Fingle Bridge and The Angler's Rest pub, Teign Gorge, Devon Devon is a land of endless variety. While we often celebrate its dramatic sea-cliffs, hidden coves, and sweeping river valleys, there are times when it’s thoroughly refreshing to discover something new, distinct, and unexpected. Whether you are seeking the salty air of open dune-lands, a cool retreat into a shadowy river gorge, or a high-ridge march across ancient heathland, nothing completes a West Country walk quite like a welcoming pub at the end. Here are six outstanding Devon pub walks—condensed from my travels across the county—designed to show off the very best of our landscape and local hospitality. IF YOU ENJOY THIS POST CHECK OUT OUR OTHER DEVON WALKS HERE An old anchor is a feature of the quay at Appledore, North Devon 1. Appledore Circular & Northam Burrows Appledore… what a lovely name, and what a fine place perched on the banks of the River Torridge where it meets the Taw before making a grand entrance into Bideford Bay. Turning our backs on gentle river valleys and rolling forests, Northam Burrows offers something novel: a magical dune-land jutting into the bay. The peninsula is reminiscent of Holland or Texel off the coast of Friesland—a big flat piece of sandy jetsam anchored on the Devon coast. Starting from Appledore's historic harbour, a twenty-minute stroll around the peninsula brings you to the Country Park. Crossing the spiky Sharp Rush and the shingle ridge leads down onto the sweeping three-kilometre sandy beach extending from Westward Ho! (the only place name boasting an exclamation mark). Out towards Zulu Sands, gulls gather where razor-shell beds thrive, while sheep and ponies—grazed by local 'potwallopers' holding ancient common rights—mooch contentedly alongside the South West Coast Path. Heading back along the river shore, you pass The Skern, a quiet salt-marsh creek famed for its wading birds and rare winged visitors. From there, it is only a matter of minutes back into the heart of Appledore for well-earned coastal refreshment. A view across Northam Burows to Appledore, Devon Fact File Start/Finish: Appledore Harbour / Northam Burrows Country Park Distance & Terrain: 4.5 miles; flat terrain across pavements, grassy tracks, and sandy/shingle beach. Recommended Map: OS Explorer 139 (Bideford, Ilfracombe & Barnstaple) Featured Pub: The Beaver Inn, Irsha Street, Appledore, EX39 1RY Pub Details: A historic, dog-friendly maritime pub situated right on the Torridge estuary edge. Renowned for fresh local seafood, real ales, and an outdoor terrace with sweeping water views. Open daily for food and drinks. Website: www.beaverinn.co.uk From Branscombe looking towards Beer Head, East Devon 2. Branscombe to Beer Circular The coombe leading down to the shore at Branscombe Mouth is bathed in glorious light where sea meets sky. Ascending from the beach brings you past an agreeable, scattered caravan site into the Undercliff—Devon’s very own jungle zone, where a mother-cliff plunges into the sea and creates a sheltered, contorted natural amphitheatre. In decades past, this frost-free haven hosted celebrated cliffside agriculture. Fishermen-farmers tilled steep plots known as 'plats', fertilising early broad beans, strawberries, and famous Branscombe spuds with sea-kelp hauled up by donkeys. Today, the warm, micro-climatic Undercliff thrives with wildlife; peregrine falcons soar overhead while Speckled Wood butterflies flutter through the sunny glades. Ascending towards Beer Head brings you onto the high chalk plateau above gleaming white cliffs. The path curls down into one of the most charming cove villages in the South West. After sampling fresh local crab by the beach in Beer, an inland public right of way leads back across the high downs directly to Branscombe. The seaside village of Beer as seen from the sea Fact File Start/Finish: Branscombe Mouth Distance & Terrain: 4 miles; moderate going with coastal ascents and undulating Undercliff paths. Recommended Map: OS Explorer 115 & 116 (Exeter & Sidmouth / Lyme Regis) Featured Pub: The Anchor Inn, Fore Street, Beer, EX12 3ET Pub Details: A classic, characterful cliffside inn overlooking Beer’s shingle beach and fishing boats. Serves regional real ales and locally caught seafood, featuring a cliff-top beer garden with stunning sea views. Open daily year-round. Website: www.anchorinnbeer.co.uk View of Bigbury Bay looking from the top of Burgh Island 3. Bigbury, Ringmore & Ayrmer Cove Circular No visit to Bigbury-on-Sea is complete without eyeing Burgh Island, lurking 270 yards offshore. Reachable on foot at low tide or via the famous sea-tractor, this historic isle was home to pilchard fishers, ancient monasteries, and legendary smugglers. Using those illicit maritime links as our guide, this walk strikes west around Warren Point along the South West Coast Path into Challaborough Bay before heading inland. Climbing above Black Stone brings you to an inland path heading toward Ringmore—a stretch known locally as 'Reptile Alley' for its sunbathing lizards and adders. Ringmore itself is a quintessential thatched village anchored by a historic pub rich in smuggling lore. From the village, an antediluvian leafy byway—the old smugglers' track—winds down into picturesque Ayrmer Cove, a secluded jewel framed by high, rugged cliffs where ancient galleons once wrecked. After exploring the quiet strand, a short, steep climb to Toby's Point reveals panoramic vistas across the whole of Bigbury Bay before returning you along the coastal path. Ayrmer Cove in South Devon as seen from the Smuggler's Path Fact File Start/Finish: Bigbury-on-Sea Car Park Distance & Terrain: 3.4 miles; moderate with a couple of short, steep climbs. Recommended Map: OS Explorer 102 (Brixham & Dartmouth) Featured Pub: Journey's End Inn, Ringmore, TQ7 4HL Pub Details: A gorgeous 13th-century thatched pub hidden in the valley at Ringmore. Full of historic character, flagstone floors, and log fires, offering fine cask ales and top-quality seasonal dishes. Open daily for lunch and evening service. Website: www.thejourneysendinn.co.uk Walkers admiring the old signaller's hut at Culmstock Becon 4. Wellington Monument to Culmstock Beacon The Blackdown Hills Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty represents one of the most unspoilt inland landscapes in the Westcountry. This high-ridge walk explores an extraordinary flat-topped escarpment that reaches out like a giant diving board into the green patchwork of mid-Devon. Starting near Crossways Farm, an ancient ridgeway tracks through Forestry Commission woodlands onto Blackdown Common—a wild, heather-clad heath that feels like a preserved piece of ancient England. Striking south-west along the escarpment reveals sweeping, multi-county panoramas before arriving at Culmstock Beacon. Here stands what is believed to be the only surviving 16th-century stone beacon house in England, built to signal the approach of the Spanish Armada. Descending the steep slope past Pitt Farm brings you into the verdant valley below. Crossing the gentle River Culm, the path tracks alongside water meadows into Culmstock—an idyllic village anchored by its ancient church and an outstanding riverside pub. The path crosses meadows to reach Culmstock, Devon Fact File Start/Finish: Crossways Farm / Culmstock Village Distance & Terrain: 5 miles (linear); easy ridgeway walking followed by one steep descent and riverside paths. Recommended Map: OS Explorer 128 (Taunton & Blackdown Hills) Featured Pub: The Culm Valley Inn, Woodgate Road, Culmstock, EX15 3JH Pub Details: A celebrated, quirky riverside free house bursting with charm and local atmosphere. Famous for its exceptional pub food, generous cold platters, board specials, and excellent local ales. Positioned right beside the River Culm. Open daily. Website: www.culmvalleyinn.co.uk 5. The coastal rock strata at Hartland Quay Southern Circular This circular hike delivers some of the most dramatic and savage coastal landscape in the British Isles. Starting from the Rocket House high above Hartland Quay—once home to brave rocket-rescuer squads who saved sailors from windward shipwrecks—the route descends past the historic quay buildings and museum nestled beneath towering dark cliffs. Heading south along the coast path, you climb above Screda Point before reaching the strange, flat-bottomed amphitheatre surrounding St Catherine’s Tor. This miniature half-mountain is wrapped in legend, said to have hosted hermitages for both St Catherine and Celtic Saint Nectan, as well as ancient Roman activity. Beyond, contorted grey slate cliffs—twisted by geological forces into sharp, pointed arches—lead to Speke’s Mill Mouth, where a mountain stream plunges over the cliff edge in dramatic waterfalls. Turning inland up the wooded valley leads to Milford and onwards to Stoke. Here, the 14th-century St Nectan’s Church boasts Devon’s second-tallest tower. A quiet path through neighbouring fields returns you directly to the Rocket House overlooking the Atlantic surge. The coast south of Hartland Quay, Fact File Start/Finish: Hartland Quay Rocket House Car Park Distance & Terrain: 4.2 miles; rugged and strenuous in places with steep coastal ascents. Recommended Map: OS Explorer 126 (Clovelly & Hartland) Featured Pub: The Wreckers Retreat (Hartland Quay Hotel), Hartland EX39 6DU Pub Details: Perched right on the granite edge of the Atlantic Ocean, this uniquely atmospheric bar is packed with nautical memorabilia and shipwreck relics. Serves hearty pub food, local beers, and stunning sunset views over the breaking waves. Open daily year-round. Website: www.hartlandquayhotel.co.uk The Angler's Rest at Fingle Bridge in the Teign Gorge 6. Fingle Bridge & The Teign Gorge When summer heat hits, there is no finer retreat than the shadowy depth of the Teign Gorge. Hidden below Dartmoor’s high eastern fringes, this dramatic defile traps the icy freshness of the moorland river, creating a cool, sheltered sanctuary of oak woods and rushing water. YOU CAN SEE MORE DARTMOOR WALKS HERE Starting at the medieval stone arches of Fingle Bridge, cross to the southern bank and follow the riverside track upstream through Hannicombe and Whiddon Woods. Passing the historic turbine house—which generated hydro-electricity for Castle Drogo until 1994—a rustic footbridge leads across the foaming river. Pausing on the bridge offers views of the Teign roaring down over granite boulders and rocky slabs. The return path follows the northern bank beneath the towering cliffs of Sharp Tor and Hunters Tor. National Trust steps guide you around rocky buttresses where the roar of white water echoes through the trees, eventually delivering you straight back to the idyllic riverside inn at Fingle Bridge. Fact File Start/Finish: Fingle Bridge, Drewsteignton Distance & Terrain: 3 miles; easy to moderate riverside loop with well-defined paths and occasional rocky steps. Recommended Map: OS Explorer OL28 (Dartmoor) Featured Pub: Fingle Bridge Inn, Drewsteignton, Exeter, EX6 6QU Pub Details: Nestled right on the banks of the River Teign at the base of the gorge. Features a large riverside beer garden under the trees, cozy indoor fires, real ales, and classic pub fare. A beloved haven for walkers, dogs, and families. Open daily. Website: www.finglebridgeinn.co.uk The cooling hike in the Teign Gorge Frequently Asked Questions: Walking & Real Ale in Devon Why is Devon considered such a premier county for pub walks? Devon combines thousands of miles of public rights of way—stretching across two national parks (Dartmoor and Exmoor) and two coasts—with a exceptionally rich pub culture. Across Devon's active CAMRA branches (including North Devon, Exeter & East Devon, and South Devon), the county boasts hundreds of traditional free houses and independent inns dedicated to maintaining proper cask-conditioned ales, local ciders, and regional hospitality right on the trail. What should walkers look for in a great CAMRA-worthy country pub? For beer enthusiasts and ramblers alike, a great West Country pub offers well-kept cask real ales served via traditional handpull (or straight from the gravity barrel), local real ciders, log fires in winter, and a warm welcome for mud-splattered boots and dogs. Look out for pubs listed in CAMRA’s Good Beer Guide or those flying the flag for local Devon breweries and microbreweries such as Otter, Dartmoor, Clearwater, and Hanlons. Are these pub walks suitable year-round? Yes, though each season brings a different charm. High coastal paths like Hartland Quay or the Blackdown ridge offer dramatic winter vistas, while sheltered spots like the Teign Gorge or Branscombe Undercliff provide cool sanctuary in the height of summer. While the featured pubs are open year-round, it is always wise to check individual pub opening times—particularly for weekday food service outside peak holiday months. Do I need specialist hiking gear for these routes? Most of these six walks follow well-trodden sections of the South West Coast Path, National Trust trails, or public rights of way. A good pair of sturdy walking shoes or boots, a waterproof jacket, and an Ordnance Survey map (or OS Maps app) are recommended. Routes with steep drops or slippery slate (such as Hartland Quay or the Undercliffs) require reasonable footwear, especially after heavy rain.

