Walking and Hiking in Le Marche: A Hiker’s Paradise Once you are installed, you find that Le Marche is one of those places which attract the travel writer’s ubiquitous “something for everyone” phrase. After the journey, lovers of the countryside can chill out by simply walking around La Cantina’s immediate environs. The mountains are riddled with shepherds’ paths and no one seems to mind if you wander where’er ye will. Exploring the Sibillini Mountains? We walked over the watershed and down to the lake one day – a hot and exhausting hike that was rewarded with an icy bathe and lunch in one of Fiastra’s excellent restaurants. Traditional Food in Le Marche: A Culinary Journey Which brings me onto food. Apart from the almost guaranteed good weather, food is one of the main reasons for holidaying in Italy – and visitors to the Le Marche region will not be disappointed. For me, antipasto rules the day when I’m in Italy and in Le Marche mountain salt-cured ham and lonza (salt-cured fillet of pork) reign supreme. After that, the classic primo piatta tends to be some sort of pasta swathed in a meat sauce – the region’s signature pasta dish is vincisgrassi, a rich baked lasagna without the usual tomatoes. For the main course there’s the ubiquitous meat grilled alle brace, but look out for delicious stuffed pigeons (piccione ripieno) and rabbit cooked with fennel (coniglio in porchetta). Experiencing an Italian Village Fete in Le Marche We were lucky enough to be invited to a local village fete – Italian style. Which means it started at night, featured unbelievable quantities of food and even more dancing. The tiny village of Sentino boasts less than 100 souls dwelling in its vertiginous demesne, and yet these few people organise an annual event in a manner that would make Glastonbury’s Michael Eavis turn green with envy. When we reached the top of the mountain, more than 2,000 vehicles were already parked. Each, perhaps, brought four passengers. That’s 8,000 people. Because this is Italy, all needed feeding – and they would not be content with a burger in a bun. They wanted proper food – and they got it. The great meal began with an anti-pasti dish of charcuterie, then came a choice of pasta. My enormous bowl of fusilli punctuated with bits of artichoke is a masterpiece that I shall never forget. Next, the seconda-piatta: a vast collation of sizzling meats. Then there were fields of salad and mountains of chips. All this was rounded off by huge melons and little cakes with the texture of Crunchie bars. Jugs of superb, slurpable, wine were delivered every other minute. Discover Renaissance Urbino 8,000 people. 32,000 courses. Provided by a small team of people from the tiny mountain village. And the really amazing fact? They do it for seven consecutive, exhausting, nights – and anyone can go if they get a ticket. Such events occur all over rural Italy on the various saints’ days during summer, so you may well be able to find one. If you do, starve yourself all day, grab a phrasebook, and go. Discovering the Piano Grande: One of Europe’s Most Striking Landscapes “Is food all you think about?” asked my partner one day. As an act of remorse I took her on a drive up into the central region of the Sibillini Mountains and discovered one of the most amazing landscapes I’ve seen anywhere in Europe. Piano Grande is a huge flat-bottomed plateau ringed by steep mountains – it is 1,250 metres above sea level, eight kilometres long and five wide. In spring and summer it is transformed into a carpet of wild flowers and you see seas of poppies, wild tulips and exotic alpine flowers such as carex buxbaumii. Castelluccio and Its Famous Lentils You will also see lentils. The strange basin in the mountains is famous for them. Italians believe the thin-skinned lentils grown here to be the best in the world, better even than the green Puy lentils so beloved by the French. And, having tasted them, I have to agree. And taste them you must even if your partner does think you are obsessed by food. The little village of Castelluccio is perched on its own mini-mountain right in the centre of the plain – and every one of its restaurants majors on the famous pulses. The place is more reminiscent of Nepal than anything you’d expect to see in Italy – and even when you sit escaping the summer heat under an awning eating your lentil stew, you get the feeling that this is probably a tough and windy place in which to live for most of the year. Indeed, it comes as no surprise to learn that Castelluccio’s church bell is rung continuously during bad winter weather until every member of the village’s tiny population is safe at home. Visiting the Adriatic Coast of Le Marche In the opposite direction from the mountains lies the Adriatic coast – a destination best avoided in August if my experiences are anything to go by. However, the beaches along this sandy littoral are the maritime playgrounds of urban Italy, and so the whole crowded craziness of it all does offer huge amusement value to the amateur anthropologist. The beachside Tannoys blare machine-gun Italian, youths strut, fat ladies wade through ice creams the size of suitcases, impossibly beautiful girls loll scenically, and everyone attaches themselves to brightly coloured and expensive-to-hire lounger chairs. It is all so very, very Italian. You couldn’t be in any other country in the world. Seafood in Ancona: Brodetto and Beyond And, being Italy, there is food. Colossal seafood luncheons are consumed up and down the coast with such relish you wonder how there can be any fish left in any sea in the world. My own little weakness in the coastal area around Ancona is brodetto – a marine stew which must be made with 13 different species of fish – not a fillet more, not a fillet less. Final Thoughts: Why Le Marche is a Hidden Treasure of Italy Sorry, back to food again. But it is difficult, if not impossible, to avoid the stuff in Italy. And who would want to? I’d go as far as to say that when it comes to average food offered in average restaurants, Italy has the best cuisine in the world. Frequently Asked Questions Is Le Marche worth visiting? Absolutely. Le Marche is one of Italy's best-kept secrets, combining beautiful Adriatic beaches, medieval hill towns, spectacular mountain scenery and exceptional local cuisine. It offers much of the charm of neighbouring Tuscany and Umbria but with fewer crowds and often better value. Where is Le Marche in Italy? Le Marche lies on Italy's eastern Adriatic coast between Emilia-Romagna to the north and Abruzzo to the south. It stretches from the beaches of the Adriatic Sea to the dramatic peaks of the Sibillini Mountains, making it an ideal destination for both coast and countryside. What is Le Marche famous for? Le Marche is known for its rolling vineyards, olive groves, Renaissance towns, fresh seafood, handmade pasta and spectacular mountain landscapes. Visitors also come to explore charming hilltop villages, beautiful beaches and authentic Italian culture away from the main tourist trails. When is the best time to visit Le Marche? The best months to visit Le Marche are May, June, September and early October, when the weather is warm, the countryside is at its most beautiful and popular attractions are much quieter than during the height of summer. What are the best places to visit in Le Marche? Some of Le Marche's highlights include the Sibillini Mountains National Park, Castelluccio during the famous wildflower bloom, Lake Fiastra, the historic city of Urbino, the coastal resort of Senigallia and the regional capital of Ancona. How many days do you need in Le Marche? A week allows enough time to enjoy both the mountains and the Adriatic coast, but many visitors spend 10 to 14 days exploring the region's historic towns, vineyards, beaches and walking trails at a relaxed pace. Is Le Marche good for a road trip? Yes. Le Marche is one of Italy's finest regions for a self-drive holiday. Quiet scenic roads connect medieval villages, mountain passes, vineyards and coastal resorts, making it easy to explore at your own pace. Is Le Marche suitable for food lovers? Definitely. Le Marche is renowned for its regional specialities, including truffles, olives, handmade pasta, seafood from the Adriatic, local cheeses and excellent wines such as Verdicchio and Rosso Conero. Eating well is one of the great pleasures of visiting the region.

