August is in full swing, and this year uncertainty and unfavourable exchange rates could mean that the West Country peninsula becomes busier than ever with visitors attempting to find respite from an increasingly worrying world. Empty Cornish coves Forget city-breaks and trendy downtown destinations—wild, unspoilt, quiet, empty places are what’s needed. There’s been a plethora of books and guides published in recent years singing the virtues of going to wild places and including everything from wild swimming to tree-hugging—but which are the best places in which to chill out in South West England? One guide describes the region as being full of… “Storm-battered headlands, hidden waterfalls, tumbledown cottages, the ruins of haunted chapels deep in forgotten woods, mediaeval Green Men, old mines and quarries being recaptured by nature, rusting sea-forts tottering on sandbanks…” Not a bad overview. But there seems to be a more general perception that the “quaint little Westcountry” is a place where folk go on holiday, have a cream tea and maybe swallow a crab sandwich in some overly commercialised fishing village, before going back to their caravans or guest-houses. Even when people are looking for green leafy voids, oceanic vastness or moorland emptiness on the national stage, we get overlooked or forgotten. Walkers on the moors at Zennor, West Cornwall Secret Walks in Somerset: The Brendons, Levels, and Quantocks I live in the Brendon Hills—the eastern limb of Exmoor—which I know through my extensive walking researches to be the least visited range of uplands anywhere south of The Pennines. Fine by me, but visitors miss out on the amazing walks and panoramas that the escarpment can offer without the risk of ever seeing another tourist in sight. The Brendon Hills If you were to walk on wild and lofty Bird’s Hill high above the West Somerset village of Monksilver, for example, there’s little chance that you would see another living soul—be it summer or winter. In fact, before the Coleridge Way long-distance trail was inaugurated to skirt the hill, you could have spent years up there without seeing another human being. Much the same could be said about the vast amphitheatre of valleys two miles west that surround the remote hamlet of Comberow. Coleridge Way passes through the Brendon Hills Again, you are highly unlikely to meet anyone. There’s another vast Somerset location which joins the Brendons in luring very, very few tourists at all. The Somerset Levels offer some of the best “get-away-from-it-all” venues anywhere in England. There are fantastic walking routes, cycleways or even canoeing possibilities which will see you being the only person in the vast empty landscape. Filled with charming, unspoilt villages that play host to quiet pubs, the Levels are ideal for anyone who likes gentle walks or cycle rides with no gradients—but who also likes to see loads of wildlife and plant-life. It can’t be beaten for its enormous flocks of birds—or hosts of butterflies for that matter. (CHECK OUT OUR SOMERSET WALKS PAGE HERE) Somerset Levels, an empty landscape full of birds For a real landscape treat, visit the National Trust’s Burrow Mump, right in the heart of the Levels. Enigmatic, lonely—this is a steep island in a sea of green flatness which occasionally turns blue when the Levels flood. Stand by the ruined church on the summit and you can gaze down at the place where King Alfred burned the cakes. The edges of the Levels also offer some amazing locations in which to escape the madding crowd. Try the fabulous Polden Way, for example—its six short miles which take you along the ridge to the east of the Levels offer some of the best hiking panoramas in the West Country. Escape the High-Summer Crowds in Somerset Check live availability for quiet B&Bs, countryside cottages, and historic inns across the Somerset Levels and Exmoor escarpment using our interactive accommodation finder: View of flooding from the top of Burrowbridge Mump, Somerset Levels Quiet Spots Across East & South Devon Down into Devon, there’s the lovely Blackdown Hills Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty—which must be one of the least visited AONB areas in England. Again, it’s an area full of charming villages and endless rights-of-way where you’ll hardly ever see another person. On the Blackdown Hills, Castle Neroche is the vantage point—the lynch-pin—that casts its dark and historic eye over just about all of the troublesome borderlands which used to divide Wessex from the West Country proper. Up here you are walking along the ramparts of the old Norman fort, and pretty spectacular ramparts they are. Apart from the breath-taking views, the very slopes of the Norman workings are astonishing enough with near vertical drops plunging 80 feet down into the forest. Typical landscape in the Blackdowns AONB You can look across at another AONB from here—and a stroll along Quantock’s airy heights where the wind never stops whispering among the pale deciduous grasses and where the panoramas come in wide-screen mode, is one of the most peaceful things you could ever do. Few places inspire such an innate and elemental sense that seems to tell you that here, in the cups of the coombes, lies the very bosom of the English countryside. Perhaps it is the homely redness of the sandstone, maybe it is the very shape of those superb curves that contour every glade and headland: it is hard to say exactly how or why the hills score so many points on the wilderness front. Go up Bicknoller Coombe to the big empty ridge for some of the best, loneliest, moments the Quantocks have to offer. View looking south from ridge of the Quantock Hills Remote Exmoor: Wild Valleys and Empty Acres Moving west again, Exmoor does, of course, boast some of the emptiest, least visited acres in all of England. The great ravine between Kitnor Heath and Codsend Moors just south of Dunkery seems to be a no-go zone for humans. On the numerous occasions I’ve walked there since boyhood, I have never seen a single person there. There are a lot of ravens. And deer. Then there are the partridges making their strange, almost exotic, chirring noises in the riverine abyss deep below Codsend. A few sheep bleating, a few larks ascending. No sound of man. The deer moving imperceptibly through the bracken, a group of Exmoor ponies way on the horizon, a few cattle minding their own business. And not much else at all. (CHECK OUT OUR EXMOOR WALKS PAGE HERE) The lonely expanse of central Exmoor Then there’s Larbarrow, Southern England’s answer to the African savannah or the Russian steppes. The vast hinterland that rises to the north of the young River Exe is a primeval landscape which has more or less been untouched by the hand of man. Stand in its midst and the only straight line of man’s making you may see is an airliner’s vapour trail. Everything else will be as nature intended. This is the England where great herds of big wild animals would have once roamed unmolested. And this is where you can roam pretty much unmolested to this day. No one for miles in the middle of Exmoor on a sunny day Coastal Seclusion & Hidden Forests Down in East Devon, Aylesbeare Common is a place which still retains a sense of wilderness. It’s a rare chunk of ancient heathland that plays home to the largest number of butterfly species to be found in any RSPB reserve. Incredible really, to be just a few miles outside Exeter and into such a great swathe of nature-rich wilderness… Extensive forests in East Devon Exactly the same could be said for Ashclyst Forest. It is just a mile or two off the M5, yet the National Trust owned forest boasts a sense of concealment. It breathes privacy and seclusion. Ashclyst is a mixed woodland and you get the distinct feeling, walking out of earshot of the modern world, that this is how much of England used to be. Golden Cap might be one of the most highly protected places in the region, being a key point of the Jurassic Coast World Heritage Site, and yet its lofty summit still exudes wilderness, as does much of the National Trust’s Golden Cap estate. Rare snakes, lizards, butterflies and birds all haunt the area, but it’s the stupendous views that give you the sense of lofty isolation. From Golden Cap you can look down across the gargantuan landslides that mark this coast—past a million dinosaur fossils to Charmouth, and on again along half of the Jurassic Park. Golden Cap, Dorset You only have to climb the Haldon Hill range just south of Exeter to know that there’s plenty of awesome countryside where you can go to feel immersed in nature. Yes, these hills do have two major roads running through them—but walk out to lofty Obelisk Plantation, stroll through Gilpin’s Bottom or wander through Deadman’s Coombe out to Whiteway Wood and you will know you are somewhere very lonesome and lovely indeed. Beyond lie the South Hams, and here again there are wild empty spaces to enjoy. The area might be one of the region’s more well-to-do zones—most barns may have been converted into posh residential hideaways—but there are plenty of lonesome corners nevertheless. Even near urban Torbay you can discover a sense of solitude almost as profound and deep as that to be enjoyed on the heights of distant Dartmoor. Seeking Solitude in Devon in High Summer? Bypass the jammed coastal resorts and drop anchor in the quiet heart of the county. From remote Dartmoor edge inns to secretive B&Bs hidden in the Blackdown Hills and Central Devon, find peaceful bases off the beaten track. Forests on Dartmoor Hidden Coast of Devon Walk the coast path south over Long Sands, down to Scabbacombe Sands, then up to the great headland which borrows the tiny cove’s name and you will enjoy some of the best open countryside that 630-mile right of way has to offer. And yet you will be just two miles from the streets of Brixham and three from the restaurants of Dartmouth. Sail south a dozen miles and things get even wilder. The coast south of Hallsands running out to Start Point is one of the most undomesticated sections of the entire South West littoral - a terrain known as coastal heath dips steeply to the sea in places where once, long ago, crofters used to scratch a living in a few tiny fields. (CHECK OUT OUR DEVON WALKS PAGE HERE) The empty village of Hallsands, South Devon Now none but gulls and walkers go there—and much the same can be said for the amazing coastal strip around the corner along the beautiful section between Start and Prawle Points. And this southerly wilderness doesn’t finish here. Past Prawle there is one of the most scenic stretches of coastline to be enjoyed anywhere in England. The amazing, empty, magical section between Prawle and the Salcombe estuary might seem obsessed with porky names (there’s Gammon Head, Pig’s Nose and Ham Stone) but no place in the country could be further from thoughts of a pig sty. Wild coast near East Prawle Central Devon: England's Bermuda Triangle I’ll admit we’re in the rather busy South Hams here—if real emptiness and quietude is what you want you might like to try a great swathe of central Devon which could be described as England’s Bermuda Triangle. Hardly anyone ever seems to go there. The triangle that stretches west from Crediton and Tiverton even has a hamlet called Nomansland smack in the middle of it which seems to bear out the notion. Go somewhere like the area north of Chawleigh and walk in the scenic Little Dart Valley and you will see what I mean. This has nothing to do with the region’s other River Dart—but it is just as lovely in its own remote and silent way. Empty forests at Eggesford, Central Devon Not far away, still out in the middle of nowhere, Eggesford is a splendid place in which to take a stroll. “Despite the lack of habitation in the area all trains stop at Eggesford Station because the local landowner made that a condition of releasing the land to build the railway which opened in 1854.” So says a local walks leaflet which also says that Thomas Hardy once alighted here in 1885 and described the scenery as “lovely” and the great house as “handsome”. Nothing much has changed. Far to the north again, someone ought to write a book about the enigmatic hinterland which lies between the A39 and the jagged Atlantic coast after the road turns left at Clovelly and heads south for Bude. The jagged rocky coast near Morwenstow This is “wrecker” country where dangerous denizens once haunted the coast helping themselves to whatever the sea washed up—where, later, Parson Hawker tamed them into helping stricken sailors or at least picking up the 'gobbets'—which were human bits and pieces left over from the storm. The village of Kilkhampton, deep in Wreckers' Country But it boasts more than coastal savagery. The visitor looking for wilderness is drawn into deep, secretive valleys that lead down to those frightening, razor cliffs. They will find bluebell woods hiding from the cruel sea, dizzying waterfalls and hidden hamlets snug in quiet coombes. High above all this the Tamar is born, and if you follow this south you’ll come to some very empty places indeed. Take Cookworthy Moor to name but one. It’s impossible to imagine now, as you stroll along a muddy track in the big gloomy forest somewhere out on the bleak clay-lands of Tamar country—now known as Ruby Country—but once upon a time hordes of happy holidaymakers would rattle on trains through this lonesome place on their way to the Cornish coast. Further downstream the Tamar becomes surrounded by higher and higher hills which are the first risings and eminences of Bodmin Moor and Dartmoor. Tamar river scene near Cotehele Dartmoor & Bodmin Moor Wilderness Walks Where could be wilder than Dartmoor? In England you’d have to go a long way north to find a landscape that’s emptier and less mucked about with by mankind. One location I’d choose to represent a wilder, more peaceful Britain would be Tavy Cleave and beyond. Nowhere I know in this peninsula is wilder or more empty—the roaring river cuts through the rocky ravine and there have been times when I’ve thought the place has looked more Andean or Himalayan than something from homely Devonshire. (CHECK OUT OUR CORNWALL WALKS PAGE HERE) Lonely Tavy Cleave, West Dartmoor I’d also recommend the headwaters of the East Dart River—walking up there from Postbridge is like striding into Conrad’s novel Heart of Darkness. Then there’s Taw Head, which is plonk in the centre of Dartmoor’s northern vastness. It is as middle-of-nowhere-ish as you get in this peninsula. Now we can cross the Tamar into Cornwall in search of a bit of peace and quiet… A Cornish press photographer once growled to me: “I don’t know how I do my job in July and August—half the county is one big traffic jam.” No one who’s ever been west of the Tamar during high summer will have any argument with this statement, but that’s not to say the place isn’t rich in wild places… Footbridge on the lonely River Tavy, West Devon Escaping High Summer Crowds in Cornwall It’s often said that South East Cornwall is the county’s forgotten corner—and it is true to say that often the tourists pass right on by in their hurry to head west. The coastline from Cawsand out to Rame Head is wonderfully wild and scenic—indeed, it is hard to imagine you are just a few miles from Plymouth, the 11th biggest city in England. Rame Head is a magnificent affair and to reach it you must climb countless steps to the top of an oceanic knoll. Here stands the ruined 14th century Chapel of St Michael—it may be drafty, but apparently the local church comes out here once a year for a full-blown service. The wind never stops whispering among the wild lichen gardens of the holy eaves, and from the chapel's gaping southerly window you can see the Eddystone Lighthouse being vertical and brave out there in the great disc-world of the sea. Beating the High-Summer Traffic in Cornwall? You don't need to get stuck in coastal gridlock to enjoy the far West. Discover quiet B&Bs, granite moorland cottages, and tucked-away