Having stayed at the wonderful Victoria Hotel in Sidmouth recently, we enjoyed a couple of fantastic local walks. Here’s one to the east of town… The beach looking east along Salcombe Regis Mouth Each time I embark on one of these hikes the West Country seems to shrink. Slowly, gradually, an enormous mental jig-saw puzzle is falling into place piece by piece. Distant hills that were once nothing more than an amorphous horizon are now old friends which have been tramped, researched and written about. Great vales and vistas weave between the uplands and each contains a half-dozen hikes between river-source and sea. From one hill you see a neighbouring plateau; a valley curves north or south to meet another; a bay is terminated by a headland that you have spied before from far away.... Approaching the beach down at Salcombe Regis Mouth, There comes a time when you begin to realise the linkage of it all. Your perception of the peninsula then encompasses a single sense of place, regardless of county divides. But there are a few exceptions to this rule. My own beloved West Somerset is one - sealed from the rest of the world by its great ring of hills and its Bristol Channel shore, the area seems to occupy a magical sphere of its own. If you're looking for more local routes ending at a great inn, check out my guide to Six Great Pub Walks in Devon East Devon, beyond High Peak is another. The big hills that curve east from that mighty brow consign this region to an altogether different sphere of influence. From Sidmouth to Seaton and beyond, you are somehow rooted in Wessex rather than the West. Chalk and flint, cretaceous greensand and red triassic Keuper marl - they are the new and different bare bones that make this place what it is. Geology is everything. It shapes hills and valleys just as surely as it can alter the taste of cheese or wine. On this hike we will see the last, westernmost outcrops of Britain's chalk. Big bold, dramatic outcrops they are too. Carved by wind and rain, the tall white ramparts that are Rempstone Rocks play host to kestrel and raven and offer some of the best views east to Portland Bill to be found anywhere along the coast. Looking down into Salcombe Regis Mouth, East Devon Our walk begins at Salcombe Hill high above Sidmouth. You can get to it from the main A3052 Exeter to Dorchester road. From here I followed the upper contours of the steep valley to the east so I could take a look at Salcombe Regis is a pretty little village boasting a fine old church. From modest beginnings hereabouts, this valley extends itself into a broad and rather spectacular 'V' that is terminated abruptly by the workings of the sea. Check out our Devon walks page here Down it we walked - at first on a made-up road, and then through the yard at Coombe Wood Farm to reach the fields beyond. Basically you are in the business of linking up with the Coast Path and at the farm you have a choice of routes: one that goes straight down towards the sea. or the one you'll see ascending to the left. We popped down to the beach at Salcombe Mouth and then paid for it by having to climb the steep contours to over Dunscombe Cliff. At the top you can admire the fine coastal views before heading off east towards a fascinating area known as Dunscombe Humps. The National Trust, which owns this area, tells me this was the place where chalk was once burnt to make lime, and that piles of discarded flints are what remains from the process which ceased in 1906. This surprised me as the humps looked as if they adorned this steep coast for a lot longer than that. In one place there is a sort of secret chasm. We squeezed through the thicket and found ourselves in a church-sized hole which would have been a smuggler's dream. A few brambles tied across the mouth would keep your booty safe from the excise-man forever and a day... Suddenly the humps give way to an abyss. A very handsome and decorative abyss - but an abyss nevertheless, where terra-firm ceases to exist in a most abrupt and airy of ways. We have arrived at the aforementioned Rempstone Rocks and all I can say here - apart from mentioning their chalky, westerly claim to fame in the record books - is watch your step. At 520 feet they are the highest cliffs on the South Devon Coast and the Trust leaflet says: "being composed of soft material, are notoriously liable to slump and slip." It adds, "The visitor will spot a number of ledges or platforms on the cliff slope, some of them occupied by summer bungalows or caravans." The beach at Salcombe Regis Mouth Indeed, our hike now plunges us into the wooded and hidden demesne of a caravan park, but first allow me to mention broad beans - not only because I am inordinately fond of these green, toothsome wonders, but because they (along with spuds and sundry other veg) were once grown on these south-facing, frost-free platforms - or plats as they were known. Seaweed was collected from the beach far below at Weston Mouth and brought up here by donkey. Children helped and the whole sea-facing area between here and Branscombe was a sort of salty garden before mass-food production consigned such endeavours to the great compost bin called quantity-over-quality. The short, dull afternoon turned dark and so we cut Weston Mouth from our tour and scuttled through the caravan park inland to the lane where we turned left for the brief half-mile walk back to Salcombe Regis. Another, rather obscure but beautiful, piece of the West Country jigsaw found and placed neatly into the great peninsula puzzle. Fact File Basic Hike From Salcombe Regis just east of Sidmouth, to Coast Path, then east before turning inland to Dunscombe and returning along the lane. Recommended Map: Ordnance Survey Explorer 115. Distance and going: Just over four miles, steep and muddy in one or two places. Lock on to the Lockyer The Norman Lockyer Observatory is located just metres from the beginning of this walk. It is both an observatory and home to an active amateur astronomical society. Run by volunteers, it isn’t always open - but pay it a visit by checking out the opening times at http://normanlockyer.com Sightseeing at Sidmouth Far below the beginning of the walk to the west is Sidmouth - one of the most charming coastal resorts on the entire West Country littoral. Do pop down to town for refreshments - there are plenty of excellent watering holes in town. Watch out at Weston Mouth I’d recommend plunging down the wooded valley to Weston Mouth if you have the time. But one slight warning - if you go on a warmish day you might be confronted by bare bodies on the beach - it is a well known haunt for naturists. Frequently Asked Questions: Salcombe Regis & East Devon Coastal Walk How long is the Salcombe Regis to Dunscombe coastal walk? This circular walk is just over 4 miles long and takes roughly 2 to 2.5 hours to complete. While relatively short, the route includes a couple of steep ascents and descents around Salcombe Mouth and Dunscombe Cliff, requiring moderate fitness. What are the Dunscombe Humps and Rempstone Rocks? The Dunscombe Humps are the historic remnants of chalk lime-burning pits and discarded flint piles that were worked until 1906. Rempstone Rocks are dramatic, 520-foot high chalk cliffs—the highest on the South Devon coast—representing the westernmost outcrop of chalk in Great Britain. Where do you park for the Salcombe Regis circular walk? Walkers can start at Salcombe Regis village or park at the Salcombe Hill car park near the Norman Lockyer Observatory just off the A3052. From there, public footpaths lead down through the valley towards Coombe Wood Farm and the South West Coast Path. Are there pub or refreshment stops nearby? While there are no pubs directly in the quiet hamlet of Salcombe Regis, the historic coastal town of Sidmouth is situated just two miles west, offering excellent local pubs, traditional tea rooms, and sea-front dining. ***

A glorious 6-mile National Trust coastal walk from Coleton Fishacre to Kingswear, the Dart Estuary and Froward Point There are times – few and far between, I hope – when we all feel deflated and defeated. Mustering enough energy to get out, walk and explore is certainly an act that is vulnerable to whim or mood. But – and it is the biggest BUT I can imagine – our fabulous peninsula is still out there, no matter how soggy it might be. And all it’s waiting for is the curtain of clouds to be opened and for sunlight to pour in. The mouth of the Dart near Coleton Fishacre Waiting for Sunshine So this is what I reckon I’m going to do in the coming weeks… If the weatherman happens to promise a sunlit day, I am going to be heading somewhere extra-scenic, ultra-beautiful, in order to kick-start my outdoor pursuits. I reckon a single day spent out on the cliffs above an azure sparkling sea could make all the difference. It could beam a heady light into the darkness that was a damp winter and turn it into the slightest dismal wisp of a memory. The house at Coleton Fishacre If you're looking for more local routes ending at a great inn, check out my guide to Six Great Pub Walks in Devon Why Coleton Fishacre? And I can think of no better walking zone in which to do such a thing than the heavenly area around Coleton Fishacre in South Devon. The house and gardens are owned by the National Trust are only open in season – but the charity also holds vast tracts of coastal land around the amazing V-shaped peninsula that struts into the English Channel between Brixham and Kingswear. The coast beneath Coleton Fishacre You can park your car in either of the car-parks just above Coleton Fishacre. A lane runs from one car