We tend to over-use superlatives like "world's best footballer" or "nation's favourite dish." Can we ever really know what’s the absolute best? On this one occasion, I’m willing to make an exception. After spending a couple of nights at Carbis Bay Hotel and Estate near St Ives, I genuinely believe it to be one of the finest hospitality locations in the UK. The stunning setting, the top-notch service, and the feeling of absolute comfort make it a place I won't forget. Carbis Bay Hotel: Famous for the G7 Summit 👑 You may remember Carbis Bay from the 2021 G7 Summit when Boris Johnson hosted global leaders such as Joe Biden, Angela Merkel, Emmanuel Macron, and Justin Trudeau. Naturally, this Cornish gem had to impress on a global stage, and it lived up to its billing. But what makes it so special for the everyday guest? It’s not just the high-profile visits that make Carbis Bay shine; it’s the attention to detail that leaves every visitor with lasting memories. From the pristine beach to the world-class amenities, it’s a place designed to exceed expectations. Why Stay at Carbis Bay Hotel? Our beachside lodge, just steps away from the golden sand, was extraordinary. Imagine floor-to-ceiling windows showcasing breathtaking ocean views. One night, as a storm raged, we watched the waves crash while cosy in a vast, comfortable bed—an unforgettable experience. The room was a haven of comfort, where modern design met the classic allure of a seaside escape. Every little detail, from the furnishings to the thoughtful amenities, added to the sense of indulgence. Planning a stay near St Ives? Compare today's accommodation prices around Carbis Bay, St Ives and Lelant. Our lodge also boasted a private hot tub in the garden, which sat just a few meters from the waves. As I sat there, watching an October gale whip itself into a frenzy, I felt like a millionaire (which I very much am not!). The lodge itself, a three-story haven, was where the German chancellor had stayed. Each room in the lodge was spacious, beautifully appointed, and offered unbelievably wonderful views of the the wave-torn sea. World-Leader Quality Comfort & Service 👏✨ From the moment we arrived, the concierge service was exceptional. We were welcomed with a platter of savoury treats and a chilled bottle of excellent Cornish bubbly. It was a perfect introduction to the level of hospitality we were about to enjoy. CHECK OUT OUR CORNISH WALKS PAGE HERE The staff were attentive without being intrusive, always ready to assist with anything we needed. Breakfast was delivered to our lodge upon request—a lavish hamper of local cheeses, smoked salmon, charcuterie, and even hot bacon and sausage sandwiches. The level of care was simply top-notch, earning a perfect 10/10. We could also have taken advantage of the spa facilities during our stay. The spa, with its serene atmosphere and a range of treatments, was the perfect place to relax and rejuvenate. The heated indoor pool, complete with ocean views, was another highlight. After a soothing massage, we lounged by the pool, taking in the scenery and feeling completely at ease. Dining Experiences to Savour 🍷🍣 The restaurants also delivered an experience fit for world leaders. At Walters on the Beach, we enjoyed a session of fine-dining delights like braised rib of beef and halibut with black risotto. The atmosphere was elegant yet relaxed, with attentive staff ensuring that every need was met. The quality of the ingredients, many of them locally sourced, made every dish stand out. Meanwhile, the more laid-back Beach Club offered options like whipped gorgonzola and barbecued Cornish brill, which were nothing short of superb. The Beach Club had a warm and welcoming vibe, perfect for a leisurely evening meal. We enjoyed the sunset views over the ocean while sipping on expertly crafted cocktails. The variety of dishes catered to all tastes, from light and healthy to rich and indulgent. For those seeking something a little different, the Orangery provided a beautiful setting for afternoon tea. With its light-filled space and tranquil views, it was the ideal spot to enjoy a selection of pastries, finger sandwiches, and freshly brewed tea. Every bite was a testament to the skill and creativity of the chefs. Affordable Luxury While the lodges come at a premium, the Carbis Bay Hotel offers affordable luxury if you stay in the Main House. With a special offer of £299 per night for two (including breakfast, dinner, and spa access) during November and December, it’s a chance to indulge in the kind of experience usually reserved for dignitaries. The Main House offers charming rooms that maintain the high standards of comfort and luxury you'd expect, without the premium price tag of the beachside lodges. This winter deal makes it possible for more people to experience the beauty and relaxation of Carbis Bay. Imagine waking up to the sound of waves gently lapping against the shore, enjoying a first class breakfast, and spending the day exploring Cornwall or simply relaxing in the spa. St Ives in evening light Why Stay at Carbis Bay Hotel? There are luxury hotels, and then there are hotels that become part of the destination itself. Carbis Bay Hotel & Estate falls firmly into the second category. Perched above one of Cornwall's loveliest beaches, with sweeping views across St Ives Bay, it is the sort of place where you find yourself lingering over breakfast simply because you cannot bear to leave the view. What I particularly like is that you are never confined to the hotel. A gentle stroll along the South West Coast Path takes you into the bustling harbour town of St Ives, with its narrow cobbled streets, independent galleries, seafood restaurants and tempting little shops. If you prefer to leave the car behind, the tiny branch railway from Carbis Bay to St Ives is one of Britain's prettiest short train journeys, skimming the coastline in just a few minutes. Whether you are planning a romantic weekend, celebrating a special anniversary or simply treating yourself to a few days beside the sea, Carbis Bay makes an excellent base from which to explore one of the most beautiful corners of Cornwall. Things to Do Near Carbis Bay Hotel One of the great pleasures of staying here is that some of Cornwall's finest attractions are within easy reach. Spend a morning wandering around the galleries of St Ives, visit the famous Tate St Ives overlooking Porthmeor Beach, or simply follow the South West Coast Path and discover hidden coves where the Atlantic seems impossibly blue on a sunny day. A short drive brings you to St Michael's Mount, Land's End, the dramatic cliffs at Zennor and the golden beaches around Hayle. If you're a walker, photographer or lover of Cornwall's coastline, you'll never run short of places to explore. St Michael's Mount and causeway Luxury Accommodation in Carbis Bay and St Ives Although Carbis Bay Hotel is undoubtedly one of the best-known luxury hotels in Cornwall, it is far from the only place to stay. The surrounding area offers everything from stylish boutique hotels and family-run guest houses to holiday cottages with sea views and modern apartments overlooking the beach. If your preferred dates are fully booked, or you're looking for something a little different, it's well worth comparing nearby accommodation before making your final choice. Planning your Cornwall escape? Compare live prices for hotels, apartments, guest houses and holiday cottages around Carbis Bay and St Ives. Button: Check Prices & Availability Book Your Stay at Carbis Bay 🌍 If you’re ready to experience the beauty and comfort of Carbis Bay for yourself, visit Carbis Bay Hotel or call 01736 795311 to book this limited-time deal. Don’t miss the chance to create lasting memories in one of the UK’s most stunning coastal locations. Whether you’re planning a romantic getaway, a family holiday, or a special celebration, Carbis Bay has something to offer everyone. You might also be interested in the following articles Hotel Meudon Victoria Hotel Sidmouth Lizard Peninsula article FAQ Is Carbis Bay Hotel worth staying at? Carbis Bay Hotel & Estate is one of Cornwall's premier luxury hotels, offering spectacular sea views, award-winning dining, spa facilities and direct access to one of Cornwall's finest beaches. How far is Carbis Bay Hotel from St Ives? The hotel is approximately one mile from St Ives and can be reached on foot via the South West Coast Path or by the scenic branch railway. Can non-residents eat at Carbis Bay Hotel? Yes. Visitors can enjoy several restaurants, afternoon tea, beach dining and bars without staying overnight, although booking is recommended. Does Carbis Bay Hotel have a spa? Yes. The hotel features an award-winning spa with treatment rooms, swimming pools and wellness facilities overlooking the bay. Why is Carbis Bay Hotel famous? The hotel hosted the 47th G7 summit in 2021, welcoming world leaders including Joe Biden, Boris Johnson and other international leaders. Does Carbis Bay Hotel have its own beach? Yes. The hotel overlooks the beautiful sandy beach at Carbis Bay and offers direct private access for guests. Guests can easily visit: St Ives Tate St Ives South West Coast Path Godrevy Lighthouse St Michael's Mount

