Europe is getting hotter every summer, and many travellers are searching for cooler alternatives to overcrowded Mediterranean resorts. Denmark's Kystlandet offers beautiful beaches, fresh sea air, outstanding food and long Scandinavian evenings—making it one of Europe's finest coolcation destinations. For decades most Brits and northern Europeans have had a set notion that a vacation should include plenty of sun, sea and blue skies - which is why we’ve been flocking to the Med for the past 50 years. Now, though, endless heatwaves are making that concept look somewhat over-baked. Who wants to holiday in a place where you are forced to hide from the sun in body-sapping temperatures of over 40 degrees when you can have a Scandinavian coolcation? This article is part of our wider series on Scandinavian summer escapes. You can find the full collection in my Denmark Coolcation Hub. Not me, and most people I know who have passed the age of 40 would agree. What do you do in a full-on Mediterranean heatwave? You can only spend so many hours trying to keep cool in the sea or pool, the rest of the time you’re panting around trying to find a bit of shade or breeze. Best not even mention the horror of being evacuated because of forest fires. Why More Travellers Are Choosing Coolcations I am not alone in thinking that some more northerly coastal locations - which have in the past never really had a look-in with summer holidaymakers - could become popular thanks to climate change. Indeed, I joined a group from the British Guild of Travel Writers (BGTW) recently to explore just such a place. Its name, Kystlandet, is Danish for Coastal Land - an interesting corner of the littoral located on Jutland’s eastern (Baltic) shoreline. Where is Denmark's Kystlandet? It is a very pleasant area indeed, in my opinion. Sparsely populated low hills and farmlands surround a massive inlet or fjord which boasts several inhabited islands. Small towns and attractive villages are dotted here and there, but there’s no massive industry or burgeoning urban centre to spoil the peace and quiet of the place. What Makes Kystlandet Different? And there are hardly any tourists. We were there in late August and on many of the rural drives, bike rides, ferry crossings or country walks we did not see any other visitors at all. We swam in a surprisingly warm sea, we strolled through silent and seemingly endless forests, we stayed in a bustling but pleasant little seaport town and we sailed to tiny islands - and not once did we get the idea that we had joined some new heatwave-and-forest-fire-avoidance boom in tourism. Beaches Without the Crowds Perhaps this visit by a gang of travel writers might help spark the beginning of such a boom. I wouldn’t be surprised. For a start Jutland - that large section of the Danish landmass which points north - is quick and easy to reach from the UK. You can go by train or car, taking the Eurostar to Amsterdam and an express service onwards to Denmark, or put your vehicle on a North Sea ferry. We flew to Billund Airport on a budget airline from Stansted on a quick flight. It took an hour - no sooner had we gone up, we were coming down. Walking and Cycling Along Denmark's Coast From Billund (of Lego Land fame) it’s a half-hour drive to Horsens, the harbour town which could be described as the capital of Kystlandet. We stayed at the wonderful and classy four-star Jørgensens Hotel (once known as the Lichtenberg Palace), an historic building situated right in the centre of one of the oldest cities in Denmark. Being a country-boy who lives out in the sticks, I loved staying in the heart of this quiet, well-mannered community and hugely enjoyed being able to wander around the open air bars and eateries of an evening on this northern Europe holiday. The only thing I didn’t like about Horsens was being thrown into prison! The old Horsens State Penitentiary is one of the most famous (or infamous) jails in all of Denmark - and before you get any ideas about a West Country journalist falling foul of the law, please note that the Danish authorities have spent great deal of money converting this grim and claustrophobic edifice into an award-winning museum. Dining at the classy four-star Jørgensens Hotel, Food, Seafood and Danish Hygge I am not surprised it has won so many tourism accolades - a visit really does give you an idea of what it must have been like to have been locked away in such a bleak place for countless years - or indeed, what it must have been like to attempt escaping from such a hell. If I am honest, it wasn’t an experience I wanted to dwell upon - however, some of my travel writing colleagues loved every minute of it - including the rather nauseating trip back to town in an authentic prison-van. I discovered they were big fans of “Scandi-noir” TV series and so enjoyed seeing the place where all those moody murderers may have ended up. The marina at Horsens, I am more of a fresh-air lover, so I very much preferred our adventure the next morning which took us to a delightful little coastal village on the edge of a large forest where local guide Kirsten Aagaard made us a delightful traditional Danish breakfast before taking us on a ten kilometre hike through the woodlands she knows so well. Most of the walk took us along tracks which make up the 52-kilometre long Fjordmino trail - a wonderful right-of-way which more-or-less circumnavigates the large Horsens Fjord. Horsens waterfront area The trail passes through forests, fields and idyllic villages - it runs across causeways to visit busy marinas and charming harbours - and it climbs to low ridges and hilltops to offer stunning panoramas. It also takes the occasional small ferry so that you can visit inhabited islands which lie within the fjord. As I say, Kirsten - a wonderful and informative guide who made us a truly memorable traditional Danish breakfast - took us on a three hour stroll through the most wooded and, arguably, scenic part of the trail. It took all ten kilometres to walk that big breakfast off, but soon we were eating again - this time at a traditional Danish country inn called Sandvad Kro where we were served the local speciality, “tarteletter”, which is a kind of giant vol-au-vent. The puff pastry shells are filled with a creamy mixture of chicken, peas, and carrots. It’s a Danish classic, but they are particularly fond of tarteletter in Jutland where they’re served on special occasions and at family gatherings. And then there was more in the way of physical excursion. This time, e-biking through the lovely countryside of the Bakkelandet - the area around the Gudenå river - a land of small lakes, forests, and some of Denmark’s highest peaks (by which I mean 600 foot hills). Our guide, Heidi Holm from Holmely E-Bike Tours, took us along a wonderful old narrow-gauge railway which has been converted to a 60-kilometre cycling trail. I love e-biking, but hate cycling on busy roads - so for me this really was a wonderful ride through lovely, empty countryside. Our destination was The Uncovered Bridge, which is one of Denmark’s favourite tourist sites. Strange term “uncovered bridge”… I learned that after the railway closed, a large earthen dam was built across the lovely Gudenå river, and as the engineers erected this large obstacle, so they buried the old railway bridge under thousands of tonnes of rubble. Just under a decade ago, it was decided to reveal the glorious example of early Danish bridge-building which, for 85 years, had been entombed. A fine bridge it is too - albeit one that nowadays has the much easier task of coping with bicycles rather than steam trains. On another day we took the ferry to the isolated island of Tunø in the East Jutland Archipelago. Cars are banned from this isle, with its beautiful and unspoiled countryside. We did what a great many visitors do when they arrive at small islands - we found the coastal path and spent three very happy hours strolling around Tunø’s handsome shores. Which meant we were more than ready to enjoy lunch at the Røgeriet Tunø (the Tunø smokehouse) - and what a wonderful al-fresco meal it was, right next to the harbour-side. Who needs a Greek taverna on the shores of the Aegean when you can enjoy the products of a traditional smokehouse in the Baltic? Our last night was spent at the Borre Knob Hotel - a hidden gem located on a narrow peninsula in Horsens Fjord. We arrived after one of the best dinners I’ve ever had (at Ji-Mi’s in the centre of Horsens where we enjoyed a ten-course “holistic gourmet experience”), so it was well and truly dark when I eventually clambered to my room. Which might help explain my confusion the next morning when I marvelled at the watery view from my balcony, only to discover there was yet another view of the sea awaiting me on the opposite side of the building. It’s the only hotel I know with a beach on both sides. The next day we went island-hopping in true Greek style - only these were flat and wonderfully moody Danish islets, which reminded me of the haunting essence of the Ingmar Bergman movies I used to watch years ago. Our first port of call was the small island of Hjarnø, just 500 metres from the mainland with a population of 150. The island has a special place in Viking history, as well as one of the smallest churches in Denmark. We called at the Det Grafiske Magasin - a tiny arts workshop run by artist Jane Willumsgaard, who made us wonderful and restorative coffees so that we could continue our walking tour. Then it was