park to the other, and if you walk along it to the west - and keep going - it will turn into a narrow path at Higher Brownstone Farm, and this will take you steeply down towards Kingswear. It's one of those paths where the bed-rock shows through to somehow bear witness to the hooves of the centuries, and this rather historic mood is later highlighted by the fortifications which you'll see in the bay far below. The gardens at Coleton Fishacre Walking into Kingswear Another tarmac lane takes the walker along the side of a deep valley to the coast path and here you have a choice: you can either turn left and get on with the hike proper, or you can follow the road down into Kingswear or Dartmouth for lunch. This is a bit of a treat if you like peering into gardens, and Kingswear's sunny seaward slopes seem to allow all manner of Mediterranean plants to thrive. Looking across from Dartmouth to Kingswear Indeed, stroll through the pine woods which line the mouth of the Dart here and you could easily imagine you were somewhere on the Cote d’Azur – at least in spring or summer. I wasn’t actually voicing such thoughts recently when I did this walk and crossed over to Dartmouth to eat fish and chips, huddled against a bitter north wind on the quayside. There is something so fundamentally British about this type of cold, greasy, repast - and the seagulls who want to share your meal only seem to add to the insanity that you could possibly eat al-fresco in midwinter anywhere north of Marseille. And why should you? There are plenty of cafes, restaurants and pubs both sides of the river. The Coleton Fishacre Coast Along the South West Coast Path Fuelled, if not frozen, we went back across the river and rejoined our circular route where the South West Coast Path leaves Kingswear's most easterly lane by an elaborate flight of wooden steps, and weaves its way down towards Warren House. This place has a small fort in its garden, but don’t tarry too long to admire it as you must climb what, to the digester of fish and chips, can look like the north face of the Eiger. But this particular haul is well worthwhile because it brings you to the aforementioned forest of pines. It is a pity that so many appear to be in poor health, but don't let that spoil your enjoyment of this most wonderful of all estuary mouths. By the way, if you ever do the walk around Warren Point on the other side of the estuary you will see how completely different a river can look, depending which shore you're on. If pushed I'd have to tell you that this eastern section of the Dart is by far the preferable - the views through the pines, down across Kingswear Castle and over the deep blue-green river to Dartmouth Castle are quite simply picture-perfect. Froward Point and the Daymark The path winds its way through the woods to Newfoundland Cove and onwards around Inner Froward Point where you can look down on the multitudinous birds spiralling around the Mew Stone and Shag Rock. There’s a National Coastwatch look-out on the headland, manned by volunteers who keep an eye on boats and shipping along this busy part of the coast. National Coastwatch near Froward Point You could at this juncture turn inland and walk up the track past the 80-foot high Daymark standing proud in its field. The hollow, stone construction was built in 1864 as a navigational aid for shipping and stands rather elegantly on eight angled columns. The 80-foot high Daymark The track will take you directly back to the lane with the car parks – but it’s far better, in my opinion, to continue on the coast path which runs north-east along the cliff-tops and eventually turns into Pudcombe Cove. Returning via Coleton Fishacre That’s where the walker is introduced to the magical demesne of Coleton Fishacre. It’s closed for winter at the moment – which means you have to take the footpath that runs inland directly up to the farm. The old castle on the Kingswear side of the River Dart But even from there you can look down on the little corner of heaven that was built in 1925 for Rupert and Lady Dorothy D'Oyly Carte (of operatic fame). The house – which is every bit as beautiful as its environs - apparently reflects the Arts and Crafts tradition, but has what are described as 'refreshingly' modern interiors. The couple created the fabulous gardens around the place, complete with gazebo, many water-features and an impressive collection of rare and exotic plants. Looking down on Coleton Fishacre from the footpath that takes you back to the car parks will, I am sure, inspire you to return in the heat of what will be the perfect British summer… He writes, fingers crossed, touching wood, and everything else he can think of that will help make this happen. But even if for some hellish reason it doesn’t, completing this walk on a sunny winter’s day will gladden your heart for months to come. Fact File Starting Point Car parks on hill above Coleton Fishacre are easy to find by following signs south of B3205. Map Ordnance Survey Outdoor Leisure Map 20 is the ideal companion. Distance 6 miles. Difficulty Moderate with several steep climbs. Terrain Coastal footpaths, woodland trails, lanes and cliff-top paths. Highlights Coleton Fishacre Kingswear Dartmouth South West Coast Path Froward Point Daymark Kingswear Castle Dartmouth Castle Newfoundland Cove Spectacular Dart Estuary views

Anyone who reads The Cornish Snapper: The granite Mystery will come across lovely, magical, Porthgwarrra, located as far west as you can get on the Cornish coast. Here is an article and a podcast all about this most magical of places... Some people suffer from the January blues here in the northern hemisphere and someone just asked us to recommend a place in the UK to which they could escape and recharge their batteries. Porthgwarra, the tiny fishing cove tucked in its shallow, sheltered valley just south of Land’s End that is a little corner of paradise perched upon the very edge of our green and pleasant land. So charming and somehow cosy is little known Porthgwarra, that it is one place I’d consider living in if I weren’t ensconced in my native hills. The valley dips from the high plateau of West Penwith taking with it a stream, accompanied by all manner of bird-filled thickets surrounded by wild flowers. Up at the higher reaches, ancient farmsteads lurk as if they’ve been here since the very granite rock itself was born, but lower down there’s a scattering of cottages old and not so old – with the odd 1920s shack thrown in for romantic measure. Take a look out our South West Coast Path guide here This attractively cluttered, secluded and protected vale eventually terminates at the cove itself, but it’s not a simple meeting of rock and wave. The soft, partly decomposed granite has been eaten away in different chunks so that a mini-headland is able to jut into the middle of the cove. An old stone slipway stretches down to the sand on one side, but on the other access can be gained through a rough hewn tunnel, carved many years ago by local miners to help farmers glean seaweed from the beach. This somewhat cluttered indentation of the coast has a strange picturesque quality that creates a romance all of its own. The various tunnels carved here and there in the soft rock suggest an age of swashbuckle and smuggling, though most were dug and blasted for prosaic workaday reasons. But there’s something extra wild about the sea out here in the far west. It may be a mere nuance born of a journalist’s fancy – but I’d swear it looks more angry and potentially more perilous than elsewhere. After all, England’s ultimate corner, Land’s End, lies just around the corner from Gwennap Head. And just offshore there’s the clanging buoy that marks the dreaded Runnel Stone – a needle that has taken countless mariners to a watery grave. Quick Guide to Porthgwarra Highlight What to Expect Top Tip for Visitors The Cove & Tunnels A tiny, secluded granite slipway with hand-cut tunnels through the cliff face. Visit at mid-to-low tide to explore the slipway and sandy cove safely. Gwennap Head Hike Spectacular cliff-top walk along the South West Coast Path to the NCI Lookout. Watch for seals in the cove and gannets or choughs off the granite headland. Porthgwarra Cafe Traditional Cornish tea room serving cream teas, crab sandwiches, and hot pasties. Parking and toilets are located right next to the cafe at the head of the valley. Poldark Connection Famous filming location for Ross Poldark's swim and pilchard fishing scenes. Get there early during summer peak; the valley road and car park are narrow. There’s almost always seal or two lurking in the cove at Porthgwarra, as if to remind visitors that they really are halfway to a world that is more water and wave than rock and soil. I’d recommend a stay in one of St Aubyn Estate cottages at Porthgwarra Take a look at our Cornwall & Isles of Scilly page here Frequently Asked Questions About Visiting Porthgwarra Where is Porthgwarra located? Porthgwarra is a secluded coastal hamlet situated on the St Levan parish coastline in Far West Cornwall, located between Porthcurno and Land's End. Why are there tunnels in the rock at Porthgwarra? The tunnels were hand-carved out of the granite cliff in the 18th century by local fishermen. One tunnel allowed horse-drawn carts to haul seaweed up from the beach to use as fertilizer, while the second provided fishermen with access to the cove. Is there parking at Porthgwarra? Yes, there is a small pay-and-display car park located right in the valley bottom near the Porthgwarra Cove Cafe. Because the access lane is narrow, spaces can fill quickly during peak summer days.