Rothay Manor Hotel, Ambleside The Lake District is the most visited of the UK’s 15 National Parks, welcoming upwards of 19 million visitors a year. I hadn’t been there in 45 years - the last time I visited was in a Morris 1000 with a small boat on the roof, and the journey took eight hours. Highways and vehicles have improved a lot over that time and a couple of weeks ago we arrived in Ambleside after just five hours of quiet and comfortable motoring. No wonder the national park is so popular even with those from the South of England who have to travel a long way to reach it. Winter walkers stand on shore of Derwent Water In our case almost 300 miles… But the trip was more than worth it - The Lakes really are monumentally beautiful. We knew that because we’d been there once before, but over 45 years you can forget just how lovely a place is. And in winter when the area is almost empty, the snow-capped mountains make it even more stunning, especially when the sun comes out. We were lucky in that respect, so in the winter sunshine we decided to visit as much of the Lake District as possible - which in itself required a fair amount of driving, punctuated by icy walks and lunches grabbed on the hoof. In another of our posts we covered our adventures in the southern half of the national park, staying at The Samling Hotel - for the second part of our stay we moved base and headed north. Actually, we relocated to a hotel just a few miles north, but it was worth it because Ambleside is the perfect base for the visitor who wants to see as much of The Lakes as they can in the time available. Drawing room at Rothay Manor, Ambleside Luxurious Retreat at Rothay Manor, Ambleside And our hotel, the lovely Rothay Manor, proved to be 100 percent perfect when it came to the task of keeping us extremely comfortable, well rested and well fed. The elegant country house hotel provides a quintessentially English retreat that offers refined comfort and a gateway to the national park. The charming old house dates back to 1823 and combines historic charm with modern luxury. We were staying in the newly built Pavilion annex set in the handsome gardens, a building which boasts large beautifully appointed suites with wall-to-ceiling view windows. You could use the phrase to describe all of Rothay Manor. Beautifully appointed. The owners have blended classic design with contemporary touches - think: plush beds, stylish furnishings, and thoughtful details. Food is at the heart of the experience and the hotel’s restaurant is a destination in itself, offering dishes that showcase the best of seasonal and local produce. The Rothay Manor is perfectly positioned between Windermere and the high fells and so it offers the ideal mix of comfort and convenience for people who are out and about all day exploring the lakes, valleys, and picture-perfect villages. The hotel is situated towards the lake on the outskirts of Ambleside, which is a charming little town. As you stroll around the streets, so you begin to realise it is a community of contrasts. By which I mean, Victorian heritage and outdoor adventure. I’ve never seen so many outward-bound shops in one place. Pleasure boat on Lake Windermere Located at the northern tip of Windermere, it is one of those places which has been shaped by the surrounding landscape. Lake, mountain and river. The environs of Ambleside are all about water, woods, and fells. For example, there’s the dramatic waterfall at Stock Ghyll Force nearby, and within 20 minutes you can be striding along the high paths leading towards well known landmarks such as Loughrigg and the Fairfield Horseshoe. On a wet day (not that we had one) you could visit the much-celebrated Heaton Cooper Studio and admire local artworks, or call at tiny Bridge House, possibly the most photographed building in the Lake District and a popular subject for many artists including Turner. This is Part Two of our Lake District winter adventure. Read Part One: our review of The Samling Hotel and scenic drive through the southern Lakes. Exploring Wordsworth Country: Grasmere and Beyond A few miles drive north and we enter Wordsworth Country, passing his old home at Rydal before reaching Grasmere which has its own rugged charm set, as it is, deep in a valley between high fells. The village has been attracting visitors for centuries - most notably its most famous and devoted fan, William Wordsworth, who declared it “the loveliest spot that man hath ever found.” The village plays host to the poet’s other home, the famous Dove Cottage, and of course there is a Wordsworth Museum where you can learn all about the great man. Apart from the literary heritage, Grasmere is gateway to some of the Lake District’s finest walks. The steep paths to Helm Crag, Easedale Tarn, and Loughrigg Fell offer varied routes through wild landscapes, while a gentle lakeside stroll provides a quieter way to take in the dramatic scenery. Winter view of Lake Buttermere The winter visitor doesn’t need to be Sherlock Holmes to deduce that the village must be absolutely teeming in high summer. The honeypot vibe shouts long and loud and I’m not sure I’d want to be there in August, but on a crisp sunny morning in January it was wonderfully empty. We had the place to ourselves and so were free to admire the church and the pretty churchyard (which of course contains Wordsworth’s grave) without a soul in sight, as well as peruse the many independent shops and tearooms, including the famous Grasmere Gingerbread emporium where the magic stuff is made to a secret 19th-century recipe. Scenic Drives and Hidden Gems: From Keswick to Ullswater Driving north again, we pass long and lovely Thirlmere, tucked under the crags of Helvellyn, and eventually reach Keswick, with its handsome wide market street - a place that offers a lunch-on-the-hoof merchant like me a wide range of savoury and sweet opportunities. The main street at Keswick Lunch-on-the-hoof, because we had no time to dally in town. We were all for jumping back in the car and driving in a south-westerly direction around the eastern shoreline of dreamy Derwent Water so that we could enter Borrowdale. This lovely valley rises in a westerly direction to reach a ravine that has been cleaved by a stream called the Hause Gill. A narrow road climbs along the side of this ravine to reach the dramatic Honister Pass, where good and confident drivers (I wouldn’t try this route if you’re not one of those) can pause to admire the vertiginous slate workings of yesteryear. Blimey… those guys must have been tough and have had good heads for heights. Peaceful scenes in winter at Crummock Water The tiny winding road then descends west down the length of the equally dramatic and scenic Gatescarthdale Beck, which pours its waters into Buttermere, one of the loveliest lakes in the national park. We stopped just before the lake to stroll up into the great amphitheatre of hills that make up Warnscale Bottom, a lonely place famed for its waterfalls. Had it not been absolutely freezing we’d have climbed alongside one of them up to Blackbeck Tarn, a lonesome little lake perched on the edge of a crag. But what winter gives you in its lack of crowds, it takes away with snow and ice. Only a fool would go venturing into those wild places in such low temperatures without full-on winter gear and a sound knowledge of the conditions. We were wearing good boots and warm clothes, but we were not kitted out for outward-bound escapades in sub-zero temperatures. So we drove on around the eastern edge of Buttermere, then continued along the shores of the next lake down the valley, stunning Crummock Water - a lake which came as a delightful surprise as I’d not heard of it before and we were much-taken by the drama of its surroundings. The lane that runs along its eastern shore must be one of the most scenic roads in Britain. Buttermere in winter A few miles down the valley we turned right to drive over the less demanding road that ascends the forest-lined Whinlatter Pass. It takes you east over the fells to the village of Braithwaite, which in turn sends you the couple of miles back to Keswick. We took the bypass to continue east, five or six miles along the main Penrith road to its junction with the A5091, which takes you south into one of the loveliest of all the Lake District many areas. By which I mean the mountainous zone that surrounds glorious Ullswater. The word “magnificent” doesn’t do justice to this stunning neck of the woods, and you could do worse than follow our example and stop at the National Trust car park where the road meets the lake. Aira-Force waterfall For here you will find the much-loved Aira-Force waterfall - a cataract which the Trust has made more accessible with well-laid pathways that run up one side of the falls and descend down the other. You can choose how far up you go, thanks to the fact a couple of foot bridges offer the chance to shorten the climb, allowing you to cross the cataract and return to the visitor centre and cafe, should you urgently feel in need of hot tea, ginger-bread or whatever. Needless to say, we went to the top, because this really is a superb little walk. Then it was south for us, over the Kirkstone Pass along the main road, which we left shortly after the summit in order to drive down the lane which descends directly back around the contours of Scandale Fell down into Ambleside. A lane that offers dramatic views of Windermere every mile of the way. After that little lot, we were certainly in need of the supreme comforts offered by the lovely Rothay Manor Hotel. FACT FILE Stay at Rothay Manor in Ambleside - visit www.rothaymanor.co.uk The boutique hotel and restaurant is just a 10-minute walk from Ambleside, Lake Windermere, and the fells beyond. The Grade II-listed Regency hotel has 23 bedrooms in total, 15 in the main house and a further 8 luxury suites in the Pavilion. With the surrounding fells, lakes and tarns making the perfect canine playground, Rothay Manor welcomes dogs, with eight dog-friendly bedrooms, and a dedicated dog washroom. The road passes very close to the shore of Crummock Water FAQs Is Rothay Manor worth staying at? Yes. Rothay Manor is one of Ambleside's leading boutique hotels, offering luxurious rooms, award-winning dining and an ideal base for exploring the Lake District. Where is Rothay Manor Hotel? Rothay Manor is located in Ambleside, just a short walk from Lake Windermere and within easy reach of many of the Lake District's best walking routes. Does Rothay Manor have a good restaurant? Yes. Rowan Restaurant at Rothay Manor serves seasonal modern British cuisine using locally sourced Cumbrian ingredients and has earned multiple awards. What can you do near Rothay Manor? Popular attractions include: Lake Windermere Loughrigg Fell Grasmere Rydal Water Tarn Hows Wray Castle Dove Cottage Is Rothay Manor suitable for couples? Yes. Its elegant rooms, fine dining and peaceful setting make it one of the Lake District's best hotels for romantic short breaks. Plan Your Visit Location: Ambleside, Cumbria Nearest lake: Windermere Best time to visit: Year-round, especially spring, autumn and winter Ideal stay: 2–4 nights Perfect for: Couples, walkers, food lovers and photographers Nearby attractions Lake Windermere Loughrigg Fell Grasmere Rydal Water Tarn Hows Wray Castle Wordsworth's grave at Grasmere