time for another boat ride - this time aboard the “bicycle ferry” to the island Alrø. And why were we visiting this next isle? I will tell you… Because we were booked in at a remarkable restaurant that specialises in dishes made from locally farmed bison meat. I can tell you that bison makes a world beating burger. So… A whirlwind tour and taste of Denmark’s Coastal Land. A cool new coastal destination in the making perhaps. I use the word “cool” advisedly. In my book it’s much better to be cool than to be so horribly hot you can barely be bothered to think. We travelled to Kystlandet as a guest of VisitDenmark - Twitter: @GoVisitDenmark, Instagram: @GoVisitDenmark. Airport parking was provided by I Love Meet and Greet - www.ilovemeetandgreet.co.uk Frequently Asked Questions About Visiting Denmark's Kystlandet Frequently Asked Questions About Kystlandet, Denmark What is Kystlandet in Denmark? Kystlandet is a coastal region on the eastern side of Jutland, centred around Horsens Fjord and extending across a landscape of beaches, forests, small towns and islands. Why is Kystlandet a good coolcation destination? Kystlandet offers the things many people want from a summer holiday — beaches, swimming, walking, cycling and outdoor dining — without the extreme temperatures increasingly experienced in parts of southern Europe. What are the best things to do in Kystlandet? Walking the Fjordmino trail, cycling through the countryside, visiting Horsens, exploring the islands of Tunø, Hjarnø and Alrø, enjoying the beaches and sampling local Danish food are among the highlights. Can you visit Kystlandet without a car? Yes. Kystlandet can be reached by public transport, while ferries connect several of the islands. However, a car gives visitors considerably more freedom to explore the rural countryside and scattered coastal attractions. When is the best time to visit Kystlandet? Late spring and summer are particularly attractive, when the days are long and the weather is generally suitable for walking, cycling, swimming and exploring the coastline. What are the best things to do in Kystlandet? Popular activities include: Walking the coastal trails Cycling through the countryside Visiting charming harbour towns Relaxing on sandy beaches Exploring Viking and medieval history Sampling fresh seafood Kayaking and paddleboarding Discovering local art galleries and museums How do you get to Kystlandet from the UK? Most visitors fly into Aarhus or Billund Airport before continuing by hire car or public transport. It's also possible to travel by rail and ferry for those wanting a lower-carbon journey through northern Europe. Further Reading: Discover More of Denmark If you're planning a trip to Denmark, you might also enjoy these articles: 👉 Why Denmark Is So Happy – And Why Aarhus Might Be Europe's City of Smiles https://www.martinhespfoodandtravel.com/post/why-denmark-is-so-happy-and-why-aarhus-might-be-europe-s-city-of-smiles 👉 How to Travel Denmark in Comfort: A Guide to Hygge, Transport and Easy Touring https://www.martinhespfoodandtravel.com/post/how-to-travel-denmark-in-comfort-a-guide-to-hygge-transport-and-easy-touring 👉 What Denmark Can Teach Us About Sustainable Food https://www.martinhespfoodandtravel.com/post/what-denmark-can-teach-us-about-sustainable-food 👉 Exploring the Tranquil Charms of Alrø Island in Horsens Fjord https://www.martinhespfoodandtravel.com/post/exploring-the-tranquil-charms-of-alr%C3%B8-island-in-horsens-fjord-denmark

Discovering the Danish Happiness Factor Year after year, Denmark ranks near the top of the World Happiness Report, a global survey examining wellbeing across 140+ countries. In the most recent rankings, Denmark came second only to Finland, while the UK landed a less cheerful 23rd. But why? What makes this cool, windy, northern European nation so content? As mentioned in last week's feature on Skagen’s artist colony, I decided to explore the question of Danish happiness further, especially while visiting Aarhus, the nation’s second city and a place often dubbed the City of Smiles. This article is part of my wider series on Scandinavian summer escapes. You can find the full collection in my Denmark Coolcation Hub. Is Aarhus Really One of the Happiest Places in Europe? Absolutely. I’d go so far as to say Aarhus was one of the happiest places I’ve ever visited. In fact, I even mentioned in a post that I wouldn't mind living there – quite a statement coming from someone who usually avoids cities. From the moment we arrived during a sunny heatwave and headed out for dinner, we were surrounded by crowds of cheerful people filling the city’s intricate streets. The vibe was unmistakable: joyful, relaxed, and welcoming. Boutique Charm at Hotel Villa Provence Our base was the charming Hotel Villa Provence, one of the best boutique hotels in Denmark. With fans like Sandi Toksvig and recent guest Sting, this French-inspired retreat offers stylish rooms, courtyard charm, and a renowned organic breakfast. Located right in the city centre, it's an oasis of calm in a vibrant town. Dining Happiness in the Latin Quarter That first evening, dinner at Restaurant Mefisto added to our joy. Tucked into the lively Latin Quarter, the menu offered standout dishes like white asparagus in vibrant sauce and roasted monkfish cheeks – simple, honest and utterly delicious. Exploring a Walkable and Youthful City Aarhus is a walkable city filled with life, partly thanks to its large student population. Guided by the excellent Anne Margrethe, I explored both the cobbled charm of the Latin Quarter and the newly developed waterfront district. The modern Aarhus Ø Lighthouse – Denmark’s tallest building at 468 feet – provides a panoramic view of the city, harbour, and surrounding fjords, accessible via a high-speed lift. Street Food and Sensible Spending Aarhus may be in expensive Denmark, but smart spending and local insight can make it surprisingly affordable. We lunched at the vibrant Aarhus Street Food Centre, housed in an old bus station and offering over 30 kitchens and bars. My Mexican meal cost just over £10. Across from our hotel, we found excellent happy hour beer for £3.50 a pint – a far cry from the £10 price tag tourists fear. Travel writer Martin Hesp enjoys a beer in Aarhus Must-See: ARoS Art Museum and the Old Town Museum The ARoS Museum of Art is one of Scandinavia’s top galleries, famous for its rooftop "Rainbow Panorama". This summer's exhibition, “Picasso, Miró, Léger and the Many Voices of Modernism”, is not to be missed. Nearby, the extraordinary Den Gamle By (The Old Town Museum) is a living open-air museum that recreates Danish life from 1600 to the 1970s. Its immersive experience brings history to life through authentic architecture and period settings. Roberta’s Society – A New Cultural Concept One of our favourite surprises was dinner at Roberta’s Society, a newly opened hybrid space in a former 1930s library. With options from communal dorms to deluxe rooms, live music, yoga, talks, and communal meals, it’s a modern social hub. And yes, the pork chop sandwich was delicious – and affordable at £10. Experiencing Danish Hygge in Aarhus You’ll often hear the term hygge in Denmark – a concept of comfort, conviviality, and contentment. You can feel it everywhere in Aarhus, from cosy corners in museums to shared laughter on sunny streets. If I had to describe Aarhus in just two words, they’d be comfortable conviviality – the very essence of hygge, and perhaps, the secret to Danish happiness. If you've enjoyed this post take a look at our travel feature on Skagen by clicking here Planning Your Trip to Aarhus With direct flights from Stansted to Aarhus (approx. 1h 45min via Ryanair), this happy city is an easy weekend escape. Fact File: Visiting Aarhus ARoS Museum of Art: 5 galleries + Rainbow Panorama | Tickets: ~£22 Den Gamle By (Old Town Museum): Experience 17th–20th century Danish life | Tickets: ~£23.50 | Allow 4–5 hours Hotel Villa Provence: Boutique stay in city centre | Rooms from £230/night Flights: Direct from London Stansted to Aarhus (Ryanair) Street Food: Aarhus Street Food Centre – 30+ kitchens in an old bus terminal Budget Tip: Happy hour beers for £3.50, wine for £5/glass Roberta’s Society: Midweek 2-night stay for two: £90 | Dorm beds from £20 Frequently Asked Questions About Aarhus and Denmark Why is Denmark considered one of the happiest countries in the world? Denmark consistently ranks among the world's happiest countries, with factors such as social trust, security, work-life balance, equality and quality of life often cited as contributing to Danish wellbeing. Why is Aarhus called the City of Smiles? Aarhus has long been known as the City of Smiles, a nickname dating back to a 1938 tourism campaign promoting Aarhus as the “City of Summer and Smiles”. Is Aarhus worth visiting? Yes. Aarhus is compact and walkable, with attractions including ARoS Aarhus Art Museum, Den Gamle By, the Latin Quarter and the modern waterfront. Its location also makes it easy to combine a city break with beaches, forests and other outdoor attractions. What is hygge in Denmark? Hygge is a Danish idea associated with comfort, conviviality and enjoying simple pleasures, often in relaxed surroundings with friends, family, food or drink. Is Aarhus expensive to visit? Denmark is generally an expensive country by British standards, but Aarhus offers plenty of ways to control costs, including street food, cafés, free outdoor attractions and reasonably priced casual dining.

