We all enjoy fresh food, but have you ever stopped to think how far it has travelled? Across Britain, farm shops, farmers' markets and independent producers are bringing people closer to the source of their food. Choosing local produce isn't just about flavour—it supports rural communities, reduces food miles and keeps traditional farming alive. It can be the little things that you miss… And what I miss right now are those little honesty boxes you used to see dotted all over the place selling a few home-grown vegetables and eggs. I am now the proud owner of a brace of carrots and three onions. That’s it on the Hesp vegetable front. Thank god for wild garlic and stinging nettles… We’ve got pulses and some other dried veg that I put in jars last year in times of plenty - life dried wild mushrooms and apple rings - and we’ve got some meat in the freezer I managed to rescue from my storm damaged outbuilding. But if you are in lockdown and not going anywhere near major shops or supermarkets, fresh green vegetables are a difficult thing to come by. Why Local Food Tastes Better Oh for those little honesty boxes you used to see. There are not so many now, alas, but in my 20 years working for the Western Morning News as a roving feature wearer I built up a mental network of such places where I’d call to buy fresh vegetables, eggs and the like from the gateways of little smallholdings here and there or just from places where very good gardeners had a surplus which they’d sell for a few pounds, or more likely pence… The Benefits of Seasonal Eating Here’s what a reader called Rosie Oxenham, of North Devon, once wrote to me in an eloquently call for us to do more to celebrate the region’s micro-producers. … “I absolutely adore being out in the wilds, turning a corner, and there… a table or cupboard outside a cottage, selling their own produce,” enthused Rosie. But she added: “It is a rare sight these days - so all the more thrilling to find. Sweet-peas tied up with wool in little bunches - giving off a perfume that no shop flowers ever have - freshly laid brown eggs, cakes, lettuce, bundles of runner beans, the most delicious jams and chutneys, pots of herbs and plants. It is endless. The 'honesty box' for payment, often holding small change… “Ah, that feeling of being watched - so that you make all your actions in an exaggerated way to prove you are honest!” The old street market at Holsworthy Supporting Local Farmers I knew exactly what Rosie meant - and now wish the my parish had a few such places where we could do a bit of hyper-local germ-free shopping for home-grown items. My old friend, Matthew Mason, once head chef at the hugely successful Jack in the Green at Rockbeare, just outside Exeter, is another fan of such places… “I run to work most days so I spend an awful lot of time in country lanes,” Matt once told me. “If there’s a breed of cow, I’m interested. If I run past the fresh eggs on sale out in front of the cottages, I’m interested. You get boxes of cooking apples on sale – then I know it’s time to get apple sauce with pork on Sunday.” Matt Mason collecting local vegetables Matthew has been at Jack in the Green for more than a quarter of a century and is a long-term adherent to the concept that food should come from a local landscape – the “terroire” as the French call it. “It is all about the quality - you mentioned terroire and that is what should be happening here in the West Country. But it's as much about the people as well - you have to forge these relationships and that’s just as important.” A spring vegetable dish created by chef Matt Mason Reducing Food Miles All this - and the old fashioned farm gate honesty box - is a long way from the food we have become used to buying. The idea that we eat burgers from cattle raised in prairies that were recently Brazilian rainforest, that we consume lettuce leaves grown hydroponically in polluting Spanish poly-tunnels, that we slurp fruit drinks made from industrially grown produce located thousands of miles from our own homely orchards… all this is crazy. In his book We Want Real Food, my good friend Graham Harvey describes how he recently looked down on the M5 while standing on a bridge in the West Country – his intention was to count how many food lorries would pass under his feet within an hour. After 20 minutes he gave up. Writer Graham Harvey taking a stroll through gardens in Somerset with actor and cider-maker Tim Bannerman Why Restaurants Should Source Locally “By then the total stood at 36, most of them in the livery of the major supermarkets,” writes Graham who for many years was agricultural story editor of the BBC radio soap, The Archers. “And I hadn’t even counted the unmarked refrigerated trucks that seemed very likely to be carrying food. “Every hour of the day, thousands of food products are hauled across the road system of Britain,” he says. “Food transport now accounts for a quarter of all miles driven in the UK by heavy goods vehicles, and it’s responsible for almost ten million tonnes of carbon dioxide emissions.” In the book, Graham despairs over the ruination of the nation’s rich fertile soils caused by what has, until now, been a rapidly increasing reliance on chemical fertilisers, herbicides and pesticides – and he pleads for the good, sensible, tried and tested, agricultural techniques of yesteryear. Techniques that were once prevalent in the hills and dales of the West Country… Not far from where Graham was standing on the motorway bridge there is a beautiful, largely unspoilt vale that is a heavenly patchwork of fields, woods and hedges. The rich and fertile valley is formed of new red sandstones in which you can grow just about anything, and it is protected from the weather by the hills of the Brendon and Quantock escarpments. As Mr Harvey explains in his book, this vale was once referred to as “hillock and dingle country” by the writer H.J. Massingham, who was an astute observer of rural matters in the 1930’s and 40’s. Massingham came to West Somerset to visit farmers in the vale and was hugely impressed by their farming techniques. Relying on no artificial fertilisers whatsoever, most were able to harvest huge quantities of produce from relatively small parcels of land. “One couple grew enough on their tiny four and half acre plot to feed an entire village,” says Mr Harvey, who has made a study of Massingham’s work. “Their wartime crops included strawberries, early and main crop potatoes, orchard fruits, plus a greater diversity of vegetables than many a grower with 44 acres of ‘fat and level land’. How Villagers in the South West Would Feed Themselves From Within the Parish “In addition there were enough pasture, fodder crops and flowers to support a pony, over 100 chickens, goats, ewes, a breeding sow and her litter of eight, and 30 hives of bees…” It seems almost mind-boggling when you realise that such people barely exist any more. I say that as a person whose own great-grandfather farmed parcels of land in the heart of “hillock and dingle country”. Free range chickens at a farm in Somerset Every village in West Somerset had such people when I was a boy – now I know of not a single one. Graham Harvey calls this “real farming”. It’s the art of growing things without having to go to the bank manager to borrow money to pay the man who sells you the chemicals that grow your crops but which ruin your soil. It’s the sort of age-old farming that relies on the rotation of crops and plenty of good manure gleaned from the animals which live upon the plants you grow. It is a cycle and it is about putting something back as well as taking stuff out. It is not rocket-science. I will return to the subject of real local food - and to chats and interviews I’ve had with Graham - in upcoming posts. You may not have time to read the stuff or to listen to it - but I have a feeling that time is one thing we will all be rich in over the coming weeks, even if we have run out of onions… IF YOU'VE ENJOYED THIS ARTICLE, TAKE A LOOK AT OUR PAGE ON CIDER AND PERRY Frequently Asked Questions Q: Why is locally grown food better? A: Locally grown food is often fresher because it travels a much shorter distance from field to plate. This can mean better flavour, improved nutritional value and a smaller environmental impact through reduced food miles. Q: What are the benefits of buying local food? A: Buying local food supports independent farmers, growers and food producers, helps strengthen rural economies, preserves traditional farming practices and keeps more money within local communities. It also gives shoppers access to seasonal produce at its best. Q: What are food miles? A: Food miles measure the distance food travels from where it is produced to where it is eaten. Reducing food miles can help lower transport emissions and encourage more sustainable food choices, although production methods also play an important role in a food's overall environmental impact. Q: Where can I buy locally grown food in Britain? A: Farm shops, farmers' markets, independent greengrocers, pick-your-own farms and many local delicatessens offer fresh regional produce. Increasingly, restaurants and pubs also highlight locally sourced ingredients on their menus. Q: Why does seasonal food taste better? A: Fruit and vegetables harvested at their natural peak are generally fresher, more flavourful and often require fewer preservatives than produce imported from overseas or grown out of season. Q: How does buying local food help the environment? A: Choosing local produce can reduce transport emissions, support environmentally responsible farming and encourage greater biodiversity. Buying from nearby producers also helps protect the countryside by supporting farms that maintain landscapes and wildlife habitats. Q: Why should visitors look for local food when travelling? A: Sampling local food is one of the best ways to experience a destination's culture and heritage. Whether it's Cornish seafood, Somerset cider, Devon cheeses or Exmoor lamb, regional specialities tell the story of the landscape and the people who produce them. Have you discovered a wonderful farm shop, food producer or market in Britain? I'd love to hear your recommendations in the comments, and don't forget to explore more of my food and travel guides celebrating the very best of the West Country. Milking cattle on the 'Cornish Gouda" farm in Cornwall

When I visited southern St Lucia in the Caribbean 10 years ago I wrote an article which claimed that one of the hotels was the sort of place James Bond would choose for his holidays. I mentioned this to the hotel’s owner over lunch at the time and she and her husband invited me to return for a more in-depth visit. Now I have. It has taken me just over a decade, but my 007 thoughts about the place haven’t changed a jot. Looking out from a Jade Mountain 'sanctuary' In fact, now that I’ve stayed at the twin resorts of Anse Chastanet and Jade Mountain for the best part of a week, I am convinced that the luxury-loving Bond would fit the place with every bit as much aplomb as a steel fist in a silken glove. It has everything a movie director working on a Bond production would require: unbelievably dramatic scenery of the kind you could leap off in a microlite if the need was pressing; huge multi-coloured fish-filled reefs in the clear Caribbean waters through which a hero could swim silently and secretly; a massive private estate in the rain-forest that surrounds the two hotels… The beach at Anse Chastanet Hotels which are so remarkable you know they must have been designed by someone special. In fact, Jade Mountain is regularly named as one of the world’s most beautiful hotels - and often labelled as the top resort in the Caribbean. It is built on a steep slope above a picture-perfect bay and its rooms - or sanctuaries as they are known - have been designed to get the very best out of the stunning view of the iconic twin Piton rock stacks which make up what must be the best known landscape in the tropics. At a Glance Jade Mountain Resort & Anse Chastanet Resort The Vibe Avant-garde architectural drama, ultimate privacy, and quiet opulence. Laid-back beachside luxury, vibrant Caribbean art, and jungle immersion. Accommodation 24 massive "Sanctuaries" completely open to the elements with no fourth wall. Classic estate rooms, breezy hillside gazebos, and beachfront suites. Private Pools Striking, individually designed glass-tiled infinity pools. Focused on beach access and dual calm-water bays. Best For Honeymooners, design lovers, and complete romantic seclusion. Active travellers, scuba divers, nature lovers, and families (ages 15+). Recent Glory Nominated for Saint Lucia's Leading Luxury Resort (World Travel Awards). Named an official Recommended Resort in the Forbes Travel Guide Star Awards. Architectural Drama: The Vision