The famous Pulteney Weir in the heart of Bath What a jewel Bath is. Yes, I know… That is stating the obvious - but it was the overriding impression I took home after spending a night in “the biggest village in England” last week. That phrase is, of course, not factual. Bath is not a village. But I’ve always thought that it somehow feels like one. Perhaps it’s the close sense of intimacy of the place the small city seems to enjoy - aided and abetted by the steep hills which protect its wonderful honey-stone walls and buildings on almost all sides. Rediscovering Bath After Decades And I do have one qualification for being able to make the claim. Back in the early Nineties, I spent months filming an hour-long documentary about the city of Bath - peering through a lens at every Palladian pediment and hidden alleyway until I felt I knew its architectural soul better than my own garden. Back then I got to know quite a few locals and I can remember they would often mention this “big village” thing. That hasn’t gone away. Unlike many towns and cities where a suburban sprawl grows and grows around the edges. Perhaps thanks to those steep hills, Bath has remained diminutive with its perimeters well defined. The Circus is one of the must see sights of Bath Seeing Bath Anew It is strange to return to a place you once knew by heart after a gap of decades. Returning last week, I realised that while memories are durable, they really do lack the punch of the present. The fact that I was accompanied by my wife helped - she was bowled over by the place. As we stepped out into the spring sunshine, the city didn’t just look familiar to me - it looked almost reborn - its honey-hued stone glowing with a warmth that felt almost theatrical. That golden glow is, of course, the signature of the place. Under a clear sky, the Middle Jurassic oolitic limestone - the famous Bath stone - acts as a giant reflector, bouncing light into every corner of the city. Hotel Indigo Bath - our temporary home for this wonderful visit Exploring Bath on Foot We spent hours just wandering around. Which is by far the best thing to do because Bath is a pedestrian’s dream. A place where the grand scale of the Royal Crescent flows down into the intimate, narrow passageways that smell of roasting coffee and old books. And the pedestrian soon understands that it is a city of layers, where Roman foundations support Georgian ambitions, and where modern life manages to thrive without bruising the ancient scenery. The famous Royal Crescent Royal Crescent & Georgian Life We drifted, as so many do, up toward the Royal Crescent and visited its excellent museum - which really did put bones onto the recent BBC TV series we’ve been watching. The Other Bennet Sister - which centres on Mary Bennet, the oft-overlooked middle sister from Jane Austen’s Pride and Prejudice - is good fun and excellently done and visiting the museum at No. 1 Royal Crescent helped put the show into real-life perspective. 👉 https://no1royalcrescent.org.uk/ The end-of-terrace property has been masterfully restored to show exactly how a Georgian household functioned during the city’s social peak. Walking through those rooms, you can almost hear the rustle of silk and the scratching of quills. Dining room at the Royal Crescent Museum Walk across into the centre of the Royal Crescent’s green space and you are struck by the sheer scale of the vision. The audacity of the architects who looked at these green hills and decided to build a sweeping palace for the people to live in. It is a feat of urban planning that has never quite been bettered. The Circus and Bath’s Architectural Curves It’s just a short walk down Brock Street to The Circus, and as we strolled I was able to tell my wife how this are is known as Bath’s Big Question Mark. I’m learned that years ago while on regular filming sorties with a hot-balloon company - from aloft it’s easy to see how The Crescent supplies the upper curve while Brock st runs down to join the circular Circus as the dot at the bottom. We Stayed at the Hotel Indigo Bath But by now the shadows were lengthening and we were ready for a different kind of sanctuary. We found it in the form of Hotel Indigo Bath. Located on South Parade, the hotel is a triumph of restoration that bridges the gap between the city I remembered and the vibrant destination it is today (you can check live availability and current rates for Hotel Indigo Bath on Booking.com). It occupies a handsome Georgian terrace which opened its doors after a multi-million-pound project. People are always on about location, location, location. Well, the Hotel Indigo Bath sits on a peaceful street, tucked just far enough away from the tourist thrum of the Abbey and the Roman Baths to feel like a private discovery, yet it’s only a few hundred yards from the railway station. Bath Abbey in afternoon spring sunshine Inside Hotel Indigo Bath And the restoration is a kind of masterclass in how to treat a Grade I listed building with both respect and a sense of humour. There are 154 rooms in the main building, plus another eight in the private house at No 5 Pierrepont St. And the first thing to say is that they have not gone for a “one size fits all” corporate look. Instead, the rooms are themed to reflect the very thing we were there to celebrate: the city’s story. Brasserie at the Hotel Indigo Bath The hotel has “Literary Hideaway” rooms and “Architectural Beauty” rooms, all outfitted with the modern comforts one expects - Hypnos beds and spa-inspired bathrooms -while reflecting the storytelling spirit of the novelists and architects who put Bath on the map. We stayed in one of the rooms that felt like a quiet nod to the city’s past, yet with all the modern amenities - Nespresso machines, high-speed Wi-Fi, and 40-inch screens- none of which clashed with the historic bones of the building. The owners obviously understand that while people visit Bath for the history, they expect comfort. But then, the Hotel Indigo group is far from what’s known as a “cookie-cutter” hotel chain. While many global brands aim for uniformity so that a room in Paris looks identical to one in Plymouth, Indigo takes the opposite tack. The attention to detail in the restoration is impressive. Dining in Bath: The Elder & Brasserie Beau One of the highlights of our stay, and a sign of how much the city’s gastronomic scene has matured since my last visit, was of course the dining. Within the walls of Hotel Indigo Bath sits The Elder, run by the multi-award-winning West Country restaurateur Mike Robinson. It’s an independent powerhouse with a fierce focus on sustainability, seasonality, and wild produce. 👉 https://theelder.co.uk/ However, it was Brasserie Beau, located on the hotel’s ground floor, that caught our fancy for a more relaxed, celebratory atmosphere. It’s a 100-cover sanctuary with a lovely outdoor terrace - perfect for a sunny afternoon in April. Under the guidance of head chef Bruce Theobald, the kitchen champions the best of British. The menu evolves daily based on what the seasons dictate and what small producers can provide. We sat there, watching the light fade over the city, and agreed that this was exactly what a city break should represent - fine ingredients, handled with care, in a setting that feels tucked away from the world. 👉 http://bath.hotelindigo.com/dine/brasserie-beau Culture Stop: The Holburne Museum Walking through Bath again made me realise that while, the city’s golden walls haven’t changed much, the way we experience them has. Three decades ago, I was focused on making a film with a crew and a production budget and all the stresses that go with that. Now, as an old codger with nothing but a 1500 word article to write, I had time to relax and really take the place in. The UNESCO World Heritage site doesn't feel like a museum; it feels like a place where people still live, work, and, most importantly, enjoy the finer things in life. The Holburne Museum The stroll back to South Parade in the twilight was a reminder of why this city remains a jewel. The streetlights began to flicker on, casting long shadows against the honey-coloured facades. There is a specific quietness to Bath in the evening, a sense that the city is settling down after centuries of hosting the great and the good. We felt like part of that long tradition. 👉 https://holburne.org/ Holburne Museum interior displays Why Bath Always Draws You Back As we prepared to leave the next day, I looked up at the facade of Hotel Indigo Bath one last time. It stood there, glowing in the morning sun, a bridge between the city’s past and its vibrant present. It took me 30 years to come back, but as we walked the short distance to the car park, my wife was already planning our next visit. It won’t take another 30 to return. There is something about Bath that gets under your skin, a golden magnetism that pulls you back. Editorial Note: Some links in this guide are affiliate links. If you book accommodation through them, Martin Hesp Food & Travel may earn a small commission. ✅ FACT FILE Hotel Indigo Bath Hotel Indigo Bath is set in a Georgian Terrace on South Parade, just steps from the city centre and three minutes walk from Bath railway station. Opened in 2020 after a major restoration, the hotel features 154 rooms including themed "Literary Hideaway" and "Romance & Mischief" rooms. An additional private house, No 5 Pierrepont St, offers 8 en-suite guest rooms and a private courtyard. All rooms feature Hypnos beds, luxury linen, Nespresso machines, and high-speed Wi-Fi. The hotel offers two dining experiences: The Elder, an independently run restaurant by Mike Robinson, and Brasserie Beau. Located on the ground floor with an outdoor terrace, Brasserie Beau is open seven days a week from 12pm to 9:30pm. Led by Head Chef Bruce Theobald, it champions British ingredients with menus that evolve daily according to the seasons. Location: South Parade, Bath, BA2 4AB. Telephone: 01225 460441. Email: enquiries@bath.hotelindigo.com. Website: http://bath.hotelindigo.com/ Holburne Museum We also visited the Holburne Museum at the end of the magnificent Great Pulteney Street. There is something civilising about the Holburne - it’s not just the world-class collection of fine and decorative arts inside, but the way the building sits within Sydney Gardens. It’s a reminder that Bath has always been a place where nature and artifice shake hands in perfect agreement. We spent an hour lost in the galleries and I particularly enjoyed the Don McCullin exhibition (running until May 4, 2026), featuring his haunting, recently captured studies of Roman sculptures alongside some of his most iconic and unflinching photojournalism from a seven-decade career. The famous Pulteney Bridge flower shop Frequently Asked Questions About Visiting Bath What is the best way to explore Bath on foot? Bath is exceptionally walkable. Most major attractions—including Bath Abbey, the Roman Baths, Pulteney Bridge, and The Circus—are within a 15-minute stroll of one another. Starting from South Parade or the train station, walking up through Brock Street to the Royal Crescent gives you the ultimate scenic tour of Georgian architecture. Where is the best place to stay in Bath for a weekend break? Hotel Indigo Bath on South Parade is an ideal central base. It is located just a three-minute walk from Bath Spa railway station and tucked away on a quiet Georgian terrace within easy walking distance of the main shopping streets, Abbey, and museums. What are the must-see museums in Bath? Key highlights include No. 1 Royal Crescent (a fully restored Georgian townhouse museum showing life in Jane Austen’s era), the Roman Baths, and The Holburne Museum at the end of Great Pulteney Street, which features world-class art collections and changing contemporary exhibitions. Where should you dine in Bath for local British produce? For sustainable, wild British game and regional produce, The Elder on South Parade is a top culinary destination. For a more relaxed, seasonal meal with a outdoor terrace, Brasserie Beau (located on the ground floor of Hotel Indigo Bath) offers excellent daily menus championing West Country ingredients.