village inns across South East Cornwall, Bodmin Moor, and the far reaches of West Penwith. Walker with Rame Head in the background One of the least wild places along this part of the littoral is Polperro, which is not surprising as it’s one of the region's prettiest ports. But just to the west of Tourist Central you will discover one of the most beautiful and dramatic stretches of coastline we have. The South West Coast Path does its usual trick of undulating here—it goes up, and it goes down—past Nealand Point and Colors Cove, beyond Blackybale Point and Penslake Cove. Now let’s head inland directly north to the roof of Cornwall. Minions is Cornwall's topmost village—at least, in altitudinous terms. There isn't much else up there but a pub, a tea-room and the most extraordinary views—and there is all of Bodmin Moor stretching off in the general direction of the Atlantic Ocean. Cornish coast at Polperro You cannot walk an inch on these lonely plains without bumping into the past. If it's not the prehistoric stone circles, then it's the clutter left by tin-streamers, copper miners and quarrymen who knocked seven bells out of the moors. Few places in the region are as torn up and generally mucked about with as this once productive corner—now there’s no one save the odd walker. Rocks overlooking the old clay workings on Bodmin Moor I could add just about all Bodmin Moor to the West Country empty-place listings, as it is the region’s least visited stand-alone upland. Now let’s go south—a long way south—as far, in fact, as you can go without getting your feet wet. The remarkable Lizard peninsula deserves an article of its own when it comes to empty places. Not all the Lizard, of course—some parts get very busy indeed. But if I was pushed into naming just one spot where gulls go to be lonely on the cape, then it would be Black Head, the mighty headland that guards the eastern shores at the end of Chynhalls Cliff near Coverack. Empty summer beach on east coast of the Lizard Travelling towards the sunset, a great deal of West Penwith can be wild and empty even on the busiest of days. Stick a granite finger into a mighty ocean and that’s the windswept result you’re bound to get. I won’t mention the various “secret” coves I know tucked under the north Penwith Moors, because the last time I did, some readers complained I was putting up a flag that would make them secret no more… The best thing about West Penwith is the ability to explore and discover secret empty places of your own… But just as a hint I’ll tell you that the walk to Zawn Gamper—a cove in the very far west—will introduce you to a very empty zone indeed. Along the way you will be introduced to wild and people-less headlands like Rosemodress Cliffs, Carn Barges, Gazell, Tol Toft and Tater-du. Old Cornish tin mines in a West Penwith valley This is only the most fleeting of round-ups. It would be easy to go into far greater detail and name the exact locations of many of the West Country’s lovely wild and empty zones. But A) we haven’t room—you’d need an entire book, or two… and B) there is something to be said for the people who complained last time I named specific beaches in Cornwall. By telling people about them, we could be guilty of helping to spoil them. Which is why this article has given just a taster of the places where you can go to escape the madding crowds this August. Frequently Asked Questions Where can I go to avoid crowds in Devon during summer? While coastal towns like Salcombe and Torbay get busy in August, central Devon—often dubbed "England's Bermuda Triangle" between Crediton and Tiverton—remains wonderfully quiet. The Little Dart Valley, Eggesford Forest, and the clay-lands of Ruby Country near the Tamar offer peaceful, crowd-free walking. What are the least visited hills in Somerset? The Brendon Hills, forming the eastern limb of Exmoor, are among the least visited uplands south of the Pennines. Walks over Bird's Hill above Monksilver or through the valley amphitheatres surrounding Comberow offer wide panoramas with almost no other walkers in sight. Can you find quiet coastal walks in Cornwall in peak season? Yes. While popular fishing villages and surfing beaches can be packed in July and August, quieter stretches include the coastline between Start Point and Prawle Point, Rame Head in South East Cornwall, and the remote coastal headlands along the far western tip of West Penwith. Is Exmoor quiet in August? Exmoor contains some of the emptiest acres in southern England. Deep valleys like the ravine between Kitnor Heath and Codsend Moors, or the vast open savannah-like hinterland around Larbarrow, remain serene and virtually untouched by peak summer tourism.

What a summer… It’s no wonder that many of us have been eating outdoors as often as we can. Who wants to be in a stuffy, overheated kitchen when the temperatures are rising above 30 degrees? Half the time in a heatwave, the word ‘cooking’ just doesn’t apply. Prepping a bit of salad is more the thing. There’s nothing better than a cooling bowl of tomato salad on an overly warm evening. That is not something I’d have actually bothered to write in a newspaper even a short time ago, because the flavour of the great majority of tomatoes grown and sold in this country was poor to zero. Unless you grew your own, there just were none of the little red flavour bombs around even five years ago — or for most of my adult lifetime, indeed. Supermarket tomatoes became something of a joke — as did the phrase “Grown for flavour” when it began to be introduced to packs of industrialised greenhouse produce. But now we must take our hats off to the growers who supply the big chains with tomatoes and other summer veg. Even in the cut-price stores this summer you’ve been able to buy punnets of named varieties, some of which aren’t at all bad. Those watery, thick-skinned red billiard balls of yesteryear are becoming a bad memory. In just a few years, high-end growers — particularly those making the most of the often sunny (especially this year) Isle of Wight — have fundamentally transformed what we can buy on a standard food-shop. Where once everything was bred purely for shelf-life and uniform shape, today’s top-tier varieties really are bred for flavour. Food writers and chefs have been taking notice, and for good reason. The Science of Flavour: What is the Brix Rating? The secret in all this is something called the Brix rating. In simple terms, Brix is a scale used to measure the natural sugar content in produce (one degree Brix equals one gram of sucrose per 100 grams of liquid). Standard mass-market round tomatoes often hover around a bland 3 or 4 on the scale. But the high-brix cultivars hitting the shelves this summer regularly hit 8, 9, or even higher. It’s not just about raw sweetness, either — high sugar levels act as an amplifier for the natural acids and aromatic compounds, giving you that full-bodied, nostalgic tomato punch that used to be confined to Mediterranean holidays or to the produce coming out of a gardener’s own greenhouse at home. The Best Summer Tomato Varieties to Look For If you’re looking to build a summer platter without turning on the stove, these are the named varieties worth hunting down: Piccolo: Considered by some as the king of the supermarket cherry-vine varieties (found in M&S, Waitrose, and top-tier ranges). It boasts a high Brix score, thin skin, and an aromatic, intense sweetness. Pink Oishi: A pink-hued heritage beefsteak grown on the Isle of Wight. Sliced thick, it offers a silky texture with a rich, savoury umami depth rather than sharp acidity. Viola Cocktail: A traditional vine-ripened cocktail tomato that has been winning blind taste tests. It delivers that classic, punchy "old-fashioned" tomato scent and a perfect sweet-acid balance. Sugardrop & Santini: Small baby plums that pack a dense, concentrated punch. Santini is delightfully fleshy with few seeds, while Sugardrop is purely about crisp, intense sweetness. Coeur de Bœuf (Oxheart): The classic, heavily ribbed Italian beefsteak. It’s velvety, dense, and meaty, making it ideal to slice raw onto a platter with fine olive oil and flaky sea salt. One important tip: Keep them out of the fridge — cold temperatures kill those delicate aromatic volatiles. The Cucumber Revival: Say Goodbye to Watery Greens Which brings us to the humble cucumber — a salad staple that, until recently, was about as exciting as a glass of tap water. To quote the good Dr. Samuel Johnson: "A cucumber should be well sliced, and dressed with pepper and vinegar, and then thrown out, as good for nothing." For years, British shoppers were stuck with standard European straight cucumbers — large, perfectly-formed, shrink-wrapped cylinders bred to be indestructible in transit, packed with soggy, watery seeds and encased in a bitter skin. Now, though, the cucumber market is undergoing its own quiet revival, sometimes driven by a shift toward mini snacking varieties and soil-grown organic crops. If you’ve picked up an organic cucumber from Lidl lately, your tastebuds aren’t deceiving you — they really are a world away from the mass-produced greenhouse versions. Three Reasons Behind a Better Cucumber Flavour Over Tough Outer Armour: Don’t be fooled by a rugged, tough skin — often found on home-grown or organic ridge varieties. Beneath that thick outer hide lies dense, sweet, highly concentrated flesh that puts watery commercial greens to shame. Simply peel off the rough skin, and you are left with top-tier flavour. Denser Flesh and Less Water: Better cultivars (like Persian or organic mini varieties) have tightly structured flesh with tiny seeds, meaning they retain their crisp crunch rather than turning slushy the moment they are cut. Soil and Sunlight: Organic and soil-grown cucumbers grow at a slower, natural pace compared to hydroponic ones. This concentrates their natural mineral salts and green, cooling sweetness. The Salting Trick: Whatever cucumber you use, cut or slice it, toss it with a generous pinch of sea salt, and let it sit in a colander over the sink for 20 minutes. As that pool of pale green, watery juice drains away, the texture transforms from flabby to brilliantly crisp, and the natural cucumber flavour becomes instantly concentrated and punchy. Sweet Peppers: The Long, Sweet Revolution If standard blocky bell peppers are the reliable workhorses of the veg drawer, the long, tapered pointed jobs are the stars of a raw summer feast. Specifically, the Ramiro or Palermo peppers (often sold as "Sweet Pointed" or "Extra Sweet" in M&S, Waitrose, and Tesco Finest). Grown to mature fully on the vine, they carry virtually no bitterness and have a thinner skin than standard bell peppers. Their natural sugars peak in mid-to-late summer, giving them a crisp, juicy bite that is almost fruit-like in its sweetness. The No-Cook Trick: Don’t bother chopping them into neat rings. Tear them open by hand, pull out the core, and snap them into jagged, rustic shards. Dip them straight into good olive oil mixed with sea salt, or scoop up soft, creamy goat’s cheese. Radishes: Bringing Back the Pepper Radishes suffered the same fate as old-school supermarket tomatoes for years — bred to look like perfect little red marbles, but tasting mostly of water. Fortunately, the revival of heritage varieties has brought back the fiery pepperiness that makes a radish so refreshing on a hot day. French Breakfast: Long and oblong with a white tip, these are mild, crunchy, and delightfully peppery without blowing your head off. Heritage Mixed Radishes: (Widely available in M&S and Waitrose in summer). Cut these open and you get stunning pink, purple, and white starbursts. They have a denser texture and a sharp, mustardy bite that cuts through rich food brilliantly. The Classic French Preparation: I also slice and salt the cheaper ones and after a few hours under a sprinkle of the white stuff they do lose a lot of liquid and gain in flavour. You can also enjoy them the Middle European way — trim the roots, wash them well (leaving a nub of the green stem for a handle), and serve them whole alongside a slab of heavily salted, good-quality unpasteurised butter and a pile of crusty bread. Smear the radish into the cold, rich butter and eat alongside a cold top-quality German or Czech lager for one of the simplest and greatest no-cook treats available in summer. Assembling a World-Class West Country Summer Platter When you aren't cooking, the charcuterie and cheese often need to carry the whole show. Forget mass-market imports — the West Country and its immediate neighbours are producing world-beating cured meats and unpasteurised cheeses that belong on any proper summer platter: Farmhouse & Unpasteurised Cheeses Somerset: Traditional clothbound raw-milk cheddars like Keen’s, Montgomery’s, or Westcombe. They offer a deep, savoury, broth-like umami bite and a crumbly structure that pairs effortlessly with sweet Ramiro peppers and ripe Piccolo tomatoes. Devon: The iconic Sharpham soft cheese (from near Totnes), rich and buttery, or Quicke’s clothbound cheddar from the rich pastures of Devon’s Creedy Valley bringing a grassy, nut-like depth. Cornwall: A wedge of nettle-wrapped Cornish Yarg or creamy Helford Blue, providing a sharp, buttery kick to sit alongside sliced tomatoes. Herefordshire: Dorstone from Neal’s Yard Creamery — a turret-shaped, ash-rolled goat’s cheese with a light, mousse-like texture and a bright, citrusy acidity that cuts through rich food brilliantly. Gloucestershire: A genuine single-estate Double Gloucester or a tangy, ash-coated Cerney Ash goat’s cheese from the Cotswolds. Regional Artisan Charcuterie Dorset: Capreolus Fine Foods (based in West Dorset). Their award-winning air-dried Dorset Coppa and Dorset Guanciale carry sweet, marbled fat that melts on the tongue. Devon: Good Game Charcuterie in Topsham, using local free-range pigs and game to produce traditional, salt-cured salami, coppa, and bresaola without artificial preservatives. Somerset: Somerset Charcuterie, blending traditional Italian and Spanish curing techniques with local flavours like West Country cider, mustard, and wild garlic. Cornwall: Duchy Charcuterie (Redruth), producing extraordinary air-dried hams, spicy chorizo, and black-pudding salamis. The Essential Pantry Elevators Caperberries: Served whole with their stems attached, these firm, seed-filled berries offer a satisfying, vinegary pop. They slice clean through the rich fats of cured pork and raw-milk cheddar, instantly clearing the palate. Salted Anchovies & Olives: A few Spanish or Italian salt-cured anchovies in extra virgin olive oil laid over a slice of Pink Oishi tomato, accompanied by a scattering of plump, brine-cured olives. Toss a crusty loaf of local sourdough on the board, pour a small bowl of good olive oil, sprinkle with sea salt, and you have a regional, no-cook feast fit for the hottest afternoon of the summer. The "At a Glance" Summer Salad Guide What is the Brix rating in tomatoes? Brix measures the natural sugar content in produce. Standard supermarket tomatoes usually score a bland 3 or 4, whereas high-Brix varieties (like Piccolo or Pink Oishi) hit 8 or 9, amplifying natural aromatics and sweet-acid balance. Should you keep fresh tomatoes in the fridge? No. Cold temperatures destroy the delicate volatile aromatic compounds that give tomatoes their rich, nostalgic flavour. Keep them at room temperature on the counter. How do you make cucumbers less watery and more crisp? Slice your cucumber, toss generously with sea salt, and let it sit in a colander over the sink for 20 minutes. Draining off that excess pale juice concentrates the natural flavour and leaves the texture brilliantly crisp. What are the best West Country cheeses for a no-cook summer board? Clothbound raw-milk cheddars (Keen’s, Montgomery’s, Westcombe), buttery Sharpham soft cheese, nettle-wrapped Cornish Yarg, and citrusy ash-coated goat’s cheese like Cotswold Cerney Ash or Herefordshire Dorstone.