After a recent newspaper column about words ending in “-ist,” I received several messages from readers haranguing me for admitting I was an “area-ist”. People can get snooty about where they live, and I have long been guilty of writing things like: “Why bother visiting any other national park when we have glorious Dartmoor and Exmoor on our doorstep?” “You must be mad!” retorted one reader. “Dartmoor and Exmoor are wonderful, but if you want to see real hills and moors, go to the Lake District. And don’t go on about it getting too crowded - it’s empty in winter.” A Luxurious Stay at The Samling I was considering this email when someone I know suggested: “Why not sample The Samling? It is one of the most delightful hotels in all of England, let alone the Lake District. It has one of the best views and some of the best food.” She was right. And of course, the reader was correct in saying the Lake District contains truly magnificent hills and moorlands, not to mention fabulous lakes, and that it is gloriously empty in winter. My wife and I drove north for a twin-resort stay in The Lakes, and we enjoyed absolutely every moment of it. We struck vacation-gold with wall-to-wall sunshine—something we certainly did not expect in January. The Samling in winter tucked away beneath the Lake District's snowy mountains and the lake A Two-Part Lake District Adventure Our adventure was so enjoyable that I’m dividing my articles into two parts: This is a review of our stay at The Samling Hotel and our tour of the southerly Lake District. Next: A look at the equally impressive Rothay Manor Hotel in Ambleside and a report on the northern Lake District. It’s worth two articles because I know for a fact that many readers frequently visit England’s most popular national park. During our trip, I met several couples from the South West taking winter breaks in The Lakes. The Samling and its fabulous glass-sided restaurant - room for a view The Samling Hotel: A Luxury Retreat Overlooking Lake Windermere The Samling is an exclusive and luxurious hotel set in a handsome Georgian house overlooking Lake Windermere. Located on a private estate a few hundred feet above the lake, it boasts some of the best panoramic views of England’s largest lake. The owners have made the most of these magnificent views by constructing a large glass-walled restaurant, offering guests a breathtaking dining experience. Few establishments in the world provide such a stunning breakfast view—a vast swathe of the national park stretches before you, urging you to explore once you've enjoyed your full-English breakfast. Michelin-Starred Dining at The Samling Beneath the restaurant, a state-of-the-art kitchen is where Executive Head Chef Robby Jenks creates extraordinary dishes, earning him a Michelin star. Some West Country food lovers may recognise Robby Jenks, a Tiverton-born chef who trained under Michael Caines at Gidleigh Park before leading prestigious hotels. Now at The Samling, he describes his move as a “dream come true.” “We try to keep the food as simple as possible and let the ingredients do the work,” he told me in one of the hotel’s cosy lounges. “It’s a progressive style of cooking—always evolving with the seasons and new inspirations from my team.” Executive Head Chef Robby Jenks at The Samling Locally Sourced Ingredients & Award-Winning Cuisine Local ingredients are a priority. Herdwick lamb, renowned for its exceptional quality, is a menu staple. The kitchen also supports local farmers and even grows its own produce when possible. From Tuesday to Saturday, The Samling’s evening service features Robby Jenks' seven-course tasting menu, though I counted 14 exquisite dishes. Each course is paired with perfectly matched wines and served by Rebecca Galland, Robby’s eloquent front-of-house partner. Plan Your Visit Best time: November–March for peaceful winter landscapes Nearest town: Ambleside Nearest lake: Windermere Ideal stay: 2–3 nights Perfect for: Couples, food lovers, walkers, photographers Don't miss: Tarn Hows Hardknott Pass Wrynose Pass Coniston Water Michelin dinner at The Samling Tarn Hows in winter Exploring Tarn Hows & The Lake District's Best Scenic Drives After indulging in The Samling’s hospitality, we were energised to hike fells, scale waterfalls, and circumnavigate lakes. A must-visit is Tarn Hows, a picturesque lake west of Windermere, nestled in Beatrix Potter country. Owned by the National Trust, the two-mile loop walk around it is one of the loveliest winter strolls I have experienced. For a scenic drive, I recommend taking the eastern road along Coniston Water, which leads through the remote valleys of Ulpha and Bibker Pikes into Eskdale. This wild and remote landscape is one of the Lake District’s hidden gems. A ferry on Lake Windermere in the depths of winter Driving Hardknott & Wrynose Passes: A White-Knuckle Adventure For a thrilling drive, we tackled Hardknott Pass, which ascends the steepest road in England. It was a white-knuckle ride in January, with ice adding an extra challenge. The descent leads into Wrynose Bottom, followed by the climb over Wrynose Pass, another breathtaking drive. After the wild highlands, we entered the softer landscape of Little Langdale, passing Skelwith Bridge en route to Ambleside. From there, it was a short drive back to Lake Windermere, concluding our epic road trip. Final Thoughts: Is the Lake District England's Best National Park? If you drive this route in any season, you will likely agree with the reader who insisted on the Lake District's superiority. And if you stay at The Samling, you’ll surely agree it’s one of England's most exceptional hotels. The Samling Hotel: Dining & Stay Information Robby Jenks' Tasting Menu: £150 per person, with a vegetarian option available Rooms from £290 B&B Surrounded by 67 acres of woodlands, meadows, and gardens Website: www.thesamlinghotel.co.uk The Wrynose Pass High Road Passes of the Lake District The Lake District is home to some of England’s highest road passes, offering stunning views but demanding caution in winter. Top 5 Highest Passes: Kirkstone Pass – 1,489 ft (454 m) Wrynose Pass – 1,281 ft (390 m) Hardknott Pass – 1,190 ft (362 m) Honister Pass – 1,167 ft (356 m) Newlands Pass – 1,093 ft (333 m) Winter Warning:Snow, ice, and high winds can make these roads treacherous. Preparation and confidence behind the wheel are essential! The wild west of the Lake District Frequently Asked Questions Is The Samling worth staying at? Yes. The Samling is one of the finest luxury hotels in the Lake District, offering panoramic views over Lake Windermere, Michelin-starred dining and peaceful grounds just outside Ambleside. Does The Samling have a Michelin-starred restaurant? Yes. Executive Chef Robby Jenks holds a Michelin star, serving an exceptional tasting menu using many locally sourced Cumbrian ingredients. When is the best time to visit the Lake District? Spring and autumn are popular, but winter offers quieter roads, peaceful walking trails and beautiful frosty landscapes, making it an excellent time for a luxury escape. What attractions are near The Samling? Visitors can easily explore: Lake Windermere Ambleside Tarn Hows Coniston Water Hardknott Pass Wrynose Pass Little Langdale Is The Samling suitable for a romantic break? Absolutely. With luxurious rooms, outstanding food and breathtaking lake views, it's one of the best hotels in England for couples. The dining room at The Samling, Lake District

There's a particular kind of freedom that comes with a road trip — the moment you pull out of the driveway with a full tank, a rough plan, and nothing but miles of unfamiliar road ahead. Maybe it's a coastal drive along the Cornish coast, a weekend chasing autumn colours through the Peak District, or a spontaneous trip up to the Scottish Highlands. Whatever the destination, the joy of a driving adventure lies in the unknown — new views, new stops, new stories. But before any of that can happen, your car needs to be ready to carry you there. Where the Adventure Really Begins Every great journey starts long before you reach the motorway. It starts with a car you can trust. A weekend away loses its charm fast if you're stranded on the hard shoulder because of a fault that could have been caught earlier. This is where planning meets adventure: you can book MOT with North West Tyres today and enjoy a quick, hassle-free service with professional vehicle checks and thorough testing. The only thing you need to worry about is which playlist to put on. Letting the Road Surprise You, Not Your Car Part of a well-planned drive is being able to discover an unexpected situation, be it a last-minute change of the route or a scenic spot to take in the surroundings or to stop at a small village. Your car, though, should remain reliable. Being stuck on an unfamiliar stretch of road is one more thing to contend alongside changing weather and spending a few hours behind the wheel can put much more strain on a car than daily commuting. Choosing to book MOT before the big trip helps reduce the chances of something going wrong with the car while you’re getting used to driving on different roads. Making it Part of the Trip, Not Just a Task Experienced travellers understand that getting ready is part of the fun, not something that just slows you down. Just like planning your route, picking music, and booking places to stay, you should think about your car’s MOT in the same way – as an important part of the journey. If you book MOT a few weeks before you plan to leave, instead of waiting until the last minute, you'll have time to fix any problems that come up. This way, you’ll have less chance of anything ruining the trip you’ve been looking forward to. Arriving Ready for Whatever's Next The greatest driving adventures are ultimately about going beyond a destination — letting the miles take you wherever they lead, trusting the road ahead. You can simply focus on the ride: the sights along the way, the pit stops, all those stories you’ll tell later. So, before you fill your boot and head into the unknown, make sure you book MOT. You can enjoy the journey with greater peace of mind no matter where the road leads you.