Years ago we lived in Greece where we learned to catch octopus in the little bay where we lived. We also used to visit a town called Galatas where some very untouristy old bars - full of old men - used to serve grilled octopus as a kind of tapas when you bought enough ouzo. I loved that stuff. Really loved the smoky, sweet salty sea-flavour of the very chewy octopus with a squeeze of lemon. The Golden Rule: Simmer Before You Smoke Grilling octopus might seem like a daunting task, reserved only for seasoned grill masters or adventurous home chefs. But don't be daunted. Cooking octopus is an art, and with a little patience, some preparation, and the right tools - in our case, the Kamado Joe Classic II - you can create a masterpiece. Today, we venture into the world of octopus grilling, and I promise you, by the end of this, you'll be ready to fire up your Kamado Joe Classic II for an unforgettable culinary adventure. IF YOU ENJOY THISN POST CHECK OUT OUR GUIDE TO SEAFOOD STEW HERE Using the Kamado Joe to cook seafood Quick Highlights: How to Grill Octopus The Secret to Tenderness: Simmer or braise the octopus gently in its own juices or a cork-and-aromatic broth for 45–60 minutes before hitting the grill. Flavour Profile: Smoky charred exterior with a melt-in-the-mouth, tender interior, finished with extra virgin olive oil, lemon juice, and oregano. Grill Technique: High, direct heat (Kamado, charcoal, or wood flame) for just 3–5 minutes per side to achieve a crispy char without drying it out. Pro Tip: Let the cooked octopus cool completely in its cooking liquid after simmering—this seals in moisture and keeps the skin intact on the grill. Why Grill Octopus? Octopus, when cooked correctly, can be a showstopper on the plate. It has a unique, slightly sweet flavor and a tender, meaty texture that pairs well with a variety of seasonings and sauces. Grilling adds a smoky depth to its flavor profile that's nothing short of amazing. Preparing the Charcoal or Wood Fire Before we dive into the recipe, it's important to remember that the secret to a tender, perfectly grilled octopus lies in its preparation. Octopus needs to be tenderised before grilling, as it can be quite tough. One popular method is to simmer the octopus in a pot of boiling water with some herbs and vegetables. An old Italian trick is to add a cork from a bottle of wine to the pot. It's believed to contain an enzyme that helps tenderise the octopus. Grilled Octopus Recipe Ingredients: 1 medium-sized octopus (about 2-3 pounds) 1 wine cork 1 onion, quartered 2 bay leaves Salt and pepper to taste 1/4 cup olive oil 2 cloves garlic, minced Lemon wedges for serving Instructions: Clean and Prepare the Octopus: Clean the octopus thoroughly, removing the beak and the eyes, and rinsing under cold water. Tenderise the Octopus: In a large pot, bring water, the onion, bay leaves, and wine cork to a boil. Add the octopus, reduce the heat, and let it simmer for about 45-60 minutes, or until it's tender when pierced with a fork. Marinate the Octopus: Remove the octopus from the pot and let it cool. Once cooled, cut it into pieces. Combine olive oil, garlic, salt, and pepper in a bowl. Add the octopus pieces and marinate for at least 2 hours. Grill the Octopus: Preheat your Kamado Joe Classic II grill to medium-high heat. Grill the octopus pieces for about 4-5 minutes on each side, until they're nicely charred and crisp. Serve: Serve the grilled octopus with lemon wedges on the side. It pairs well with a fresh salad, roasted potatoes, or simply a nice, crusty bread. In Conclusion Grilling octopus might be a bit out of your comfort zone, but it's a culinary challenge worth taking. It is unique, flavourful, and will surely impress your dinner guests. Plus, with your Kamado Joe Classic II, you're well-equipped to handle this task. So, fire up your grill, and enjoy the process. After all, as they say, the journey is as important as the destination. Frequently Asked Questions About Grilling Octopus Why is my grilled octopus rubbery? Octopus becomes rubbery if placed straight onto a hot grill raw. To ensure melt-in-the-mouth tenderness, always gently simmer or braise the octopus in liquid for 45 to 60 minutes until a knife slides easily into the thickest part of the tentacle before searing it over high heat. How long do you cook octopus on the grill? Because the octopus is already cooked through during the pre-simmering stage, it only needs 3 to 5 minutes per side over very high direct heat (charcoal or wood flame) to develop a smoky, charred exterior. Do you need to boil octopus with a wine cork? Adding a wine cork to the simmering pot is a traditional Mediterranean custom believed to help break down tough enzymes. While a gentle, slow simmer is the true key to tenderness, many traditional chefs still drop a natural cork into the pot for good luck and technique.

Of all the things we cook, fish can be the most challenging. Not, perhaps, when you have a single fillet or even one whole fish - it’s when you are confronted by an entire basket, bag or net full of various swimming creatures hauled from the deep that you can be forgiven for wondering what on earth to do with such variety. The Heritage of Marseille's Famous Fish Stew The French have the ultimate answer to this shoal-sized problem - they make their famous Mediterranean fish soup called bouillabaisse. Done well, this is - in the opinion of many people, including me - the ultimate, the most complete and the most perfect of all seafood dishes. But the French (and I’ve always admired them for this even though the idea can cause an amateur English cook far more pain than grief) can get very sniffy and particular about how they compose even the most simple of recipes - let alone bouillabaisse, which is something of a seafood symphony. Quick Highlights: Authentic Bouillabaisse Guide Origin: Traditional provençal fish stew originating from the port city of Marseille, France. Key Ingredients: Mixed rockfish, saffron, garlic, tomatoes, olive oil, and fennel, served alongside rouille sauce and toasted croutons. Serving Style: Traditionally served in two courses—first the aromatic saffron broth poured over bread, followed by the stewed whole fish plated separately. Chef's Tip: Never boil gently! The key to a proper bouillabaisse is a rapid, hard boil to emulsify the olive oil and stock into a rich, velvety sauce. The grand question of fish soup is one I have pondered since I first visited the Cote-d’-Azure 40 years ago - and I’ve been aided and abetted in this pondering by collecting fish soups and stews all over the planet during the intervening years. I wish I’d photographed all the resultant dishes I’ve been served - and bullied recipes out of those who’ve succeeded in cooking minor maritime masterpieces - I could have published a book. Part of the reason for my obsession is that I am aware we live in an oceanic peninsula surrounded by rich waters full of all manner of fabulous fish and other forms of seafood - so much of which, sadly, we Brits don’t eat. Essential Fish, Saffron, and Aromatic Ingredients Take wrasse for example - a horribly bony fish that no professional fisherman would ever bother putting up for sale. Our wrasse a big and bony - but they happen to be the cousins of the small and bony wrasse which are often used in the bouillabaisse of that dish’s home port, Marseille. We chuck our wrasse away - they queue for theirs in the market. Anyway, I’ve eaten fish soups around the globe in a bid to learn more about their alchemy - the worst I’ve ever eaten was just last year on the Greek isle of Spetses - the best was consumed 26 years ago on Corsica. And all that time I’ve wondered why it is we don’t make fabulous fish soups from the underwater marvels which are caught off our coasts… So imagine my surprise and pleasure a few years ago when I noticed that bouillabaisse was on the menu of one of the best food pubs in Devon. I duly ordered it as a main while dining with friends at the snug and altogether excellent little village pub at Millbrook in the South Hams - and nearly wept with pleasure when it turned out to be first class. Actually, I wasn’t surprised. The Millbrook’s well known chef at the time, Jean-Philippe Bidart, is a bit of a genius and - as his name suggests - he is also French. Later that joyous evening he came out of his kitchen for a chat and promised to let me in to the secret of his perfect bouillabaisse. Here is the note he sent me… How to cook bouillabaisse the Jean-Philippe Bidart way. “Bouillabaisse looks very complicated to make but it is actually very simple. It is just that it is a long process, requiring two hours to make - although you can make the soup the day before and buy your fresh fish, warm your soup, add the mussels and pan fry the fish the next day. “Anyone can cook this dish - there is little skill required. It’s also incredibly healthy and very filling too. You can have it for lunch, or for dinner as a starter, reducing the portions. “This bouillabaisse recipe is very much my own version, but you can add your own personal touches too. Above all enjoy the process,” says Jean-Philippe. “Bouillabaisse is a bit of an adventure, and if you loosely stick to the ingredients below. You can’t really go wrong.” SERVES 6 Ingredients 20ml olive oil 1kg fish bones with heads (gurnard, red mullet, rascasse or dorade) 60ml Pernod 200ml white wine 1 fennel bulb 2 carrots 1 small leek 2 sprigs of thyme 1 bay leaf 3 cloves of garlic 2 celery sticks A pinch of saffron 200gm tomato purée Water Salt and black pepper Preparation 1. Roughly cut all the vegetables to about 1 inch cubes. Sear the vegetables with oil to a nice golden colour, then add the fish bones. If you don’t like the look of the fish with their heads on, chop them off, but increase the weight accordingly. 2. Sweat for 3 to 4 minutes. Flambé with Pernod and add the white wine. Always use dry white wine. Sweet wine is for pudding, specific sauces or for drinking. 3. Pour the saffron, tomato purée, salt, pepper and cover with water, about 3 to 4 inches above the fish. Boil the bouillabaisse for 2 to 3 minutes then lower the heat for 2 hours. Mix with a hand blender and pass through a sieve. Season to taste. The sieve is important - the holes need to be about 2mm. Discard all the material left in the sieve. 4. You have now made the classic fish stew (bouillabaisse) JP-style to which any manner of fish can then be added. Some people like it quite liquid, but I prefer it to be like a thick soup between the texture of single and double cream and orange in colour. If you find your soup is getting too thick, pour in more water, or better still, fish stock. 5. Traditional bouillabaisse is made of scorpion fish, conger eel and gilt head bream. However, I prefer to add fillets of locally caught fish such as bass, red mullet, gurnard and John Dory together with some steamed mussels and scored squid. 6. Cut the fillets into strips that are about 10-12cms long, smaller if you prefer. Make sure the pan is very hot and then cook them skin down in olive oil for about one minute to a minute and a half. When you see the edges start to go a bit crispy, take the pan off the heat. 7. Now turn the fish over and leave the pieces to finish. They will cook slowly, but if they have not cooked enough flash them back on the heat. The fish should be very moist in the middle and not over cooked. If anything, slightly under cooked is better as the heat of the soup will carry on cooking them. 8. Meanwhile in another pan cook the squid scored side down being careful it doesn’t spit. It will start to caramelise - then place it under a grill for one minute. 9. Put your mussels straight into the soup and they will cook. It is important that they are very fresh. They will take about two minutes and will open up when they are ready to eat. SOME SEAFOOD STEW TIPS How to prepare squid Place the squid in a clean chopping board. First, cut off the tentacles just below the eyes. Then gently pull the eyes which should come away, bringing the guts and ink sack with them. Remove the ears and the quill from inside its body, which is like a transparent piece of plastic. Then give it a really good rinse inside and out. Cut it in half and open it out like a wallet. Score inside all over the body with a very sharp knife, being careful not to cut right through. This will tenderise it. Getting the timings right You need two frying pans – one for the fish fillets and the other for the squid. The grill should be on and the ready-prepared soup warming through. When it is hot, add the mussels and cook the squid and fish fillets. Know if your fish is fresh Freshness is the most important thing. The body must be shiny and the gills a vibrant red. The fish must also be very firm when you hold it. You can also ask the fishmonger to fillet your fish. Presentation is everything Place the fish soup in bowls and stack the fish in middle. Finish with chopped chilli and serve with rouille, toasted bread croutons and a little grated Gruyère cheese. Serve with a class of Sancerre or a glass of Albarani – a fresh aromatic white wine prized by the locals in Spain that matches well with fish and seafood. Any left over bouillabaisse, not the fish, can be frozen and re-heated for another day. Frequently Asked Questions About Making Bouillabaisse What makes Bouillabaisse different from regular fish soup? Bouillabaisse relies on specific Mediterranean rockfish, heavy saffron seasoning, and a rapid boiling technique that rapidly emulsifies the olive oil and fish gelatin into a rich, thick broth rather than a clear soup. What is rouille sauce made of? Rouille is a traditional garlic mayonnaise enriched with saffron, chili or cayenne pepper, olive oil, and often breadcrumbs or cooked potato to give it structure. It is spread on toasted bread and floated in the hot broth. Can you substitute local fish in a home Bouillabaisse? Yes. While classic Marseille recipes use specific Mediterranean rockfish (like scorpionfish and red mullet), you can make a superb version using a mix of firm white ocean fish (like cod, gurnard, or sea bass), oily fish, and local shellfish.