of Nick Troubetzkoy How do you get the best out of a view? Simple. You do not clutter it with something dark and inconvenient like a wall. None of the sanctuaries at Jade Mountain have a fourth wall - instead there is just an infinity pool, fresh air, and panorama. And the place was designed by someone special. The architect behind the concept was Jade Mountain’s owner, a Russian-Canadian architect called Nick Troubetzkoy. Back in the early 1970s he arrived in Saint Lucia to work with a group of architects designing vacation villas and, what was meant to be a brief stint in paradise turned into a lifelong passion for the island and its people. The two hotels in the valley near the town of Soufrière in southern St Lucia now employ no fewer than 550 people and Nick and Karolin Troubetzkoy have a name for being two of the most forward thinking, eco-friendly hoteliers in the Caribbean region. Indeed, Karolin is now president of the Caribbean Hotel and Tourism Association. I mention it here because, for too many years, the Caribbean has been the kind of place where hoteliers concentrate on piling the tourists (mainly American) in and treating them in the kind of way that you can experience anywhere from Miami to Singapore. Same old suites, same old “international” cuisine… The Troubetzkoys do not do this. Instead they embrace what you could describe as “Caribbeanism”. Living Without a Fourth Wall: Inside the Sanctuaries So much so, that the very warm balmy air of the Caribbean comes wafting in through the big beautiful gap where there would normally be a wall. They are developing their estate to grow all the organic produce which is served in their hotels. They are Southern St Lucia’s biggest employer and have a name for looking after their staff with the kind of employee benefits that are sadly not the norm in the region. And so on… All of which I mention in a bid to explain that Anse Chastanet and Jade Mountain are not run of the mill resorts. And I’m talking about anywhere, let alone the Caribbean. They are truly, remarkably, stunning. They are expensive, but a stay there is something that a visitor will never forget. To swim in your own infinity pool to the edge of your own massive sanctuary apartment and peer out over The Pitons is to have your very own James Bond moment. Then you can lean across to the little phone they give you and call your very own butler who will bring you a robe so that you can cross the sanctuary for a rest in a giant four poster bed… As I say, none of this comes cheap at Jade Mountain. But there are people from my region who can afford it (I know that because I met one in St Lucia) and there’s also that “holiday of a lifetime” ambition for the rest of us. Far more affordable is a stay at Anse Chastanet just below Jade Mountain and therefore closer to the wonderful cove I mentioned. You won’t get a sanctuary with an infinity pool, but you will get one of the small and charming villas which Mr Troubetzkoy designed after he bought the estate and before he went on to create his Jade Mountain masterpiece. Indeed, my wife and I were just as happy at Anse Chastanet as we were high above in the butler-serviced home of the gods. Maybe that was because we love St Lucia. It is one of my favourite islands in the world and is certainly the pick of the bunch for me in the Caribbean, not least because there are almost daily flights there from London with airlines like as Virgin Atlantic. The south of the island is mountainous, which is what allows for all those wondrous rainforests - the likes of which you do not see on many Caribbean isles. And the area around Soufrière is particularly scenic - partly because of those amazing Pitons, partly because of the great green backdrop which descends to the cove studded coast and partly because… Well, the area just seems to me to be more Caribbean than anywhere else I know. When I was a child, dreaming of going to such tropical places, this is what I imagined it would be like. And like a lot of boys, a great many of my dreams were inspired by those James Bond movies. Dreams that seem even better having spent time in the place where I reckon 007 would spend his holidays. . TRAVEL FACT FILE: ST. LUCIA Where to Stay Anse Chastanet: Nightly room-only rates start from approximately £435 ($550 USD) per room per night, based on double occupancy. To book, check availability, or view early-bird inclusive meal plans, visit www.ansechastanet.com. Jade Mountain: Nightly room-only rates start from approximately £778 ($985 USD) per sanctuary per night, based on double occupancy, during the value summer-autumn shoulder seasons. Rates climb past £1,082 ($1,370 USD) per night during the peak winter months. To book your stay, visit www.jademountain.com. Note: All nightly rates at both resorts are subject to a 10% service charge, 10% VAT, and the nightly St. Lucia Tourism Authority Accommodation Levy. Getting There Flights: Direct flights from London to St. Lucia's Hewanorra International Airport (UVF) are operated regularly by Virgin Atlantic and British Airways. Return economy fares start at around £785, fluctuating depending on seasonal demand and early-booking promotions. Visit www.virginatlantic.com to check current schedules. Island Information Official Tourism Support: For comprehensive pre-trip planning, entry requirements, local event calendars, and island-wide guide services, explore the official destination portal managed by the Saint Lucia Tourism Authority at www.stlucia.org. Frequently Asked Questions Are Jade Mountain and Anse Chastanet the same resort? They are adjoining sister properties sharing a spectacular 600-acre tropical estate, but they offer completely different luxury concepts. Anse Chastanet is a classic, art-filled beachfront resort nestled into the lush shoreline. Jade Mountain is an exclusive architectural marvel built high on the ridgeline directly above it. Can guests at Anse Chastanet use Jade Mountain’s facilities? While Jade Mountain guests enjoy seamless, privileged access to all of Anse Chastanet's beaches, restaurants, scuba facilities, and bars, Jade Mountain itself—including its infinity pool concierge levels and the Jade Mountain Club—remains exclusively reserved for Jade Mountain residents to protect its signature privacy. Why do the rooms at Jade Mountain only have three walls? Architect Nick Troubetzkoy intentionally omitted the fourth wall in the creation of the Jade Mountain Sanctuaries. This open-concept design eliminates any barrier between the guest and the environment, providing unobstructed views of the UNESCO World Heritage Pitons and allowing natural cooling ocean breezes to flow freely through the space. What is the dining concept at Jade Mountain? The resort champions an estate-to-plate philosophy, headlined by "Jade Cuisine" created by James Beard Award-winning Chef Allen Susser. Much of the produce, alongside specialised hand-crafted single-estate chocolate, is sourced directly from the resort's own organic Emerald Estate Farm. Anse Chastanet also offers diverse dining, including Emerald's, an acclaimed, wholly vegan tapas restaurant.

As it doesn’t seem that many of us will be travelling anywhere exotic for a while I’ve been looking back through some of the more lovely places I have been lucky enough to call at down the years, and this morning was remembering Langkawi, an archipelago made up of 99 islands on Malaysia’s west coast. Arriving in the Jewel of Kedah Just four of these islands are inhabited. What a sensational place it is. I’d never heard of what is sometimes known as the Jewel of Kedah before I reached it by sailing yacht, but the incredibly scenic main island (Pulau Langkawi) is one of the most stunning places I’ve ever visited. Langkawi was historically home to seafarers, such as the orang laut or sea people originally from the southern part of the Malay Peninsula, as well as pirates and fishermen. UNESCO World Geopark Status We arrived shortly after Langkawi Island had been given a World Geopark status by UNESCO. Three of its main conservation areas in Langkawi Geopark are Machincang Cambrian Geoforest Park, Kilim Karst Geoforest Park, and Dayang Bunting Marble Geoforest park (Island of the Pregnant Maiden Lake). Destination Guide Location Andaman Sea, Northwest Coast of Malaysia (Kedah State) UNESCO Status Southeast Asia's first official World Geopark (designated 2007) Must-See Icons Machincang Cable Car & Sky Bridge, Kilim Karst Mangroves Wildlife Highlight Brahminy Kite & White-bellied Sea Eagles Historical Vibe Ancient maritime roots, legendary folklore, and historic seafaring havens Ascending the Machincang Mountains by Cable Car We took a tour that sped us through rice paddies and rubber plantations to eventually reach some steep mountains where we were introduced to a precarious looking cable car that appeared to ascend to heaven. The Langkawi SkyCab Hovering high above a 550-million-year-old UNESCO Geopark, the Langkawi SkyCab is famously one of the steepest cable car rides on earth, conquering a dramatic 42-degree gradient. The 15-minute journey glides 2.2 kilometres from the Oriental Village up to the jagged peak of Gunung Machinchang. Sweeping 70 metres above the pristine, ancient rainforest canopy, the gondolas deliver passengers to viewing platforms 708 metres above sea level. From this breathtaking vantage point, visitors enjoy stunning, 360-degree panoramic views stretching across the sparkling Andaman Sea all the way to the coast of Southern Thailand. Speedboats, Mangroves, and Sea Eagles The vast multi-course lunch that followed repaired my feelings of vertigo, and it was with great enjoyment that I later leapt aboard the crazily fast speedboat that took us out through mangrove swamps to see the sea eagles that are Langkawi’s national bird. Frequently Asked Questions What does the name Langkawi mean? Langkawi is known formally as Langkawi Permata Kedah (the Jewel of Kedah). The name is believed by many to be linked to the Malay word for eagle (helang), specifically referencing the reddish-brown Brahminy kite eagle that makes the island's ancient mangrove forests its home. Why is Langkawi a UNESCO World Geopark? Langkawi was designated Southeast Asia’s first UNESCO World Geopark due to its incredibly unique, ancient rock formations, tidal flats, and pristine landscapes. It consists of three main protected conservation zones: the Machincang Cambrian Geoforest Park, the Kilim Karst Geoforest Park, and the Dayang Bunting Marble Geoforest Park. How do you get to the Langkawi Cable Car? The Langkawi Cable Car (also known as the SkyCab) departs from the Oriental Village at the foot of the Machincang mountain range. It is one of the steepest cable car rides in the world, carrying visitors up to viewing platforms and the famous curved Sky Bridge suspended high above the rainforest canopy. What wildlife can you see in the Langkawi mangroves? A speedboat or kayak tour through the Kilim Karst Geoforest Park offers close encounters with a stunning array of wildlife, including the island's famous white-bellied sea eagles and Brahminy kites, mudskippers, fiddler crabs, otters, and macaque monkeys living along the riverbanks. Pirates of the Andaman Sea For centuries, Langkawi’s labyrinth of 99 islands, hidden limestone caves, and dense mangrove channels made it the ultimate sanctuary for maritime raiders. Strategically positioned at the northern mouth of the Strait of Malacca, these islands sat directly adjacent to the wealthiest shipping lanes of the ancient Spice Route. Orang Laut (sea peoples) and ruthless sea rovers used the sheer karsts of the Kilim river system to ambush heavily laden merchant galleons tracking between India and China. Local folklore dictates that entire caches of plundered gold, porcelain, and weapons remain buried deep within the island's uncharted subterranean caverns, completely reclaimed by the jungle. The Curse of Mahsuri Beyond the lawless buccaneers, Langkawi’s identity is bound to its most famous supernatural tale: the Legend of Mahsuri. In the late 18th century, a beautiful young woman named Mahsuri was falsely accused of adultery by a jealous village matriarch. Sentenced to death, she was tied to a tree and stabbed, but folklore says her wounds bled white fluid—a miraculous sign of her absolute innocence. With her dying breath, Mahsuri cursed Langkawi with seven generations of bad luck and barren fields. Fascinatingly, shortly after her execution, the Siamese invaded the island, forcing the starving locals to burn their own rice granaries to keep them out of enemy hands. For nearly two centuries, Langkawi languished as an isolated, superstitious backwater—only waking from its deep historical slumber when the seven generations finally passed in the late 20th century, paving the way for its modern tourism renaissance.

