Looking for somewhere different for your next UK break? The Isle of Man combines spectacular coastal scenery, Victorian heritage railways, mediaeval castles, mountain views and a unique Celtic-Norse culture. During a visit with the British Guild of Travel Writers I discovered an island packed with surprises, many of which remain unknown to visitors from mainland Britain. Why Visit the Isle of Man? This magnificent island - which is a self-governing British Crown dependency - boasts fabulous rugged coastlines, vast rural landscapes, wild moorlands, a surprising number of mediaeval castles, and much else. It is an absolute jewel - a wonderful surprise for anyone who thought it was just the home of UK mainlanders wanting to avoid tax and leather-clad men who like nothing more than riding motorcycles at suicidal speeds. The island measures approximately 33 miles in length and 13 miles in width at its widest point, encapsulating an area of around 221 square miles. Its topography is an intriguing combination - a harmonious blend of those aforementioned coastlines punctuated here or there by sandy beaches, and hills which extend ever upwards towards Snaefell, the highest peak, rising to 2,036 feet and offering panoramic views across the sea to England, Scotland, Ireland, and Wales on a clear day. The coastline varies enormously, from dramatic cliffs to quiet hidden coves - from busy Victorian seaside resorts to tiny fishing harbours. Inland, the terrain is characterised by verdant valleys, woodlands, high moors and low glens, crisscrossed by a network of rivers and streams. This diverse geography not only shapes the island's distinct natural beauty but also influences its climate, culture, and way of life. I visited with some 50 other members of the British Guild of Travel Writers to explore the island during a time of year that is often overlooked by tourists. Rich History and Cultural Heritage The Isle of Man boasts a rich tapestry of history and culture, which the travel writers were able to experience first-hand thanks to the excellent programme organised by the island’s tourism department. The writers visited historic sites like the ancient fortress in the middle of Castletown and the famous Laxey Wheel, the world's largest working waterwheel. Some of the visits offered insights into the island's Viking heritage, others pointed to its industrial past. We also explored the Manx Museum in Douglas, providing a deep dive into the island’s 10,000-year history. Despite the sometimes stormy and chilly February weather, the BGTW group enjoyed the Isle of Man enormously, as various articles on this website will show. Frequently Asked Questions Where is the Isle of Man? The Isle of Man lies in the Irish Sea between England, Ireland, Scotland and Wales. Although closely linked to the UK, it is a self-governing Crown Dependency with its own parliament, Tynwald, and distinctive Manx heritage. What is the Isle of Man famous for? The island is best known for the world-famous TT motorcycle races, historic steam railways, the Great Laxey Wheel, medieval castles, beautiful coastal scenery and its unique Celtic and Norse heritage. How many days do you need on the Isle of Man? A three to five-day stay allows enough time to explore the island's main attractions, travel on its heritage railways, visit historic sites and enjoy some of its excellent walking and coastal scenery. When is the best time to visit? Late spring through early autumn offers the best weather for sightseeing and walking. The TT races attract thousands of visitors each year, while spring and autumn provide a quieter experience. Is the Isle of Man good for walking? Yes. The island has an excellent network of coastal and upland walks, with spectacular sea views, dramatic cliffs and the summit of Snaefell providing some of the finest scenery in the British Isles. Do you need a passport? Most British and Irish citizens travelling directly between the UK and the Isle of Man do not normally require a passport, although photo identification may be requested by ferry or airline operators. What is the highest mountain on the Isle of Man? Snaefell is the island's highest summit at 620 metres (2,034 feet). On a clear day, tradition says you can see England, Scotland, Wales, Ireland, the Isle of Man and even "Heaven." Is the Isle of Man worth visiting? Absolutely. The Isle of Man offers a unique blend of history, heritage railways, castles, rugged coastlines, wildlife and a culture unlike anywhere else in the British Isles, making it an excellent destination for walkers, photographers and history enthusiasts.

I once did the following hike with the CEO of Dartmoor National Park Authority, Dr Kevin Bishop. The one-way route began at Widecombe-in-the-Moor, a place once made famous by a well-known song. When I was young, everyone knew Uncle Tom Cobley and All, but it seems the youth of today are no longer aware of Tom Pearce’s unfortunate grey mare which was expected to carry Bill Brewer, Jan Stewer, Peter Gurney, Peter Davy, Dan'l Whiddon, Harry Hawk - along with Old Uncle Tom Cobley and all - to Widecombe’s annual fair. This route forms part of my guide to walking on Dartmoor. All along, down along, out along, lee... That is where they travelled before the Mr Pearce’s hapless mare “took sick and died”. This walk retraces their journey, but taking us away from Widecombe, rather than towards it... Kevin Bishop had invited me on the hike so I could learn about the modern challenges facing a national park. Our walk took us from the hills above Widecombe, north all the way to Grimspound, around Headland Warren to the Warren Inn, then south around Soussons Down to eventually terminate at Postbridge. Why Walk Hamel Down? It wasn’t a circular route, but you could easily make it so if you were to swing left near Soussons Farm and head east to eventually cross Blackaton Down. If you start at Widecombe - like so many lowland farmers who would have been heading away from the fair all those years ago, herding cattle or sheep in front of them - you’ll take the route we followed up over a ridge called Kingshead which looms north west of the village. Take the Wooder-Natsworthy lane out of the heart of the picturesque community, then turn left up the track that ascends to the farmstead at Kingshead, and you will be on the right road. This takes you up to the wide empty acres of Hamel Down, which is crossed north-to-south by the Two Moors Way. It’s this track that we follow, climbing all the while, until we reach the great curving summit crowned by the beacon. This wild place might seem like an odd place in which to find relics of war, but traces of WW2 are there in the form of a few wooden posts and a commemoration stone. The poles are what remain of a huge number planted here by local defence forces in the early 1940s when it was feared the down would make it an ideal landing place for enemy gliders. Our route eventually descends north-west past Hameldown Tor to the remains of the ancient settlement at Grimspound. From there we skirted Hookney Tor to pass Headland Warren Farm and cross west over the hillside that gave the place its name. As you walk west over the hill and into the valley under Birch Tor, more and more ruins and workings become evident. In the 19th Century there were any number of tin mines up here 1,400 feet above sea level - the two main workings being at Birch Tor and Vitifer Mines. There's not much left now, but there are some walled enclosures built by the mining community for rabbiting and vegetable growing which are said to be set out in the shape of playing card symbols, known as Jan Reynold’s Cards. Legend has it that Reynolds was carried off by the Devil for gambling in Widecombe Church - and passing this lonesome corner he dropped his cards, which turned to stone. We were heading for lunch at the Warren House Inn which was the hub of the remote mining community. Not only was extracting tin from these hills dark, damp and dangerous, it was also unhealthy because the men were wet-through from morning, noon 'til night. There's no actual record of deaths in the mines - although there was one lucky escape… It happened when men working one of the deepest tunnels were concerned about water backing up somewhere in the rock. They came up for their morning snack, and no sooner had they done so the wall burst under the weight of the flood. Had they still been below, they would have drowned. After lunch we returned to the Vitifer Mine valley, but this time headed south downstream to pass what’s left of the Golden Dagger Mine before entering the pine forests that cover Soussons Down. Walking south, our track took us around the contours, past Soussons Farm, to eventually deposit us on the lane at a place called Ephraim’s Pinch. Who Ephraim was, and why he got pinched, I have no idea - but I do know we walked west along the lane, only to leave it again by taking the track that heads directly onwards toward farm at Pizwell. After this, the farm track took us west again - so that new we were in the low valley created by a young East Dart River. After a mile, close to the grounds of the Lydgate House Hotel, we found a footpath and followed it down to the riverside where it turns upstream to soon reach Postbridge. This was the end of our 10-mile hike but, as I say, you might prefer to follow a route that takes you back east to Widecombe In The Moor. Whichever option you take, you will have enjoyed a fabulous walk in the very heartland of Dartmoor. Fact File Basic Walk - from Widecombe In The Moor north over Hamel Down to Grimspound, then west over Headland Warren to Warren Inn, proceeding south past Soussons Down to Postbridge. Distance and going: 10 miles, easy going, not too steep but could be muddy in places. Frequently Asked Questions Where is Hamel Down on Dartmoor? Hamel Down is a long granite ridge on the eastern side of Dartmoor National Park, overlooking the beautiful village of Widecombe-in-the-Moor. It offers panoramic views across the moor and is one of the best places to experience Dartmoor's wild landscape. How difficult is the Hamel Down walk? The walk is generally classed as moderate. Although there are no major climbs, the route crosses open moorland with uneven ground, rocky paths and occasionally boggy sections. Allow around four to five hours for the full walk. How long is the Hamel Down walk? Depending on the route you choose, most Hamel Down walks cover between 7 and 9 miles (11–14 km). The distance can be shortened if you simply want to explore Hameldown Tor and Grimspound. What is Grimspound? Grimspound is one of Britain's best-preserved Bronze Age settlements. Dating back around 3,000 years, it consists of a large stone enclosure containing the remains of 24 round houses, offering a fascinating glimpse into prehistoric life on Dartmoor. What can you see from Hameldown Tor? On a clear day, Hameldown Tor offers sweeping views across much of Dartmoor, including Haytor, Hookney Tor, Cosdon Beacon and the surrounding moorland. The ridge is also home to Bronze Age burial cairns, boundary stones and a memorial to an RAF bomber crew that crashed here during the Second World War. Is the Hamel Down walk suitable for families? Families with older children who enjoy walking should find the route rewarding. However, younger children may find the distance and exposed terrain challenging, particularly in windy or wet weather. Can I bring my dog? Yes. Dogs are welcome but should be kept under close control, especially around grazing sheep, cattle and Dartmoor ponies. Ground-nesting birds are also vulnerable during the spring and early summer. Where can I park for the walk? Widecombe-in-the-Moor has a convenient public car park and is one of the most popular starting points. Alternatively, some walkers begin near Grimspound for a shorter route onto Hamel Down. Is there public transport to Hamel Down? During the summer months, the seasonal Haytor Hoppa (271) and some local bus services connect Newton Abbot, Bovey Tracey, Haytor and Widecombe, making it possible to enjoy parts of this walk without relying entirely on a car. Always check the latest timetable before travelling as services are seasonal. When is the best time to walk Hamel Down? Spring and autumn provide excellent walking conditions with colourful moorland scenery and fewer visitors. Summer brings long daylight hours and seasonal bus services, while winter walks can be spectacular but require experience, warm clothing and careful navigation if mist descends. Why is Hamel Down important? Hamel Down is one of Dartmoor's richest archaeological landscapes. Along the ridge you'll encounter Bronze Age barrows, ancient boundary stones, Hameldown Cross, wartime anti-glider posts and the remarkable prehistoric settlement of Grimspound, making it a walk that combines outstanding scenery with thousands of years of history.