✨ Cornwall’s Most Extraordinary Landscape Mullion Cove on the Lizard Peninsula, The Lizard is the big granddaddy of all our West Country headlands – one vast cape stretching a dozen miles south from what could be regarded as the Cornish mainland into an azure oceanic world, and this journey southwards allows it to have a unique environment all of its own. It is a headland of headlands, a cape of immense variety, a windswept netherworld of surprise and delight. The Lizard contains some of the West Country’s best beaches and coves and also some of its bleakest landscapes. It boasts deep woods and hidden demesnes; it has a helicopter graveyard, a massive airfield and even an Earth Station equipped with massive dishes you can see for miles. If you wanted to go somewhere very, very different but not leave the region, then the Lizard would be the place for you. I can never go there without thinking I’ve travelled to another country. It is more Brittany than Britain – you somehow feel that you ought to be handing over a visa or passport as you drive past the big security fence of RNAS Culdrose. SEE MORE CORNISH COAST PATH LOCATIONS HERE Fishing boats at Cadgwith cove 🌍 Britain’s Most Southerly Point The Lizard is the closest you can get in the UK to the equator without getting your feet wet which, needless to say, makes it one of the warmest places in Britain. It is also made of weird and wonderful rocks you’ll be hard pushed to find anywhere else. Both these facts help make this remarkable peninsula to be quite different from anywhere else in these isles. Let’s start at that tip nearest the winter sun - you can be in no doubt as to where you are, simply because there’s a large sign declaring: “Most Southerly Point”. 👉 Learn more: https://www.visitcornwall.com/places/the-lizard Lizard Point with its old lifeboat station ⚓ Shipwreck Coast & Lifeboat History Ships need all the warning they can get when it comes to Lizard. The great southerly pointing cape is just about as hazardous a place as you can find anywhere around our shores. Which is why the RNLI built a lifeboat house in Polpeor Cove. Polpeor is set between the twin jaws of Lizard Head and Lizard Point, and has its very own treacherous reef called Vellan Drang just offshore. On a wild day it would be difficult to imagine a more dangerous place to launch a boat. Yet lifeboats went on missions from this hazardous place for over 100 years, and countless lives were saved. However, in 1961 the RNLI saw the error of its ways and sensibly relocated the local boat in the lee of Bass Point around the corner. 👉 RNLI station info: https://rnli.org/find-my-nearest/lifeboat-stations/lizard-lifeboat-station 🗺️ Lizard Point: Geography & Folklore Looking at a map, by the way, you could get slightly confused as to which point is actually the most southerly. The OS Explorer 103 has the headland a mile to the west as Lizard Point, but the National Trust booklet (the organisation owns much of the land around here) says that is more properly called Old Lizard Head, while the one just below the car park is Lizard Point proper. As this seems to be the headland commonly acknowledged as Britain's most southerly point, we will bow to the trust's superior knowledge. The trust leaflet also explains the story that lies behind nearby strangely named Pistol Meadow, situated between the two points. Nothing to do with firearms - the name comes from the Cornish 'pystyll' meaning waterfall. Some 200 bodies are buried there and you can still make out low mounds of graves inland from the grove of tamarisk trees. Lizard beaches In 1720 a troop ship called the Royal Anne ploughed into the rocks of the bay - you only have to look at the reefs to know that few survived. No Christian burial, just a mass grave. Some say you can still hear the cries of lost souls on a stormy night, or is it only the distant clanging of the shipping buoy? 👉 Visitor info: https://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/visit/cornwall/lizard-point Southern tip of England 🌿 Rare Wildlife & Unique Geology As iconoclastic places go, Lizard is pretty special. Not only is it the nation’s most southerly tip, the peninsula is also internationally important for plant and insect life. Rare sedges and tiny liverworts grow in the pools and puddles and the maritime heathlands are rich in interesting insects such as moths and spiders. The heather is a rare type known as erica vagans found nowhere else in Britain. 👉 Chough conservation: https://www.rspb.org.uk/birds-and-wildlife/chough Choughs in a field right down at The Lizard 🌱 Conservation & Changing Landscapes It was down at Britain’s most southerly car park the other day that I met Rachel Holder who is the National Trust’s warden for the immediate area. The trust owns a lot of land around here, which is a good thing because of all those rare plants. But Rachel was working on something far more prosaic . 👉 About the National Trust: https://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/visit/cornwall 🐦 The Return of the Chough Many folk are attracted to the point in springtime because they’ve heard about Cornwall’s extremely rare “national” bird. Cynics might believe it was a set-up job put in place by the regional tourist board, but the county’s long lost national emblem really has elected to make its home at the very tip of the Lizard close to the place where throngs of tourists come and go. The choughs are wild birds, not released examples, as is sometimes suggested. No one knows where they came from, though some experts suggest they crossed the Channel from France, which might have some anti-European Cornish diehards choking on their pasties. 🚁 Predannack Downs & The Helicopter Graveyard Away from the chough loving crowds here are an awful lot of other places around the peninsula that see very few visitors indeed. One such place is the remarkable helicopter graveyard at Predannack Downs. No longer accesssible to the public, alas, you used to be abe to stroll through these rotting machines. 👉 Aviation heritage: https://www.cornwallaviationheritagecentre.co.uk/ 🌅 Cadgwith: Cornwall’s Most Beautiful Fishing Village One of my favourite places on the Lizard is Cadgwith - one of the brightest jewels in Cornwall. Not so much a harbour, more an indentation in the rocks - but what a wonderful indentation it is, enjoying a greater dalliance with the sun than any other place in the kingdom. 👉 Explore Cadgwith: https://www.visitcornwall.com/places/cadgwith 🏝️ Kynance Cove: Cornwall’s Crown Jewel It certainly is, which is probably what brings some quarter of a million visitors a year to the actual tip of the peninsula and to the nearby tourist honey-trap, outrageously beautiful Kynance Cove. 👉 Visitor guide: https://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/visit/cornwall/kynance-cove Kynance Cove on a misty afternoon 🥾 Walking the Lizard Peninsula Perhaps we’ll have a go at that one day, but in the meantime you can read my account of the fabulous walk that’s to be enjoyed around Black Head, the mighty headland that guards the eastern flanks of the cape. 👉 Maps & routes: https://www.ordnancesurvey.co.uk/ Kikers between Lizard Point and Kynance Cove Serpentine Rock Serpentine was named in the 16th century by geologists who thought its dappled colourings resembled snake’s skin. The 20 square mile outcrop of the attractive rock which is centred at the end of the Lizard is unique in the UK. Originally formed deep in the Earth’s crust it has, over millions of years, been subjected to enormous pressures and high temperatures and the resultant differences in mineral content produce a rich, multicoloured veining. For the best part of 200 years local craftsmen have been quarrying and working the stone, and their small huts and workshops can still be seen at the end of the peninsula today. Nowadays only a few people are licensed to extract extremely limited amounts of the rock. It was not always so – in the mid-1800s there was quite an industry at work quarrying and working serpentine, and by 1883 20 men and three boys were being employed by the Poltesco Marble Company. Cheap marble imports, the Lizard’s remoteness and the serpentine’s weakness to deteriorate quickly in polluted exterior situations all helped to secure the industry’s demise. But the local families worked on and still produce all manner of gifts fashioned out of serpentine today - perhaps best known are the neatly turned lighthouses that by now must adorn a million mantelpieces around the world. National Trust on The Lizard The National Trust owns several separate coastal properties around the Lizard, which is a good thing as the organisation is determined to preserve this most unique and unusual environment. On the eastern seaboard there’s a smallish chunk at Lowland Point near St Keverne, Chynhallis Point next to Coverack, then a larger section stretching around Black Head and Dinas Cove. Further south there’s a glorious section from Polbream Point to Cadgwith, and immediately the other side of the village another property includes the famous Devil’s Frying Pan and continues, with one small gap, down to Church Cove under Landewednack. Travelling down the west coast the trust has land stretching from the estate at Loe Pool, down past Gunwalloe Fishing Cove to Halzephron Cliff, and includes the other Church Cove and Poldhu Cove. Then there’s Angrouse Cliff with its Marconi Monument and a couple of smallish sections just north and south of Mullion Cove. Further south we come to a larger plot at Predannack, which includes the old World War II airfield, and then there’s the well-known jewel in the Lizard’s crown – Kynance Cove. Coast path at Kennack Sands Frequently Asked Questions About Visiting The Lizard, Cornwall What is special about The Lizard in Cornwall? The Lizard Peninsula is the most southerly point of mainland Great Britain. It is famous for its rare green-and-red serpentine rock, dramatic cliffs, historic Lizard Lighthouse, and as a primary habitat for the rare Cornish chough. Can you walk from Lizard Point to Kynance Cove? Yes, there is a stunning 2.5-mile (4 km) section of the South West Coast Path connecting Lizard Point to Kynance Cove. The walk offers spectacular cliff-top Atlantic views and takes about 1 to 1.5 hours one-way. Where do you park for Lizard Point? There is a National Trust car park located near Lizard Point (SatNav postcode TR12 7NT), as well as parking around Lizard village green, just a short walk from the headland.