Just 20 minutes - that’s all we had time for as we entered the central medina in Tunis – and I was fed up because, to do the vast, fascinating, colourful labyrinth justice, you need a day. That was a year ago and I had to be dragged out of the medieval bazaar kicking and screaming, grabbing handfuls of ludicrously cheap herbs and spices as I went. The man from the Tunisian tourist office looked concerned – it hadn’t really struck him that a visitor might find such an untidy, anarchic place quite so absorbing. He was more accustomed to promoting the conventional sites like the impressive ruins at Carthage, and hosting whirlwind tours of five-star hotels. A Living Labyrinth: The Medinas of Tunisia I don’t mind a ruin or two, but give me a vibrant living piece of history any day. And that is exactly what you get in the great medinas of Tunisia. They are genuine organisms of the living past, and do not exist solely to pander to foreign tourists. Other North African and Middle Eastern countries have such places, but sometimes you get the feeling that we Westerners are not altogether welcome. Tunisia is different. There is something altogether more relaxed, less oppressive and less threatening about wandering freely and alone around its crowded market places compared to others I have known – especially these days. Trip GuideThe Route Tunis & Carthage ➔ Port El Kantaoui & Sousse ➔ Yasmine Hammamet Flight Time Approx. 3 hours from London Key Experiences Bargain haggling in medieval medinas, authentic slow-cooked clay pot stews, traditional 'Ghassoul' mud therapy Best For Foodies, culture seekers, and spa enthusiasts looking for an exotic long weekend Entrance to the Souk at Tunis So when the same tourism official offered me a special four-day tour blending visits to the medinas with overnight stays at some of Tunisia’s most luxurious spa beach resorts, I grabbed the trip with all the enthusiasm of an amateur cook let loose in a spice bazaar. It’s the sort of excursion that the more adventurous can enjoy as a long and very exotic weekend. Your days are filled with North African promise, your late afternoons and evenings render you thoroughly pampered. The Sophisticated Flavours of Carthage Arriving at Tunis we were whisked a few miles to the ancient port of Carthage and deposited in the highly sophisticated Corinthia Khamsa Hotel. If you are anything like me, the first thing you want to do upon reaching a country is to taste its cuisine. The experience can somehow set up the trip, and the Corinthia Khamsa was no disappointment when it came to fabulously delicious, authentic, local food. I was attracted by the following item on the menu: “Lamb cooked in a clay spout”. It was just that. The meat stew came rammed into a sort of sealed clay pot which the waiter had to carefully smash with a silver hammer. The cinnamon and other spice flavours which poured forth were intense, but there was also the definite and rather interesting tang of clay. Lost in the Great Warren of Tunis Next morning we were off to the central medina in Tunis. Medina, by the way, means “old town” – and it can be full of various souks (markets) selling anything and everything from cement mixers to spices - taking in clothes, shoes, leatherwork and artwork along the way. The medina at Tunis is everything, and more, that you imagine a Middle Eastern bazaar to be. Forget bothering with a sense of direction – the place is a warren on a huge scale and you must simply wander and hope for the best. We lunched at the famous Dar Bel Haj restaurant which we somehow found in the centre of the medina. It’s an extraordinary old place, tall and cool, lined with thousands of ornate tiles in Moorish style. The food gave us an instance glimpse of Tunisia’s traditional cuisine and also into the generosity of its people. Bowl after bowl of intriguing salads were placed into the middle of the table and we were filled to the brim with strange mixtures of egg, fish and various vegetables long before the meat-laden mains turned up to kill us off. My own best-buy in the medina was a huge, heavy, hooded shepherd’s cloak made from a sort of felt. On cold winter days this 20 euro bargain now provides me with the warmest dressing gown ever invented. After a day haggling (yes, haggling is almost compulsory when attempting to buy anything in the souk) we travelled south to the modern coastal resort of Port El Kantaoui. An early evening stroll around the marina provided us with the wind-down necessary after two hours spent on somewhat alarming Tunisian roads, and I soaked away a further hour in Hotel Hasdrudal’s wonderful seawater swimming pool which is equipped with any number of muscle relaxing jets and whirlpools. The next morning I strolled down the boardwalk through the dunes and found myself on an endless white beach that was empty save for a man on a moped who dashed along the waters edge as fast as the thing would go. Apart from him, I was utterly alone. Fresh Fish and Eerie Footprints in Sousse South of Port El Kantaoui we arrived at the ancient coastal town of Sousse where we spent the morning in another vast medina. This one is somehow lighter and more airy than the capital’s old town, but extensively labyrinthine nevertheless. The stall-holders and shopkeepers are a little more used to European tourists and so hit you with a harder sell, but we were soon able to find refuge from both the haggling and the heat in a cool, subterranean bar that seemed to sell nothing but the fresh crushed juice of various fruits. Refuelled, I spent an hour looking around the various food markets and drooled, not only at the vast array of produce on offer, but also at the prices. Fresh fish was piled in small mountains, each of which cost less than a British portion of chips. The vegetables were even cheaper. A pile of multi-coloured carrots caught my eye – they looked for all the world like a sort of ice lollypop I remember buying as a kid. Also impressive were vast piles of the whitest and largest bulbs of fennel I’ve ever seen. The only off-putting section of the market was Sousse’s version of Barnstaple’s Butcher’s Row. Not nice. Sheep heads lay forlornly on chopping blocks with their sad dead eyes glinting in the sun. Everywhere there was blood and bone, tripe and lung. The place yelled death, which I suppose, is what a butcher’s is really all about. After Sousse we visited the modern resort of Yasmine Hammamet where we were taken around the brand new medina. The Ghassoul: Mud, Steam, and Ancient Araby Then for the ultimate relaxation: we travelled up the coast to the older town of Hammamet where staff at the palatial Nahrawess Hotel had what they described as a “surprise” in store for us. As he led us to hotel’s the £multi-million new spa facility, the manager said he would not tell us what was about to befall us because it would spoil the experience – but he did divulge that it was one of only seven such facilities in the world. Ten minutes later every inch of me was caked in mud. Five minutes after that I was sitting in a hot, dark, cavern under artificial star-light listening to sounds of wavelets washing gently upon a shore. Aromatic clouds of steam billowed from a large tiled receptacle in the middle of the strange room and I slid further and further into the sculpted seat which was equipped with tiny rivers of water to help you keep cool. The “ghassoul” – to give it the official name – was the most relaxing thing I’d ever done. Weird dreams of Ancient Araby overtook me… Until it jets of cold water began to spray from every orifice in the room. At this point white coated girls entered bearing hosepipes. The mud was blasted from every human surface. All very odd. But strangely, ethereally, enjoyable. And that, in some ways, is the best way of encapsulating a short break in Tunisia. It’s just three hours flying time from London, but you are plunged deep into a very foreign and exotic world. A world of great comfort if you get the right hotel – and certainly a world of colourful and fascinating mystery. A Taste of Tunisia: Culinary Classics to Look For To truly understand the country, you have to eat your way through the markets. Tunisian cuisine is distinct from its North African neighbours—it is generally hotter, relying heavily on a fiery pepper paste, and beautifully balances fresh Mediterranean seafood with deep, earthy desert spices. Here are the staple dishes you must try: Couscous: The undisputed national dish. Unlike Moroccan versions, Tunisian couscous is almost always served stained a deep orange-red from a spicy tomato-and-chilli broth. It is traditionally topped with a mountain of slow-cooked lamb, chicken, or fresh coastal fish, alongside huge chunks of pumpkin and potatoes. Lablabi: A thick, deeply comforting chickpea soup that is pure street-food fuel. It is poured over bowls of torn, stale crusty bread and heavily seasoned with garlic, cumin, olive oil, and raw harissa. It is frequently finished with a soft-boiled egg and flaked tuna mixed in at the table. Brik: A ubiquitous, crispy pastry obsession. A razor-thin sheet of malsouka dough is folded into a triangle around a filling of mashed potato, tuna, capers, parsley, and a single raw egg. It is deep-fried for a matter of seconds so the pastry becomes shatteringly crisp while the egg yolk inside stays warm and perfectly runny. Koucha (Lamb in Clay): As experienced on this trip, this is a dramatic, slow-cooked masterpiece. Seasoned with rosemary, turmeric, cayenne, and cinnamon, the lamb is sealed tight inside a clay jar or pot (koucha) and baked for hours. The meat becomes so incredibly tender it falls away at the touch of a fork. Ojja (Tunisian Shakshuka): A rich, bubbling skillet of spicy tomato, garlic, and green pepper sauce, heavily spiked with harissa. Eggs are gently cracked into the sauce to poach, and the dish is often elevated with chunks of merguez (a spicy, heavily spiced lamb sausage). Mechouia Salad: A staple starter found on almost every table. Tomatoes, onions, sweet peppers, and fiery hot peppers are grilled or charred over open coals until smoky, then peeled, finely chopped, and heavily dressed in olive oil and lemon. It is always served topped with hard-boiled eggs and chunks of tuna. Harissa: The culinary heartbeat of the nation. Far more than just a condiment, this vibrant red paste made from smoked red clay chilis, garlic, caraway, coriander, and olive oil is cooked into the base of almost every sauce, stew, and soup across the country. Frequently Asked Questions What is the difference between a medina and a souk? In North Africa, a "medina" refers to the historic, walled old-town section of a city, typically characterised by narrow, winding alleys. A "souk" is the marketplace or bazaar found within the medina, often divided by trade, such as spices, leather, or textiles. Is haggling expected in the markets of Tunisia? Yes, haggling is an expected and deeply cultural part of the shopping experience in traditional Tunisian souks. Prices are rarely fixed, and a friendly, respectful negotiation is considered part of the daily transaction. What is traditional Tunisian cuisine like? Tunisian food features a rich blend of Mediterranean and North African influences. Key dishes include slow-cooked stews cooked in sealed clay pots, fresh Mediterranean seafood, vibrant mezze-style salads featuring egg and fish, and the frequent use of aromatic spices like cinnamon and coriander. What is a Ghassoul treatment in a Tunisian spa? A Ghassoul (or rhassoul) treatment is a traditional Moroccan and Tunisian wellness ritual where the body is coated in a nutrient-rich, therapeutic mineral clay. The treatment takes place in a warm steam environment to detoxify and smooth the skin before being washed clean.

