Pedna Olva, St Autell Brewery's amazing St Ives hostelry on its own small headland West Cornwall—that wild, granite-bound toe of the British Isles—is home to some of the most dramatic coastal landscapes in the world. But finding the right base to soak it all in can make or break a trip. Over decades of reviewing travel accommodation across the South West, I’ve stayed in everything from the classic coastal pub-with-rooms to high-end luxury lodges right on the sand. Here are 6 fantastic places to stay in West Cornwall, tested and reviewed from personal experience. Quick Look: 6 West Cornwall Highlights Accommodation Location Vibe / Ideal For 1. Pedn Olva St Ives Dramatic sea views & coastal pub-with-rooms 2. Carbis Bay Estate Near St Ives Pure luxury, as good as you can get, private hot tubs & G7 prestige 3. Chapel House Penzance Ultra-stylish, informal Georgian townhouse guesthouse 4. The Fallen Angel Mousehole Decadent, small, stylish, private architectural hideaway for two 5. The Old Coastguard Mousehole Contemporary seaside hotel with exceptional food 6. Honors House Zennor Secluded National Trust cottage on the rugged north coast Cape Cornwall, one of the most enigmatic spots west of the Tamar 1. Pedn Olva, St Ives Best for: Panoramic ocean views right from your bed... Perched on the granite rocks above Porthminster Beach, St Austell Brewery’s Pedn Olva offers one of the few hotel experiences where you can enjoy a full-on maritime storm without setting foot on a boat. The property features expansive outdoor terraces, a rooftop deck with sweeping views across the bay, and a 10-metre central bar accented by local artwork. All 27 bedrooms have been refurbished in coastal tones, each boasting sea views. Dining champions hyper-local ingredients - including daily catches from nearby suppliers. If you want a stay where the room itself feels like the destination, this is hard to beat. See our full review here Enjoying a pint at Pedn Olva, overlooking St Ives 2. Carbis Bay Hotel & Estate, St Ives Best for: Top-tier luxury, private beach lodges, and spa breaks The great sweep of Carbis Bay, Cornwall Famous for hosting world leaders during the 2021 G7 Summit, the Carbis Bay Estate offers world-class luxury on a private stretch of golden sand. The beachside lodges feature floor-to-ceiling glass frontages, private gardens steps from the surf, and outdoor hot tubs perfect for watching an ocean gale in total comfort. For a more traditional boutique hotel stay, rooms in the Main House offer a cosy retreat with access to exceptional dining at Walters on the Beach and the estate’s luxury spa facilities. See our full review here An interior in one of the amazing lodges on the beach at Carbis Bay 3. Chapel House, Penzance Best for: Boutique Georgian elegance and informal coastal luxury... Chapel House, Penzance in the evening Penzance marks the iconic end of the line where mainland Britain meets the wild Atlantic. Tucked near the historic harbour, Chapel House is an exquisite 1790 Georgian townhouse converted into an ultra-stylish guesthouse by owner Susan Stuart. See our full review here The lounge at Chapel House, Penzance Combining restored historic detail with modern artwork curated by the Newlyn School of Art, Chapel House balances high design with genuine warmth. Bedrooms feature sea views across Mount's Bay, Cabuchon egg-shaped baths, and Japanese soaking tubs. With no formal reception desk, the emphasis is entirely on making guests feel at home—complete with homemade cake, a garden terrace, and hearty breakfasts in the flagstoned kitchen. Interior of one of the guest rooms at Chapel House, Penzance 4. The Fallen Angel, Mousehole Best for: Romantic elopements and architectural design lovers Tucked into the steep contours above the picturesque fishing village of Mousehole, The Fallen Angel is a striking, one-of-a-kind architect-designed retreat for two. Exterior of The Fallen Angel, Mousehole, seen through its garden This modern upside-down villa features a light-filled living room and kitchen upstairs to maximize panoramic coastal views over Mount's Bay, while the ground floor holds a cozy bedroom complete with a freestanding antique bath. Set within private sub-tropical terraced gardens, it offers total seclusion for couples looking for an indulgent, high-end hideaway off the beaten path. See our full review here Interior at the Fallen Angel, Mousehole, showing sea views through the windows 5. The Old Coastguard, Mousehole Best for: Laidback seaside charm and award-winning dining... Run by the Inkin brothers (the team behind The Gurnard’s Head in Zennor), The Old Coastguard is a classic 14-bedroom seaside hotel situated right on the water's edge in Mousehole. Mousehole Harbour, as seen from my roon at The old Coastguard Awarded Seaside Hotel of the Year by the Good Hotel Guide, it balances relaxed, unpretentious hospitality with outstanding food. Most rooms look out over the sun-dappled gardens toward the sea, making it a perfect base for exploring the coastal path before returning for dinner featuring wild, locally foraged ingredients and Cornish seafood. See our Cornwall walks page here Bathroom with a view, The Old Coastguard, Mousehole 6. Honor’s House, Zennor Best for: Rugged isolation and coastal hiking For those who prefer self-catering among the wild moors and cliffs of the north coast, Honor’s House in Zennor is a standout National Trust holiday cottage. Walkers on the moors at Zennor, West Cornwall Situated in the heart of West Penwith's ancient landscape, this traditional granite property offers immediate access to dramatic cliff walks along the South West Coast Path. It’s ideal for walkers, creative retreats, or anyone wanting to swap town life for wind-swept granite, wild Atlantic waves, and cozy evenings near a fireside pub like The Gurnard’s Head.

Discover One of Cornwall's Best Hidden Hotels There are plenty of fine hotels in Cornwall, but very few can honestly claim to have their own secluded beach. Hotel Meudon can. Hidden away in a peaceful wooded valley between Falmouth and the Helford River, it feels wonderfully removed from the bustle of modern life. Instead of traffic noise there is birdsong, the gentle rustle of giant tree ferns and, somewhere below, the distant murmur of the sea. Why Stay at Hotel Meudon? One of the greatest pleasures of staying here is simply wandering. The hotel's beautiful subtropical gardens tumble down the valley towards Bream Cove, a tiny private beach where the South West Coast Path passes almost unnoticed through one of Cornwall's most peaceful corners. It's the sort of place that encourages you to slow down, breathe deeply and remember why holidays should never be rushed. If you're looking for a luxury hotel near Falmouth that offers something genuinely different, Hotel Meudon is much more than a comfortable place to sleep. It is a destination in its own right. Hotel Meudon in the evening Balance is an interesting word. The older you get, the more you realise just how important the idea of balance can be. In China, where I’ve been recently, they talk about yin-yang, so on the plane home I was inspired to practice a bit of balance and harmony. For example, I’d been in the Far East, so why not counter-balance that by going to the Far West? In UK terms, that means Cornwall. So, I thought, west of the Tamar I shall go… But, also in the search for a bit of harmony, I was feeling the need for somewhere calming, beautiful and peaceful after all those airports and vast concrete Chinese cities. I’d heard of just the place. The Hotel Meudon is tucked away on a very special section of coast just south of Falmouth, and it seemed to tick all the required boxes. Planning a Stay Near Falmouth or the Helford River? Whether you're looking for a luxury hotel, a cosy guest house, a holiday cottage or a seaside apartment, it's worth comparing accommodation across this beautiful part of south Cornwall before you book. For a start, this is subtropical garden country. There’s no other corner of Britain like it. The hotel’s near neighbours are the amazing Trebah Gardens and also the National Trust’s gorgeous garden property at Glendurgan. Which really are astonishing places. Tens of thousands of visitors pay good money each year to walk around this duo of delectable demesnes. And here’s the really cool thing about the Hotel Meudon… It has its own subtropical gardens, tucked away in a deep valley which (as is the case with the two neighbouring properties) stretches down to the sea. CHECK OUT OUR CORNWALL WALKS PAGE HERE It’s these highly sheltered and warm valleys that allows them to play host to all manner of plants which couldn’t be grown in the country outside a greenhouse. Where better to escape the madding crowd? What finer antidote to the teeming millions I’d walked among in those vast modern Chinese cities? In fact, the Hotel Meudon describes itself as being… “A world unto itself. Nestled in magical, subtropical gardens, a stone’s throw from our privately owned beach, the newly refurbished hotel is a secluded Cornish paradise.” Located near the village of Mawnan Smith, between Falmouth and the Helford River, the hotel is perched at the top of its own gardens which hare tucked into a tree-lined valley. A ten-minute stroll down the coombe takes you to Bream Cove, the hotel’s own secluded beach. From the moment I threw my suitcase into one of the specious and comfortable garden rooms I knew I’d found just the right antidote to the mega-cities of China. These seaborne valleys in southern Cornwall are among the most peaceful places in all of northern Europe. They really can exude the kind of peace and quiet that can be experienced in so few other places. How can that be? Because coastal Cornwall can be a wild and windy place. Often you’ll hear the boom of distant breakers pounding on the sea-cliffs and the whine of the wind in trees, eaves and telegraph wires. But step into one of these deep shelter-zones and everything changes. Silence ensues. Even the birds seem to know that these are special places. Within five minutes of checking in to the Hotel Meudon on Tuesday, I found myself strolling through a veritable world of birdsong. As a bloke who lives in deep countryside, you wouldn’t think I’d make a big deal about a load of chirping and chirruping. But this was different to the feathered cacophony I hear in my Exmoor valley. It was far, far more intense. It struck me that there must be many thousands of birds down there in the deep and dripping vale. I barely caught a glimpse of one of our feathered friends, but there were obviously in great flocks of little brown jobs flitting about somewhere in the stillness between the giant tree-ferns and the bamboo plantations. See another luxury hotel in Cornwall here We spent a couple of nights at the Hotel Meudon this week and I loved every minute of it. Having undergone an extensive refurbishment in 2021, the hotel has been transformed into what the owners like to call “a stylish home from home”. The Meudon was originally the home to members of the well-known Fox family, local Quakers who owned several large properties in and around Falmouth, including both Glendurgan and Trebah. At what is now the site of the Meudon, shipping agent Howard Fox joined with wealthy banker and MP, Edmund Backhouse, to transport plants from far-flung reaches of the globe. Although much of the structure of the main building dates back to this time, Meudon also incorporates two 17th-century coastguard cottages (complete with escape tunnel – apparently the local coastguards were not averse to a little smuggling). Strange name, Meudon. It’s said to come from a nearby farmhouse, which was built by Napoleonic prisoners of war and named after their home village near Paris. The original, Mowi do Non, became shortened to Meudon. Anyway, as I say, I loved our brief stay at the hotel and look forward to making a return visit, perhaps in springtime when these subtropical valleys come alive with exotic blooms. The Hotel Meudon, as its owners suggest, is one of those home-from-home establishments where you can find yourself relaxing so deeply the cares of the wicked world seem to drift away. By the time our two-night stay had come to an end, I really had regained my equanimity and life loomed gloriously in one big harmonious balance. Find out more at https://www.meudon.co.uk/. Finding Balance in the West: A Stay at Hotel Meudon, Cornwall Balance is an interesting word. The older you get, the more you realise just how important the idea of balance can be. In China, where I’ve been recently, they talk about yin-yang – a philosophy that inspired me to seek balance and harmony on my return. After exploring the Far East, it seemed fitting to counterbalance that with a journey to the Far West of the UK – Cornwall. 🌊 Seeking Harmony in Cornwall After bustling airports and sprawling concrete cities in China, I was in search of calm, beauty, and peace. I'd heard of just the place: Hotel Meudon, tucked away on a special stretch of coast just south of Falmouth. This tranquil retreat seemed to check all the boxes for balance and serenity. Nestled amidst subtropical gardens, Hotel Meudon is situated in a part of Britain unlike any other. Its neighbours are the stunning Trebah Gardens and the National Trust’s Glendurgan Gardens, both well worth a visit for their lush, enchanting landscapes. What makes Hotel Meudon truly special is that it has its own subtropical gardens that extend down a valley, right to the sea – a place of genuine tranquillity. A Garden Paradise by the Sea 🌿 These valleys, warm and sheltered, make it possible for a variety of exotic plants to thrive outside of greenhouses, offering a unique experience in Cornwall. For me, it was the perfect antidote to the teeming millions I had encountered in China's vast cities. Hotel Meudon describes itself as: “A world unto itself. Nestled in magical, subtropical gardens, a stone’s throw from our privately owned beach, the newly refurbished hotel is a secluded Cornish paradise.” And that, it truly is. Situated between Falmouth and the Helford River, near the village of Mawnan Smith, the hotel perches atop a tree-lined valley. A ten-minute stroll through the gardens brings you to Bream Cove, a secluded beach owned by the hotel – a delightful escape from the crowds. 