Showing Visitors the Best of Exmoor If you love a place with a passion, then you can’t help but also be in love with the pleasant pastime of showing others around the particular area of which you are so fond. That is what a retired Swiss mountain guide once said to me as I showed him around the vast and beautiful corner of the West Country that is my own glorious backyard. My old friend Hans Forrar died a while ago - but I was thinking about the innovative Swiss tourism boss who basically invented the concept of “eating the view” . A few years ago I took him on a tour of Exmoor and Hans said: “I can see you are like me, Martin. You get great pleasure from showing other people the place you love so much. When you retire from journalism, you should become a local guide.” Well, that ain’t gonna happen for a long long time yet, I hope. But if I was guiding people around Exmoor and they wanted a very pleasant short walk, then this is one of the many I’d prescribe. IF YOU ARE ENJOYING THIS ARTICLE SEE OTHER EXMOOR WALKS HERE Cloutsham and the East Water Valley Cloutsham, in the Horner Valley river system, offers an ideal location for both woodland and ridge walking - plus, if you are planning to dine al-fresco in the glorious weather, there are numerous perfect picnic spots down along East Water under the mighty ramparts of Dunkery Beacon. An excellent hour-long jaunt from East Water takes you up past the picturesque farm at Cloutsham and along the Stoke Pero lane a few hundred yards to the point where a footpath cuts off across the fields to pass the remains of the deserted medieval village at Bagley. The slopes of Dunkery above Cloutsham and Bagley The Lost Medieval Village of Bagley This long lost place is mentioned in the Domesday Book which records there was half a virgate (an area of land - a quarter of a hide) and a “demesne of one plough with two bordars who share half a plough”. It is only when you read that there are 50 acres of pasture and 12 acres of woodland that you get a whiff of the real nature of Bagley's wild surroundings on the side of Exmoor's highest hill. Nature eventually overcame the endeavours of man in the remote place - not single a abode remains today. The community was abandoned long, long ago so that you have difficulty finding as much as a low mound, let alone a wall, though I have heard that garden flowers still make an occasional showing in this lonesome spot. Winter beech trees just above Bagley Dicky's Path and Spectacular Exmoor Views Our walks climbs south from this forlorn but beautiful place onto Goosemoor Common where it joins idyllic Dicky’s Path. This sensationally scenic trail then takes you east along the cool and airy north-facing flanks of Dunkery and is a matter of views, views, views, all the way. You also have a better than 50 percent chance of spotting wild red deer. Dicky’s Path continues on to Webber’s Post but, if you are getting too hot on the open hillside, you can leave it before it reaches that popular viewpoint and clamber down one of the steep wooded side-valleys like Hollow Combe to regain the East Water. Hiking above Dickey's Path on Dunkery However, I’d recommend carrying on around Easter Hill and past the car parks at Webber’s Post to reach the ridge-top woods of Luccombe Plantation. By following the path which runs along the very edge of the deep wooded defile you will eventually come to a path at Horner Plantation which shoots off down the very steep slope into the big valley. Highland cattle on Dunkery near Webber's Post Into the Horner Woodlands It descends through the trees to join the East Water Valley at a point under Cloutsham Ball, where it’s a matter of returning upstream. This is the part of the great semi-natural forest knowns as Horner woodlands which inspired that most brilliant of nature writers, Richard Jefferies, to note in his book Red Deer some 120 years ago: "I caught sight of a red mark in the midst of an acre of brake surrounded by oak. I was sure it was a stag instantly by the bright colour, by the position. He was standing in the fern beside a bush, with his head down as if feeding. A whistle - the sound was a moment or two reaching him - made him lift his head, and the upright carriage of the neck proved once again that it was a stag and not a hind." I have actually seen a stag standing in the same brake, and I also whistled to get him to lift his head. The old boy did so without too much alarm - and just like Jefferies' stag - he did not move "for he knew he was safe." At least, safe from me: I couldn't have run up that steep 200 metre slope to save my life. Returning Through Cool Woodland But I did have to continue up East Water to the cool woodland place under Cloutsham Farm where I’d left my car. There’s a well-beaten track that winds it’s way up through the trees to the place where the Cloutsham lane passes through a ford. Cloutsham's woods run up towards Dunkery Beacon After that the walker has to follow the lane, but there’s never much traffic here to worry about. And it’s cool. For some reason, Cloutsham always feels cool. Whether it’s the shade of the trees, or the cooling influence of the little burbling stream - or the fact that this glorious demesne is located directly north, so in the shadow of, one of Southern England’s highest hills - I know not. What I do know is that I’d rather be showing someone around heavenly Cloutsham on a warm day than any other place in the world. Fact File Walk: Around the Cloutsham and Horner Valleys on Exmoor Difficulty: Fairly easy 2-hour walk Distance: 5 miles

The Arrival of Slavery in North America and Its Strange West Country Echo It was 400 years ago that the first African slaves arrived in what was then colonial North America. This grim anniversary resonates in an unexpected and uncomfortable way in one of the most remote bays in all of the West Country: Beady Pool, on the southern shores of St Agnes in the Isles of Scilly. In all my UK travels, this beach - remote in the extreme - is one of the most haunting places I have ever visited. Quick Guide to Beady Pool Highlight What to Expect Top Tip for Visitors Location & Access A remote, gravel-strewn bay on the southern tip of St Agnes, below Wingletang Downs. Accessible on foot via the circular coastal path from St Agnes quay. The Historic Beads Earthenware beads washed ashore from a 17th-century Dutch shipwreck linked to the slave trade. Search the high-tide gravel line after strong south-easterly storms for the best chance of spotting one. Scenery & Geology Weather-sculpted granite tors, wild heathland, and views across the Atlantic. Combine with a walk to Troy Town Maze, Castella Down, and St Warna’s Well. Museum Exhibits Historical context and original bead collections held on nearby St Mary's. Visit the Isles of Scilly Museum on St Mary's to see rare preserved examples. The Beads of Beady Pool, St Agnes, and Their Dark History The beads that gave Beady Pool its name were on their way to be used as bartering collateral in the Slave Trade when a Dutch ship went down just off Wingletang Downs. These tiny, colourful beads were meant to be exchanged for human lives. The first Africans to be taken to British North America arrived in Virginia in 1619, transported by a Dutch ship that had captured them from the Spanish. Before that, over half-a-million African captives had already been enslaved in Brazil. If you like this post visit our Cornwall & Isles of Scilly page to see more Slavery, Bristol, and the Debate Over Recompense 🏛️ Today, the legacy of the Slave Trade is visible throughout the UK. In Bristol, for example, debates over place names like Whiteladies Road and Blackboy Hill highlight the city’s historical connection to the trade—a port that profited significantly from human suffering. Recently, Bristol has removed some place names linked to notorious traders like Edward Colston, whose name had adorned public spaces for centuries. Elsewhere, the conversation continues: Should there be belated apologies? Should there be recompense? A Remote Bay With a Powerful Message But, as I say, no place in Southern Britain echoes the tragic history of the Slave Trade quite like Beady Pool. The beads found here are more than mere trinkets—they are potent symbols of a brutal chapter in human history. These diminutive baubles never fulfilled their heinous purpose. They went to the bottom of the sea before they could be used to barter for human lives. Today, visitors search for these beads, hoping to find a tiny memento from this tragic era. After a good south-easterly storm, the beads are sometimes washed ashore, offering a poignant reminder of the past. The Sinister Theory of the Bead Trade 🤔 The curator of the Isles of Scilly Museum once told me a disturbing theory about the bead trade. Some believe that slave traders were even more deceitful than originally thought. The museum holds beads of various types, some far more attractive than others, leading to speculation that barrels of cheap beads may have been topped with a shallow layer of valuable ones to deceive other traders. Historians face challenges identifying which ship carried these beads or their precise destination. Staff at the Isles of Scilly Museum have pored over the Shipwreck Index of the British Isles, finding only two possible wrecks near Wingletang—both unnamed and from the 18th century. Most of the beads are brown earthenware of 17th-century Rhineland provenance, and some were sent to the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam for identification. The Hunt for Beady Pool's Treasures 🏝️ Finding a local on St Agnes who will show you a necklace made of these "slave" beads isn’t easy—most examples are kept at the museum. However, John Peacock, the island’s boatman, recalls collecting them as a child. "They’re harder to find now," he once told me. "You really need a good south-easterly storm." Visitors to the island still search for beads on their hands and knees, scanning the gravel-strewn beach for the tell-tale glint of history. One visitor from Tresco, after 11 years of trying, finally found a bead—a tiny token of a terrible trade. A Sombre Reminder These beads may be small, but they carry the weight of an immense historical tragedy. They serve as a reminder of the world’s most heinous trade - a chapter in history that should never be forgotten. Fact File 📜 You can see Beady Pool beads at the Isles of Scilly Museum, St Mary’s. Frequently Asked Questions About Visiting Beady Pool, St Agnes Where is Beady Pool located? Beady Pool is a secluded bay situated on the southern coast of St Agnes in the Isles of Scilly, located directly beneath the granite tors of Wingletang Downs. Why is it called Beady Pool? The beach earned its name because small, colourful earthenware beads frequently washed ashore following the 17th-century wreck of a Dutch vessel off Wingletang Downs. The beads were originally intended as bartering cargo in the slave trade. Can you still find beads at Beady Pool today? Yes, visitors still occasionally find beads by scanning the gravel shoreline on their hands and knees, particularly after heavy south-easterly storms disturb the seabed. Many original examples are preserved at the Isles of Scilly Museum on St Mary's.