Variety is the outstanding joy of Exmoor. If it had been situated in some landlocked part of the country it would have been wonderful enough – but because it is perched beside the sea there is something about the nation’s least visited national park that pushes far more buttons in the way of expectation and excitement. To see more EXMOOR WALKS click here... Why Exmoor is one of England’s best walking landscapes Of course, there are swathes of Exmoor where you cannot spy the sea, but a short climb up the nearest hill will probably give you at least a glimpse of the great blue beyond. You can almost smell it when one of the prevailing westerlies is blowing, and it is a wind that brings with it famously clean air. There are rare lichens growing on Exmoor that you will find nowhere else in Europe because of pollution. It is arguable that no other place in the region lends itself so well to walking. The hills boast huge areas of open access land where you can wander wherever you wish. Because of the topography, the area is rich in circular walks, which will take you into numerous different habitats. A brave swimmer crosses lonely Pinkery Pond Exmoor Walks – Quick Guide Location: Exmoor National Park, located in the counties of Somerset & Devon Best for: Moorland views, wooded valleys and coastal cliffs Wildlife: Red deer, Exmoor ponies, birds of prey Best starting points: Dunkery Beacon, Tarr Steps, Valley of Rocks, Dulverton, Porlock Typical distance: 3–10 miles Best time to visit: Any time, but avoid high summer when some locations can be crowded. Spring and autumn are popular with walkers but many increasingly visit Exmoor in the depths of winter when you have a good chance of walking for miles without seeing a soul. Also because of the topography, Exmoor offers endless opportunities to broaden the horizons of your visit in a single day. You could, for example, enjoy the popular and dramatic seaside resort of Lynmouth in the morning – ride on the thrilling funicular railway up to Lynton and call in at the famous Valley of Rocks – then have lunch in a moorland pub and afterwards escape the madding crowd by taking a stroll over some high lonely heath in the afternoon. Wild red stags roam the moors Just 10,600 residents are scattered across this vast area in which only three settlements have more than 1,300 souls. Farmland accounts for 56 percent of the land usage, 27.5 per cent is moorland and 12 per cent woodland. Being so sparsely populated, it is a haven for wildlife. Most famously, Exmoor plays host to England’s largest herd of wild red deer. The national park’s other claim to fame is the humble Exmoor pony, thought to be more closely related to the original wild horse than any other breed, save for the extremely rare Przewalski pony. The high moors - no roads, no houses for miles High Moor Walks Examples: Dunkery Beacon - Exmoor’s highest hill offers a superb vantage point. Some argue the 1705-foot hill has the best views to be found anywhere in Southern England. Read the full walk: Dunkery Beacon Walk Withypool Hill - a lonely upland off the beaten track. Filled with ancient history, Neolithic barrows rub shoulders with standing stones and other relics of the distant past. A good place to spot the semi-wild Exmoor ponies. The Chains and Western Exmoor - the loneliest part of the national park. This high and remote area can be boggy in winter but it hides any number of unexpected surprises such as Pinkery Pond and the ruins of Hoar Oak Cottage. Snowdrops abound in Exmoor's valleys at the end of January River Valley Walks Examples: Tarr Steps & River Barle - tucked under Withypool Common this famous river valley plays host to a remarkable ancient clapper bridge as well as deep woodlands making it a perfect place to hike if the Atlantic gales are blowing across the high moors. Horner Woods - home of the British version of a rainforest. The deep river valleys to the north of the Dunkery range play host to ancient oak woods which are covered in rare mosses and lichens. One of the most scenic cores of the national park. Watersmeet - deep in the valley where the East and West Lyn Rivers join forces - this is one of the best known spots in the national park and, for good measure, it has a wonderful National Trust tea-room. Exmoor's coast in winter Coastal Walks Examples: Valley of Rocks - one of the great walking areas of Exmoor. This remarkable valley hangs above Exmoor’s vertiginous coast. The setting for a million Instagram posts, this wild and rocky valley has something for everyone - you can simply wander across to the tearoom or watch a match being played none of the most scenic cricket pitches to be found anywhere in the world, or go marching off around the hills and cliffs to see the wild goats that live among the rocks. Porlock Weir - perhaps one of the most beautiful hidden gems of Exmoor. The tiny little harbour sits at the end of Porlock Vale - there are some wonderful refreshment opportunities for those who want to go off hiking along Exmoor’s steep and lonely coast. Culbone Church - just a couple of miles west along the steep Exmoor coastline from Porlock Weir - the diminutive stone-built temple in the woods is actually the smallest complete church in all of the UK. You have to talk to it - you cannot visit by car - one of the must-do hikes of Exmoor National Park. Exmoor has an impressive network of way-marked walks Where Are These Walks? The national park covers 693 square kilometres with two thirds located in West Somerset and one third in North Devon. The boundary extends from the vale of West Somerset in the east, almost as far as Ilfracombe and the foothills above Barnstaple in the west - to the south it falls away towards South Molton and to the north it is bordered by the vertiginous shores of the Bristol Channel. When to Walk on Exmoor In late January the snowdrops poke their heads out of the froxen soils - so much so on Exmoor that the village of Wheddon Cross even stages special daily walks to Snowdrop Valley. Often in spring the flanks of the moors turn yellow with gorse flowers. At the same time the deep valleys coombes can be filled with wild garlic. In August the high heather more are famous for their colour - often the purple heather mixes wonderfully with a second flowering of the yellow gorse. Later in the autumn you might well hear the roaring that goes on among the large herds of wild red deer. Locally it’s known as “bulving”. There even used to be an annual competition to see which person could emulate the deep roars of the red deer stags who call to one another and often fight antler to antler during the autumnal mating season. Some people like this small but intimate national park best in winter. You are more or less guaranteed solitude - but the moors are now popular enough so that many local hostelries will eon for lunch all year round. Nothing better than a bracing walk at over 1000 feet inn a westerly gale, followed by a warming lunch by a log fire in some ancient pub. Take a look at our South West Coast Path guide here Walkers high above the coast at Glenthorne Why I love Exmoor See all of the above. I was born on the edge of Exmoor and have lived inside the national park for most of my life - and my father was a well known journalist who lived and worked in the area. So Exmoor runs through my veins like its fast flowing rivers run from the the high moors. So obviously, I am biased. But I will say this which I believe to be a fact - and it’s a repetition of what I said at the begging of this post… Variety is the outstanding joy of Exmoor. In so many places you can walk for 20 or 30 minutes and the general view won’t change much at all - on Exmoor things are different. So intimate are the hills and rivers valleys thanks to the soft red sandstone the nation park is based on, that things can change drastically within just a ten minute stroll. You could be hiking across a seemingly featureless plain one minute, and gazing down into a deep tree-lined ravine the next. Or perhaps you could be wandering through a thick woodland, then ten minutes later be perched on top of a dizzying sea-cliff. No other landscape I know offers such variety. Walking landscapes and storytelling After more than two decades exploring the landscapes of the West Country as a journalist, I’ve often found that real places naturally inspire stories. The wild coasts and granite moors of Cornwall, in particular, helped inspire my mystery novel The Cornish Snapper: Granite Mystery Exmoor ponies aren't at all bothered by the snows of winter Frequently Asked Questions What are the best coastal walks on Exmoor? Exmoor boasts the highest coastline in England, creating some of the most dramatic cliff walks in Britain. The absolute pinnacle is the Countisbury and Lynmouth Loop, which climbs 1,100 feet above Lynmouth Bay to offer sweeping dual-coast views stretching all the way to Wales. Another world-class coastal route is the short but spectacular walk through the Valley of Rocks just west of Lynton, famous for its towering, prehistoric-looking devonian rock formations, sheer cliff drops, and resident herd of wild feral goats. For a gentler, wooded coastal experience, the paths climbing through Selworthy Woods offer stunning panoramas over Porlock Vale and the Bristol Channel. What are the top river valley walks on Exmoor? The deep, hidden river valleys—or "combes"—are the true heart of Exmoor's landscape. The most iconic valley walk follows the River Barle from Withypool to Tarr Steps, tracking a pristine, wooded riverbank to the famous, prehistoric clapper bridge. For an intimate, quintessential West Country meander, the riverside trail connecting the historic villages of Exford and Winsford tracks the River Exe as it loops through deep contours and active red deer territory. Finally, the dramatic gorge walk along the East Lyn River toward Watersmeet showcases tumbling rapids and steep, ancient oak woodlands managed by the National Trust, offering a perfect shaded trek even on the hot days of summer. If you want... Choose... Highest views Dunkery Beacon Waterfalls Watersmeet Ancient woodland Horner Woods History Tarr Steps Coast Valley of Rocks Wildlife The Chains Easy family walk Porlock Weir Quiet solitude Withypool Hill The high moors on the Porlock-Exford road More Frequently Asked Questions about Walking on Exmoor What is the best walk on Exmoor? That depends on what you're looking for. If it's panoramic views, Dunkery Beacon is hard to beat. For woodland and rivers, Tarr Steps and the River Barle are favourites. If dramatic sea cliffs appeal, head for the Valley of Rocks or the walk from Porlock Weir to Culbone Church. Are Exmoor walks suitable for beginners? Yes. Exmoor offers everything from gentle riverside strolls of a couple of miles to full-day hikes across open moorland. Places such as Watersmeet, Dunster and Porlock Weir are ideal for less experienced walkers. When is the best time to walk on Exmoor? Every season has its attractions. Spring brings carpets of bluebells and blossom, summer offers long days on the high moor, autumn paints the valleys in rich colours, while winter often provides the clearest skies and the quietest trails. Are there circular walks on Exmoor? There are dozens. One of the great pleasures of Exmoor is its network of circular routes combining open moorland, wooded combes and river valleys, allowing you to experience several landscapes in a single walk. Can you walk on Exmoor without climbing steep hills? Absolutely. Although Exmoor is famous for its rugged landscape, there are plenty of easier walks beside rivers such as the Barle and the Lyn, around Wimbleball Lake, or through villages including Dulverton and Dunster. Is Exmoor good for wildlife? Very much so. Walkers regularly encounter red deer, Exmoor ponies, buzzards, kestrels, peregrine falcons and countless smaller birds. Lucky visitors may even spot an otter along one of the quieter rivers. Are dogs allowed on Exmoor? Dogs are welcome on most footpaths, but owners should keep them under close control, especially during the bird nesting season and wherever livestock or wild ponies are grazing. Always follow local signs. Do I need a map for walking on Exmoor? For shorter, well-marked walks a map may not be essential, but anyone venturing onto the open moor should carry an Ordnance Survey map or suitable mapping app. Weather can change quickly and mist occasionally reduces visibility. Which Exmoor walk has the best coastal scenery? The Valley of Rocks is probably the most famous, with its dramatic cliffs and wild goats, while the coast around Porlock Weir, Hurlstone Point and Culbone Church provides some of the finest sea views anywhere in southern England. Is Exmoor one of the UK's best walking destinations? Many walkers think so. Few places combine high open moorland, ancient woodland, rushing rivers, hidden valleys and one of Britain's most spectacular coastlines within such a compact national park.