🏖️ A Secluded Escape – Perfect Balance From the moment I arrived, throwing my suitcase into one of the spacious garden rooms, I knew I'd found the right place to recover from my travels. The valleys of southern Cornwall exude a peace and stillness rarely found elsewhere in northern Europe. Even the birds seemed to recognize the special nature of these places, providing a symphony of birdsong as I wandered through the gardens. 🎶 Hotel Meudon underwent a comprehensive refurbishment in 2021, transforming it into what the owners describe as a “stylish home from home.” Originally part of the Fox family's estate – a well-known local Quaker family – the hotel holds a rich history, including elements of 17th-century coastguard cottages. The name Meudon is said to come from a nearby farmhouse, originally built by Napoleonic prisoners of war who named it after their home village near Paris. The name has evolved over time, yet the sense of history remains, adding charm to the hotel's enchanting location. An Idyllic Stay Awaiting Your Visit My time at Hotel Meudon was brief but memorable. I look forward to returning, perhaps in spring, when the subtropical gardens come alive with vibrant blooms. 🌸 This Cornish gem truly lives up to its promise of a home away from home, where relaxation is effortless and the worries of the world simply melt away. After two nights, I felt restored, and balance was once again a reality. Things to Do Near Hotel Meudon The hotel makes an excellent base for exploring one of Cornwall's loveliest coastlines. Just a few minutes away are the celebrated gardens at Trebah and Glendurgan, both famous for their exotic planting and spectacular valley walks to the sea. The beautiful Helford River, one of Cornwall's most enchanting estuaries, is close by, offering opportunities for boat trips, kayaking, wildlife watching and leisurely waterside lunches. Walkers are particularly well served. Step straight from the hotel onto the South West Coast Path and you'll discover secluded coves, dramatic cliffs and glorious sea views stretching towards Falmouth in one direction and the Helford in the other. It's a landscape that rewards slow exploration. Why the Helford River Is One of Cornwall's Best Kept Secrets Visitors often flock to St Ives or Padstow, but the Helford has always seemed to me to represent a quieter, gentler Cornwall. Ancient oak woodlands tumble down to peaceful creeks where sailing boats swing gently on their moorings and little seems to change from one year to the next. Daphne du Maurier loved this coastline, and it's easy to understand why. There is something wonderfully timeless about this corner of Cornwall. Spend a few days here and you'll return home with sandy walking boots, a camera full of photographs and a feeling that you've discovered somewhere rather special. If you’re seeking a place to unwind and experience the harmony of Cornwall’s hidden gardens, Hotel Meudon awaits you. 🌿✨ FAQ Is Hotel Meudon a luxury hotel? Yes. Hotel Meudon is regarded as one of Cornwall's most distinctive luxury hotels, offering elegant rooms, award-winning dining, beautiful subtropical gardens and exclusive access to a secluded private beach. Where is Hotel Meudon? Hotel Meudon is located near Mawnan Smith between Falmouth and the Helford River in south Cornwall, making it an excellent base for exploring this beautiful stretch of coastline. Does Hotel Meudon have a private beach? Yes. One of Hotel Meudon's unique features is its private access to Bream Cove, a secluded beach reached through the hotel's stunning gardens. What attractions are close to Hotel Meudon? Nearby attractions include the Helford River, Trebah Garden, Glendurgan Garden, the South West Coast Path, Pendennis Castle and the maritime town of Falmouth. Is Hotel Meudon good for walkers? Absolutely. The South West Coast Path passes close to the hotel, offering spectacular walks along the Cornish coastline and easy access to secluded coves and the Helford estuary. When is the best time to visit Hotel Meudon? Spring and early summer are particularly beautiful when the hotel's subtropical gardens are bursting into colour, although the hotel offers a peaceful retreat throughout the year.

From the sweeping sands of Bideford Bay to the sheer, dizzying sea-cliffs of Exmoor, North Devon offers a landscape of striking contrasts. Whether you are tracing lost Victorian railway lines, exploring secret sea-coves, or wandering through vast dune systems, these four circular routes capture the very best of the northern coast. Coast path near Westward Ho! 1. Westward Ho! & Cornborough Cliffs Circular "Westward Ho! is the only place in Britain to have an exclamation mark as part of its name. It’s a delightful and idiosyncratic Victorian seaside resort—and fertile ground for chalets and caravans. But we walkers needn’t concern ourselves with any of this, as we’re about to turn our backs on the whole shooting match." Fact File Distance & Going: 4 miles | Very easy going; flat coastal paths along a disused railway cutting, gentle field footpaths, and quiet country lanes. Start & Parking: Coastal Car Park at the far western end of Westward Ho! (EX39 1JU), near the cliff edge. Pub Pitstop: The Pier House or The Pig on the Hill (Abbotsham) — great for local ales, sea views, and hearty post-walk lunches. Dog-friendly. IF YOU ENJOY THESE WALKS CHECK OUT OUR DEVON WALKS HUB HERE Westward Ho! The Route Narrative Leaving Westward Ho! behind, pass the coastal dog-walking field and round the point at Rock Nose. Here, the path enters a distinct cutting with a wide, level track that speaks immediately of a permanent way. This was once part of the short-lived Bideford, Westward Ho! and Appledore Railway, which ran along this remote stretch of shore until the steam engines were called up for war service in 1917. Follow the wild, atmospheric track past Cornborough Cliffs Halt—where local laver collectors once gathered seaweed—and take in the vast views sweeping southwest toward Clovelly and Hartland Point. Coast heading away west from Westward Ho! Where the old railway line veers inland toward Bideford, cross the small footbridge over the coastal stream and pick up the public footpath heading up across the fields toward Abbotsham Court. Follow the paved lane inland past Rickard’s Down and through the quiet hamlet of Lake. From Buckleigh, a National Trust right-of-way leads back through high pastureland with superb views over Bideford Bay, descending sharply to the starting car park. The Pub & Stay Anchor After soaking up the wild Atlantic breezes at Cornborough, drop into The Pier House perched directly on the sea wall at Westward Ho!, or head slightly inland to The Pig on the Hill at Abbotsham for country pub dining. If you are planning a longer break in the area, Westward Ho! and nearby Appledore offer an excellent range of ocean-facing holiday apartments, coastal chalets, and historic cottages. The rocky beaches west of Westward Ho! 2. Trentishoe & Heddon’s Mouth Cleave High Circuit "Stand high on the western rim of Exmoor's rift valley and you get the impression that God used an axe when he created this little lot." Heddon's Mouth Cleave from Trentishoe Fact File Distance & Going: 3 miles | Easy going; high-level road walking along quiet byways, smooth contour footpaths, and cliff paths. Start & Parking: Roadside parking at Holdstone Down (EX31 4QJ), where the open moorland meets the walled fields above Trentishoe. Pub Pitstop: The Hunter’s Inn, Heddon’s Valley — a famous characterful inn tucked in the valley below, perfect for local cider, real ales, and pub meals. The Route Narrative This high-altitude circuit stays on a level contour around the roof of the Exmoor coast, offering vertiginous sea views without grueling climbs. Walk down Trentishoe Lane, a peaceful car-an-hour byway, toward the tiny 15th-century Church of St Peter. Tucked away in its hollow, this modest house of worship was once a haven for local smugglers—in 1827, Customs men seized 262 tubs of contraband brandy hidden under a local farmer’s stable floor. Looking down on Hunter's Inn from Trentishoe Just below Trentishoe, pick up the footpath branching left off the lane. The ground suddenly opens up into the great void of Heddon’s Mouth Cleave—a towering, 700-foot ravine with steep shale slopes plunging down to the rushing river below. Follow the high path as it edges north around the great shoulder of the cleave above the sea, rounding the hill west toward East Cleave. Pick up the South West Coast Path past North Cleave Gut—home to some of the highest, most impenetrable sea-cliffs in England—before curving inland around the field boundaries back to Holdstone Down. Church window at Trentishoe The Pub & Stay Anchor To cap off this high-level walk, drive the short distance down into the wooded valley to The Hunter’s Inn, an iconic Victorian lodge offering fine ales and riverside gardens. For a peaceful Exmoor escape, the quiet hamlets of Trentishoe, Martinhoe, and Woody Bay offer secluded stone holiday cottages and country guesthouses surrounded by wild moorland. WHY NOT TAKE A LOOK AT 6 GREAT DEVON PUB WALKS HERE The church at Trentishoe 3. Northam Burrows Peninsula Loop "Northam Burrows is a magical dune-land jutting into the bay, offering a remarkable opportunity for 'foreign travel'. It is reminiscent of Holland—as if a bit of Texel has been cut adrift and somehow ended up on the Devon coast like a big flat piece of sandy jetsam." Northam Burrows from the sea Fact File Distance & Going: 5 miles | Easy, flat walking; sandy beaches, wooden boardwalks, shingle ridges, and grassy dune paths. Start & Parking: Sandymere Car Park, Northam Burrows Country Park (EX39 1XS). Pub Pitstop: The Beaver Inn or The Globe Inn (Appledore) — historic maritime pubs serving fresh local seafood and cask ales right on the estuary waterfront. Appledore from Northam Burrows The Route Narrative Begin by crossing the wooden boardwalk over the great shingle ridge and dropping down onto the vast, 3-kilometre sandy beach stretching north from Westward Ho! Walk north across the wide sands toward Zulu Sands, where razor-shells litter the tide line and kite-buggies catch the Atlantic winds. At the northern tip of the peninsula, where the combined waters of the Taw and Torridge rivers sweep out to sea, turn the corner and follow the shingle ridge inland along the river shore. Westward Ho! from Northam Burrows Here, the South West Coast Path skirts the famous Royal North Devon Golf Club—where local 'potwallopers' still exercise ancient grazing rights for their sheep and ponies. Follow the trail past the salt-marsh creek of The Skern, an internationally important sanctuary for wading birds, before cutting back across the spiky Sharp Rush dunes and Sandymere back to the car park. The Pub & Stay Anchor Follow the trail right to the edge of neighbouring Appledore and visit The Beaver Inn for a pint overlooking the Torridge Estuary, or explore the narrow, colorful lanes to find a traditional quayside tavern. Northam Burrows and Appledore are ideal for a coastal getaway, offering everything from quayside fishermen's cottages to modern apartments overlooking Bideford Bay. Gulls and mud on Northam Burrows, 4. Ilfracombe, Torrs Park & Lee Bay Circular "Between Mortehoe and Ilfracombe lies an extraordinarily engineered landscape where Victorian railway pioneers carved tunnels straight through the granite hills to reach the Severn Sea." Ilfracombe Harbour Fact File Distance & Going: 9 miles (or 6 miles with short-cut) | Moderate to energetic going; flat disused railway tracks, stone tunnels, steep coastal paths, and wooded coombe paths. Start & Parking: Old Railway Bridge Car Park near Mortehoe Station / Borough Road (EX34 8ET). Pub Pitstop: The Grampus Inn, Lee Bay — an atmospheric 14th-century coastal pub featuring home-brewed ales, a lovely garden, and local food. Dog-friendly. A walker taking our path west of Ilfracombe The Route Narrative Set off north along the disused Barnstaple-to-Ilfracombe railway line. Opened in 1874 to carry the grand Atlantic Coast Express, this path sinks into immense rock cuttings before passing through a fine stone-walled tunnel beneath the hills. Beyond the tunnel, the track passes two quiet reservoirs before descending through the Welsh Valley-like suburb of Lower Slade. Follow the line down into the seaside town of Ilfracombe to pick up the South West Coast Path. The trail climbs steeply up through The Seven Hills out onto Torrs Park—a high National Trust coastal heath offering sweeping views across the Bristol Channel toward South Wales. View of Iflracombe from the west The coast path winds west over the high cliffs before dropping into the quiet, sheltered cove of Lee Bay. From the sea front, head inland up the wooded coombe, following marked footpaths up through the trees to rejoin the lane near the old railway bridge. The Pub & Stay Anchor Nestled in the quiet valley at the end of the coastal stretch sits The Grampus Inn at Lee Bay, a legendary stop for walkers offering local beers, farm-fresh dishes, and a warm fireside welcome. Lee Bay and the high coastal heath above Ilfracombe offer lovely secluded stone cottages, cliff-top apartments, and traditional B&Bs along the North Devon coast. A seagull observes Ilfracombe harbour