Pint of Guinness in the "secret Garden" at the Luttrell Arms, Dunster Somerset is a county custom-made for walking. From the maritime cliffs of Exmoor and the red sandstone combes of the Quantock Hills to the dramatic ancient mounds rising out of the Somerset Levels, it is a landscape made for exploring on foot. But nothing completes a West Country stroll quite like the prospect of a cosy bar, a roaring fire, and a cool glass of regional ale or traditional farmhouse cider along the way. Here are six of the very best circular pub walks in Somerset, drawing on classic routes across coastal paths, historic deer parks, ancient hill forts, and peaceful marshland dales. ALSO CHECK OUR PUB WALKS IN DEVON AND OUR PUBS WALKS IN CORNWALL Culbone Church is the smallest complete church in the UK 1. The Culbone Coastal & Woodland Loop (Porlock Weir) Despite not being a churchgoer, visiting remote and arcane Culbone - home to the smallest complete church in England - evokes hallowed and spiritual sensations like nowhere else in the West Country. Tucked away in an enchanting glen high above the grey rocks of the Bristol Channel, you cannot reach Culbone by car; to experience its quiet magic, you must walk. Boats at high tide at Porlock Weir This dramatic six-mile circuit sets off from the harbour at Porlock Weir, winding past the thatched archway of Worthy Toll Road and climbing through fairytale-like Yearnor Wood. Here, Lady Lovelace once built a fantasy mansion flanked by miniature castles, tunnels, and stone carriageways engineered by Swiss mountaineers. After visiting the tiny 35-foot-long parish church, the route climbs up over Culbone Hill (keep an eye out for prehistoric stone rows among the pine trees) before looping back down through the quiet woods of Smalla Combe and Worthy to the sea. Fact File Distance: 6 miles Terrain: Coastal woodland paths and steep hill tracks (can be muddy in places). Recommended Map: OS Explorer OL9 (Exmoor). Pub Stop: The Ship Inn, Porlock Weir — Known locally as "The Bottom House," this thatched 13th-century inn sits right by the quay, serving local real ales and classic pub fare. The Exmoor coast towards Culbone, from Porlock Weir 2. Dunster Castle, Carhampton & The Coast (Blue Anchor) Where the parish meets the Bristol Channel at Blue Anchor, this varied six-mile hike offers an invigorating mix of maritime breezes, ancient village history, and parkland vistas. Dunster main street and castle, Starting near the seafront at Blue Anchor, the path marches inland alongside the West Somerset Railway before delivering you into the ancient Hundreds of Carhampton ("Cramp'n"). Passing the historic orchard behind the local pub—where the tradition of the midwinter Wassail has been celebrated for over a millennium—the trail ascends gently into the estate of Dunster Castle. Here you'll enjoy sweeping views across the Avill Valley before crossing the medieval Gallox Bridge. Pick your way through Dunster’s cobbles, cross beneath the main road, and head back along the beach from Dunster Marsh to Blue Anchor. Gallox Bridge, Dunster Fact File Distance: 6 miles Terrain: Fairly level paths, country lanes, and coastal high-tide tracks. Recommended Map: OS Explorer OL9 (Exmoor). Pub Stops: The Butcher's Arms, Carhampton — A classic village local situated right in the heart of historic Carhampton. The Luttrell Arms, Dunster — A grand 15th-century hotel and inn facing Dunster’s famous Yarn Market, perfect for a mid-walk lunch. Footpath sign at Blue Anchor 3. The Quantock Ridge & Bicknoller Combe Staple Plain, on the northern edge of the Quantock Hills, plays host to some of the finest ridge walks in the South West. Up here among the heather, gorse, and warm red sandstone, the high breeze-blown ridges offer views across the Bristol Channel to Wales, the Vale of Taunton Deane, and the distant Brendon Hills. The path up through the woods above Bicknoller Climbing from Staple Plain up onto 310-metre Beacon Hill, you follow the ancient ridge path known as the Great Road to Bicknoller Post. From here, the route plunges down into the deep, green amphitheatre of Bicknoller Combe to reach the sandstone village below. After a pause at the village pub, you retrace your steps along the skirts of the hills through the wooded slopes of Weacombe—where wild red deer frequently graze—before a short, puff-inducing climb takes you back up through the plantation to the hilltop starting point. Top of the Quantock ridge above Bicknoller, Fact File Distance: Approx. 4 miles Terrain: Open ridge tracks, steep combe descents, and woodland paths. Recommended Map: OS Explorer 140 (Quantock Hills & Bridgwater). Pub Stop: The Bicknoller Inn — A charming 16th-century thatched village inn nestled at the foot of the Quantocks, featuring low oak beams, open fires, and local ciders. Top of Weacombe on the Bicknoller pub walk 4. Lollover Hill & Dundon Beacon (Compton Dundon) Where the flat, vast swathe of the Somerset Levels meets a steep arc of wooded hills, you'll find the twin communities of Dundon and Compton Dundon. Long ago, when the Levels were an undrained inland sea, these green eminences rose out of the water like islands. Finn the lurcher above Compton Dundon, This 3.5-mile circuit starts near Dundon church and ascends magnificent Lollover Hill. Rising abruptly out of the dead-flat polders, the summit trig point offers panoramic vistas stretching across Sedgemoor to the Quantocks. Legend has it that locals gathered on this crest to watch the 1685 Battle of Sedgemoor unfolding in the distance. The route descends past Bartlett’s Farm before taking on the steep ascent of Dundon Beacon—an Iron Age hill fort and nature reserve rich in wild orchids and ancient oak woodland—before looping back into the village. A track through the fields near Compton Dundon, Somerset Fact File Distance: 3.5 miles Terrain: Steep grassy hill climbs and lower valley lanes. Recommended Map: OS Explorer 140 (Quantock Hills & Bridgwater). Pub Stop: The Castlebrook Inn, Compton Dundon — A welcoming country pub situated on the main road through Compton Dundon, featuring a large garden and home-cooked regional food. The Somerset Levels, as seen from the hills at Compton Dundon 5. Burrow Mump & Southlake Moor (Sedgemoor) Emerging off Junction 24 of the M5 leads into a strange, dreamy landscape of rhynes, drove roads, and endless skies: the heart of Sedgemoor. This area is dominated by Burrow Mump—a 100-foot natural green mound crowned by the roofless, mystical ruins of St Michael's Chapel. Burrow Mump and the roofless, mystical ruins of St Michael's Chapel. King Alfred once hid in these impenetrable bogs from the Danes, and the views from the Mump's ruined doorways are as vast as a panorama from a hot-air balloon. After taking in the hill, this circuit follows Burrow Drove and Broad Drove across the flat meadowlands, picking up footbridges over the agricultural rhynes to cross Southlake Moor. The return trail follows the peaceful riverside path along the River Parrett straight back to Burrowbridge. Views from the top of Burrow Mump in Somerset during a time of floods Fact File Distance: 4 to 5 miles Terrain: Very flat marshland droves and riverbank paths (can be overgrown or damp in wet seasons). Recommended Map: OS Explorer 140 (Quantock Hills & Bridgwater). Pub Stop: The King Alfred Inn, Burrowbridge — Situated right at the foot of Burrow Mump, offering hearty post-walk meals, local ales, and a warm West Country welcome. 6. Brent Knoll & The Somerset Levels No landmark in the West Country is more unmissable than Brent Knoll - the mini-mountain that presides over the M5 corridor near Bridgwater. Rising 449 feet above the sea-level polders, this giant outcrop of clays and limestone was once an island in prehistoric seas and later served as an Iron Age hill fort and Saxon lookout post. Walkers on Brent Knoll, Somerset, with the M5 motorway far below Starting from the elegant parish church at East Brent, a field path ascends through steep, grassy slopes to the summit. Standing on the crest feels like flying without leaving the ground: the view encompasses Glastonbury Tor, the Mendip Hills, Cheddar Gorge, the Quantocks, and the Bristol Channel. The return path drops sharply down the south-western shoulder to Manor Farm, hugging a high plateau before swinging past seven level fields back to the village. Travel writer Martin Hesp on Brent Knoll Fact File Distance: 3 miles Terrain: One short, very steep ascent/descent, followed by flat meadow paths. Recommended Map: OS Explorer 153 (Weston-super-Mare & Bream Down). Pub Stop: The Red Cow Inn, Brent Knoll — A traditional, family-run village pub located near the foot of the knoll, offering real ales, cider, and home-cooked comfort food. Looking out over the Somerset countryside from Brent Knoll CHECK OUT OUR SOMERSET WALKS PAGE HERE Frequently Asked Questions About Somerset Pub Walks What is the best time of year to walk in Somerset? Somerset walks are rewarding in all four seasons. Spring and summer bring vibrant wild orchids to Lollover Hill and coastal blooms to Exmoor. Autumn highlights the golden foliage in the Quantock combes, while clear winter days offer crisp views across the Somerset Levels—provided you finish at a cozy pub with an open log fire! Are these circular pub walks dog-friendly? Yes, all six routes follow public rights of way and welcome dogs. However, please keep dogs on leads when passing through livestock fields—particularly on Exmoor, the Quantocks, and the Somerset Levels, where sheep, cattle, and wild ponies graze freely. How can I make sure the pubs are open before setting out? While all the pubs listed in this guide are well-established and active, rural opening hours can vary seasonally or on Mondays/Tuesdays. It is always wise to click through to their linked websites above to double-check lunchtime serving hours before hitting the trail. Travel writer Martin Hesp above the Somerset Levels at Lone Tree Hill

Why the Dordogne Feels Like France's West Country Imagine a vast area that boasts all the best bits of the West Country and very few of our less scenic zones. A place of forested hills and deep river valleys which combine to provide a rural heartland that seems to stretch on-and-on. A region so rich in history, there seems to be a castle on every knoll and evidence of prehistoric humankind somewhere near every cliff and cave. For anyone planning a holiday in the Dordogne, the appeal lies in its extraordinary mixture of landscapes, history and food. Mediaeval villages and castles overlook the Dordogne and Vézère valleys, prehistoric sites hide beneath limestone cliffs, and towns and markets celebrate the rich cuisine of Périgord. This was my journey through some of the best places to visit in this remarkable corner of south-west France. Okay, so the Dordogne, which lies hundreds of miles south of the English Channel, does not have our dramatic coastlines — but it does have some of the best food in the world as well as a warmer, drier climate. Why the Dordogne Captivates So Many Brits What’s not to like? Thousands of Brits have asked exactly that question and have moved down to this part of south-central France. I know several people, and not one of them has regretted the move. The latest figures show that somewhere around 40,000 Brits live in the larger Nouvelle-Aquitaine area, which includes the Dordogne. I’m not suggesting anyone packs their bags forever, despite the cheap properties, the good wine, the amazing food and so on. But, having enjoyed a recent tour around the Dordogne, I am more than happy to recommend it as a perfect venue for a holiday in France. I say that even though it was the end of October and the weather wasn’t exactly clement all the time. The lunches and dinners alone were worth the trip. The Timeless Allure of Rural France But if you asked me to name what I loved most about this extraordinary part of France, I’d say it was the magic and excitement of being in such a vast and unspoilt rural paradise. That sense — of a forested, undulating landscape stretching on and on — somehow reminds me of a world I never knew, but wanted to know very much. By which I mean a more ancient England. An agrarian land, interlaced by thousands of tiny byways that seem to weave and wind their way into leafy infinity. I was on a trip with other travel journalists, so there was not much chance to go wandering off alone, but I now intend returning to the Dordogne to do precisely that. To roam without any real destination in mind. To simply follow those endless byways in the vague and dreamy notion to see where they may take me. Exploring the Dordogne Valley: Castles, Châteaux and Country Inns We flew to Bergerac Airport and from there drove an hour-and-a-half past the town of Vitrac for an overnight stay in the Dordogne Valley at the rather grand and extensive Domaine