The lonely Exford-Porlock Hill road across the heart of Exmoor Sometimes there’s nothing for it but to reach the roof of the world. What a person needs is altitude. He or she needs air and space — and lots of it. Here in the West Country we are lucky because we have some of the best spaces imaginable that can assuage the yearning for the wide open emptiness which only highland wilderness can offer. Dartmoor has its swathes and Bodmin Moor has some excellent sweeping scenery too — but there is one central area of Exmoor that particularly fits the bill. From the great void of the central moors to dark evergreen oak forests tumbling down to the Severn Sea, these four classic circular walks offer the very best antidote to modern life. The empty heart of Exmoor surrounding Larkbarrow If you're planning a walking weekend in central Exmoor, local pub-inns and holiday cottages fill up quickly during peak season. You can check real-time availability and compare local stays using our interactive map below: 1. Larkbarrow Corner & Beckham Circular The great waste — to use that word in the old-fashioned sense — that lies west of the Dunkery range is Southern England’s answer to the African savannah or the Russian steppes. It is a primeval landscape which has more or less been untouched by the hand of man. Stand in its midst and the only straight line of man’s making you may see is the vapour trail of an airliner. Everything else will be as nature intended — the England of the giant aurochs, where great herds of big animals would have once roamed unmolested. A walker studies a map above Larkbarrow To find it, march west from Larkbarrow Corner out into the middle of nothing — or rather, onto a big bald hill known as Elsworthy — following the contour high above the deep ravine of the Exe to find the shallow workings of what was planned as the trans-Exmoor canal. Leaving the waterway as it rounds Ware Ball, a right-to-roam takes you north into the great area of nothing toward Beckham (a birthplace of a hundred springs) before dropping into the East Lyn valley system to return via the bullet-scarred Second World War ruins of Larkbarrow Farm. (IF YOU ENJOY THIS POST CHECK OUT OUR EXMOOR WALKS PAGE HERE) Trees surround the old ruins at Larkbarrow on Exmoor Route Summary Start / Finish: Larkbarrow Corner (Exford/Porlock road) Waypoints: Larkbarrow Corner ➔ Ware Ball (Trans-Exmoor Canal) ➔ Beckham ➔ Larkbarrow Farm (Ruins) ➔ Larkbarrow Corner Fact File Basic Hike: From Larkbarrow Corner west around Ware Ball, north to Beckham (map ref: SS419807), north-east to Larkbarrow Farm, and back to start. Distance & Going: 5 miles. Fairly easy underfoot, though can be very boggy in places. Recommended Map: Ordnance Survey OL9 Exmoor. Local Pubs & Tea Rooms: The Exford White Horse Inn (Exford) — A classic country inn serving hearty local food, right on the River Exe. The Crown Inn (Exford) — Atmospheric 17th-century coaching inn offering great local ales and pub classics. Places to Stay: The White Horse Inn (Exford) — Comfortable riverside hotel rooms. Rest and Be Thankful (Wheddon Cross) — Traditional moorland accommodation nearby. Signpost on Brendon Common, Exmoor 2. Brendon Common & Oare Valley Circular There is only one way of combating a debilitating bout of other-people’s-grass-is-greener blues if you cannot afford to belt off to the tropics: get out into the countryside and enjoy winter walking at its very best. Stopping your car at Dry Bridge on a cold day, you might be extremely loathe to get out - but do so, and you'll enjoy one of the best hikes in a twelve-month. The empty moors surrounding Brendon Common Following the track north across Tippacott Ridge, you might, if you're lucky, come across one of the biggest herds of wild Exmoor ponies on the high moor. Descending down the hill to Brendon via Cross Lane, you enter an ancient community where, on a bitter day, you can almost feel the company of the 12th-century hermits of Bagawordia before tucking into a warming lunch at the local inn. The return route climbs steeply up through the wooded goyle of Deercombe to the remote, brooding farmstead at Shilstone — where you can imagine the likes of Heathcliff strutting about being moody — before crossing the featureless plain of Shilstone Hill back to your vehicle. The village of Brendon Route Summary Start / Finish: Dry Bridge (B3223 on Brendon Common) Waypoints: Dry Bridge ➔ Larkcombe Ford ➔ Tippacott Ridge ➔ Brendon Village ➔ Rockford Road ➔ Deercombe Goyle ➔ Shilstone Farm ➔ Shilstone Hill ➔ Dry Bridge Fact File Basic Hike: From the B3223 on Brendon Common, east to Larkcombe Ford then north to the village of Brendon — returning via the Rockford road then south to Shilstone and over Shilstone Hill to Dry Bridge. Distance & Going: 7 miles. Fairly easy going, with one steep climb. Recommended Map: Ordnance Survey OL9 Exmoor. Local Pubs & Tea Rooms: The Staghunters Inn (Brendon) — A traditional, welcoming moorland pub nestled in the valley, ideal for lunch. The Rockford Inn (Rockford) — A secluded riverside pub set deep in the Brendon Valley. Places to Stay: The Staghunters Inn (Brendon) — Characterful rooms set right on the walking route. Duchy House Bed & Breakfast (Brendon) — Cozy B&B accommodation in the heart of the valley. (YOU CAN FIND A LARGE SELECTION OF WALKS IN DEVON HERE) The cottages on the Green at Selworthy 3. Selworthy Beacon & Coastal Woods Circular Selworthy is the calendar-classic jewel in West Somerset’s crown. Home to a hundred hikes — each more picturesque, dramatic and ruggedly rural than the next — it offers deep, moody woods, swathes of high moorland heather, vast Exmoor panoramas, and wild salty glimpses of the Severn Sea. Scenic view from Selworthy's graveyard Starting from the church car park above the idyllic thatched cottages on The Green, a footpath leads north up wooded Selworthy Combe past Lady Acland’s Hut and the carved poetry of the Wind and Weather Hut. Reaching Selworthy Beacon yields an awesome 360-degree aspect taking in Wales, the Bristol Channel, the Quantocks, the Brendons, and Dunkery vast and looming to the south. Heading west along a stretch of the South West Coast Path above Bossington, you plunge back into dark forests of evergreen oak (Ilex) — the largest stand of Ilex in Britain — before the path deposits you back on The Green for a cream tea. Route Summary Start / Finish: Selworthy Church Car Park Waypoints: Selworthy Green ➔ Selworthy Combe ➔ Lady Acland's Hut ➔ Selworthy Beacon ➔ South West Coast Path ➔ Hurlestone Point / Ilex Forest ➔ Selworthy Green Fact File Basic Hike: From Selworthy up through the woods to Selworthy Beacon, returning via a more westerly route through the evergreen oak forest. Distance & Going: 6 miles. Steep in places. Recommended Map: Ordnance Survey OL9 Exmoor. Local Pubs & Tea Rooms: Periwinkle Tea Room (Selworthy Green) — Traditional thatched tea-room serving quintessential Exmoor cream teas on the green. The Bossington Tea Room (Bossington) — Charming nearby stop for home-baked cakes and light lunches. Places to Stay: Selworthy Lodge (Selworthy) — Peaceful guest accommodation close to the village green. The Cross Lane House (Allerford) — Boutique country hotel nestled in the neighbouring village. A track across Withypool Common 4. Withypool Common & The River Barle Withypool Common is a direct survival of the era when the Royal Forest of Exmoor was still an open waste, before the Inclosure Act of 1815. Today it remains an unspoilt haven of customary grazing rights, verderers, Court Leets, and sweeping river vistas. A rainbow photographed on Withypool Common Climbing around the spur of hill due north from Upper Willingford Bridge leads past Porchester’s Post to Brightworthy Burrows. At 428 metres, this offers a fine prospect of central southern Exmoor, with famous Landacre Bridge looking lonely in the valley of the Barle below. Dropping down to follow the clear waters of the river east into Withypool brings you to the village, where you can take refreshment before tackling the ascent of Withypool Hill. Passing the summit tumulus and an ancient stone circle, you rejoin the track heading south-west past Tudball’s Splats back to Willingford Bridge. (TAKE A LOOK AT OUR DARTMOOR WALKS PAGE HERE) One of the many views from Withypool Common Route Summary Start / Finish: Upper Willingford Bridge (map ref: SS325 815) Waypoints: Upper Willingford Bridge ➔ Porchester's Post ➔ Brightworthy Burrows ➔ River Barle Footpath ➔ Withypool Village ➔ Withypool Hill ➔ Tudball's Splats ➔ Upper Willingford Bridge Fact File Basic Hike: From Upper Willingford Bridge north to Brightworthy Burrows, down to the footpath along the Barle, east to Withypool, and south to return over Withypool Hill. Distance & Going: 9 miles. Fairly easy going, can be a bit squelchy after rain. Recommended Map: Ordnance Survey OL9 Exmoor. Local Pubs & Tea Rooms: The Royal Oak Inn (Withypool) — Historic 17th-century pub frequented by R.D. Blackmore and General Montgomery, serving great food and local ales. Withypool Village Shop & Tea Room — Excellent stop for hot tea, pasties, and cakes right by the bridge. Places to Stay: The Royal Oak Inn (Withypool) — Traditional pub rooms in the center of the village. Westermill Farm (Withypool) — Self-catering cottages set in a picturesque valley along the Barle. If you are planning a short break to tackle a few of these routes, central Exmoor fills up quickly during the warmer months. I've set up an interactive map where you can check live availability for local pub-inns, village B&Bs, and countryside stays across the moors: Frequently Asked Questions About Walking on Exmoor What is the best circular walk on Exmoor for pub stops? The Brendon Common & Oare Valley Circular (7 miles) and the Withypool Common & River Barle Walk (9 miles) both offer excellent mid-walk pub stops. In Brendon, you can pause at The Staghunters Inn or The Rockford Inn, while Withypool features the historic 17th-century Royal Oak Inn. Where do you park for the Selworthy Beacon circular walk? The best starting point for the Selworthy Beacon walk is the Selworthy Church car park (just above Selworthy Green). From here, well-marked footpaths lead north up through Selworthy Combe directly to the Beacon. Are these Exmoor walking routes dog-friendly? Yes, all four routes follow public rights of way across open moorland, woodland, and valley tracks. However, because free-roaming Exmoor ponies, red deer, and grazing sheep live on the commons year-round, dogs should be kept under strict close control or on a lead. What map do I need for walking central Exmoor? The recommended map for all four walks is the Ordnance Survey Explorer OL9 (Exmoor) 1:25,000 scale map, which clearly shows public rights of way, open access land, and moorland contours. (SEE MORE SOMERSET WALKS HERE) Stepping stones across the River Barle