West Penwith is a landscape of extraordinary opposites—where granite cliffs drop into turquoise waters, and ancient tin-mining heritage sits alongside Atlantic gales and sudden, creeping sea fogs. Whether you’re stepping through Iron Age ramparts or watching the waves from a tucked-away coastal tavern, these four coastal routes capture the very best of England’s far-western frontier. Sennen Cove 1. St Just to Sennen Cove (Linear Coastal Walk) "St Just, dubbed as Britain's first and last town, is in the land of fogs. It's also quite often in the land of intense, sea-borne light—out here on the peninsula, you take pot-luck." Fact File Distance & Going: 5 miles | Easy to moderate going; country lanes, field paths, and exposed coastal cliff tracks. Start & Parking: St Just Town Centre (TR19 7JD). Pub Pitstop: The Old Success Inn, Sennen Cove — classic seaside pub with harbour views, local ales, and hearty seafood. Dog-friendly. Logistics: Linear walk. Catch the local bus service from Sennen Cove back to St Just. The Route Narrative St Just has a severe, captivating atmosphere shaped by its Methodist chapels and the silent, towering chimneys of disused tin mines. Leaving the triangular town square, follow the Bosorne Road down into the wooded depths of Cot Valley. Rather than taking the low coastal route past the hazardous old mine shafts, climb the southern flank of the valley. The path crosses high ground past Trevegean Farm and skirts St Just’s airfield, where light aircraft land among the daisies. TAKE A LOOK AT OUR CORNWALL WALKS PAGE HERE Coast between Cape Cornwall and Sennen Continue south across Nanquidno Downs, following the hill crest past Gurland Farm toward Trevedra and Escalls Cliffs. Here, join the South West Coast Path as it descends steeply into Sennen Cove, opening up sweeping views over the white sands and the offshore reef of Cowloe. The Pub & Stay Anchor After negotiating the salt spray, collapse into The Old Success Inn right on the waterfront at Sennen Cove. It’s a 17th-century sea-facing alehouse serving fresh fish, local meats, and proper Cornish ales. If you're making a weekend of it, Sennen and St Just make ideal bases for exploring Penwith, with plenty of coastal cottages and guesthouses tucked along the cliffs. CHECK OUT OUR PUB WALKS IN CORNWALL PAGE 2. Treen, Pedn Vounder & Penberth Cove Circular "Tucked under the mighty cliffs lies Pedn Vounder—a hidden shore of gravelly golden sand, mysterious caves, and pearl-like shells glinting under dripping granite eaves." Fact File Distance & Going: 3.5 miles (excluding beach scramble) | Easy going; clear field paths, rocky coastal paths, and steep granite scrambles. Start & Parking: Treen Car Park (TR19 6LG), just off the B3283. Pub Pitstop: The Logan Rock Inn, Treen — an iconic 16th-century pub with open fires, local real ales, and exceptional pub grub. Very dog-friendly. The Route Narrative From the hamlet of Treen, pick up the ancient boulder-lined track opposite the public facilities and head straight toward the sea at Treen Cliff. A steep, rough scramble leads down to the hidden sands of Pedn Vounder—though reaching the beach requires a hands-on climb over the final 50 feet of granite (only attempt if you're nimble and have a head for heights!). Rejoining the main coastal path east, cross above Polpry Cove to the Iron Age promontory fort of Treryn Dinas. Climb out to the famous Logan Rock, a massive 80-ton granite boulder balanced on a natural pivot. Continue east along the clifftops before dropping into the idyllic, preserved fishing cove of Penberth. From the slipway, turn inland up the wooded valley, picking up the footpaths that head west across the hilltop fields back to Treen. The Pub & Stay Anchor Finish your trek steps away from The Logan Rock Inn in Treen. Named after the famous rocking stone down on the headland, this traditional inn is famous for its warm welcome, traditional Cornish roasts, and sunny beer garden. For an extended stay in West Penwith, Treen and nearby Porthcurno offer superb characterful holiday lets and traditional guesthouses right on the South West Coast Path. Landlady at The Logan Rock Inn, Treen 3. Porthcurno, Gwennap Head & Porthgwarra Circular "Gwennap Head is a quiet, untouristy sort of Land's End—every bit as dramatic as the real thing, but with an altogether more authentic air." Fact File Distance & Going: 7 miles | Fairly easy going with one or two steep coastal sections. Start & Parking: Main Porthcurno Car Park (TR19 6JX). Pub Pitstop: The Minack Theatre Café (for cliff-edge light bites and coffee) or the Apple Tree Café near St Levan. Looking down onto Porthcurno beach The Route Narrative Start at Porthcurno—once the heart of international telecommunications, where the world's first undersea telegraph cables entered the ocean. Climb the near-vertical crag path out of the bay toward the famous open-air Minack Theatre, carved directly into the cliffside. Follow the South West Coast Path west around the headland to Porthgwarra, a quintessential Cornish fishing cove featuring a slipway and hand-carved tunnels cut straight through the solid rock face. The coast heading west from Porthcurno Continue past the coastguard lookout at Gwennap Head, watching the heavy Atlantic swells surge over the offshore Runnel Stone buoy. The path loops north-west across springy downs toward the wild, cavernous bay at Nanjizal. Turn inland through the cauliflower fields past Higher Bosistow and Arden-Sawah Farm, following field paths past historic St Levan Church back to Porthcurno. The Pub & Stay Anchor End the walk with a slice of cake and a hot drink at the Minack Theatre Café, perched high above the ocean with floor-to-ceiling glass windows overlooking the bay. If you're planning to stay in the area, Porthcurno offers easy access to the coast path, local theatre, and fine beaches with a selection of cliffside apartments and farmhouse B&Bs. The Minack Theatre, Porthcurno, West Cornwall 4. Lamorna Cove, St Loy & The Merry Maidens Circular "There is something Du Maurier-esque or even Secret Seven about this stretch, as if the most natural thing in the world would be to stumble across a pirate or a clandestine meeting." Fact File Distance & Going: 6 miles | Moderate going; boulder-strewn coastal paths, wooded valley ascents, and flat country lanes/field paths. Start & Parking: Lamorna Cove Pay & Display Car Park (TR19 6XQ). Pub Pitstop: The Lamorna Wink — a legendary local pub full of maritime character, real ales, and classic pub fare. Lamorna Cove, West Cornwall The Route Narrative Setting off from the quiet granite harbor of Lamorna Cove, head west along the coastal path past Rosemodress Cliffs, Carn Barges, and Tater-du Lighthouse. The path here winds over dramatic headlands and rocky cove edges before reaching the wooded retreat of St Loy's Cove, where sub-tropical foliage grows right down to the boulder-strewn shore. Turn inland through the dense woods at St Loy, climbing up out of the valley to reach the B3315. Cross the fields via Boskenna towards the ancient standing stones of The Merry Maidens—one of the best-preserved Bronze Age stone circles in Britain, flanked by two towering monoliths known as The Pipers. The Merry Maidens From this prehistoric hilltop, follow the cool, leafy green lane leading back down the valley directly into Lamorna. The Pub & Stay Anchor Cap off the route with a stop at The Lamorna Wink, a pub steeped in local smuggling folklore (its name comes from the historical "wink" given to the landlord when asking for illicit spirits). Lamorna Valley has inspired artists and writers for over a century; it makes a tranquil base for exploring the South Coast with its hidden granite cottages and boutique inns near Mousehole. Rugged coast west of Lamorna Cove,

Madeira is capturing the imagination of UK travellers with its rich food culture and accessible travel opportunities. The island’s unique culinary landscape and affordable adventures make it an ideal destination for those seeking immersive experiences without overspending. This guide explores how to discover the best of Madeira while keeping your budget in mind. For many UK visitors, exploring Madeira means navigating a fascinating blend of traditional flavours and diverse landscapes. While the island is renowned for its lush gardens and rugged coastlines, the real draw lies in uncovering local cuisine and worthwhile stays that reflect the destination’s authentic spirit. With tools like the Madeira budget travel guide, finding memorable meals, unique sights, and practical travel tips becomes more manageable, allowing travellers to enjoy every layer of Madeira’s food and culture without straining their budgets. Discovering Madeira’s regional flavours on a budget Eating well in Madeira does not require lavish spending. Local markets, family-run restaurants, and food festivals offer some of the most enjoyable and authentic dishes on the island. Visitors can experience specialities like espetada—grilled beef skewers served with crusty bread—or sizzling black scabbard fish paired with fresh bananas. These meals often cost less when enjoyed away from tourist hotspots, where home-style cooking and generous plates are the norm. Tasting the island’s famous Madeira wine also fits within a modest travel budget, with tours and tastings available at cellars throughout Funchal. Sampling sweet pastries and local cheeses from bakery counters or street vendors provides genuine insight into Madeiran tastes and traditions. Every bite tells a story of the landscape, from volcanic soils nurturing vineyards to mountain farms supplying daily markets. Affordable ways to experience Madeira’s landscapes Madeira’s dramatic scenery, its levada walks, sea cliffs, and green valleys, can be enjoyed by visitors of all means. Many hiking trails are free to explore and reveal the peaceful side of the island, away from busy resorts. Catching a local bus to reach these routes keeps costs low, and joining informal group walks can add social value without high fees. Public transport also makes it simple to reach small fishing villages and mountain towns, each with its own charm and flavours. Exploring botanical gardens, public parks, and beaches offers rich experiences for little or no expense. Bringing a packed lunch from a local bakery, rather than dining in, can be a simple way to enjoy scenic views without added costs. Savvy planning for accommodation, tours, and unique finds Finding budget accommodation in Madeira is achievable with a mix of early research and local recommendations. Guesthouses and hostels in quieter neighbourhoods often present better value than large hotels, especially if you’re willing to share facilities or stay a short distance from the centre. Self-catering apartments with small kitchens make it possible to shop at local markets and prepare meals economically. Searching for deals on group tours or focus days, such as food tastings or cultural excursions, can further stretch your budget. Resources like Flight Tribe highlight up-to-date travel tips, deals, and advice. Shopping for regional crafts in municipal markets or cooperatives supports the community while offering visitors authentic souvenirs at sensible prices. Approaching Madeira with curiosity and an open mind places its food and travel scene within reach, no matter your budget. Each thoughtful choice adds to a rewarding adventure, connecting you with the best the island has to offer at a pace and cost that suits the careful explorer. Travelling during shoulder seasons—late autumn or early spring—typically yields lower accommodation rates and fewer crowds, while still offering pleasant weather for outdoor activities and sightseeing. Booking directly with smaller properties rather than through third-party platforms sometimes unlocks discounts or complimentary upgrades, as owners appreciate the reduced commission costs. Joining free walking tours in Funchal provides historical context and neighbourhood orientation, with the option to tip guides based on your budget and satisfaction. Local tourism cards offering bundled discounts on attractions, museums, and public transport can deliver substantial savings for visitors planning to explore multiple sites over several days, making careful itinerary planning financially rewarding. Connecting with local communities through homestays or agricultural tourism programmes presents affordable alternatives to conventional lodging while enriching cultural understanding. Some rural properties offer work-exchange opportunities where guests contribute a few hours daily to farming or hospitality tasks in return for free accommodation and meals, ideal for extended stays on tight budgets. Renting bicycles or scooters for multiple days often proves more economical than repeated taxi journeys or car hire, particularly for exploring Funchal's surroundings and coastal villages at your own pace. Attending free cultural events—concerts in public squares, art exhibitions in municipal galleries, or traditional folk performances during local festivals—adds depth to your visit without ticket costs. Purchasing picnic supplies from neighbourhood grocers rather than tourist-oriented shops can halve food expenses, while discovering family bakeries and fishmongers reveals the daily rhythms of Madeiran life that casual visitors often miss.