Beyond the Platform: A Refreshing Walk Through Hyde Park Suite at the Royal Lancaster There are places we all visit on a regular basis—so regular, indeed, that we no longer bother to think about them. Paddington Station is one such place for a great many Westcountry folk. Most of us have passed through it many times, and usually, our sole intention is to get out of the place as soon as possible. I was thinking this the other day when I alighted from a train on Paddington’s Platform 1. Yes, there was the statue of Paddington Bear, but there wasn’t much else that grabbed my attention. With two hours to spare before check-in, a quick look at Google Maps showed a 40-minute stroll through the middle of Hyde Park. What struck me as we marched out was that, in all the years I’ve been visiting London, I have never walked straight out of Paddington. It was marvellous to discover that the area to the south is all rather grand. Walking down Westbourne Terrace past Sussex Gardens, you soon find yourself at Lancaster Gate—the gateway to one of the capital's largest and most impressive green lungs. Luxury Living at 15 Basil Street, Knightsbridge The destination for our walk was 15 Basil Street, one of the new-style “apartment hotels” located directly opposite the back-end of Harrods. These places are for those who prefer the independence of a self-catering stay without sacrificing luxury. 15 Basil StreetA Sanctuary in the City Ranging from one to three bedrooms, these eight apartments offer a blend of contemporary design and "timeless elegance." I wanted a sanctuary while attending the annual general meeting of the British Guild of Travel Writers, and 15 Basil Street provided exactly that. Owned by the same family behind the Royal Lancaster Hotel, the quality is impeccable. There is no flimsy flat-pack furniture here; it’s all solid, tactile, and built to last. It provides the privacy of a private residence with the atmosphere of a five-star hotel. Luxury at 15 Basil Street Exploring Belgravia and Secret Pub Finds This is Belgravia, and as such, it’s about as posh as London gets. After a walk through the famous Harrods Food Halls, I found a wonderful old-fashioned gem: The Star Tavern in Belgrave Mews. I highly recommend it if you’re in need of a quiet drink in a warm setting. For dinner, we discovered The Anbar at the corner of Pavilion Road. Styled as a Mediterranean restaurant, the food was cheap and delicious. A feast of mezze dishes for two came to just £70—not bad for one of London's most prestigious neighbourhoods. Mezze dishes at The Anbar The Royal Lancaster: A Room with a View For the second night of our stay, we moved to the Royal Lancaster London. This independently owned grand hotel is a well-known institution, boasting some of the most spectacular views of the London skyline. A Home Away From Home Our vast suite on the 12th floor overlooking the park was the size of my cottage. With 411 rooms, the hotel manages to maintain a sense of character and personal service often lost in larger chains. Its location is exceptionally convenient for West Country travellers—just a five-minute walk back to Paddington Station. Dining at Tortello: Handmade Pasta with a View The hotel’s new Tortello restaurant is a triumph. Running for just a month, it offers a sophisticated interpretation of a traditional Italian trattoria. Restaurant and kitchen at Tortello The Food: Hearty choices like eight-hour slow-cooked beef shin ragù or calamarata pasta with langoustine and Dorset mussels. The Vibe: The dining room is elegant (complete with a 1960s Fiat 500 at the entrance), and there is a heated terrace overlooking the Italian Gardens of Hyde Park. The Value: With a three-course lunch menu for £35, it is remarkably fair value for this level of cooking in such a grand setting. Returning Home Our trip ended with a stroll back to Paddington for the rapid GWR service back to Taunton. It was an effortless, classy, and hugely comfortable trip. Now, all I need to do is get that shortly-to-be-announced novel onto the best-seller lists so I can make the Royal Lancaster my permanent London base! Plan Your Trip Stay at Royal Lancaster London: www.royallancaster.com Dine at Tortello Restaurant: www.tortello.com Luxury Apartments at 15 Basil Street: www.15basilstreet.com Travel with GWR: www.gwr.com Frequently Asked Questions about a Luxury London Escape Is the Royal Lancaster London a good hotel? Yes. The Royal Lancaster is a luxury hotel overlooking Hyde Park, with an excellent location for exploring central London. Its position close to Paddington also makes it particularly convenient for visitors arriving by train from the West Country. How do you get from Paddington to the Royal Lancaster London? The Royal Lancaster is within easy walking distance of Paddington Station, making it a particularly convenient choice for travellers arriving on the GWR from the West Country. The journey also takes you past Hyde Park and into one of London's most attractive central neighbourhoods. Is the Royal Lancaster London near Hyde Park? Yes. One of the hotel's biggest attractions is its position directly beside Hyde Park. Depending on the room, guests can enjoy views across the park and have easy access to its paths and gardens. Is the Royal Lancaster a good base for exploring London? Yes. Its position beside Hyde Park and close to Paddington makes it a useful base for exploring London. Knightsbridge, Belgravia, Mayfair and many of the capital's major attractions are within easy reach. Is Knightsbridge worth visiting? Definitely. Knightsbridge is one of London's most famous neighbourhoods, known for its luxury shops, elegant streets and attractions including Harrods. It is also close to Hyde Park and Belgravia, making it an enjoyable area to explore on foot. Can you walk from Paddington to Knightsbridge? Yes. Walking from Paddington through Hyde Park towards Knightsbridge is a pleasant way to see this part of London and avoids the feeling of simply travelling underground from one station to another. Is Belgravia worth visiting? Yes. Belgravia is famous for its handsome white stucco houses, garden squares and quiet streets. It provides a very different atmosphere from the busier parts of central London and is particularly enjoyable to explore on foot. What is there to do around Hyde Park? Hyde Park itself is one of London's great green spaces, while nearby attractions include Kensington Palace, Marble Arch, Knightsbridge and the museums and shops of South Kensington. It is also a good starting point for exploring central London on foot. Is London a good weekend break from the West Country? Absolutely. With direct trains arriving at Paddington, London can make a surprisingly easy short break from the West Country. Staying somewhere close to Paddington means you can be exploring the capital almost immediately after leaving the train. What is the best area to stay in London for a luxury weekend? There are many possibilities, but Paddington, Hyde Park, Knightsbridge and Belgravia are particularly attractive for a luxury weekend because they combine good transport connections with elegant surroundings, excellent restaurants, shopping and major London attractions. For Stay22, I'd make the Royal Lancaster the primary booking opportunity on this article. The general London Allez map can then sit further down the page for readers who want to compare other hotels.