Lion's Rock, near Sigiriya in Sri Lanka, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site dating back to the 5th century. It was once a royal palace and fortress of King Kasyapa. Here's a brief account of the visit I enjoyed recently with a group of colleagues from the British Guild of Travel Writers and our host from the Hayes & Jarvis specialist travel company. It was a busy day. As we drew near to this remarkable old volcanic plug, we began wondering why the car parks were so full. It was because this particular Friday was a Bank Holiday in Sri Lanka and a great many families like to take a pilgrimage to one of their island’s most iconic sites. Where to Stay Near Sigiriya Most visitors spend at least one or two nights in the Sigiriya area so they can climb Lion's Rock early in the morning before the heat builds and the crowds arrive. Staying nearby also makes it easy to explore Dambulla Cave Temple, Minneriya National Park and other highlights of Sri Lanka's Cultural Triangle. Historical Significance: Lion's Rock is famous for its historical importance. It served as a palace and fortress, and its remnants still stand today. If you are enjoying this post check out another of our Sri Lankan articles here The Climb: Climbing Lion's Rock can be challenging, with iron staircases and narrow walkways along the way. The Mirror Wall: The Mirror Wall, adorned with ancient graffiti, offers insights into the thoughts of past visitors. The Lion's Paws: At the Lion's Paws, you'll find the entrance to the palace, marked by monumental lion claws. The Summit: The summit offers a panoramic view of the surrounding landscape, showcasing the rock's significance as a strategic fortress. A Glimpse into the Past: Visiting Lion's Rock is like stepping back in time, experiencing the architectural and historical wonders of ancient Sri Lanka. Read our Sri Lankan Food Guide Why Sigiriya Leaves Such a Lasting Impression Some famous attractions never quite live up to the photographs. Sigiriya isn't one of them. Long before you reach the entrance, the great rock begins to dominate the landscape. Rising almost vertically from the surrounding forests, it seems to belong more to legend than reality. Even from a distance you can understand why an ambitious king chose it as the site of his extraordinary palace some fifteen centuries ago. The climb itself is surprisingly enjoyable, broken by terraces, gardens and fascinating glimpses into the ingenuity of those who built this remarkable fortress. There are moments when you stop simply to admire the engineering. There are others when you pause because the views stretching across the forests are too magnificent to hurry past. Standing on the summit, looking across the endless greenery of Sri Lanka's Cultural Triangle, I found myself wondering what it must have felt like for King Kasyapa to survey his kingdom from this extraordinary natural fortress. It is easy to understand why Sigiriya has become one of the defining images of Sri Lanka. Yet despite its fame, it never felt over-commercialised during my visit. There remained a genuine sense of wonder that no photograph can quite capture. As the sun set, I left Lion's Rock with a deeper appreciation for its historical and cultural significance. Sigiriya is a place that connects the present with an ancient past, making it a must-visit destination for history enthusiasts. Planning Your Visit to Sigiriya Sigiriya is one of those places that deserves more than a quick stop on a coach tour. Allowing a couple of days gives you time to climb the rock, visit nearby temples, enjoy a wildlife safari and experience the remarkable scenery of Sri Lanka's Cultural Triangle. Suggested Sigiriya Itinerary: Two Perfect Days in Sri Lanka's Cultural Triangle Many visitors try to squeeze Sigiriya into a whistle-stop coach tour, but I think that's a mistake. This remarkable part of Sri Lanka deserves at least two days. By staying locally you'll avoid the hottest part of the day, enjoy the area's quieter moments and have time to explore some of the country's finest historic and natural attractions. Day One Rise early and head for Sigiriya Lion Rock before the tropical heat builds. The climb is much more enjoyable in the cool of the morning and you'll be rewarded with breathtaking views across forests, lakes and distant mountains. After descending, spend time wandering through the beautifully designed water gardens and landscaped grounds before enjoying a leisurely Sri Lankan lunch in one of the local restaurants. The afternoon is ideal for visiting nearby villages or simply relaxing beside the pool with a cool drink after the morning's exertions. Day Two Begin with a visit to the magnificent Dambulla Cave Temple, another UNESCO World Heritage Site famous for its extraordinary collection of ancient Buddhist statues and colourful cave paintings. In the afternoon, head to Minneriya National Park, where you're likely to see wild elephants roaming freely across the grasslands. If you visit during the famous seasonal gathering, you'll witness one of Asia's great wildlife spectacles as hundreds of elephants congregate around the reservoir. Finish the day with dinner beneath the stars, enjoying another delicious Sri Lankan curry while reflecting on one of the island's most memorable regions. If You Have Three Days A third day allows you to explore at a much gentler pace. Visit the peaceful Pidurangala Rock, which offers one of the finest views of Sigiriya itself, browse local craft shops, or simply soak up the atmosphere of rural Sri Lanka. Many visitors also include Polonnaruwa, the island's beautifully preserved medieval capital, which lies within easy driving distance. Why Stay in Sigiriya? One of the biggest mistakes visitors make is trying to visit Sigiriya on a rushed day trip from Colombo or the south coast. Staying in the area for two or three nights lets you experience the Cultural Triangle at a far more relaxed pace. You'll avoid long drives, enjoy spectacular early morning scenery and have time to discover places that many hurried visitors never see. FAQ Section What is Sigiriya famous for? Sigiriya, often called Lion Rock, is an ancient rock fortress built by King Kashyapa in the fifth century. Today it is one of Sri Lanka's most famous archaeological sites and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. How difficult is the climb to Sigiriya? The climb involves several hundred steps and can be demanding in the heat, but most reasonably fit visitors complete it comfortably with plenty of stops. How long does it take to climb Sigiriya? Allow around two to three hours to climb the rock, explore the ruins and enjoy the views before descending. What are the Lion's Paws? The enormous stone paws are all that remain of a gigantic lion-shaped gateway that once guarded the entrance to the summit palace. They give Lion Rock its name. Is Sigiriya worth visiting? Absolutely. Its dramatic setting, ancient engineering, colourful frescoes and sweeping views make it one of the highlights of any trip to Sri Lanka.

While on a tour of Sri Lanka with Hayes & Jarvis we came across a most extraordinary food experience on the on the outskirts of Kandy . The Hela Bojun Hala isn't just a place to eat - it's a movement, a cooperative effort that celebrates traditional Sri Lankan cuisine while empowering the local women who bring these flavours to life. What Is Hela Bojun Hala? Hela Bojun Hala is more than a mere collection of food stalls; it is a project initiated by the Ministry of Agriculture to empower rural women through entrepreneurship in the food sector. The Hala, or hall, provides a space for these women to cook and sell traditional Sri Lankan foods, made from fresh, locally sourced ingredients. The initiative serves a dual purpose: preserving the culinary heritage of the island and offering economic opportunities to women. Staying in Kandy? Kandy is one of Sri Lanka's most rewarding destinations, combining sacred temples, beautiful gardens, colourful markets and some of the country's finest traditional food. If you're planning to explore the city at a relaxed pace, it's well worth spending at least a couple of nights here. IF YOU ENJOY THIS POST TAKE A LOOK AT OUR SRI LANKA FOOD GUIDE HERE A Wide Choice of Flavours As you step into the lively and vibrant environment of Hela Bojun Hala in Kandy, the air is rich with the soound of sizzling, the aroma of spices, and the warmth of the omnipresent Sri Lankan smile. The array of food displayed in this open-air market is a kaleidoscope of colors and textures, each stall telling a different story through its dishes. The Culinary Delights One of the star attractions at Hela Bojun Hala is the assortment of 'short eats'—a term endearingly used by locals to refer to a variety of snacks. These include the likes of: Kimbula Buns: Crocodile-shaped buns, playfully named for their appearance, which are sweet, soft, and perfect with a cup of Ceylon tea. Roti Varieties: From the pol roti (coconut roti) to the kottu (chopped roti mixed with vegetables and meats), each roti is a revelation of simple ingredients turned extraordinary. Rice Dishes: The quintessential Sri Lankan meal is a plate of rice with curries. Each serving at Hela Bojun is a testament to the country's rice culture, accompanied by an assortment of curries that range from the fiery hot to the subtly flavored. A Sustainable and Ethical Feast Eating at Hela Bojun Hala is not just a treat for the palate; it's a commitment to sustainable and ethical eating. The ingredients are organic and locally produced, ensuring that the food is not only healthy but also supports the island's agriculture. Moreover, the cooperative ensures that the profits go back to the women who have lovingly prepared the meals, making every bite a support to the local community. TAKE A LOOK AT ANOTHER OF OUT POSTS ABOUT SRI LANKA HERE More Than Just Somewhere to Eat One of the pleasures of travelling is discovering places that weren't necessarily on your original itinerary but end up becoming some of the most memorable parts of the holiday. Hela Bojun Hala was exactly that sort of place for me. At first glance it looks wonderfully uncomplicated. There are no flashy signs, celebrity chefs or expensive menus. Instead, there are smiling women preparing recipes that have been handed down through generations, using fresh local ingredients and traditional cooking methods. What impressed me most was the atmosphere. There was no sense that this had been created purely for tourists. Families, office workers and local residents queued happily alongside visitors, all enjoying food that reflected the everyday flavours of Sri Lanka rather than an international version adapted for foreign tastes. The cooperative itself deserves just as much attention as the cooking. Established to promote traditional food while providing opportunities for rural women, Hela Bojun Hala has become one of Sri Lanka's most successful community food initiatives. The first outlet opened in Kandy in 2006, and the idea has since spread to other parts of the country, helping preserve local recipes while supporting women entrepreneurs. For me, that's one of the reasons this place feels so special. You're not simply enjoying an inexpensive meal. You're helping to support a project that celebrates Sri Lankan culture, local agriculture and the remarkable skills of the women behind the counters. The Experience Beyond the Plate Dining at Hela Bojun Hala is an immersive experience. The women, with their stories and smiles, are as much a part of the meal as the food itself. It's not uncommon for a traveler to be invited to watch and sometimes even participate in the preparation of the dishes, learning about the spices and techniques that are indigenous to Sri Lankan cooking. The Sweet Conclusion No visit to Hela Bojun Hala is complete without indulging in the sweet treats. The variety of puddings, from the Watalappan, a coconut custard pudding, to the Kiri Pani, curd with palm syrup, ensures that your gastronomic journey ends on a high note. Taking the Journey We’d recommend you visit this place with an empty stomach . The cooperative is usually open from early morning to late evening, making it a perfect spot for any meal or a snack in between. Prices are reasonable, and the experience is priceless. In Conclusion Hela Bojun Hala stands as a beacon of Sri Lankan tradition and women's empowerment, a place where food is a celebration of life and community. For the traveler who seeks a connection with the places they visit, a meal at this cooperative in Kandy is a rich, fulfilling encounter with the true essence of Sri Lanka – its people, its land, and its boundless hospitality. Explore More of Kandy Hela Bojun Hala is only one of the reasons to spend time in Kandy. The city also makes an excellent base for visiting the Temple of the Tooth, the Royal Botanical Gardens at Peradeniya, tea country and many of Sri Lanka's cultural highlights. FAQ What is Hela Bojun Hala? Hela Bojun Hala is a government-supported network of food courts showcasing traditional Sri Lankan cooking. The stalls are run by local women, promoting authentic cuisine while supporting entrepreneurship and local agriculture. Is Hela Bojun Hala worth visiting? Absolutely. It offers visitors an opportunity to sample freshly prepared Sri Lankan dishes at very reasonable prices while enjoying an experience that is popular with local people as well as tourists. What food should I try at Hela Bojun Hala? Popular choices include egg hoppers, string hoppers, pol roti, kottu roti, coconut sambol, traditional curries, local sweets and fresh fruit juices. Where is Hela Bojun Hala? The original and best-known Hela Bojun Hala is in Kandy, although similar food halls have since opened in several other parts of Sri Lanka.