Discovering Skagen: Denmark's Land's End Sometimes you find yourself enjoying a journey that you’ve decided to take for the most obscure of reasons. Such was the case with me as I strolled around a rather extraordinary seaside town, being almost blinded by the unusually bright natural light for which the place is famous. Which, in itself, provides a clue as to why I was visiting the very northern tip of Denmark. It all began a few months ago when I attended a special conference on the future of food at the Danish Embassy in London. A tourism official said something that inspired my visit to his country’s version of Land’s End. Skagen and the Newlyn Connection: Northern Denmark’s Plein-Air Artist Colony “So you’ve come up from the West Country? I’ve been reading all about the Newlyn School of Artists - did you know Denmark had a similar group of painters? An entire movement of ‘plein-air’ artists who descended on an area in the late 1800s because of its special quality of light - just like the English painters who went west to Newlyn. A painting by Anna Ancher This article is part of my wider series on Scandinavian summer escapes. You can find the full collection in my Denmark Coolcation Hub. Geography and Natural Light: Why Skagen Attracts Artists and Travellers Alike I was to discover that there are a lot more similarities on my journey to northern Denmark. The geographic set up, for a start. The Skagen peninsula is similar to West Cornwall in that it juts out into the sea, hence all that bright oceanic light - only its progression into the waves is more extreme. If you look at a map you will see what looks like a single thin hair protruding from the very top of the head of the large Jutland peninsula. This narrow spit of land (or sand, to be precise) extends into the Kattegat and Skagerrak straits. It is an unusual landscape, shaped by wind and sand. Extensive dune systems, some stabilised by marram grass and pine plantations, characterise much of the terrain. A specialised flora and fauna has evolved to cope with the sandy, nutrient-poor conditions. The white sand, by the way, adds to the extreme quality of the light. The sandy beach leading out to the Grenen, Denmark's most northerly point Visiting Grenen: Where Two Seas Meet at Denmark’s Northernmost Point Right out towards the tip you come to Skagen, a town which evolved around fishing and its strategic location. It might be the most remote part of Denmark but, in times when overland transport was difficult and slow, the area found itself at what passed for a motorway junction of early shipping routes. An extremely dangerous junction… Where two seas meet - the very northern tip of Denmark The sand-spit ends just north-east of town in a wild and lovely area called Grenen, but actually continues for miles out into the sea as an underwater reef, a fact which claimed a vast number of ships back in sailing days. Walking out to the very tip is a kind of pilgrimage for Danish people - thousands do it every day and the idea is that you can put one foot into the Kattegat Sea and the other into the Skagerrak. Seafood restaurants in Skagen's harbour area Life on the Edge: Fishing, Shipwrecks, and Skagen’s Cosmopolitan Past For centuries the hardy folk who lived here relied on fishing and whatever they could glean from shipwrecks to keep them fed and housed. Quite literally. Many of the old homes in the town and peninsula contain parts of wooden ships. Unlike some “wreckers” we know about in the West Country, these people were keen to save the lives of stricken sailors, many of whom ended up living in town for extended periods. So it always was a cosmopolitan sort of place, despite its remoteness. Staying at Plesners Badehotel: Historic Charm in the Heart of Skagen So, a truly fascinating location. I’ve never really been anywhere quite like it. We spent half of last week up in those windswept northerly climes, enjoying the endless bright sunshine, the sea-views and the first class hospitality. Seafood restaurants in Skagen's harbour area We stayed at the excellent Plesners Badehotel, one of the oldest and largest, right in the heart of town - a stone’s throw from the busy harbour and central pedestrian streets. I got to know head chef, Ronni Sørensen, a well-known Skawbo (someone born and bred in Skagen) and all-round good fellow whose career has seen him fishing at sea and behind the stoves. Ronni’s unique cooking style combines the best of French and Nordic cuisine and, needless to say, he really knows how to handle the local caught seafood. Travel writer Martin Hesp with chef Ronni Sørensen Blink Restaurant: Lighthouse Dining and Nordic Simplicity Danish cooking is not a million miles from the best of modern British cuisine - clean and bright, not too heavy, and with much emphasis on local and seasonal ingredients. An exemplar of this trend is a young woman who runs a small restaurant at the foot of the old lighthouse at Grenen. Matilde Grue is owner and head chef at the aptly named Blink restaurant - at present she only opens for lunch and serves a choice of just three basic dishes, all of which feature the very freshest veg. We had the best fish cakes I’ve ever tasted there. The lighthouse at Skagen plays host to the Blink Restaurant Ruth’s Hotel and the Cider Revolution in Denmark A couple of miles in the other direction, at Skagen’s answer to a seaside resort on the sand-spit’s north coast, Ruth’s Hotel is a famous Danish institution much beloved by wealthier Copenhagers who think nothing of motoring the six hours north to dine their way through a beachside weekend. We had a wonderful dinner there (including one of the best Bloody Marys I’ve ever had) and the next day we lunched just 100 metres away at the Sømærket wine and cider bar. I asked the question: “Cider bar? Why cider? I have never seen it in Denmark and didn’t know it was a Danish thing?” After which we spent a highly informative and delicious hour talking with a young man called Karl-Emil Sams, who leases the place from Ruth’s and who owns another restaurant in the main town. Cider might not be a Danish thing quite yet, but soon will be. The country is at the very beginning of a cider boom. Karl-Emil Sams: The Man Behind Denmark’s Emerging Cider Scene Meet Karl-Emil Sams: The Man Behind Denmark’s Emerging Cider Scene “Denmark has always been known for its lager style beer, but some of us started looking at all the different apple varieties that grow here. There are literally hundreds and some are sharp and not really edible - so a few of us started trying to make cider with them.” With that Karl-Emil poured me a glass of fizzing amber liquid he’d made with his brother, and it was fantastic. So good, it would definitely win prizes at major UK cider competitions. WHY NOT CHECK OUT OUR FEATURE ON THE CITY OF AARHUS - CLICK HERE Brøndums Hotel: Skagen’s Culinary and Cultural Icon I won’t be forgetting Karl-Emil’s cider, nor will I forget the outstanding multi-course dinner I enjoyed at Brøndums Hotel, which really is one of the most famous hostelries in Denmark. Famous, not only for its amazing food (my five course tasting menu featured what were arguably some of the best and most classic dishes I’ve eaten this year), but also for its long and fascinating history. One tale concerns Anna Ancher, whose work will feature at the Dulwich Gallery from November until March. The story goes that the writer Hans Christian Andersen was staying at Brøndums which, at the time, was run by Anna’s family. Apparently he complained about a meal (something he certainly wouldn’t do nowadays) and this upset Anna’s pregnant mother so much she went into labour a month early... Anna Ancher and the Skagen Painters Anna, resultant child, began life small and weak, so she was raised in a more indulgent way than had been the case with her three siblings. When she wanted to paint and draw she was allowed to do so, and she began to show a distinct talent. The Anna Ancher House at Skagen The rest is history. She married artist Michael Ancher, and was in an ideal position to welcome the artists who were heading north to her remote area in the late 1800s. They migrated partly for the light, but also to escape age-old conventional practices being taught at the establishment art schools in places like Copenhagen. You can visit the beautifully preserved house in which Anna lived, and just across the road you’ll find the impressive Skagens Museum, founded in 1908 in order to collect and preserve the works of the Skagen artist colony and present them in the environment in which they were created. Its galleries are a delight - as is the town’s other major museum, the Kystmuseet, which shows the way in which people used to live in these strange parts. Final Thoughts: Why Skagen Should Be On Your Northern European Travel List In a nutshell, I very much enjoyed a stay in this Scandinavian version of the West Country. Skagen is an extraordinary place, well worth visiting if you’re ever heading north to avoid the onslaught of summer heatwaves. Travel Info – Getting to Skagen Martin flew direct from Stansted to Aarhus with Ryanair, then drove north to Skagen (approx. 2h 40m). More info: Visit Denmark Enjoy Nordjylland Stansted Airport Parking: Martin parked with APH.com – from £110/week in June–July. Why is Skagen famous? Skagen is famous for its remarkable natural light, its historic fishing community, the Skagen painters and Grenen, the northernmost point of Denmark where the Kattegat and Skagerrak meet. What is there to see in Skagen? Highlights include Grenen, Skagens Museum, the former homes of the Skagen painters, Kystmuseet, the harbour and the town's historic hotels and restaurants. Why did artists go to Skagen? Artists began travelling to Skagen in the late 19th century, attracted by its distinctive light, landscape and fishing community. The resulting artists' colony became known as the Skagen Painters. Can you stand in two seas at once in Skagen? At Grenen, the northern tip of the Skagen peninsula, the Kattegat and Skagerrak meet. Visitors can walk to the point where the two bodies of water converge. Is Skagen worth visiting? Yes. Skagen combines beaches and dramatic coastal scenery with art, history, museums, seafood and a distinctive Danish cultural heritage. For more dispatches from Jutland, island-hopping in Kystlandet, and Danish food culture, explore my comprehensive Denmark Coolcation & Travel Guide.

Travel writer Martin Hesp high in the Jungfrau, Switzerland Too often, Switzerland is reduced to a glossy winter cliché: an expensive playground of high-altitude ski slopes, five-star chalets, and eye-watering lift passes. While the snow and the peaks are spectacular, the true soul of the country lies in its quiet depths. It is found in the extraordinary pride of its regional communities, its remarkable railway engineering that carves through solid rock, its living farming traditions, and cultural gatherings that celebrate centuries of alpine identity. Whether witnessing 80-kilo boulders hurled across an arena in Interlaken, following Dartmoor hill farmers high into the Simmental to understand the miracle of the 40-cow dairy, retracing Sherlock Holmes’s fateful duel at Reichenbach Falls with bowler-hatted enthusiasts, or crossing the Rhine on an engineless ferry, Switzerland is best enjoyed when you look beyond the luxury ski brochures. Here is my complete collection of Swiss journeys, covering traditional culture, legendary railways, historic inns, winter magic, and regional food heritage. 1. True "Swissness" & Living Culture Unravelling the Unspunnen Held only once every twelve years in Interlaken, the Unspunnen Swiss people taking part in the Unspunnen, held once every 12 years fest is the ultimate celebration of Swiss identity. A look at the sheer spectacle of traditional stone-hurling, Schwingen (alpine wrestling), alphorn symphonies, and a community spirit rarely matched anywhere in Europe. Mountain cattle taking part in the Unspunnen, Switzerland In Switzerland with the Sherlockians: Reichenbach Falls Joining members of the Sherlock Holmes Society of London on a pilgrimage to Meiringen and the thunderous Reichenbach Falls—the precipitous spot where Conan Doyle famously sent his consulting detective tumbling into history. Sherlock Holmes Society on the Jungfrau Visiting Switzerland with Dartmoor Farmers Travelling to the Simmental Valley with West Country agrarians to explore Alpculture—discovering how alpine farmers produce world-class cheeses from small 40-cow herds and sustain the mountain landscape. Dartmoor farmers in Switzerland 2. Iconic Railways & Mountain Passes Switzerland’s railway network is one of the great engineering triumphs of the modern world, connecting tranquil valleys to the highest glaciers with seamless precision. Jungfrau – To the Top of Europe by Train Riding the mountain railway directly through the interior rock of the Eiger and Mönch to reach the Sphinx Observatory and the frozen sea of the Aletsch Glacier at 3,454 metres. The Bernina Express: One of the World’s Greatest Train Journeys Traversing the Rhaetian Railway over soaring stone viaducts, through hairpin loops, and past glaciers on this UNESCO World Heritage railway link between Switzerland and Italy. Bernina Express crosses a rail bridge in the Swiss mountains Railroad to Andermatt: The Heart of the Swiss Alps A scenic rail route climbing into the Urseren Valley and the historic crossroads of Andermatt, where ancient mountain passes meet modern alpine architecture. The Andermatt Pass 3. Alpine Escapes, St Moritz & Mountain Slopes Beyond the glitz, the high mountain cantons offer pristine light, frozen lakes, and classic winter sports. St Moritz & The High Engadine Exploring the Engadine valley, famous for its sparkling 'champagne climate', wide alpine lakes, and dramatic contrasts between glamorous resorts and ancient Romanesque villages. St Moritz Lucerne and the Surrounding Swiss Mountains Combining the charm of Lake Lucerne with excursions into the surrounding mountain peaks, including Mount Pilatus and the high ridges of Central Switzerland. Learning to Ski at Laax A first-hand look at taking to the slopes in the Graubünden region, exploring the vast interconnected ski arena of Flims, Laax, and Falera. High up at Laax, 4. Historic Hotels & Timeless Heritage Swiss Historic Hotels: 5 Extraordinary Places to Stay A rail journey across the country staying at celebrated heritage properties—including the lakeside Hotel Wilden Mann in Lucerne, the high-altitude Grimsel Hospiz, and Edward Whymper’s climbing headquarters at Hotel Monte Rosa in Zermatt. v 5. Cities, Waterways & Winter Festivals Discover the Magic of European Christmas Markets in Switzerland Chasing real alpine snow and centuries-old Yuletide traditions across Geneva’s lakeside Noël au Quai, Bern’s medieval arcades, and Basel’s historic squares. The Zytglogge Clock Tower and Einstein's Apartment, Berne A private look inside Berne’s 1530 astronomical clock mechanism, followed by a visit to the Kramgasse rooms where Einstein developed his theory of relativity. Lilu Light Festival: The Winter Magic of Lucerne Lucerne bathed in dynamic January light shows, where medieval facades and baroque church interiors become canvases for international artists. Engineless Foot Ferries Cross the Rhine in Basel The historic wooden Fähri that glide across the swift Rhine using only a single overhead steel cable and the natural force of the river current. 6. Alpine Flavours & Culinary Traditions Emmental Cheese: History, Heritage and How to Make It Visiting the rolling hills of the Emme Valley to discover the science of cheese "eyes" and the strict craftsmanship behind authentic Swiss Emmental . Swiss Salad Dressing Secret: The Alpine Winter Salad Revolution Uncovering why Swiss winter salads taste so distinct—from Lucerne's riverside market greens to the alpine technique of blending hot vegetable bouillon into dressings. Following in the Footsteps of Mark Twain in Switzerland Prose and poetry retracing the footsteps of Mark Twain across Lake Lucerne, Vitznau, and Mount Rigi.