The South Devon coast is delightful dawdling country, which is why I was delighted to find myself staying down in the South Hams and fortunate to be staying at the award-winning Thurlestone Hotel, a magnificent hostelry I’ve visited before. I recall writing a news story about the hotel not long ago after the owners had spent over £1 million upgrading the restaurant. The hotel’s old restaurant was given a complete transformation with a new identity and new menus that feature produce sourced almost exclusively from within the county. Set across two levels and with floor-to-ceiling windows that make the most of the coastal views, the restaurant was been redesigned by London-based Fabled Studio, whose work can be seen in many of the capital’s best dining rooms including Dinner by Heston Blumenthal and Restaurant Gordon Ramsay. IF YOU ENJOY THIS POST CHECK OUT OTHER DEVON ARTICLES HERE An elegant, art deco style runs throughout, with marble flooring, mirrors and lighting echoing the 1920s and 30s, alongside discreet naval detailing that gives a nod to the region’s maritime history. View from the Thurlestone Hotel The menu highlights a selection of dishes prepared using seasonal produce, and the restaurant showcases such delights as home smoked salmon, River Yealm oysters, hand-dived Start Bay scallops and Aune Valley beef. Outdoors at Thurlestone you get plenty in the way of beach and bay. You even get the famous Thurle Stone thrown in for good measure and on a windy day you can hear the thing moan like the crying of long lost Sirens. They say you can even hear it in far-away Kingsbridge, but no one has ever been able to verify this for me. Exploring Thurlestone & The Moaning Rock Walk Overview Start/Finish Point Central Thurlestone / Thurlestone Beach parking Distance Approx. 5 miles (8 km) circular Difficulty Moderate (well-laid coastal paths and gentle inland fields) Highlights The iconic Thurle Stone, historic Thurlestone Church, Hope Cove, views of Burgh Island Local Pitstops The Thurlestone Hotel, Hope Cove pubs The ‘Thurl’ bit of the name apparently means pierced or drilled, and it is the giant hole through the middle of the rock which moans when the wind is blasting through it. There are plenty of walks around the village - I took a wander from Thurlestone to Hope Cove and back via inland paths A Church Polluted by Blood Central Thurlestone is old and grand. The marvellous church at the top of the hill acts as a sort of antidote for the architectural failings to be seen elsewhere. Not only is it a handsome affair, but its ancient annals contain many an engaging tale of yore. For instance, in 1328 the Bishop of Exeter commissioned the Archdeacon of Totnes to reconcile the church which had been "polluted by the spilling of blood therein." Whose blood? What terrible thing had occurred within these gaunt and splendid walls? I am afraid I do not know; what I can tell you is - the Abbot of Buckfast arrived to do the heavenly deed only to find that the churlish folk of Thurlestone wouldn't pay his fees. The answer? The Bishop of Exeter threatened to ex-communicate the whole lot of them unless the money was paid - which, of course, it duly was. Following the South West Coast Path From the centre of the village I made my way south down the hill to find the corner of the golf course and so the south west coast path. It’s an odd bit of the littoral, quite unlike any other in the West Country. The low hinterland speaks of rolling downs and the beaches themselves have a scruffy look more reminiscent of somewhere in Essex near the Thames Estuary. There are pilings to help keep the stunted cliff intact - although there are the occasional rockfalls along here as was witnessed recently. Being west-facing the strand is forever covered in seaweed and other detritus chucked up by wind and tide. The Hitchcockian Legend of Ms. Burke I got the feeling Alfred Hitchcock would like this place – even in bright afternoon sunlight it has an eerie feel. Maybe that’s something to do with a lady called Burke. In the year 1772 she was a passenger on the good ship Chantiloupe which was in trouble just off this bit of coast. Seeing the beach so near, she thought there may be some means of escape and quickly donned all her finest jewellery so that she’d have some ‘readies’ that would keep her in the style to which she was undoubtedly accustomed. Alas for Ms Burke, things were not destined to fall her way. Indeed, her forward planning was to prove her undoing. The story goes that she made the beach in one piece but then was then set upon by three local villains who helped themselves to the rich pickings adorning her frail limbs. It probably didn’t take much to kill Ms Burke, but in doing so they seem to have unleashed some demon that was bent upon her revenge. According to a local report ‘all three came to awful and untimely deaths’. How true any of this is, no one can say, but it is believed that the celebrated Edmund Burke came to the area to investigate the demise of some of his relatives. He went away without a fig of evidence. Spooky stuff – and maybe it was this sorry tale that cast me into my Hitchcockian state of mind. But this soon ebbed as I climbed the wide, well-laid path that crosses the downs between Thurlestone beach and Hope Cove. You get fantastic views up here, of Bigbury Bay which sweeps around past Burgh Island. You also get skylarks and an airy feel which puts you in mind of the music of Vaughn Williams. Descending into Hope Cove & Returning Inland Hitchcockian darkness defied, I descended into the busy little sunlit resort of Hope Cove where I enjoyed a drink before continuing my way up the track inland to North Bolberry. From here another right of way took me north through the village of Galmpton and north again to South Huish. Yet more footpaths now took me uphill to pass Horswell House, where it was a quick left, then a right, down the path into the valley past the sewerage works and then up and over past Whitlocksworthy to eventually regain the villa-dom that is Thurlestone. All the while I was able to peer over my left shoulder to witness the west-facing loveliness of the sun dipping over the great maritime expanses of the South Hams coast. Frequently Asked Questions Where does the name Thurlestone come from? The name comes from the Old English word "thurl," meaning pierced or drilled. It refers to the massive, naturally arched rock formation just off the coast which features a giant hole cut through by the sea. Can you walk from Thurlestone to Hope Cove on the Coast Path? Yes, a wide, well-laid section of the South West Coast Path connects Thurlestone Beach directly to Hope Cove. It offers spectacular, elevated views across Bigbury Bay and toward Burgh Island. How long is the circular walk from Thurlestone to Hope Cove? The complete circular route—heading out along the coastal path to Hope Cove and returning inland via the villages of Galmpton and South Huish—is approximately 5 miles long and takes around 2 to 2.5 hours to complete. Is the Thurlestone beach walk family-friendly? The coastal path section between Thurlestone and Hope Cove is relatively wide and easy to navigate, making it excellent for families, though there are occasional stunted cliff edges and rockfalls to be mindful of.

If the dry and rocky surface of the moon was near a blue and heaving sea, it would look remarkable. That’s what I was thinking while on an adventurous mountain bike ride down the north east coast of Gozo along a rocky, sandy, bit of littoral that really did look like the backdrop for a science fiction movie. Circular bare hills, made of nothing but terracotta bedrock, appeared almost like alien spaceships worn old through eons of time, just waiting for some long lost signal to take off. Strange grid-like areas hewn into the soft sandstone rock looked as if they’d been etched by the antediluvian folk now buried in the fossilised flying saucers. Mysterious doors set directly into blank cliffs seemed to promise all manner of dark secrets locked within. Only the sea danced and sparkled with the buoyant boundless life of here and now. It roared and boomed with spume and spray, looking impossibly deep and blue in a way which only the Mediterranean can when it is wed to the white sandstones and limestones of a sunlit coast. Everything along that coast was stark and surprising. Indeed, most things on Gozo - Malta’s little sister - are clear-cut, graphic and somehow abrupt. The landscapes of these twin-isles (and their even smaller sister, Comino) are not soft and kindly - they are as far from our sylvan acres as it is to imagine - but they do have a unique charm of their own. Yes, there are less than lovely parts of Malta - because whoever guards the rule-book of urban planning on that rocky island seems to have either lost it or chucked it away. The hand of man has been heavily laid upon its few and limited acres. However, some unspoiled corners have survived - and Gozo is a lot more rural - which means it is possible to visit these remarkable islands and enjoy some of their USP. As it turns out, Gozo and Malta have plenty when it comes to Unique Selling Proposition - if you are prepared to go out and look for it. Which is exactly what I was doing on a special trip designed to show the two islands at their natural best. During the four days I was there I walked, mountain-biked, kayaked, cycled and hiked again. The Maltese archipelago lies more-or-less at the centre of the Mediterranean, about 60 miles south of Sicily and around 80 miles north of Africa. The three islands have a total population of 400,000 inhabitants spread over an area of 122 square miles (Comino has just four permanent residents) and combined the isles have 155 miles of coast. The Citadel of Victoria: Stepping into Gozo's Medieval Heart The central location gives a clue as to its long and colourful history - the place has been invaded or annexed by just about everyone from the Phoenicians to the Normans. And of course the British used it as a sea-bound fortress and unsinkable aircraft carrier. It’s strange how we can feel possessive about far away places which have no real meaning to us save for historic links and associations - Malta is most definitely one of those locations. It has been independent since 1964 and yet Malta in particular (less so Gozo) seems 100 per cent haunted by the fact that we Brits ruled its tiny roost for over 160 years. Every sign, instruction, menu or whatever is in English and every Maltese person speaks our language - as well as their own Arabic-related tongue. But, as I say, it was to discern the archipelago’s own USP that I flew south with Air Malta - only to be immediately transferred to Gozo where I stayed in the luxurious five star Kempinski Hotel San Lawrenz. Some five star hotels are that by label, but not by nature - this one deserves every facet of every star. The name Gozo means ‘joy’ and was applied by the Aragonese when the archipelago became one of their overseas possessions in 1282. But Gozo is perhaps more famous for being home of the beautiful Calypso, as mentioned in Homer’s Odyssey. It’s greener, more rural and agricultural - and quite a bit smaller than Malta - and life definitely moves at a more leisurely pace. It was evening by the time I arrived, so we repaired immediately to the Zeffiro Restaurant on the waterfront at Xlendi, which is a small fishing village located deep in the valley of what can only be described as a rocky fjord. And this brings me to the subject of Maltese food and service. Both are first class - in fact, I’d go as far as to say that the general level of service in Maltese hotels and restaurants is on a par with anything you’ll find anywhere else in the Mediterranean. It is surpassed by only one thing - and that is the food. With Italian, French, British, North African, Spanish and Greek influences, the cuisine was always going to be good - and of this I was immediately convinced having consumed just one memorable seafood dinner at the waterside Zeffiro. So much for fine dining in the evening - but this, for example, is a classic Maltese lunch... The islands are renown for their excellent bread and for lunch sometimes the locals will hollow out loaf which is then stuffed with a mixture of its own breadcrumbs, tomatoes, olives, capers, onions and beans. Another Gozo speciality is a tomato paste that you can spread on the ever-present bread - and it defies my sense of logic and understanding that they don’t market this stuff around the planet. It is, simply, the best tomato product in the world. I could write an entire article about Maltese food, but instead I want to reflect on some of the outdoor adventures I enjoyed touring around the wilder bits of the islands. On my first full day we travelled to one of Gozo’s hilltop villages, Gharb, to begin a two hour mountain bike ride along the lunar coastline, ending at Xwejni Bay. I mentioned strange grid-like areas hewn into the soft sandstone rock - they are ancient salt-pans, still used by one or two locals for harvesting sea salt. I bought several packs for a matter of pence - and it is superb stuff. After a lunch consisting mainly of a Maltese version of tapas at the harbour-side Kartell Restaurant in Marsalforn, we spent the afternoon tootling around Gozo on quad-bikes - which was great fun, if not slightly alarming at times when confronted with near vertical tracks leading down into green and hidden valleys. The next day we took a boat out to Comino en-route back to mainland Malta. The island is situated in the middle of the channel that separates the two larger neighbours and is a haven for those who love water sports. The Blue Lagoon, with its clear green-blue water, is one of the most spectacular sights in the archipelago. It is so incredibly blue that you wonder if God has being playing with the colour adjustment on his ethereal TV. We explored the cave-riddled coast of Comino in a powerful launch and admired the seasonal hotel that was about to open, saw one of the three residents - and then roared off to the northern tip of Malta in time for a walk before lunch. The hike, around a rocky peninsula between Cirkewwa and Ghadira Bay, lasted an hour and a half and we were treated to wonderful maritime views every step of the way. We also noticed lots of little stone buildings, which turned out to be a rather sorry part of traditional Maltese life... It seems that the islanders have a predilection for killing or capturing wild birds of every size and shape - and these stone huts belong to individuals who either shoot or net the hapless incomers migrating between Africa and Europe. We learned this at our next port of call, which was a small wetland managed by an estimable charity called Bird Life Malta. It is run by a small and extremely determined bunch of ornithologists whose mission it is to protect their weary and much-put-upon feathered friends (find out more at www.birdlifemalta.org - they need all the help they can get) Fact File For further information on Malta go to http://www.visitmalta.comMartin flew with Air Malta which operates a year-round scheduled service of 26 flights per week from Heathrow, Gatwick and Manchester. Air Malta also operates regional summer charter flights from Bristol, Exeter and Cardiff. For more information visit airmalta.com” Frequently Asked Questions About Visiting Gozo How do you get to Gozo from mainland Malta? Getting to Gozo is incredibly simple and highly scenic. Frequent passenger and car ferries run 24 hours a day from Cirkewwa at the northern tip of Malta, arriving at Mġarr Harbour in Gozo in approximately 25 minutes. Additionally, a fast passenger-only ferry operates directly from the Grand Harbour in Valletta, taking around 45 minutes. What are the oldest temples in Gozo? Gozo is home to the extraordinary Ġgantija Temple complex, located in Xagħra. Dating back to roughly 3600 to 3200 BC, these monumental limestone structures are older than both Stonehenge and the Egyptian Pyramids. They are recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage site and provide fascinating insight into the island's advanced prehistoric civilization. What is traditional food like in Gozo? Gozo boasts a magnificent, rustic culinary heritage that relies heavily on local agriculture and the sea. Signature delicacies include ġbejniet (small, traditional round cheeses made from sheep's milk), fresh Gozo honey, sun-dried tomatoes, and ftira—a unique, traditional stone-baked Gozitan flatbread often topped with fresh potatoes, capers, anchovies, and onions.