de Rochebois— an impressive hotel set in lovely grounds. It was getting dark by the time we arrived so we didn’t have much time to explore, but we did thoroughly enjoy a glorious four-course dinner with a local wine pairing. Eyrignac Gardens and the Food of the Dordogne The next morning we were off to the amazing Eyrignac et ses Jardins — one of the region’s most famous gardens — said to include a “masterpiece of French topiary art”. I could see why they use the term ‘masterpiece’. The seven full-time gardeners still use non-mechanical hand tools and the highly manicured gardens located high on a hill must take endless labour-hours to keep in trim. After marching around in the rain, wondering just how fabulous the place must be in the sunshine, we were given a rather splendid lunch of foie-gras omelette at the Côté Jardin restaurant. (Travel tip: If the thought of foie-gras upsets you, perhaps give the Aquitaine region a miss — it’s everywhere. Vegetarians may also find menus a little challenging, as meat dominates most dishes.) Domme and the Bastides Festival: Medieval France in Full Colour Next, it was a drive to the famous village of Domme, officially designated one of the most beautiful villages in France. It is a magnificent medieval bastide, perched high above the Dordogne Valley, and we were there to help celebrate the Bastides Festival. What is a Bastide? In short, it is a fortified market town with a uniform, organised design, built from scratch back in the day. Domme and Monpazier are two famous examples. During the medieval period these new towns were founded to populate new areas and secure territory while stimulating trade. Domme’s impressive gate towers still guard the village, leading visitors into the historic cobbled streets. Past the square — decked-out for the festival with a medieval fair, organic wine stalls, costumed dancers and a hand-powered ferris wheel — we reached the main attraction: the breathtaking cliff-edge view over the Dordogne Valley. A Community Feast to Remember Our afternoon stretched into the evening because we had been invited to a community banquet staged in Domme as part of the Bastides Festival. I’ve been to quite a few community suppers here in the UK, but this was in a different league. More than 250 locals turned up for the excellent four-course meal prepared by members of the community — wild mushroom soup, salmon en croûte and a hog-roast (with veal calf). There were musicians, medieval dancers and fire-eaters. Château Stays and Hidden Villages This extravaganza was followed by an overnight stay at the charming Château de Maraval, a boutique hotel set in a small, classic French manor house. The exterior exuded the area’s rich history, while the interior offered contemporary luxury. Set in lovely wooded gardens, it makes an ideal base for anyone visiting the area. Next morning our trip continued with a drive to Belvès, otherwise known as “the village with seven bell towers”. Beneath its main square lies a network of ancient cave dwellings once home to the poor — an extraordinary glimpse of medieval life. Lunch was enjoyed after yet another journey through the countryside — this time to Monpazier, where a producers’ market was taking place. We joined locals in the ‘cantine de campagne’ in the main square, enjoying a hearty autumn dish of cep-and-chestnut soup, barbecued potatoes, sausage, and chestnuts. Underground Wonders and Prehistoric Treasures The afternoon featured a visit to the Grotte de Maxanges, known for its remarkable and eccentric stalactites and stalagmites, followed by dinner and an overnight stay at the Hôtel Restaurant Le Centenaire in Les Eyzies. Just across the road stands one of Europe’s most fascinating museums: the Musée National de Préhistoire, set into a cliff face in Les Eyzies-de-Tayac-Sireuil, in the Vézère Valley — often called the “Capital of Prehistory”. The museum holds one of the world’s largest collections of prehistoric artefacts, spanning over 400,000 years of human history. Maison-forte de Reignac and the Art of Survival We continued along the river valleys for a guided tour of the Maison-forte de Reignac, a semi-troglodyte museum also set in a cliff. This extraordinary place, once both home and fortress, offers a vivid glimpse into how people lived — and survived — across centuries in this wild region. Luxury and Gastronomy at Le Vieux Logis, Trémolat They say leave the best until last — and we did. The hotel Le Vieux Logis in Trémolat is one of the celebrated Relais & Châteaux properties — an absolute gem. Once a 16th-century priory and agricultural estate, this luxurious Dordogne hotel offers elegant rooms, tranquil gardens, and Michelin-starred dining. The meal, led by a chef renowned for his mastery of local flavours, was a revelation: river fish, truffle, foie gras — dishes that told the story of Périgordian cuisine at its best. Pécharmant Wine: A Final Taste of the Dordogne On our way to the airport next morning, we stopped at the Château Terre Vieille, a Pécharmant vineyard where owner Gérôme Morand-Monteil treated us to a spectacular Perigord-style tapas lunch. Even writing those last three words has made me hungry. Penning the article, however, has made me yearn for a return visit to the rustic, remarkable, adorable Dordogne. What Else Should You See in the Dordogne? My journey only scratched the surface of this remarkable region. Among the best-known places to visit is medieval Sarlat-la-Canéda, the historic heart of Périgord Noir, while the Dordogne Valley is dotted with celebrated villages and castles including Beynac and La Roque-Gageac. There is far too much to see in a single visit – which gives me another excellent reason to return. ✦ FACT FILE: Dordogne Travel Guide General Information 👉 Dordogne Tourism Official Site Getting There ✈️ Bergerac Airport:https://www.bergerac.aeroport.fr/ Recommended Dordogne Hotels Domaine de Rochebois Château de Maraval Hôtel Restaurant Le Centenaire Le Vieux Logis, Trémolat Top Heritage and Cultural Sites Eyrignac et ses Jardins – https://www.eyrignac.com/en/ Domme – https://www.domme.fr/domme.html Musée National de Préhistoire – https://musee-prehistoire-eyzies.fr/ Maison‑forte de Reignac – https://www.maison-forte-reignac.com/en/ ✦ FACT FILE: Airport Parking & Travel Tips Martin flew from Stansted and parked with Holiday Extras — the UK’s market leader in airport parking, hotels, lounges, and transfers. Last year its customers saved an average of £196 per trip by booking their airport parking in advance. Booking early means you can enjoy more holiday with less hassle. With Flextras, if you need to cancel or amend, you can do so free of charge. 🔗 HolidayExtras.com | ☎️ 0800 316 5678 More From the Dordogne I've returned to this wonderful part of France more than once. You can also read my journey through rural south-west France and the Dordogne, exploring its river landscapes, country hotels and remarkable food – and why this corner of France continues to remind me so strongly of the West Country. Frequently Asked Questions About Visiting the Dordogne What are the best places to visit in the Dordogne? The Dordogne is filled with mediaeval villages, castles, gardens and prehistoric sites. Highlights from my journey included Domme, Monpazier, Belvès, Les Eyzies, Eyrignac Gardens and the extraordinary Maison-forte de Reignac. What is the Dordogne famous for? The Dordogne is renowned for its beautiful river valleys, mediaeval towns and castles, prehistoric caves and the rich food of Périgord, including truffles, walnuts, duck, foie gras and local wines. Is the Dordogne good for a driving holiday? Yes. Much of the pleasure of exploring the Dordogne comes from travelling through its deeply rural landscape between villages, castles, markets and river valleys. Having a car also makes it easier to reach many of the smaller attractions. Where should you stay when visiting the Dordogne? There are numerous bases throughout the region. On my journey I stayed at Domaine de Rochebois, Château de Maraval, Hôtel Restaurant Le Centenaire in Les Eyzies and Le Vieux Logis at Trémolat. When is a good time to visit the Dordogne? Summer brings warmer weather and longer days, but the Dordogne can also be wonderful outside the main season. I travelled at the end of October, when autumn food, mushrooms, chestnuts and local festivals became part of the experience.

Discover the Algarve’s Hidden Heart Some places have a kind of instant reputation - you hear the name and straight away you think of the things for which they’ve become renowned. In the case of this article, I’m talking about the golf-courses and beach-resorts of Portugal’s Algarve. And if this theory needed any proof, I can tell you that my flight from Bristol last week was filled with golfers and seekers of winter sunshine. Nothing wrong with that. If you’ve got it, flaunt it. I don’t play golf, but I’m sure the Algarve has some great courses - as for good beaches, the south-west corner of Portugal has some of the best in Europe. But, the Algarve is about far more than just 18-holes and seaside resorts. It has countryside. A lot of very beautiful countryside, as it turns out - swathes of which are rarely visited by tourists. IF you enjoy this article take a look at another of our posts about a hidden part of Portugal Walking Festivals and Algarve Off-the-Beaten-Track Which is the reason I was there last week. The Algarve tourist board sent me an invitation which basically said: “Come and find out about life off the beaten track. Yes, we are internationally renowned for our tourism offer, but we’d like people to know about our countryside which, out of the heat of high season, is wonderful for walking.” In recent times the Algarve has inaugurated not one, but five different annual walking festivals. I was there to take part in one of them, based in the village of Barão de São João, and also to enjoy other hikes in the region. Barão de São João: Art, Forest Trails and Rural Algarve Barão de São João is a rather artistic and bohemian community located inland from the popular coastal town of Lagos. It’s a lovely place, known for its rustic beauty and tranquil atmosphere, and the surrounding area is perfect for hiking and biking. The neighbouring Mata Nacional de Barão de São João (National Forest) lends itself to nature walks and the village is well known for art festivals and a popular monthly flea market. I liked the place. It reminded me of several laid-back rural communities I know in California. But there was another not so pleasant similarity - the constant danger of forest fire. You can see the damage caused by a massive recent conflagration above Barão de São João - one so large, I recall seeing it on BBC TV news. It is something you quickly become aware of while walking in this region - the fear of wildfire is very real indeed - all manner of measures are being taken in a bid to lessen the threat, but sometimes while hiking around the area I got the feeling that there’s underlying message that says: “Enjoy all this natural beauty while you can.” Climate Change, Rewilding and a Changing Algarve Landscape The Algarve is bracing itself for climate change - a phenomenon which, of course, is already happening. So I can appreciate why local nature-lovers want people to enjoy their wonderful countryside - the more treasured and valued something is, the more it will be protected. And there are measures which can be taken. In hot southern European areas where wildfires are an existentialist threat, there are holistic remedies which can help reduce the threat. For example, I saw a large area on the slopes of Monte Fóia, the Algarve’s highest point (2,959 feet), located in the Serra de Monchique range, which is being re-wilded by the community in order to reinstate a more natural landscape that will not burn as fiercely or as as easily. Part of the problem is the ubiquitous eucalyptus tree - an invasive non-native species which is full of natural oils and which burns so hot during forest fires it will sometimes explode. That is a problem for Portugal’s lovely, indigenous, cork oaks - they’re equipped to survive the kind of wildfires that have been sweeping the region for centuries, but when neighbouring eucalyptus are burning, they get fried like everything else. Walking, Food and Culture in the Serra de Monchique Not that any of this should put you off visiting this most lovely of countryside regions. The mountainous area around the charming town of Monchique, for instance, is extremely scenic and full of interest. We enjoyed a superb walk there as well as a magnificent Sunday lunch in a wonderful restaurant called A Charrette. A crowded and traditional watering hole specialising in local cuisine. Pig’s cheek, slowly stewed in olive oil? Yes please. Venison with prunes? Count me in. Proper local autumn food. Monchique