Looking for one of the best walks on Dartmoor? This classic Haytor to Widecombe walk combines dramatic granite tors, sweeping moorland views, prehistoric landscapes and one of Devon's prettiest villages. Starting beneath famous Haytor Rocks and finishing in Widecombe-in-the-Moor, it's a memorable hike that captures everything people love about Dartmoor National Park. This seven mile walk from Haytor to Widdecombe is designed to showcase Dartmoor’s seasonal weekend bus service, The Hoppa - which is good for the environment as visitors can leave their cars off the hills, and good for local businesses. “The Haytor Hoppa frees walkers up to do linear walks – people could leave their car in Bovey Tracey, jump on the bus, visit our information centre at Haytor, do a walk, call in at Widdecombe… It’s a way they can enjoy the moor and contribute - perhaps having meal when they reach Widdecombe,” said a man from Dartmoor National Park Authority. We alighted from the bus at the new Haytor Visitor Centre. From here it’s always tempting to walk directly up to Haytor Rocks which is one of the most amazing tors on Dartmoor, but we aimed slightly to the north of the famous rock-stacks so we could reach the equally famous Haytor Quarries. The great holes in the granite were full of schoolchildren enjoying an educational day out when we walked by – and presumably they were learning something of the history of the quarries. The old quarries at Hay Tor Basically the story is linked to the remarkable Templer family who lived down at Stover far below - in 1820 George Templer built the extraordinary granite tramway from Haytor to link with the Stover Canal in order to export the granite being extracted from his Dartmoor quarries. The Duke of Somerset then bought the tramway, which eventually fell out of use when the quarries became uneconomic during the 1850s. You’ll see the old granite tracks of the tramway still residing where they were placed all those years ago. I can never look at them without thinking what a terrific grinding clanking noise the trolleys must have made when being pulled along them. Walkers on the Hay Tor tramway, or what remains of its granite rails We head northwest of Haytor Quarries, across the main tramway which is now part of the Templar Way, and continue across the downs to Smallacombe Rocks. From this ragged low tor you are treated to vast views of that normally hidden immensity of countryside which surrounds the mid Teign Valley area. Highlights of the walk Haytor Rocks Haytor Quarry Moorland views Hound Tor Medieval field systems Widecombe church Village pubs As you are facing north enjoying this view from the rocks, then you will see a deep valley dipping to your left – and on the hills almost directly opposite this green abyss you will spy the magnificent twin-pile of Hound Tor. This is where we are heading – needless to say, to reach Hound Tor we must descend way down into the warm and windless valley at the bottom of which we will cross the Becka Brook. To do this we enter the upper limits of the extensive valley woodlands which stretch all the way from here to the depths of Lustleigh Cleave. We’re not among the trees for long, though, because we’re able to cross the brook via a footbridge and climb the steep path that ascends way up past Greator Rocks. Over a century ago William Crossing was claiming these rocks to be one of the most beautiful tors on Dartmoor. To me the Rocks have an almost biblical air. Shrubs and small trees sprout from crevices high above and somehow you can imagine some old First Testament prophet haunting the place armed with nothing but a staff and a foretaste of the centuries... As was his way, Crossing wrote something sad and haunting about the place. It was to do with a maiden and her lover whose habit it was to walk here at eventide: “Then a time arrived when she came alone to the tor, for the youth had been called away to the wars. Summer followed summer, and at length the maiden's visits ceased, and the tor knew her no more. She rested in the quiet churchyard at Manaton, while her lover slept in a foreign field...” Over the eastern shoulder of the rocks we climb, and here a track heads straight back towards Hound Tor. On the way it threads past the site of a mediaeval village where the outlines of the old homesteads are still plain to see, although no-one has lived here for some 650 years. The antediluvian residents lived in longhouses which they shared with their few animals, they grew crops like oats and rye, and they tended kitchen gardens tucked around the settlement. Exactly why they left remains a mystery, but the remains of kilns devised to dry corn might provide a clue. Dartmoor became a damp and cold place during mediaeval times and the folk, quite wisely, upped-sticks for lower climes. We took a shortcut from here, deciding not to visit Hound Tor in the interests of lunch at Widdecombe. So we followed the most direct route by walking southwest over Houndtor Down and turning left along the lane. The moment we saw the fields on our right give way to moorland, we took to the heath crossing Bonehill Down to reach Bonehill Rocks eventually find the smaller lane that drops down to the village. It was simply a matter of following this quiet byway, past the hamlet of Bonehill, to the road junction which is just two minutes walk from Widdecombe, lunch, and the bus-ride back. Fact file Basic Walk: from Haytor Visitor Centre across the moors to Hound Tor, then west via Bonehill Down to Widdecombe. Recommended map: Ordnance Survey Dartmoor OL 28 Distance and going: seven miles, easy going. Bus service: The Haytor Hoppa operates on Saturdays from late May until 15 September and is a circular service which starts/finishes from Haytor Visitor Centre. For further information contact the National Park Visitor Centre at Haytor, tel 01364 661520. Getting there without a car: During the summer months the Haytor Hoppa bus links Newton Abbot, Bovey Tracey, Haytor and Widecombe, making this one of the easiest Dartmoor walks to enjoy by public transport. (Always check current timetables before travelling.) Frequently Asked Questions How long is the Haytor to Widecombe walk? The Haytor to Widecombe walk is around 7–9 miles (11–14 km), depending on the exact route you choose. Allow between four and five hours to enjoy the scenery, explore the tors and stop for refreshments in Widecombe. Is the Haytor to Widecombe walk difficult? This is generally considered a moderate walk. There are some steep climbs and uneven rocky sections, but most reasonably fit walkers should be able to complete it. Good walking boots are recommended, especially after wet weather. Can beginners do the Haytor to Widecombe walk? Yes, although beginners should allow plenty of time and be prepared for rough moorland terrain. Navigation can become more challenging if low cloud or mist descends, so always carry a map or GPS device. Where can I park for the Haytor walk? There is a large National Park car park close to Haytor Rocks, making it one of the easiest starting points for exploring this part of Dartmoor. It can become busy during weekends, school holidays and sunny summer days. Is there public transport between Haytor and Widecombe? Yes. During the summer months the Haytor Hoppa bus links Haytor, Widecombe, Bovey Tracey and surrounding villages, making it possible to complete a linear walk without needing two cars. Always check the latest timetable before travelling, as services are seasonal. Are dogs allowed on the walk? Dogs are welcome on most of the route, but they should be kept under close control, particularly during the bird nesting season and when livestock or Dartmoor's famous ponies, sheep and cattle are grazing on the open moor. What is the best time of year to walk from Haytor to Widecombe? Spring and autumn are often the best seasons, when the moor is quieter and temperatures are ideal for walking. Summer offers long daylight hours and the seasonal Haytor Hoppa bus service, while winter can provide spectacular scenery but requires extra care because of rapidly changing weather conditions. What wildlife might I see on Dartmoor? Depending on the season, you may encounter Dartmoor ponies, sheep, Highland cattle, buzzards, ravens and a variety of moorland birds. Wildflowers, heather and gorse provide colourful displays throughout the year. Is Haytor one of the best walks on Dartmoor? Many walkers consider the Haytor area to offer some of the finest scenery in Dartmoor National Park. The combination of dramatic granite tors, sweeping moorland views, fascinating history and the picturesque village of Widecombe makes it one of the region's classic walks. Are there places to eat in Widecombe? Yes. Widecombe has several welcoming pubs, cafés and tea rooms where walkers can enjoy lunch or refreshments before returning by bus or retracing the route across the moor.