Winter Sun in Gran Canaria: Escaping January in the Canary Islands January can be a grim cold time in the northern hemisphere. I, for one, like heading south if I can, come the end of the month when winter seems to have gone on just too long. Gran Canaria is a place that can be high on the list for winter destinations. Green Gran Canaria: Mountains, Flowers and Hidden Valleys Think green. Think boundless mountainsides covered in flowers. Think running water tinkling through pretty villages perched on the sides of dramatic gorges. Think almond blossom gleaming all white and lovely in secret coombes two thousand feet above the sea. And, higher still, conjure an image the cool green scented zone of coniferous cloud forests wafting in the warm breeze. While the capital city offers a spectacular winter break, the rest of the island deserves exploration. You can follow my full route through the mountains and coastal fishing villages in my Grand Tour of Gran Canaria Staying in Las Palmas: An Unlikely Base on Gran Canaria Having said all that I stayed in the in somewhat unlikely location of the capital city, Las Palmas. A great many northern Europeans will probably not have heard of this place but, with a population of nearly 400,000, it’s one of the 10 biggest cities in all of Spain. Or to put it another way, it is the largest European Community city outside Europe. Located just over 90 miles off the Saharan coast and more than 830 from the Iberian peninsula, it does at times feel more African or South American than European. Las Palmas de Gran Canaria Unlike its neighbouring mountain range, you could in no way describe Las Palmas as beautiful or even handsome – it’s a sprawling community built across a great isthmus between volcanic cliffs and what would otherwise be a small island. However, I loved the place. It has a pounding vibrancy that I’ve not seen in other European cities for some while – and the South American link is relevant. In 1492 Christopher Columbus anchored here and spent time on the island while on his first trip to the Americas. He also stopped on his way back, and the city has a museum dedicated to him in its charming old Vegueta quarter. Vegueta, Columbus and the Historic Heart of Las Palmas Aside from teeming streets lined with the usual tapas bars and restaurants this city is seems more in tune with the sea than most. That’s not really surprising as one side of the downtown area plays host to a large port, while the other is dominated by an even larger beach. Life on Las Canteras Beach: Evenings by the Atlantic It’s to this beach that the entire population seems to decant in the evenings and at weekends. The tower blocks spill their human content and what does that spillage do? It surfs the giant waves. It promenades along the seafront. It preens, looks, admires, laughs, talks, preens again, and eats. Beyond the City: Hiking and Landscapes of Gran Canaria As I say, I loved it - but I loved getting out of the city just as much and enjoyed some of the finest hiking routes on the island. They call Gran Canaria the “miniature continent” because of its amazing array of different climates and landscapes. The round, dart-board of an isle is built around a massive volcano system which rises, at Pico de Las Nieves, to an impressive 6,390 feet. The Capital’s New Pulse: Why Las Palmas is More Relevant Than Ever If you return to Las Palmas today, you will find that the "pounding vibrancy" has only intensified. It is no longer just a haven for sun-starved northern Europeans; it has transformed into a global hub. By the start of 2025, the city’s population continues to hover around the 380,000 mark, maintaining its status as Spain’s ninth-largest city and a critical bridge between three continents. But there is a new "spillage" onto the streets. Alongside the local surfers and the evening promenaders, you will now find a burgeoning tribe of "digital nomads." Drawn by the 17.7 million annual visitors to the Canary Islands in 2024, many have decided to swap their grey offices for the co-working spaces that now line the streets behind Las Canteras. In fact, Las Palmas has recently been ranked as one of the top remote-work destinations in the world, proving that its unique blend of African proximity and European infrastructure is a winning formula for the modern age. The beach I mentioned—that vast, golden crescent of Las Canteras—remains the city’s crown jewel. In 2025, it once again secured its Blue Flag status, an international hallmark of water quality and environmental management that it has held for decades. What makes it truly special is La Barra, the natural volcanic reef that acts as a giant breakwater. It creates a tranquil lagoon where, even in the depths of January, you can snorkel amongst schools of ornate wrasse and damselfish while the giant Atlantic rollers crash harmlessly just a few hundred yards out at sea. It is this duality—the wild ocean and the protected pool—that sums up the city’s character. Escaping the city is easier than ever. Gran Canaria has doubled down on its commitment to the environment, with nearly 43% of the island’s territory now protected as a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. If you head for the heights of Pico de las Nieves (reaching that impressive 6,390 feet), you aren't just looking at a view; you are witnessing a sophisticated ecological recovery. The "cloud forests" I spoke of are part of a massive reforestation project aimed at capturing the moisture from the trade winds—locally known as the Alisios. Whether you are seeking the 1492 history of the Vegueta quarter or the high-altitude silence of the almond groves, Las Palmas remains the perfect, "unlikely" base. It is a city that doesn't just sit by the sea; it lives and breathes with it.

The world is full of geographic misconceptions, which is partly what makes travelling such fun. For example, mention the Canary Isles and most people will imagine concrete vacation resorts located on arid coasts loomed over by barren volcanic mountains. And that is an accurate picture in some places, like the busy southern half of Gran Canaria – but go to the northern part of that huge and impressive island and you will come across a very different landscape indeed. Think green. Think boundless mountainsides covered in flowers. Think running water tinkling through pretty villages perched on the sides of dramatic gorges. Think almond blossom gleaming all white and lovely in secret coombes two thousand feet above the sea. And, higher still, conjure an image the cool green scented zone of coniferous cloud forests wafting in the warm breeze. In the depths of a northern hemisphere winter you could claim that the Canaries offer the very best country-walking to be found on the planet, without crossing the equator. Go to the tropics and things get too hot – go north and you can freeze. In winter the islands have what has been described by top meteorologists as the best climate on Earth. A week striding about the high sierras of Gran Canaria is just about the best tonic for the winter’s-gone-on-too-long blues I can imagine. They call it a “miniature continent” because of its amazing array of different climates and landscapes. The round, dart-board of an isle is built around a massive volcano system which rises, at Pico de Las Nieves, to an impressive 6,390 feet. If you are planning to spend time exploring the vibrant historic quarters of the capital city itself, make sure to read my dedicated guide on why Las Palmas is the ultimate January escape. Just about half the land area, 667 square kilometres, falls under the Canary Islands Network for Naturally Protected Areas. In total Gran Canaria has 33 protected areas including a couple of large national parks. The Charm of Tejeda and Gran Canaria's Hidden Villages It was into this little lot that I went marching with a group from Ramble Worldwide (RWH). By using either chartered minibus or the excellent public transport system, our guide took us up, up and away into the great hinterland of northern Gran Canaria where the walking is altogether more green and picturesque than you find in the south. On day one the bus took us all the way up to Cruz de Tejeda where a carved stone cross on a mountain pass marks the 5180 foot contour. Not surprisingly, the vantage points around this altitudinous place offer magnificent views. And the area is surrounded by marked walks, some new, most of them caminos reales (royal paths) - ancient tracks built by the farmers of old. Climbing Into the Clouds: The Volcanic Interior You will see the remains of their terraced fields and orchards nestling on steep slopes far below, but it’s a shame to report that many of these have fallen into neglect. Our walk took us over a nearby ridge to the north and then down long and lovely slopes to the charming town of Teror. Almost the entire route is a descent and after some 3000 feet you begin to feel certain parts of your lower body you may not have noticed for years. Not that anyone was complaining – this was a walk of great beauty, passing through peaceful pine forests and then, beyond the village of Lanzarote, deciduous woodlands. Teror was a delightful place in which enjoy a cold beer. The small town is full of colonial-style architecture which surrounds the Basilica de Nuestra Señora del Pino, dedicated to Gran Canaria’s patron saint. In 1481 some shepherds saw a vision of the Virgin Mary sitting hereabouts atop a pine tree - since then Nuestra Señora del Pino (Our Lady of the Pines) has been the great religious icon of Gran Canaria. Our second walk was the big one of the week – a fairly arduous 12-mile ascent and descent across a high pass that took us from Barranco de Guayadeque to Tenteniguada. It began in one of the island’s most magnificent valleys – a deep ravine that boasts all manner of cacti, agaves, palms, pines and almond trees. It was also once home to the early humans who first settled on the island and is the setting for various cave villages and inaccessible cave burial sites. We started the walk at Tagoror where there’s a famous cave restaurant, as well as several troglodyte homes which are still inhabited. From here on up, the gorge’s great cliffs began to close in. Eventually we passed a couple of small, unbelievably remote, hamlets and then it was on upwards again into the wilderness. There is something mildly disappointing about coming across a road after labouring for so long up a mountain, but this was mollified at the Calle de Telde Los Pechos by the fact that the high ridge boasts its own dramatic volcanic basin. We picnicked near this in the cool shade of the pines, before beginning the long and picturesque descent to the little town of Tenteniguada. Our third walk took us up to the Fontanales area of the island, probably the most luxuriant and verdant zone in the whole Canarian archipelago thanks – as the name suggests – to the many springs which pour forth here. This was another down, down, route – eight miles all the way from the highland village of San Bartolome de Fontenales to the town of Firgis, which is famous for its mineral water, drawn from a spring in Barranco de las Madres. It’s one of the gorges we crossed in a steep descent and ascent – and its depths were