South Hams Coastal Walking The West Country weather is unpredictable, but South Hams in Devon is known for its sunshine and excellent coastal walking opportunities. This article describes a stunning coastal walk from Outer Hope to Soar Mill Cove, passing through Bolt Tail and North Bolberry. Starting the Walk from Outer Hope towards Soar Mill Cove A few miles west of Salcombe, visitors can begin their South Hams coastal walk from Outer Hope towards Soar Mill Cove. The trail passes through Inner and Outer Hope and offers sweeping views of the south coast. 🏨 Stay in the Beautiful South Hams If this walk leaves you wanting to explore more of South Devon, why not stay for a few days? Browse hotels, cosy inns, holiday cottages and seaside apartments around Hope Cove, Salcombe and the South Hams using my interactive accommodation map. Sweeping Coastal Views at Bolt Tail Walk at a Glance 📍 Start: Outer Hope, South Hams 🥾 Route: Outer Hope – Bolt Tail – Soar Mill Cove 📏 Distance: Approximately 4–6 miles (depending on route) ⏱ Time: 2½–4 hours ⬆ Difficulty: Moderate 🚗 Parking: Outer Hope village 🐶 Dog friendly: Yes 📸 Highlights: Bolt Tail, Soar Mill Cove, dramatic cliffs, wildflowers and panoramic sea views One of the highlights of the South Hams coastal walk is Bolt Tail, which provides an exceptional panorama of the Bigbury Bay and beyond. Visitors can explore the area's history, including the Ramillies Rock named after a shipwreck. The National Trust's Accessible Coastal Path The National Trust has made the South Hams coastal path accessible to all by installing a wheelchair-friendly path. The path leads to Soar Mill Cove, where visitors can relax on the fine sands and explore the picturesque cove. National Trust South Devon - https://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/south-devon-coast Exploring the South Hams with Coast & Country Cottages To make the most of the South Hams area, visitors can book with Coast & Country Cottages, which offers over 400 self-catering holiday properties to suit all budgets and tastes. The area is also known for its fresh seafood, which can be purchased from local fisherman Chris Roberts in Salcombe. Coast & Country Cottages - https://www.coastandcountry.co.uk/ Catching the Ferry to South Sands For those looking for a relaxing day out, catching the ferry from the town centre to South Sands is a must. The sandy beach at the mouth of the 'ria' or estuary is shallow, and the operators use a motorised landing stage that heads out into the bay to meet the ferry. South Sands Ferry - https://www.southsandsferry.co.uk/ Conclusion The South Hams coastal walk from Outer Hope to Soar Mill Cove is a must-visit trail for any walking enthusiast. It offers stunning views, accessible paths, and a chance to explore the area's hidden gems. Visitors can also book their stay with Coast & Country Cottages and try the local fresh seafood, making for a perfect holiday in South Hams. Finn the lurcher at Soar Mill Cove Why This Is One of My Favourite Walks in This Corner of South Devon Some walks impress with a single dramatic viewpoint. Others are memorable because they lead to a famous landmark. This one quietly unfolds, revealing its pleasures a little at a time, and that's one of the reasons I return whenever I'm in the South Hams. It begins gently enough in the peaceful surroundings of Outer Hope, where whitewashed cottages huddle against the sea and the pace of life seems refreshingly unhurried. Before long, however, the South West Coast Path begins to climb and the views start to widen. Suddenly you're looking across an endless sweep of coastline, with the sea changing colour almost by the minute as clouds drift overhead. Bolt Tail is the point where I invariably stop, not because I'm tired but because it seems almost impossible to walk past without pausing. The cliffs fall dramatically into the sea, the breeze carries the cries of gulls and, on a clear day, the views stretch for miles across Bigbury Bay. You feel as though you're standing on the very edge of Devon. Then comes the reward of Soar Mill Cove. Tucked away beneath the cliffs, it has the delicious feeling of being discovered rather than visited. Even on warm summer days it often feels quieter than many of the county's better-known beaches, making it an ideal place to sit, unpack a picnic and simply listen to the waves washing over the sand and rocks. What I enjoy most about this walk, though, is its sense of space. There are no amusement arcades, souvenir shops or noisy attractions competing for your attention. Instead, there are skylarks overhead, wildflowers underfoot, the scent of salt on the breeze and the ever-changing moods of the sea. It's the sort of landscape that reminds you how fortunate we are to have the South West Coast Path on our doorstep. I've walked many miles of the Devon coastline over the years, and there are grander cliffs and longer hikes elsewhere. Yet whenever anyone asks me to recommend a walk that captures the true spirit of the South Hams, this is always near the top of my list. It's a route that rewards every season, every tide and every return visit—and one that leaves me looking forward to the next time I lace up my boots. Frequently Asked Questions About the Outer Hope to Soar Mill Cove Walk Where is the Outer Hope to Soar Mill Cove walk? This beautiful coastal walk begins in the village of Outer Hope, part of Hope Cove in the South Hams of South Devon. The route follows the spectacular South West Coast Path to Bolt Tail and the secluded Soar Mill Cove, offering some of the finest sea views in Devon. How long is the Outer Hope to Soar Mill Cove walk? The walk is approximately 4 to 6 miles (6.5 to 9.5 km), depending on the exact route you choose. Most walkers allow between 2½ and 4 hours, with extra time for photography, wildlife watching and picnics. Is the walk difficult? The route is graded moderate. There are several steep climbs and descents, typical of the South West Coast Path, but reasonably fit walkers will find the effort richly rewarded by the spectacular scenery. Is Soar Mill Cove worth visiting? Definitely. Soar Mill Cove is one of South Devon's hidden treasures, with golden sand, crystal-clear water and dramatic cliffs. It's a peaceful spot for swimming, exploring rock pools or simply relaxing away from the crowds. What is Bolt Tail? Bolt Tail is a striking headland on the South Hams coast, offering breathtaking panoramic views across Bigbury Bay, Burgh Island and the English Channel. It is one of the highlights of this stretch of the South West Coast Path. Is there parking at Outer Hope? Yes. Public parking is available in and around Hope Cove, with easy access to the coastal path. Parking can become busy during the summer holidays, so arriving early is recommended. Can I take my dog on this walk? Yes. Dogs are welcome on this section of the South West Coast Path. However, they should be kept under close control near cliff edges, nesting birds and grazing livestock. When is the best time to walk from Outer Hope to Soar Mill Cove? Spring and early summer are particularly beautiful, with colourful wildflowers carpeting the cliff tops. Autumn offers quieter paths and wonderfully clear views, while the walk is enjoyable throughout the year in suitable weather. What wildlife might I see on the walk? Keep an eye out for seabirds, kestrels, peregrine falcons and, if you're lucky, dolphins or seals offshore. In spring and summer the coastal grasslands are alive with butterflies and wildflowers. Can I extend the walk beyond Soar Mill Cove? Yes. The South West Coast Path continues towards Salcombe in one direction and Bigbury Bay in the other, making it easy to create a longer circular or linear walk if you have the time and energy. Is this one of the best coastal walks in South Devon? Many walkers think so. Combining dramatic cliffs, hidden coves, panoramic sea views and peaceful countryside, the Outer Hope to Soar Mill Cove route showcases everything that makes the South Hams one of England's finest coastal landscapes. 🏨 Stay in the Beautiful South Hams If this walk leaves you wanting to explore more of South Devon, why not stay for a few days? Browse hotels, cosy inns, holiday cottages and seaside apartments around Hope Cove, Salcombe and the South Hams using my interactive accommodation map.