Chestnut Festival: Authentic Algarve Traditions Later that day, after a walk through the adjacent cork forests and village gardens, we strolled back into town only to discover that the Monchique Chestnut Festival (Festa da Castanha) was in full throttle. This is a chestnut producing area and it hosts an annual celebration of this delicious woodland product. We could smell smoke, hear music and see crowds entering a doorway in a low wall, so we joined in and found ourselves in a public park laid out in terraces. These were filled with townsfolk, all gazing down towards lower levels where a couple of rectangular shaped bonfires were being tended by men with rakes. The air was filled with the smoky, sweet scent of castanhas assadas (roasted chestnuts), being cooked over dried bundles of the carqueja bush. Every now and again the men would rake back the flames so that people could grab themselves a handful of charred and cooked chestnuts. A lady shoved a brown paper bag into my hand and invited me to join in, which I did most happily because I am a huge fan of these sweet-savoury nuts when they’ve been roasted properly. Algarvian Roots: Guided Hikes, Wildlife and Authentic Encounters Throughout this trip with other British travel journalists, we were escorted and generally looked after by an excellent guiding company called Algarvian Roots. The young but experienced owner, Francisco Simões, told me… “ If you are one of those tourists just going to the beach or playing golf, you are not seeing the authentic Algarve region. We work around the year, but mostly outside of the summer time, and what we do is guided hikes around the most natural and well-conserved areas - in the hills, in the mountains, along the sea-cliffs - as well as lead bird-watching trips around the lagoons. “We also try to show how the local people are living, and that is partly what makes what we do so authentic and different.” Monchique in the hills of the Algarve Olive Oil, Ceramics and Local Craftsmanship Which really does tick a lot of boxes for me. To take one example, Francisco took up us into the hills beyond Monchique to meet a remarkable young man who runs an olive oil pressing business that’s been in his family for generations. The hard-working Miguel Bigodinho makes some of the best olive oil in Europe - a sweeping statement, but one I believe to be true. He took us around is ancient oil presses to show us how he makes the extra virgin stuff the old-fashioned way. It takes more time, costs more to produce but, my goodness, it’s worth it. Olive oil is a moody beast - it can oxidise easily and any slight overheating can also effect its flavour - but Miguel has age-old techniques which help him to bottle liquid gold. Olive oils made by Miguel Bigodinho Franciso also took us to meet his mother, Margarida Palma Gomes, a skilful woman who works in the region’s traditional ceramics industry. Her shop, which is run as a sort of local cooperative, is in the historic town of Silves, famous for the massive castle, which still rules the local roost to this day. Painted ceramic tiles are a big thing in Portugal, and Margarida taught us how to prepare one of our own. Mine now has pride of place in my kitchen. Exploring Silves Castle and Algarve Wildlife Projects The town itself is a must-visit place if ever you’re in the Algarve. The big castle alone is worth the trip, and modest entry fee which (just a few quid) is a fraction of what you’d pay to visit such a place in the UK. The vast pile is ringed by ramparts and stuffed full of history - a lot of which, unsurprisingly, focusses on the comings and goings of the Christians and Moors. Also in the castle you can learn about how the Iberian lynx is being re-introduced to the wilder parts of the Algarve, alongside several other exciting environmental projects that are being carried out in the rural areas. Seven Hanging Valleys Walk: Portugal’s Iconic Coastal Trail On another sunlit day, Algarvian Roots took us down to the sea-shore so we could enjoy the amazing Seven Hanging Valleys coastal path from Praia da Marinha to Farol D’Alfanzina. This rugged, up-and-down, four-mile section is part of a much longer coast path that stretches for miles along the Algarve’s southern littoral. However, the Hanging Valleys is reckoned to be one of the best bits. “Hanging” by the way, because this coast is made of soft golden limestone and the sea has burrowed under the cliffs to produce enormous blow-holes which line the bottom of several of the valleys. Having walked it, I am not surprised that the path is reckoned to be one of the most scenic in Portugal. It’s as exciting a coastal walk as I’ve done anywhere, which is saying something. Think: gold-coloured cliffs, endless sea-caves, waves which really are true turquoise, and stunning viewpoints every fine minutes of the way. All of which means this part of the coast is highly popular - thankfully, the majority of visitors are out on the waves, being blasted up and down the shoreline in speedboats. The Benagil Caves halfway along the route are said to be one of Portugal’s most iconic natural wonders. Winery Visit and Local Food at Morgado do Quintão After the hike we travelled inland to the Morgado do Quintão, an excellent local winery that serves a lunch of local delicacies for those who make a booking in advance (salt-cod fritters and a slow-cooked pork and garlic stew). Our visited was hosted by two first-class hotels - The Westin Salgados Beach Resort and the Monchique Resort and Spa. The first is located on the coast and set in its own palm-strewn gardens next to a lagoon nature-reserve full of board-walks. The second is up in the Monchique hills and enjoys wonderful views. And when I say first class, these are really good hotels. Both have large, comfortable and well-equipped suites. Classy, but not costly. Prices at the Westin in spring 2026 start from £128 per night based on two adults sharing. At the same time, a stay at the Monchique Resort and Spa starts from £163 per night. Why I’d Return to Algarve’s Countryside Now I’ve explored it a little, I’d happily return to the Algarve at the drop of a hat - especially seeing there are regular flights from Bristol to Faro. Not so that I could sunbathe myself stupid, enjoy cheap booze and thwack balls around with iron sticks, but to see some of the loveliest countryside in south western Europe. Travel Writers in the Algarve Fact File: Algarve Travel Planning Essentials FACT FILE Visit the Algarve Tourism website: https://visitalgarve.pt/en/ The Westin Salgados Beach Resort Monchique Resort and Spa Algarve Walking Season – useful walking guide for the region - www.algarvewalkingseason.com Via Algarviana - www.viaalgarviana.org Parking at Bristol Airport: Martin uses Holiday Extras - the market leader in UK for airport parking, hotels, lounges, and transfers. Last year its customers saved an average of £196 per trip by booking their airport parking in advance. Is the Algarve good for walking? Yes. The Algarve has hundreds of kilometres of walking routes, from dramatic coastal paths to inland mountain trails and nature reserves. What is the Algarve Walking Festival? Several walking festivals take place across the Algarve each year, introducing visitors to lesser-known landscapes, wildlife, villages and local traditions. When is the best time to visit the Algarve for walking? Spring and autumn offer cooler temperatures, colourful wildflowers and ideal conditions for walking holidays. Is there more to the Algarve than beaches? Absolutely. Inland you'll discover cork forests, vineyards, mountain villages, historic towns, wildlife reserves and traditional Portuguese culture. Is the Algarve suitable for a holiday without golf? Yes. Walking, cycling, birdwatching, food, wine, history and nature make the Algarve an excellent destination for non-golfers.

Autumn Festivals in Portugal’s Algarve Mountains The seasons tend to have their quintessential moments or occasions - winter, of course, has Christmas while summer has village fetes and other outdoor festivals. Apart from the Harvest Festival celebrated by some religions and the overly commercial Halloween, autumn doesn’t have that much to offer when it comes to stand-out celebrations. So imagine my delight when I came across a small, but unique event in the mountains of southern Portugal recently. Discovering the Festa da Castanha in Monchique Held during the autumn chestnut season, the Monchique Chestnut Festival (Festa da Castanha) is part of the Algarve’s traditional inland calendar and reflects the Portuguese custom of celebrating autumn with roasted chestnuts. The mountainous Monchique region, surrounding the small and charming town of the same name, has a long association with chestnut growing and celebrates this delicious autumn crop with traditional local festivities. A Chance Encounter in Monchique Town I am told these events are staged in the villages of Marmelete and Alferce, but we quite literally stumbled upon one being held right there in the centre of Monchique. We were taking a walk around the wooded and fertile outskirts of this mountainous little town when we heard loud music emanating from somewhere in the centre of the place and I joked with my travel writer friend Lindsey Sutton that they are setting up a party to celebrate his birthday, which it happened to be. But an hour later when strolling back into town we could smell smoke, hear music and see crowds entering a small doorway. We joined them and found ourselves in a small, steep public park laid out in terraces. These are filled with townsfolk, all gazing down towards the lower levels where a couple of rectangular shaped bonfires were being tended by men with rakes. Traditional Roasting: Castanhas Assadas in Monchique It was only when we drew closer that we realised the ashes of these fires consisted of small heaps of roasting chestnuts, which the men periodically stirred with their rakes to prevent the nuts burning too much on one side. The air was filled with the smoky, sweet scent of castanhas assadas (roasted chestnuts), which were being cooked in the traditional way over dried bundles of carqueja, a shrubby plant found in Portugal. Every now and again these energetic fellows rake back the flaming bundles (which looked to me like dried heather) so that people could kneel down and grab themselves a handful of fully cooked, and outwardly charred, chestnuts. A nice lady shoved a brown paper bag into my hand and invited me to join the throng, which I did most happily because I am a huge fan of these sweet-savoury roasted nuts when they’ve been roasted to just the right degree. São Martinho Traditions & Local Culture I was told the festival is an old celebration of this humble product, which once formed a vital part of the area’s economy. A local person told me: “We always gather for the magusto, a communal party which is centred on the cooking and eating of chestnuts. Traditionally we drink the new year’s wine, and enjoy local spirits like medronho brandy and melosa.” We, indeed, enjoyed a tot or two to join in with the fun. And although we are only there for half-an-hour I enjoyed the Festa da Castanha very much indeed and now regard it as a very lovely and welcome autumn celebration. Algarve Walking Season – useful walking guide for the region - www.algarvewalkingseason.com Via Algarviana - www.viaalgarviana.org More Food and Travel in Monchique The chestnut festival was just one of several memorable food experiences I discovered in the hills of the Algarve. Nearby, I also visited the remarkable Lagar dos Pardieiros olive oil mill, where Miguel Bigodinho showed me how his family combines traditional stone milling and cold-pressing methods with modern olive oil production. You can also read my wider account of exploring the Algarve beyond its famous beaches and golf courses, including walking in the Monchique hills, traditional food, local crafts and the people keeping the region’s rural traditions alive. Frequently Asked Questions About the Chestnut Festival What is the Monchique Chestnut Festival? The Monchique Chestnut Festival, or Festa da Castanha, is an autumn celebration of chestnuts and traditional rural culture in the mountains of Portugal’s Algarve. Where is Monchique? Monchique is a small mountain town in the Serra de Monchique in the western Algarve, surrounded by wooded hills and countryside very different from the region’s better-known coastal resorts. What happens at the Monchique Chestnut Festival? When I visited, local people gathered around open fires where chestnuts were roasted in the traditional way. There was music, food and a wonderfully informal community atmosphere. What are castanhas assadas? Castanhas assadas are roasted chestnuts, a traditional Portuguese autumn food particularly associated with the cooler months and seasonal celebrations.