as silent and peaceful as a tomb. You could not possibly imagine that you were on the same isle as all those British tourists just 20 miles to the south. Ruined cottages punctuated the way and the whole place was like a zone time had forgotten – thankfully, though, most of the footpaths were passable, even if the local farmers have long since given up using them. Our fourth walk was perhaps the most strange. It took us down into the depths of the Caldera de Bandama – a massive and perfectly formed volcanic crater, 3281 feet in diameter and 656 feet deep. We took the steep path down into this circular world – walking through palm, orange, fig and eucalyptus trees on the way. The floor of the crater showed signs of having once been extensively farmed and old buildings in various states of disrepair still poke out among the groves. Surprisingly, one was still occupied – though how it’s ancient resident gets in and out of the vast inaccessible bowl for a pint of milk, none of us could imagine. Having done the circular tour inside the volcano, we climbed back to walk around the dramatic - and at times scary - ridge surrounding it. In places this path shrinks so that it’s not much wider than a tabletop – with a steep drop of at least 600 feet on either side. Perhaps most strange of all was that the end of this walk took us through a beautifully manicured golf course. The Real Club de Golf de Las Palmas is the oldest golf club in all of Spain, having been founded at the end of the 19th century by members of an influential English colony. Coastal Gaps and Traditional Fishing Ports To round off our walking tour of Gran Canaria we did a short steep five miler on the dramatic north western edge of the isle. It took us up a mountainside above the pleasant little town of Agaete then down across a great shoulder of rock to Puerto de las Nieves, which acts as both a ferry terminal and fishing village for this remote part of the coast. The port has a long history and is something of an excursion venue for islanders. On Sunday lunchtimes its many fish restaurants are packed to the gunnels – which suited me, as I elected to laze away the afternoon enjoying excellent Spanish seafood and soaking up the busy atmosphere rather than traipse along a rather bleak bit of coast. According to a study carried out by climatologist Thomas Whitmore of the USA’s Syracuse University, northern Gran Canaria enjoys "the best climate in the world". I wouldn’t disagree - but would add that it enjoys a great more besides. Like the excellent walking through truly fabulous scenery. Frequently Asked Questions About Touring Gran Canaria Insert H3: Is it easy to drive around Gran Canaria? Driving in Gran Canaria is highly scenic but requires careful attention. The main coastal motorway (GC-1) is modern, fast, and incredibly straightforward. However, heading into the mountainous interior requires navigating narrow, twisting roads with tight hairpin bends and steep drops. The roads are exceptionally well-maintained and asphalted, making a hire car the absolute best way to see the authentic side of the island. Insert H3: What is the most beautiful mountain village in Gran Canaria? Tejeda is widely regarded as one of the most beautiful villages in both Gran Canaria and the wider Canary Islands. Nestled in a massive volcanic crater over 1,000 metres above sea level, it features immaculate, traditional whitewashed houses, spectacular views of the Roque Nublo monolith, and a rich culinary heritage centered around locally grown almonds. Insert H3: Why is Gran Canaria called a miniature continent? Gran Canaria earns the title of a "miniature continent" due to its incredibly diverse microclimates and landscapes packed into a single circular island. Within an hour's drive, you can transition from the arid, golden sand dunes of Maspalomas in the south to lush, green pine forests in the mist-shrouded central mountains, and onward to the rugged, dramatic sea cliffs of the wild western coast.

Another rainy January day, another memory of a pleasant sunlit coastal town some place hot. Or warm, at least. This time we were talking about Menorca’s old capital, the delightful port of Ciutadella, situated on the island’s western coast facing Majorca, whose mountains are plain to see from the mouth of the fjord-like harbour. In fact you catch a ferry over to Alcudia in Mallorca if the mood takes you. But why leave Ciutadella? Strolling around the myriad streets which rise from the inland end of the busy harbour is a treat, thanks partly to the excellent tapas we enjoyed in bars surrounding the ancient working market in the heart of this historic town. We found some particularly good little places in and around the market. The small square with its arcades has a central area where fresh fish is sold and this is surrounded by small stands under attractive old arcades. Tapas and the Local "Tardeo" Nowhere is this slow, sustainable philosophy more delicious than at the vibrant Mercat Municipal on Plaça de la Llibertat. Gathering under the shade of historic stone arcades, the local tapas bars serve up a rapid, incredibly fresh masterclass in island gastronomy using catches brought straight from the fishing boats that morning. Here, the menu speaks entirely in the Menorcan vernacular: salty slices of artisan Mahón cheese, plates of fresh red mullet, and rich sobrassada sausage drizzled with wild island honey. If you visit during the quieter months, you can immerse yourself in the authentic local tradition of the Tardeo—a lively social custom where locals turn the late afternoon into a prolonged, joyful ritual of sharing drinks, storytelling, and exceptional market-stamped tapas. It was the Arabs who introduced a who new cuisine to the island many centuries ago with ingredients such as rice, almonds, oranges and lemons, and spices like saffron. In addition, Menorca, has now been established as a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, partly because it boasts some of the best produce of the Balearics which makes the cuisine varied and utterly unique. The Catalan Gothic Centrepiece At the spiritual and architectural heart of the old town stands the Cathedral of Santa Maria de Ciutadella, an awe-inspiring 14th-century temple built from the island's signature golden marés sandstone. The Cathedral of Santa Maria de Ciutadella, Commissioned by King Alfonso III following the Catalan conquest, this striking landmark was constructed directly over the foundations of Medina Minurka's main Moorish mosque—cleverly repurposing the ancient minaret into the base of the current church bell tower. Though it suffered severe damage during the tragic Ottoman siege of 1558, its massive single-nave vault still rises beautifully over 22 metres high, filling with an ethereal, warm glow whenever the afternoon Mediterranean sun streams through its grand central rose window. Ciutadella was founded by the Carthaginians, and became the seat of a bishop in the 4th century. After being governed by the Moors for several centuries, Ciutadella was recaptured during the “reconquista” by men serving Alfonso III and became part of the Crown of Aragon. During the Middle Ages, Ciutadella became an important central Mediterranean trading port. In 1558, a powerful Turkish Armada of 140 ships and 15,000 soldiers, put the town under siege for eight days entered and decimated the place. The town was defended by only a few hundred men. All of Ciutadella's 3,099 inhabitants who survived the siege were taken as slaves together with other inhabitants of surrounding villages. In total, 3,452 residents were sold into slavery in the slave markets of Istanbul. The Gastronomic Tapestry & The Biosphere The Tapas Trails of the Mercat MunicipalThe real pulse of local life can be felt at the Mercat Municipal (the central market) on Plaça de la Llibertat. Here, under the shade of centuries-old stone arcades, the vibrant market stalls present a daily masterclass in island gastronomy. It is a sensory feast of bright citrus fruit, local cured meats, and stalls piled high with shimmering local catches like red mullet and Mediterranean prawns. Grab a stool at one of the tiny, bustling tapas bars tucked inside the arcades to order Caldereta de Langosta (the island's iconic spiny lobster stew) or classic tapas showcasing traditional Menorcan sausage (sobrassada) drizzled with local honey. Menorca's Sustainable SoulThis exceptional culinary variety is no accident. The entire island of Menorca is designated as a protected UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, a title it has held for decades. This environmental shield strictly regulates development, ensuring that traditional farming, pristine coastlines, and ancient food systems remain entirely unmarred by mass tourism. The result is a hyper-local, completely unique Balearic food culture where the ingredients on your plate have travelled mere miles from a sustainable field or a local fishing boat. The Blueprint for Slow Travel This enduring preservation of history perfectly reflects Menorca's broader identity as a world-leading sanctuary for "slow travel". Decades ago, the entire island secured a protective mantle as a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, a crucial designation that strictly curtails aggressive commercial development and massive hotel complexes. Because the local authorities choose conservation over mass tourism, the island moves at a wonderfully unhurried, human pace. It is a place where ancient stone paths are kept completely intact, traditional farming methods are actively shielded, and travellers are gently encouraged to slow down, explore on foot, and savour the quiet detail of a deeply authentic community Frequently Asked Questions 1. Where is Ciutadella located and how do you get there? Ciutadella is situated on the far western coast of Menorca, directly facing the neighboring island of Mallorca. You can easily reach it by car or local bus from the airport in Mahón, or take a scenic vehicle ferry directly across the channel from Alcúdia in Mallorca. 2. What is the difference between Ciutadella and Mahón? While Mahón is Menorca's modern administrative capital and features one of the world's largest natural harbors, Ciutadella is the historic, aristocratic, and religious heart of the island. Ciutadella is characterized by its narrow, fjord-like port, its golden sandstone palaces, and its deep Moorish and medieval roots. 3. What historic events shaped the town of Ciutadella? Founded by the Carthaginians, the town was heavily influenced by centuries of Moorish rule before being reclaimed during the Reconquista by King Alfonso III. Its most tragic historical milestone occurred in 1558, when a massive Turkish Armada decimated the heavily outnumbered town, leading to the entire surviving population of over 3,400 residents being captured and sold into slavery in Istanbul. 4. What should I try at the central market in Ciutadella? The working fish market is famous for its exceptionally fresh seafood tapas. Be sure to sample traditional Balearic dishes featuring saffron, almonds, or citrus, alongside the island's famous artisan Mahón-Menorca cheese—a semi-hard, slightly salty cheese completely unique to the island's sea-wind pastures.