Few of us ever put the places we visit into categories, but if we did they’d probably come under headings covering the locations we have to visit, like local supermarkets, shops, dentists, hospitals, whatever, and destinations we really like visiting, such as favourite holiday spots, theatres, cinemas, hiking locations etc. There’d be another category for me entitled, “Places I cannot resist visiting when I’m on my way somewhere else”. The Irresistible Charm of Appledore, Devon Appledore is one such place. Rarely have I driven the 53 miles from my home especially to visit Appledore, and Appledore alone - but I have lost count of the times when I’ve been exploring elsewhere in Devon or North Cornwall, and been tempted to leave the A39 at the Northam-Bideford roundabout to drive the two miles to this charming estuarine harbour village. 🏨 Stay in Beautiful Appledore With its colourful waterfront, historic pubs and easy access to North Devon's beaches and coastal walks, Appledore makes a wonderful base for exploring the region. Browse hotels, guest houses, holiday cottages and waterside apartments using my interactive accommodation map. Appledore: A Village, Not a Town Did I say “town”? Sorry. Back in 2002 when I did visit Appledore specifically to write an entire newspaper feature about the place, I was told in no uncertain terms that it is not a town, but a village. Which surprised me because not only is Appledore quite a large place to have such a diminutive label, it seems to get bigger as you stroll around its many streets and alleys. Discovering the Hidden Depths of Irsha Street Last week I was once again amazed by Appledore’s Dr Who police box ability to seem much larger than you’d suspect. I was walking along Irsha Street, which I had assumed from sailing past the port several times aboard the MS Oldenburg, was just a shortish thoroughfare that led nowhere. It turns out that, as humble byways go, Irsha Street is a lovely lane that stretches for an impressive half-mile before giving way to the sea. Maritime History and Coastal Pubs: The Spirit of Irsha Street A salty alley that boasts, not one, but two public houses (The Beaver Inn and The Royal George) and more maritime history in its little finger than most streets can shake a spinnaker at. A Stroll Through Appledore’s Historic Streets I was driving back from North Cornwall when I promised some friends that we’d break the journey with a stroll around Appledore. We parked on the waterfront and began our visit with a walk down tiny Market Street and some of its offshoot byways such as Bude Street, at the top of which stands the magnificent Appledore Maritime Museum. Local Flavours: From Sylvester’s Fish and Chips to John’s Deli I can also recall an Apple Tree Mews, Gibbs Lane, a One End Street, and a Meeting Street. The latter plays host to a tiny but excellent chippie, called Sylvester’s Fish and Chips. I was in the mood for a piece of hot fried fish and while the guy cooked it fresh, he told me about his collection of cars - Fiat 500s, Citroen 2CVs, and the like while also giving me the background to one of the strangest shop windows I’ve seen in a long while, full of mannikins and weird objets d’art. SEE OTHER PLACES OF INTEREST IN DEVON BY CLICKING HERE A Glimpse into Appledore’s Quirky Charm and Property Market It was a great piece of fish - but if I hadn’t had a burning desire for it, I would definitely have lunched at John’s Deli on the main harbour-side road, which was once named the best delicatessen in the UK, and probably still is. Looking up the prices of the one or two small waterside homes for sale, I also began to realise that this quaint and salty area has become highly fashionable - £half-a-million for a one-reception two-bedroom home anyone? The Allure of Appledore’s Estuary Views Not surprising, I guess, given its proximity to one of the most impressive estuary systems in the South West. Even back in the 19th century, a well-known gazetteer saw fit to describe the place as thus: “Appledore has long been the resort of the neighbouring gentry, when they wish to inhale its breezes and bathe in its pellucid waters. The sea views are remarkably fine, and the walks and rides in the vicinity of the town partake of all that romantic scenery for which the northern coast of Devon has ever been so much admired.” A Glimpse into Appledore’s Maritime Past Irsha Street was once a very different place, filled with boatbuilders who made some of the finest wooden sailing vessels to be found anywhere around the shores of the Atlantic. I recall being told that Appledore used to be one of the country’s biggest tobacco-importing ports—a curious claim and one I’d like to know more about. Windswept Beauty: Walking Around The Stern and Northam Burrows Puffing on nothing but the Atlantic breeze, we continued our walk around an estuarine bay known as The Stern, and out onto wonderful, windswept Northam Burrows. Why I Always Find Time for Appledore There are places you plan to visit and places that somehow keep calling you back. Appledore falls firmly into the second category. I've lost count of the number of times I've been driving through North Devon with every intention of pressing on towards Westward Ho!, Clovelly or Hartland, only to find myself turning off for "just half an hour." Half an hour, of course, is never enough. There's something about Appledore that encourages you to slow your pace. Perhaps it's the maze of narrow lanes, where every corner reveals another whitewashed cottage, a brightly painted front door or a glimpse of the estuary sparkling between the houses. Perhaps it's the smell of salt carried in on the tide, mingling with fresh coffee and fish and chips from the quayside. Or perhaps it's simply the knowledge that this is a village which has never forgotten its seafaring roots. I enjoy wandering without any particular destination, peering into tiny galleries, browsing independent shops and stopping to watch the ebb and flow of life on the waterfront. The tides transform the whole scene from hour to hour, giving photographers endless opportunities and ensuring no two visits ever feel quite the same. In an age when so many seaside resorts compete for attention with ever bigger attractions, Appledore's greatest strength is that it doesn't seem to try very hard at all. It remains wonderfully authentic, quietly confident in its history and character. For me, that's precisely its charm—and the reason I suspect I'll keep making those "unexpected" detours for many years to come. Frequently Asked Questions About Visiting Appledore, North Devon Where is Appledore? Appledore is a historic fishing village in North Devon, situated where the Rivers Taw and Torridge meet before flowing into Bideford Bay. It lies just a few miles from Bideford, Instow and the seaside resort of Westward Ho!, making it an ideal base for exploring the North Devon coast. Is Appledore worth visiting? Absolutely. Appledore is one of North Devon's most charming villages, with colourful cottages, narrow lanes, a bustling quay, fascinating maritime history and beautiful estuary views. It's perfect for a leisurely stroll, a seafood lunch or simply soaking up its timeless atmosphere. What is Appledore famous for? Appledore has been an important fishing and shipbuilding centre for centuries. Today it is renowned for its picturesque waterfront, independent galleries, welcoming cafés, traditional pubs and the excellent North Devon Maritime Museum. What are the best things to do in Appledore? Visitors can wander the narrow streets, explore Irsha Street, browse independent shops and galleries, visit the Maritime Museum, enjoy fresh seafood on the quay, walk along the estuary or take a seasonal ferry across to Instow. Is there parking in Appledore? Yes. Several public car parks serve the village, including parking close to the quayside. During the summer holidays and on sunny weekends they can become busy, so arriving early is a good idea. Can you walk from Appledore to Northam Burrows? Yes. One of the area's most enjoyable walks follows the estuary towards Northam Burrows Country Park, offering magnificent views across the Taw and Torridge Estuary towards Instow and Bideford Bay. Is there a ferry between Appledore and Instow? Yes. A seasonal passenger ferry usually operates between Appledore and Instow, providing a delightful way to explore both villages. It is advisable to check operating times before travelling, as services are weather and tide dependent. Is Appledore dog friendly? Yes. Dogs are welcome throughout much of the village and on many nearby walking routes. Several cafés and pubs also welcome well-behaved dogs, making Appledore a popular destination for visitors travelling with pets. When is the best time to visit Appledore? Appledore is delightful throughout the year, but late spring, summer and early autumn offer the best weather for exploring the waterfront, walking the estuary and enjoying outdoor cafés. High tide brings the harbour to life, while sunsets over the estuary can be particularly memorable. Why should I visit Appledore instead of busier Devon resorts? Unlike some of Devon's larger seaside towns, Appledore has retained its authentic fishing village character. Its peaceful atmosphere, maritime heritage, colourful cottages and welcoming community make it one of North Devon's true hidden gems.

What Is a Psammosere and Why Braunton Burrows Matters Do you know what a psammosere is? No, neither did I. What I now know is that the word psammosere is used to describe a sand dune system – and that Braunton Burrows the largest psammosere in England. If you haven’t ever been there, please go. Braunton Burrows is truly magnificent – and it boasts its own Secret Seaside. Saunton Sands: The Famous Face of North Devon’s Dunes Of course, everyone knows Saunton Sands which run so broadly and majestically down the north-south seaward side of the massive dune system. It’s one of the biggest, most outstanding, sandy beaches in South West England. I even have a photographer pal who took pictures of a Hercules transport aircraft landing on Saunton Sands - so no such beach could ever be described as secret. SEE MORE FASCINATING DEVON WALKS AND PLACES HERE Introducing Crow Beach: North Devon’s Hidden Curve of Glory However, Crow Beach could. It’s just around the corner, tucked behind the point that gives it a name – and you will rarely see many people clogging up its mystical sandy acres. At least, not in comparison with the busy upper end of Saunton Sands, or neighbouring Croyde - or any of the other big North Devon beaches, come to that. Crow Beach - or Broad Sands, to give it another name – is by no means the loneliest or least visited seaside in this series, but it is far from well known – as I was able to prove when I quizzed my learned brother on the subject. Hidden Waterscapes: Velator Creek, Horsey Island and the River Caen “Do you know Velator Creek?” I asked him. “Or how about Horsey Island or the River Caen?” My maritime loving brother John knows more about the West Country littoral than anyone else I can think of, and yet he drew a blank on my little Taw-side listing. For that is where you’ll find all these places: at the mouth of the River Taw, on its northern shore just before it rounds Crow Point to join its sister, the River Torridge, at the place where the two say goodbye to land and make for the ocean. It’s their collective activity down the centuries – their dual fight with the sea – which has caused the massive psammosere known as Braunton Burrows. Ecology and Rarity: Braunton Burrows in Detail Here’s what the official blurb has to say about the place: “It is particularly important ecologically because it includes the complete successional range of dune plant communities, with over 400 vascular plant species. The short turf communities are very rich in lichens and herbs, and the dune slacks are also rich. The many rare plants and animals include 14 with UK biodiversity action plans. For example, this is one of only two sites in the UK for the amber sandbowl snail Catinella arenaria.” The official website also states: “The site is currently leased by the Ministry of Defence from the Christie Devon Estates Trust. It is also used, particularly by local people, for a range of leisure activities, particularly dog-walking, from three large car parks adjacent to the site. There is a long tradition of scientific research, particularly botanical.” Fish and Chips and Forgotten Quays: My Route to the Secret So, how did I find myself down on Crow Beach at the very southern edge of the dune system the other day after that long meeting? The reason was that - deprived of light and half starving - I repaired to Squires fish and chip emporium in Braunton, which I believe to be the best in the region. Having bought my cod and mushy peas I was looking for somewhere al-fresco in which to enjoy them when I stumbled upon Velator Quay – a shrine of hulks and hulls. The quay is located just to the south of Braunton at a point where the River Caen turns tidal. For those of you who haven’t heard of this North Devon waterway, it rises in the hills which separate Barnstaple and Ilfracombe and runs just a few short miles to the south. The Industrial Past of Velator Quay The quay has that wonderful forgotten air I love – but forgotten airs only come about because such places were once at the hub of things. Research Velator Quay and you will learn all manner of details about grand canal schemes and the like, which came about when the whole surrounding area of erstwhile saltings and marshes was being reclaimed. The quay at Velator was opened in 1870 and - amazingly given the slightly neglected scene today – visited by ships of up to 130 tons in size. These large boats continued to call in regularly right up to the 1960s. Walking the Dyke: Towards Crow Point The reclaimed meadowlands hereabouts are guarded by massive dykes, and it was this extensive system of raised embankments which provided me with a post cod-and-mushy-peas stroll. From the quay you can follow the South West Coast Path downstream – it adheres to the top of the embankment and passes the Toll House which is on the little private road that leads down to Crow Point. This was my destination, but to get there it’s best to take the right hand path at the Y-shaped junction just south of the toll point so that you can walk around the coast of Horsey Island. This is a great wedged-shaped area of salt meadow land that guards the western side of the Caen’s estuary – or, rather, the place where it flows into the main Taw Estuary. After Pill’s Mouth the path veers south west and heads direct for the point where you will be able to see the great dunes of the Burrows descend to their southernmost point. Crow Beach and the Mystery of the Wreck Crow Beach is the sickle-shaped bay that stretches between you and the end of the dunes – and a very handsome little curve of glory it is too… I’ve been there twice in the past two years and not seen another soul, save for one or two dog-walkers way back in the dunes. Admittedly, when I went this week the school holidays had just broken up – I have the distinct feeling this soft-sand beach can get pretty full at times. One of the things I particularly like about Crow Beach is that it plays host to one of the loveliest wooden hulks I’ve seen anywhere. The big red wooden hull lies careened in the sand and you can’t help but wonder what wondrous vessel this once was. Why We Should Celebrate Rust, Wrecks and River Mouths Old boats – some lived in, some rotting – marine projects in the making, the hopeless results of grown men’s boyish dreams, the tangible testimonies of mankind’s love for the sea, timber hints of past summers, plastic optimism for races that will never be sailed, modest dinghies lying derelict and, best of all, massive hulks that once ruled the ocean wave. Why do I like ruined boats cluttering beaches and hidden creeks that nine out of 10 councillors would like to see “tidied up”? Because, in my opinion, they hold more character and charm in one muddy oozing acre than many of our finest bits of countryside do in whole square miles. Creeks, estuarine nooks and crannies, forgotten river mouths, secret seasides – call them what you will – all are salty romantic jewels in the crown of the Westcountry peninsula. And if I am in a minority when it comes to loving them, then so be it. To hell with the tidy-uppers, may the lovers of the clinically empty “nice and pretty” type landscapes sink to the gunnels, down with the detesters of rusting corrugated iron. Wrecks rule, OK? To which all my friends say in chorus: “You would say that – you are the living embodiment of the Wreck of the Hesperus.” One Last Glimpse Around the Headland But never mind. Let’s stick our heads around the sandy tip of Crow Point. We might as well now we’re here – and it’s quite a surprise because the scene changes completely. We were now on the banks of the combined Taw and Torridge Estuaries at a place where you get fantastic views of Appledore. I walked back through the dunes to sit on the old wreck – and did so with feelings of vague annoyance. You see, I wrote about the wooden hulled hulk before once and someone kindly sent me a letter explaining which vessel she was and why she’d ended up deep in the sands of this beautiful beach. I have lost that letter. And maybe, just maybe, that is just as well. The romance of wrecks is all about their mystery. Where have they been? Who sailed in her and why? Sometimes when you learn – for example - that something was nothing but a coal-smack plying between Barnstaple and Swansea, the romance disappears. Which is a bit like secret seasides – you don’t really want to know too much about them. You just need to know they exist and that sometime – some distant happy time – you might get to visit them. Perhaps in an hour of need, like when you’ve been locked in a meeting all one bright sunny morning. Frequently Asked Questions about Crow Point Beach Where is Crow Point Beach? Crow Point lies on the western side of the Taw Estuary near Braunton in North Devon, opposite Instow and close to Braunton Burrows. Can you swim at Crow Point? Swimming is possible but visitors should take great care because of strong estuary currents and changing tides. Is Crow Point dog friendly? Yes. It is popular with walkers and dog owners, although visitors should always check any seasonal restrictions. Is Crow Point busy? No. Even in summer it is usually far quieter than nearby Saunton Sands or Croyde. Can you walk from Braunton Burrows to Crow Point? Yes. One of the joys of visiting is combining the beach with walks through the remarkable dune system of Braunton Burrows. Why is Crow Point special? Its huge skies, expansive sands, estuary wildlife and peaceful atmosphere make it one of North Devon's most overlooked coastal locations.