Sri Lanka Tourism News and Travel Advice Sri Lanka, one of the loveliest places I’ve ever visited, was hit by Cyclone Ditwa not long ago and, not surprisingly, it has featured widely across the international news-headlines. The headlines have moved on, but Sri Lanka remains one of the most rewarding countries I've ever visited. If you've been wondering whether now is the right time to go, here's why I'd still recommend it. Of course, my thoughts were with the friends and wonderful hosts and others I have met in that most magical of islands. However, it seems that the focus of the 24-hours news machine has not exactly helped… The Sri Lanka economy absolutely relies on tourism and these headlines are not helping as the main visitor season gets underway. Contacts of mine tell me the majority of country was not as badly affected as some of the news-stories would have us believe, which is why I am putting this post up to remind anyone whose ever fancied a visit that the Pearl of the Indian Ocean remains very much open for business. Where to Stay in Sri Lanka One of the joys of Sri Lanka is the sheer variety of places to stay. During my own travels I discovered everything from elegant colonial hotels and luxury beach resorts to intimate boutique guesthouses and family-run homestays where the welcome was every bit as memorable as the scenery. Whether you're dreaming of watching elephants in the national parks, riding the famous hill-country railway, relaxing beside the Indian Ocean or exploring ancient temples, you'll find accommodation to suit almost every budget. Why Sri Lanka Captured My Heart Some countries impress you with one outstanding attraction. Sri Lanka somehow manages to squeeze half a continent into an island little bigger than Ireland. One day you're wandering through ancient cities where monkeys clamber over thousand-year-old ruins. The next you're watching blue whales offshore, drinking tea in misty mountain plantations or sitting on a tropical beach wondering whether life could possibly become any more relaxed. What has stayed with me most, though, isn't simply the scenery. It's the people. Everywhere I travelled I found warmth, generosity and a quiet pride in sharing their remarkable island with visitors. Whether I was chatting with a waiter, a hotel owner or someone selling fruit by the roadside, there was always time for a smile and a conversation. That's one reason I felt so saddened when Cyclone Ditwa dominated international headlines. News reports naturally focused on the tragedy and destruction, but they couldn't possibly tell the whole story. Sri Lanka is far bigger than the odd weather event. Millions of people still depend upon tourism, countless hotels and guesthouses continue to welcome visitors and, as recovery has progressed, much of the island has continued to offer the unforgettable experiences that first made me fall in love with it. Recovery is ongoing in some areas, but tourism remains a vital part of the country's future. What the Travel Industry Is Saying About Sri Lanka After the Cyclone Insights from the British Guild of Travel Writers Here’s what the British Guild of Travel Writers has to say… “During our first convention in Sri Lanka last May, Sri Lanka and its people captured many of our hearts. Following our visit, and thanks in part to the coverage which many we generated, Sri Lanka was heading for record visitor numbers this year and this was to set them on the path to recovery following many difficult years. “Cyclone Ditwa hit the island, causing flooding and landslides. Whilst this has affected the country dramatically, news coverage has been less than accurate and this is resulting in many tourists, with winter sun and cultural and safari holidays booked, now cancelling. “The true story is that only the central parts hill country have been really badly hit, whilst the rest remains ready to welcome visitors. The area around Kandy and the tea country, which some of you visited and had a wonderful time in, is worst affected - cut off with landslides blocking most of the access routes, so aid is slow to get in. But whilst there has been some damage in other areas, the rest of the country is open. We were generously hosted in many places by Jetwing Hotels, the biggest hotel group in the country and one with a strong sustainability ethos. “ Owner Hiran Cooray’s message to you and the world is: “Everything is almost back to normal everywhere and the recovery process has been incredibly fast by our amazing armed forces and government working through the night to rescue, clear roads and landslides. We are thankful the tourists have stayed on and spreading joy across the world about their amazing travel experiences in Sri Lanka” On-the-Ground Travel Update from Sri Lanka First-Hand Impressions from Recent Arrivals And here is what John Vincent, Managing Director of Vector 7 Digital Marketing, has to say having just flown into Sri Lanka… “Taxis and roads to the beaches of the south, fine. Yes, some fields filled with water and some houses sitting sadly in mud, but no reasons to cancel plans. The island is filled with magic and the most diverse ecosystem on the planet. So hill travel may be on some different routes as one or two bridges will take time to fix. For you, what’s the hurry? “The less beaten track may introduce you to some incredible vistas and to meet some amazing people not on the normal route. Hearing from friends across the country, flooding is not an uncommon occurrence across Asia in the rainy season. “Landslides happen and their thoughts turn to solutions… More trees, better buildings, simple plans which stretch across the country into the future. Sri Lanka faces battles in these times: financial, crisis, lockdowns, fuel crises - but their biggest battle now is in the minds of other nations. Monsoons and rains: they happen, and we can meet these challenges head on, but the side by side action of reassurance can only be done gently. The strength of the nation to endure is wonderful, it is in us all, humans are fighters, we have to be. But the strength within us all is the ability to stand at each other’s sides and offer reassurance, help and friendship. So as many householders sweep the mud from their homes, rebuild their businesses and stand beside their neighbours bearing this burden together, I think we tourists questioning our plans to visit should sweep the mud from our eyes and look behind the news at a nation, capable and strong, and able to deliver access to beaches and stunning parks, temples, forts and lakes.” Why Travellers Should Keep Sri Lanka in Their Plans I can only echo those sentiments, and certainly look forward to my next visit to this most fabulous and friendly of destinations. Suggested Sri Lanka Itinerary If it's your first visit, I'd recommend allowing at least ten days. Colombo Sigiriya Kandy Tea Country Ella Yala National Park South Coast Galle FAQ Is Sri Lanka safe for tourists now? The majority of Sri Lanka's tourism infrastructure is operating normally, although conditions can vary in areas affected by severe weather. Before travelling, check the latest official advice and local conditions, particularly during the monsoon seasons. Is it still worth visiting Sri Lanka? Absolutely. Sri Lanka remains one of Asia's most rewarding destinations, combining beaches, wildlife, ancient history, tea plantations and exceptional hospitality in a relatively compact island. Where should you stay in Sri Lanka? That depends on your itinerary. Many visitors split their stay between the Cultural Triangle, the hill country and the southern beaches, giving them the chance to experience the island's remarkable variety.

There are certain extraordinary places around the Mediterranean that lodge in your memory long after you have packed your bags and returned home. Daios Cove, carved dramatically into the craggy sea cliffs of north-eastern Crete near Agios Nikolaos, is very much one of them. The resort’s architecture is a masterclass in subtlety and scale. Sculpted directly out of the surrounding rock face, the stone-clad villas and terraced pavilions cascade down a steep natural amphitheatre toward a private, horseshoe-shaped bay of translucent turquoise water. Whether you are swimming in the heated seawater infinity pool that seems to drop straight into the Aegean, enjoying fresh Cretan seafood caught earlier that morning, or simply watching the sunlight play across the private sandy beach, Daios Cove is an oasis of total calm. Here is a look back at one of the most stunning luxury escapes in the Greek Islands. Planning a Luxury Holiday in Crete? If Daios Cove has caught your imagination, it's worth spending a little time exploring the accommodation options around this beautiful stretch of north-eastern Crete. While the resort itself is one of the island's finest luxury escapes, the nearby area around Agios Nikolaos also offers stylish boutique hotels, family-run villas and apartments overlooking Mirabello Bay. Whether you're celebrating a special occasion or simply want a memorable base from which to explore eastern Crete, you'll find accommodation to suit a wide range of budgets. IF YOU ENJOY THIS POST CHECK OUT ANOTHER OF OUR ARTICLES ON CRETE Where once we Brits were herded into very basic concrete-built accommodation along the Spanish costas and fed dismal mass-produced paella, we now see a great increase in designer holidays spent in comfortable, tastefully designed, resorts in beautiful locations where chefs chase Michelin stars. The total and utter transformation of the Mediterranean holiday scene struck me recently as I swam across the plunge pool at the front of an architect-designed Cretan villa and gazed out across an azure sea at a distant town whose history stretched back more than 4000 years. Architectural Marvel: Carved into the Cretan Cliffs There are many posh and glitzy hotels and resorts spread around the Mediterranean nowadays, but perhaps Daios Cove is an exemplar. The luxury resort and its uniquely-designed stone villas nestles on a hillside on the northern coast of Crete. As the blurb says. “From every angle, the views are sublime: the calm turquoise sea in a quiet cove, spectacular verdant slopes, lush terraced gardens, a yellow crescent of private beach and a wide expanse of azure sky.” Journalists who do a lot of travel writing get used to applying a pinch of salt to such marketing-speak, but in the case of Daios Cove I’d say that not a word is exaggerated or out of place. So I’ll go on quoting for just a minute… “Daios Cove is minimalist, modern, chic and sumptuous with a carefully created designer style - and its elegant and sophisticated architecture has been crafted from the natural environment. Sculpted out of the hillside rock, every stone has been traditionally hand-carved and reclaimed. As a result, Daios Cove blends beautifully into its picturesque rural surroundings.” Private Bay and Infinity Pool Overlooking the Aegean I am more fussy than most about the way things look and am certainly not afraid to write criticism when I see some concrete hotel horror wrecking a Mediterranean mountainside or a ghastly caravan park (why can’t they make caravans look more attractive?) despoiling a Cornish cove. But credit where credit is due - although it’s big and totally dominates its wild and natural Cretan inlet, I have to say that the owners have designed Daios Cove beautifully. The place has something of the James Bond villain’s lair about it - and I mean that in a positive way. While its natural stone villas blend in with the bare rock of the steep coastal hillsides, there are all manner if high-tech things going on - like not one but two funicular railways which take guests effortlessly up and down the contours, underground spa treatment centres, golf-buggy transport services which speed silently around the hidden tunnels and roadways of the resort. It’s all very plush indeed and the villa interiors reflect the well-designed theme. The large example I stayed in was right at the top of resort so, as I swam in my plunge pool, I could enjoy vistas of the north Crete coast stretching beyond the ancient port of Aghios Nikolaos. This is the nearest town and is built around the picturesque Lake Voulismeni - a kind of inner harbour situated under vertical cliffs right in the middle of the community. Aghios Nikolaos is a lively shopping and dining destination by day that turns into a buzzing entertainment centre by night. With its cafés, tavernas and restaurants, it’s always popular with tourists. Crete is the biggest of all the Greek isles and the fifth largest island in the Mediterranean. It was the centre of Minoan civilisation, and you’ll find ancient frescoes, imposing fortresses and fascinating Greek mythology everywhere among its pretty fishing harbours and mountain villages. The friendly staff at the Daios resort can arrange trips to such places and also boat excursions to various locations along the coast. The best known of these is the island fortress of Spinalonga, which we reached aboard a big sailing catamaran that came to pick us up at the resort. IF YOU ENJOY THIS POST CHECK OUT ANOTHER OF OUR ARTICLES ABOUT CRETE - THIS ONE IS ABOUT THE FAMOUS ZORBA BEACH Built in 1579 during Venetian occupation, Spinalonga has been the setting for various film and TV productions, and as the location for the best-selling novel The Island, by Victoria Hislop. Its history is intriguing: it was turned into a fortress by Venetians, has been used as a refuge by the Ottomans and was one of the last active leper colonies in Europe. We also enjoyed a short trip up to the mountain village of Kritsa, where the Panagia Kera church boasts Byzantine frescoes. It’s a touristy little community clinging to the steep slops of the mountains, but a quick turn around its narrow streets on a Sunday morning was a refreshing local tonic after a few days living the high life at Daios Cove. The Flavours of Crete: Fine Dining and Local Ingredients We’d been indulging ourselves on gourmet cuisine at the resort’s four exquisite restaurants, as well as enjoying light snacks at the beach bar. The food was exceptional in all the resort’s eateries - there was plenty of fantastic local seafood, as well as Greek tapas and Cretan specialties. WE HAVE ANOTHER CRETE ARTICLE - READ ABOUT THE Lasithi Plateau Crete’s seasons can roughly be split into two - there’s a dry and hot summer from May to October, which is perfect for sun-worshippers. In the high season — July and August — it’s not unusual for temperatures to reach between 30°C and 35°C. Then there is a milder winter, from November to April, which can be rainy at times and cooler at night. Even in November, however, temperatures can climb to 20°C. Has Mediterranean Travel Ever Been Better? I first travelled to the Mediterranean long before luxury resorts became fashionable. Back then, many package holidays consisted of concrete apartment blocks, overcooked buffet food and swimming pools that looked as though they had been designed by the local council's parks department. How things have changed. The cleverest modern resorts don't simply provide luxury. They create a genuine sense of place. Daios Cove could never exist just anywhere. It belongs to this dramatic stretch of the Cretan coast, where rugged cliffs tumble into impossibly clear water and every terrace seems to frame another postcard view across Mirabello Bay. Of course, not everyone wants this level of indulgence. Some of my happiest holidays have involved little more than a whitewashed room above a village taverna, a fishing harbour and a glass of local wine. Greece has always been wonderfully democratic like that. Whether you spend fifty pounds a night or five hundred, the warmth of the people and the beauty of the landscape remain exactly the same. But every so often it's rather pleasant to experience somewhere that gets almost everything right. What impressed me most wasn't the luxury itself. It was the attention to detail. Nothing felt showy or overdone. Instead, the architecture blended naturally into the hillside, the staff were quietly efficient and everywhere you looked there was another reminder that the real star of the show wasn't the hotel at all. It was Crete. I’d be happy to visit Daios Cove in either season, especially now that in usual times there are daily direct flights to Crete from Bristol Airport. It’s an extremely well thought out resort that pulls off the trick of feeling both homely and exotic at the same time. As I say, it is a prime example of how modern Mediterranean tourism has come of age and shaken off that old fashioned package holiday experience. The place is first class - which is why people like Saudi princes and well known footballers holiday there. But it is also affordable - and it’s hard to beat a combination like that anywhere… FACT FILE For further details and to book visit www.daioscove.com or call +44 20 3036 0257. Residents’ Club details for Suite & Villa guests can be found at https://www.daioscovecrete.com/residents-club Using Daios Cove as a Base for Exploring Eastern Crete One of the pleasures of staying here is that you're not confined to the resort. Within easy reach are the lively harbour town of Agios Nikolaos, the atmospheric island fortress of Spinalonga, the mountain village of Kritsa and the remarkable Lasithi Plateau. It's perfectly possible to spend a week here combining lazy days beside the sea with fascinating excursions into one of Greece's richest historic landscapes. Frequently Asked Questions About Visiting Daios Cove, Crete Where is Daios Cove located in Crete? Daios Cove Luxury Resort & Villas is situated in a private, secluded bay near Vathi on the north-eastern coast of Crete. It is roughly 10 to 15 minutes by car from the picturesque town of Agios Nikolaos and about an hour's drive from Heraklion International Airport (HER). What makes the location of Daios Cove so unique? The resort is built into the steep, natural amphitheatre of a private cove. The stone architecture was hand-carved using rock excavated directly from the hillside during construction, allowing the entire complex to blend seamlessly into the wild Cretan landscape. What amenities and dining options are available at Daios Cove? Daios Cove features multiple gourmet restaurants and bars serving Cretan and Mediterranean cuisine, a 2,500m² wellness spa, a heated seawater infinity pool, water sports, and direct access to its own private sandy beach.