Sampling fine ciders in the West Country There is a quiet but profound revolution happening in the world of artisan drink production. For generations, anyone looking to celebrate a special occasion or elevate a fine meal would automatically reach for a bottle of sparkling wine or Champagne. But today, a sophisticated new wave of producers is challenging that monopoly. By applying the rigorous, traditional méthode champenoise to the humble apple, they are creating premium, bottle-fermented fine ciders that possess all the complexity, elegance, and celebratory "pop" of a world-class sparkling wine. Nothing can be more magical than letting a genie out of a bottle. It’s an odd phrase that does of course have a flip-side - you can never get the genie to go back into the bottle - but even taking that into consideration, the idea of a bottled genie seems to wholly suit what is arguably the most exciting revolution going on in the world of UK food and drink today… Polly Hilton and husband Matt run Find and Foster - a small bottle-fermented cider company I refer to the new bottle-fermented ciders which are beginning to appear here and there across the rural map. The genie analogy is fitting because something truly magical does happen when you use certain clever, centuries-old, techniques to turn apple juice into an alcoholic drink inside a bottle. Mastering the Traditional Champagne Method in the Orchard Do it right and what you get is a product that is similar to good champagne. The liquid will be clear and sparkling and astonishingly refreshing. The bubbles hitting your tongue will be small and smooth, without any of the harshness you get with a drink that has been artificially carbonated. IF YOU'RE ENJOYING THIS POST, CHECK OUT OUR CIDER PAGE HERE And the flavour… Well, once again, if the process has been completed in just the right way the complexities of flavour you’ll experience from a bottle fermented cider will leave you delighted and fascinated in exactly the same way as they would if you’d sipped a Grande Marque champagne costing £400 a bottle. If you think that is an exaggeration then I can report that deep in the Blackdown Hills this week I sampled a food and drink pairing which was the probably the finest marriage of solid and liquid ever to pass my lips. Alex Hill, one of the UK’s leading experts on bottle-fermented cider, had poured a glass of his Bollhayes 2003 and also cut a slice of the best Iberico ham money can buy. It was as if someone had taken the classic combo of Sunday roast pork and apple sauce, and distilled them down to create two little phials containing essences of the real thing that were somehow 500 times more concentrated and alive and exciting. The needle on the patent wowometer, which sits deep within the pleasure cortex of my brain, went straight into the red. It was the kind of fabulous combination that I could imagine a multi-millionaire paying ludicrous amounts of money for in a top Michelin restaurant. This was epicurean pleasure raised to its very highest setting. All I can do is quote from Alex’s tasting notes which describe the 2003 Bollhayes thus: “Deep amber with fine bubbles. Aroma: Complex, deep, rich, with a hint of smoky vanilla, plum and burnt sugar. Flavour: Richly bitter, with notes of juniper and burnt sugar.” Two mentions of sugar there, but one of the magical things about this particular kind of genie in a bottle is that there is either no added sugar, or just a tiny amount. And no other kind of artificial ingredient, I have to add, save in this case maybe a smidgen of champagne yeast. What you are getting with a bottle-fermented cider is apple juice that has been left to work a magic of its own. A magic that elevates it from everyday cider in the same way as a bottle of Krug is placed far above a wine-box of cheap supermarket plonk. But when I say “work a magic of its own”, bottle-fermented cider does need a helping hand. Indeed, it requires a great deal of attention and care, which is why the proper stuff will never be cheap. After having lunch with Alex and sampling a couple of his Bollhayes products, cider-expert James Crowden and I drove 20 miles deeper into Devon to meet a young couple whose bottle-fermented ciders can cost more than £50 a pop in top Michelin-starred London restaurants. And why not? The champagne equivalent could cost way over ten times that in such establishments. Polly Hilton and husband Matt run Find and Foster - a small bottle-fermented cider company named after the fact that Polly started out by finding rundown orchards in the rural hinterland north of Exeter and began bringing them back to life. In a way James and I managed to visit both ends of this new cider revolution in that Alex has been in this particular game for longer than most other cider-makers in the UK (we even sampled a bottle of his truly amazing 1993 vintage) - while Polly and Matt are newcomers who happen to have already gained an impressive track record. For many years Alex owned and ran a Devon-based business called Vigo which sells and designs the kind of equipment needed by cider-makers - but long before his retirement he was drawn to the idea of a bottle-fermented version of the drink. And, as I keep saying, it’s one that works by a kind of alchemy. A two-sided alchemy, as far as I can make out.. Bottle-fermenting is a complex process. Basically you can go down one of two routes… The methode-champenoise system - as followed by Alex - or you can use an ancient process known as “keeving” - which is often, but not always, practised by Polly and Matt. Moving Past the Pint: Fine Cider on the Dining Table As we walked into Alex’s cider-shed we heard the familiar bubbling sound familiar amateur wine-makers who have air-locks on their demijohns… “The music of fermentation,” is what Alex called the sound as we gazed at the big steel vats full of rapidly fermenting apple juice. “Once it’s finished fermenting you don’t want air-contact because nearly all the spoilage organisms which can ruin cider rely on oxygen,” Alex explained. “If you can eliminate oxygen the cider has a better chance of tasting good. Traditional cider tasted pretty rough sometimes because people didn’t follow that simple rule. “This is fermenting with wild yeasts,” he continued. “This is just pure apple juice with nothing added - the yeast is in the apples, in the air, in the cider-press boards - and it’s built up here over 30 years of cider-making. So I’ve probably got my own strains of yeast now. “I still do draught cider, but my speciality is bottled cider made by the champagne method. There are more people making it now - but it is very important to distinguish this from artificially carbonated cider. This has gas in it from fermentation inside a sealed bottle - and it’s quite a complex process involved after that in getting rid of the yeast without getting rid of the gas. “We use the methode-champenoise and it requires and element of skill and some very expensive equipment,” he said before we went into the farmhouse to sample bottles that were three, 15 and 25 years old.” Keeving, on the other hand, is a natural process which involves the formation of a layer of pectin that will, given the right conditions, float to the top of the pressed apple juice. This layer - which looks a bit like a huge digestive biscuit that’s been dunked in liquid - traps nitrogen and nutrients and is eventually removed. Without the essential nutrients, any fermentation of wild yeast will slow down or stop, leaving natural sugars from the apples themselves to sweeten the remaining liquid. The keeved cider is then bottled, but it will carry on very slowly fermenting in its sealed home beneath the cork - which is why producers use the special toughened champagne style bottles that won’t explode. This secondary fermentation allows the liquid to develop its own natural sparkle. Polly told me she’d first set up the business in a bid to help save old run-down orchards after discovering that 90 percent of Devon’s traditional orchards had been lost since World War Two. “The apples in these orchards are incredible - they are local varieties, the trees are really old. There are no sprays or chemicals anywhere. “So it would have been a shame to make really standard cider - and obviously I couldn’t compete on how much I could make. So I wanted to do something unique by using the champagne and the keeving method - because some of these orchards were planted for keeving. “We use very late ripening cider varieties and you macerate the fruit and a reaction happens between the calcium in the apples and the pectin in the skin,” said Polly, referring to the cap which rises to the top of the cider. “The fermentation stops before all the sugar has turned to alcohol, so you can create a naturally sweet, naturally sparkling, cider by bottling that low nutrient cider towards the end of the fermentation.” Perfect Pairings for Premium Sparkling Ciders The Fine Cider Company in London now sells the couple’s products to top end restaurants - but you can buy it at local outlets like Dart’s Farm at Topsham - or, as is the case with both our interviewees today, from their websites. I’d definitely recommend getting some in this Christmas as a treat for your guests. That is, as I say, a very brief overview of the bottle-fermented cider making process. If you’d like to hear more about the subject, have a listen to my latest Adventures in Rural Journalism podcast which is all about bottle-fermented ciders. To buy bottle fermented ciders check out https://bollhayescider.co.uk/ Or http://www.findandfosterfineciders.com/ Frequently Asked Questions About Bottle-Fermented Fine Cider Insert H3: What is bottle-fermented or traditional method cider? Bottle-fermented cider (often labeled as "traditional method" or méthode champenoise) is a premium craft cider where the secondary fermentation takes place entirely inside the individual bottle. Rather than artificially injecting carbon dioxide, the natural sugars and yeasts create a delicate, natural effervescence, complex sediment characters, and a sophisticated depth of flavour over months or years of maturation. Insert H3: Is fine cider a good alternative to sparkling wine? Absolutely. High-quality traditional method ciders share the same vibrant acidity, fine mousse (bubbles), and complex yeast notes found in quality sparkling wines and Champagnes. Because cider apples naturally contain rich tannins, these premium ciders often offer a more structures, food-friendly dryness that pairs beautifully with fine dining. Insert H3: What food pairs best with premium sparkling cider? Premium dry sparkling ciders are incredibly versatile at the dinner table. The natural acidity and carbonation brilliantly cut through rich, fatty foods. It is a legendary pairing for traditional roasted pork dishes, charcuterie, and slow-cooked belly pork, but it also pairs exceptionally well with mature West Country cheddar, earthy mushroom dishes, and fresh seafood.