Denmark might not be the most dramatically beautiful country on Earth. You will find no towering Alpine peaks here, no thundering waterfalls, nor the sun-baked, olive-scented drama of the Mediterranean. Yet despite the absence of sheer geographical spectacle, it remains one of my favourite places in the world to visit Which is why I have visited the country so many times in the past 10 years. Much of that comes down to an infectious feel-good factor and that famous, untranslatable Danish ethos: hygge. It is a country intimately shaped by the sea - a civilised, low-lying tapestry of gentle rolling countryside, windswept sandy spits, quiet fjords, and cycle-friendly towns where life moves at a delightfully relaxed pace. With southern European summers becoming increasingly stifling, a growing number of holidaymakers are turning their gaze northwards in search of the ‘coolcation’. For my money, nowhere does the summer retreat quite like Denmark. Whether you are seeking gentle sea breezes on car-free islands, fascinating ancient history, or world-class coastal cooking, it offers an almost perfect antidote to the frantic modern world. Below is a curated collection of my dispatches, destination guides, and food features from across Denmark. 1. The Great Denmark Coolcation Guide & Island Escapes If you want to dodge scorching Mediterranean heatwaves and experience the unhurried charm of Scandinavian coastal life, the region of Kystlandet ('Coastal Land') south of Aarhus and its surrounding archipelago are hard to beat. Tuno Island, Denmark: Discover the car free island time forgot A journey to one of Denmark’s most peaceful, car-free coastal havens—a gentle three-hour walk around its windswept perimeter, charming timbered cottages, and an unforgettable lunch of freshly smoked fish at the harbourside smokehouse. Exploring the Tranquil Charms of Alrø Island in Horsens Fjord Taking the small bicycle ferry across to Alrø—an idyllic day of 13th-century stone churches, coastal reed beds, and locally reared bison burgers at Alrø Købmandsgaard. Escape Europe's Heatwaves: Why Denmark's Kystlandet is the Ultimate Coolcation Exploring sandy shores, peaceful woodland trails, and island-hopping across East Jutland with fellow members of the British Guild of Travel Writers. Why Denmark Is So Happy – And Why Aarhus Might Be Europe's City of Smiles A midsummer exploration of Denmark’s vibrant second city, investigating why the Danes consistently top the world’s happiness tables and how that relaxed contentment rubs off on the visitor. How to Travel Denmark in Comfort: A Guide to Hygge, Transport and Easy Touring Practical advice on navigating Denmark at an easy pace, from efficient rail links and scenic coastal drives to embracing the art of slow travel. 2. Wild Coasts, Artists & Viking Heritage Beneath Denmark's tranquil surface lies a deep seafaring history and wild, windswept fringes that have inspired painters, seafarers, and storytellers for centuries. Home of the Vikings Delving into Scandinavia’s maritime roots, exploring the historic coastal strongholds, burial mounds, and sacred sites that shaped the Viking world. Skagen, Denmark: Artists, Light and Nordic Cuisine at the Edge of Europe Journeying to the very northern tip of Jutland, where two seas collide and an extraordinary luminous light gave birth to Denmark’s most famous 19th-century artist colony. 3. The Nordic Table: From Harbourside Smokehouses to Capital Dining While the feel-good coastal rhythm is the initial draw in our Denmark Coolcation Guide, its food culture provides the lasting memory. The culinary revolution sparked by the New Nordic movement reaches far beyond high-end Copenhagen tasting menus into rural farmsteads and island smokehouses. Copenhagen Cuisine Exploring how the global impact of Noma has elevated everyday dining across the capital—from elevated smørrebrød to casual burgers at Popl in Christianshavn. Coastal Cuisine in Skagen: Northern Denmark's Fresh Approach to Food Fresh fish warehouses, classic dining at Brøndums and Ruth's Hotel, and discovering pioneering craft cider makers at Sømærket. Enjoying Food in the Danish Region of Kystlandet A celebration of East Jutland’s regional pantry: harbourside dining, rich dairy pastures, farm-to-table traditions, and artisan cheeses. A Taste of Policy: What Denmark Can Teach the UK About Food & Health Dispatches from the Danish Embassy on organic public food procurement and how sustainable national food policy can transform public health.

A young seal in Watchet Harbour recently reminded me of Lundy Island, the remote granite island off the North Devon coast where one of the largest seal colonies in the Bristol Channel can be found. I've visited Lundy many times over the years, and few places in the West Country have left such a vivid impression on me. When it comes to watching sunsets nothing - anywhere - beats the lantern plate in the glass crown of Old Light perched 100 feet above the granite crags of Lundy Island. You can see the flickering beams of 21 other lighthouses around the Atlantic Approaches, you can see the coasts of Wales, Somerset, Devon and Cornwall. This is the most extraordinary room-with-a-view in England. Except, of course, it isn't England - it's Lundy and here, on Devonshire's answer to the Outer Hebrides, anything and everything is just that little bit different. I've written a more detailed guide to walking around Lundy Island here. I was on Lundy several years ago covering the centenary commemorations marking the sinking of the massive HMS Montagu, and having filed my copy by midday I took the opportunity to walks as much of the island as I could before climbing aboard the Oldenburg for the return trip. Most people who travel out to Lundy attempt the circumnavigation of this three mile long, half-mile wide, lump of rock located where the tide races of the Bristol Channel meet the Atlantic. The first thing all visitors to Lundy must do after disembarking from the ship, is climb the steep track from the new landing jetty. Basically, Lundy is a high plateau surrounded by cliffs. This walk is a clockwise circumnavigation of the plateau. After visiting the small village at the top of the track for refreshments or supplies, walk past St Helena's Church and west to the cliffs of South West Point, and then turn north towards Goat Island. The cliffs are a bit on the crumbly side and anyone walking there should give the edge a respectful foot or two. This is where we saw our first black rabbit - a breed indigenous to Lundy but at present threatened by the dreaded myxomatosis – we say dozens of little bodies on our way around the isle. Walking north past Old Light on Beacon Hill, we cross Ackland's Moor which boasts the unlikely remains of a nine hole golf course as well as what is supposed to be – or have been - an airstrip. Earthquake is the strange name of the next corner of island, which we find after crossing the Quarter Wall. Lundy is divided into four by the three great walls placed at quarter intervals that cross from one side of the island to the other. At Earthquake there are chasms that you can't see the bottom of – and they leave you with the unnerving impression that whatever tore the granite asunder around here must have had plenty of points on the Richter Scale. Apparently the fissures were caused by the Lisbon earthquake of 1755. Earthquake is a good place from which to view the sea-bird colonies that cling to the cliffs around Jenny's Cove. The name Lundy is Norse for Puffin Island, so it's a good job there are some of these hilarious birds left. There are still a few breeding pairs and so comic are their antics that you can watch them for hours. Walking around the steep slopes close to their burrows, the puffins look like pompous fellows off to some posh, old-fashioned London club. But then, suddenly, they hurl themselves off the cliff only to survive by flapping their stumpy wings like pistons. Their landings are just as alarming as they hurtle cliff-wards with only a last second application of air brakes and a downing of undercarriage to save them from oblivion. This will take you down the east side of the island, past the historic quarries and through the rhododendron jungle where you might see a Sika deer or two. Eventually a steep path will take you back up to Lundy’s small settlement where you can enjoy a well earned pint at the Marisco Tavern. Basic walk if you want to stroll around the isle… Recommended map: not really necessary, but you could take Ordnance Survey’s Explorer 139. Circumnavigation - Distance and going: about seven miles, easy going. Food and drink: there’s a shop on Lundy as well as the excellent Marisco Tavern.