Looking to explore the stunning coastal landscape of Brixham? Look no further than Berry Head Country Park! With its rich history and abundance of flora and fauna, this headland is a must-see for any nature lover. And with fresh fish available from David Walker & Sons, it's the perfect excuse to visit trawler-town. Torbay Coast and Countryside Trust: https://www.countryside-trust.org.uk/ Here's a suggested itinerary for a walk that takes you from Brixham Harbour to Berry Head Country Park: Berry Head National Nature Reserve: https://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/berry-head Heading East from Brixham Harbour Begin your hike at Brixham Harbour, and make your way to the breakwater. From there, cross over to Breakwater Beach, and follow the concrete path up to Berry Head Road. Turn left onto Berry Head Road and follow it until you reach the path that leads down to Shoalstone Point. 🏨 Stay Close to the South West Coast Path Thinking of exploring more of the English Riviera? Brixham makes an excellent base for discovering Berry Head, Sharkham Point and some of Devon's finest coastal walks. Browse hotels, guest houses, holiday cottages and apartments using my interactive accommodation map. Visit Brixham: https://www.visitbrixham.com/ Exploring Berry Head Country Park Once you've reached Shoalstone Point, follow the path that leads through delightful coastal woodlands and into Berry Head Country Park, which is run by the Torbay Countryside Service. Here, you'll find an informative visitor centre and a series of cheap and informative leaflets that will help you learn all about this extraordinary landscape. As you make your way through the park, you'll come across the massive hole left by the quarrymen who once nibbled away at Berry Head. You'll also see the impressive ramparts of the Northern Fort, which were put up to guard against a land-attack in the Napoleonic Wars. And if you hike out to the end of the headland, you'll be rewarded with stunning views and a visit to the lighthouse. From Berry Head to St. Mary's Bay and Sharkham Point After you've finished exploring Berry Head Country Park, follow the South West Coast Path down to St. Mary's Bay, where you can take a quick dip before continuing on to Sharkham Point. From there, you can cut up across the fields to Yards Lane, which will take you to Higher Brixham. End your hike at David Walker & Sons Before you head back to Brixham Harbour, stop by David Walker & Sons to pick up some of the best fresh fish in the South West region. And if you're looking for a place to stay, consider the Quayside Hotel, which offers comfortable accommodations and stunning views of the harbour. Fact File Basic hike: from Brixham out to Berry Head Country Park. Recommended Map: Ordnance Survey Outdoor Leisure 20 - South Devon. Distance & Going: Two-and-a-half to five miles depending on whether you extend hike to Sharkham Point - easy going. MARTIN'S MUSTS Should go to Shoals: Enjoy dinner at Shoals on the Lido restaurant located in the old cafe building above the sea-pool (mentioned in this walk). Walk to Walkers: Pick up fresh fish from David Walker & Sons. Keep it at The Quayside: Stay at the Quayside Hotel for comfortable accommodations and stunning views of the harbour. South West Coast Path: https://www.southwestcoastpath.org.uk/ Torbay Council - Berry Head Country Park: https://www.torbay.gov.uk/leisure-sports-and-community/parks-and-open-spaces/country-parks/berry-head-country-park/ Tripadvisor - Berry Head Country Park: https://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Attraction_Review-g190416-d1460224-Reviews-Berry_Head_Country_Park-Brixham_English_Riviera_Devon_England.html Martin's Five Highlights of the Walk Something like: Watching the fishing boats leave Brixham Harbour. Looking down on the crystal-clear waters at Shoalstone. Exploring the Napoleonic fortifications at Berry Head. Listening to the clamour of nesting seabirds on the cliffs. Buying fresh fish for supper before heading home. Frequently Asked Questions How long is the walk from Brixham to Berry Head? The walk from Brixham Harbour to Berry Head is around 2½ miles one way. If you continue to Sharkham Point and return via Higher Brixham, the walk becomes a rewarding circular route of around 5–6 miles. Is the Brixham to Berry Head walk difficult? No. Most walkers of average fitness will find it easy to moderate. There are some gentle climbs, uneven paths and steps, but the spectacular coastal scenery makes every effort worthwhile. Is Berry Head worth visiting? Absolutely. Berry Head is one of England's National Nature Reserves, famous for its dramatic limestone cliffs, Napoleonic forts, seabird colonies and panoramic views across Tor Bay. Can you see wildlife at Berry Head? Yes. Berry Head is one of Devon's best wildlife-watching locations. Depending on the season you may spot guillemots, razorbills, peregrine falcons, dolphins, porpoises and a wide variety of coastal wildflowers. Where can I park for the walk? Parking is available in Brixham town centre and at Berry Head car park. Starting from Brixham allows you to enjoy the full coastal walk. Is the walk suitable for dogs? Yes, although dogs should be kept under close control near cliff edges, wildlife habitats and grazing livestock. Can I visit Berry Head without doing the whole walk? Yes. You can drive directly to Berry Head car park and enjoy shorter circular walks around the headland, visitor centre and historic fortifications. What is the best time of year for this walk? Spring and early summer bring colourful wildflowers and nesting seabirds, while autumn often offers excellent visibility and opportunities to spot migrating birds and marine wildlife.

The Enchanting Appeal of Ness Cove, Shaldon Discover One of Devon’s Best-Kept Beach Secrets A great many secret seasides are difficult if not dangerous to reach - which is probably why they remain unknown and out of the way - but here we visit a beach that is often visited and which has, for a century or more, been celebrated among local folk and holiday-makers alike. Having said that, the Ness Cove, near Shaldon, has all the hallmarks necessary to make it a secret seaside... 📍 Find the Perfect Place to Stay Near Ness Cove Planning more than just a day trip? Explore hotels, cosy B&Bs, seaside cottages and holiday apartments around Shaldon, Teignmouth and the beautiful South Devon coast using my interactive accommodation map. Reached Only by Tunnel: The Magic of the Smugglers’ Way For a start, if you haven’t got a boat you can only reach it by a genuine smugglers’ tunnel - which, to me, puts any beach well inside the romantic hush-hush zone. When you are a child there is a world of difference between, say, being introduced to a beach that lies under a resort’s promenade or beyond a car park, and a small exciting bit of littoral that you must enter the bowels of the earth in order to reach. As far as I can make out, no one really knows who had the lengthy tunnel dug through the soft red sandstone of Shaldon’s enigmatic Ness headland. All the tourist literature I’ve seen claims it was burrowed by local smugglers, which seems reasonable as half the coves in these parts seem to have some kind of connection to the art of illegal importing. Smugglers’ Lore and Coastal Dangers: A Word of Warning Indeed, the next cove south is actually called Smuggler’s Cove – and you can reach if you don’t mind risking the dangerous rocks of Bundle Head. I heartily recommend that you do not. I walked the length of Ness Cove to see if it was worth rounding the boulder-strewn headland on the one fine day this week and realised it was a hazardous thing to do. I’ll tell you why… The cliffs around here – as you will see from my photographs – are made of soft red-sandstone. And that is basically compacted sand. Would you be happy to stand directly underneath the vertical wall of a giant sandcastle? I ask the question – and perhaps labour the point – because you will find similar cliffs along the coastal length of East Devon and West Dorset. You will also see warning signs in many places telling you not to lurk directly under the cliffs. So what did I see in Ness Cove? Several couples sunbathing with their backs actually resting on the base of the 120 foot cliffs. Each was surrounded by large boulders, any one of which could have squashed a Sherman tank. There have been tragedies along this sandstone coast. I’m not saying the people who were hurt or killed were crazy not to have taken heed of the signs - but I do wonder why people, like the sunbathers I saw, ignore such an obvious peril. WHY NOT CHECK OUT SOME DEVON PUB WALKS HERE IF YOU ENJOY THIS POST CHECK OUT OTHER DEVON LOCATIONS HERE A Beach You Can’t See – Unless You’re at Sea Anyway, the other thing that gives Ness Cove its sense of clandestine privacy is that you can’t see it from anywhere but the sea. Stand on busy neighbouring Teignmouth strand or even on its jutting pier - just across the estuary - and you will see the mighty headland all right (it dominates everything along this shoreline), but it completely hides the magical beach that lies beyond. To reach Ness Cove from Teignmouth you must catch the foot-ferry across the Teign, which in itself is a romantic thing to do because the open boat has an old-world charm all of its own. And when I say old world charm, I mean it is billed as “England’s Oldest Passenger Ferry”. Here’s what the service’s own website states: “The ferry crossing can be traced back to 1296, but is probably much older with origins in Saxon times. It has always been an important link and (in those days) saved a 14 mile journey to Shaldon and beyond, via Newton Abbot.” Exploring Shaldon and Finding the Tunnel Once you are across the mouth of the river and have landed at classy little Shaldon, turn left and simply walk along the shore-side lane for a few hundred metres – and just after the elegant looking restaurant on the left you will see a sign to the Ness Tunnel. Just above it, by the way, there is a small and remarkable zoo run by the Shaldon Wildlife Trust, which “prides itself on the number of rare and critically endangered species which have bred on the site over the years”… These animals include golden lion tamarins; yellow-breasted capuchins; ruffed, ring-tailed and fat-tailed dwarf lemurs; Madagascan giant jumping rats; pied tamarins; azara’s agoutis and others. I wanted to get that list in – because in no way, when I devised a series on the Westcountry’s secret beaches, did I ever imagine writing the names of any such creatures. Into the Tunnel – and Out to Sea Air Under the exotic beasts we go, down the tunnel – which is lit and at first appears to be rough hewn. But after about 70 metres you come to a steel door which blocks off the route straight in front and forces you to veer right and descend down a more modern looking section of the tunnel instead. A companion who came with me commented: “You could almost be walking down to a London tube line.” And you could, with one big difference. There’s no stale air here or roaring and jangling of trains – only fresh ozone smells that are wafted up the tunnel by the waves you can hear crashing at the far end. Down some steps we go - and suddenly, here we are… Out into the dazzling daylight of a well known cove that is actually one of the most easily accessible secret seasides in the region. A Beach You Can Book for Barbecues If you are looking for more superlatives, how about this? Ness Cove is the only beach I know that can be booked hook, line and sinker for private barbecues. Teignbridge Council have an online booking form that decrees: “Portable barbecues are permitted. No fires to be lit. No bands, discos or loud music. No more than 50 people. Rubbish/debris must be removed from the beach and taken away immediately following the authorised use. Barbecues/parties must finish no later than midnight.” How civilised is that? At all the other secret seasides which have appeared in this series, no one would know if you partied on until dawn or not. But Ness Cove is a special place, and it deserves some respect and tender loving care. Just don’t sit too close to its soft and crumbling cliffs. In an age when almost every corner of Britain's