Exmoor Walks: Countisbury

If you had to choose just one coastal walk that boasted truly stunning views, then the lofty lope around altitudinous Countisbury would be up there at the top of the list. 

High above Lynmouth Bay there’s not much save for an excellent road-side pub and a tiny church that sits snug on Countisbury's shelf in the hills, but there are fabulous views.

Our hike takes from Lynmouth up to Countisbury by inland paths - you can then go out to the Foreland Lighthouse by whichever route you dare, and back up the paved road to Barna Barrow before returning via the Blue Ball Inn.

The first section takes you up the northern banks of the East Lyn River. As the stream curves around Wester Wood various paths strike upwards through the trees - any of these will take you to the top of Wind Hill.

At the summit there’s a hill-fort which plays host to a remarkable legend concerning some locals who were chased up here by Hubba, the marauding brother of Viking chief, Ivan-the-Boneless. The great Dane was killed and his much-feared Black Raven banner was seized by the fleeing men who felt they had nothing to lose by picking a suicidal fight.

Walking down the walled track from the fort we cross the main road to join the coast path where you are treated to magnificent vistas of Lynmouth Bay and beyond.

Now you have a choice. You can either make this a quick hike and call in at the Blue Ball Inn for lunch before walking down the coast path back to Lynmouth, or you can proceed east around Butter Hill before descending down to the Foreland Lighthouse. Be warned: the tiny coast path around the hill is a route for non-vertigo sufferers only.

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Frequently Asked Questions

Where is Countisbury located on Exmoor?

Countisbury is a small, elevated coastal hamlet situated on the North Devon edge of Exmoor National Park. Perched high on a hill crest just east of Lynton and Lynmouth, it sits right along the scenic route of the A39.

How long is the walk out to Foreland Point from Countisbury?

The circular hike from Countisbury out to the prominent headland of Foreland Point and back along the coastal slopes is approximately 3 to 4 miles. Due to steep gradient changes along the cliff paths, allow 2 to 2.5 hours to complete the loop safely.

Is Countisbury good for pub walks on Exmoor?

Yes. Countisbury is home to the historic 17th-century Blue Ball Inn, a traditional coaching inn located right on the South West Coast Path. It is a popular starting and finishing point for walks across Butter Hill and down into Lynmouth.

What historical events took place around Countisbury?

Countisbury Hill was the site of the ancient battle of Cynwit (878 AD), where Saxon forces defeated a Viking raiding party led by Ubba. The surrounding high ground features ancient earthworks and fort sites overlooking Lynmouth Bay.