I've been visiting Lundy for more than 20 years, both as a journalist and simply because I love the place. This was the first report I ever filed from the island... Lundy Island Walk – At a Glance Location: Bristol Channel, off the North Devon coast Island: Around 3 miles long and ½ mile wide Character: Rugged granite island, cliffs and open countryside Best for: Walking, wildlife, seabirds, seals and spectacular views Highlights: Old Light, Jenny's Cove, Earthquake, North End and Gannets' Rock Food: Marisco Tavern Difficulty: Moderate to strenuous depending on route and conditions Dogs: Check current restrictions before travelling When it comes to watching sunsets nothing - anywhere - beats the lantern plate in the glass crown of Old Light perched 100 feet above the granite crags of Lundy Island. You can see the flickering beams of 21 other lighthouses around the Atlantic Approaches, you can see the coasts of Wales, Somerset, Devon and Cornwall. This is the most extraordinary room-with-a-view in England. Except, of course, it isn't England; it's Lundy and here, on Devonshire's answer to the Outer Hebrides, anything and everything is just that little bit different. Walking Around Lundy Island Most people who travel out to Lundy attempt the circumnavigation of this three mile long, half-mile wide, lump of rock located where the tide races of the Bristol Channel meet the Atlantic. The first thing all visitors to Lundy must do after disembarking from the ship, is climb the steep track from the new landing jetty. Basically, Lundy is a high plateau surrounded by cliffs. This walk is a clockwise circumnavigation of the plateau. South West Point and Goat Island After visiting the small village at the top of the track for refreshments or supplies, walk past St Helena's Church and west to the cliffs of South West Point, and then turn north towards Goat Island. The cliffs are a bit on the crumbly side and anyone walking there should give the edge a respectful foot or two. This is where we saw our first black rabbit - a breed indigenous to Lundy but at present threatened by the dreaded myxomatosis – we say dozens of little bodies on our way around the isle. I've written more about my many visits to Lundy Island here... Old Light, Ackland's Moor and the Golf Course Walking north past Old Light on Beacon Hill, we cross Ackland's Moor which boasts the unlikely remains of a nine hole golf course as well as what is supposed to be – or have been - an airstrip. Earthquake and Jenny's Cove Earthquake is the strange name of the next corner of island, which we find after crossing the Quarter Wall. Lundy is divided into four by the three great walls placed at quarter intervals that cross from one side of the island to the other. Rock stacks near the Earthquake area of Lundy Island At Earthquake there are chasms that you can't see the bottom of – and they leave you with the unnerving impression that whatever tore the granite asunder around here must have had plenty of points on the Richter Scale. Apparently the fissures were caused by the Lisbon earthquake of 1755. Earthquake is a good place from which to view the sea-bird colonies that cling to the cliffs around Jenny's Cove. Walkers on Lundy's high cllifftops Puffins on Lundy Island The name Lundy is Norse for Puffin Island, so it's a good job there are some of these hilarious birds left. In recent years their numbers have dropped alarmingly and no-one is quite sure why, but there still a few breeding pairs and so comic are their antics that you can watch them for hours. Lundy is famous for its puffins, although sightings aren't guaranteed. The birds return to breed seasonally, while the island's cliffs also support other seabirds including guillemots and razorbills. Walking around the steep slopes close to their burrows, the puffins look like pompous fellows off to some posh, old-fashioned London club. But then, suddenly, they hurl themselves off the cliff only to survive by flapping their stumpy wings like pistons. Their landings are just as alarming as they hurtle cliff-wards with only a last second application of air brakes and a downing of undercarriage to save them from oblivion. Now we marched past Halfway Wall and Threequarter Wall, to the quiet wilderness of North End. On the way you may pass some of the island’s goats and see the wild Soay sheep which are Lundy's answer to antelope. Their rapidity is no doubt aided by the remarkable spring-like quality of the turf which makes the island a delightful place in which to walk. North End, Gannets' Rock and Lundy's Wildlife Rounding North End we begin our journey down the eastern side of the island. Soon we come to Gannets' Rock where you can, if you’re lucky, watch seals as they loll in the sun. Occasionally one will roll lazily into the sea and shoot off like a torpedo through the clear water, somehow belying its beached appearance of so much docile blubber. Then it is south again, past the remains of the old gun battery called Brazen Ward. Once across Threequarter Wall, you can chose either to walk directly south along the island’s central track, or take the more interesting coast path. This will take you down the east side of the island, past the historic quarries and through the rhododendron jungle where you might see a Sika deer or two. Eventually a steep path will take you back up to Lundy’s small settlement where you can enjoy a well earned pint at the Marisco Tavern. I’ll put some more Lundy posts up - but in the meantime here is my old friend, island general manager Derek Green, raising the Lundy flag. What Makes Lundy Island Such a Special Walk? Lundy is only a few miles long, but walking across this extraordinary granite island feels like stepping into another world. There are no cars, few modern distractions and, wherever you look, the Atlantic is never far away. The walk takes you through a remarkable mixture of landscapes – rugged cliffs, open moorland, old quarries, ancient buildings and narrow tracks – while the wildlife is just as memorable. Puffins and other seabirds occupy the cliffs, grey seals can be seen around the coast, while Lundy's famous goats and Soay sheep roam freely across the island. Then there are the historic landmarks: the old lighthouse, Marisco Castle and the curious remains of Lundy's past. Add the sense of isolation, the extraordinary sea views and the chance to finish your walk at the Marisco Tavern, and Lundy becomes much more than simply a good day's walking. It is an adventure in miniature, just off the North Devon coast. Frequently Asked Questions About Lundy Island Is Lundy Island good for walking? Yes. Walking is one of the best ways to experience Lundy, with footpaths crossing the island and routes taking in cliffs, historic sites, wildlife and spectacular sea views. The terrain can be uneven and some sections are steep, so suitable footwear is advisable. How long does it take to walk around Lundy Island? It depends on the route and how much time you spend looking at wildlife and landmarks. The National Trust's current circular wildlife walk is around 4 miles and takes about two hours, while longer routes around more of the island can take considerably longer. Can you see puffins on Lundy Island? Yes, although sightings aren't guaranteed. Puffins are one of Lundy's most famous inhabitants and return to the island to breed. The cliffs around Jenny's Cove are among the places where visitors may see them. What other wildlife can you see on Lundy Island? Lundy is home to a remarkable range of wildlife, including grey seals, goats, sika deer and numerous seabirds. Its surrounding waters are also rich in marine life. What are the main things to see on Lundy Island? Highlights include Old Light, Jenny's Cove, Earthquake, North End, the historic settlement, Marisco Castle and the island's spectacular cliffs and wildlife. Where can you eat on Lundy Island? The Marisco Tavern is the island's pub and an important stopping point for visitors. The National Trust also identifies it as the traditional pub serving informal food. How do you get to Lundy Island? Lundy is reached by boat from the North Devon coast, with services associated with Ilfracombe and Bideford. Because travel arrangements and operating dates can change, visitors should check the official Lundy information before travelling.