Visiting an Olive Oil Producer in Monchique, Algarve Lagar dos Pardieiros Olive Oil Mill On a recent press trip to the Algarve, we visited the remarkable Lagar dos Pardieiros olive oil business high in the hills near the lovely little town of Monchique. I was so taken by the amazingly hard-working and interesting Miguel Gonçalo Oliveira Santos Bigodinho, who now runs the family business, that I thought we’d produce a special article here based on our visit and his talk… Oh, and we were given a tasting of the latest fresh-pressed oil and it was easily among the best I’ve ever tried. My only regret was that we couldn’t buy any as the new season product had not yet “stabilised”. I’ll have to return one day. Miguel Gonçalo Oliveira Santos Bigodinho The Story of Lagar dos Pardieiros - Old and New Miguel described the compelling contrast between the mill's historic, "old-fashioned" process (Factory 1, operating since 1952) and its new, automated facility (Factory 2). The core theme is the unwavering commitment to quality through freshness and traditional methods, even when those methods require immense physical effort and time. Key Takeaways Legacy Equipment & Philosophy The old factory is powered by a reliable 1952 German engine. Miguel and his family maintain his grandfather’s belief that while the old system is labour-intensive, it produces the best-tasting oil because the paste is never exposed to heat or excessive friction. Old machinery at the Lagar dos Pardieiros The Crucial Role of Freshness The mill places extreme importance on processing olives within hours of receiving them to prevent natural fermentation and oxidation, which would ruin the oil's quality. This is especially critical for the old factory. The Traditional Cold Press The old process involves grinding olives slowly (35–45 minutes) with heavy, local syenite stone millstones, which enhances the flavour. The oil is extracted using a true cold-press system: hydraulic pressure applied to stacked mats of olive paste, never exceeding 27 degrees C (the modern definition of ‘cold-pressed’). This labour-intensive method sacrifices about 10% of the oil yield but ensures superior taste and quality. Olives at the old machinery at the Lagar dos Pardieiros The New Equipment (Automation and Efficiency) New equipment was purchased out of necessity due to the difficulty of finding staff for the old, three-person system and the rising costs and scarcity of parts for the maintenance of the original machinery. The new system is fully enclosed and automated, reducing the oxidation time from four hours down to 30 minutes. While it yields better chemical quality (lower acidity/oxidation), Miguel admits the taste of the oil from the old mill is still his personal favourite. Sustainability and Waste Everything is recycled. The solid waste (spent olive paste/pomace) is highly rich in organic matter and is composted for a year before being returned to fertilise the olive groves. The acidic liquid waste ("olive juice") is a chemical waste that is contained in an underground bacteria system before being collected by a specialised collection company. One of the olive oil presses at the Lagar dos Pardieiros Miguel de Figueiredo on the Legacy of Lagar dos Pardieiros Miguel: “Our old factory is powered by the original engine from 1952, and it works every day without any problems. It's a German engine; it’s amazing. We have rarely had to do maintenance—it’s the perfect thing to power the entire factory. It still works with a crank, so it takes a little bit of effort to start, but it’s a very good engine to power the old factory. I’m probably going to make a system so it can power a little bit of light in the new one, too, so the lighting bill doesn't go so high every day, but it’s fully connected and working. “In the other room, that’s where we receive the olives. In the beginning, in 1952, at the start of the season, they filled up the entire space with olives and worked until it was empty. We don't do that anymore. Now, we make a very serious effort to grind everything we receive in less than 24 hours (for us this is key) to ensure that we grind olives that have been harvested. That’s very, very important for us, especially in the old factory. With the new one, we don’t have so much of an issue with oxidation, but in the old factory, we really have to work with fresh olives.” The grinding stones at Lagar dos Pardieiros Maintenance and Heritage in Portuguese Olive Oil Production Maintenance & Heritage: The factory is so dedicated to its product that even the machinery maintenance uses olive oil as a lubricant (not standard engine oil), which allows them to detect leaks by taste and keeps the machine parts from rusting. Imagine the disastrous results if convention engine oil was used and it leaked… Lubrication equipent at Lagar dos Pardieiros “Our original (grinding) stones were made here in Monchique and they are local syenite stones. That’s why we are able to make them last so long. Normally, millstones are made with limestone that needs to be replaced every 25 years. This is a heavy stone. Each one weighs about one and a half tonnes. They were put in here by hand. Right now, I don't have enough hands to do that. We’d have to take the entire roof off if we had to replace these. “But this old mill still serves a very important purpose for us. When we grind the olives, we take the taste from the proteins and fat. Grinding them very slowly without any friction or heating allows us to get the full taste of the olives in the paste. That’s very good - if you have fresh olives. That’s not so good if you don't have fresh olives, because all bad tastes will still be there. We need to grind them for 35 to 45 minutes in here. We grind them entirely—peel, pit, seed, everything is fully ground—and we turn the olive basically into a mash, spreading it on mats for the next step.” The True Cold-Press Olive Oil Method “This machine is a little bit older than me, and she’s going to have two jobs,” said Miguel, pointing to the post-milling machine. “First, she’s going to spread the paste and weigh it perfectly in here. But she’s also going to spin the paste for about 5 to 10 minutes so that the small molecules of olive oil can spread through the paste so they can merge.” “What we're going to do next is basically use the mats as a filter. We're going to create a lot of pressure in the press. This is the true definition of cold-pressed. Even though you see "coldpress" on olive oils in supermarkets, they never use a system like this. This is a 100-ton press working on our olives. The good thing is we’ll be able to take the oil out without heating, and the pressure allows us to take the full taste of the olive. But we lose 10% of the olive oil we make over the entire year by using this old system. The ancient power unit still works at Lagar dos Pardieiros “It’s one of the machines that requires the most maintenance. We fill the car (a truck on rails) up with mats and paste - fill it to the top. The axle and the weight of the car weigh one and a half tonnes. Pushing one and a half tonnes with liquid inside is not an easy job, but it’s important that, when we lift it, the car is very centred for a couple of reasons. We’re going to power the entire press with that old 1952 machine in there. We’re going to lift the car and press it against the top part of this machine (the press) at about 500 to 600 kilos in every square centimetre. A one centimetre by one centimetre area is going to have 500 kilos on it.” More from Monchique: I also visited the town's traditional Chestnut Festival, another fascinating glimpse into the food and rural culture of the Algarve hills. “And it doesn’t have a safety stop. Those little red lines that tell you: ‘Don't go higher than that!’ Otherwise the machine will explode and a half-tonne part will fly through the roof! That has never happened here. But it has happened elsewhere - one of the reasons was that people forgot the machine working after lunch, and the housing blew up. Worst-case scenario here is the pipes blow up, and you see water going through the sky. “The machine works perfectly, and we’re going to separate solids from liquids here.” "At the time when my grandpa started this factory, there were seven mills just in the Monchique area. Right now, there are three like this working in the whole of Portugal.” “For us to test the quality of olive oil, we consider two things: the taste, which is important, but we also chemically consider the acidity level of the olive oil. Oxidation is another thing that affects the olive oil. In this factory, from the moment I start grinding the olives, up to the moment the oil is inside the vats where we store it, it’s about four hours.” Outdoor sampling area at Lagar dos Pardieiros Transition to the New Factory in Monchique Miguel: “The new factory is supposed to be way cleaner. It’s still a little bit messy, but it’s very different for another reason. Everything before this stage is just fresh washed olives, and now we’re going to do everything in an enclosed space. This big engine you see is our grinder, and we’re going to grind the olives as they’re coming in. Instead of 35 or 45 minutes of them being ground in open air with a lot of oxidation, you're going to have 20 minutes in here, and we start making olive oil. In less than half an hour, we have ground the olives into olive oil. So, we pass from four hours of oxidation to 30 minutes—quite a difference. This machine always makes better chemical results. In terms of taste, the other one has a very specific taste, and for me, that's what you taste—probably because I know how much work that one requires compared to this one. The old system needs three employees, or three family guys. That’s why it’s getting a little bit tricky. I can’t convince anyone to keep working with me. “The only employee I have to pay with the new machine is the electrical bill. It’s a little bit higher on these engines than on the other one, but we’re going to be able to do everything fully automated, and in terms of oxidation, it’s going to be less.” “Nowadays, we consider cold-press everything that is ground below 27°C. In this one, the lowest condition I can work with is 24°C because all the engines create friction. Basically, every machine that the olive passes through increases the temperature by two degrees. In the old factory, we start grinding them at 14°C to 15°C, and in the end, they are still at 14°C to 15°C. So, we lose a little bit of olive oil in the process because we don’t heat it up, but we end up with the full taste of the olive. In this new machine, we heat up a little bit more, so we lose a little bit of taste here, but we end up with a more refined olive oil.” Visiting Lagar dos Pardieiros, Monchique If you’re travelling in the Algarve and want to experience authentic Portuguese olive oil production, the hills of Monchique offer a glimpse into a living tradition. At Lagar dos Pardieiros, you’ll meet a family who still believe in flavour over yield, patience over profit, and heritage over haste. Press group at Lagar dos Pardieiros Frequently Asked Questions About Algarve Olive Oil Where is Lagar dos Pardieiros? Lagar dos Pardieiros is an olive oil producer in the hills near Monchique in Portugal’s Algarve. The family business combines traditional olive oil production with a newer automated system. How is traditional cold-pressed olive oil made? At Lagar dos Pardieiros, olives in the old mill are slowly ground using heavy stone millstones before the paste is spread onto mats and subjected to hydraulic pressure. The process extracts the oil without the heat and friction associated with faster modern machinery. Can you visit an olive oil mill in the Algarve? Lagar dos Pardieiros near Monchique offers an opportunity to discover traditional Portuguese olive oil production and see the contrast between historic machinery and modern production methods.

When you are visiting countries such as Germany or Austria, it is almost obligatory for a meat-eater to try some sort of schnitzel. And that is exactly what I did during a visit to the fascinating town of Celle in Lower Saxony, where I was travelling with fellow members of the British Guild of Travel Writers. We were shown around the beautiful Old Town and the remarkable Celle Palace by our guide, Anke Maecker, before heading to Thaer’s Wirtshaus for lunch. And that is where I enjoyed one of the best schnitzels I’ve ever eaten. What is a German Schnitzel? The precise origins of schnitzel are disputed, although breaded and fried meat dishes have a long history in Central Europe. Austria has a particularly strong claim to the tradition: an early reference to “Gebackene Schnitzeln” appears in an Austrian cookbook published in 1798, while the name Wiener Schnitzel appeared in print during the 19th century. Traditionally, schnitzel is made from thin cuts of veal or pork that have been pounded flat, lightly breaded and then fried. The breading typically consists of flour, eggs, and breadcrumbs, although occasionally other ingredients may be added, such as cheese or herbs. The meat is then fried until it is golden brown and crispy. What is the Difference Between Schnitzel and Wiener Schnitzel? Not every schnitzel is a Wiener Schnitzel. Traditional Wiener Schnitzel is made from a thin piece of veal, coated in flour, beaten egg and breadcrumbs before being fried until crisp and golden. Pork versions are extremely common, particularly in Germany, but strictly speaking these are not traditional Wiener Schnitzel. The breadcrumbs should remain light rather than being firmly pressed onto the meat, helping the coating puff slightly away from the schnitzel as it cooks. However it is prepared, the result should be wonderfully simple: thin, tender meat surrounded by a crisp golden crust. Today, schnitzel is a popular meal in Germany and Austria, as well as in other parts of Europe and beyond. It is typically served with a side of potatoes or vegetables, as well as a variety of sauces I've also encountered the dish in Austria, although, as I discovered on a visit to Vienna, there is considerably more to Viennese food than schnitzel. Frequently Asked Questions About Schnitzel What is schnitzel? Schnitzel is a thin piece of meat that is usually pounded flat, coated in flour, egg and breadcrumbs, and fried until golden and crisp. Veal and pork are traditional choices, although chicken and other meats are also used. Is schnitzel German or Austrian? Schnitzel is associated with both German and Austrian cuisine, although Wiener Schnitzel is particularly associated with Vienna and Austria. Breaded and fried meat dishes have been eaten across Central Europe for centuries. What meat is used for schnitzel? Schnitzel can be made from several meats, with pork and veal among the most common. Traditional Wiener Schnitzel is made from veal. What is usually served with schnitzel? Schnitzel is commonly accompanied by potatoes, potato salad, vegetables or salad, often with a wedge of lemon. Different regions and restaurants have their own variations. What is the difference between schnitzel and Wiener Schnitzel? Schnitzel is the general name for the dish and can be made using different meats. Traditional Wiener Schnitzel specifically refers to a breaded veal cutlet prepared in the Viennese style.