Discover the beautiful Tyrolean villages of Ladis, Fiss and Serfaus, where mountain lifts, spectacular alpine walks and traditional Austrian hospitality create the perfect summer escape. What is an Austrian "sun shelf"? In the Alps, some villages sit on elevated plateaus above deep valleys. These sunny terraces receive many more hours of sunshine than the valley floor below, making them ideal places for farming, walking and holidays. Ladis, Fiss and Serfaus are among the best examples in Tyrol. Deep sunless valleys are a thing to avoid in the Alps, but here and there the great shoulders of the mountains create a kind of high plateau, or shelf, where both the morning and the evening sun shines a good deal longer than it does down below. The triple villages of Ladis, Fiss and Serfaus share such a place on the northern slopes of the Inn Valley. And here’s the thing that’s a real boon to walkers: this beautiful shelf is criss-crossed with cable cars, primarily designed for the winter skiers, but many operate all year long and they open up - in spectacular fashion - all manner of walking routes. These can vary from lower forested affairs that take you along traverses to distant villages, to hikes at really impressive altitudes. In the case of the latter, the cable cars can allow you to begin your walks way up on the mountain. Ladis: A Glimpse into Traditional Tyrolean Life Ladis, the smallest of the three village is where we stayed and it is a gem, known for its historic buildings, including the imposing Laudegg Castle, which dates back to the medieval era. This castle not only adds a touch of historical grandeur to the village but also provides visitors with a fascinating glimpse into the past. The village itself is a tableau of charming, pastel-coloured houses adorned with intricate frescoes, a style typical of the Tyrol region. Walking through the narrow streets of Ladis, one is immediately enveloped in an atmosphere of tranquility and timelessness. For those seeking a more relaxed experience, the village offers several wellness facilities, including thermal spas that make use of the natural springs in the area. Fiss: A Balance of Tradition and Modernity Fiss, slightly larger than Ladis, strikes a perfect balance between preserving its traditional roots and embracing modernity. The village is particularly popular among families due to its wide range of outdoor activities available throughout the year. In the winter, Fiss transforms into a ski paradise, with access to the Serfaus-Fiss-Ladis ski area, known for its well-maintained pistes and modern lift systems. During the summer months (which is when we were there), Fiss offers a plethora of activities such as hiking, mountain biking, and paragliding. One of the highlights is the "Summer Fun Park Fiss," a family-friendly attraction featuring a range of activities from thrilling slides to leisurely scenic chairlift rides. Serfaus: A Haven for Ski Enthusiasts Serfaus is arguably the most well-known of the three villages, particularly renowned for its ski resort. The village boasts an innovative underground air-cushion metro system, a rarity in a village of its size, providing easy and environmentally friendly access to various parts of the ski area. Visitor Information Region: Tyrol, Austria Nearest Airport: Innsbruck (or Zürich if you mention arriving that way) Best Time to Visit: June–September for walking December–March for skiing Perfect for Walkers Couples Families Photography Mountain holidays The ski resort in Serfaus is part of the larger Serfaus-Fiss-Ladis network, offering over 214 kilometers of ski runs, catering to all skill levels, from beginners to advanced skiers. Additionally, Serfaus is home to numerous high-quality restaurants and boutiques, blending Alpine charm with a touch of luxury. Culinary Delights and Cultural Experiences All three villages offer a rich culinary scene, featuring traditional Tyrolean cuisine with a modern twist. Visitors can enjoy local specialties such as Tiroler Gröstl, Kaiserschmarrn, and a variety of cheeses and sausages, often accompanied by locally brewed beers or Austrian wines. Tiroler Gröstl is a hearty, traditional dish originating from the Tyrol region of Austria, exemplifying the region's rich culinary heritage. It was originally created as a way to use up leftovers, thus embodying a practical and resourceful approach to cooking. The dish primarily consists of pan-fried potatoes and onions, mixed with chunks of beef or pork (often leftovers from a roast), all seasoned with salt, pepper, and sometimes garlic or caraway seeds for added flavour. The mixture is cooked until the potatoes are crispy and golden brown. A distinguishing feature of Tiroler Gröstl is its presentation. It's typically served in a large pan, right at the table, often topped with a fried egg. This addition of the egg not only adds a layer of richness to the dish but also brings the flavours together. Tiroler Gröstl is commonly enjoyed as a filling lunch or dinner, especially after a day of physical activity, such as skiing or hiking, making it a staple in the mountainous regions of Austria. Kaiserschmarrn Kaiserschmarrn is a much-loved Austrian dessert, though it's hearty enough to be enjoyed as a main course as well. Its name translates to "Emperor's Mess," a nod to its royal origins and its scrappy, torn appearance. The dish is essentially a sweet, fluffy pancake, made from a batter of eggs, flour, sugar, and milk, often flavoured with a hint of vanilla or rum. Once the pancake is partially cooked in a pan, it's shredded into bite-sized pieces using two forks, resulting in a "messy" look. The pieces are then further fried until they are golden brown and caramelised. Kaiserschmarrn is traditionally served warm, sprinkled with powdered sugar, and accompanied by fruit compotes or sauces, such as apple or plum. Culturally, the region hosts several festivals and events throughout the year, celebrating local traditions, music, and crafts. These events provide visitors with an opportunity to immerse themselves in the local culture and traditions. Sustainable Tourism and Accessibility A noteworthy aspect of these villages is their commitment to sustainable tourism. Efforts have been made to preserve the natural environment, including the promotion of eco-friendly transportation and the implementation of conservation practices in the ski areas. Accessibility is also a key feature, with the region being easily reachable by train and bus from major Austrian cities, making it a convenient destination for both international and local tourists. Ladis, Fiss, and Serfaus, each with their unique charm, come together to offer a multifaceted experience in the Austrian Alps. Whether it's exploring medieval castles, engaging in exhilarating outdoor activities, savouring local delicacies, or simply soaking in the breathtaking Alpine scenery, these villages promise an unforgettable experience for all who visit. FAQs Where are Ladis, Fiss and Serfaus? Ladis, Fiss and Serfaus are neighbouring villages in the Tyrol region of western Austria, perched on a sunny plateau high above the Inn Valley. Is Serfaus-Fiss-Ladis good for summer walking? Yes. Although famous as a ski destination, the extensive network of cable cars and well-marked trails makes it an excellent base for summer hiking. What is Laudegg Castle? Laudegg Castle overlooks Ladis and dates back to the medieval period, adding historic character to one of Tyrol's most picturesque villages. When is the best time to visit the Austrian Alps? For walkers, June to September generally offers the best weather, wildflowers and open mountain lifts. Can non-walkers enjoy Ladis? Absolutely. Scenic cable cars, cafés, traditional villages and mountain restaurants mean there's plenty to enjoy without tackling demanding hikes.

It was the way the woman flew through the air some 100 feet above the Pacific waves that cast a magical spell. But then, everything I had done over that past week had put the patent Wow-o-meter deep into the red. America’s Far West held me enchanted. Why California Captivates Visitors Which wasn’t really unexpected because California is about excitement. California is where “stuff” happens. It is world renowned as a “can-do” kind of place where the weird is wonderful, and the wonderful nearly always thrills. When the person from the America As You Like It travel company asked if I’d like to have a go on a circus trapeze, I wasn’t in the least bit surprised to hear the school was in Los Angeles. That’s a city where some really crazy stuff happens – you only have to traverse its amazing 22-mile long coastal cycle route to learn that. Learning to fly on a high trapeze in LA seems almost subdued. Not quite so subdued, however, that a middle-aged British journalist failed to complete the course thanks to a bad back, however - more of that later. My excuse was that I was suffering a little stiffness thanks to a great deal of driving. Not that I was complaining, because it was quite simply some of the best driving I’ve ever done – way up in the high deserts of that hot, vast and beautiful State. There’s only one kind of vehicle to drive in such places – and OK, I’m going to plant some trees, grow all my own veg and recycle everything including the kitchen sink to repay the planet for this - I hired a big throaty convertible for the job. Only with the roof down and a V8 rumbling under the bonnet can you really go California dreaming… Or, at least, that’s what I used to think before they started making very acceptable electric cars. Driving Through Joshua Tree National Park And it does seem like a dream when you are somewhere like the Joshua Tree National Park. This is everyone’s idea of the Far West – a kind of giant cowboy country consisting of more than half-million acres of stark wilderness. At first glance from your open topped car the desert seems empty save for rocks, the odd tree and more rocks – but it’s actually rich in plants and animals that live in this land of climatic extremes. The trees give the park its name - Joshua trees are a giant type of yucca and as such they look like no other trees you’ve ever seen. Extraordinary rock formations in Joshua Tree National Park Vast granite crags beaten into all shapes and sizes are dotted across the endless empty landscape and between them canyons provide walkers with beautiful trails in which to examine the spring desert flowers and admire the rattlesnakes. I am serious – this national park boasts six different types of this venomous snake. I didn’t see one, though you can believe I was looking all the time as I walked down numerous trails. Nor, alas, did I see the wild bighorn sheep for which the park is famous. On another day we went on a four wheel drive safari into some of the box canyons that adorn the flanks of the San Andreas Fault - which is a feature of so much of California in general, and the valley that plays home to Palm Springs in particular. The town is three hours east of Los Angeles and as your car ascends to the high desert you pass some of the biggest wind-farms you will ever see – they harvest the mighty blasts that can funnel down through the mountains. The nearby fault-line is a fascinating place to explore – or at least it is when the Earth’s tectonic plates are at rest. We followed it some way and saw how the palm trees grow along its length because the fault is a dampish place where water is pushed up from the bowels of terra firma. Our guide, Morgan from Desert Adventures, showed us how the local indigenous Indians used to live along it in their lightweight grass thatched homes. “Earthquakes don’t kill people,” she shrugged. “Buildings do.” Morgan told us box canyons – steep-sided ravines with only one way out – were at their most dangerous in the sudden heavy rains that sometimes fall in these parts. Indeed, you could see how huge boulders had been swept down on tidal waves that can reach the size of a house. Exploring the San Andreas Fault area near Palm Springs After all this savage landscape it was pleasant to return to the luxurious surroundings of the Rancho Las Palmas Hotel in Rancho Mirage, which is a kind of posh suburb or Palm Springs. Our huge suite overlooked cool gardens where waterfowl played on the numerous ponds under the tall palms, but were kept out of the equally numerous swimming pools. In this cool, cocooned world, one felt very far removed from the long, hot highways of the desert, so one day we stopped in the Ace Hotel in nearby Palm Springs for lunch in their authentic old style American diner. If you have a good beef burger, then you have one of the most sumptuous simple meals in the world – and The Ace both offered this treat and also affordable, but beautifully appointed, rooms should you be exploring this area on a tight budget. That night we had dinner in an altogether different setting – the Two Bunch Palms Resort in Desert Hot Springs is just half an hour’s drive away but in another world. Which is exactly what gangster Al Capone liked about it. Located right on the fault line, it not only plays host to groves of cooling trees, but also to unbelievably hot natural springs where you can bathe, chill-out (if that’s not the wrong term) and generally take your leisure. That’s what Mr Capone liked to do when he hid out here with various molls and torpedoes before eventually losing his freedom for tax offences. After becoming sufficiently chilled-out in the high desert, it was time to hit the altogether hotter more intense experiences offered by Los Angeles. Very intense, if four lane traffic jams are not your thing – but once we’d parked the car at our hotel in Santa Monica we didn’t drive again for three days. We biked instead – and Santa Monica is the sort of place that lends itself to this healthy activity, although the Ambrose Hotel on 1255 20th Street does have a complimentary limousine service which will shuttle you to-and-fro from the famous beach and the almost as famous 4th Street shopping area. I use the word famous to describe these places because I have seen both countless times in Hollywood movies and TV programmes. For the beach, think Bay Watch. Then think – bloody-mary. That, at least, is what I did previous to my sky-scraping, cloud-catching trapeze lesson. The best bloody-mary I have ever drunk was consumed at the end of Santa Monica Pier, and it really did help immunise me from the fears of the high trapeze. Not that this turned out to be necessary because the windy journeyings in my convertible had given me a stiff neck which the trainer advised would only get worse as I fought G-forces some 50 feet above the wooden deck. To be honest, I was disappointed because there was a safety net, not to mention a full harness. However, as I watched my fellow students, who all seemed aged between 12 and 18, I began to see that a small degree of suppleness was required. The simple swing seemed easy enough – but within two hours all these kids were flying through the air to be caught by a trapeze artistes hanging upside down on another swing. I’ll admit: that wasn’t going to happen to me in a thousand years – although the teachers told me they’d seen 70 year olds who’d accomplished the brief, death-defying, flight. After that, I needed a stiff drink and a good dinner – which is exactly what I got at the well known Lobster restaurant perched above the pier. It must have one of the best views in all of LA and after I’d finished off a whole large creature of the type which gave the place its name, I asked the waiter if the Hollywood celeb’s frequented the place for the food and ocean vista. “Some,” he shrugged. “But mainly B-listers.” He then gave me a look that suggested I might, in his world, be considered something of a Z-lister and with that I was ready to head north on the second leg of my amazing Californian road journey. Fact File Martin travelled with America As You Like It who offer tailor-made holidays across the USA (www.americaasyoulikeit.com FAQ Section Is Joshua Tree National Park worth visiting? Absolutely. Joshua Tree is one of California's most distinctive national parks, famous for its surreal desert landscapes, giant granite boulders and unique Joshua trees. How far is Palm Springs from Los Angeles? Palm Springs lies about a three-hour drive east of Los Angeles, making it a popular weekend escape into California's desert landscapes. Can you visit the San Andreas Fault? Yes. Guided tours around Palm Springs explore sections of the famous fault line, where visitors can learn about California's geology and desert ecosystems. What is Santa Monica famous for? Santa Monica is known for its iconic pier, wide sandy beaches, coastal cycle path, shopping, restaurants and relaxed Southern California atmosphere. When is the best time to visit Southern California? Spring and autumn generally offer warm, sunny weather with fewer crowds than the peak summer season.