coastline has been photographed, reviewed and geo-tagged, Ness Cove still retains the thrill of discovery. Perhaps it is the walk through the tunnel, perhaps it is the red cliffs closing protectively around the beach, or perhaps it is simply the sense that you have stumbled upon a place that keeps one foot in the past. Whatever the reason, this little cove remains one of Devon's most memorable seaside escapes—and one that deserves to be explored with curiosity, respect and just a touch of the old smuggler's spirit. Staying in Shaldon? Whether you're looking for a harbour-view hotel, a family holiday cottage or a cosy bed and breakfast, this interactive map makes it easy to compare accommodation close to Ness Cove. The tunnel you can walk down to reach Ness Cove, Shaldon Frequently Asked Questions Where is Ness Cove? Ness Cove is a secluded beach in the village of Shaldon on the South Devon coast, close to Teignmouth and the mouth of the River Teign. It is one of Devon's best-hidden coastal gems and is easily reached from Exeter, Torbay and the English Riviera. How do you get to Ness Cove? Visitors reach Ness Cove by walking through the famous Smugglers' Tunnel from Shaldon. After passing through the tunnel, a flight of steps leads down to the sheltered beach below. Is there parking near Ness Cove? Yes. There are public car parks in Shaldon village, from where it is a pleasant walk to the entrance of the Smugglers' Tunnel. During the summer months it is worth arriving early, as parking can fill up quickly. Why is the tunnel called the Smugglers' Tunnel? The atmospheric tunnel has long been associated with local smuggling legends. While its exact origins remain uncertain, it has become one of Shaldon's most famous landmarks and adds a real sense of mystery to the walk down to Ness Cove. Can you swim at Ness Cove? Yes, swimming is popular during calm weather, but there are no lifeguards on duty. As with any natural beach, visitors should be aware of changing tides, sea conditions and the possibility of strong currents after storms. Is Ness Cove suitable for families? Yes. Families enjoy exploring the tunnel, paddling in the sea, searching for rock pools and picnicking on the beach. Parents should take care on the steep steps leading down to the cove and keep children away from the cliff base. Are dogs allowed on Ness Cove? Dogs are generally welcome, although seasonal restrictions may apply at certain times of the year. It is always best to check local notices before visiting. Can you walk from Ness Cove onto the South West Coast Path? Yes. Ness Cove provides easy access to the South West Coast Path, with wonderful walks towards Labrador Bay, Maidencombe and Teignmouth, offering spectacular views across the South Devon coastline. When is the best time to visit Ness Cove? Late spring, early summer and early autumn are ideal, with pleasant temperatures and fewer visitors than the height of the summer holidays. Early mornings and evenings are especially rewarding for photographers. What else is there to do in Shaldon? Shaldon is a delightful estuary village with charming streets, independent cafés, riverside walks, a small wildlife trust, nearby beaches and a seasonal passenger ferry linking the village with Teignmouth. Together they make an excellent day out on the South Devon coast.

A True Secret Seaside in North Devon Speke’s Mill Mouth has the complete kit of parts necessary to be named as one of the region’s great secret seasides. You can only access it by descending a wobbly looking staircase that looms next door to a giant waterfall – and the area boasts rare butterflies, a long lost Swannery which went the same way as a saint’s chapel and a herd of wild horses. That list alone puts it firmly into our top-20 list desirable coastal locations, but when you learn that this little bit of the littoral was once described by the Ancient Greek scholar, Ptolemy, as the “Promontory of Hercules”, then you know we are talking about somewhere very special indeed. If you enjoy this post, take a look at our Devon page for more articles. Geography of the Hartland Coast Let’s get a geographic handle on all this salty excitement… The west-facing shore of Hartland Peninsula, as it is sometimes inaccurately known, represents a giant roller-coaster created by hills and valleys that run at right-angles to the coast. South of Hartland Quay’s east-west pointing ridge, which is crowned by the small village of Stoke, there are a couple such valleys. The more northerly splits in two as it reaches the sea, because a remarkable knoll called St Catherine’s Tor gets in the way. The southerly valley seems almost minded to make a similar division, thanks to an intervening ridge called Swansford Hill, but its wayward coombe doesn’t quite break through to make its own exits seawards, although one day it will when they’ve been sufficiently eroded. The Dramatic Speke’s Mill Waterfall The main valley does, however, continue westwards to suddenly end in a void. And I mean very suddenly. The void in question is marked by a smooth wall of cliff than tumbles vertically some 120 feet to the shore. In doing so it rudely and abruptly interrupts the flow of the Speke Mill stream that runs down from a riverside hamlet beneath a place called Warrior’s Bridge. The stream has no choice. It must fall. And it does so with a sublime and scary 80-foot milky-ness which sees it hiss down on to rocks far below, then tumble through more crags down to the shore. When it’s in full flow, this waterfall deserves a place on Devon’s list of finest natural phenomena. If you're looking for more local routes ending at a great inn, check out our guide to Six Great Pub Walks in Devon The shore beneath is our secret seaside – and it is a beach which, one assumes, was far less dramatic thousands of years ago before the cliffs were eroded to create what is now a hanging valley. Walking Routes and Views If you want to visit the area I’d recommend starting inland where the landscape is tame and sheltered and quite different from the ruggedness of the coast which you’ll walk down to. Like so many of the inner corners of these wooded coombes that punctuate the North Devon-Cornwall border you could be somewhere deep in Exmoor National Park. But that’s to ignore the big bald hilltops that burgeon all around and the wild, wild coast that lies so close just downstream. A track conveys you from the cosy confines of Docton Mill, where the nearest paved road is, towards the sea coast. But just before it reaches the cliffs there’s a chance to swing left and cross a footbridge over the stream – and the point of taking this detour is that you can climb the spur at the end of Swansford Hill which will give you the most tremendous view of Speke’s Mill Mouth and of distant St Catherine’s Tor. Back on the northern side of the stream that’s about to fling itself into the abyss, you’ll find the aforementioned wooden staircase. It’s just beyond the waterfall and it will allow you to make the final descent with relative ease. A Beach for Tide-Watchers Twice have I been to this most lonely of beaches – this week when the tide was in and the Atlantic was crashing on to the rocks, and several years ago when it was out, revealing a large and beautiful stretch of golden sand. Obviously, I’d recommend checking the tide tables and experiencing Speke’s Mill Mouth on the ebb rather than the flow – and I’d also recommend making a further detour, while you are in these remote parts, to explore remarkable St Catherine’s Tor. St Catherine’s Tor and the Lost Swannery It is one of the most remarkable protuberances to be found anywhere along the South West Coast Path. The tor looks like a miniature mountain that has been cut in half – and its location is surprising and unexpected. The inland flanks of the knoll are surrounded by a flat field which looks somehow manmade – indeed, it is three-parts ringed by an impressive wall. For years this unusual landscape feature bewildered me – the flat field with its rampart looked so unlikely and at odds with its wilder surroundings - but it was Sir Hugh Stucley, owner of the Hartland Abbey estate in which this remarkable landscape is situated, who cleared the conundrum up for me… “The monks who had the abbey built a swannery there,” he told me. “There used to be a couple of fields, but actually they were the bottom of what was a shallow lake formed by a dam. The monks used it for fish, and of course they’d also eat the swans – but it all fell into disuse after the Dissolution in 1539.” Sir Hugh went on: “On top of St Catherine’s Tor there was a chapel and there used to be a track leading up there. I think the chapel lasted a lot longer than the swannery lake because we have records of my great uncle, who died in 1911, taking a horse and cart up there.” Wildlife and Conservation Sir Hugh is rightfully proud of the conservation work that he’s been pursuing in the area: “We’re trying to reintroduce the large blue butterfly which used to be here until the habitat was changed,” he said. “Up until the 1950s there were a lot of rabbits out on the sea cliffs around St Catherine’s Tor and there was also a herd of more-or-less wild horses. They were herded up once a year and some were taken for meat. People were still hungry back then after the War - but then keeping horses for meat became unthinkable. “The point was that the rabbits and horses used to keep the grasses and other plants down – which suited the large blue butterfly. But then the rabbits got myxomatosis and the wild horses went – so the result was that the gorse, in particular, choked the area and grew up to shoulder height. “We’ve been trying to get it back as it was, and I must say this last summer the area looked a picture with plants like wild thyme growing.” A Place of Saints and Ancient History One would like to think that St Catherine would be pleased by the care now being taken of her remote bit of coast. She is supposed to have meditated a while on top of the Tor and St Nectan, the Celtic saint, is also believed to have made his hermitage somewhere near here. There are also references to the fact that remains of a Roman villa have been found close by. Who knows, the local Roman gentry may have been inspired to move to this wondrous place by Ptolemy’s description that was the “Promontory of Hercules”, stranger things have happen along our shores. Frequently Asked Questions About Speke's Mill Mouth Where is Speke's Mill Mouth? Speke's Mill Mouth lies just south of Hartland Quay on the spectacular North Devon coast. It can be reached by following the South West Coast Path for around 20 minutes from the Hartland Quay car park. Why is Speke's Mill Mouth famous? It is best known for its dramatic waterfall, which plunges around 30 metres down the cliffs before flowing onto a wild, secluded beach. The combination of waterfall, hanging valley and rugged coastline makes it one of Devon's most photographed hidden locations. Is Speke's Mill Mouth suitable for families? The walk is relatively short but includes uneven cliff paths and steep steps down to the beach. Families should take care, especially with young children, as the cliffs are unfenced in places. Can you swim at Speke's Mill Mouth? Although the waterfall pools and beach look inviting, the sea can be dangerous because of strong waves, rip currents and submerged rocks. Always assess conditions carefully before entering the water. When is the best time to visit? Late spring, summer and early autumn usually provide the best weather and the safest walking conditions. Visiting at low tide allows you to explore more of the beach and surrounding rock pools. Is there parking nearby? Yes. The nearest parking is at Hartland Quay, from where the South West Coast Path leads directly to Speke's Mill Mouth. Is Speke's Mill Mouth dog friendly? Dogs are welcome on the beach and coastal path throughout much of the year, although owners should keep pets under control around livestock and near cliff edges. What else is there to see nearby? Hartland Quay offers dramatic geology, fascinating maritime history and superb coastal walks. The surrounding Hartland Peninsula is one of the wildest and least developed stretches of coastline in southern England.