Recently I was wandering through the historic town of Wolfenbüttel in Lower Saxony, Germany, when I came over all peckish. I was with some other chaps from the British Guild of Travel Writers and we were visiting town under the guidance of Petra Sievers from Hanover Tourism, and she knew of just the place for lunch. So we quickly grabbed lunch at the excellent lunch at the Restaurant “Zum Glück”, Löwenstraße 1 in the middle of town - and very good it was too. I could have gone down a much fancier route but I really wanted to try the famous curry-wurst - a simple dish which has spread right across Germany and beyond. IF YOU ARE ENOYING THIS POST, YOU MIGHT ALSO LIKE OUR ARTICLE ABOUT Schweinshaxe or roasted pork knuckle Curry-wurst is a popular German street food that has been beloved since its invention in 1949. It consists of a grilled or fried pork sausage, usually cut into slices, that is doused in a curry-flavoured ketchup and sprinkled with curry powder. The dish is usually served with a side of French fries and has become a staple of German fast food. It was created by Herta Heuwer, a Berliner who ran a street stall in Charlottenburg. She came up with the idea of adding curry powder to ketchup to give the dish its distinctive flavour. Heuwer was granted a patent for her invention in 1951, and the dish has since become a beloved part of German culture. Curry-wurst is most often eaten as a snack or light meal and is popular among children and adults alike. It is often served as part of a larger meal, such as a sausage platter. The dish has also become popular outside of Germany, with variations featuring different types of sausage and even vegetarian versions. The dish has become so popular that it has spawned a number of variations. The most common variation is the “Currywurst mit Pommes”, which is served with French fries. Frequently Asked Questions About Currywurst What is currywurst? Currywurst is a popular German fast food made from sausage, usually sliced into pieces and served with a curry-spiced tomato sauce. It is commonly accompanied by chips or bread. Where was currywurst invented? Currywurst is generally associated with Berlin, where Herta Heuwer is credited with creating the dish in 1949 by combining sausage with a tomato-based sauce flavoured with curry powder. What does currywurst taste like? The flavour comes largely from the sauce, which combines sweet and tangy tomato flavours with aromatic curry spices. Recipes vary considerably, so some versions are mild while others have much more heat. What type of sausage is used for currywurst? Different regions and restaurants use different sausages, but bratwurst-style pork sausages are common. Currywurst may be served with the sausage skin intact or with a skinless sausage. Is currywurst popular throughout Germany? Yes. Although particularly associated with Berlin, currywurst can be found across Germany in cafés, snack bars, street-food stalls and restaurants. What is traditionally served with currywurst? Chips are probably the best-known accompaniment, often with mayonnaise, although currywurst can also be served with a bread roll. It makes a simple and filling lunch when exploring a German town or city.

Lunch With the Pied Piper in Hamlin (or Hameln) The other day I was in Hamlin in Lower Saxony and, after spending a morning with a real life Pied Piper, we retired to the excellent Rattenfänger-Haus in the old town centre. And what a lovely old watering hole this place is… I was persuaded to order Schweinshaxe - and if you are looking for a hearty, delicious dish then look no further than this popular German plate of pork knuckle. The mouthwatering meal is sure to satisfy, especially if you are hungry. Schweinshaxe, also known as roasted ham hock, is made from a pork knuckle, which is the joint at the end of a pork leg. The knuckle is marinated in a mixture of herbs, spices, and salt and then slow-roasted for several hours over an open flame. The result is a juicy, tender piece of meat that melts in your mouth. The key to making a great Schweinshaxe is to ensure that the meat is cooked to perfection. The pork knuckle should be roasted until it is golden brown on the outside and succulent on the inside. If cooked correctly, the pork knuckle will be juicy and tender and will have a slightly smoky flavour. Schweinshaxe is traditionally served with a side of boiled potatoes, sauerkraut, and a dark beer. The combination of the smokiness of the pork knuckle, the sweetness of the potatoes, and the tanginess makes for a truly memorable dish. By the way, we had plenty of proof the locals in this town are in love with pork - the local market stalls were stuffed with delicious looking sauages… RECIPE for Schweinshaxe Ingredients: 1 large pork knuckle (approximately 2-3 lbs.) 1 tablespoon vegetable oil -2 cloves of garlic, minced -2 tablespoons of caraway seeds -2 tablespoons of ground black pepper -2 tablespoons of sea salt -1/2 teaspoon of ground nutmeg -1/2 teaspoon of ground allspice -1 teaspoon of dried thyme -1/4 cup of apple cider vinegar -2 cups of chicken broth Instructions: 1. Preheat your oven to 375 degrees Fahrenheit. 2. Rub the pork knuckle all over with the vegetable oil. 3. In a small bowl, combine the garlic, caraway seeds, pepper, salt, nutmeg, allspice, and thyme. Rub this mixture over the pork knuckle. 4. Place the pork knuckle in a roasting pan, and pour in the apple cider vinegar and the chicken broth. 5. Roast the pork knuckle in the preheated oven for 1 1/2 to 2 hours, or until the internal temperature of the pork registers at least 145 degrees Fahrenheit. 6. Baste the pork knuckle with the pan FAQ What is Schweinshaxe made of? Schweinshaxe is a traditional German dish made from the pork knuckle (the joint between the tibia/fibula and the foot of the pig). It is marinated in spices like caraway, garlic, and nutmeg, then slow-roasted until the skin turns golden and crackling crisp. What is the difference between Schweinshaxe and Eisbein? While both are pork knuckles, Schweinshaxe is roasted over high heat to achieve a crispy, crackling outer skin (popular in Bavaria and southern Germany). Eisbein is pickled and boiled or cured, resulting in a soft, tender skin (traditional in Northern and Eastern Germany). What sides go best with Schweinshaxe? Schweinshaxe is traditionally served with potato dumplings (Kartoffelknödel) or boiled potatoes, tangy sauerkraut, red cabbage, a rich dark beer gravy (Dunkelbiersoße), and a cold glass of German dark lager or wheat beer. How do you get the skin on Schweinshaxe extra crispy? The secret to crackling skin is scoring the fat layer without cutting into the meat, drying the skin thoroughly before roasting, and giving it a burst of high heat (around 220°C / 425°F) for the final 15–20 minutes of cooking.

Dartmoor offers some of the most exhilarating walking terrain in the West Country—vast open spaces, granite tors, rushing river valleys, and miles of open access land. But nothing completes a trek across the high moor quite like ending up in front of a real fire with a pint of local real ale and a plate of hearty pub food. Here are six classic Dartmoor circular walks, taking in everything from quiet river valleys and ancient ice works to dramatic gorge paths, each paired with a brilliant, active pub right on the route. IF YOU ENJOY THIS POST CHECK OUT OUR OTHER DARTMOOR HIKES HERE 1. Swincombe & West Dart River Circular Stepping stones cross the river near Hexworthy on Dartmoor Location: Hexworthy / Central Dartmoor Distance: Approx. 6 miles Terrain: Open moorland paths, grassy tracks, and river valleys (can be muddy after wet weather). Nearest Pub: The Forest Inn, Hexworthy (PL20 6SD) – Open and serving traditional food and local ales. The Route Certain zones in the West Country are richer in walks than others, and the area of Dartmoor just south of the B3367 Princetown to Ashburton road—above and beyond the wild shores of the West Dart—is a prime example. Think big bald open spaces, vast skies, and plenty of room to breathe. Old farm ruins on the Hexworthy walk, Dartmoor Starting near Hexworthy, the trek follows the Dartmoor Way west, dropping down around a shoulder of hill to meet the River Swincombe. The route passes the evocative ruins known locally as "John Bishop’s house" before climbing west towards Princetown over public access land. Passing Moorlands Farm, the path crosses the West Dart River via the charming hump-backed bridge near the Dartmoor Training Centre, heading past the Prince Hall area to meet the Princetown road. Crossing over to the open access commons, the walk loops east over Cherry Brook, past Dunnabridge Pound, and drops south via Downberry to trace the north bank of the West Dart back to the Swincombe stepping stones and Hexworthy. The Pub Stop: Located right in the hamlet, The Forest Inn makes an ideal base before or after tackling the Swincombe and West Dart access lands. 2. Sourton Tors & The Historic Ice Works Location: Sourton (just south of Okehampton) Distance: Approx. 2.5 miles Terrain: Grassy moorland tracks and steep ridges. Nearest Pub: The Highwayman Inn, Sourton (EX20 4HN) – Open and famous for its eclectic, fairytale interior and traditional hospitality. Walking up towards Sourton Tors The Route You don’t get much cooler than Dartmoor’s lofty, windswept north-western corner—which, presumably, is why the entrepreneurs of old built the Ice Works where they did. Years ago, long before electric refrigeration, someone came up with the bright idea of "capturing" the ice formed on the high hills by cutting a series of huge rectangular troughs running ladder-fashion across the hill beneath a spring. Starting from the hamlet of Sourton (just below the church), head up onto the moors through an ancient stone-walled drift funnel crossing the line of the old railway. Taking the grassy path that curves up around the northern end of the ridge brings you to the fascinating archaeological site of the Ice Works—a grid of long depressions where ice was once harvested and packed in fern for Devon's fishmongers and trawlers. Continue up to the rocky heights of Sourton Tors, which offer panoramic sunset views stretching across Devon and Cornwall, before returning down the small coombe opposite Lake Down. The Pub Stop: After descending back into the hamlet, head straight to The Highwayman Inn at Sourton, arguably one of the most remarkable and characterful inns on Dartmoor. Looking down on Sourton village, West Dartmoor 3. Belstone, Taw Marsh & Steeperton Tor Location: Belstone (near Okehampton) Distance: Approx. 7 miles Terrain: Rough moorland tracks, river paths, and boulder-strewn ridges. Nearest Pub: The Tors Inn, Belstone (EX20 1QZ) – Open and situated right on the edge of the village green. The view above Belstone Cleave, The Route Belstone is a remarkably picturesque moorland village, largely unspoilt and perched high above the A30. Setting off from the common down the lane, a rough track follows the tumbling, rushing waterfalls of the River Taw upstream into the northern wilderness. Suddenly, the river settles into sleek, quiet pools, opening out into Taw Marsh—a quiet plain ringed by great hills, dominated by the sharp peak of Steeperton Tor. The route climbs diagonally up Oke Tor, where pancake-stacked granite rocks offer shelter from the moorland gales. Continuing south toward the watershed near Okement Hill to view the lonely source at Taw Head, the return leg traces the high ridge across Belstone Tor—offering sweeping views over North Devon—and drops back over Belstone Common past the Nine Maidens stone circle. The Pub Stop: Finish right back in the village at The Tors Inn, an ideal spot for a post-hike drink and warm meal overlooking the moor. The village of Belstone, 4. Lustleigh Cleave & Hunters Tor Location: Lustleigh / Eastern Dartmoor Distance: Approx. 4.5 to 5 miles Terrain: Steep woodland tracks, boulder-strewn paths, and high granite ridges. Nearest Pub: The Cleave, Lustleigh (TQ13 9TJ) – Open, thatched village pub serving local real ales. Walkers above Lustleigh Cleave, Dartmoor The Route Lustleigh Cleave is one of the most picturesque river valleys on Dartmoor, where the River Bovey cuts a deep, boulder-choked ravine through ancient woodland. Starting from the picture-postcard village of Lustleigh, the walk climbs through dense canopy out onto the high granite ridge of Sharpitor and Hunters Tor. From the top, you are rewarded with dramatic panoramas over the valley, Harton Chest, and the surrounding moors. The descent winds back through quiet woodland paths and mossy lanes, dropping back down into the shelter of the village. The Pub Stop: The Cleave in Lustleigh is a classic thatched West Country pub offering great local beers, warm food, and a sun-drenched garden in summer or open fires in winter. Travel writer Martin Hesp (centre) has a chat and a pint at The Cleave, 5. Lydford Gorge & The Waterfall Loop Location: Lydford (West Dartmoor) Distance: Approx. 