Why Don't We Have a Strong Foraging Tradition in Britain? There’s a deep-seated mystery hiding in the landscapes of this country that I’d love to have explained one day. It’s this: why don’t we have an ancient rural tradition that sees ordinary citizens gleaning food for free in the countryside? We nibble at the edges, yes, but we don’t really go anywhere near the idea that, if necessary, rural-dwellers could sustain life and soul by foraging among the woodlands and hedgerows and on the beaches. Join Martin Hesp and expert forager David Beazley on Exmoor to discover wild garlic, hogweed, edible spring greens and the forgotten pleasures of Britain's hedgerows. I’ve lived in the British countryside for most of my life and, off the top of my head, I can think of just a mean handful of delights people traditionally go out to pick. Blackberries, field mushrooms, sloes, the odd hazelnut or chestnut… There are others and obviously certain individuals have been, and are, far more adventurous - but by-and-large the UK public does not regard the un-farmed countryside as a supplementary bread-basket. Foraging in Southern Italy: A Lesson from Puglia In comparison, I was enjoying a springtime visit to Puglia a few years ago where I was bewildered to see a great many bent figures out on the rocky hillsides. What were they doing? Picking basketfuls of what are sometimes called piante selvatiche (wild plants) or ‘horta’, the Greek word for ‘wild greens’. Stuff like dandelion leaves, thistles, forms of chard, sorrel, chicory, wild asparagus and fennel. In spring you will see ‘horta’ heavily featured in most rural restaurants in Southern Italy. Why Didn't British Rural Communities Forage Like Other Nations? Historically speaking, they’re poor people down in that part of Italy, and here’s the thing - years ago for this newspaper I wrote several features about the tiny harbours of North Cornwall and Devon which were once busy with Westcountry folk emigrating to the Americas because, mysteriously, they were starving to death in our verdant land. Why weren’t those poor, land-less, West Country peasants picking and eating our version of ‘horta’ or, indeed, harvesting the vast numbers of edible fungi we have in our damp land, or going down on the shoreline to grab the many types of edible seaweed? There are obviously historic reasons why so many other nations around the globe did pass down a comprehensive knowledge of wild food from generation to generation, but why didn’t we? I’d love to know. Something to do with the Industrial Revolution, that’s part of the reason - but it must be more than that because countries like Italy, France and Japan all became industrialised. Meeting Foraging Expert David Beazley in Devon I was talking to a top foraging expert last week who was as baffled as me - but at least David Beazley has plenty of answers when it comes to harvesting the good stuff. David, who now describes himself as “retired chef-current forager”, was kind enough to travel all the way from South Devon to my Exmoor valley so that he could demonstrate the art of picking the kinds of wild spring greens we have here in the South West. And it was a revelation! A Foraging Expedition in the Exmoor Valley As you can see in one of my photographs, we made a colourful and delicious salad - and also, under David’s instruction, I made a surprisingly good version of a homity-pie… From hogweed, of all things! We’ve met David before in these pages. He used to be a chef-lecturer at Exeter College and he’d occasionally take his students out on foraging trips. “So many chefs do not know where their food comes from,” he told me as we set off up my valley the other day. “They pick up a phone and the ingredients are with them next morning. Apart from anything else, going out to where the food comes from can help give you ideas.” Cooking Wild Greens: Hogweed Homity Pie and Foraged Salads And so I have written several foraging articles in the past with David’s help (wild estuary eating at Shaldon, prawning at Dawlish, and one about St George’s mushroom - highly relevant to the present week as you’ll see in our panel), which meant I was over the moon when he sent a message saying: “Why don’t I come up to your place and we’ll see what we can pick in your local hedgerows…” David told me that he was celebrating his 50th year in the catering industry, having worked with well known chefs like Sonia Stevenson (the first British woman to be awarded a Michelin star) at Devon’s Horn of Plenty, and Joyce Molyneux at Dartmouth’s Carved Angel. They taught him to look to the local environment for inspiration and ingredients. “At the Carved Angel we had a German couple who used to bring in wild mushrooms. The money for their basket of mushrooms was more than I was earning in a week! So I gave myself a plan and ended up going to Haldon Hill Forest (near Exeter) thinking I’d get some chanterelles or ceps. Unfortunately, it took me over two years to find them. But that’s how I got involved. Now foraging is very current and trendy with chefs.” From Forest to Plate: The Modern Popularity of Foraging At this point David talked about a hugely successful new restaurant called Gather, in Totnes, which is run by one of his former students. Harrison Brockington was recently named South West Chef of the Year and the restaurant has been featured in the Channel 4 series Remarkable Places to Eat - and David calls in on a weekly basis to deliver foraged goodies gleaned from his South Dartmoor locale. Hesp Out West hopes to visit Gather in the near future, in the meantime our foraging mentor was busy picking edible plants within two minutes of leaving my front door. He could have begun harvesting sooner than that but I asked him to ignore the bales of wild garlic on offer, as it’s the one wild green I do pick and I’ve been consuming vast quantities of it for the past two months. Instead, David was grabbing fronds of hogweed, which I have always avoided thanks to the reputation of its over-sized giant cousin, which’ll give you a nasty rash. Tasting Wild Flavours: How Wild Greens Surprise the Palate Like a lot of wild greens, hogweed is not an item you’d want to eat raw, but cooked it has a unique flavour that is difficult to describe. A touch of extremely mild celery with a peppery undertone, would be one way of putting it. The chopped and sautéed young stalks and leaves went extremely well in the homity-pies, after we’d mixed them with mashed potatoes, which we then piled into a pre-cooked pastry case before topping with grated smoked cheddar. Heated in the oven for ten minutes, the little pies were a springtime treat of pure and simple joy. We served them with a platter of foraged leaves which, tossed in a simple dressing of olive oil and sea-salt, formed the most interesting and, in many ways, delicious salad I’ve had this year. “I’m guessing there’s at least 10 if not 12 different things in the salad,” commented David. “All with their different flavours - the wild garlic flowers are quite strong, the sorrel is very citrusy, the penny warts are quite melon-like and cucumbery… Then you've got the different flowers (white wild garlic, yellow primrose and dandelion petals, pink campion) although they don’t have much flavour, they do bring some colour to it. “You’re getting a whole new range of flavours to play with,” he went on. “And, actually, because this is wild food, the flavours tend to be stronger than if it was cultivated. For example, take a cultivated strawberry, then compare it with a little wild strawberry from the hedgerow - there's more flavour in that tiny strawberry than there is in that big one, if it has any flavour in it at all! “Food is about the flavours, so foraging offers a whole new palette to play with,” said David as he left to drive back to Devon, and I couldn’t agree with him more. St George’s Mushroom: A Hidden Springtime Treasure Mushroom Foraging in Spring: The Surprise of St George’s A few years ago David Beazley invited me to go hunting for mushrooms in April, which I thought odd at the time. Late summer and autumn are usually regarded as the time for fungi foraging. But when he added that we’d meet in a West Country industrial estate, I thought perhaps it was an April Fools joke. In the event, we ended up finding a haul of truly delicious fungi, called St George’s Mushroom after the fact that it usually appears on or around St George’s Day. For some reason, a greensward in the busy industrial estate (a location I shall keep secret in honour of David) was thick with these small white fungi. How to Identify and Cook St George’s Mushrooms “They always grow in grass,” David told me as we stalked between the industrial units five years ago. “Grass and trees - not sure which variety - but we have cherry and birch here, which they are associated with. The mushrooms are creamy in colour - the cap, stalk, and gills are all the same colour. The cap itself is wavy and it tucks underneath around the edge, they have a mealy smell, and they are solid and heavy for their size.” David goes to great lengths to hunt down St George’s because he says they’re one of the best edible fungi we have. “I love them because of their texture and amazing flavour,” he told me. “They are among my favourites. But if you’d spotted these in the autumn when the amanitas are out, you’d be right to be extra cautious because they have the same sort of creamy white top, stalk and gills - and you could kill somebody with one of those. People say that because they grow in April-May they are definitely safe, but I would still go through careful identification just to be sure. “I use my skill as a forager to find them and I use my skill as a chef to maximise their flavour. I love to pan-fry them - the same pan as the one in which I’ve fried smoked bacon. Then put some cream in to pick up all that lovely flavour. Place on a muffin with a poached egg on top. Absolutely delicious. A springtime breakfast! You could leave the bacon out if you were a vegetarian, but you would miss out because you need a bit of saltiness. “I also like the idea of wild garlic mushrooms. So I’ve fried the St Georges in butter, then put some shredded wild garlic through it. To make it a bit cheffy, I’ve put it in a wrap. You can eat it hot or cold - either way. Take it with you on a spring walk.” A Final Forager’s Reflection The St Georges I enjoyed with David five years ago were amazingly good - alas we didn’t find a single one while foraging in my valley this week. But, hey-ho, there was plenty of other bounty to celebrate. FAQs What can you forage in Britain during spring? Spring brings wild garlic, hogweed shoots, sorrel, nettles, dandelions, chickweed and many other edible plants, although every species should be correctly identified before eating. Is hogweed safe to eat? Young common hogweed can be eaten when correctly identified and cooked. However, it must never be confused with giant hogweed, which is dangerous. What is the easiest wild food to identify? Wild garlic is often considered one of the easiest because every part smells strongly of garlic when crushed. Is foraging legal in the UK? Small amounts of wild food can often be gathered for personal use where permitted, but always respect private land, protected sites and local regulations. Why is spring the best season for foraging? Young shoots and leaves are at their most tender in spring, making it one of the richest times of year for edible wild plants. About David Beazley David Beazley is a retired chef, former lecturer at Exeter College and one of the South West's most knowledgeable foraging experts. Over a career spanning more than 50 years, he has supplied wild ingredients to leading restaurants and taught generations of chefs how to identify and cook Britain's edible wild plants.