Puglia: The Authentic Heart of Italy Some places are more archetypical than others everything about them seems to represent a country or a region more than other areas within a national border - they are almost like cartoon figures whose every single inch seems to exude certain distinctive elements so that you are left in no doubt where you are… Puglia is like that when it comes to representing Italy. It is somehow even more Italian than many other regions of that already highly characteristic country. Its food could only be Italian. The way people speak and act seems amazingly Italian. The countryside down in the south-east heel is generally less dramatic, but somehow it is more Italian than Tuscany or Umbria or anywhere else in that exciting land. It gets quietly on with the frenetic business of being Italian without making too much of a show and dance about it like they perhaps do in places like Naples or Sorrento. Puglia is less touristy, more down to earth. The food is less showy, more what the hard working farming folk would eat. The wine less famous, but in some cases more delicious. The beaches less busy and crazy, but none the worse for that. The hills less steep and altitudinous, but more full of truly ancient interest. This is how the invite to the tour I joined began: “Dry stone walls, farms, ancient sheep tracks and underground olive oil presses tell ancient stories of distant peoples…” What my hosts from Discovery Puglia meant is that the south-eastern region of Italy was the first to come under the influence of the Greeks thousands of years ago. It was they who brought the concept of olive oil production to Italy - they who set up the first olive groves - and they who turned Puglia into a commercial crossroads. Exploring Northern Salento and the White Town of Ostuni The area I’m talking about specifically is a part of Puglia called Northern Salento, in the province of Brindisi. The towns you will see on a map are places like San Vito dei Normanni, San Michele Salentino, Carovigno, Ceglie, Villa Castelli, Ostuni and Fasano. Throughout my short stay I stayed near Ostuni, perhaps the most famous of all the white towns, built on a hill above the Adriatic coastal plain. In fact, the masseria (an old farm converted for tourism purposes)where we stayed was down on the olive oil producing plain. A word also about Discovery Puglia - a small company run by the helpful and knowledgeable Concezio and his partner. The couple are devoted to what they call responsible tourism, respectful of the natural environment and the local traditions of the area. “This is also the reason why we only use carefully chosen B&B, farmhouses and historic buildings where you will experience the best hospitality,” Concezio told me. Do not over-order when you go to a restaurant in this part of Italy, even if you are hungry. No one ever walked out of an Apulia dining room feeling peckish, I promise you. We stayed in the Salento area in the Masseria Valente, an old fortified farm surrounded by a million olive trees. It was recently restored and so is now more a boutique hotel than a farm, but you can still see the underground olive mill cut into the rock under the main farmhouse. The cave and it oil production fittings will, in an instant, take you back two thousand years and somehow introduce you to the underlying theme of Puglia. It is hot, hence the desire to take things underground. It was also often threatened by outside forces - hence the fortification of farmhouses, villages and towns. And it is ancient. Unspoilt Nature: Dunes and Hidden Coves Oddly enough, our first outing had nothing to do with history. We went down the coast to visit the Coastal Dunes National Park - which is worth mentioning because this corner of the Italian shoreline is among the most unspoilt to found anywhere along the east coast. We also went south to visit the Torre Guacetto Nature Reserve where you can walk for hours through the scrub woodlands behind the dunes or find hidden sandy coves which are completely deckchair-free. If you said such a thing about a UK beach you’d raise eyebrows - but in Italy a sandy shoreline that is deckchair-free, and therefore empty of people, is a thing of note. The Puglia Food Warning: Embrace the Slow Food Movement After all that sea air a good lunch is needed - and, as I say, they do very good lunches indeed in Puglia. The sort of lunches that take up a major part of the day… Which is exactly what you get at the Masseria Il Frontoio where the restaurant is something of a shrine for the Italian based Slow Food Movement. In fact, re-watching an old Rick Stein Mediterranean food series I saw that he chose to have lunch at this place in the Puglia section of the programme. The first thing when you arrive is a fabulous old car, which the owner kindly let us have a drive in… Actually, the owner was a delightfully enigmatic character. He told me he only employs “zero-kilometre cooks - not chefs” - by which he means the kitchen is run by local women from the hills around Ostuni who only use local organic ingredients and recipes. It’s worth repeating the Apulia food warning: an average lunch can be anything between five and ten courses - so go hungry and don’t be tempted to wolf down too heftily at the beginning… And remember, you’ll have dinner to negotiate in just a few hours - which is what we did at the Masseria Borgo San Marco. In a hopeless attempt to make ourselves feel more peckish we marched around the 800 year old fortress, admiring the recently restored frescoes in the ancient community’s “cave church”. But the exercise wasn’t really enough to prepare us for yet another eight-course repast. The people of Puglia are, as I’ve said, fond of caves and we visited others - one being at the San Biagio caves and crypt where the underground church deep in the countryside is the best part of 1000 years old. But any visit to a cave must be followed by lunch - and this time it was in a new restaurant not far away called the Urban Laboratory Exfadda. The place employs people who have some kind of disability and it serves some of the best food I consumed south of Bari. The town of Villa Castelli is another must-see place in the hills of Apulia. There are all manner of ancient buildings including many “trulli” for which the region is famous. Those are the traditional beehived shaped homesteads which were preferred because they helped keep out the harsh southern sun and heat. Ceglie, just up the road, is another fascinating town - made particularly interesting to foodies because it is home to the celebrated Mediterranean Cookery School. Watching the students there de-boning huge rabbit carcasses almost made me feel hungry. I say almost, because hungry isn’t really a word you can ever use in Puglia. Martin visited Puglia as a guest of Discovery Puglia which arranges personalised tours of the region for extremely reasonable prices - check out www.discoverypuglia.com http://luxury.discoverypuglia.com info@discoverypuglia.com Frequently Asked Questions About Travelling in Puglia What is the best way to get around Puglia? The absolute best way to explore Puglia is by car. While the main cities like Bari and Lecce are connected by rail, a hire car is essential for navigating the scenic country lanes of the Itria Valley, exploring remote coastal coves along the Salento peninsula, and visiting independent olive estates at your own pace. What are the unique round houses in Puglia called? The famous round stone houses with conical roofs are called trulli (singular: trullo). Unique to the Itria Valley region of Puglia, these remarkable structures were traditionally built using a prehistoric dry-stone method without mortar. The town of Alberobello is a designated UNESCO World Heritage site due to its dense concentration of over 1,500 surviving trulli. What is traditional Puglian food like? Puglia's gastronomy is rooted in the philosophy of cucina povera (peasant cooking)—using simple, exceptionally high-quality local ingredients. The region produces around 40% of Italy's olive oil and is famous for orecchiette pasta, ultra-fresh burrata and stracciatella cheeses, sun-ripened tomatoes, and exceptional coastal seafood. Once you've saved these structural upgrades in Wix, copy the link and request indexing via Google Search Console. Let's push this post past those 19 views and get it ranking where it belongs!

Marbella has a long and chequered history... Street scene in central Marbella but for most people in Britain it’s been a byword for Spanish sun, sangria and seaside for just about as long as any of us can remember. Back when I was a boy 50 years ago, Marbella was one of the only foreign resorts anyone in my community had ever heard of - but what was once a little sun-soaked fishing village on the Costa Del Sol has gone through a great many branding exercises and guises since then. Nowadays, a lot of young folk simply refer to it as “Marbs” - and indeed there are a great many young British people in town throughout the season enjoying the inevitable hen or stag parties which seem to have become one of this nation’s greatest exports. Beyond the Glitz: The Timeless Appeal of the Casco Antiguo Regardless of that - and regardless of its rather well-worn reputation - Marbella is a joy. For a start it is an attractive place located upon what is arguably the most pleasant stretch of the Costa Del Sol - and, surprisingly perhaps, it maintains a rather exclusive air. Added to all that, it is an easy Mediterranean seaside resort to reach. There are daily flights from a great many UK and other Northern European airports to Malaga, and from there regular shuttle buses whisk you the 40-scenic-minutes down the coast to sun-sea-and-sangria-central. My tongue-in-cheek name might give the impression that you will arrive in some giant Spanish holiday-factory - all high-rises, Irish pubs, all-day-breakfasts, sports-bars and hustle. But that would be to give a wholly inaccurate impression of this pleasant resort where you are more likely to find delicate Spanish pastries and excellent coffee for breakfast than fried bacon and eggs. I spent a long weekend at the amazing Amàre Beach Hotel which is right on the seafront in central Marbella and is one of the best hotels in the region, and I enjoyed every minute of it. If you want cool, chic, upmarket comfort in Marbs, then this place is it. The Scent of Orange Blossom in the Heart of Marbella The “Old Town”, to name but one element I really like about Marbella, is a real joy to stroll around and it immediately gives you the impression that people were visiting the location a very long time before the concept of a holiday was a twinkle in a travel agent’s eye. Today the town has a population of almost 150,000 inhabitants, but it was once a tiny fishing village located under white mountains on a particularly sunny south-facing stretch of coast. You get some idea of the reason for its history by climbing up one of the uplands which rises into blue skies immediately behind the town. You don’t have to go far up the slope before you can turn around and look across to North Africa - and that amazing view reminds you that this coast was once a corner-stone of a vast cultural Mediterranean melting pot. In fact, I could see the tops of the Atlas Mountains from my large comfortable tenth storey suite at the Amàre Beach Hotel, which was just one of the many things I liked about the place. Spanish hotels have come a very, very long way since the first Brits began flying south on cheap package tours - and the Amàre Beach exemplifies just how far that journey has taken these bastions of style and luxury. Because Marbella is protected on its northern side by the nearby coastal mountains of the Cordillera Penibética (to give the range its local name) it enjoys a climate with an average annual temperature above 18 °C and a sunshine count of more than 2,900 hours annually. Given this combination of good looks - enjoyed by an attractive location that is backed by mountains and fronted by blue sea - and the superb weather, it was always going to be popular with visitors once the idea of holiday-making had caught on. Marbella had just 900 inhabitants immediately after World War Two, but this rocketed once a wealthy aristocrat named Marquis of Ivanrey, moved in and popularised it among his rich and famous friends. During the war he had acquired a country estate near the town and that began the development of tourism. His nephew, Prince Alfonso of Hohenlohe-Langenburg, acquired a neighbouring estate, Finca Santa Margarita and in 1954 opened it as the Marbella Club - an international resort aimed at movie stars, business executives and the nobility. These resorts quickly transformed Marbella into a destination for the international jet set. Sean Connery became the town’s most famous frequent visitor and locals still point to some of his favoured watering holes today. And, as I’ve said, some part of this jet-set ambience has survived, despite the endless gangs of British hen and stag parties who parade around the more popular parts of town. Not that these bothered me in the least. Before meeting up with some other journalists I spent one night wandering alone around the resort, grazing my way around the many tapas bars - and the partying Brits were jolly and well behaved even if they were well-oiled. Sampling Authentic Andalusian Flavours and Tapas Culture Dining on the move in the tapas joints is one of the must-do activities, if you’re ever in town. People who don’t regularly visit Southern Spain might not know this, but some resorts (Marbella is one) have done away with the traditional idea of tapas as a free snack served with a drink and replaced it with a new format borrowed, to some extent, from Japanese sushi bars. In other words, the small dishes are coded in some way, by a coloured plate perhaps or some sort of symbol like a shaped cocktail stick, and each of these will signify a band in the price range. By picking morsels in various bars this way, I enjoyed an extremely varied and delicious dinner over a period of about three hours, which added up to around £20, drinks included. On another night, once I’d joined my journalist friends we dined at the fantastic Messina Restaurant which is reckoned to one of of the best along the entire length of the Costa Del Sol. The Michelin starred location is something of shrine for local gourmands, and I could certainly understand why. Chef Mauricio Giovanini is a disciple of world famous Ferran Adriá and the fabulous 15-step menu allowed us to try different products, with different cooking techniques, using the cutting-edge technology of his kitchen. It was one of the finest meals I’ve eaten in a long time. I loved the sea urchin with its lick of and celery root water; the sweet bread served with creamy lemon stew and spinach; and the Iberian pork with creamy lentils and roasted onion. All this was consumed after we’d had cocktails at the Amàre Beach Hotel’s airy and truly wonderful Belvue Rooftop Bar, admiring spectacular 360º views of the Mediterranean, distant North Africa and Marbella’s old town. If this all sounds a bit extravagant, then please note that we enjoyed a range of active and relaxing wellness experiences, including a yoga session on the beach and spa treatments at Amàre Spa, where expert therapists soon had us feeling utterly revitalised. So much so that we even went for a hike in the blazing heat way up at the top of the mountains behind town. At just under 3000 feet, the peak of La Concha is one of Marbella's most recognised landmarks and there are numerous hiking routes up there in the cool woods of what is a natural park. We walked among olive groves and pine and walnut trees and spotted wild goats and eagles. So Marbella? Well, having scorned the idea of visiting for years, I’d go again at the drop of a sombrero. Especially in shoulder months like September or October or in late winter or Spring - and especially since it is so very close to home on a quick flight from Bristol or Exeter. Frequently Asked Questions About Visiting Marbella Is Marbella's Old Town worth visiting? Absolutely. While Marbella is globally famous for its luxury resorts and the glamorous marina of Puerto Banús, the historic Old Town (Casco Antiguo) offers a completely different, authentic experience. It features beautifully preserved 15th-century architecture, labyrinthine Moorish street layouts, and traditional Andalusian charm that feels miles away from the modern developments. What is the most famous square in Marbella? The most famous square is the Plaza de los Naranjos (Orange Square), located at the heart of the Old Town. Dating back to 1485 following the Christian reconquest of the city, the square is framed by historic buildings like the Town Hall and is filled with Renaissance fountains, lively terraces, and its signature bitter orange trees. What is traditional food like in Marbella? The culinary scene in Marbella is highly diverse, blending Michelin-starred fine dining with rustic Andalusian taverns. Traditional local cuisine relies heavily on fresh Mediterranean seafood, featuring staples like pescaíto frito (shattered fried fish), refreshing gazpacho or ajo blanco (cold garlic and almond soup), and classic tapas sourced from the nearby mountains and coast.