3 to 3.5 miles Terrain: Deep gorge paths, wooden walkways, steps, and steep riverbank tracks. Nearest Pub: The Castle Inn, Lydford (EX20 4BH) – Historic 16th-century inn located right next to Lydford Castle, open daily. Lydford Castle The Route Lydford Gorge is the deepest river gorge in the South West, famous for the roaring 30-metre Whitelady Waterfall and the dark, churning waters of the Devil’s Cauldron. Most of this hike is located within the area owned by the National Trust and the gorge itslef it a paid-for entry feature. Starting in the historic village of Lydford, the path drops steeply down into the ravine, following the River Lyd as it carves its way through steep wooden slopes. The route takes you along narrow cliffside paths, over wooden bridges, and past spectacular rock formations where the water crashes through ancient slate walls. After taking in the Devil's Cauldron, the path climbs back up out of the gorge into the village. The Pub Stop: Right next to the medieval castle ruins sits The Castle Inn, a low-ceilinged, character-filled pub with slate floors, open fires, and local Devon ales. Lydford Church 6. Princetown & The Central High Moor Loop Location: Princetown Distance: Approx. 5 miles Terrain: Gravel tracks, old railway lines, and exposed moorland paths. Nearest Pub: The Plume of Feathers, Princetown (PL20 6QQ) – Historic, refurbished moorland inn open Wednesday through Sunday. The village of Princetown lurks high above the moorland road The Route Princetown sits high in the heart of Dartmoor, shrouded in mist, history, and the imposing presence of Dartmoor Prison. Starting in the centre of the village, this walk follows the disused Princetown railway track—a flat, easy-going track that winds around North Hisworthy Tor with magnificent views down towards Burrator and the western moors. The loop cuts across open access heathland toward Kings Tor, passing granite quarries that once supplied stone for London’s bridges, before circling back across the high moor into Princetown. The Pub Stop: The Prince of Wales Hotel is the oldest building in Princetown, offering a huge welcome to cold, windblown walkers with its newly refurbished bar, local Dartmoor Jail Ale, and hot meals. The ancient stone rows at Merrivale on the Princetown pub walk Frequently Asked Questions About Dartmoor Pub Walks Are Dartmoor pubs dog-friendly? Yes, virtually all traditional Dartmoor pubs welcome dogs in the bar areas, provided they are kept on leads. Because cattle, sheep, and ponies graze freely across Dartmoor, dogs must also be kept under strict control on the trails. What maps do I need for walking on Dartmoor? The best map for hiking these routes is the Ordnance Survey Outdoor Leisure Map 28 (OL28) – Dartmoor (1:25,000 scale). It clearly marks public footpaths, bridleways, and open access land boundaries. Do I need special gear for Dartmoor walks? Even short walks on Dartmoor can experience rapid changes in weather. Good waterproof walking boots are essential, as ground can turn boggy quickly. Always pack a waterproof jacket, a warm layer, and a map or compass, even on sunny days.

Fingle Bridge and The Angler's Rest pub, Teign Gorge, Devon Devon is a land of endless variety. While we often celebrate its dramatic sea-cliffs, hidden coves, and sweeping river valleys, there are times when it’s thoroughly refreshing to discover something new, distinct, and unexpected. Whether you are seeking the salty air of open dune-lands, a cool retreat into a shadowy river gorge, or a high-ridge march across ancient heathland, nothing completes a West Country walk quite like a welcoming pub at the end. Here are six outstanding Devon pub walks—condensed from my travels across the county—designed to show off the very best of our landscape and local hospitality. IF YOU ENJOY THIS POST CHECK OUT OUR OTHER DEVON WALKS HERE An old anchor is a feature of the quay at Appledore, North Devon 1. Appledore Circular & Northam Burrows Appledore… what a lovely name, and what a fine place perched on the banks of the River Torridge where it meets the Taw before making a grand entrance into Bideford Bay. Turning our backs on gentle river valleys and rolling forests, Northam Burrows offers something novel: a magical dune-land jutting into the bay. The peninsula is reminiscent of Holland or Texel off the coast of Friesland—a big flat piece of sandy jetsam anchored on the Devon coast. Starting from Appledore's historic harbour, a twenty-minute stroll around the peninsula brings you to the Country Park. Crossing the spiky Sharp Rush and the shingle ridge leads down onto the sweeping three-kilometre sandy beach extending from Westward Ho! (the only place name boasting an exclamation mark). Out towards Zulu Sands, gulls gather where razor-shell beds thrive, while sheep and ponies—grazed by local 'potwallopers' holding ancient common rights—mooch contentedly alongside the South West Coast Path. Heading back along the river shore, you pass The Skern, a quiet salt-marsh creek famed for its wading birds and rare winged visitors. From there, it is only a matter of minutes back into the heart of Appledore for well-earned coastal refreshment. A view across Northam Burows to Appledore, Devon Fact File Start/Finish: Appledore Harbour / Northam Burrows Country Park Distance & Terrain: 4.5 miles; flat terrain across pavements, grassy tracks, and sandy/shingle beach. Recommended Map: OS Explorer 139 (Bideford, Ilfracombe & Barnstaple) Featured Pub: The Beaver Inn, Irsha Street, Appledore, EX39 1RY Pub Details: A historic, dog-friendly maritime pub situated right on the Torridge estuary edge. Renowned for fresh local seafood, real ales, and an outdoor terrace with sweeping water views. Open daily for food and drinks. Website: www.beaverinn.co.uk From Branscombe looking towards Beer Head, East Devon 2. Branscombe to Beer Circular The coombe leading down to the shore at Branscombe Mouth is bathed in glorious light where sea meets sky. Ascending from the beach brings you past an agreeable, scattered caravan site into the Undercliff—Devon’s very own jungle zone, where a mother-cliff plunges into the sea and creates a sheltered, contorted natural amphitheatre. In decades past, this frost-free haven hosted celebrated cliffside agriculture. Fishermen-farmers tilled steep plots known as 'plats', fertilising early broad beans, strawberries, and famous Branscombe spuds with sea-kelp hauled up by donkeys. Today, the warm, micro-climatic Undercliff thrives with wildlife; peregrine falcons soar overhead while Speckled Wood butterflies flutter through the sunny glades. Ascending towards Beer Head brings you onto the high chalk plateau above gleaming white cliffs. The path curls down into one of the most charming cove villages in the South West. After sampling fresh local crab by the beach in Beer, an inland public right of way leads back across the high downs directly to Branscombe. The seaside village of Beer as seen from the sea Fact File Start/Finish: Branscombe Mouth Distance & Terrain: 4 miles; moderate going with coastal ascents and undulating Undercliff paths. Recommended Map: OS Explorer 115 & 116 (Exeter & Sidmouth / Lyme Regis) Featured Pub: The Anchor Inn, Fore Street, Beer, EX12 3ET Pub Details: A classic, characterful cliffside inn overlooking Beer’s shingle beach and fishing boats. Serves regional real ales and locally caught seafood, featuring a cliff-top beer garden with stunning sea views. Open daily year-round. Website: www.anchorinnbeer.co.uk View of Bigbury Bay looking from the top of Burgh Island 3. Bigbury, Ringmore & Ayrmer Cove Circular No visit to Bigbury-on-Sea is complete without eyeing Burgh Island, lurking 270 yards offshore. Reachable on foot at low tide or via the famous sea-tractor, this historic isle was home to pilchard fishers, ancient monasteries, and legendary smugglers. Using those illicit maritime links as our guide, this walk strikes west around Warren Point along the South West Coast Path into Challaborough Bay before heading inland. Climbing above Black Stone brings you to an inland path heading toward Ringmore—a stretch known locally as 'Reptile Alley' for its sunbathing lizards and adders. Ringmore itself is a quintessential thatched village anchored by a historic pub rich in smuggling lore. From the village, an antediluvian leafy byway—the old smugglers' track—winds down into picturesque Ayrmer Cove, a secluded jewel framed by high, rugged cliffs where ancient galleons once wrecked. After exploring the quiet strand, a short, steep climb to Toby's Point reveals panoramic vistas across the whole of Bigbury Bay before returning you along the coastal path. Ayrmer Cove in South Devon as seen from the Smuggler's Path Fact File Start/Finish: Bigbury-on-Sea Car Park Distance & Terrain: 3.4 miles; moderate with a couple of short, steep climbs. Recommended Map: OS Explorer 102 (Brixham & Dartmouth) Featured Pub: Journey's End Inn, Ringmore, TQ7 4HL Pub Details: A gorgeous 13th-century thatched pub hidden in the valley at Ringmore. Full of historic character, flagstone floors, and log fires, offering fine cask ales and top-quality seasonal dishes. Open daily for lunch and evening service. Website: www.thejourneysendinn.co.uk Walkers admiring the old signaller's hut at Culmstock Becon 4. Wellington Monument to Culmstock Beacon The Blackdown Hills Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty represents one of the most unspoilt inland landscapes in the Westcountry. This high-ridge walk explores an extraordinary flat-topped escarpment that reaches out like a giant diving board into the green patchwork of mid-Devon. Starting near Crossways Farm, an ancient ridgeway tracks through Forestry Commission woodlands onto Blackdown Common—a wild, heather-clad heath that feels like a preserved piece of ancient England. Striking south-west along the escarpment reveals sweeping, multi-county panoramas before arriving at Culmstock Beacon. Here stands what is believed to be the only surviving 16th-century stone beacon house in England, built to signal the approach of the Spanish Armada. Descending the steep slope past Pitt Farm brings you into the verdant valley below. Crossing the gentle River Culm, the path tracks alongside water meadows into Culmstock—an idyllic village anchored by its ancient church and an outstanding riverside pub. The path crosses meadows to reach Culmstock, Devon Fact File Start/Finish: Crossways Farm / Culmstock Village Distance & Terrain: 5 miles (linear); easy ridgeway walking followed by one steep descent and riverside paths. Recommended Map: OS Explorer 128 (Taunton & Blackdown Hills) Featured Pub: The Culm Valley Inn, Woodgate Road, Culmstock, EX15 3JH Pub Details: A celebrated, quirky riverside free house bursting with charm and local atmosphere. Famous for its exceptional pub food, generous cold platters, board specials, and excellent local ales. Positioned right beside the River Culm. Open daily. Website: www.culmvalleyinn.co.uk 5. The coastal rock strata at Hartland Quay Southern Circular This circular hike delivers some of the most dramatic and savage coastal landscape in the British Isles. Starting from the Rocket House high above Hartland Quay—once home to brave rocket-rescuer squads who saved sailors from windward shipwrecks—the route descends past the historic quay buildings and museum nestled beneath towering dark cliffs. Heading south along the coast path, you climb above Screda Point before reaching the strange, flat-bottomed amphitheatre surrounding St Catherine’s Tor. This miniature half-mountain is wrapped in legend, said to have hosted hermitages for both St Catherine and Celtic Saint Nectan, as well as ancient Roman activity. Beyond, contorted grey slate cliffs—twisted by geological forces into sharp, pointed arches—lead to Speke’s Mill Mouth, where a mountain stream plunges over the cliff edge in dramatic waterfalls. Turning inland up the