Discover how Indulgence Catering brings restaurant-quality food, fresh Cornish seafood and local produce to your holiday cottage, celebration or special occasion. Robin Turner and Rebecca Farrington-Turner , of indulgence Catering In another article we describe a stay at the Fallen Angel, an amazing architect-designed holiday villa in Mousehole, West Cornwall - and in it we mention that while there we enjoyed a fabulous dinner delivered and cooked on the spot by Indulgence Catering. When Rebecca Farrington-Turner said she’d cook us a meal to remember, I was confident she would. Why? Because (hands up here) she and her husband Robin Turner are old friends—indeed, I occasionally consult Robin when it comes to the latest in fishing and seafood news. Moreover, we’ve dined with the couple before—we once had a memorable meal at their Newlyn house where we compared fresh lobster and locally caught crawfish. How many people can say they’ve had a supper like that? Introducing Indulgence Catering: Local, Luxury Dining in Your Holiday Home But this was the first time we’d used their professional services—by which I mean the service Indulgence Catering has been offering to people staying down West Cornwall way for the past decade. Cornwall food experiences, private chefs in Cornwall, and local Cornish produce are increasingly sought after—and Rebecca and Robin have perfected the formula. A Taste of Cornwall Delivered to Your Doorstep “What we’ve found is that when people come down this far West and stay somewhere as lovely as this, they’re often reluctant to go out to supermarkets to buy ingredients and, likewise, they might not want to have to go out to a restaurant,” says Rebecca. “So, we organise some meals with them before they come down by sending off some sample menus. They choose what they want and let us know in advance. When they get here, we come and cook and then clear and wash up and then leave. “We bring all the ingredients and cook for them on the spot. In a property like the Fallen Angel there’ll be just two guests, so they’ll be literally a metre away while we are cooking—which means we can talk about the local provenance of the food, which a lot of people are interested in. “We work almost entirely with local ingredients. Robin is a well-known figure in the Cornish fishing industry so he has access to amazingly fresh seafood, which of course people like to enjoy when they come here. “Imagine staying here and seeing the trawlers coming in and out of Newlyn harbour just around the corner—you’re almost bound to want to try the fresh fish and shellfish.” A Luxury Cornwall Food Experience With Sea Views We didn’t have to imagine it… We were lucky enough to experience the magic combo. Sea views and seafood. Catering for Cornwall Weddings, Birthdays & Special Occasions Indulgence Catering also supplies meals to wedding parties, birthday celebrations, and other social get-togethers in Cornwall. “Altogether we cater for a couple of dozen different properties—everything from weddings to special birthdays.” Health-Focused Food Made With Love and Local Produce Rebecca Farrington-Turner , of indulgence Catering Recently Rebecca passed exams to become a fully qualified health coach, so most things offered by Indulgence Catering tend to have a healthy theme. “Of course our clients want the food to be really good, but also it’s also important that it’s healthy. So we don’t use processed food—everything is made from scratch.” I’ll be spending some time in the kitchen with Rebecca later in the year to learn about the kind of food that’s good for your gut-biome etc. In the meantime, she was kind enough to give me a recipe for her delicious crab cakes, which are one of the favourite items on the Indulgence Catering menu… Recipe: Indulgence Catering’s Cornish Crab Cakes with Katsu Curry Sauce A Delicious West Cornwall Dish to Make at Home Ingredients For the crab cakes 500g pot of white crabmeat 500g mashed potato 1 red chilli handful chopped coriander 2 tbsp chopped spring onion 2 eggs plain flour Panko breadcrumbs For the katsu curry sauce 1 tbsp oil 1 onion, diced 3 garlic cloves, chopped 1 tbsp chopped fresh ginger 1 or 2 tbsp mild curry powder 2 tbsp plain flour 2 tbsp honey 2 tbsp soy sauce ½ litre vegetable stock 200ml coconut milk Method Make the crab cakes: Place the crab cake ingredients in a bowl and mix well. Season with salt and pepper. Roll into ten individual balls and flatten to make crab cakes. Lightly beat the eggs and place in a bowl. Put the breadcrumbs and plain flour into separate bowls. Coat each crab cake first in the flour, then egg wash, then breadcrumbs. Set aside. Make the curry sauce: Heat oil in a pan and add onion, garlic and ginger. Cook until softened. Add curry powder and cook for a minute before adding the flour. Slowly add the stock, stirring constantly to avoid lumps. Add the coconut milk and cook for around 5 minutes. Add honey and soy sauce. Taste and season as necessary. Fry the crab cakes: Shallow fry the crab cakes in hot oil until golden brown. To serve: Pour the curry sauce into a bowl and place crab cakes on top. Garnish with finely chopped spring onion, carrot, and radish. Planning a Trip to Cornwall? Add This to Your Culinary Itinerary Whether you're staying in a luxury coastal cottage or celebrating a special occasion with friends and family, Indulgence Catering offers a truly memorable food experience in West Cornwall. With a focus on fresh seafood, local produce, and health-conscious meals, Rebecca and Robin have created a private dining experience that is both relaxed and indulgent. Robin Turner, of Indulgence Catering FAQ Section What does a private chef in Cornwall do? A private chef prepares and cooks restaurant-quality meals in your holiday accommodation, bringing all the ingredients, serving the food and clearing everything away afterwards. Is hiring a private chef worth it? If you're celebrating a special occasion or simply want to relax on holiday, a private chef allows you to enjoy exceptional local food without leaving your accommodation. Does Indulgence Catering use local Cornish ingredients? Yes. Fresh Cornish seafood, seasonal vegetables and locally sourced produce are at the heart of the menus, creating an authentic taste of Cornwall. Can private chefs cater for weddings and birthdays? Yes. Indulgence Catering provides bespoke catering for weddings, birthdays, anniversaries and other celebrations across West Cornwall. Is this suitable for holiday cottages? Absolutely. One of the biggest attractions is enjoying restaurant-quality food without having to drive or book a table, making it ideal for luxury holiday cottages and coastal retreats.

Drive California's spectacular Pacific Coast Highway from San Francisco to Los Angeles, discovering Big Sur, Monterey, Carmel, Hearst Castle and unforgettable ocean scenery. Travel is a concept imbued with boundless ambition. With so many places and experiences available on our amazing planet, creating a bucket list becomes an essential exercise in capturing the most remarkable moments life has to offer. One such experience is driving Highway One along the Pacific Coast from Los Angeles to San Francisco—a journey I had wanted to enjoy since reading Steinbeck's Cannery Row as a young boy. Now that I have completed this iconic route, I can say it deserves a prominent place on anyone's travel list. Why California Highway 1 Is One of the World's Greatest Road Trips The highlight of Highway One is undoubtedly Big Sur, a stunning 90-mile stretch of unspoiled natural beauty. With minimal development—almost no towns or villages—this segment of the drive offers the purest combination of ocean and mountain scenery, creating an immersive experience that captures the heart with every twist and turn. The name "Big Sur" derives from the Spanish "el sur grande", which translates to "the big south." The vastness of Big Sur is beyond what many can imagine, certainly more expansive than anything comparable in the Westcountry. The closest analogy might be the Exmoor coast, though it pales in comparison after spending an entire day traversing from San Luis Obispo to the coastal resort town of Carmel. During the drive, you will witness rugged cliffs, hidden coves, and a variety of wildlife, from sea otters floating among the kelp forests to California condors soaring above the craggy peaks. Start of the Journey: Los Angeles Our adventure began in the bustling metropolis of Los Angeles, with its infamous traffic jams and frenetic pace. However, the journey transformed once we left Santa Monica behind, and Highway One began to reveal the breathtaking coastal beauty that lay ahead. The iconic palm trees swayed in the wind as we cruised along, while the scent of saltwater hinted at the adventure awaiting us. Malibu and Ventura were our first noteworthy stops on California Highway 1. In Malibu, we passed the exclusive beach homes of Hollywood stars, their luxurious mansions evoking the glamour synonymous with the region. Ventura, in contrast, was a poignant reminder of California's diverse socioeconomic landscape. Here, teams of immigrants from Mexico and South America laboured in the strawberry fields, their hard work and resilience contrasting sharply with the opulence we had just left behind. Santa Barbara: The Perfect Lunch Stop Santa Barbara, one of the most beautiful and refined communities along Highway One, served as the perfect place for a midday break. Its scenic surroundings, Spanish-style architecture, and relaxed atmosphere provided an ideal respite before continuing northward. Palm-lined streets and the charming Stearns Wharf offered stunning views of the ocean and the distant Channel Islands. We settled at a local bistro for lunch, where we savored the farm-to-table cuisine that showcases the vibrant, fresh flavors of California. After lunch, we continued our journey, spending two nights in Pizmo Beach to explore the area's diverse offerings. Pizmo Beach has three distinct facets: the expansive golden beach with excellent surf, the kitschy tourist area filled with fast-food joints and bars, and the upscale section with hotels offering breathtaking ocean views. We opted for a stay at the Sea Crest Resort, where we could whale-watch from our comfortable suite perched above the ocean. The sunsets here were spectacular, painting the sky in vivid hues of orange and pink as the waves crashed onto the shore below. Sycamore Mineral Springs: Hot-Tub Heaven 🏝️✨ To escape the busier parts of Pizmo Beach, we drove along California Highway 1 to Sycamore Mineral Springs near Avila Beach for an unforgettable evening. We enjoyed dinner in modern Californian style, followed by several moonlit hours soaking in a private hot tub on the mountainside. The hot tubs at Sycamore Mineral Springs have a fascinating history, dating back to 1886, when prospectors seeking "liquid gold" discovered instead the naturally occurring hot sulphur mineral water. The water's supposed healing properties made it a popular destination, and as we soaked in the steaming water surrounded by nature, it was easy to understand why. The serene ambiance under a blanket of stars made it an evening to remember. Exploring Morro Bay: Champagne Breakfast Cruise 🍷⛵ Sunday morning brought us to Morro Bay, a picturesque natural harbour with a laid-back charm. We boarded The Chablis, a 50-foot riverboat, for a leisurely champagne breakfast cruise. The views of Morro Rock, an imposing 500-foot volcanic plug, dominated the harbour entrance and added a dramatic touch to the landscape. As we drifted along the calm waters, we spotted sea lions lounging on the docks, pelicans diving into the bay for fish, and playful sea otters floating on their backs. Morro Bay's unassuming atmosphere and natural beauty made it a perfect place to pause and enjoy the simple pleasures of the California coast. After our cruise, we took time to explore the waterfront, visiting local shops and art galleries. We also explored Morro Bay State Park, which offered scenic hiking trails and a small natural history museum that provided insights into the region's unique ecosystem. The views of the bay from the park, framed by the mountains in the distance, were absolutely stunning. SLO to Big Sur: A Journey Through History and Wilderness 🏠🗼 Before heading further north, we stopped for a walking tour of San Luis Obispo (SLOtown), a historic town founded in 1772. The town's Mission San Luis Obispo de Tolosa, one of California's oldest missions, gave us a glimpse into the region's colonial history. The charming streets of SLO are lined with boutiques, cafes, and historic architecture, providing a glimpse of life in a quintessential small California town. The drive through Big Sur is simply beyond words. Leaving San Simeon behind, the road winds through the rugged Santa Lucia Mountains, where the interplay between ocean and mountain creates an extraordinary landscape. The area's remoteness has inspired countless artists and writers, including Henry Miller and Jack Kerouac, and it is easy to see why. We stopped at Pfeiffer Beach, renowned for its purple sands and dramatic rock formations. Watching the waves crash through the natural archways in the rocks was mesmerising, . We also explored Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park, where an 80-foot waterfall cascades onto a secluded beach. The park's trails meandered through ancient redwood groves, providing breathtaking views of the coastline below. The sense of solitude and the untamed beauty of Big Sur