There was a reason why Egyptian pharaohs, Roman emperors, Indian moguls and many others down the gold-leafed annals of the great-and-good insisted on having facilities in their palaces dedicated to the pampering of royal flesh and bones. Such human pampering was - and is - relaxing, pleasurable, and it does you good. Victoria Hotel, Sidmouth in the evening Fast forward many centuries and we British, in particular, became curiously shy of having our well-wrapped-and-safely-covered limbs manipulated, massaged and generally pampered by others. Stiff upper lip, stiff in mind, you might say. But that is very much yesterday’s news. In our fast-changing and somewhat hectic modern world, we love a bit of pampering - as is witnessed by the increasing number of spas in this country. And as a signaller of this trend, one of the newest and best is to be found in one of the most traditional British seaside resorts of them all. The four-star Victoria Hotel, at Sidmouth, has recently opened a fabulous new spa in the grand and well-known icon of hospitality which overlooks the town and its famous promenade. Why Stay at the Victoria Hotel in Sidmouth? I was musing over Roman emperors and the like the other day as I lay in a semi-darkened room in this new centre-of-pampering-excellence. There was not much else for my mind to do, as three-quarters of the rest of me was being gently pushed, pulled and gloriously pummelled. In other words, I was enjoying a full-body aromatherapy massage. This, I thought to myself, is what those highly pampered rulers-of-the-world used to enjoy thousands of years ago. In fact, 2200 years ago there was a famous Roman physician by the name of Galen, a physician to many emperors, and he was the guy responsible for making massage a staple part in their health routines. The trend caught on, and soon wealthy Romans began receiving massages regularly in their homes. Centuries before that, the ancient Greeks were already in on the act. Athenian physicians practised a form of massage with a combination of health-giving herbs and oils. And here was I, receiving exactly the same kind of pampering treatment nearly 30 centuries later. And why not? You no longer have to be an emperor or a wealthy aristocrat to enjoy such delights. The New Source Spa: One of Devon's Best Luxury Spa Experiences As I lay there thinking such thoughts, with my overly tense upper back and neck undergoing the skilled attentions of the young masseuse, I realised I was - in some obscure way - having a gentle argument with my younger self. Because 25 years ago I was terribly old-fashioned and also pretty ignorant when it came to such things. My attitude back then would have been to think that spas were there only for posh women and certainly not for men, of any kind, particularly not robust countrymen like me. How silly, and how wrong! Let me tell you, everyone I know could do with a full body aromatherapy massage. The Victoria Hotel’s new Source Spa has an indoor heated pool, a modern gym, a hydrotherapy spa bath, aromatherapy sauna, and steam room. The luxury treatment rooms, staffed by highly skilled spa therapists, offer a range of treatments including massages, revitalising facials, and invigorating body treatments, all designed to pamper and restore both body and mind. The hotel is part of the Brend Collection - a family run business based in Devon which owns eleven hotels - and the launch follows the recent success of the company’s first Source Spa at the famous Saunton Sands Hotel. Matthew Brend told us: “Our team has worked hard behind the scenes to bring a brand new luxury spa to the Victoria Hotel for guests to relax and recharge during their stay, as well as an exclusive membership offering. Since our first Source Spa at Saunton Sands Hotel was such a success, I’m confident the second edition will have the same impact and further strengthen the brand we look to continue growing across the Brend Collection.” The spa is open daily and has newly launched Spa Day packages which start at £95 per person. Spa memberships will cost £125 per month, allowing guests unlimited access and can be purchased by contacting the spa manager at spamanager@victoriahotel.co.uk. Sea View Rooms Full of Traditional Elegance We were fortunate enough to spend a night at the Victoria Hotel and we really did enjoy every minute of it. We had a luxurious deluxe sea-facing room with a large view window that was dominated by just one thing… The sea. Which is, of course, very much what you want at a seaside hotel. IF YOU'RE ENJOYING THIS POST TAKE A LOOK AT OUR DEVON WALKS Many of us also want something else: a sense of place. Book an online package to almost anywhere in the world and the likelihood is that you might end up staying somewhere that could be anywhere. I have stayed in a hotel in Vietnam which, from the perspective of its interior, could have been anywhere from Florida to Greece. I do not think I have ever stayed in a location which exudes the high-class traditional English seaside holiday quite as much as either the Victoria Hotel or, indeed, Sidmouth. And I mean that in the very best way. I am not only talking about the general classy elegance of the place (both the hotel and the town), but the amazing attention to detail. The good food, the incredibly polite, helpful and friendly staff… Award-Winning Dining at the Victoria Hotel My wife and I loved it. We loved the white-jacketed quartet playing gently away in the grand Jubilee Restaurant at dinner time and we loved the fact that the wonderfully helpful duty manager showed us around the gleaming Rolls Royce which has a staff chauffeur who will whisk guests down into town at the drop if his uniformed hat. Indeed, we would have a little spin ourselves had we not been determined to have a round of putting on the hotel’s immaculate front lawn overlooking the sea. Ever since Roman emperors were having their massages all those centuries ago, there have been a great many troubles in this world - and now we seem to have returned to worrying times. I put it this way because, as I lay there having my massage, the thought struck me that visiting a place like this offers the ultimate antidote. This is wonderful, peaceful old, England at its best. The hotel was built in the Victorian era and a great many elements of the original ethos have remained. Tradition, attention to detail, politeness, thoroughness, an exacting level of care… Indeed, the overall gentility of the place. I’ll take this wonderful combination by the bucket and spade-full. Rooms start at £269 (for two guests in a standard double) and can be booked via the hotel’s website www.victoriahotel.co.uk - for more information on the Brend Collection go to www.brend-hotels.co.uk Exploring Sidmouth and the Jurassic Coast Middle England doesn’t really exist, but those looking for it could do worse than explore Sidmouth - a town so rich in the wonderful ephemera of an older more traditional Britain that you could shoot a remake of Dad’s Army in wartime Warmington-on-Sea without doing much to the fabric of the place. I recall visiting a delicatessen in town which had a sign declaring it was established nearly two centuries ago. The wonderful Fields, the town’s rather famous departmental store, bears the logo: “For Service As It Used To Be”. There are some fabulous walks around Sidmouth, but you might well need a massage after enjoying one or two of them. Why? Because if you take the South West Coast Path in either direction, the only way is up. Steeply up, at that. Head west out of the Victoria Hotel and you will climb, and climb, High Peak - the name of which gives some clue as to the size of this coastal eminence. I’d recommend anyone who’s fit enough to take the hike over this tree-topped ridge to Ladram Bay with its attractive shingle beach and its big bold red-rock sea-stacks. To the east of town there’s another perpendicular stroll up Salcombe Hill Cliff. Considerably up. The best part of 500 feet if you are counting. At the top you will be able to turn around and see what could be known as Red Sandstone Country. And what country it is! Being soft, the sandstone is easily carved by water. Sidmouth’s valley was cleaved by the River Sid, while the neighbouring steep valley to the east was made by a stream so small it seems to have no name. Maybe it should be the Sal, because Salcombe Regis lies at the top of South Combe. It is a pretty little village with a well-to-do look about it, and it boasts a fine and dreamy old church. SIDMOUTH FOLK FESTIVAL You may have seen reports that the Sidmouth Folk Festival is preparing to celebrate its milestone 70th year with a classic offering of song, dance, music and merriment this August. Needless to say, there will be some special anniversary events to delight and unite everyone visiting or living in the picturesque Devon seaside town. Folk lovers have been making an annual pilgrimage to Sidmouth since 1955, when the very first event dipped its toe in the water with a gathering for folk-dance fans, featuring displays along the Esplanade. Seven decades later, the much-loved annual summer festival has grown into a world-renowned week-long extravaganza that’s become part of the town’s DNA, as well as a faithful stalwart of the West Country festival calendar. Sidmouth not only champions the very best of traditional and grass roots music and dance, it’s also proud to inject vibrant new energy year after year, embracing a myriad of folk-fuelled genres, as well as harnessing and nurturing the young, rising, cutting edge and culturally diverse. Check out sidmouthfolkfestival.co.uk for tickets and more details of the 2024 programme. FAQ Is the Victoria Hotel Sidmouth worth staying at? Yes. The Victoria Hotel combines traditional seaside elegance with modern luxury, including the excellent Source Spa, award-winning restaurants and one of the finest sea-front locations in Sidmouth. Does the Victoria Hotel have a spa? Yes. The hotel is home to the Source Spa, featuring an indoor heated swimming pool, hydrotherapy spa bath, sauna, steam room, gym and a wide range of beauty and massage treatments. Is the Victoria Hotel close to Sidmouth beach? Absolutely. The hotel overlooks Sidmouth's Esplanade and pebble beach, giving guests immediate access to the seafront and the spectacular Jurassic Coast. What is there to do near the Victoria Hotel? Visitors can explore the South West Coast Path, enjoy walks to High Peak and Salcombe Hill, browse Sidmouth's independent shops, visit the Donkey Sanctuary or relax on the beach. Is the Victoria Hotel good for a luxury weekend break? Yes. The combination of sea views, fine dining, afternoon tea, luxury bedrooms and the spa makes it one of the best destinations in Devon for a relaxing weekend away. Is Sidmouth worth visiting? Sidmouth is one of Devon's most attractive seaside towns, famous for its Regency architecture, dramatic red cliffs, Jurassic Coast scenery and traditional English seaside atmosphere. It also hosts the internationally renowned Sidmouth Folk Festival each summer. Does the Victoria Hotel serve afternoon tea? Yes. Afternoon tea is served daily in elegant surroundings overlooking the sea, alongside a choice of award-winning restaurants and lounges. Why the Victoria Hotel Captures the Spirit of Sidmouth What impressed me most wasn't simply the comfort of the hotel or even the excellent massage. It was the feeling that the Victoria belongs exactly where it stands. Too many modern hotels could be lifted from one country and dropped into another without anyone noticing much difference. The Victoria could only exist in Sidmouth. Everything about the place reflects the town's quiet confidence. There is no rush, no gimmickry and no attempt to be fashionable for fashion's sake. Instead, you find polished service, comfortable lounges where people still sit and talk rather than stare endlessly at their phones, beautifully prepared food and glorious views across Lyme Bay. For anyone discovering Sidmouth for the first time, the hotel makes an ideal base. Step outside and you can stroll along the Esplanade, explore the independent shops, wander the famous gardens or tackle some of the finest stretches of the South West Coast Path. Walk east towards Salcombe Hill or west towards Ladram Bay and you'll quickly understand why this section of the Jurassic Coast is one of the most beautiful anywhere in England. Afterwards, returning to the hotel feels rather like coming home. Whether it's afternoon tea overlooking the sea, a quiet drink in Bertie's Bar or another hour in the Source Spa, the Victoria has mastered something increasingly rare: the art of helping guests slow down. In a busy world, that may be its greatest luxury of all.