Explore the Hidden Gem of Crete: The Lasithi Plateau Years ago we drove up into the mountains of central Crete and were amazed to come across a dead flat plain among the peaks. What was so surprising about this place was the number of windmills used for helping to irrigate the rich soils. I am told that many of these have since disappeared, but that some still survive. I hope so. It was one of the most magical places I have visited in the Greek islands…. Windmills on the Lasithi Plateau Where to Stay When Visiting the Lasithi Plateau Most people explore the Lasithi Plateau as part of a wider holiday in Crete. It's an easy drive from the resorts around Hersonissos and Malia, while Agios Nikolaos and Heraklion also make excellent bases for a day trip into the mountains. If, like me, you enjoy taking your time and discovering the quieter side of an island, it is well worth staying nearby for a night or two. That allows you to experience the plateau in the cool of the morning, enjoy lunch in one of the traditional villages and visit the legendary Cave of Zeus without feeling rushed. Crete, the largest of the Greek islands, is known for its diverse landscapes, ancient ruins, and vibrant culture. Yet, tucked away in its interior lies a truly unique gem — the Lasithi Plateau, a high plain blanketed with hundreds of windmills that capture both the island’s natural beauty and its rural ingenuity. If you enjoy this article you might also like the piece about the Imbros Gorge in Crete. The Windmill Wonderland of Lasithi Plateau 🌬️ Situated 800 meters above sea level in the Dikti Mountains, the Lasithi Plateau stands out for its vast open fields, fertile soil, and a history of wind power that stretches back centuries. In the past, thousands of iconic white-sailed windmills dotted this fertile high plain, used to draw water from underground wells to irrigate crops. These windmills became emblematic of the area, symbols of the ingenuity of local farmers who adapted to the harsh climate by harnessing the island’s abundant winds. A Step Back in Time: Windmills and Agriculture 🌾 Although modern irrigation systems have replaced many of these windmills, quite a few still remain — monuments to Crete's agricultural heritage. Driving through the plateau, you are greeted by the sight of these windmills, their skeletal frames and occasional intact sails forming a picturesque contrast against the expansive blue sky and the lush, green landscape. Some of the windmills have been carefully restored, their sails spinning once more, providing a glimpse of the plateau's past way of life. IF YOU ENJOY THIS POST CHECK OUT OUOR ARTICLE ON THE ZORBA BEACH IN WESTERN CRETE HERE Explore Villages and Cretan Hospitality 🏡 Exploring the Lasithi Plateau offers more than just windmill views. The area is dotted with quaint villages like Tzermiado, where traditional stone houses and friendly locals invite you to experience authentic Cretan hospitality. Visit a family-run taverna to taste local delicacies like dakos or staka, paired with raki distilled from the harvests made possible by the plateau's rich soil. And don’t miss the Dikteon Cave, a legendary site said to be the birthplace of Zeus, adding a mythical dimension to your journey. Why Visit the Lasithi Plateau? 🌍 I have visited many memorable places in Greece over the years, but the Lasithi Plateau remains one that often drifts back into my thoughts. Perhaps it's the mountain air, perhaps it's those remarkable windmills, or perhaps it's simply the sense that this is a corner of Crete where life still moves at its own gentle pace. If your holiday allows just one escape from the beaches, make it this one. Why the Lasithi Plateau Has Stayed With Me There are places that impress because they are dramatic, and there are others that quietly work their way into your affections without making any fuss. The Lasithi Plateau belongs firmly in the second category. You spend so much of a holiday in Crete with the sea beside you that it's easy to forget the island has a mountainous heart. Then, almost without warning, the road begins to climb through olive groves and rocky hillsides before suddenly opening onto this astonishing plain, sitting high among the peaks as though someone had laid a giant green carpet across the mountains. What struck me most wasn't simply the windmills. It was the feeling that life here still revolved around the seasons rather than the tourist timetable. Farmers were tending their fields, old men chatted outside cafés and fruit trees seemed to bow beneath the weight of their harvest. Even though many of the famous white-sailed windmills have disappeared over the years, enough remain to remind you why this landscape became one of the iconic images of Crete. It is easy to imagine the sails turning in the mountain breeze, pumping water that transformed this fertile plain into one of the island's most productive farming areas. Thousands once covered the plateau, creating one of the world's earliest large-scale wind-powered irrigation systems. The Lasithi Plateau may not have the glamour of Crete's beaches, but for anyone who enjoys discovering the island's quieter places, it offers something just as memorable. Planning Your Visit to the Lasithi Plateau The plateau makes an easy full-day excursion if you're staying in northern Crete, but there's enough to keep you occupied for much longer. Combine your visit with the Cave of Zeus, traditional mountain villages, local tavernas and some of the island's finest scenic drives. If you're touring Crete by car, this is one of those places that rewards anyone prepared to leave the coast behind. FAQ Is the Lasithi Plateau worth visiting? Absolutely. The plateau offers a completely different side of Crete, with mountain scenery, traditional villages, historic windmills and some of the island's richest agricultural land. It's one of the best day trips if you want to escape the busy coastal resorts. Where should you stay to visit the Lasithi Plateau? Many visitors stay in Heraklion, Hersonissos or Agios Nikolaos and drive to the plateau. Those wanting a quieter experience can also find small hotels and guesthouses in the surrounding villages, making it easy to explore at a relaxed pace. Can you drive around the Lasithi Plateau? Yes. A circular road links the villages around the plateau, making it one of Crete's most enjoyable scenic drives. Allow plenty of time to stop for photographs, local food and visits to attractions such as the Cave of Zeus.

Tucked away on the north eastern shore of Crete is Stavros, a modest beach known largely for its role in the film "Zorba the Greek." While the movie captured the imagination of viewers globally, the real Stavros offers a more subdued and authentic experience, far from the embellishments of Hollywood. Stavros Beach, otherwise known as the Zorba Beach, Crete Stavros' beach features soft sands and clear waters, making it a practical choice for families. Its calm, shallow bay ensures a safe environment for swimming. Efforts by locals have maintained the beach’s natural state, keeping it relatively untouched by commercial tourism. Travel writer Martin Hesp at Stavros Beach Where to Stay Near Zorba the Greek Beach If you're planning to visit Stavros Beach, I'd recommend spending at least two or three nights in the area rather than making a rushed day trip. Chania's beautiful Venetian harbour is only about 20 minutes away and makes an excellent base, while there are also smaller hotels, apartments and family-run guesthouses much closer to Stavros itself. Whether you're looking for a luxury resort overlooking the sea, a simple apartment for a walking holiday or somewhere close to Chania Airport for an early flight home, there are plenty of accommodation options nearby. Zorba the Greek," a novel penned by Nikos Kazantzakis, was first published in 1946,. The narrative delves into the profound themes of life, freedom, and the search for meaning, all through the vibrant character of Alexis Zorba. The story unfolds through the eyes of an unnamed narrator, often considered a reflection of Kazantzakis himself. He meets Alexis Zorba, a middle-aged man with an insatiable zest for life, who becomes his companion. The narrator, a man of intellect and introspection, contrasts starkly with Zorba's exuberant and spontaneous nature. The novel is as much about the relationship between these two men as it is about the richly depicted Greek landscape and culture. Zorba's character, representing the physical and passionate aspects of life, is a foil to the narrator's more philosophical and contemplative disposition. One of the central themes of the novel is the exploration of existential questions. Through various experiences, ranging from love affairs to business ventures, the characters grapple with the fundamental aspects of human existence. Zorba, with his love for dance, music, and the simple pleasures of life, offers a stark contrast to the narrator's more reserved and analytical approach to life's mysteries. Kazantzakis uses Zorba to convey a message of embracing life's experiences with fervour and spontaneity. Zorba's character becomes synonymous with the idea of living in the present, unburdened by the past and unconcerned about the future. His famous dance scene symbolises this philosophy, showcasing an unbridled expression of joy and freedom. "Zorba the Greek" is not just a narrative about two men but a philosophical exploration that challenges readers to ponder their approach to life. The novel remains a beloved work, capturing the imagination of readers worldwide with its vivid portrayal of Greek culture, its exploration of existential themes, and its unforgettable protagonist, Alexis Zorba. Away from the beach, Stavros is a gateway to Cretan culture. The village maintains a quiet charm, with local tavernas where traditional Cretan meals are served. These dishes, often made from ingredients sourced nearby, offer a taste of the region's culinary traditions. The significance of Stavros extends beyond the beach. The area is surrounded by sites of historical interest, including Minoan ruins, and the landscape around Stavros is marked by rugged terrain that appeals to those looking for exploration and adventure. As evening approaches, the setting sun against the mountain creates a picturesque scene. While there might be occasional music and dance, reminiscent of the film's famous scene, the atmosphere is typically more reserved, inviting visitors to enjoy a quiet evening. Stavros represents a blend of natural beauty and historical significance, but without the overtones of a tourist hotspot. It’s a place where visitors can find a gentle pace, local flavour, and a connection to Crete's past. Planning Your Visit to Stavros Beach Most visitors combine Stavros with Chania Old Town, the Akrotiri Peninsula and some of western Crete's best beaches. If you're hiring a car you'll have complete freedom to explore, but staying locally means you can enjoy the beach early in the morning or in the evening after many day-trippers have gone. Check the latest hotel prices and availability before you travel. Why Stavros Still Feels Like the Real Crete There are beaches in Crete that have become almost victims of their own success. Coach parties arrive before breakfast, selfie sticks wave in the air and every square yard of sand seems to have a paid-for sunbed. Stavros isn't quite like that. Perhaps it's because people still come here for a reason that has nothing to do with Instagram. They come because somewhere in the back of their minds is Anthony Quinn shuffling across the sand with that unforgettable grin, arms outstretched, showing us that life should be embraced rather than endured. I sat for quite a while watching children paddling in the shallows while elderly Greek men argued gently over coffee in the shade. Goats wandered across the hillside as though they had absolutely no interest in cinema history whatsoever. The mountain behind the bay looked exactly as it did sixty years ago. That's the lovely thing about Stavros. It isn't pretending to be a film set. It's simply a working Cretan village that happens to have become part of cinema history. Come for Zorba if you like. Stay because it's a thoroughly delightful corner of Crete. Frequently Asked Questions Where was Zorba the Greek filmed? Many scenes from the 1964 film Zorba the Greek were filmed around the Chania region of Crete. The famous final dance scene starring Anthony Quinn and Alan Bates was filmed on Stavros Beach on the Akrotiri Peninsula. Can you visit the beach where Zorba the Greek was filmed? Yes. Stavros Beach is open to visitors and remains one of Crete's most recognisable film locations. Fans still come to stand where the famous Sirtaki dance was performed. Where is Stavros Beach? Stavros Beach is on the Akrotiri Peninsula, about 20 minutes by car from Chania and only a short drive from Chania International Airport, making it an easy day trip. Is Stavros Beach worth visiting? Absolutely. The sheltered bay has soft sand, clear turquoise water and a dramatic mountain backdrop. It is popular with families, swimmers and film enthusiasts alike. Why is Stavros Beach famous? The beach became world famous after the unforgettable closing scene of Zorba the Greek, when Anthony Quinn danced the Sirtaki against the backdrop of the distinctive mountain overlooking the bay. Is Stavros Beach good for swimming? Yes. The bay is sheltered from strong waves, with shallow, calm water that makes it ideal for swimming and paddling, especially for families. How do you get to Stavros Beach? Most visitors hire a car from Chania or the airport. Local buses and organised excursions also operate from Chania during the tourist season. What else is there to see nearby? The nearby city of Chania is famous for its Venetian harbour, narrow old streets and excellent restaurants. The Akrotiri Peninsula also has monasteries, scenic viewpoints and several attractive beaches. Where should you stay to visit Stavros Beach? Most visitors stay in Chania, around 20 minutes away, where there's a huge choice of hotels, apartments and restaurants. If you prefer somewhere quieter, you'll also find accommodation around Stavros itself, giving easy access to the beach and the Akrotiri Peninsula. How long should you spend at Stavros Beach? Although some people visit as a half-day excursion from Chania, it's worth allowing a full day or staying nearby for two or three nights so you can explore the surrounding coastline, local tavernas and nearby attractions without rushing.