offered a reminder of the majesty of the natural world. Carmel & Monterey: California's Gems 💎 After Big Sur, we arrived at Carmel, a picturesque town that has long attracted artists, writers, and celebrities—including Clint Eastwood, who served as mayor. Carmel is known for its charming cottages, art galleries, and beautiful white-sand beach. We spent the afternoon wandering Carmel Village, enjoying the quaint architecture and stopping for coffee and pastries at a local bakery. The town's commitment to preserving its natural beauty is evident; there are no streetlights or neon signs, allowing the stars to shine brightly overhead at night. Though we chose to skip Monterey on this trip, it is worth noting that Cannery Row and the Monterey Bay Aquarium are must-visit spots for anyone exploring this area. The aquarium provides a fascinating glimpse into the diverse marine life of the Pacific, and Cannery Row's historic charm is captivating. Santa Cruz: Surfing, Wine, and Relaxation 🍽🌊🍇 Santa Cruz is a place I could easily see myself living, were it not for my love of the English Westcountry. This town has it all: excellent surfing beaches, scenic hillsides, and outstanding local wines. We stayed at the Santa Cruz Dream Inn, a beautiful hotel overlooking the central beach—a haven for beginner surfers. I even took a surfing lesson from Ed Guzman of Club Ed. Ed's relaxed teaching style and encouragement made the experience enjoyable, even for a novice like me. Catching even a small wave was exhilarating, and it gave me a newfound appreciation for the sport. Our visit also included a stay at Adobe on Green Street, a charming bed and breakfast that provided an affordable base for exploring the region. We joined a wine tour at Burrell School Winery, which offered tastings of some of the area's best vintages, and spent an afternoon kayaking in the wildlife-rich estuary at Moss Landing. Paddling through the calm waters, we were treated to sightings of playful otters, barking sea lions, and a variety of bird species, from elegant egrets to busy sandpipers. It was a peaceful and immersive way to connect with the natural beauty of the region. We also explored Henry Cowell Redwoods State Park, where towering redwoods create a tranquil, cathedral-like atmosphere. Walking among these giants was a humbling experience, and the peacefulness of the forest provided a perfect counterbalance to the thrill of surfing and kayaking. Santa Cruz has something for everyone—whether you seek adventure or simply a place to relax. Wrapping Up: A Trip of a Lifetime 🌟 Our Californian road trip concluded with a decadent seafood meal at Phil's Fish Market, famous for serving some of the best seafood along the coast, before heading to San Francisco Airport. This two-week journey along Highway One was undoubtedly a "trip of a lifetime"—a perfect culmination of adventure, nature, culture, and relaxation. As we approached San Francisco, the Golden Gate Bridge came into view, a fitting end to an unforgettable journey. The memories of sweeping ocean vistas, towering cliffs, charming small towns, and warm Californian sunshine will remain etched in my mind, and I feel truly grateful for the experience. Highway One is more than just a scenic drive; it is an odyssey through some of the world's most captivating and diverse landscapes. Whether you are a nature lover, a history enthusiast, or simply in search of a grand adventure, this road trip offers something special. The freedom of driving along an open road, with the Pacific Ocean on one side and rugged mountains on the other, is truly an unparalleled experience. Highway One, Pacific Coast, Big Sur, California road trip, Carmel, Santa Cruz, Steinbeck, Pizmo Beach, Morro Bay, Sycamore Mineral Springs, Monterey, San Luis Obispo, Santa Barbara, Malibu, Los Angeles to San Francisco drive 🚘🌅🏔️🌟💎🍽 Planning your next great adventure? 🗼 Don't forget to add the epic Highway One road trip to your bucket list! Share your thoughts or experiences below 👇. FAQ Section Is Highway 1 or the Pacific Coast Highway the same road? Yes. California State Route 1 is commonly known as Highway 1 or the Pacific Coast Highway (PCH), although locals often use the names interchangeably. How many days do you need for a Highway 1 road trip? Three to five days allows enough time to enjoy Monterey, Carmel, Big Sur, Hearst Castle and Santa Barbara without rushing. Which direction is best? Most visitors drive north to south, keeping the Pacific Ocean on the passenger side and making it easier to stop at viewpoints. Is Big Sur worth visiting? Absolutely. Big Sur is widely regarded as the most spectacular stretch of Highway 1, with dramatic cliffs, redwood forests and iconic viewpoints such as Bixby Bridge and McWay Falls. Can Highway 1 be driven all year? Usually yes, but landslides and winter storms can cause temporary closures. Always check road conditions before travelling.

Why Samos is One of Greece's Best Walking Islands Martin Hesp enjoying his walking tour of Samos If you're looking for one of Greece's best walking destinations, look beyond the famous islands of Crete, Corfu and Rhodes. Samos, lying close to the Turkish coast in the eastern Aegean, is a remarkably green island of pine forests, mountain ridges, vineyards and timeless villages. It is a place where walkers can spend hours following ancient mule tracks without seeing another soul. I first discovered Samos on a trip to Greece and quickly realised this wasn't simply another Mediterranean sunshine destination. It was an island where every day's walk combined dramatic scenery with genuine encounters among local people. Much of that was thanks to one unforgettable man — our guide Rupert Mostert, who seemed to know almost everyone on the island. Years ago, I travelled to the Greek island of Samos to take part in a walking week organised by Rambler’s Worldwide Holidays. The experience, filled with much laughter, unforgettable meals, natural beauty and cultural exploration, remains etched in my memory, largely thanks to the remarkable guide who led us on one particularly challenging and memorable hike. His name was Rupert Mostert, an unforgettable character with a charisma that left a lasting impression - and he was an expert on walking holidays in Greece. Samos, situated in the eastern Aegean Sea, is renowned for its lush landscapes, stunning coastline, and rich historical heritage. This island is an ideal destination for those who appreciate nature, culture, and outdoor adventures. Walking on Samos provides an immersive experience, where you can explore the island's diverse terrain while connecting with the welcoming locals who contribute so much to its charm. The Legendary Guide Rupert Mostert “Yassas, yassas – kalimera, kalimera…” With these enthusiastic Greek greetings resonating through the air, we made our way into the small villages and hamlets scattered across the verdant landscape of Samos. These greetings were not merely spoken but energetically shouted by Rupert, our extraordinary guide. Rupert, who had been leading hiking in Greece for over four decades, was a true expert in Aegean island hiking. His fluency in Greek and deep knowledge of the local culture transformed every step of our journey into an immersive experience. Samos Town (Vathy) Rupert was more than a guide; he was a storyteller, an entertainer, and a passionate ambassador for the island’s history and culture. His close connections with the people and places of Samos were apparent in every interaction, and his enthusiasm was contagious. His knowledge extended beyond the hiking trails—he understood the island's secrets, its legends, and its heart. A 13-Mile Mountain Walk Across Samos Rupert joined our group for only one of the seven days we spent on Samos, but that single day left an indelible mark on all of us. He took us on a strenuous 13-mile hike starting from a ridge near Platanos, located in the heart of the island, descending through endless vineyards, dense forests, patches of gorse, and scenic river valleys. Our destination was the picturesque north coast, near Neo Karlovasi. The hike was challenging, with steep descents and rugged terrain, but the beauty of the surroundings made every effort worthwhile. The vineyards we passed were lush and vibrant, heavy with ripening grapes, while the forests were alive with the songs of birds and the rustling of leaves. The river valleys were dotted with colourful wildflowers, adding bursts of brightness to the landscape. Every turn in the trail offered a new breathtaking view, from distant mountain peaks to glimpses of the sparkling Aegean Sea. Traditional Villages and Greek Hospitality As we trekked through the remote villages along our route, Rupert was greeted like a long-lost friend. He brought small gifts for elderly villagers he had known for years, adding a personal and intimate touch to our adventure. Rupert’s relationship with the islanders was heartwarming—he even called ahead to a small mountain village taverna, where the owners responded by baking a special cake just for us. 🍰 In another village, one of Rupert’s old “girlfriends” (who must have been well over 90, if not 103) insisted that we pass through her humble home, where she gave each of us a freshly picked apple from her orchard. 🍏 Rupert’s colourful personality was on full display when he helped a local shepherd by carrying a kid goat—a spontaneous gesture that spoke volumes about his deep familiarity with the community. The hospitality of the villagers was truly touching. We were welcomed into their homes, offered food and drink, and treated like family. Rupert's presence clearly brought joy to these people, and we were fortunate to be part of these heartfelt interactions. These moments of connection made the hike much more than a physical journey - it was a cultural experience that allowed us to understand the true spirit of Samos. The Landscapes of Samos Despite the physical demands of the hike, Rupert’s extensive collection of anecdotes, local legends, and Greek recipes made every step enjoyable. His stories brought the history and culture of Samos to life in vivid detail. It was the only hike on Samos where I felt a twinge of exhaustion, but Rupert's energy was so infectious that any fatigue was easily forgotten. Rupert regaled us with tales of ancient gods and goddesses, of heroes who had walked the very paths we were now traversing. He spoke of the island’s famous son, Pythagoras, and how the renowned mathematician and philosopher had once roamed these hills. He also shared local myths, like the legend of the nymphs said to inhabit the island’s springs and streams. Interspersed with these stories was practical advice on Greek cuisine, and we learned how to make traditional dishes such as dolmades and tzatziki. 🥗 History Along the Walking Trails Samos is a hiker’s paradise—an island covered in emerald-green forests, peaceful vineyards, and dramatic mountain ridges. The paths lead through landscapes where nature and culture seamlessly blend. Walking on Samos offers much more than physical exercise; it’s a journey into the heart of Greek tradition, where each village has its own story, and every vista evokes a profound sense of wonder. 🏞️ Exploring Samos on foot allows you to experience its beauty at your own pace—from rocky trails that offer stunning coastal views to winding paths through ancient olive groves. The warm-hearted people of the island, like the villagers who welcomed us with open arms, add an unforgettable layer to the experience. Each step in Samos is a step back in time, with every encounter and every view underscoring why walking is the ideal way to discover this captivating Greek island. The island’s diverse terrain provides something for every level of hiker. Coastal paths offer spectacular views of the turquoise sea, while inland trails lead through lush valleys and up to panoramic viewpoints. The air is filled with the scent of wild herbs, and goats grazing on the hillsides add to the pastoral charm. Walking on Samos isn’t just about reaching a destination; it’s about embracing the journey, savouring the sights, sounds, and tastes of this magnificent island. The Rich History and Culture of Samos Samos is not only a place of natural beauty; it is also an island rich in history and culture. It was home to some of the greatest minds of ancient Greece, including Pythagoras and Epicurus. Walking through its landscapes, one can almost sense the presence of these influential philosophers and mathematicians. Ancient ruins, Byzantine churches, and traditional villages all tell the story of an island that has stood at the crossroads of history for millennia. One of the highlights of walking on Samos is visiting the Heraion, the sanctuary dedicated to Hera, queen of the gods. This UNESCO World Heritage site serves as a testament to the island’s historical importance and offers a fascinating glimpse into the past. As you walk among the ruins, it’s easy to imagine the grandeur of the ancient temple and the people who once gathered there to worship. The island’s historical legacy adds depth to every walk, turning each step into a journey through time. Plan Your Adventure If you are eager to immerse yourself in the rich culture on a trip to Greece with its stunning natural beauty, and warm hospitality, consider walking on Samos. Whether you follow in Rupert’s footsteps or forge your own path, the memories you create on this island will be truly unforgettable. 🌿✨ Take time to plan your routes, and don’t hesitate to explore beyond the well-trodden paths. Samos is full of surprises—hidden waterfalls, secluded beaches, and breathtaking views await those willing to explore. Pack a picnic, bring plenty of water, and set out with a spirit of adventure. The rewards are endless: incredible views, friendly encounters, and the deep satisfaction that comes from discovering one of Greece’s most beautiful islands in an authentic and meaningful way. Frequently Asked Questions About Walking in Samos Is Samos good for walking holidays? Yes. Samos is one of Greece's finest walking islands, offering mountain trails, forests, vineyards, ancient villages and spectacular coastal scenery. When is the best time to walk in Samos? Spring (April-May) and autumn (September-October) provide warm temperatures and ideal walking conditions. Are the walks difficult? Samos offers everything from gentle coastal walks to demanding mountain hikes. Can you walk independently? Yes, although guided walking holidays provide access to local knowledge and lesser-known routes. What should walkers pack? Walking boots, plenty of water, trekking poles for steeper descents, sun cream and a hat. Walking in Samos at a Glance Best months: April, May, September, October Difficulty: Easy to challenging Highest mountain: Mount Kerkis Terrain: forests vineyards mountain tracks rocky paths coastal trails Ideal for walkers photographers birdwatchers food lovers history enthusiasts