This is an article I wrote when visiting Scilly many years ago… Surf and Turf the West Country Way It’s difficult to be hungry where sea meets land, especially here in the West Country where fertile soils produce crops in a climate that is heated by the warm, fish-rich waters of the Gulf Stream. Some restaurants would sum it up with the American phrase “surf ‘n’ turf” - then probably serve you fat prawns from Thailand and even fatter steaks from cattle raised in factory farms. In the West Country the traditional surf ‘n’ turf diet was a good deal more modest - and arguably a great deal more delicious. For centuries it was one that was enjoyed by thousands of coastal folk living along the peninsula’s coasts, but nowhere was this reliance on both sea and soil more prevalent than in the Isles of Scilly. A Conversation with a Scillonian Fisher-Farmer The other day I visited a retired farmer-fisherman on the islands planning to talk about a ghost ship (which you can read about in the panel), but it was Brian Jenkins’ recollections of the changes in island lifestyles that made me realise he was describing an existence that has now almost entirely disappeared. Brian Jenkins Seasonal Living by the Tides The beauty of the farmer-fisher lifestyle was that it dovetailed wonderfully with the seasons. In the balmy days of summer you fished for the abundant species that arrive in warm weather. Autumn storms would blow this occupation asunder, but would also hurl tons of seaweed up onto the beaches. This was a first class fertiliser and so the farmer-fisher folk would beach their boats and help spread Nature’s free gift on the salty fields. Winter was for field dressing and planting - and the very early spring they enjoy in those isles was for harvesting… Narcissi and New Potatoes: Scilly’s Traditional Crops In the end, it was early scented narcissi that earned the Scillonian fisher-farmer his main living – along with a few fields set aside for what were some of the most delicious early potatoes ever grown. IF YOU ENJOY THIS POST CHECK OUT BEST WALKS IN THE ISLES OF SCILLY HERE Crayfish, Tide-Crooks and Lost Techniques But it was the long lost fishing techniques that Brian described which fascinated me. Take the islanders’ love for the giant crayfish of times gone by. I, alas, have never seen –let alone tasted - such a beast in all the 32 years I’ve been visiting the archipelago… “Back in my younger days there were crayfish. Big spiky fellas – much bigger than the average lobster. Three pounds in weight,” says Brian, who nowadays has retired to the main island of St Mary’s. “Where have they gone? We caught them. Sadly, we wiped them out,” he adds, with all the honesty of someone who is not in the least bit ashamed of the fact, but proud to have been a part of such a hard working industry. I’d also heard – but never seen – of the use of a long, hooked, stick called a tide-crook, which was widely used among the islands for catching lobster at extremely low tides. “Yes, I’ve used one,” said Brian, not overly enamoured with the tool. “If you get one or two, you are lucky. My father - going back to the 1920s - he had seven in one day, and that’s the most I’ve heard of in Scilly. “You’ve got to know the holes – there’s a good one I know near Rushy Bay (on the southern point of Bryher). I came out of the Forces in ‘55 and I had four the first winter I was home out of that same hole. And it’s usually a good-sized cock lobster. “I had one that was nine pounds and I know of two others who had nine pounders. It (the tide crook) was, say, six feet (long) and on the end it had a turned hook. Underneath (the shallow water) there would be a hollow in the rocks and if Mr Lobster was in there you’d feel him. Sometimes it will come out on the hook. You just disturb it – ‘tease’ it would be a better word - and draw ‘un out and pick ‘un up. You got to know how to pick it up and, yes, you’ve got to be careful of your toes. Bryher in evening light Shellfish and Seaweed: Forgotten Bounty “Other shellfish? Cockles, yes, and we used to get scallops - but you won’t get them inshore now because we fished them all. At one time you could pick them up, but we’ve out-fished everything. Eelgrass and the Decline of Marine Biodiversity “Another thing that’s changed is that, in my father’s time, there was sedge, or eel grass, that used to be between Bryher and Tresco,” recalls Brian. “Anything between four and five feet tall, it was - and it formed muddy banks. That was marvellous stuff to shelter any small fish - prawns for instance - and wrasse and conger and in among it there was plaice and other things. “They would live in that – but to the best of my knowledge there was a virus that went through it (the eel grass) right throughout the world. Now there’s only a few wispy bits left on Scilly. Spear Fishing and the ‘Smolt’ Days “In Augustus Smith’s time (the man who began the regeneration of Tresco in the 19th century) the islanders were having very hard times back then,” says Brian, outlining how Smith had described early fishing techniques within the isles. “He called them the ‘spear fishermen of Scilly’ – they fished, not with a hook, but with a spear 10 or 12 feet long. “You’d go out on what the old men would call a ‘smolt’ - a calm when there’s no wind on water - and they would look down and spear plaice and even some turbot which went about in pairs as a rule. They had five days of ‘smolt’ at one time – I can’t tell you exactly what year, 1820 perhaps - and they were pretty hard up for food at that time. And they had five days and they caught nearly 10,000 flatfish in those five days.” Prawning on the Shoreline Prawning was another shoreline pursuit - one that Brian still practices today. “Not for Dublin Bay prawns - inshore prawns,” he tells me with some enthusiasm. “Shrimps have a spike over each eye - the prawns we catch only have one. “With a net on a stick you walk along - you push it in front of you,” he explained when I asked how he caught the prawns. “The later in the year, the bigger they are. Then the ground seas come in October time and they move out to deep water. It (prawning) is an old Scillonian thing - and they are indeed delicious. Alfie Trenear - the undertaker chap - him and I have done a lot of it. A lot. And I should think the most we have come home with is anything up between 12 and 14 gallon. The Grey Mullet Catches of the Sixties “I started grey mullet fishing (inside the inter-island shallows) after I left the Forces and we did that for a few years. Still do in fact… In the Sixties we had some big catches - up to two-and-a-quarter ton. That was the biggest and the number of fish was 1,650. That was between Bryher and Tresco. “Next week we shall start again,” Brian told me. “And now we consider 200 or 250 fish to be a nice catch.” From Flowers to Tourism: Changing Times on Bryher I asked Brian, who is one of the last remaining old fashioned fisher-farmers left in the isles, to describe his average year half a century ago. “In my time the flower season would start, say, a month before Christmas. That would go on through to Easter - then you’d start fishing and have your potatoes out. “Market gardening – that’s the big difference compared to today. There were 13 viable smallholdings (on Bryher) – but that’s all gone. Finished. Nearly everybody up there now is involved in tourism. “There were quite a few of the smaller smallholdings had dropped out when I started work in 1950. Home with my father, I was. Some fishing - some market gardening. We ought to have been called crofters because that’s what we were more than anything else. “I suppose air travel worldwide changed it, because you could fly in flowers from Kenya or Australia or Israel or anywhere else faster than you could get them from here. “And also the land was worn out,” sighed Brian. “Very, very tired from one crop (flowers). There was nothing else we could rotate with that was profitable. Hand-Built Fields and the Value of Seaweed “Potatoes? Only in small pockets. You need a sheltered field pointing south with drainage. You’ve seen the ‘green fences’ around (on Bryher) - I grew most of them with my father. Before that it was wide, open, spaces. “Some of that my father had ‘broke’ from the downs - between 1890 and 1910 by a man called Tom Christopher. He may have been from Cornwall – he was paid £1 a week and his keep for six 12-hour days. Breaking it all by hand. He would start from gorse or whatever it happened to be, take the stones out and make up the (stone) hedges. And lot of those have never broken down from that day to this. “We had very limited acreage and any amount of people have asked me over the years - there was always someone saying: ‘Why don’t you grow strawberries or whatever?’ “Narcissi were far more profitable than anything to do with a few veggies,” shrugs Brian. “We’d have a small amount of early potatoes - they’d occasionally pay quite well. We’d have maybe a week or fortnight’s work out of that. And I grew iris flowers – that was a very quick crop that would be about the middle of April-May. They would be a good profitable crop for, say, a couple of weeks and we’d do better out of those than all the veggies we’d ever seen. “Seaweed? Yes indeed. The best fertiliser that has ever gone on the land. I think when I finished I had eight acres – say five – and maybe you’d have empty acre each year and I’d put a 150 loads - a ton to a load – on that field. I don’t know of any crop or plant that dislikes seaweed.” A Lost Way of Life Remembered Nowadays very few people harvest the seaweed, or anything else much for that matter on Scilly save for the famous scented narcissi. The lifestyle of the crofters or fisher-farmers is but a memory enjoyed only by a handful of older men and women in the isles. Like the last wisps of eel grass in the Sound, they harbour the final vestiges of another world. Could the Fisher-Farmer Lifestyle Return? It would be easy to dismiss the old fisher-farmer way of life as another quaint chapter in Britain's rural history, destined to sit alongside horse-drawn ploughs, village blacksmiths and steam threshing engines. Times change, after all. Nobody expects islanders to go back to collecting seaweed in wooden carts or rowing out to check lobster pots before breakfast. Or do they? Listening to Brian Jenkins, I couldn't help wondering whether the old Scillonian way of life might have something to teach us after all. Long before anyone had coined fashionable expressions such as "sustainability", "organic farming" or "low food miles", island families were already living them without giving it a second thought. Nothing was wasted. Seaweed became fertiliser. Fish that couldn't be sold found their way onto the family table. Gardens produced vegetables for the kitchen and flowers for the mainland markets. If something broke, it was mended rather than replaced. There were no celebrity chefs urging people to eat with the seasons because there simply wasn't any alternative. Today, many of those ideas are back in fashion. Farmers are rediscovering natural fertilisers. Shoppers are seeking out locally grown food. Restaurants proudly announce the name of the fisherman who landed today's catch, while visitors happily pay extra for produce that has travelled a few hundred yards instead of a few thousand miles. Of course, nobody imagines that the Isles of Scilly will ever return to the days when almost every family combined fishing with farming. Tourism has become the islands' economic lifeblood and few young people could make a living from such a hard and uncertain existence. Brian himself would probably smile at the idea. Yet, in quieter ways, perhaps the tradition is already returning. Small producers are flourishing. Fresh seafood remains at the heart of island menus. Honesty stalls brim with vegetables, eggs and homemade preserves. Vineyards, flower growers, artisan distillers and family-run farms are proving that there is still room for people who work with the land and sea rather than against them. Perhaps that is the real legacy of the fisher-farmers. Not that we should try to recreate their lives exactly, but that we should remember the values that shaped them: self-reliance, resourcefulness and a profound respect for the seasons. As I left Bryher, I found myself thinking that while the old way of life may never fully return, its spirit never really disappeared. You can still catch glimpses of it in a lobster pot hauled ashore, a bunch of scented narcissi, or a handful of seaweed drying on a granite wall. If you know where to look, the past is still quietly going about its business. The annual Christmas tree is delivered to the folk of Bryher FAQ What was a fisher-farmer in the Isles of Scilly? A fisher-farmer combined fishing with small-scale farming, adapting work to the seasons. Summer was spent catching fish and shellfish, while winter focused on growing flowers, potatoes and vegetables, often using seaweed as a natural fertiliser. Why did the fisher-farmer lifestyle disappear? Cheaper imported flowers, changes in farming, tourism becoming the islands' main industry and the decline of traditional fishing all contributed to the disappearance of this way of life. Why was seaweed so important? Storm-cast seaweed was collected from beaches and spread on fields as a rich organic fertiliser. It helped produce famous early potatoes and scented narcissi while improving the naturally sandy soils. What crops were traditionally grown in the Isles of Scilly? The islands became famous for early narcissi, daffodils and exceptionally early potatoes, made possible by the Gulf Stream's mild climate and generations of careful cultivation. What happened to the eelgrass around the Isles of Scilly? Extensive eelgrass beds once sheltered fish, prawns and other marine life. Disease and environmental change caused major declines, affecting local marine ecosystems and traditional fisheries. Can you still see traditional fishing in the Isles of Scilly? Yes. Inshore fishing remains an important industry, although today's fisheries are carefully managed for sustainability and only a handful of people still remember the old fisher-farmer way of life.