It’s the season for BBQs if you’re lucky enough to have a garden or even a terrace. The act of cooking over flames used to simply be known as barbecuing, but we’ve come a long, long way since the times when optimistic non-culinary males would burn sad looking sausages on a grill. Check out our post on proper charcoal here The Primal Appeal of Live Fire and Smoke Wood-fired cookery has come of age, as I’ve been writing on a regular basis over the past couple of years. Now owning a wood-fired oven has become so desirable, retailers are reporting a year-on-year rise in sales of 300%. This is not surprising, because a good wood-fired oven is far more controllable and adaptable than a basic old-fashioned barbecue grill, and is capable of cooking things in all manner of delicious ways. I was reminded of this when the publisher Quadrille sent me its latest offering this week - The Ultimate Wood Fired Oven Cookbook is written by a Bristol-based cook who really does know her way around the flames. Genevieve Taylor encourages readers to “throw off the shackles of technology…. embrace a bit of culinary adventure and get back to basics with that most primal of elements, fire.” She does however warn in the very first line of the book: “Cooking with wood is addictive…” And I can vouch for that. “The sense of achievement you feel from striking a single match and mastering a fire in which you can cook a multitude of dishes is, quite simply, amazing,” writes Genevieve. “If there is one thing I want to shout from the rooftops it is that the oven you bought to make perfect wood-fired pizza will also make a million and one other things just as brilliantly. “The breadth of dishes you can get out of a wood-fired oven is almost limitless - you can roast, grill, barbecue and smoke in it, as well as use it as a hob and a giant slow-cooker.” Genevieve has created recipes such as slow-roast lamb shoulder with fennel and garlic, wood-roast ratatouille (a delicious way to use up leftover vegetables), a newspaper-baked salmon with winter-spiced onion and pine nut stuffing and a whole chilli roast pineapple with whipped coconut cream… “for that extra wow factor as the top crackles away in the flames”. The book even has recipes for a wood-fired cream tea, buttery nectarine, raspberry and almond upside-down cake and dishes that cook overnight whilst you sleep. “There is tremendous satisfaction from knowing you are squeezing every drop of energy out of your fire,” writes the fiery cook from Bristol. Another West Country woman who’d agree with all this is Alyson Murray, whose Wellington-based company Hot Smoked specialises in selling anything and everything to do with cooking out-of-doors. For several years I’ve used my fabulous Morso wood-fired oven but now Alyson sells a couple of alternatives… “The Uuni3 (£199) is a totally portable wood-fired oven which eliminates the bulk and expense of traditional ovens, but can turn out pizzas and any other wood-fired recipes just as efficiently,” she told me. “It reaches temperatures of up to 500 deg C in just 10 minutes and runs on energy dense compressed beech pellets which not only provide the heat source but the all-important wood cooked flavour. “And there’s the Delivita – a highly functional wood-fired oven combining a traditional clay interior with a sleek fibreglass exterior in a range of subtle colours. There are many wood fired ovens on the market but we were particularly attracted to this one because it is made in Yorkshire by a second-generation Italian family, so has excellent credentials… See our post on using a wok in a BBQ here Choosing the Right Fuel: Hardwoods vs. Softwoods “It is fuelled by seasoned logs for both heat and flavour and will reach 500 deg C within 25 to 30 minutes. Weighing just 30kg, the Delivita could either occupy a permanent slot in your back garden or is fully portable. Despite its £1200 price tag it compares favourably with other pizza ovens. We think this is the outdoor oven to invest in for wood fired pizza, breads, meat, fish and vegetable dishes.” In my highly adaptable and much-used Morso I use bits and pieces of fallen deciduous wood I pick up on my local dog walks, but the other day the Oxford Charcoal company sent me a big box of its product out of the blue - and I have to say it can provide an excellent hot bed for more accurate grilling or slow cooking. There are, of course, many small charcoal companies located here in the South West, and I’d always advise seeking out their goods rather than buying something cheap and not-so-cheerful from the supermarket. I cannot exaggerate the difference good charcoal can make. Whether you are cooking with wood or with charcoal, happy al-fresco dining this Bank Holiday weekend - and here’s one of Genevieve Taylor’s recipes to give you a little inspiration… The Ultimate Wood Fired Oven Cookbook by Genevieve Taylor is published by Quadrille at £15. RECIPE Genevieve Taylor’s MOROCCAN SLOW-BAKED LAMB TANGIA A tangia (not to be confused with a tagine, which is more stew-like) is a classic Moroccan dish from Marrakech. The tangia is the name of the vessel this slow-braised dish is cooked in – an earthenware vase really, with a narrow neck, which I don’t have, so I use an old earthenware casserole dish which works just fine. A deep rather than shallow shape is preferable, 150–160°C (300–325°F) SERVES 2 – EASY TO DOUBLE OR TREBLE THE RECIPE FOR MORE a good pinch of saffron threads 300g (10½oz) boned lamb leg, diced into 4cm (1½in) pieces 1 onion, very finely chopped 3 cloves of garlic, chopped ½ a preserved lemon, skin finely chopped 1 tbsp cumin seeds 1 tsp white peppercorns, freshly ground 1 tsp ground turmeric ½ tsp ground ginger a good pinch of salt 2 tbsp olive oil 1 x 400g (14oz) tin of chickpeas (garbanzo beans), drained and rinsed a little chopped fresh coriander (cilantro), to serve You need a cooling oven at a temperature of around 150°C (300°F) for this recipe. If it is a little hotter than that, raise the baking dish off the oven floor by placing it on a cooling rack. Put the saffron threads into a heatproof measuring jug and pour in 200ml (¾ cup) of boiling water. Set aside to soak for a few minutes while you assemble the tangia. Put the meat, onion, garlic and preserved lemon into an earthenware braising dish and sprinkle over the cumin seeds, peppercorns, turmeric, ginger and a little salt. Drizzle with the oil, then, using either clean hands or a metal spoon, stir together really well so the meat is evenly coated. Scatter over the chickpeas, then pour in the saffron and its soaking water. Tear off a piece of baking paper and run it under the cold tap, scrunching it up and unfolding it again so you have a damp sheet. Lay it over the dish, pressing it firmly down to compact the spiced meat and chickpeas. Tuck the edges in well, then do the same with a sheet of tin foil to seal the food in so that minimal liquid escapes. Top with a lid. Set aside until you are ready to cook. If you’re doing this in a wood fired oven, once you have finished cooking for the day and your oven has developed an even heat through the floor and dome, and has cooled to about 150°C (300°F), you can slide the dish in, shut the door and forget about it overnight. To serve, reheat until piping hot, then scatter over the coriander. A dish of buttery couscous would be the perfect accompaniment. Mastering Heat Control in Open-Air Cooking Wood-Fired Cooking: The Essentials & FAQ (2026) What is the difference between cooking with charcoal and wood? While high-quality lumpwood charcoal provides an excellent, steady base of radiant heat, cooking directly with hardwood logs introduces unfiltered wood smoke. This smoke contains natural compounds that deposit directly onto the food, creating that distinctive, deep, rustic flavor profile that charcoal alone cannot match. What are the best woods to use for cooking? You should only use seasoned, dry hardwoods. Hardwoods burn hotter and longer, providing clean smoke. Top Choices: Oak, ash, beech, and birch are exceptional all-rounders for the West Country. Fruitwoods like apple or cherry add a beautiful, sweet fragrance to pork, poultry, and vegetables. What to Avoid: Never use softwoods (like pine, fir, or spruce). They contain high amounts of resin and sap, which burn quickly, produce acrid black smoke, and leave a bitter, chemical taste on your food. How do you control the temperature without a dial? In wood-fired cooking, your temperature control is determined by wood management and oxygen flow: Direct Flame vs. Coals: For high-heat searing or flash-baking (like neapolitan pizzas), you want active, licking flames. For slow roasting or grilling meat, you must wait for the logs to break down into a glowing bed of white-hot embers. Airflow: If using a closed wood-fired oven or BBQ smoker, opening the vents draws in more oxygen, causing the fire to burn hotter and faster. Closing the vents dampens the flames, lowering the heat. Can I use freshly cut wood from the garden? No. Freshly cut wood (known as "green wood") contains up to 50% water. If you try to cook with it, the fire's energy will be wasted boiling off the moisture, resulting in a sputtering, low-temperature fire and a massive cloud of bitter, thick white smoke. Wood should be split and seasoned (dried) for at least 12 to 24 months until its moisture content drops below 20%.

When most people picture Malaysian Borneo, they imagine dense inland jungles, mist-shrouded mountain peaks, and deep river valleys. Yet the wild coastline of Sarawak—where ancient primary rainforest crashes directly into the South China Sea—offers one of the most diverse and thrilling coastal landscapes in South East Asia. Stretching from the mangrove-choked estuaries around the Santubong Peninsula to the dramatic sandstone headlands of Bako National Park, this coastal fringe is a haven for rare wildlife. Here, elusive Irrawaddy dolphins pop up in silty river mouths, endangered proboscis monkeys swing through mangrove canopies above the tide, and sea stacks carved by millennia of wave action guard hidden, golden coves. Here is my journey along the wild, watery edge of South-West Sarawak... Coastal Highlights & Wildlife Overview Box Place this practical overview box near the top to give readers and search engines an instant snapshot of the destination: Location: South-West Coast of Sarawak, Malaysian Borneo (accessible from Kuching). Key Coastal Reserves: Bako National Park, Kuching Wetlands National Park, Santubong Peninsula. Signature Wildlife: Rare Irrawaddy dolphins, proboscis monkeys, saltwater crocodiles, mudskippers, and oriental pied hornbills. Best Time to Visit: April to September (dry season with calm seas for boat transfers). Access: Local wooden boat transfers from Kampung Bako or river cruise launches from Kuching estuaries. It was incredibly hot and humid, but I loved the easy sensuous fragrance of Sarawak. However, I didn’t jump into the sea once - it was cram full of jelly-fish. Frequently Asked Questions Paste this at the bottom of your post to capture search traffic planning a coastal trip to Borneo: Frequently Asked Questions: Visiting the Sarawak Coast How do you reach Bako National Park on the Sarawak coast? Bako National Park is only accessible by water. Visitors take a 45-minute drive from Kuching to Kampung Bako, followed by a scenic 20-minute ride on a local wooden boat across the estuary to the park headquarters at Telok Assam. Where can you spot Irrawaddy dolphins in Sarawak? Irrawaddy dolphins are frequently spotted in the shallow, mangrove-rich coastal estuaries around Kuching Wetlands National Park and the mouth of the Santubong River, roughly 30 kilometers north of Kuching city. What makes the coastal landscape of Sarawak unique? The Sarawak coast features a rare combination of ecosystems: extensive mangrove swamps, peat swamp forests, and dramatic sandstone cliffs with secluded beaches. It is one of the few places where you can observe wild proboscis monkeys right along the sea edge. What is the best time of year for coastal boat trips in Sarawak? The best period is between April and September during the dry season, when sea conditions are calm and boat operators can easily navigate the estuaries and coastal headlands around Bako and Santubong. "Exploring more of Malaysian Borneo? Read my feature on the Rainforest World Music Festival in Sarawak, or check out my complete South East Asia travel archive."

Today is reckoned to be the hottest of the year so far in the UK. It is bloomin’ scorchio… And I won’t be able to sit up here in my office for much longer because it is getting so hot it’s like being in that torture hut in the Bridge Over the River Kwai movie. So in yesterday’s heat I took my GoPro camera with me and shot a few scenes from deep, cool, leafy lanes where slight breezes and zephyrs were just enough to wipe the sweat from my brow. And here’s a surprising and little known fact - there are no fewer than seven million trees in the county of Devon alone. If that seems a large number you may be even more surprised to hear that these are only the free-standing trees - not the ones growing in woodlands or forests. The great majority of the seven million are to be found in hedgerows. Added to that around two million of them are ash trees… Devon has more hedgerows than any other county, with an astounding 33,000 miles of “mini-nature reserves” lining its lanes and fields. More than 600 plant species, 1,500 types of insects, 65 birds and 20 different mammals have been recorded living or feeding in the county’s hedgerows, and they are now regarded as long thin nature reserves. But Devon didn’t always have such pride in its hedges - records from the 1950’s show county used to have a staggering 45,000 miles of hedges, meaning that 12,000 miles – more than the distance from London to Sydney – have disappeared. So much for the facts and figures. Now I’m going to put up the short video I made and escape to somewhere like The Cutting just up the valley from me - a place that is always cool for some reason, even in the fiercest heatwave.