Mahon, located on the eastern shores of Menorca, is one of the most charming and unspoiled ports to be found in the Mediterranean. A few years ago we enjoyed a very laid-back and quite few days in town - and I really liked the place a lot. I would say it is one of the least spoilt and untouristy harbour towns anywhere around the Spanish coasts. Known locally as Maó, the town is distinct for its large, deep, natural harbour - which has brought it a great deal of history to the area down the centuries. Georgian Architecture and Historic Old Town Mahon's roots date back to antiquity, with influences from the British and Spanish visible in its architecture and culture. Notably, the town's architecture displays a mix of Georgian style, thanks to the 18th-century British presence, alongside traditional Spanish designs. This blend gives Mahon a unique character, distinct from other Balearic or Spanish towns. Needless to say, the interesting heart of Mahon is its old town. Here, narrow streets weave past historic buildings, some housing shops and cafes. You explore at your own pace - there is no need to rush in this community which has a distinct laid-back atmosphere. IF YOU ENJOY THIS POST CHECK OUR FEATURE ON Menorca's Wildest Corner Quick Guide to Mahón Paste this structured comparison grid near the top of your post (just under your opening introductory paragraph). It creates a rich visual highlight for both human readers and search engine crawlers: Highlight What to Expect Top Tip for Visitors Mahón Harbour One of the largest natural harbours in the world (5km long), lined with yachts and seafood spots. Take the harbour boat tour or walk the lower promenade at sunset. Historic Old Town Narrow Mediterranean streets featuring Georgian bay windows from 18th-century British rule. Use the public elevator (ascensor) to move effortlessly between port and town. Isla del Rey A historic island in the middle of the port housing an 18th-century naval hospital and art galleries. Catch the short water taxi from the port for a 2-hour morning trip. Local Gastronomy World-famous salted Mahón Cheese (Formatge de Maó) and local Xoriguer Gin. Visit the Mercat de Peix (Fish Market) for tapas and cheese tasting. As we’ve said, the number one feature of Mahon is the giant and very picturesque harbour. Stretching over five kilometres, it is actually one of the largest natural harbours in the world - and as such it is a significant feature that defines the town’s history, culture, and daily life. Isla del Rey and Naval Heritage Over the centuries, it has seen the footprints of the British, French, and Spanish, each leaving their mark on the town and the harbour. This has resulted in a unique blend of architectural styles and cultural influences evident in the harbour area. Mahon harbour's deep, sheltered waters made it a strategic naval point. It has played host to numerous historical events, including naval battles and trade. Today, the remnants of its military significance can still be seen in the form of old fortifications that dot the harbour's edge. The modern-day harbour is a lively blend of the old and the new. Along the waterfront, one can find a variety of restaurants, cafes, and shops. These establishments often occupy buildings that hint at the harbour's historical past. Boating and yachting are central to the harbour’s activities. The sight of yachts and boats of varying sizes adds a dynamic element to the calm waters. The harbour also serves as a starting point for various boat tours, which offer a unique perspective of the town and its surroundings from the water. The harbour is also a hub for various events and activities. The annual Mare de Déu de Gràcia festival, for instance, involves a procession to the harbour and is a highlight in the town’s cultural calendar. Additionally, the harbour is often the venue for outdoor concerts and events, especially in the summer months. CHECK OUR POST ON POROS, GREECE Environmental conservation is also a focus. Efforts are made to maintain the ecological balance of the harbour waters, ensuring they remain a safe haven for marine life. One interesting aspect is the presence of Isla del Rey, an island in the middle of the harbour. It holds historical significance and is the site of an old hospital dating back to the 18th century. The island, accessible by boat, is a popular spot for visitors interested in history and natural beauty. Mahón Cheese and Menorcan Gastronomy Cuisine in Mahon is reflective of its cultural mix. The locally produced Mahon cheese, with its slightly salty taste, is a result of the island's sea winds and high humidity. Local markets offer a chance to taste and purchase this and other local products. Frequently Asked Questions About Visiting Mahón, Menorca What is Mahón famous for? Mahón (known locally as Maó) is world-famous for possessing one of the largest natural harbours on the planet, its distinct 18th-century British Georgian architecture, traditional Xoriguer gin, and rich local Mahón cheese. Is Mahón harbour walkable? Yes. The grand five-kilometre harbour promenade is lined with relaxed cafes and seafood restaurants. A convenient public elevator connects the lower waterfront harbour directly with the cliff-top old town streets above. What is Isla del Rey in Mahón harbour? Isla del Rey is a small historic island situated right in the middle of Mahón harbour. It features an 18th-century naval hospital built during the British presence and is accessible via short boat rides from the main port.

Tate temporarily relocated less than 500 metres to Mann Island's RIBA North Eclectic Liverpool was a centre of creativity long before European Capital of Culture status was awarded almost two decades ago. The North West must-visit tourism magnet, divided by red and blue footy fans, today remains united in offering green light to crafty culture vultures. Modern Comfort at Holiday Inn Express Liverpool Central Holiday Inn Express Liverpool Central's quality comfort and convenience affords easy exploration of beating "art" of the city. Perfectly positioned within 15-minute walk of Lime Street Rail Station transport hub, ideally located modern midscale hotel's daily housekept 125 rooms across magnificent seven floors feature free high-speed Wi-Fi, 43-inch Smart TV, workstation with easy-access USB points. Improved beds boast soft or firm pillows while sofa bed, power shower, safe, reclining chair, hair dryer, iron, ironing board, tea and coffee making facilities complete home from home feel, pets also welcome. And, Godsend during recent heatwaves, welcome air-con comfortably lowers room temperature when mercury rises. Complimentary Express Start Breakfast or Grab & Go options are available, featuring fresh fruit, cereals, pastries and selected hot items. Extended fully stocked bar and lounge, showing Sky TV channels, alongside inviting open lobby, provides meals and snacks as well as hot and cold drinks. Kids eat free while IHG One Rewards members enjoy exclusive benefits including, subject to availability, 2pm late check-out to alleviate pre-train strain. Exploring Liverpool’s Iconic Galleries & Cultural Trail Nearby attractions, catering for fans of contemporary and classic, traditional to timeless masterpieces, range from Bluecoat to Williamson galleries, via Victoria, Lady Lever, Metal Culture, Open Eye, OUTPUT and Royal Standard sites. Also, Foundation for Art and Creative Technology ... and that's a FACT! Local highlights include Walker Gallery and Tate Liverpool, covering installations ranging from "Priestess of Punk" Vivienne Westwood: Designer in Focus display - until October 2026 - to family-friendly Mildred's Albert Dock Art Trail. Walker is well worth the walk, among few galleries succeeding in seamlessly segueing sculptures, paintings and decorative art spanning 13th century to present day, contemporary installations showcasing Lucian Freud, Bridget Riley and recently departed late, great David Hockney, John Moores Painting Prize winning entries vie for visitors' attention with traditional pieces from Renaissance masters, Tudor portraits, Victorian and Pre-Raphaelite collections. And, in our case, spectacularly striking wedding venue graced by family friend Grace's guests. Tate Liverpool at Mann Island & Family Art Trails Temporarily relocated less than 500 metres to Mann Island's Royal Institute of British Architects North site during Royal Albert Dock multi million pound reimagining, Tate Lite still merits visit, offering two exhibition areas, family zone and shop, activities, talks, tours and creative workshops focusing on art, architecture and ecology. Purr-fect introduction to art comes in free form of book-based Mildred's Albert Dock Art Trail, little ones taking great delight in finding six quayside works, complemented by five-letter word games, throughout self-led trail. Paraphrasing professional Scouser Pete Wylie's Nineties Merseyside anthem "Art as big as my hometown, lay me down by water cool, art as big as the city, art as big as Liverpool". Literally "Central" to such eclectic city break exploration, be in with Holiday Inn Express crowd at highly recommended accommodation - attractive and affordable in equally impressive measure - that has warm welcomes, with smiles wider than nearby Mersey, down to a fine art. Vivienne Westwood Exhibition at Walker Art Gallery Walkthrough Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ Section) Adding an FAQ section at the bottom of the post helps capture Google's "People Also Ask" search queries and adds structure for your readers. Where is the Holiday Inn Express Liverpool Central located? The hotel is located in central Liverpool, less than a 15-minute walk from Liverpool Lime Street Rail Station, making it an ideal base for exploring the city's key galleries, shopping districts, and cultural landmarks on foot. What art exhibitions are currently showing at the Walker Art Gallery in Liverpool? The Walker Art Gallery features collections spanning from 13th-century Renaissance masters and Tudor portraits to modern and contemporary works. Special displays include the "Priestess of Punk" Vivienne Westwood: Designer in Focus exhibition (running through October 2026), alongside pieces by Lucian Freud, Bridget Riley, and David Hockney. Is Tate Liverpool open during its Royal Albert Dock renovation? Yes, Tate Liverpool has temporarily relocated less than 500 metres to the Royal Institute of British Architects (RIBA) North site at Mann Island while its main Royal Albert Dock building undergoes a major multi-million-pound redevelopment.