AI, Processed Information, and the Value of First-Hand Experience This week Google announced a new way of browsing for information online - a system that relies on artificial intelligence to find out, describe or explain whatever it is you wish to learn. Which will no doubt be very useful. But, as an expert told the BBC Today programme, it’s the information equivalent of highly-processed food - and I know what most readers of this newspaper will think of that. The Hesp Out West pages which appear every weekend in the Western Morning News and Western Daily Press were designed to be the antidote to anything that AI can offer. In other words, these articles are all about experiencing something first-hand, whether it’s a enjoying walk across a Westcountry hilltop, learning how to fillet a fish, or luxuriating on a Mediterranean cruise. The point being, that no robot is able to deliver a genuine account, because no robot will ever be sent out to experience such a thing. Not for a long time yet, anyway. All AI can do is borrow or steal from some real-life human experience that’s already been written about, and come up with some bland account of its own. I believe there will be an increasing need for the delivery of “authentic real-life experience” as time goes by, whether it’s by the written word, on radio or podcast, or via TV or Youtube. Humans want genuine input from other people, not ultra-processed or regurgitated information handed out by an AI powered conveyor-belt. A West Country Cider Experience No AI Could Replicate So when my friend James Crowden invited me to a special Westcountry lunch where rare vintage ciders and perrys were going to be tasted, I couldn’t possibly say no. No robot would ever be invited to such an event - certainly not until they invent one with the ability to taste and sniff. As its is, AI can only borrow what other people have said about a certain product and then make vague assumptions. I’ve just asked Google Gemini: “Describe the taste and complexities of a bottle of 2003 Bollhayes Cider…” It replies with a pretty reasonable: “It would likely have a full-bodied, rich, and dry flavour profile with notes of classic spicy and citrusy characteristics.” Note the “would likely”. It has searched online descriptions made at multiple vintage cider tastings - originally written by living, breathing, sipping, slurping, humans - and rounded them up to create a bland cover-all. Real Tasting Notes from Real People James jotted down a more specific observation of the 2003 cider we sampled last week: “Hefty tannins, now smoothed out after 20 years-plus. Almost smoky - a burnished bronze. Complex deep notes, with a strong hint of phenolics. Very dry. Just the right sort of medicine for a long slow lunch.” And a long slow lunch is exactly what we were enjoying at the Devon home of Alex Hill - for many years owner of the aforementioned Bollhayes Cider and also a legend in both craft cider, beer and even wine circles. And I mean legend, although Alex - a quietly spoken and charming man - would, in his modest way, detest such a description. The fact is that over 40 years ago he founded Vigo, a Devon-based company now widely regarded as the leading UK supplier of commercial cider making equipment. Vigo sells an extensive range of beer brewing and wine-making equipment. The learned Mr Hill is nowadays enjoying an active retirement, having sold the Bollhayes brand to a Devon family, which continues to make very good sparkling cider indeed. Vigo Ltd still based at Dunkeswell not far from Alex’s home, is now part of the Rawlings Group which supplies “carefully chosen equipment and consumables to drink producers”. Next door is Vigo Presses run by Paul Courteney which caters for small scale artisan cider makers. Meet the West Country's Leading Cider Experts Relevant to our special cider-tasting lunch last week was the fact that, having made the stuff for many years, Alex still has a few vintage bottles of Bollhayes - and it was most generous of him to open some of these at our tasting attended by a select handful of the nation’s top cider experts. Notably, Dr Andrew Lea, a leading tannin expert and chemist and a cider-maker from Oxfordshire. Andrew won his spurs while working at the now sadly defunct Long Ashton Cider research centre, a famous institution based just outside Bristol. He is author of the seminal tome, Craft Cider Making. We were also joined by Adam Wells, a dynamic young author who runs the much-acclaimed Insights on World Cider and Perry blog. Adam travels around the world sampling, writing about, and judging fermented drinks made from the fruit of orchards, so we were honoured to have him among our number. The same applies to Nick Pring, a well-known figure on the West Country cider-making scene - he used to run the Devon-based giant and now sadly-missed Whiteways Cider and also, later in his career, Green Valley Cider. James Crowden, arguably the most famous cider writer of them all (author of best-selling Cider Country and Ciderland, among other titles) helped organise the get-together, ably aided and abetted by his wife Carla (who turned out to have the most finely tuned nose and palette of us all). If you are enjoying this post, take a look at our article on Kingsbury Episcopi, Somerset's Cider Capital Rare Bottles and Their Complex Profiles Why an old reprobate like me was invited to join such learned luminaries, I have no idea, but at least my journalistic abilities allowed me to observe and prepare this article. The rare liquids we tasted were Bollhayes sparkling cider made in 1992, 1994, 2003, 2013 and 2020, as well as a 23 year-old Gloucestershire perry and one or two ciders and perries from Ukraine bottled before the present conflict. And when I say rare, the 1992 was the last bottle of its kind in the world. I’ll let James describe it… “Surprisingly lively and sparkling, even mantling in the glass, with good head and fruity nose after 33 years. Fresh as a daisy, brilliant. slight apricot. The last bottle now, alas, has gone.” Take a look at one of our other CIDER POSTS HERE As for the 1994… “Lost its fizz, but deep dark and complex, more like Madeira or an aged sherry. To be sipped gently by the fireside.” The Crowden take on the 2013… “A mere youngster compared to the others but still lively and very dry. Drink now!” James became even more effusive when it came to the 2001 sparkling perry Last Hurrah from Kevin Minchew in Gloucestershire and Tom Oliver in Herefordshire. “Moorcroft perry pears - aka Stinking Bishop, hand-picked from Gorse Hill. A rich smooth elegant drink fermented in whisky barrels then bottled a year later at Three Choirs Vineyard. Definitely a one off. Only 1,000 bottles made, now alas all gone. A hark back to the past when Herefordshire makers pioneered the aforesaid process now known as methode champenoise.” The Importance of Tannins in Traditional Cider Much of the talk touched upon the all-important tannins which are to be found in the kind of “grown up” drinks we were sampling. Why are they so important, I asked Andrew? “Because they provide a balance, a bitterness, or an astringency. They provide body,” he replied. “You find them in most liquid type foods, but they’re mostly associated with beverages. Certainly, Alex’s wonderful ciders have them and they are what makes these vintage drinks so special.” You can see another of our posts on cider by clicking here Andrew recalled the time when he was looking at tannins for a project designed to help improve commercial cider. “Unfortunately, the cider marketing people decided an easier route was to just tell the customers they didn’t like tannins and couldn’t have them. They did that because the lager boom was overtaking the UK at time and there are no tannins in lager. Or, at least, less than any other beer. So people were being weaned off tannins.” He added: “Today, the most interesting thing from the commercial point of view is how far can they develop the quality cider market? If at all? Because, I have to say, in my 50 years in the business there have been many false starts.” Can High-Quality Cider Survive in the UK Market? Which brings us to the most important question of all. Is there a future for such high quality traditionally-made local drinks in this country? I asked Nick Pring who was once described as “The Man Behind 200 Million Pints” when he was managing the Wimple team at Whiteways… “There is a bit of a renaissance happening in the commercial market,” he commented. “I’m not saying they’re all good - don’t just look at the labels in the supermarkets - it depends on who’s actually made the cider. “It is quite hard to break into the commercial market. It is much easier to make a good product than it is to sell a good product. Let’s hope that might change as young people get a taste of the finer ciders being made across this region nowadays.” Is Fine Cider Becoming Britain's Forgotten Luxury? I asked Adam Wells for his view on the cider renaissance. “You have to remember there’s barely even a handful of corporations dominating the cider market and, unfortunately in the UK, it can legally be made with just 35 percent juice, which can all be from concentrate. “That is an entirely different drink to the sort of thing we’ve been trying here. But there is a rise in what I’ve come to call ‘aspirational cider’, other people call it ‘fine cider’. There are more producers who want, not only make a full juice product, but one that showcases our incredible variety of apples. Cider experts in Alex Hill's garden in the Blackdown Hills “But there has to be what you might call high-value consumer perception,” he added. “So you stick it on a dinner table and your guest says… ‘Yeah, that looks like it’s something special!’. Fundamentally, cider is a fermented drink made from a particular fruit, just like wine. And, as wine and whisky shows, there is a market for the very best - people will pay for something very special - and if you are making one of the best ciders in the entire world why shouldn’t you ask a decent amount? “The only question is whether that can sustain orchard growers and also whether it gives the producer enough money. There’s enormous amount to be said for people pricing a drink relative to the effort they put in and to what they need to survive as a small business. Cider expert Adam Wells “Most quality ciders you see in 750 ml bottles in this country will start at around £8 or £10 and about £15. In some cases, they might go a little bit higher, but we’re really talking a very narrow range compared to wine - and I think, when you consider it’s a vintage product which can only be made once a year, then those are reasonable prices. All that’s needed it for people like you and me to convince consumers they’re worth it.” Well, I’m giving that a go here in these pages - you can also read Adam’s blog at https://cider-review.com - or even, if push comes to shove, get the AI robots to help you find the best of British ciders. FAQ section What is vintage cider? Vintage cider is made from a single year's apple harvest and is often matured for several years, allowing its flavours to develop much like fine wine. What makes Somerset cider different? Somerset cider is traditionally made using bittersweet cider apples, producing a drink with rich tannins, complex flavours and excellent ageing potential. Is cider like wine? Increasingly, yes. Many artisan producers treat cider much like wine, focusing on apple varieties, terroir and careful maturation rather than mass production. Can cider improve with age? High-quality traditional cider can mature beautifully over many years, developing more complex aromas and flavours. Who are Alex Hill and James Crowden? Alex Hill is a respected figure in the British cider industry, while James Crowden is a poet, historian and author of Ciderland, recognised for his knowledge of traditional cider culture. Where is Britain's cider heartland? The West Country—particularly Somerset and Devon—remains one of the world's great cider-producing regions, with centuries of orchard and cider-making tradition.