Last weekend we had folk around for a barbecue and a couple of them commented on the amazing flavour of the pork. It came from a good local butcher, but wasn’t anything fabulous like some rare breed which had been massaged in Japanese beer or marinaded in exotic spices. The difference was that the shoulder joint had been spinning for a few hours on a Kamado Joe rotisserie, over a bed of top quality locally sourced charcoal. The best charcoal I’ve ever come across, actually - which I believe is what helped that pork achieve its fantastic flavour. Charcoal burner Chris Silverwood tending his kiln in a Somerset woodland It seems reasonable to assume that we humans are hard-wired to like the flavour of food cooked over wood or charcoal, because we were doing it for almost a million years before anyone invented an electric or gas oven. Archaeologists have found evidence of what they believe to be one of the first examples of hominids cooking with fire, and the site in Isreal dates back 800,000 years. That’s a long time for the species to have evolved a universal liking for that curious mixture of sweet and highly savoury which cooking over a live flame can impart. Take something plain and simple - my pork shoulder, say, or corn on the cob, or chicken thighs - and cook one sample under an electric grill and another over charcoal… The difference in flavour will be profound. I was boring my guests with all this last Sunday when I suddenly realised I was running low on the essential ingredient - there’s plenty of warm summer weather left to go - so I called my charcoal-burner pal who invited me to visit the forested glade where he makes the good stuff. Into the Woods: Meeting Chris Silverwood of Fat Raven Charcoal You might not expect to discover that one of the West Country’s most dedicated traditional woodsmen hails from the sprawl of South London, but in this quiet, lonely pocket of local woodland, Chris Silverwood quietly practises an ancient craft which our ancestors would recognise in an instant. His journey into the old ways didn’t begin through family lineage, but in a local library where he stumbled upon classic texts on green woodworking and coppicing. Inspired by the methods of old Buckinghamshire chair bodgers, he built a pole-lathe in his back garden before heading to Sussex’s Weald and Downland Living Museum in his mid-20s. There, under the watchful eye of old hands who knew the woods inside out, he served an informal apprenticeship, mastering everything from spar-making (a wooden form of staple used by thatchers) to the unpredictable art of charcoal burning. Today, Chris channels that hard-won knowledge into his own venture, Fat Raven Charcoal - a name inspired by a vivid dream and inspired by the ravens that croak from the woodland canopy above his kilns. Managing local mixed woodlands through sustainable winter coppicing, he fells, logs, and burns birch, oak, and sweet chestnut, turning raw West Country timber into gleaming, chemical-free carbon. Charcoal burner Chris Silverwood in the coppiced woodland he manages It is undoubtedly relentless, back-aching graft that requires an instinctive understanding of heat, airflow, and timber, but the result is a world away from the accelerant-soaked briquettes sold on supermarket forecourts. In Chris’s hands, an ancient forestry tradition lives on, providing local kitchens and barbecues with the pure, resonant fuel it was always meant to have. “It’s all hard work,” Chris told me. “You’re handling wood countless times - cutting it down, logging it, stacking it, pulling it out of the woods, loading it into the kiln - doing your burn, unloading it, and bagging it up. “We fell the wood and stack the brush over the stools so the deer can’t get at the new growth. It all regenerates. A lot of these stools have grown 10 or 12 feet since winter. In 20 or 25 years, someone will come back through and harvest the same coppice again.” See other BBQ features on this website - such as this one about using a kamado oven The Hidden Cost of Supermarket Charcoal His sylvan world of hard labour is mirrored by the complete opposite - i.e. cheap imported briquettes or charcoal often imported from abroad and sold in supermarkets… “A lot of imported supermarket charcoal is filled with oil-based accelerants to make it light, and you can taste that on the food,” he shrugged. “Support your local charcoal burner - it’s sustainable, it hasn’t travelled across the world, and there are no chemicals in it.” Here’s something to take into the equation… Most lidded BBQs like my Kamado Joe are capable of totally extinguishing the fire, if you clamp down the lid and shut the draught controls. Do that with cheap charcoal, and you’ll find nothing but ash left the next morning, but perform the shutdown with large lumps of charcoal like the stuff Chris makes, and there’ll be plenty left for the next cooking session. Given that capability, I’d say using his stuff - with all the environmentally-friendly advantages that go with it, plus the flavour bonus - actually works out slightly cheaper. “Cooking over fire is primeval,” says Chris. “We’ve cooked around fires for hundreds of thousands of years. It’s a communal thing - sitting around the embers, having a beer, chatting, and eating real food over a live flame. You get that with locally sourced charcoal - and you get a fantastic, living, managed, woodland like the one we’re standing in now.” Finished charcoal in Chris's kiln Masterclass: Cooking with Top Quality Charcoal Whenever I write about anything to do with cooking over a live flame I contact my old pal Marcus Bawdon for his thoughts, and for a recipe. As many readers will know, Marcus is regarded as one of the nation’s top experts when it comes to the concept of cooking outdoors - he runs the now famous and much-celebrated UK BBQ School just outside Cullompton. Here’s what Marcus had to say when I told him I was writing about local charcoal… “When most people barbecue, they see the fuel they use - such as charcoal - just as a fuel only. But things change when you start to think of it as an ingredient - a quality charcoal makes all the difference - it gives a lovely clean heat without being laced with chemicals or fillers. “Here’s one of my favourite things to do if you have some good locally sourced charcoal…” See another post on this website about Marcus Bawdon's BBQ tips Marcus Bawdon’s Coffee, Rum and Maple Glazed Pork Chops “A good pork chop is a wonderful thing, but not easy to get right, you need the correct sort of heat to ensure a good sear and crispy crackling,” says Marcus. “I love to cook pork chops over wood embers, and have a searing hot side with a few flames which I add new wood to, and a bed of embers on the other side. “I used an Argentine style fire-pit grill. You’re looking to use a good high heat output wood such as the ash I used, also good are silver birch and beech. Build your fire using the Jenga method of stacking 3-4 inch diameter splits and light using a natural fire-lighter. “Allow to burn down adding new wood of the same size as needed. Set up your fire-pit or grill for direct cooking about 6-8 inches above the embers. The heat at grill level should be hot enough that you can only hold your hand (carefully) at the grill level for 2 to 3 seconds. Coarse Sea Salt and coarse ground black pepper 1 shot espresso 1 measure rum 2 tbsp maple syrup Go for 1.5-2” thick pork chops one per person. Cut the rind to every couple of inches to stop the chops curling up as the crackling forms, and season with plenty of coarse sea salt and black pepper. Place the chops on the grill, hold a chop skin side down over the hottest part of the grill with some tongs until you get crispy crackling bubbling up. Do this for all your chops, then lay chops flat and sear both sides, moving from hotter to cooler parts of the grill to not burn them. Make up a glaze with a shot of espresso, a measure of good rum, and a couple of tbsp maple syrup, mix together and glaze the chops using a pastry brush once they are seared. Build up a nice glaze by brushing the glaze on a few times, you’re aiming to take the chops off when they reach 63c internal temperature to ensure they remain juicy. This will probably be around 15 minutes total cooking time. Allow to rest for a few minutes and enjoy. UK BBQ School runs classes year round in its all weather facility, corporate events and team enquiries are welcome, visit www.ukbbqschool.com The outdoor cooking expert - Marcus Bawdon of Devon's UK BBQ School Heritage: A Quick Note on West Country Charcoal Burning In a report he wrote more than 50 years ago my late father described how Exmoor’s charcoal-burning industry had seen the revival during the First World War. “Little pockets of the old-time industry were re-established all over the country and there was one in the wood behind the rock in at Bridgetown and another at Tarr Steps,” wrote my father. “The landlord of the Rock Inn had six or seven men working with him. The traditional method of operation was to drive a tall, stout stake into the ground, surround it with wood in four-foot lengths, and bank up the whole with earth. “The fire had to be maintained day and night until the end product of charcoal was reached. Then the crisp, black chunks were taken by horse and waggon for dispatch to the fighting front.” Not that the troops were cooking on charcoal - it was, of course, used in the making of gunpowder. “Thanks to the manpower available at Bridgetown, the charcoal burners’ vigil was doubtless performed in relays, but further back in time it was an occupation that often meant a hermit-like existence in the woods for a solitary charcoal-burner. “We cannot say that without picturing an 18th-century scene in the Quantocks -William Walford, the Over Stowey charcoal-burner, out on the hills for days and nights on end, guarding his fire. And, in his loneliness, finding a tragedy stalking him in the form of that half-wild girl with whom he consorted in the charcoal-burner’s hut - and, having gotten her with child, he felt obliged to marry. “And whom, in the despair and frustration of a miserable wedlock, he was soon to kill and leave in a Quantock ditch. Then, for Walford, these swinging end on the creaking gibbet on the hill.” Frequently Asked Questions Why is locally produced lumpwood charcoal better than supermarket briquettes? Locally produced British charcoal contains no artificial binders, chemical fillers, or oil-based accelerants. It burns cleaner, lights faster, and imparts a natural, pure wood flavour rather than chemical taint to your food. Can you reuse lumpwood charcoal in a barbecue? Yes. In airtight barbecues such as a Kamado Joe or similar lidded grills, shutting the vents cuts off oxygen and extinguishes the embers. High-density British lumpwood charcoal remains intact and can be relit for your next cook, reducing waste and cost. How does traditional coppicing help woodland conservation? Coppicing involves harvesting trees near ground level on a rotational cycle (typically 15–25 years). This practice allows light to reach the forest floor, promotes biodiversity, stimulates rapid new shoot growth, and provides sustainable timber without destroying the woodland ecosystem. What internal temperature should pork chops reach when grilling? Marcus Bawdon recommends cooking thick-cut pork chops to an internal temperature of 63°C (145°F) before resting. This keeps the meat juicy and tender while ensuring it is safely cooked throughout.

