Beyond the Vegas Strip: Discovering Nevada’s Neon, Nature, and Ghost Towns
- Chris Page
- 9 hours ago
- 4 min read
"Viva" Las Vegas has never been short on spectacle but Sin City’s bright lights yield to similarly impressive desert drama once visitors steer away from the Strip.
Illuminations, Technicolored as Joseph's amazing dream-coat, soon surrender to lost mining communities, tan sandstone natural wonder and imposing man-made construct amid stark sun-scorched wilderness of endless dusty horizons.
“Neon to Nature” exploration completely captures contrasts, courtesy manageable excursions swapping showy slots for lots of scenic adventures.
Fremont Street & Historic Vegas Charm
Airport arrival seamlessly segues with old school accommodation El Cortez Hotel and Casino, intoxicating mix of neon, noise and nicotine firmly rooted in early years, cemented by History Hallway images illustrating - in partnership with Mob Museum - influence of Sinatra to Siegel.
Vintage charm abounds near frenetic Fremont Street, Glitter Gulch remaining visibly vibrant in architecture and atmosphere established before neighbourhood's defining image became nearby Strip, peppered with poker faces and photo shoot newlyweds, dressed sharper than native Paiute tribe arrowheads.
Eggs-ellent Broken Yolk Café hearty breakfast - benedicts to burritos as well as signature Mom omelet - sets perfect tone, serving portions matching itinerary ambitions, ideal fuel for heading straight to searing Mojave.
Goodsprings & The Historic Pioneer Saloon
Goodsprings ghost town swiftly appears as spectre of bygone boomtown, southern state stripped back to dry-boned best. Peel back gritty pages of time to 1911 when railroad arrival transformed Clark County community into thriving zinc and lead mining mecca.
Drink in Wild West past at landmark Pioneer Saloon, surviving Spanish Flu and two World Wars, not least Prohibition, throughout century serving visitors and locals including, during our stay, Hells Angels' Lone Mountain Chapter Dirty Ones.
Marvel at ornate tin roof, bullet-pocked walls and cherry wood bar, still bearing cigarette burns left by Hollywood heartthrob Clark Gable, who drank, smoked and paced deep into 1942 Nevada night while awaiting tragic news of wife Carole Lombard's death in nearby Mount Potosi air crash.
Red Rock Canyon & The Neon Museum
Sandy route, surrounded by amazing formations, leads to Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area, attracting million-plus annual visitors.
Roulette wheel-red iron oxide stained steep sharp peaks puncture cloud-scudded cobalt skies, undulating landscape best seen by saddling up on Escape Adventures' e-bike tour, turbo-charged trip taking strain out of cycling, delivering striking viewpoints various to fully appreciate area's scale and silence.
Vegas return sees Le Thai dinner, celebrating chef Dan Coughlin's famed three colour dish - flavoursome fusion of red, yellow and green curries - alongside noodle soup and waterfall sauce delicacies.
Ensure it's all light on the night by visiting nostalgic Neon Museum's Boneyard, hosting since 1996 more than 250 unrestored signs, illuminated with ground lighting, as well as 28 restored luminous lights, North Gallery boasting further 115 shining examples of artistic culture from the 1930s to present day.
Boulder City & The Wonders of Hoover Dam
Leaving Las Vegas (not Nic Cage's mid-nineties spicy drama!), suitably fortified by Baguette Café bountiful breakfast, sees parched highway lead to damn fine destination of Boulder City, established in 1930s to house Great Depression workers constructing Colorado River's colossal Hoover Dam.
Welcoming townsfolk are rightly proud of monumental Black Canyon feat of engineering, hydroelectric powerhouse straddling border with Arizona. USA's highest such construction, geometric Art Deco architecture awash with startling statistics, standing 726 feet tall, 1,244 feet long, containing 4.4 million cubic yards of concrete.
Small town big benefits await at El Rancho Boulder Motel, stop-over reminiscent (mercifully violence-free!) of Stateside cinematic classics from Hitchcock's definitive Psycho to Coen Brothers' cult No Country For Old Men, not least proximity to Boulder Dam Brewing Company, expertly pairing “Bigger, Bolder, Fresher” casual food and craft ale to toast truly laid-back locality.
Railroad Trails & Eldorado Canyon
Daily full of beans from The Coffee Cup Café, exploration continues apace along Historic Railroad Trail, 7.5 mile round trip featuring five cavernous tunnels carved into volcanic rock, affording panoramic vistas of Lake Mead, Boulder Basin and distant South Virgin Mountains, homeward-bound Hemenway Park big horn sheep offering added attraction.
Nevada State Railroad Museum completes rolling stock theme, showcasing region's industrial heritage, Bootleg Canyon Municipal Park Nature Discovery Trail mixes sculptures with sweeping views while downtown self-guided murals show true colours.
Last deep dive into Nevada nostalgia visits Techatticup, blistering Eldorado Canyon mining hot spot of yesteryear, today photogenic rugged reminder of Civil War deserters waging war to settle scores with grizzled gold-diggers in lawless uncivilised society, fuelled by soaring temperatures and tensions.
All hungry and thirsty work, sated by "homemade meets hometown" Southwest Diner dishes, extensive dinner menus also enjoyed at The Dillinger, gourmet burgers a-go-go home of Gauntlet food challenge, and fitting finale Fox Smokehouse BBQ, whose cooks consistently set competitive barbequing scene alight.
Glitzy Vegas sells itself as hedonistic distraction but greatest escape is break that also crosses city limits, back to nature unforgettable memories proving just as valuable as any Sands or Caesars Palace jackpot.
Fact File
Full info: travelnevada.com
El Cortez Hotel and Casino: rooms start from £60 per night
El Rancho Boulder Motel: rooms start from £68 per night
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ Section)
What are the best day trips to take near Las Vegas?
Popular day trips within an hour or two of the Las Vegas Strip include Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area for hiking and e-biking, Goodsprings ghost town and the historic Pioneer Saloon, Hoover Dam and Lake Mead in Boulder City, and the Techatticup gold mine in Eldorado Canyon.
What is the historic Pioneer Saloon in Goodsprings famous for?
Established in 1913, the Pioneer Saloon is one of Nevada’s oldest surviving bars. It features an ornate tin roof, bullet-pocked walls, and a original cherry wood bar complete with cigarette burns famously left by Hollywood legend Clark Gable while awaiting news of Carole Lombard in 1942.
How far is Boulder City and Hoover Dam from Las Vegas?
Boulder City and the colossal Hoover Dam are located approximately 30 miles (a 45-minute drive) southeast of the Las Vegas Strip, making them ideal for an easy day trip or overnight stopover.