Exploring Sri Lanka by Road: 1,000 Miles of Magic With diesel at 30 pence a litre you can afford to go a long way. And that is exactly what I’ve been doing since we last spoke. I have travelled well over 2000 kilometres on the roads of hot, humid, mad, bad, beautiful and totally magical Sri Lanka. Wildlife, Landscapes and the Wonders of Sri Lanka There have been hills and mountains, forests and jungles, flat-lands and seascapes. There have been elephants, monkeys, tuktuks, buffalo, a million feral dogs, goats, lizards and a single, lonely, Sri Lankan black sloth bear. Surviving the Roads of Sri Lanka: Traffic as Theatre But above all there’s been humanity. Teeming humanity, writ large out on the long and winding roads, somehow avoiding one another in an endless perilous traffic dance. There was enough potential danger along any one of those 1000 miles to make an English driver faint with fear. But somehow it all works and I’m not driving anyway. Instead I’ve been sitting in the front of a bus watching the whole spectacle ebb and flow through a giant windscreen. Planning a road trip route across the island? Check live room rates and availability for your main stops. How to Drive in Sri Lanka: Embracing Road Anarchy If I had to, I could drive with relative safety on Sri Lanka’s roads, now that I’ve been studying the anarchy of it for days. The theory seems to go something like this… Don’t think of a road as something filled with rules and laws, instead regard it as a fluid river. You go with the flow - you avoid anything that’s stationary or solid and dangerous, just like a canoeist would avoid a rock in rapids. Bend, be adaptable. Above all, go with the flow. Sri Lanka’s Legendary Buses and Their Drivers And certainly avoid the massive hulking buses which plough through the luxuriant countryside like battleships on wheels. The huge old Ashok-Leyland buses, built in India, are the undisputed kings of these highways. Tarted up with enough bling and chrome to make a demented rapper happy, they roar through rainforests and across savannahs belching out great clouds of black smoke as they go - and always they are filled with calm and smiling folk who pay no notice whatsoever of the constant perils and dangers along the way. If I was in charge of recruiting the astronauts who will one day go to Mars and beyond, I’d choose Sri Lankan bus drivers. They must be among the coolest, imperturbable, fearless, dudes alive. The People of Sri Lanka: Humanity at Its Best But it wasn’t them I wanted to talk about. It’s the passengers, and the people lining the myriad streets and country lanes of this vibrant and extraordinary island. I love them. I love their cheerfulness and politeness. I love their courtesy and calmness, their fortitude and their ability to, seemingly at least, be resigned to whatever fate may have in store. Modern Sri Lanka: A Nation Still Rebuilding There is real poverty here. The country went bankrupt a few years ago, to the extent that they ran out medicines, there were food shortages and no fuel at the pumps. Things have become a lot better, but life is still tough. A man I was talking to an hour ago was telling me about just how tough. He has a reasonable job and he works hard, but is lucky to take home £125 a month. Not much for his family of four, even though life here is cheap. Make-Do-and-Mend in the Sri Lankan Countryside Make-do-and-mend. That’s the motto here and you see it everywhere. Vehicles that would long ago have gone to the scrapheap in Britain are still in use and if a great many of them seem way beyond decrepitude it doesn’t matter quite so much because you rarely see anyone doing over 40 mph. The Peaceful Heart of North-Western Sri Lanka Anyway, once you’ve had enough of the anarchy of the highway you can pull off and go down one of the tiny lanes which thread between the villages, passing through rainforests and past farms and the endless lakes which are a feature of central north western Sri Lanka. In some ways this region reminds me of the Westcountry. By which I mean, it is highly rural and peaceful. The monster buses don’t belch much around here - very little seems to be in a hurry - indeed I’d say it is one of the most tranquil places I have ever visited. Faces of the Sri Lankan Countryside Although the place is agrarian in the extreme, there are people everywhere. Schoolchildren in sparkling white uniforms, old men looking after lazy cows that wander down the middle of the road, smartly dressed office girls on their way home from work, languid young blades who loll about on mopeds... The 40 mile long lane we drove down in the gloaming yesterday evening was one of the most beautiful roads I’ve been on. I loved every mile of it. I loved the gentle scenery and most of all I loved the humanity and the handsome smiling faces. Reflections on War and Peace in Sri Lanka And I loved all this in the knowledge that only 20 years ago this was a killing ground. The Sri Lankan civil war was at its height and this was one of the worst-hit areas. You can still see bullet holes on the buildings and burned out ruins and you still pass through police checkpoints. And therein, to me at least, lies the greatest mystery of them all. The great riddle of humanity. The question that asks: how can we be so damned cruel and nasty, and yet so kind and gentle and loving? Perhaps it’s a question that will never be answered, but we can only hope that, for all our sakes, someone will work out the riddle soon. FAQ SECTiON ON SRI LANKA Q: Is it easy to travel around Sri Lanka by road? A: Traveling by road is one of the best ways to see Sri Lanka, but traffic can be hectic. While driving yourself is possible, many visitors hire a driver or travel by private tour bus and local train to navigate the busy roads comfortably. Q: How much does transport cost in Sri Lanka? A: Road travel in Sri Lanka is very affordable. Public transport and fuel costs are low compared to Western standards, making long-distance road trips across the island very budget-friendly. Q: How many days do you need for a Sri Lanka road trip? A: A typical road trip itinerary takes between 10 to 14 days. This allows enough time to travel between key destinations like Colombo, Kandy, Cultural Triangle sites, national parks, and southern coastal beaches without feeling rushed. Q: Should you book accommodation in advance for a road trip in Sri Lanka? A: Yes, booking your main stays ahead of time ensures you secure the best boutique hotels, heritage guesthouses, and beachfront resorts, especially during peak travel seasons (December to April and July to August).

about,Discover the lesser-known side of Sri Lanka on an unforgettable journey through ancient temples, wildlife-rich national parks, colonial towns and spectacular Indian Ocean coastlines. A peacock struts its stuff at Trincomalee Magic moments… That’s not only the name of a famous Perry Como song, it also represents a kind of ambition. At least for some of us. The kind of people who would like to enjoy at least one magic moment every time they leave their front door. Magic moments are partly what these articles are about and they are certainly a thing most of us want to experience while we are travelling or on holiday. Exploring Northern Sri Lanka Which is why I was thinking about the concept the other day, sitting on a bus as it trundled into the northern half of Sri Lanka. The lovely island - sometimes known as the Teardrop of the Indian Ocean - is a game of two halves. Southern and central Sri Lanka represents one of the most beautiful and scenic places on Earth, but the north is nowhere near as pretty. Not only is much of it flat, but you are also treated to regular reminders of the recent civil war in which an estimated 80,000 to 100,000 people died. So you need magic moments in such a place, and fortunately Sri Lanka is full of them. Discovering Trincomalee: Sherlock Holmes and Swami Rock The first dose of enchantment hit me after we had driven across the isle to its east coast and the exotic old seaside town of Trincomalee. I had wanted to visit this jolly-sounding port ever since reading about the obscure Atkinson brothers of Trincomalee, who are mentioned in a Sherlock Holmes story. An example of what Sherlockians call the “casual reference” or “untold tale” where either Holmes or Watson alludes to a case that the reader never actually learns the details of. Planning to spend a few days on Sri Lanka’s east coast? “From time to time,” writes Watson in a Scandal in Bohemia, “I heard some vague account of his doings: of his summons to Odessa in the case of the Trepoff murder, of his clearing up of the singular tragedy of the Atkinson brothers at Trincomalee…” So for years I’ve wondered: what was the singular tragedy of the Atkinson brothers and where on earth is Trincomalee? Then, suddenly a couple of weeks ago, there I was, wandering through its streets. Not that the Sherlockian puzzle absorbed me for long - because suddenly I was walking up through vast trees towards one of the most holy headlands to be found anywhere in the Tropics. Wild deer, monkeys and feral dogs strolled among the crowds of pilgrims and worshippers as though the whole colourful shenanigans had gone on for many centuries. Which it has. The Magic of Swami Rock and Koneswaram Temple But even after the extreme magic and mystery of the place had begun to lose its first novelty shock, I was to splutter with delight at the sight of a male peacock fanning its tail-feathers at the edge of a sea-cliff. Somehow, there above the Indian Ocean, amid the mad frenetic sights and sounds and the heady aromas of incense, there was this mystical bird posing like some massively confident social media influencer, on the edge of a rock somewhat inevitably known as Lover’s Leap. Colourful and exotic in the extreme, nowhere in Europe would you ever see anything like this. The peninsula is known as Swami Rock and it plays host to the Koneswaram Temple (also known as "Temple of the Thousand Pillars”), which is one of Sri Lanka's most revered Hindu shrines, with origins tracing back to before 400 BCE. Apparently visitors often talk about the temple’s overwhelming sense of awe and spiritual energy. The air is filled with mesmerising sounds of chanting, drums, horns and bells, particularly during the daily pooja (prayer service) which was taking place while we were there. Bare-chested men ran about lighting candles and scattering petals. For me, a non-believer on the religious front, it was a powerful experience. A Luxury Stay at Amaranthé Bay Resort & Spa I was in need of a drink by the time we reached the lovely Amaranthé Bay Resort & Spa just north of town. Located on the banks of a palm strewn estuary this is an excellent luxury getaway - my large suite had its own sunken jacuzzi and we enjoyed a truly excellent dinner in the large air-conditioned restaurant. It all comes very well packaged indeed at the present nightly rate of less than £90 a night (per couple, with B&B). The Long Road to Jaffna via Elephant Pass Our travels next day proved to be less than magical. We drove for hours to the far north of Sri Lanka into Tamil country and the regional capital, Jaffna. Which actually is a magical city, but the road to it can be rather drab in tropical rain. The only stop we made was at Elephant Pass, a place on a low causeway where several crucial battles were fought during the civil war. This site controls access to the Jaffna Peninsula. During one skirmish between the Sri Lankan Army and the LTTE (Tamil Tigers) a heavily armoured bulldozer was loaded with explosives and set rolling towards the defending government troops - a death machine that was reportedly halted by the heroic actions of a Corporal Gamini Kularatne who gave his life to save many 100s of his comrades. The giant relic in the small memorial park acts as a sober reminder of this terrible war. A reminder which I for one needed. I say that because the people of Sri Lanka are the friendliest and happiest bunch I’ve encountered anywhere in the world, making it hard to believe that they were killing one another until relatively recently (the war ended in 2009). Jaffna: A City of Surprising Friendliness Which, in a way, makes Jaffna one big large loud and frenetic kind of magic moment. It is a rather lovely little city and I enjoyed staying at The Thinnai Hotel, located close to the centre of town. Exploring the Tamil north? Browse accommodation options across Jaffna. Given the loss of life here during the conflict I thought there’d be the scars of war everywhere, but if you hadn’t been told there’d been a war you wouldn’t have known it. The city is as friendly a place as I’ve visited and I felt completely safe walking around, visiting the markets and talking to local people. The Healing Springs of Keerimalai Naguleswaram Temple We were taken on various excursions around the hot flat