Portheras Cove., West Cornwall If you want to understand the true spirit of Cornwall, you have to get out onto the narrow, windswept clifftops where the granite plunges into the Atlantic and the sea-caves yawn black beneath your boots. For centuries, these lonely rocky shores and serpentine inlets were the playground of "free-traders," fishermen, wreckers, and adventurous souls slipping beneath the radar of the revenue men. Here are five of my favourite coastal hikes across West Penwith, the North Coast, and the Lizard—each one short enough to enjoy in an afternoon, but wild enough to blow away the cobwebs and plunge you headlong into classic Cornish smuggler territory. The coast at Zennor from the air 1. Zennor Head: Mermaids, Granite Cliffs and Kernewek Lore Perched on the high, shaggy coastal edge halfway between St Ives and St Just, Zennor feels like the very edge of the world. D.H. Lawrence fell entirely in love with the place, marvelling at the "infinite Atlantic, all peacock-mingled colours." It is also the home of the legendary Mermaid of Pendour Cove, who lured the golden-voiced choirboy Matthew Trewhella down into the deep waves. This short, bracing figure-of-eight or lasso stroll takes you from the lonesome granite village out to the dramatic prow of Zennor Head, skirting the dizzy cliffs above Pendour before returning via the sheltered inland paths. See a full account of a walk at Zennor here The granite rocks at Zennor Head Distance & Going: 2 miles; easy to moderate with rocky footpaths. Map: OS Explorer 102 (Land’s End). The Route: Park in Zennor village. Take the lane between the church and The Tinners Arms heading north-west towards the coast. Bear left towards the South West Coast Path to reach the headland, circle around the point taking in the vast sweep towards Porthzennor Cove, and pick up the return path through the bracken across the base of the headland back to the village lane. Pub & Refreshments: The Tinners Arms, Zennor – A legendary 13th-century granite pub with low beams, roaring log fires, real ales, and proper hearty pub grub. The Tinners' Arms, Zennor 2. Portheras Cove: Secret Sands & The Lighthouse Keepers Portheras is a jewel among coves—a near-perfect golden beach hidden between Pendeen and Morvah. It remains one of the region's best-kept secrets simply because it demands a proper walk to reach it. Starting from the stark, white outpost of Pendeen Watch Lighthouse—where former keepers once stood long night watches over the treacherous offshore reefs—this hike winds along the rugged mining clifftops before dropping down to the tranquil sands of Portheras. The return takes you gently inland past weathered granite farmsteads. Portheras Cove Distance & Going: 2.5 miles; easy going along cliff paths and farm lanes (approx. 45–60 minutes). Map: OS Explorer 102 (Land’s End). The Route: Start at Pendeen Watch car park. Take the coast path east over Pendeen Cliff towards the old fishermen’s huts. Follow the path up over Portheras Cliff to the beach. To return, head up the lush valley behind the cove, take the zig-zag path up the right-hand slope to Portheras Farm, cross the small fields south-west to Calartha Farm, and walk the quiet tarmac lane back to the lighthouse. Pub & Refreshments: The North Inn, Pendeen – A welcoming, unpretentious village pub renowned for traditional local ales, Cornish pasties, and Sunday roasts. Read more about Portheras Cove and other fantastic local beaches here The lighthouse at Pendeen Watch, 3. Porthgwarra & Gwennap Head: Tunnels, Spume and Swashbuckle Gwennap Head is everything Land’s End ought to be: untamed, authentic, and utterly windswept. Down in the hollow lies Porthgwarra, a tiny slipway cove straight out of a smuggling yarn. A hand-hewn tunnel pierces straight through the solid cliff to the shore, built for bringing up seaweed and gear, but evoking pure swashbuckle. The cove at Porthgwarra This magnificent circular route begins at the valley car park below the cliff-carved Minack Theatre, climbs out past the old cable station of Porthcurno, sweeps past Gwennap Head’s lookout, skirts the boiling seas of Nanjizal Bay, and returns through peaceful inland cauliflower fields. Distance & Going: 7 miles; moderate coastal hiking with steep steps and uneven cliff paths. Map: OS Explorer 102 (Land’s End). It's not really a smuggler tunnel at Porthgwarra The Route: Start at Porthcurno car park. Follow the Coast Path past the beach and up the cliff steps towards the Minack. Continue west along the high cliffs past Porthgwarra to the coastguard lookout on Gwennap Head. Follow the trail north-west above the sea caves of Nanjizal, then cut inland via Higher Bosistow and Arden-Sawah Farm, following rights-of-way past St Levan Church back to Porthcurno. Pub & Refreshments: Minack Theatre Café (stunning cliff-hung views) or The Porthcurno Beach Café (light lunches and cream teas). For a pint on the way back, head to The Logan Rock Inn in nearby Treen. See more about Porthgwarra by clicking here Logan Rock Inn at Treen 4. Godrevy Point & The Knavocks: Wrecks, Reefs and Smugglers Cove At the northern entrance to St Ives Bay lies Godrevy Point, looking out towards the lonely white hexagonal lighthouse perched on its island. These waters hide "The Stones"—a notoriously deadly reef that claimed dozens of ships, including the ill-fated steamer Nile in 1854. Godrevy Llighthouse on its island This breezy, exhilarating walk starts by the dunes of Gwithian Towans, passes the mouth of the tin-tinted Red River, rounds the high headland where seals often haul out in the gullies below, and traces the heather-strewn downs of The Knavocks above Smugglers Cove before looping back across the fields. Distance & Going: 2.5 miles; easy going along wide cliff trails and sandy paths. Map: OS Explorer 102 (Land’s End). The coast and little-visited coves between Godrevy and Portreath The Route: Park at the National Trust car park near Godrevy/Gwithian Bridge. Cross the boardwalks and follow the coastal path north past Magow Rocks to Godrevy Point. Round the point with views of the island, heading east past the tumulus across The Knavocks (above Smugglers Cove). Turn inland along the farm track towards Higher Pencobben, descending the gentle lane back to the car park. Pub & Refreshments: Godrevy Café – Tucked behind the dunes, serving excellent coffee, cakes, and hot lunches. For a proper pint, The Red River Inn in Gwithian village is just down the road. And the Barret Arms, Portreath. READ ABOUT THE BARRET ARMS AND PORTREATH HERE Portreath, home to the Basset Arms 5. Cadgwith & Poltesco: Serpentine Crafts, Light and Smugglers' Creeks Cadgwith is not so much a harbour as a breathtaking cleft in the Lizard rocks, where thatch-roofed cottages tumble down to a shingle cove crammed with brightly painted fishing boats, sea-worn crab pots, and ropes. It has an unmistakable air of timeless coastal life. The shaded path down to Poltesco Cove This circuit takes you up from the village to Ruan Minor, down into the lush, wooded depths of the Poltesco Valley to explore the ruined Victorian serpentine works at Carleon Cove, with an optional dip at sandy Kennack Sands before tracing the Coast Path back around Enys Head into Cadgwith. Distance & Going: 4 miles; easy to moderate walking along quiet country lanes and undulating coastal path. Map: OS Explorer 103 (The Lizard). Fishing boats at Cadgwith Cove The Route: Start in Cadgwith Cove. Walk inland up the lane to Ruan Minor, turning down the narrow lane by the church into the Poltesco Valley. Explore Carleon Cove and the old watermill ruins, then head north along the coast path over Thorny Cliff to Kennack Sands (if you fancy a swim). Retrace your steps back to Carleon Cove and follow the South West Coast Path south round Polbream Point, Enys Head, and Kildown Point back into Cadgwith. Pub & Refreshments: The Cadgwith Cove Inn – A genuine, 300-year-old traditional fishermen's pub renowned for fresh local crab, local ales, and spontaneous sea-shanty singing. For tea and cakes, drop into The Old Cellar House by the beach. SEE MORE ABOUT THE HISTORIC CORNISH SERPENTINE INDUSTRY HERE The old serpentine works at Poltesco Cove Frequently Asked Questions Are these Cornish coastal walks dog-friendly? Yes, all five routes follow public rights of way and the South West Coast Path. However, dogs must be kept on leads near steep cliff edges, around free-roaming livestock on the downs (such as The Knavocks), and near working farmsteads. Most of the featured pubs—including The Tinners Arms and The Cadgwith Cove Inn—welcome well-behaved dogs. What footwear is needed for these smuggler walks? Sturdy walking boots or trail shoes with good grip are strongly recommended. While the distances are mostly between 2 and 4 miles (with Porthgwarra at 7 miles), the paths involve granite steps, uneven rocks, exposed tree roots, and occasional muddy sections inland. Which of these hikes is best for a quick circular walk? Zennor Head (2 miles) and Portheras Cove (2.5 miles) are ideal if you are short on time. Both can be completed in about an hour, delivering rugged cliff-edge drama and sweeping sea views without a major time commitment. Is there mobile phone reception along these remote coves? Mobile signal can be very patchy down in deep valleys and coves such as Portheras, Pendour, and Porthgwarra. It is wise to check your route details or download offline maps before setting out.