wooded valley leads to Milford and onwards to Stoke. Here, the 14th-century St Nectan’s Church boasts Devon’s second-tallest tower. A quiet path through neighbouring fields returns you directly to the Rocket House overlooking the Atlantic surge. The coast south of Hartland Quay, Fact File Start/Finish: Hartland Quay Rocket House Car Park Distance & Terrain: 4.2 miles; rugged and strenuous in places with steep coastal ascents. Recommended Map: OS Explorer 126 (Clovelly & Hartland) Featured Pub: The Wreckers Retreat (Hartland Quay Hotel), Hartland EX39 6DU Pub Details: Perched right on the granite edge of the Atlantic Ocean, this uniquely atmospheric bar is packed with nautical memorabilia and shipwreck relics. Serves hearty pub food, local beers, and stunning sunset views over the breaking waves. Open daily year-round. Website: www.hartlandquayhotel.co.uk The Angler's Rest at Fingle Bridge in the Teign Gorge 6. Fingle Bridge & The Teign Gorge When summer heat hits, there is no finer retreat than the shadowy depth of the Teign Gorge. Hidden below Dartmoor’s high eastern fringes, this dramatic defile traps the icy freshness of the moorland river, creating a cool, sheltered sanctuary of oak woods and rushing water. YOU CAN SEE MORE DARTMOOR WALKS HERE Starting at the medieval stone arches of Fingle Bridge, cross to the southern bank and follow the riverside track upstream through Hannicombe and Whiddon Woods. Passing the historic turbine house—which generated hydro-electricity for Castle Drogo until 1994—a rustic footbridge leads across the foaming river. Pausing on the bridge offers views of the Teign roaring down over granite boulders and rocky slabs. The return path follows the northern bank beneath the towering cliffs of Sharp Tor and Hunters Tor. National Trust steps guide you around rocky buttresses where the roar of white water echoes through the trees, eventually delivering you straight back to the idyllic riverside inn at Fingle Bridge. Fact File Start/Finish: Fingle Bridge, Drewsteignton Distance & Terrain: 3 miles; easy to moderate riverside loop with well-defined paths and occasional rocky steps. Recommended Map: OS Explorer OL28 (Dartmoor) Featured Pub: Fingle Bridge Inn, Drewsteignton, Exeter, EX6 6QU Pub Details: Nestled right on the banks of the River Teign at the base of the gorge. Features a large riverside beer garden under the trees, cozy indoor fires, real ales, and classic pub fare. A beloved haven for walkers, dogs, and families. Open daily. Website: www.finglebridgeinn.co.uk The cooling hike in the Teign Gorge Frequently Asked Questions: Walking & Real Ale in Devon Why is Devon considered such a premier county for pub walks? Devon combines thousands of miles of public rights of way—stretching across two national parks (Dartmoor and Exmoor) and two coasts—with a exceptionally rich pub culture. Across Devon's active CAMRA branches (including North Devon, Exeter & East Devon, and South Devon), the county boasts hundreds of traditional free houses and independent inns dedicated to maintaining proper cask-conditioned ales, local ciders, and regional hospitality right on the trail. What should walkers look for in a great CAMRA-worthy country pub? For beer enthusiasts and ramblers alike, a great West Country pub offers well-kept cask real ales served via traditional handpull (or straight from the gravity barrel), local real ciders, log fires in winter, and a warm welcome for mud-splattered boots and dogs. Look out for pubs listed in CAMRA’s Good Beer Guide or those flying the flag for local Devon breweries and microbreweries such as Otter, Dartmoor, Clearwater, and Hanlons. Are these pub walks suitable year-round? Yes, though each season brings a different charm. High coastal paths like Hartland Quay or the Blackdown ridge offer dramatic winter vistas, while sheltered spots like the Teign Gorge or Branscombe Undercliff provide cool sanctuary in the height of summer. While the featured pubs are open year-round, it is always wise to check individual pub opening times—particularly for weekday food service outside peak holiday months. Do I need specialist hiking gear for these routes? Most of these six walks follow well-trodden sections of the South West Coast Path, National Trust trails, or public rights of way. A good pair of sturdy walking shoes or boots, a waterproof jacket, and an Ordnance Survey map (or OS Maps app) are recommended. Routes with steep drops or slippery slate (such as Hartland Quay or the Undercliffs) require reasonable footwear, especially after heavy rain.

Having stayed at the wonderful Victoria Hotel in Sidmouth recently, we enjoyed a couple of fantastic local walks. Here’s one to the east of town… The beach looking east along Salcombe Regis Mouth Each time I embark on one of these hikes the West Country seems to shrink. Slowly, gradually, an enormous mental jig-saw puzzle is falling into place piece by piece. Distant hills that were once nothing more than an amorphous horizon are now old friends which have been tramped, researched and written about. Great vales and vistas weave between the uplands and each contains a half-dozen hikes between river-source and sea. From one hill you see a neighbouring plateau; a valley curves north or south to meet another; a bay is terminated by a headland that you have spied before from far away.... Approaching the beach down at Salcombe Regis Mouth, There comes a time when you begin to realise the linkage of it all. Your perception of the peninsula then encompasses a single sense of place, regardless of county divides. But there are a few exceptions to this rule. My own beloved West Somerset is one - sealed from the rest of the world by its great ring of hills and its Bristol Channel shore, the area seems to occupy a magical sphere of its own. If you're looking for more local routes ending at a great inn, check out my guide to Six Great Pub Walks in Devon East Devon, beyond High Peak is another. The big hills that curve east from that mighty brow consign this region to an altogether different sphere of influence. From Sidmouth to Seaton and beyond, you are somehow rooted in Wessex rather than the West. Chalk and flint, cretaceous greensand and red triassic Keuper marl - they are the new and different bare bones that make this place what it is. Geology is everything. It shapes hills and valleys just as surely as it can alter the taste of cheese or wine. On this hike we will see the last, westernmost outcrops of Britain's chalk. Big bold, dramatic outcrops they are too. Carved by wind and rain, the tall white ramparts that are Rempstone Rocks play host to kestrel and raven and offer some of the best views east to Portland Bill to be found anywhere along the coast. Looking down into Salcombe Regis Mouth, East Devon Our walk begins at Salcombe Hill high above Sidmouth. You can get to it from the main A3052 Exeter to Dorchester road. From here I followed the upper contours of the steep valley to the east so I could take a look at Salcombe Regis is a pretty little village boasting a fine old church. From modest beginnings hereabouts, this valley extends itself into a broad and rather spectacular 'V' that is terminated abruptly by the workings of the sea. Check out our Devon walks page here Down it we walked - at first on a made-up road, and then through the yard at Coombe Wood Farm to reach the fields beyond. Basically you are in the business of linking up with the Coast Path and at the farm you have a choice of routes: one that goes straight down towards the sea. or the one you'll see ascending to the left. We popped down to the beach at Salcombe Mouth and then paid for it by having to climb the steep contours to over Dunscombe Cliff. At the top you can admire the fine coastal views before heading off east towards a fascinating area known as Dunscombe Humps. The National Trust, which owns this area, tells me this was the place where chalk was once burnt to make lime, and that piles of discarded flints are what remains from the process which ceased in 1906. This surprised me as the humps looked as if they adorned this steep coast for a lot longer than that. In one place there is a sort of secret chasm. We squeezed through the thicket and found ourselves in a church-sized hole which would have been a smuggler's dream. A few brambles tied across the mouth would keep your booty safe from the excise-man forever and a day... Suddenly the humps give way to an abyss. A very handsome and decorative abyss - but an abyss nevertheless, where terra-firm ceases to exist in a most abrupt and airy of ways. We have arrived at the aforementioned Rempstone Rocks and all I can say here - apart from mentioning their chalky, westerly claim to fame in the record books - is watch your step. At 520 feet they are the highest cliffs on the South Devon Coast and the Trust leaflet says: "being composed of soft material, are notoriously liable to slump and slip." It adds, "The visitor will spot a number of ledges or platforms on the cliff slope, some of them occupied by summer bungalows or caravans." The beach at Salcombe Regis Mouth Indeed, our hike now plunges us into the wooded and hidden demesne of a caravan park, but first allow me to mention broad beans - not only because I am inordinately fond of these green, toothsome wonders, but because they (along with spuds and sundry other veg) were once grown on these south-facing, frost-free platforms - or plats as they were known. Seaweed was collected from the beach far below at Weston Mouth and brought up here by donkey. Children helped and the whole sea-facing area between here and Branscombe was a sort of salty garden before mass-food production consigned such endeavours to the great compost bin called quantity-over-quality. The short, dull afternoon turned dark and so we cut Weston Mouth from our tour and scuttled through the caravan park inland to the lane where we turned left for the brief half-mile walk back to Salcombe Regis. Another, rather obscure but beautiful, piece of the West Country jigsaw found and placed neatly into the great peninsula puzzle. Fact File Basic Hike From Salcombe Regis just east of Sidmouth, to Coast Path, then east before turning inland to Dunscombe and returning along the lane. Recommended Map: Ordnance Survey Explorer 115. Distance and going: Just over four miles, steep and muddy in one or two places. Lock on to the Lockyer The Norman Lockyer Observatory is located just metres from the beginning of this walk. It is both an observatory and home to an active amateur astronomical society. Run by volunteers, it isn’t always open - but pay it a visit by checking out the opening times at http://normanlockyer.com Sightseeing at Sidmouth Far below the beginning of the walk to the west is Sidmouth - one of the most charming coastal resorts on the entire West Country littoral. Do pop down to town for refreshments - there are plenty of excellent watering holes in town. Watch out at Weston Mouth I’d recommend plunging down the wooded valley to Weston Mouth if you have the time. But one slight warning - if you go on a warmish day you might be confronted by bare bodies on the beach - it is a well known haunt for naturists. Frequently Asked Questions: Salcombe Regis & East Devon Coastal Walk How long is the Salcombe Regis to Dunscombe coastal walk? This circular walk is just over 4 miles long and takes roughly 2 to 2.5 hours to complete. While relatively short, the route includes a couple of steep ascents and descents around Salcombe Mouth and Dunscombe Cliff, requiring moderate fitness. What are the Dunscombe Humps and Rempstone Rocks? The Dunscombe Humps are the historic remnants of chalk lime-burning pits and discarded flint piles that were worked until 1906. Rempstone Rocks are dramatic, 520-foot high chalk cliffs—the highest on the South Devon coast—representing the westernmost outcrop of chalk in Great Britain. Where do you park for the Salcombe Regis circular walk? Walkers can start at Salcombe Regis village or park at the Salcombe Hill car park near the Norman Lockyer Observatory just off the A3052. From there, public footpaths lead down through the valley towards Coombe Wood Farm and the South West Coast Path. Are there pub or refreshment stops nearby? While there are no pubs directly in the quiet hamlet of Salcombe Regis, the historic coastal town of Sidmouth is situated just two miles west, offering excellent local pubs, traditional tea rooms, and sea-front dining. ***