A Special Sunday Lunchtime in Southwest France Sunday lunchtime can be special. I don’t know why exactly, maybe it’s the way I’ve been brought up but I still regard this special time of the week as a moment to celebrate in some way. Which is why I was more than delighted to find myself heading towards one of the most beautiful villages in France one Sunday morning recently. Monpazier: A Perfectly Preserved Medieval Bastide Monpazier is considered one of the finest “bastides” in southwest France, and is pretty much perfectly preserved since its founding in 1284. Its arcaded square and grid of medieval streets embody the ideal model of a “planned village” which is basically what a Bastide is or was. Strolling around the streets of Monpazier feels like stepping straight into the Middle Ages. And during the new “Bastides Festival”, Monpazier hosts a ‘producers’ market’ on Sunday morning as well as a community luncheon served in the main central square. Designated one of the "Most Beautiful Villages of France" fortified Monpazier has remained almost untouched since its founding in 1284 – in the name of King Edward I of England. A Simple, Local Lunch in Monpazier Anyway, the much-looked-forward-to lunch was a delight. A very simple delight, but a delicious one. We had a mug of what I think was chestnut and cep soup - something that I make at home and one of my favourite soups in the world- which is saying something. This portion, served from a stall in the corner of the square, was a magnificent example of its kind. As was the accompanying plate of a single barbecued sausage, served with charcoal roasted potatoes and chestnuts. Very simple indeed. But truly superb. What Is a Bastide? 🏰 A bastide is a new town built in the Middle Ages (roughly between the 13th and 14th centuries) according to a specific, planned design. Planned Layout: They are instantly recognisable by their grid-like street pattern, arranged around a central open space. The Central Square: Every bastide has a main, rectangular place (square), often surrounded by covered walkways (arcades or corières). This square was the economic and social heart, hosting the market. Purpose: They were usually founded by agreement between local lords and the King of France or England to populate new areas, secure territory, and stimulate trade. In exchange for moving to the new town, residents were offered freedoms and civil rights not available in traditional feudal villages. In short, a bastide is a fortified market town built from scratch with a uniform, organised design during the mediaeval period. Domme and Monpazier are two of the most famous examples. Fact File: Visiting Monpazier & the Dordogne General Information:www.dordogne-perigord-tourisme.frBergerac Airport:https://www.bergerac.aeroport.fr/Domme villageMonpazier village FAQ section Where is Monpazier? Monpazier is a beautifully preserved medieval village in the Dordogne department of southwest France, around 40 km from Bergerac Airport. Why is Monpazier famous? Monpazier is regarded as one of the finest surviving bastide villages in France and is officially listed among Les Plus Beaux Villages de France (The Most Beautiful Villages of France). What is a bastide village? A bastide is a planned medieval town built during the 13th and 14th centuries around a central market square with a distinctive grid layout. Is Monpazier worth visiting? Absolutely. Visitors come for its beautifully preserved medieval streets, arcaded market square, historic buildings, artisan shops and excellent restaurants. How long should you spend in Monpazier? Most visitors allow half a day, but it's easy to spend a full day exploring the village, browsing markets and enjoying local Dordogne cuisine. What food should you try in Monpazier? The Dordogne is famous for duck confit, foie gras, walnuts, chestnuts, mushrooms, local cheeses and excellent regional wines. When is the best time to visit Monpazier? Spring and autumn are ideal for pleasant weather, while summer brings markets, festivals and outdoor dining. The Bastides Festival is a particular highlight.

Why the Fowey Hall Walk is One of Cornwall's Best Circular Walks I've had the pleasure of doing this hike half a dozen times myself, including once with a TV crew and all the heavy equipment. Recently, I've heard from many others who have enjoyed every scenic inch of this wonderful circular walk. Fowey Hall Walk Circular | Cornwall Coastal Walk to Lantic Bay & Polruan You could probably write a book about what makes a truly classic walk. And if you did, you might want to include a chapter titled: "Great Hikes that are as Varied as They are Beautiful." The Fowey, Bodinnick, Hall Walk, Pont Pill, Lantic Bay, and Polruan circular could claim pride of place in such a chapter. This walk has almost every type of view imaginable — save for craggy moorlands. Highlights of the Fowey Hall Walk There are not one, but two ferry rides — and there's something uniquely magical about combining a walk with being afloat, even if only for a short while. This walk offers quaint Cornish street scenes, some of the finest estuarine views in the region, beautiful ancient woodlands, forgotten quays, a historic church, open heaths, stunning coast path sections, and picturesque harbours lined with welcoming pubs. Is there any walker anywhere who could resist such an offering? I think not! So, let’s head to Fowey. This depth-of-winter period is a particularly good time to visit. In summer, Fowey's central car parks fill up fast, so it’s best to use the overflow car park a few hundred yards up from the Bodinnick Ferry. Even now, this is an ideal place to leave your vehicle, as the ferry takes us across to start our walk. Crossing the River Fowey by Ferry A small but powerful boat pushes the ferry across the river towards Bodinnick, where you’ll find the historic Old Ferry Inn and Ferryside, Daphne Du Maurier’s former home. The Old Ferry Inn might not win awards for originality in naming, but its charm and coziness make it a tempting stop — perhaps for another day, as we have more miles to cover! Walking the Famous Hall Walk The Hall Walk, Polruan Climbing up past the inn, look out for the signpost for Hall Walk on your right. This path winds along the top of oak woods towards Polruan at the estuary mouth, providing breathtaking views every few steps. You'll pass a war memorial and, as the path swings into Pont Pill, a stone marking the life of Sir Arthur Quiller Couch, a noted Cambridge professor and author who lived in Fowey. I once interviewed writer Tim Heald for an ITV Westcountry segment here. He shared stories of Quiller Couch, who would row across the river to climb to this very vantage point — a tradition that adds even more depth to an already splendid route. Pont Pill and Lanteglos Church Continuing to Pont Pill, the path leads you into the serene heart of rural Cornwall, despite being so close to the lively towns of Fowey and Polruan. It’s hard to believe this peaceful spot was once bustling with sailing ships, trading goods up and down the creek. Our next climb takes us due south to Lanteglos-by-Fowey Church, where we turn left to reach the National Trust car park up on the Polruan-Lansallos road. After a short walk along the lane, we’ll arrive at the coast path — the gateway to even more spectacular scenery. Coastal Delights: Lantic Bay & Polruan 🏖 One of the walk's highlights is the stunning section of coast near Lantic Bay. From here, the view is spectacular: Great and Little Lantic Bay lie below, two hidden coves that seem to encapsulate the best of the South Cornish coast. We head west, passing Blackbottle Rock and Washing Rocks, eventually descending to Polruan. As we reach the harbour, the famous old Blockhouse comes into view — a nod to the town's rich history. Finishing the Walk in Polruan and Fowey All that remainsng the Walk with a Pint 🍻 is to board the lower-ferry (foot passengers only) back to Fowey. While waiting, why not enjoy a pint at the Lugger Inn? After crossing the river, it’s a leisurely stroll through Fowey’s charming streets back to where our adventure began. Fact File 📏 Basic Walk: From Fowey across the Bodinnick Ferry, through Hall Walk to Pont Pill, over the hill past Lanteglos Church to Lantic Bay, and west to the lower ferry at Polruan, ending back through Fowey. Recommended Map: OS Explorer 107 St Austell and Liskeard. Distance and Difficulty: Four miles, easy-going. FAQ section How long is the Fowey Hall Walk? The classic Fowey Hall Walk circular is around four miles long and is generally considered an easy to moderate walk with several hills and two ferry crossings. Is the Fowey Hall Walk suitable for families? Yes. Many families enjoy the route, although some coastal sections and climbs may be challenging for very young children. Do you need to use ferries on the Hall Walk? Yes. The classic circular route includes the Bodinnick Ferry and the foot ferry between Polruan and Fowey. Is Lantic Bay worth visiting? Absolutely. Lantic Bay is one of Cornwall's most beautiful hidden beaches, with turquoise water, dramatic cliffs and magnificent views from the South West Coast Path. Where can you park for the Hall Walk? The most convenient parking is in Fowey, where several public car parks provide access to the Bodinnick Ferry and the start of the route. Is the Hall Walk open all year? Yes, although ferry timetables vary by season and the paths can become muddy after prolonged rain. Are there pubs on the walk? Yes. Both Fowey and Polruan have excellent pubs, cafés and restaurants, making this one of Cornwall's best pub walks.