coastal region, riddled with lagoons, islands and bays. One magic moment place for me was the Keerimalai Naguleswaram Temple, an ancient and highly revered Hindu site - one of the Pancha Ishwarams, the five historic Shiva temples on the island, holding immense religious significance for Hindu devotees worldwide. Why so impressed by yet another temple? Because of the people. It was a blisteringly hot Sunday morning and this coastal site was filled with local folk who’d come to bathe in the Keerimalai Springs, which are renowned for their supposed healing powers. The holy ponds have been carved out of stone just feet from the waves of the Indian Ocean, and the temple area has separate bathing areas for men and women. Keerimalai Naguleswaram Temple, an ancient and highly revered Hindu site The whole place had a happy holiday feel to it and, I noted, there was not a single doffing of a cap to any kind of commercialisation or the kind of omnipresent branding we endure in the West nowadays. I was going to say there was a wonderful innocence to the place, except for one thing. I noticed a surprising number of people in rickety homemade wheelchairs and the like. They had lost lower limbs - a fact which is perhaps not surprising in an area where land-mine-clearance is still going on years after the conflict. The Donkeys of Mannar Peninsula The flat northwest coast (famed for its delicious red shrimp) stretches 50 miles south of Jaffna down to the Mannar Peninsula, Sri Lanka’s closest point to its giant neighbour, India. The seafood farms off the north west coast of Sri Lanka There used to be a gravel bank which linked the two countries across the shallow Palk Strait (now underwater but you can still see it from the air). A ferry service was in regular use linking train services from Madras to Colombo, but a 1964 cyclone not only killed many people, but also put paid to regular services. The link no longer exists (replaced by a high speed ferry to Jaffna) leaving the Mannar Peninsula in a peaceful limbo for its human residents and its donkeys. I say donkeys because this peninsula (and its surrounding area) is famous for them. Some 3000 of the little chaps live wild and, needless to say, they have been having a rough time in recent decades. Which is why we visited the Mannar Donkey Clinic and Education Centre, a small family-run charity manned by some of the most passionate animal-lovers it’s been my pleasure to meet. The team treat emaciated and injured animals and return them to the wild and also run numerous educative programmes. When I say tiny, by the way, I mean that the donkeys are the size of a large-to-medium sized family dog rather than the larger cousins we used to see on British beaches. Wildlife Wonders in Wilpattu National Park Talking of animals living in the wild, our next visit was to the massive Wilpattu National Park, Sri Lanka’s largest protected area, sprawling over 131,000 hectares. Its name, "Land of Lakes," derives from the numerous "villu" – natural, sand-rimmed water basins that create unique ecosystems crucial for the park's diverse wildlife, especially during dry seasons. Heading on safari? Compare luxury tented camps and coastal resort prices nearby. Wilpattu is renowned for its leopards and also hosts many other species, including the elusive Sri Lankan sloth bear, elephants, spotted deer, sambar, and mugger crocodiles. We, I am happy to report, spotted both a leopard and a rare black sloth bear (our guide had only seen four in 10 years). Which is just as well as the four hour jeep safari began more modestly with the driver stopping in great excitement to point to a bird. It turned out to be a chicken. Relaxing at Anantaya Resort & Spa, Chilaw Our tour of northern Sri Lanka was rounded off at the lovely Anantaya Resort and Spa at Chilaw on the west coast. This beachfront property, with its palm trees, giant pool and truly excellent food (the £10 curry lunch would have fed four in my family), was just what I needed for a quick battery recharge. And that is one of the wonderful things about Sri Lanka, there are plenty of affordable options for luxurious battery recharging - a B&B stay for two at the Anantaya would set you back just £33 each per night if you were there this week. An equivalent European hotel would be five times that. Final Reflections: Magic Moments Abound in Sri Lanka If I were attempting to roundup my adventures around Sri Lanka in just two words I’d go for “magic moments”. And lots and lots of them. PANEL Martin flew with Sri Lankan Airlines after booking meet and greet parking at Heathrow with the Holiday Extras group. Their system is cheap, quick and easy to use. https://www.holidayextras.com/ If you’re thinking of visiting Sri Lanka check out the official tourism department’s website - https://www.srilanka.travel/ - and do consider using our tour guides Blue Lanka Tours - https://www.bluelankatours.com/ Visitor Information Best time to visit December to April generally offers the driest conditions on the east and north coasts. Trip length 5–8 days. Perfect for Wildlife lovers History enthusiasts Cultural travellers Photographers Returning visitors to Sri Lanka FAQ Section Is Northern Sri Lanka safe to visit? Following the end of the civil war in 2009, tourism has steadily returned to Northern Sri Lanka. Visitors now travel there to experience its distinctive culture, historic sites and wildlife, although it's always sensible to check current travel advice before booking. What are the highlights of Northern Sri Lanka? The region is known for Trincomalee's magnificent natural harbour and temples, the Tamil heritage of Jaffna, the remote landscapes of Mannar and wildlife safaris in Wilpattu National Park. Is Wilpattu better than Yala? Many wildlife enthusiasts prefer Wilpattu because it is less crowded while still offering excellent opportunities to see leopards, elephants, sloth bears and birdlife. Why visit Trincomalee? Trincomalee combines one of the world's finest natural harbours with dramatic sea cliffs, colourful Hindu temples and beautiful beaches, making it one of Sri Lanka's most fascinating coastal towns. How many days should you spend in Northern Sri Lanka? Allow at least five days to appreciate Trincomalee, Jaffna, Mannar and Wilpattu without rushing.

Rocks and archways on the way down Imbros Gorge, Western Crete If you want to experience a dramatic Cretan ravine without the crushing crowds of Samaria, walking the Imbros Gorge in Western Crete is the perfect alternative. This spectacular 8km (5-mile) descent takes you through towering limestone cliffs—including the famous two-metre-wide 'Iron Gates'—dropping from the village of Imbros down to Komitades near the Libyan Sea. Here is everything you need to know about the route, logistics, and where to find the best traditional lunch at the finish line. Close to the top of the Imbros Gorge The adventure starts at the quaint village of Imbros, located approximately 700 metres above sea level. This traditional Cretan village, with its narrow streets and stone houses, offers a glimpse into the local lifestyle and culture. Here, hikers can gear up and prepare for the journey ahead, amidst the backdrop of the White Mountains. Descending into Natural Splendour The Imbros Gorge, approximately eight kilometres long, is renowned for its striking rock formations and diverse flora and fauna. As the trail descends, hikers are greeted by towering cliffs and narrow passages, some only two metres wide, famously known as the "Iron Gates." This dramatic section is a highlight for many, providing awe-inspiring photo opportunities and a sense of being enveloped by nature's grandeur. Quick Guide to Imbros Gorge Highlight Details Top Tip for Hikers Trail Distance 8 km (approx. 5 miles) one-way down to Komitades. Takes about 2 to 2.5 hours at a relaxed pace—much easier and less crowded than Samaria Gorge. Difficulty Level Easy to moderate, downhill walk through a narrow canyon. Wear sturdy walking shoes/boots; the rocky riverbed path can be uneven underfoot. Key Highlights The "Narrow Pass" (only 1.6 metres wide with soaring 300m rock walls). Look out for dramatic limestone arches, scent of wild thyme, and native mountain goats. Return Logistics Local taxis and mini-buses run continuously from the bottom exit back to the top. Park at Imbros village, walk down, and grab a return taxi at Komitades for around €5–10 per person. A Flora and Fauna Haven Throughout the hike, one can observe a rich tapestry of plant and animal life. The gorge is home to endemic species such as the Cretan Wildcat - we certainly didn’t see any of those - and the Griffon Vulture, which we also failed to spot. Never mind, the botanical diversity is also noteworthy, with fragrant herbs, wildflowers, and ancient cypress and pine trees adorning the path. In spring when we were there, the gorge is particularly vibrant, with wildflowers blooming in abundance. Echoes of History The Imbros Gorge is not just a natural wonder but also a site of historical significance. During World War II, it served as an escape route for Allied soldiers heading to the southern coast of Crete. Remnants of this past, like old stone shelters and pathways, add an element of historical intrigue to the hike. Reaching the Sea The trek concludes at the village of Komitades, where the gorge opens up to magnificent views of the Libyan Sea. Here, hikers can relax and enjoy local Cretan cuisine in one of the tavernas, a perfect way to end the journey. The nearby coastal village of Sfakia offers opportunities for further exploration or a relaxing swim in the crystal-clear waters. Our hike leader had organised a truly delicious lunch at Komitades, the small village that hugs the southern coastal mountain slopes beneath the gorge, but high above the sea. It was a miracle of her organisational skills because it was Easter Day and the taverna had invited many family members to a huge meal. But taverna owners Giorgos and Annette put on a massive spread for we hungry hikers, which their entire family of polite young sons helped serve. Local family enjoys a delicious lunch at Komitades Practical Tips for Hikers Best Time to Visit: The gorge is most accessible from late spring to early autumn. Avoid winter and rainy seasons due to potential flooding. Gear Up: Wear comfortable hiking shoes, and bring water, snacks, a hat, and sunscreen. Fitness Level: The hike is of moderate difficulty, suitable for anyone with average fitness. Transportation: Consider arranging transportation back to Imbros or your next destination from Komitades. Blue seas at Komitades Imbros Gorge Walk: Frequently Asked Questions How long does it take to walk the Imbros Gorge? The 8km (5-mile) trail is a steady, continuous descent that takes most walkers between 2 to 3 hours at a leisurely pace. Because it doesn't require the grueling physical commitment of the nearby Samaria Gorge, you can easily complete the walk in a morning and have plenty of afternoon left for lunch and a swim. Is the Imbros Gorge hike difficult? It is generally classified as a moderate walk. Because the route is an entirely downhill gradient, it doesn't demand massive cardiovascular fitness. However, the terrain underfoot is loose, rocky, and uneven. You will need decent ankle support—leave the flip-flops at the hotel and wear proper walking shoes or sturdy trainers. How do I get back to the start of the trail? When you emerge from the gorge at the village of Komitades, you will find plenty of local taxi drivers and minibus operators offering rides back up the mountain pass to the village of Imbros (where you started or parked). The drive takes about 20 minutes and is very reasonably priced. Is there an entrance fee for Imbros Gorge? Yes, there is a small entry ticket fee (usually around €2 to €3) collected at the little booth at the top of the trailhead in Imbros village. The funds go toward maintaining the path and keeping the route clear, so keep a bit of loose change handy in your pockets. Can you walk the gorge in the winter? It is highly discouraged and often closed during the winter and rainy seasons. Because it is a narrow ravine, heavy mountain downpours can trigger flash flooding and falling rocks, making the path incredibly hazardous. The gorge is best experienced from late spring to early autumn. Where should I eat after finishing the hike? The trail finishes in the lovely village of Komitades, which hugs the southern coastal mountain slopes. Do not rush straight back to your car—stop at one of the traditional tavernas for authentic Cretan hospitality. If you are lucky, you might even cross paths with local hosts like Giorgos and Annette, who know exactly how to feed hungry hikers after a day in the mountains! There are various inexpensive alternatives when it comes to places to stay around the Imbros Gorge area - to see what they are, click the button below...