Exploring somewhere you pass through often, but have never bothered to truly investigate before… That could be one of the themes of these articles - most of us do it, after all - we all have regular routes we must travel for multitudinous reasons, and they’ll take us through places, that over time, we take for granted. But stopping and exploring these “nether regions” can pay dividends. Marlborough Road across the high downs to the Vale of Pewsey That is the theme of this article. Most West Country readers will know Salisbury Plain thanks to Stonehenge and other ancient remains - and those living in the far west will have often passed across the strange, wide-open, Wessex plateau on the A303, one of the two main arteries in and out of Devon and Cornwall. I’ve used the highway hundreds of times, but never before have I stopped to reconnoitre fascinating, beguiling, Salisbury Plain. Last week I did just that, having received an invitation to stay in a Wiltshire vineyard… Liba Vineyard is only five minutes off the A303 and just a couple more minutes from Stonehenge - so I took up the offer of a stay in one of their new glamping pods precisely because I’d never ventured into the enigmatic Plain in all those years of to-ing-and-fro-ing to London. Chris Reynolds walking through his Liba Vineyard in Wiltshire A New Life off the A303: The Story Behind Liba Vineyard First, the story behind the new vineyard and glamping site… Former London management consultant and Fowey native, Chris Reynolds, with his wife Louise Marshall, swapped corporate burnout in the capital for a new life in the countryside. Seeking a better environment to raise their two young boys, they established Liba Vineyard on a south-facing slope just minutes off the A303, and not far from Salisbury. Liba Vineyard Combining glamping with sustainable viticulture, the site features 4,000 vines planted with modern, disease-resistant hybrid grape varieties ideal for the local climate. Managed under organic and biodynamic principles, the vineyard operates as a balanced ecosystem - utilising roaming alpacas for winter grazing and weed control, alongside peacocks, ducks, chickens, and bees. Beyond the existing three luxury woodland glamping pods, Chris and Louise have permission to expand and are currently developing the farm barns to house a future farm shop, café, and tasting room for visitors. They’re lovely people, and their little glamping enterprise is first class. We were there at the height of the heatwave last week and I was a little apprehensive about being in a pod with no air-conditioning, but we needn’t have worried. The shade of the surrounding trees helped and Chris had installed a large fan to help keep temperatures down. One of the glamping pods at Liba Vineyard The couple have gone for quality. “We could have installed double the number of pods had we gone for cheaper options, but we wanted to do everything right and get the best models we could afford and the fittings to go with them,” Chris told me. So the “eco-conscious” glamping pods blend rustic charm with luxury. They’re centrally heated (not that we needed that) and sleep up to four - each features a double bed with premium bedding, a double sofa-bed, and a en-suite bathroom complete with a walk-in shower and toilet. With a fully equipped kitchen inside, every pod extends outdoors to a seating area with a fire pit and its own private wood-fired hot tub or soaking bath. Interior of one of the glamping pods “We wanted a site that was welcoming to guests and safe for our children, but also one that works with nature rather than against it. So we’re creating a healthy, biodiverse ecosystem where everything works together,” said Chris. Speaking about the site’s location, he added: “A lot of visitors think they’re going to use it as a base to explore, but actually, when people arrive and settle into their pods in the woodland, they look out over the vineyard, watch a sunset and relax in a hot tub. And, well… they cancel their plans. They just chill out and unwind.” Beyond the Pods: Journeying Into the Chalk River Valleys I can understand visitors from an urban-environment wanting to do that, but because we spend most of our lives in deep countryside within a woodland setting, we were happy to explore. The site is actually on Boscombe Down, near the RAF base and not far from the village of Porton, home of the famous Porton Down government facility. And here’s the first thing to say about the greater Salisbury Plain area… It is very much a game of two halves - the landscape is dominated by the high plateau, but intersected here and there by pretty river valleys. Porton is in one such valley - the A338 runs north-south along it, so you can either turn right and head directly down to Salisbury, or turn left into the heartlands of the great plateau. A typical Salisbury Plain scene - a ring of trees beyond a field of ripening cereal Our route took us north, across the A303, up to Tidworth (a military town if ever I saw one) and then, north-west to the village of Everleigh where we took a quiet lane called Marlborough Road across the high downs to the Vale of Pewsey. As an unqualified visitor to the area, I’d say this marvellous byway offers the very best of Salisbury Plain. It is, for lack of a better phrase, quintessential Salisbury Plain. You travel some six miles across the high downs on a hedge-less road, admiring tree circles and odd prehistoric shapes and remains dotted here and there in the wide open landscape. Exactly 200 years ago (in his Rural Rides), here’s what William Cobbett had to say about the spot where this lonely road catches its first view of the Vale of Pewsey… “I had often heard this valley described as one of the finest pieces of land in all England. From the top of a very high part of the down, with a steep slope towards the valley, I first saw this Valley of Avon - and a most beautiful sight it was! “Villages, hamlets, large farms, towers, steeples, fields, meadows, orchards, and very fine timber trees, scattered all over the valley... Great as my expectations had been, they were more than fulfilled.” Another view of the Vale of Pewsey taken from Cobbett's favourite spot I read this quotation on an interpretation board they’ve erected at the very spot. Next to it they’ve built a flight of half a dozen steps which you can climb to get the very best of the panoramic view. Even up there though, you will not see the famous Pewsey White Horse, which has been etched into the hill just a few hundred yards away. The contours are so steep you need to be away from the hill to see it. We called into Pewsey, bought a lacklustre pasty (Pewsey seems limited for choice), and enjoyed an impromptu picnic by the harbour. “The what!” I hear you cry… Yes, we are far inland and many miles from the sea. But just outside the village lies Pewsey Wharf on the Kennet and Avon Canal. Once a 19th-century industrial hub dealing in timber, grain, and gravel, the wharf has been restored and is now a peaceful haven for narrowboats. Visitors can enjoy waterside walks, towpath cycling or simply a relaxed picnic or pub stop by the water. IF YOU ARE ENJOYING THIS POST YOU MIGHT LIKE OUR LOOK AT THE COTSWOLDS --- CLICK HERE Looking east along the canal at Pewsey Looming nearby is Martinsell Hill, which must be one of the steepest escarpments in the region - it certainly offered fine views of a very hot and dusty vale the day we climbed to the top. The Unbroken Wilderness of the Military Training Area Directly south-west of Pewsey lies the massive untamed expanse of central Salisbury Plain - and more specifically, the empty wilderness of the Salisbury Plain Training Area (SPTA). Spanning roughly 150 square miles, it forms the largest military training area in the UK. Vast tracts have been restricted to the public for over a century, allowing this high chalk downland to unwittingly become one of Europe’s most extraordinary nature reserves. No public roads cross it and the landscape is largely untouched by modern intensive agriculture. Its sweeping grasslands roll away to unbroken horizons, harbouring rare flora and fauna as well as ghost villages such as Imber, evacuated in 1943 for military use. The poor villagers were never allowed to return. This vast landscape is criss-crossed by tank tracks - indeed there are road signs here and there on the highways and lanes which circumnavigate much of this strange demesne, warning you of “tanks crossing”. Red flags fly and you can hear artillery fire during military manoeuvres. The sheer scale of the place evokes a striking, prehistoric majesty that feels very far removed from the rest of busy modern England. Indeed, I’d say it’s not really a very English landscape - to my eyes, the area is more reminiscent of the great plains of central and northern France. Despite its military status, the Plain is not entirely locked down and you can explore on foot, provided you stick to the rules. I yearned to enter this fascinating and unspoilt zone but, as I’ve said, we were there in a heatwave and the idea of hiking across those exposed, tree-less chalk downs did not appeal. I hope to return one day. Our consolation was a circumnavigation, starting from Pewsey along the B3098 through villages like Edington, Bratton, and Urchfont. This drive gave us dramatic, towering views of the northern escarpment - we then took the A360 back down to Stonehenge, which gave us a taste of the high plain. We even saw tanks roaring across the highway at one point, throwing up huge clouds of dust as they climbed away toward the Coppenhill Military Training Village. The military presence is everywhere. I knew Salisbury Plain was big, but I had no real idea just how vast the MOD influence was in these parts. As an escape from the heat of the Plain we dropped down to Salisbury for a late afternoon snack and a look at the mighty cathedral - but perhaps more about that another day. Martinsell Hill above Pewsey Featured Stay Liba Vineyard & Eco-Glamping Location Porton Road, Porton, Salisbury, Wiltshire, SP4 0NF (5 mins off A303) The Vibe Biodynamic 3-acre vineyard surrounded by woodland, roaming alpacas, peacocks, and bees Accommodation 3 luxury woodland pods (Elder, Beech, Hawthorn) Pod Amenities En-suite shower, kitchen, double bed, sofa bed, central heating, private fire pit & wood-fired hot tub/soaking bath Pricing From £149 per night (based on a self-catering two-night stay for 4 people) Contact & Booking Email: info@libavineyard.co.uk Phone: +44 (0)7769 243 260 Website: liba-vineyard.co.uk Finn the lurcher asleep in one of the glamping pods at Liba Vineyard Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ Section) Where is Liba Vineyard located? Liba Vineyard is situated on Porton Road near the village of Porton on Boscombe Down, Wiltshire. It sits just five minutes off the main A303 highway and roughly 15 minutes from Stonehenge and Salisbury. Can you walk across the Salisbury Plain Training Area (SPTA)? Yes, but with strict restrictions. The Ministry of Defence maintains around 300 miles of public rights of way across the Plain. However, around 70 miles cross active live-firing ranges. When red flags fly (or red lamps burn at night), access is strictly forbidden. Walkers can also follow the 30-mile Imber Range Perimeter Path outside active firing periods. What varieties of grapes are grown at Liba Vineyard? The vineyard was hand-planted in 2024 with nearly 4,000 vines featuring disease-resistant hybrid grape varieties including Cabaret Noir, Sauvignac, Calardis Blanc, and Solaris. These varieties thrive in the local climate under organic and biodynamic principles. What is Pewsey Wharf? Pewsey Wharf is a restored 19th-century industrial canal basin located on the Kennet and Avon Canal just outside Pewsey village. Today it serves as a peaceful waterside spot for narrowboat mooring, towpath walks, and picnics.