Boringdon Hall Hotel: History, Luxury and Michelin-Star Dining Every region has a small clutch of grand hotels whose names and reputations are well known to most local people. They are the places to which we doff our collective cap — the venues which host our big social events and special occasions — the hostelries where we expect the best to simply be the best. Best bib-and-tucker, best food, best service, best accommodation etc etc… I can think of half-a-dozen such hotels in the South West peninsula, and recently I was fortunate enough to stay a night in one such establishment and enjoy a truly outstanding dinner. Luxury and Heritage at Boringdon Hall, Near Plymouth Boringdon Hall Hotel, near Plymouth, is one of the West Country’s grand hotels — it has an outstanding reputation as well as a well-known chef and a much-celebrated spa. Another way of describing the place would be to say it’s a living piece of history — a magnificent manor that has evolved from a grand family home to one of the most celebrated luxury destinations in Devon and the South West of England. Check another Devon hotel here A Manor Steeped in History The history of the old manor stretches back nearly a thousand years, with its first mention in the Domesday Book. Later, the estate was acquired by the Parker family in the 16th century, a lineage that would become the Earls of Morley. It was during this period that the magnificent old mansion began to take shape. The family’s wealth and influence allowed them to create an impressive Tudor and Jacobean masterpiece. Not surprisingly, that local swashbuckler, Sir Walter Raleigh, was a friend of the Parker family and a frequent visitor, and the room he’s said to have slept in — with its intricate plasterwork and oak panelling — is still a feature of the hotel today. A Fusion of Old and New Design As you drive up into the hills above Plympton and turn off into the hotel drive, you are confronted with all this historic glory. There’s the impressive Great Hall, with its soaring ceiling and a magnificent fireplace, but behind the ancient frontage there’s a surprise. That is because the house is built on a hillside, and modern architects have cleverly designed an almost futuristic extension which climbs the contours, hiding a state-of-the-art spa complete with a heated swimming pool, as well as an upper floor restaurant and a new wing of comfortable suites. From Neglect to Rebirth Strange to think that this extraordinary estate, situated just a couple of miles outside Plymouth, was once left dormant and decaying for decades. It would have become a sad ruin, but in the 21st century it was acquired by the Nettleton family, who embarked on an ambitious project to restore its former glory while introducing all that modern luxury and comfort. The major restoration was one of those labours of love — the family carefully set about preserving the Hall’s historic features, from its leaded windows to its original fireplaces, while integrating elements of contemporary design and technology. The result is a blend of old-world charm and modern sophistication. The historic rooms, with their four-poster beds and antique furniture, offer a sense of stepping back in time, while the newer wings provide the sleek elegance you’d expect from a five-star hotel in Devon. The Gaia Spa: A Sanctuary of Wellness A major turning point in Boringdon’s rise to prominence came with the creation of the award-winning Gaia Spa. The owners say this was a game-changer in Boringdon’s long history. The architects were asked to retain a connection to the natural environment which stretches away to the southern foothills of Dartmoor National Park, while designing a sanctuary of wellness and relaxation. They’ve incorporated natural materials and light to reflect the surrounding landscape. It’s quite something: you’re just minutes from a city of over 250,000 people, yet standing on the very edge of Dartmoor. After a sumptuous afternoon tea at Boringdon Hall, my wife and I drove up for a quick two-hour walk in one of Dartmoor’s most beautiful corners — a reminder of how perfectly this place blends indulgence and nature. Michelin-Star Dining at Àclèaf Restaurant Boringdon Hall has also become a culinary destination in recent years. I first went there nine years ago when the restaurant had just been taken over by a new, very young head chef called Scott Paton. The food was marvellous then, and it is even better now. Scott is still there, and since 2023 has been the proud holder of one of the highest accolades in the culinary world — a Michelin Star. “In my 20 years of cooking it’s always been a goal to achieve a Michelin Star,” he told me. “Since joining Boringdon Hall and receiving the faith and trust from the directors, that goal became so much closer after the launch of our Àclèaf restaurant. We pushed so much harder, not just for the star, but for all-round excellence.” “I’ve never worked with a team who drive themselves so hard, so for that I’m so delighted. The Michelin Star rewarded the team with recognition for all their hard work.” Fine Dining Menus Celebrating the South West The Àclèaf fine dining restaurant offers a sophisticated menu that champions local and seasonal produce. The chefs combine classic techniques with innovative flair, creating dishes that are as visually stunning as they are delicious. These are meals for special occasions (see below for our tasting menu experience). Afternoon Tea and Relaxation But I must not forget the large and lovely afternoon tea at Boringdon Hall. Locals and visitors are now regarding this multi-tier of sweet and savoury delights as something of an occasion — and a very popular one it is too. A special festive afternoon tea is being launched this month. Like I say, though, you might want to plan a walk on nearby Dartmoor to work off the indulgence — or perhaps simply enjoy a long afternoon of relaxation in the Gaia Spa. Seasonal Menus with a Michelin Chef Boringdon’s Àclèaf restaurant offers a choice between the signature four-course tasting menu (£130 per person) and the newly introduced seven-course tasting experience (£180pp), each featuring optional wine or sparkling wine pairings from the cellar. Chef Scott Paton says of his new seasonal offering: “Indulge in the essence of autumn with a menu showcasing the finest sustainable ingredients from the South West. Savour the rich, earthy flavours of wild venison harvested from Devon estates, paired with the delicate, pristine brill from Brixham. Each dish is a celebration of seasonality, crafted to elevate the natural brilliance of these ingredients into a harmonious and unforgettable dining experience.” The menu includes delights such as tuna with truffle and sesame, local crab with curry and mango, turbot with langoustine and green chilli, quail with celeriac and Puy lentil, venison with pear and whisky, and a Comice pear with blackberry and cinnamon. I am happy to go on the record and say that the dinner at Àclèaf was one of the best autumnal feasts in Devon I have enjoyed in a long time. Boringdon Hall: Where Devon’s Past Meets Modern Luxury With its historic architecture, Michelin-starred dining, luxury spa, and proximity to Dartmoor National Park, Boringdon Hall is one of the best hotels in Devon for those seeking a getaway that combines heritage, indulgence, and natural beauty. Whether you come for a romantic weekend, a spa retreat, or a culinary celebration, Boringdon Hall offers the kind of experience that lingers in the memory — a perfect marriage of Devon’s past and present. Frequently Asked Questions about Boringdon Hall Hotel Is Boringdon Hall a good hotel? Yes. Boringdon Hall is a five-star country house hotel near Plymouth, combining the character of a historic Devon manor with modern luxury. It has elegant rooms and suites, fine dining, beautiful grounds and the award-winning Gaia Spa. Where is Boringdon Hall Hotel? Boringdon Hall is near Plympton, just outside Plymouth in Devon. Its location makes it convenient for exploring both Plymouth and the surrounding Devon countryside, while still feeling like a rural country-house escape. Is Boringdon Hall a good place for a spa break? Yes. The Gaia Spa is one of the hotel's major attractions and is designed as a destination spa within the Boringdon estate. It offers a wide range of facilities and treatments and makes the hotel particularly suited to relaxing weekend and luxury spa breaks. Does Boringdon Hall have a Michelin-starred restaurant? Yes. Boringdon Hall is home to Àclèaf, which holds a Michelin star, as well as the more informal Mayflower Brasserie. This makes the hotel particularly attractive to visitors who combine a luxury hotel stay with fine dining. How old is Boringdon Hall? Boringdon Hall has a remarkably long history, with its story stretching back to the Domesday Book. The present Elizabethan house incorporates elements of the earlier medieval building and was substantially remodelled in the 16th century. Is Boringdon Hall near Plymouth? Yes. Boringdon Hall is only a short drive from Plymouth, making it possible to combine a peaceful country-house stay with visits to the city, the South Devon coast and Dartmoor. Does Boringdon Hall have parking? Yes. There is complimentary on-site parking for hotel and spa guests, with EV charging also available. Is Boringdon Hall suitable for a romantic weekend? It certainly lends itself to a romantic break, particularly for couples looking for somewhere special with a historic setting, good food, spa facilities and luxurious accommodation. The combination of the old manor house and modern Gaia Spa gives it a distinctive atmosphere. What is there to do near Boringdon Hall? Plymouth, Dartmoor and the South Devon coast are all within easy reach. The hotel is also well placed for exploring the wider Devon countryside, making it suitable for both a relaxing stay and a touring holiday. Is Boringdon Hall worth visiting? In my view, the attraction is that it offers considerably more than simply a luxury bedroom. The history of the house, its food, spa and setting combine to make Boringdon Hall an experience in its own right.